The history of Wales, written originally in British

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THE

of Offitafe*.

WRITTEN ORIGINALLY IN BRITISH BY CARADOC OF LLANCARVAN;
TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH BY DR. POWELL;

AUGMENTED

/

BY W. WYNNE, FELLOW OF JESUS COLLEGE, OXON.;

REVISED AND CORRECTED, AND A COLLECTION OF

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES

ATTACHED THERETO,

I ' !

BY | RICHARD LLWYD, GENT.

OF LLANNERCH-BROCHWEL, IN THE COUNTY OF MONTGOMERY.

SHREWSBURY:

PRINTED BY JOHN EDDOWES, CORN-MAKKET.

MDCCCXXXII.

ADVERTISEMENT,

The late Mr. RICHARD LLWYD, when he revised Mr. WYNNE'S
History, and compiled the Topographical Notices which are now
appended thereto, had also an intention of entering at some length
into the Biography of Owen Glyndwr, and of giving a sketch of
the ancient Laws, Customs, and Amusements of Wales. The
publication, however, of Mr. Thomas's Life of Glyndwr, and the
appearance of several excellent essays, fyc. in the Cambro-Briton
and various periodical works on the other subjects alluded to,
having rendered it unnecessary to re-state that which had been so
recently brought before the public, he, in the present volume,
confined himself to the republication of the History of Wales, as
given by Mr. WYNNE, contenting himself with modernising the
language, supplying notes of reference, and occasionally intro-
ducing notes explanatory or corrective of Mr. WYNNE'S text. To
this revised edition of the History, he added a selection of
Topographical Notices relative to the several Counties, which,
while they are calculated to amuse and inform the reader, will
also be found to throw much additio?ial light on the history and
manners of the Cambro-Britons of former days, and give at the
same time a tolerably correct view of the present state of the
Principality. To enable him to make these notices more copious,
and to do so without augmenting unnecessarily the price of the
work, Mr. LLWYD omitted some appendages formerly attached to
r. Wynnes History, but which, while they were in themselves of
nature to be of little interest at any period, have now, by reason
of the facts therein referred to having been of late years much more
clearly elucidated by writers in publications of very general circu-
lation, become obsolete and disregarded. It is, therefore, hoped,
that the present edition of the HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF WALES
will be favourably received; and that the good intentions of its
deceased compiler will be accepted as an apology for any errors or
omissions that may be discovered by the historian, the antiquarian,
or the topographer.

JANUARY, 1832.

THE

HISTORY OF WALES.

W HEN the Roman empire, under Valentlnian the
younger, began to decline, and became sensibly unable
to repress the perpetual incursions of the Goths, Huns,
Vandals, and other barbarous invaders, it was found neces-
sary to abandon the remotest parts of that unwieldy body,
and to recal the Roman forces that defended them, the
better to secure the interior and the provinces most exposed
to the depredations of the barbarians. And in this exigency
of the Roman affairs, Britain, as lying far remote from the
heart of the empire, was deprived of the Roman garrisons ;
which, being transported into Gaul upon more urgent
occasions, left it naked and exposed to the inveterate cruelty
of the Scots and Picts : for no sooner had they understood
of the departure of the Romans out of Britain, and that the
Britons were to expect no further help from the empire,
but they descended in greater numbers than formerly, and
with greater courage and expectation, being now rid of the
fear they entertained of the Roman legions, who always
used to hinder their progress and to prevent their incursions
into the Roman province. The Britons, perceiving their
ancient and implacable enemies falling upon them, and
finding themselves far too weak to repel their endless
devastations, they, with a lamentable narrative of their own
miseries and the cruel oppressions of their enemies, sent
over to Gaul, imploring aid of ^Etius, prefect of that
province ; who, being moved with the deplorable condition
of their province, despatched over a legion under the com-
mand of Gallio, which unexpectedly surprising the Scots
and Picts, forced them, with great loss and destruction,
to retire over the seas or friths to their own habitations.
Then, helping the Britons to build a wall of stone across

the

I HISTORY OF WALES.

the land, for a bulwark against any future irruptions, the
Romans at their departure told them they could not any
more undertake such dangerous expeditions for their de-
fence, and therefore admonished them to take arms, and
like men vindicate their country, their wives, children, and
liberties, from the injuries of their barbarous enemies.

But as soon as the Roman legion was transported into
Gaul, the Picts and Scots returned, and having by a de-
sperate assault passed the wall, pursued the Britons with a
more dreadful and bloody slaughter than formerly. The
Britons, perceiving their condition most desperate, once
more sent their miserable complaints to ^Etius, in these
tragical words : " To SEtius, thrice consul, the groans of
the Britons : the barbarians drive us to the sea, and the
sea drives us back to them , and so, distracted betwixt two
deaths, we are either drowned or perish by the sword.*
But they solicited to no purpose : the Romans having al-
ready bid absolutely farewell to Britain, and the empire
being cruelly oppressed by the Goths and other barbarous
nations, they were not in a condition possibly to assist them.
The Britons, therefore, finding themselves absolutely for-
saken by the Romans, and conceiving it utterly impracticable
to drive away the barbarians by their own strength, saw it
urgently necessary to call in the aid of some foreign nation,
whose labour in repelling their enemies should be gratefully
and satisfactorily rewarded.

The reason that the British nation was at this time so
weak and impotent, and so manifestly unable to withstand
these barbarous enemies, who were far inferior as to extent
of country, and probably in number of people, may in great
measure be attributed to the ease and quietness the Britons
enjoyed under the Roman government. For whilst the
Roman legions continued in Britain, they ever undertook the
security and preservation of it ; so that the Britons hereto-
fore were little concerned at the incursions of the Scots and
Picts, depending wholly upon the strength and valour of the
Romans, insomuch that, within a while, they fell into a fit
of luxury and effeminacy, and quickly forgot that martial
prowess and military conduct which their ancestors so
famously excelled in. For, after their entire subjection to
the Romans, they had little or no opportunity to exercise
their valour, excepting in some home-bred commotions
excited by the aspiring ambition of some mal-eontented
general, which were quickly composed and reduced to
nothing. And after the Scots and Picts grew formidable,

and
* Bede, lib. 1, cap. xiii. p. 51.— Gildas, cap. xvii. — Giraldus Cambrensis, lib. 7, p. 42.

HISTORY OF WALES.

and durst venture to make incursions into the Roman pro-
vince, the Britons were the least concerned in opposing
them, leaving that to the care and vigilancy of the Roman
garrisons. And this easiness and supineness of the Britons
may not be untruly attributed to the policy of the Roman
constitution ; for when the Britons were brought subject to
the empire, the first thing the Romans effected towards the
confirmation of their obedience was to take the sword out of
their hands. They were sensible how bold and valorous
the Britons naturally were — how unlikely to submit their
necks to a foreign yoke ; and therefore they found it imprac-
ticable to obtain a quiet possession of this province, as long
as the Britons had power and opportunity to oppose them.
This course, therefore, they found very effectual, and when
they had once lulled them asleep, they were not over-
solicitous to rouse and awaken them.

The Britons also might possibly be too much taken with
this sedentary and inactive life ; and as long as they lived
secure under the protection of the Roman empire, they
little feared their country would become a prey to any
barbarous nation. No one would have imagined that that
glorious empire would be so soon crushed to pieces, which
could not otherwise be effected than by the insupportable
pressure of its own weight. The apprehension of the great-
ness and strength of the Romans made the Britons probably
less solicitous of enabling themselves to defend their coun-
try, not thinking they would ever forsake and relinquish the
province of Britain : but to their sorrow they experienced
the contrary, the affairs of the empire elsewhere requiring
the help of the British legions, so that they were left
exposed to the cruelties of the northern invaders, having
not as yet recovered any power or conduct to oppose them.
For had not the Scots and Picts come on so forcibly at first,
but had given time to the Britons to shake off the lethargy
they had for many years been buried in, and to renew their
ancient discipline and vigour, there had been no need of
calling in the Saxons, seeing they would in all probability
have been able to maintain their ground against any opposi-
tion, and very likely would have been in possession of their
whole country to this time. But, next to the decree of
heaven, the ruin of the British nation must be attributed to
its too much luxury and effeminacy, and to the universal
lapse of the nobility and people into an aversion of all
military action and martial discipline. For though a con-
tinued peace be in itself desirable, yet oftentimes nothing

tends
B 2

HISTORY OF WALES.

tends more to the future ruin and downfall of a nation.
For peace begets in men generally a habit of looseness and
debauchery, and is the occasion of many notorious extra-
vagancies and vicious practices, which weaken their hands
and cool their courage and greatness of mind, so that in
case of any open danger they are incapable of defending
their country, and unfit to oppose the common enemy.
Scarce any kingdom or nation was subverted, but the ruin
of it was ushered in by these means : witness the Assyrian
under Sardanapalus, the Persian under Darius, and the
Egyptian under Cleopatra ; so that it was most prudently
urged by a Roman senator that Carthage might not be
demolished, lest that, for want of an enemy abroad, the
valour of the Romans might degenerate, and their conduct
be forgotten. Had the Britons had the fortune to be con-
tinually in action, and not exchanged their courage and
discipline for ease and laziness, they would have had no
reason to dread the incursions of the Scots and Picts, nor
any need of the aid and assistance of a foreign nation ; but
the condition of their affairs then required it, and help must
be had, or else their country must unavoidably become a
prey to those northern invaders.

To prevent, therefore, and repel their violence, King
Vortigern held a council of his great men and nobles, at
which it was concluded to be most advantageous to the
Britons to invite the Saxons out of Germany to their aid,
who, in all probability, would gladly embrace the oppor-
tunity, by reason that their own country was grown too
scanty for their superfluous numbers. This message of the
Britons, however originally delivered, is by an ancient
Saxon writer repeated in this manner : — " Most noble
Saxons, the miserable Britons, shattered and quite worn
out by the frequent incursions of their enemies, upon
the news of your many signal victories, have sent us to
you, humbly requesting that you would assist them at
'this juncture. A land large and spacious, abounding
with all manner of necessaries, they give up entirely to
your disposal. Hitherto we have lived happily under
the government and protection of the Romans'. Next to
the Romans we know none of greater valour than your-
selves, and therefore in your arms do now seek refuge.
Let but that courage and those arms make us conquerors,
and we shall refuse no service you shall please to impose™
To this message the Saxons returned this short answer : —
fc Assure yourselves the Saxons will be true friends to
the Britons, and as such shall be ahvays ready both to
relieve their necessities and to advance their interest"

The

HISTORY OF WALES. 5

The Saxons being thus happily courted to what them-
selves had a thousand times wished for, arrived soon after
in Britain, in three gallies, called in their own language
Kiules, under the conduct of two brethren, Hengist and
Horsa.* Being honourably received by the king, and
affectionately treated by the people, their faith was given
on both sides ; the Saxons stipulating to defend the country
of the Britons, and the Britons to give the Saxons a satis-
factory reward for all the pains and dangers they should
undergo upon their account. At first the Saxons shewed
themselves very diligent in their employment, and success-
fully repelled the Scots and Picts, who, being probably
ignorant of the landing of the Saxons, and fearing no oppo-
sition, boldly advanced to the heart of the country. But
when the Saxons became better acquainted with the island,
and happily discovered the weakness and inability of the
Britons, under pretence that their pay was not answerable
to their service and deserts, they quarrelled with the Britons,
and, instead of siipporting them according to oath, entered
into a league with their e-nemies the Scots. Moreover,
Hengist, perceiving with whom tie had to do, sent over to
acquaint his countrymen with the beauty and fertility of the
island, and the infirmity and effeminacy of the inhabitants ;
inviting them to be sharers of his future success and ex-
pectations. With his invitation they readily complied, and
sailing over in great numbers they thought to take posses-
sion of that country, which fortune promised should be their
own : but they found that they must fight for it first ; the
Britons having resolved to defend themselves and their
country to the last against these treacherous practices of the
Saxons, and, if possible, to drive them to their primitive
habitations. For when the Britons became sensible of the
undermining aim of the Saxons, how they secretly endea-
voured the total extirpation of the British nation, they
presently betook themselves to their swords, and in a short
time became signally famous for their valour and conduct.
This the Saxons afterwards grievously felt, though the total
recovery of Britain proved impracticable for want of power;

the

* These were princes of great distinction. They were the descendants of Woden, the
founder of the nation, and regarded by the Saxons as the deity who presided in war,
agreeably to the custom of the early ages, of paying divine honours to any distinguished
individual who had been the instrument of glory or of utility to his country. From
Woden is derived Wednesday, being the day dedicated to the honour of that Saxon
deity : Friday, likewise, is derived from the Saxon goddess Fria, being the day dedicated
to her worship. And in the same manner every other day in the week has taken its
derivation from the Saxon deities.— See Verstegan, cap. iii. p. 69, 77. Bede, lib. 1,
cap. xv. p. 53.

> HISTORY OF WALES.

the Saxons having, by massacres and other treacherous
means, most unmercifully lessened the force and number of
the Britons. King Vortigern loved his ease too well to
observe their practices, and besides became so foolishly
enamoured with the daughter of Hengist, who purposely
was laid to entrap him, that the Saxons upon the strength
of this marriage began to carve for themselves, and during
Vortigern's reign* laid so firm a foundation for the Saxon
conquest, that the succeeding British kings, though famously
valiant, could never undermine it. The sottishness of his
father young Vortimer could not at length endure, nor to
see himself and his country so openly and shamefully
imposed upon by strangers, and therefore he resolved to
take the British government upon himself, and to endeavour
the universal expulsion of the Saxons. With him the
British nobility willingly joined, and after several famous
victories over the Saxons he was unhappily poisoned by a
Saxon lady. After his death the Britons bravely defended
themselves against the prevailing greatness of the Saxons,
under those valiant princes, Aurelius Ambrosius, Uther
Pendragon, Arthur, Constantine II. Aurelius Conanus,
Vortiper, and Maelgwyn. To him succeeded Careticus ; in
whose time the Saxons, aspiring to a total conquest of
Britain, invited over one Gurmundus, a Norwegian pirate,
who had lately signalized himself in Ireland, and obtained a
conquest over that kingdom. Him they employed to march
against Careticus, who being overcome and vanquished by
him, the Britons were forced some to retire beyond the
rivers Severn and Dee, some to Cornwall, and the rest to
Little Britain (or Britanny), in France. The British affairs
were now brought very low, and their government reduced
within a very narrow compass; so that the title of the
Kings of Britain can be but superficially attributed to the
succeeding princes, Cadwan, Cadwallon, and Cadwalader.

CADWALADER.

* Fabian, p. 79.

This prince had by his first wife three sons, Vortimer, Catigern, and Pascensj and he
bad one son named Faustus, it is said, by his own daughter.

HISTORY OF WALES.

CADWALADER.

C/ADWALADER, surnamed Vendiged, or the Blessed,
was the last of British race that enjoyed the title of King
of Britain; after him, the Welsh, who were the most AD. 678.
numerous remains of the Britons, disdaining to own any
subjection to the oppressing Saxons, set up a new govern-
ment among themselves, and altered the style of British
Kings to that of Princes of Wales. But whilst Cadwalader
ruled in Britain, a severe famine, attended with a raging
pestilence, which assuredly sprung from the continued war
which was so eagerly carried on betwixt the Britons and
Saxons, happened in the island, and occasioned a most
lamentable mortality among his subjects ; insomuch that he
was compelled, together with a great number of his nobility
and others, to retire for refuge to his cousin Alan, King of
Llydaw, or Little Britain in France. There he met with A
all civility suitable to his quality and condition, as well
because of his own near relation and consanguinity to Alan,*
as upon the account that their subjects were originally one
and the same people : for the inhabitants of Little Britain,
about the year of Christ 384, went over out of this island,
under the command of Conan, Lord of Meriadoc, to the
aid of Maximus the Tyrant, against the Emperor Gratianus.
For this service Maximus granted to Conan and his fol-
lowers the country of Armorica, where the Britons, having
driven out the former inhabitants, seated themselves, and
erected a kingdom, which lasted for many years under
several kings, whose names and succession are as follow : —

LIST OF THE ARMORICAN KINGS.

1. Conan Meriadoe. 13. Conobertus.

2. Gradlonus. 14. Budicus II.

3. Salomon I. 15. Theordoricus.

4. Auldranus. 16. Ruhalhonus.

5. Budicus I. 17. Daniel Dremrost, i. e.

6. Howelus Magnus. rubicunda facie.

7. Howelus II. 18. Aregstanus.

8. Alanus I. 19. Maconus.

9. Howelus III. 20. Neomenius.

10. Gilquellus. 21. Haruspogius.

11. Salomon II. 22. Salomon III.

12. Alanus II.

Alan

* Baker's Chron, p. 4.— J. Fordun's Hist. Scot.— Gale's Scriptor. p. 647.

3 HISTORY OF WALES.

Alan II. reigned in Little Britain, when Cadwalader was
forced to forsake his own dominions, and retire beyond the
seas. He was descended from Run, the son of Maelgwyn
Gwynedd, King of Great Britain, by a daughter married to
Howel the Second, King of Little Britain. This kingdom
remained firm till Salomon III. was treacherously slain by
his own subjects; upon which unhappy occurrence, the
kingdom was converted to an earldom, whereof one Alan
was the first, a valiant and warlike prince, who stoutly
resisted the Normans, and frequently vanquished and over-
came them.

But after Cadwalader had continued some time with
Alan, the plague being abated in Britain, he purposed to
return, and, if possible, to recover that part of his kingdom
which the Saxons were now in possession of* He received
frequent intelligence of their number and increase, how they
fairly bid for the conquest of that country which had been
governed by British kings for the space of 1827 years.
This troubled him exceedingly, and though he had little
hope of prevailing by the strength and number of his
forces, yet he made the best preparation that the oppor-
tunity would permit, and despatched his fleet for the
transportation of his army, which consisted partly of his
own subjects, and partly of such succours as he received
from Alan. Whilst he vigorously prosecuted this design,
and was ready to strike sail for Britain, his voyage was,
it is said, prevented by a message from heaven, which
counselled him to lay aside the thoughts of recovering his
kingdom, because it was already decreed above that the
Britons should no longer enjoy the government of Britain,
until the prophecy of Merlin Ambrosius was fulfilled. And
instead of a voyage to Britain, he was ordered to take his
journey to Rome, where he should receive holy orders at
the hands of Pope Sergius, and instead of recovering the
British crown, have his own crown shaved off, and be
initiated into the order of the monks. Whether this vision
was signified to him in a dream, or by the impositions
illusions of some wicked spirit ; or whether it may be a
fantastical conceit of his own, being a man of a mild and
easy temper, wearied with troubles and miseries, is very
dubious : but this is certain, that he never returned again
to Britain, after he had gone over to Alan. Cadwalader
had no sooner received this vision, but immediately he
relates the whole to his friend Alan, who presently consulted

all

* Baker's Chron. p. 4. — Welsh Chron. by Caradoc of Llancarvan, re-published by Dr.
Powel, p. 3.

HISTORY OF WALES. 9

all his prophetical books, chiefly the famous works of the
two Merlins, Ambrosius and Sylvestris : the first is said to
have been begotten on a spirit, and born in the town of
Carmarthen, whence he received the name of Merlin, and
to have flourished in the reign of King Vortigern. The
latter, called Caledonius, from the forest Caledon in Scot-
land, and Sylvestris or Merlin Wyllt, because he fell mad
and lived desolately after he had seen a monstrous shape
in the air, prophesied in the time of King Arthur, and far
more full and intelligible than the former. Both these were
in great reverence and reputation among the Britons, and
their works very rigorously preserved, and upon any con-
siderable occasion most reverently consulted. They were
of opinion that nothing could escape their knowledge ; and
that no accident of moment or revolution could happen
which they did not foretel, and which was not to be dis-
covered in their writings. In the consultation therefore of
their prophecies, and the words which an eagle is said to
have spoken at the building of Caer Septon, now Shaftesbury,
namely, that the Britons must lose the government of Britain
till the bones of King Cadwalader were brought back from
Rome, Alan found out that the time was now come when
these prophesies were to be accomplished, and Britons
forced to quit their native inheritance to strangers and
invaders. Upon this he advised Cadwalader to obey the
commands and follow the counsel of the vision, and to hasten
his journey for Rome. This he was willing to submit to, being
desirous to spend the remainder of his days in peace and
quietness, which before he had no opportunity to enjoy. To
Rome therefore he hastened, where he was kindly received
by Pope Sergius : and, after eight years spent there in piety
and devotion, he died in the year 688, and with him the
kingdom and total government of the Britons over this island.
King Cadwalader is said to have been a considerable
benefactor to the Abbey of Clynnoc Vawr in Arvon, upon
which he bestowed the Lordship of Grayanoc. This place
was primarily founded by St. Beuno, to whom it is dedicated,
who was the son of Hywgi ap Gwynlliw ap Grlywis ap
Tegid ap Cadell, a Prince or Lord of Glewisig, brother's
son to St. Cadoc ap Gwynlliw, sometime Bishop of Bene-
ventum, in Italy. He was by the mother's side cousin-
german to Laudatus, the first Abbot of Enlli, or the island
of Bardsey, and to Kentigern, Bishop of Glasgow, in Scot-
land, and of Llanelwy, or St. Asaph, in Wales; which last
was son to Owen, a Prince of Scotland, and grandson to
Unen Reged, King of Cumbria. The building of a

monastery

10 HISTORY OF WALES.

monastery at Clynnoc happened on this occasion : Beuno
having raised to life, as the tradition goes, St. Winifred,
who was beheaded by one Caradoc, a lord in North Wales,
upon the account that she would not yield to his unchaste
desires, became in very great esteem with King Cadvan,
who bestowed upon him certain lands whereon to build a
monastery. Cadwallon also, Cadvan's son, gave him the
lands of Gwaredoc, where beginning to build a church, a
certain woman with a child in her arms prevented his
further progress, assuring him that those lands were the
proper inheritance of that child. Beuno was so exceedingly
troubled at this, that without any more consideration on the
matter, taking the woman along with him, he went in all
haste to Caer Seiont, (called by the Romans Segontium,
now Carnarvon,*) where King Cadwallon then kept his
Court; when he was come before the king, he told him,
with a great deal of zeal and concern, that he had not done
well to devote to God's service what was another man's
inheritance, and therefore demanded back of him the golden
sceptre he had given him in lieu and consideration of the
said land, which the king refusing to do, was presently
excommunicated by Beuno, who thereupon departed and
went away. But a certain person called Gwyddeiant, the
king's cousin-german, hearing what had happened, imme-
diately pursued Beuno; whom, when he had overtaken,
he bestowed upon him (for the good of his own soul and the
king's) the township of Clynndc Vawr, being his undoubted
inheritance; where Beuno built a church, about the year
616, about which time King Cadvan died, leaving his son
Cadwallon to succeed him. And not long before this time,
Eneon Brenin, or Anianus, King of the Scots, a considerable
prince in the North of Britain, leaving all his royalty in
those parts, came to Leyn in Gwynedd, where he built a
church, which is still called from him, Llan Eingan Brenin ;
where he is said to have spent the remainder of his days in
the fear and service of God, He was son to Owen Danwyn,
the son of Eneon Yrth, son to Cunedda Wledig, King of
Cumbria, and a great prince in the North, and cousin-
german to the great Maelgwyn Gwynedd, King of Britain,
whose father was Caswallon-law-hir, or the long handed,f
the brother of Owen Danwyn ; and his mother Medif, the
daughter of Voylda ap Talu Traws, of Nanconwy. This
Maelgwyn died about the year 586.

IVOR

* Caer-yn-ar-von ; the city opposite Mona. — HunfFrey Lhuyd, p. 65.
t Rowland's Mona Ant p. 183.

HISTORY OF WALES. 11

IVOR & 1DWAL YWRCH.

Y? HEN Cadwalader was departed for Rome, Alan
began to reflect upon the state and condition of Great
Britain ; he imagined with himself that the recovery of it
was not impracticable, but that a considerable army might
regain what the Saxons now quietly possessed. Therefore
he was resolved to try the utmost, and to send over all the
forces he was able to draw together ; not doubting the con-
quest of some part of Britain, in case the whole should
prove irrecoverable. He was the more encouraged to this
expedition, by reason that the advantage was like to be his
own, and no one could challenge the government of Britain,
in case fortune should deliver it to his hands. Cadwalader
was gone to Rome, and in all probability never to return :
his son Idwal Ywrch, or the Roe, was young and under the
tuition of Alan, so that the event of this expedition must of
necessity fall to himself, or by his concession to his son
Ivor, who was to be chief in the undertaking. Having
raised a considerable army, consisting chiefly of his own
subjects, with what remained of the Britons that came over
with King Cadwalader, he despatched it for Britain, under
the command of his son Ivor, and his nephew Ynyr : they
safely landed in the western parts of Britain, which put the
Saxons to so great a fright, that they immediately drew up
all their power to oppose them, and to hinder their progress
into the country. The Britons, though somewhat fatigued
with their voyage, gave them battle, and after a very great
slaughter of the Saxons possessed themselves of the countries
of Cornwall, Devon, and Somersetshire. This proved a
fortunate beginning for the Britons, and gave them great
hopes of farther success in the recovery of their country ;
but that could not be expected without great opposition,
and several hot engagements with the Saxons. This they
were immediately made sensible of; for they had scarce time
to breathe, and to recover their spirits after the last battle,
but Kentwyn, King of the West-Saxons, marched against
them with a powerful army, consisting of Saxons and
Angles. The Britons resolved to fight them; but whilst
both armies were in view of each other they thought it more
advisable to cease from any hostility, and to enter into
articles of composition. Ivor seemed already satisfied with
his conquest, and willingly agreed to marry Ethelberga,
Kentwyn's cousin, and peaceably to enjoy for his life so

much

U HISTORY OF WALES.

much as he was already in possession of. This he faithfully
observed during the reign of Kentwyn and his nephew
Cadwal, who, after two years, resigned the kingdom of the
West- Saxons to his cousin Ivor. And now Ivor was become
unexpectedly powerful, being King as well of the Saxons
as of the Britons that inhabited the westeni parts of the
island. He was now able to undertake somewhat consider-
able, and therefore began to fall foul upon his neighbours,
the kings of Kent, of the West-Saxons, and Mercia, whom
he vanquished in several battles. But being at length tired
with the weight of government, he went to Rome, after the
example of Cadwalader, and resigned the rule of the Saxons
to his cousin Adelred, leaving the Britons to the care of
Roderic Molwynoc, the son of Idwal Ywrch.

This Ivor founded the Abbey of Glastonbury, called in
the British tongue Ynys Avalon ; wiiere there had been a
Christian church for several years before, and the first that
was ever erected in Britain. For Joseph of Arimathea
being sent by Philip the Apostle in the days of Arviragus,
An. Chr. 53^ to preach the Gospel in Britain, seated him-
self here, and built a church for the British Christians.
This chur;ch afterwards Ivor .converted into an abbey, which
he endowed with very large possessions ; being famous for
the burying-place of Joseph of Arimathea* and King

Arthur.

* Whether the ancient tradition of Joseph of Arimathea, who might then well transport
himself into Britain in one of the Phoenician ships that frequently traded for tin, and to
carry with him the first tidings of Christ, has any foundation in truth (not heeding the
Glastonbury story), is uncertain. Yet it seems very probable that that honourable per-
son, soon after the ascension of Christ, conveyed himself away from the Jewish sanhedrim,
of which he was a member, to some remote country, for fear the Jews should question
him about Christ's body, which he had buried, but which had risen up from the grave he
had laid it in : which must be a fear well grounded, and a just occasion of his'withdrawing
himself somewhere out of their reach. And that he'di'd so is very likely ; for a person of
his character and merit, if he had staid in Judea during the ten succeeding years after the
resurrection, would in all probability have met with an eminent mention even in Scrip-
ture, either for his death or his conduct in propagating the gospel.— Rowland's Mona
Antiqua Re,staurata, p. 138.

Glastonbury derives its origin (says Camden) from Joseph of Arimathea, the same who
buried Christ's body ; who, when he came to preach the gospel in Great Britain, as it is
asserted he 'did by the Romish legends, he landed in the isle of Avilon, fixed his staff in
the ground, (a dry thorn sapling, which had been his companion through all the countries
he had passed), and fell asleep. When he awoke, he found to his great surprise that his
staff had taken root, and was covered with white blossoms. From this miracle, however,
he drew a natural conclusion, that, as the use of his staff was thus taken from him, it was
ordained that he should take up his abode in this place. .Here, therefore, he built a
chapel, which, by the piety of succeeding times, increased into this magnificent foundation.
But of these edifices, a small part of the great church of the abbey, fragments of Saint
Joseph's chapel, the abbot's kitchen, and some unintelligible and dilapidated walls, a're
all which now survive.

Gibson, in his additions to Camden, folio 78, says — « From hence let us go alopg wi,th
Mr. Camden north. west to Glassonbury, where, among other curiosities, he mentions the
budding of a hawthorn-tree on Christmas Day. The tree has been cut down these many
y»'ars ; yet there are some still growing in the county from branches of that, as particu-
larly one in the garden of William Stroud, Esq. possessor of the ground where the other
stood, another in the garden of the White Hart Inn, in Glassonbury."

HISTORY OF WALES. 13

Arthur. He bestowed also some lands upon the church of
Winchester.

But there happened several casualties in his time.
Brythe, a subject to Egfride King of Northumberland,
passed over to Ireland, and wasted and destroyed a great
part of that kingdom. In the fourth year of his reign there
happened a remarkable earthquake in the Isle of Man, which
much disturbed and annoyed the inhabitants ; and the year
following it rained blood both in Britain and Ireland. This
occasioned the butter and milk to resemble the colour of
blood; and two years after the moon also appeared all
bloody. These accidents of nature might presage some
tumults and disturbances in the kingdom ; which were very
great in his time. For he was almost in perpetual hostility
with the Kings of Kent, West-Sex, and Mercia ; which
occasioned great bloodshed and slaughter in Britain. His
journey to Rome put an end to all these commotions, from
whence he never did return, but ended his days there in
the practice of piety and religion.

RODERIC MOLWYNOC.

I HE Government of the Britons Ivor resigned to Roderic
Molwynoc, the son of Idwal Ywrch, who began his reign
An. 720. But Adelred, King of the West-Saxons, was A.D. 720.
displeased that Ivor had not bestowed upon him his whole
kingdom ; and upon that account he resolved to trouble
and plague Roderic and his Britons. He raised immedi-
ately a powerful army, and with all his forces marched to
Devonshire, which he destroyed with fire and sword.
From thence he proceeded to Cornwall, intending to make
that country sensible of the same misery ; but he came far
short of his expectations, for upon his entrance into the
county the Britons opposed him and gave him battle, where
he was vanquished and forced to retire with all speed to his
own dominions. This victory the Britons called Gwaeth
Heilyn, from the place where this battle was fought. The A.D. 721.
year following, the Britons again obtained two notable
victories over the Saxons ; the one at a place called Garth
Maelawc, in North Wales, the other at Pencost, in South
Wales. But the joy and satisfaction which the Britons
entertained of these successes, were somewhat abated by the
death of Belin, the son of Elphin, a man of noble birth, and
great worth among them.

About

14 HISTORY OF WALES.

About the same time Celredus King of Mercia died, and
was succeeded by Ethelbaldus, who being very desirous to
annex that fertile and pleasant country lying between the
rivers Severn and Wye to his Kingdom of Mercia, entered
Wales with a puissant army. He destroyed and ravaged
the country before him to Carno, a mountain lying not far
from Abergavenny,* where he was met with by the Britons,
between whom a bloody and sore battle was fought in the

A.D.728. year 728, but the victory proved very dubitable.

Not long after died the venerable Bede,f who was edu-

A.D. 733. cated and brought up in the Abbey of Wyrnetham or larewe ;
a man of great learning and extensive knowledge, who wrote
several books, one of which, entitled, the Ecclesiastical
History of the English Nation, he dedicated to Cleolwolfe
King of Northumberland. The same time Adelred King of
the West-Saxons, and Ethelbald King of Mercia, united
their forces, and jointly marched to fight against the Britons.
The Welsh were now put to very hard straits and forced to
oppose the numerous armies of two powerful kings. How-
ever, fight they must, or suffer their country to be miserably
over-run by their inveterate enemies. Both armies being
engaged, a very dismal battle ensued thereupon, and a very
great slaughter happened on both sides ; but the Saxons
prevailing by the number of their forces obtained a very
bloody victory over the powerless Britons. But Adelred,
who was shortly followed by Edwyn King of the Picts, did
not long survive this battle ; and Cudred took upon him the
government of the West-Saxons. The Welsh found them-
selves unable to cope with the Saxons, and too weak to
repress their endless incursions, therefore they applied them-
selves to Cudred and joined in league with him, who, upon
some occasion or other, had actually fallen out with

A D 746 Ethelbald King of Mercia. But Ethelbald was so proud
with the success of the last engagement, that notwithstand-
ing the league with Cudred, he must needs again fall upon
the Welsh. He advanced as far as Hereford, J where the
Britons, by the help of Cudred, gave him a signal over-
throw, and caused him to repent of his rash and precipitous
expedition. But shortly after, Cudred and Ethelbald were
unluckily reconciled, and made friends together, and Cudred
relinquishing the Welsh, joined his forces to Ethelbald's.
Hereupon ensued another battle, in which the Welsh, being
greatly overpowered, were vanquished by the Saxons ; after

which

* Abergefni.

t At this time (A. D. 734) died the venerable Bede.— Flores Hist. Matth. Westm.
p. 203.

t Anciently called Henffordd, or the old road of Englishmen.— Humffrey Lhuyd, p. 74.

HISTORY OF WALES. 15

which victory Cudred shortly died. To him succeeded
Sigebert, a man of a loose and vicious inclination, who, A-D-748-
for his ill-behaviour in the management of his kingdom,
was in a short time expelled and deprived by his nobi-
lity, and at last miserably slain by a rascally swineherd.
After him Kenulph was chosen King of the West-Saxons,
Ann. 750, in whose time died Theodore, the son of Belin, A.D. 750.
a man of great esteem and reputation among the Britons.
And about the same time a remarkable battle was fought
between the Britons and the Picts at a place called Mage-
dawc, in which the Picts were put to a total rout, and
Dalargan their king casually slain. But the Britons did
not succeed so well against the Saxons ; for Roderic Molwy-
noc was at length forced to forsake the western countries of
Britain, and to claim his own inheritance in North Wales.*
The sons of Bletrus or Bledericus, Prince of Cornwall and
Devonshire, who was one of them that vanquished Adelred
and Ethelbert at Bangor on the river Dee, had enjoyed the
government of North Wales ever since Cadfan was chosen
King of Britain. Roderic, therefore, demanded the govern-
ment of this country as his right, which he was now willing
to accept of, seeing he was forced to quit what he had
hitherto possessed. But he did not long enjoy it ; for he
died in a short time, leaving behind him f two sons, Conan
Tindaethwy and Howel, after that he had in all reigned
over the Britons thirty years. '

CONAN TINDAETHWY.

JiCODERIC Molwynoc being dead, his son, Conan
Tindaethwy took upon him the government and principality
of Wales, in the year 755.J He was scarcely settled in his A--D- 755>
throne, but the Saxons began to make inroads into his
country, to spoil and destroy what they conveniently could
meet with. They were animated thereto by the ill success
of Roderic ; and having forced the Britons out of Cornwall
and Devonshire, they thought it practicable to drive them
out of Wales too, and so to reduce the possession of the
whole Island to themselves. This was their aim, and this
they endeavoured to put in execution ; but they were met

with

* Rowland's Mona Ant. p. 188.

f He usually resided at Caer Segont, on the Straits of the Menai, in Caernarvonshire.
—Rowland's Mona Ant. p. 172.

| Rowland's Mona Ant, p. 188.

1C HISTORY OF WALES.

with at Hereford, where a severe battle was fought between
them and the Welsh, in which Dyfnwal the son of Theodore,
a stout and valiant soldier, was slain. And shortly after-
wards died Athelbert, King of Northumberland, and was
succeeded by Oswald.

About the same time happened a religious quarrel be-
tween the Britons and Saxons, concerning the observation of
the feast of Easter, which Elbodius, a learned and pious
man, endeavoured to rectify in Wales, and to reduce to
the Roman calculation, which the Saxons always observed.
The Britons differed from the Church of Rome in the
celebration of this feast ; and the difference was this. The
Church of Rome, according to the order of the council of
Nice, always observed Easter-day the next Sunday after the
14th day of the moon ; so that it never happened upon the
14th day itself, nor passed the 21st. The Britons on the
other hand celebrated their Easter upon the 14th, and so
forward to the 20th, which occasioned this difference, that
the Sunday observed as Easter-day by the Britons was but
Palm-Sunday with the Saxons. Upon this account the
Saxons did most uncharitably traduce the Britons, and
would scarcely allow them the name and title of Christians.
Hereupon, about the year 660, a great contest happened,
managed on the one part by Colman and Hylda, who
defended the rites and celebration of the Br:tons ; and by
Gilbert and Wilfride on the part of the Saxons. Hylda
was the niece of Edwine, King of Northumberland, edu-
cated by Pauline and Aedan. She publicly opposed
Wilfride and other superstious monks, as to such trifles and
bigotry in religion, alleging out of Polycrates, the fact of
Irenaeus, who withstood Victor, Bishop of Rome, upon the
same account; and the custom of the churches of Asia
observed by St. John the Evangelist, Philip the Apostle,
Polycarpus, and Melito ; and likewise observed in Britain
by Joseph of Arimathea, who first preached the gospel
here.

Offa* was made King of Mercia, and Brichtrich of the
•D.763. West-Saxons; about which time died Fermael, the son of
Edwal and Cemoyd, King of the Picts. The Saxons daily
encroached upon the lands and territories of the Welsh
beyond the river Severn, but more especially towards the
south part of the country. These encroachments the Welsh
could not endure, and therefore were resolved to recover
their own, and to drive the Saxons out of their country.
The Britons of South Wales, as receiving the greatest injury

and
* Saxon. Annal. p. 59.

HISTORY OF WALES. 17

and disadvantage from the Saxons, presently took up arms A. D. 776.
and entered into the country of Mercia, which they ravaged
and destroyed with fire and sword. Shortly after, all the
Welsh joined their forces together, fell upon the Saxons,
forced them to retire beyond the Severn, and then returned
home with a very considerable spoil of English cattle.* The
Welsh, finding the advantage of this last incursion, and how
that by these means they galled and vexed the Saxons,
frequently practised the same; and, entering their country
by stealth, they killed and destroyed all before them, and
driving the cattle beyond the river, ravaged and laid waste
the whole country. OfFa, King of Mercia, not being able
to endure these daily incursions and depredations of the
Welsh, entered into a league with the rest of the Saxon
kings to bend their whole force against the Welsh, and
having raised a very strong and numerous army, passed the
Severn into Wales. The Welsh being far too weak to
oppose and encounter so great an army, quitted the even
and plain country lying upon the banks of the Severn and
Wye,f and retired to the mountains and rocks, where they
knew they could be most safe from the inveterate and
revengeful arms of the Saxons: but as soon as the Saxons
retired, being unable to effect any thing against them in
these strong and natural fortifications, the Welsh still made
inroads into their territories, and seldom returned without
some considerable booty and advantage. The Saxons were
much nettled at these bo-peeping ravagers, and pursued
them still to their holds, but durst not follow them further,
lest they should be entrapped by such as defended the
straights and passages of the rocks. King OfFa, perceiving
that he could effect nothing by these measures, annexed
the country about the Severn and Wye to his kingdom of
Mercia, and planted the same with Saxons :£ and for a
further security against the continued invasions of the
Welsh he made a deep ditch, extending from one sea to
the other, called Clawdd OfFa, or OfFa's Dike; upon which
account the royal seat of the Princes of Powys was trans-
lated from Pengwern,§ now Shrewsbury, to Mathraval in
Montgomeryshire.

While
c

* Welsh Chron. p. 19. f Hafren and Gwy.^-Langhornl Chron. Reg. Ang. p. 292.

J The large towns and cities situate to the east of the Severn and Dee were probably
built at this period to check the incursions of the Welsh by a strong line of frontier posts.
The villages likewise on the east side of Clawdd OfFa, whose names terminate in ton or
ham, were about this time inhabited by Saxons, who were usually called Gwyr y Mers,
or the men of Mercia, though in after times the Welsh settled on each side of the dike.

§ Its ancient name was Pengwern, or the head of a place where alders grow, and was
the seat of the Kings of Powys; whence the Saxon term Schrewsbury is derived.—
Humffrey Lhuyd's Breviary, pp. 27 and 50.

18 HISTORY OF WALES.

A. D. 795. While these things were transacted in the west, the
Danes began to grow powerful at sea, and ventured to land
in tlie north of England; but without doing any great hurt,
being forced to betake themselves to their ships again.
Within six years after they landed again in great numbers,
and proved much more terrible; they ravaged and de-
stroyed a great part of Linsey and Northumberland, over-
run the best part of Ireland, and miserably wasted Rechreyn.
At the same time a considerable battle was fought at
Rhuddlan between the Saxons and Welsh, wherein Caradoc
king of North Wales was killed. The government of Wales
was as yet but weak, and not firmly rooted, by reason of the
perpetual quarrels and disturbances between the Welsh and
the Saxons; so that the chief person or lord of any country
assumed to himself the title of king. Caradoc was a person
of great esteem and reputation in North Wales, and one
that did very much contribute towards the security of the
country against the incursions of the Saxons. He was son
to Gwyn, the son of Colhoyn, the son of Ednowen, son to
Blethyn, the son of Blecius or Bledericus, Prince of Corn-

A D 796 wa^ anc^ Devonshire. Offa, King of Mercia,* did not long
survive him, and was succeeded by his son Egfert, who in a
short time left his kingdom also to Kenulphus; a year after
that Egbertus was created King of the West Saxons.
About the same time died Arthen, son to Sitsylht, the son
of Clydawc King of Cardigan; and sometime after, Run
King of Dyfed,f and Cadelh King of Powys, who were
followed by Elbodius, Archbishop of North Wales, before
whose death happened a very great eclipse of the sun.
The year following the moon was likewise eclipsed upon
' Christmas-day. These fatalities and eclipses were thought
to portend no success to the affairs of Wales ; the laying of
St. David's in ashes by the West Saxons being followed by
a general and very grievous murrain of cattle, which much
impoverished the whole country. The following year,
Owen the son of Meredith, the son of Terudos, died, and
the castle of Deganwy was destroyed by lightning.

These great losses which the Welsh sustained did not
reconcile Prince Conan and his brother Howel; for they
quarrelled with each other when they had the more occasion
to embrace and unite their endeavours against the common
enemy. Howel claimed the isle of Anglesey as part of his
father's inheritance, which Conan would by no means accede
to, nor consent that his brother should take possession of it.
It was the custom of Wales, that a father's estate should be
equally distributed between all his sons; and Howel, by

virtue

* Welsh Chron. p. 20. f Pembroke.

HISTORY OF WALES. 19

virtue of this custom, commonly called Gavelkind from the
word Gafel, to hold, claimed that island as his portion of
his father's estate. This custom of Gavelkind was the
occasion of the ruin and diminution of the estates of all the
ancient nobility in Wales, which, being endlessly divided
between the several sons of the same family, were at length
reduced to nothing. From hence also proceeded various
unnatural wars and disturbances between brothers, who,
beina: either not satisfied with their portions or displeased
with the country they were to possess, disputed their right
by dint of the sword. This proved the case in the present
instance; for Howel would not suffer himself to be cheated
out of his paternal inheritance, and therefore he endeavoured
to recover it by force of arms. Both armies being engaged,
the victory fell to Howel, who immediately thereupon pos-
sessed himself of the island, and valiantly maintained it
against the power and strength of his brother Conan.

The Welsh bein<j thus at variance and enmity among
themselves, and striving how to destroy one another, had
yet another disaster added to their misfortunes. For the
following year they suffered a very considerable loss by
thunder storms, which very much injured the country, and
laid several houses and towns in ashes. About the same
time, Griffith the son of Run, a person of considerable
quality in Wales, died ; and Griffri the son of Cyngen was
treacherously murdered by the practices of his brother Elis.

But Conan would not rest satisfied with his brother
Howel's forcible possession of the Island of Anglesey, and
therefore he was resolved again to give him battle, and
to force him to restore and yield up the possession of that
country which he had now in his hands. Howel, on the
other hand, being as resolutely bent to maintain his ground,
and not to deliver up a foot of what he possessed, as well in
respect of his father's legacy as his late conquest, willingly
met his brother, put him to flight, and killed a great num-
ber of his forces. Conan was greatly enraged at this
shameful overthrow, and therefore resolved either to recover
the island from his brother, or to sacrifice his life and his
crown in the quarrel. Having drawn up all the forces he A D 817
could raise together, he marched to Anglesey to seek his
brother Howel, who being too weak to encounter and oppose
so considerable a number, was compelled to make his escape
to the Isle of Man, and to leave the Island of Anglesey to
the mercy of his brother. Conan, however, did not live
long to reap the satisfaction of this victory, but died in a

short
c 2

20 HISTORY OF WALES.

short time, leaving issue an only daughter called Esylht,
married to a nobleman of Wales named Merfyn Frych. He
was son to Gwyriad or Uriet, the son of Elidur, who was
lineally descended from Belinus, the brother of Brennus
King of the Britons. His mother was Nest, the daughter
/i Cadelh King of Powys, the son_of BrochwelYscithroc,*
who, together with Cadfan king of Britain, Morgan King
of Demetia, and Bledericus King of Cornwall, gave that
memorable overthrow to Etheldred King of Northumber-
land, upon the river Dee, in the year 617. This Brochwel,
by the Latin writers named Brecinallus and Brochmaelus,
wag a yerv considerable prince in that part of Britain called
Powys-land ; he was also Earl of Chester, and lived in the
town then called Pengwern Powys, now Salop, and in the
place where the college of St. Chad was subsequently
erected. He was a great friend and a favourer to the
monks of Bangor, whose part he took against the Saxons
that were urged by Augustine the monk to prosecute them
with fire and sword, because they would not forsake the
customs of their own church, and conform to those of

MERFYN FRYCH & ESYLHT.

being dead, Merfyn Frych and his wife Esylht,
who was sole heir to Conan, took upon them the govern-
ment of the principality of Wales. This Merfyn was King
of Man, and son to Gwyriat and Nest, the daughter of
Cadelh ap Brochwel ap Elis King of Powys.f Howel,
being forcibly ejected out of Anglesey by his brother,
Conan Tindaethwy, escaped to the Island of Man, and was
honourably and kindly received by Merfyn ; in return for
whose civilities Howel used such means afterwards, that
Merfyn married Esylht, the daughter and heir of his brother
Conan (though others say that he died presently after his
escape to Merfyn). Howel, after he had for about five

years

* Of whom it is thus written in Hist&ria Diva Monacella;—" Fuit olim in Powysia
quidam Princeps illustrissimus nomine Brochwel Ysgithrog, consul Leycestriae, qui in
urbem itunc temporis, Pengwern Powys, nunc veto Salopia dicta est habitabat; cujus
domic-ilium seu Habitaculum ibi steterat ubi collegium divi Ceddae nunc situm est." —
t. e. u There was sometime in Powys a noble prince, named Brochwel Ysgithrog, Consul
or Earl of Chester, who dwelt in a town then called Pengwern Powys, and now Salop,
whose dwelling house was in the very same place where the College of St. Chad now
standeth."

t Welsh Chronicle, p. 22.

HISTORY OF WALES. 21

years enjoyed the Isle of Man, and other lands in the north
which he held under Merfyn, died about the year 825 ; on
whose death these possessions again reverted to Merfyn,
whose ancestors had always held the same under the Kings
of the Britons ; and thus, upon his marriage with Esylht,
the Isle of Man was annexed to the crown of Wales.*

In the first year of their reign, Egbert, the powerful King
of the West Saxons, entered with a mighty army into
Wales, destroyed and wasted the country as far as Snow-
don, and seized upon the lordship of Rhyvonioc in Den-
bighland.f About the same time a battle was fought in
Anglesey between the Saxons and Welsh, called, from the
place where it happened, the battle of Llanvaes. Fortune
seemed during this period to frown upon the Welsh, and
their affairs were very unsuccessful ; for shortly after Egbert
had advanced as far as Snowdon, Kenulph King of Mercia
wasted the country of West Wales, over-ran and destroyed
Powys-land, and greatly disturbed and incommoded the
Welsh nation.^ Soon after this, Kenulph died, and was
succeeded by Kenelm ; and he in a short time by Ceol-
wulph, who, after two years' reign, left the kingdom of
Mercia to Bernulph.

Egbert, King of the West Saxons, was grown very strong A, D. 828.
and powerful, and contemplated the reduction of all the
petty kingdoms in Britain under one single monarchy;!
upon which he commenced with Bernulph King of Mercia,
and vanquished him at Elledowne ; and afterwards brought
under subjection the countries of Kent and of the West
Angles. But the Britons would not be so easily subdued ;
for after a long and a cruel fight at Gavelford, between
them and the West Saxons of Devonshire, in which several
thousands were slain on both sides, the victory remained
uncertain. He had better success against Wyhtlafe King A. D- §29.
of Mercia, whose dominions he easily added to his now
increasing monarchy ; and passing the Humber, he quickly
reduced that country to his subjection. The Saxon hep-
tarchy was now become one kingdom, and Egbert sole
monarch of all the countries that the Saxons possessed in
Britain ; which name he ordered should be changed to
England, his ^ people to be called Englishmen, and the
language English.||

They

* Rowland's Mona Ant. p. 188.

f Matthew Westm. (p. 224—227) recites three different invasions of Wales by Egbert,
in which he subdued that country and made its kings tributary. A. D. 810, 811, 830.

t Welsh Chron. pp.^24, 25.

§ Fabian, p. 184. — Rowland's Mona Ant. p. 171.

|] Humffrey Lhuyd's Brev. p. 13.— Verstegan, c. 5, p. 125.

22 HISTORY OF WALES.

They who came over out of Germany into this island to
aid the Britons against their enemies the Picts and Scots,
were partly Saxons, Angles, and Juthes ; from the first of
whom came the people of Essex, Sussex, Middlesex, and
the West Saxons ; from the Angles, the East Angles, the
Mercians, and they that inhabited the north side of the
Humber ; from the Juthes, the Kentishmen and they that
settled in the Isle of Wight. These Germans, after they
had driven the Britons beyond Severn and Dee, erected
seven kingdoms, called the Heptarchy, in the other part of
the island: namely, 1. Kent. 2. The South Saxons, con-
taining Sussex and Surrey. 3. The East Angles, in Nor-
folk, Suffolk, and Cambridgeshire. 4. The kingdom of the
West Saxons, comprehending Berkshire, Devonshire, So-
mersetshire, and Cornwall. 5. Mercia, containing the
present counties of Gloucester, Hereford, Worcester, Salop,
Stafford, Chester, Warwick, Leicester, Derby, Nottingham,
Lincoln, Northampton, Oxford, Buckingham, Bedford, and
part of Hertford. 6. The East Saxons, containing Essex,
Middlesex, and the other part of Hertford. 7. The North-
umbrians, taking in all the country beyond Humber, which
was divided into two parts, Deyra and Bernicia, the first
portion extending from Humber to Tyne, the other from
Tyne to the Scottish sea.

Egbert, King of the West Saxons, having severally
conquered these kingdoms, annexed them together, and
comprehended them under one monarchy, which was called
the kingdom of England, 968 years after the coming of
Brute to this island, 383 years after the landing of Hengist,
and 149 years after the departure of Cadwalader to Rome.

Egbert,* having thus united under one government these
several kingdoms, which used continually to molest and to
encroach upon each other's territories, .might reasonably
have expected to enjoy his new kingdom quietly, without
A. D. 883. fear of any disturbance or trouble in his dominions. But
no sooner was he established king of England, than the
Danes began to threaten new commotions, and landed in
great numbers, and in divers parts of the coast. Egbert
fought several battles with them, and with various success:
at length the Danes landed in West Wales, marched for-
ward for England, being joined by a great number of
Welsh, and met Egbert upon Hengist-down, where a severe
battle was fought, and the Danes put to a total rout.f The
Welsh suffered severely for this : Egbert, being highly
incensed that the Danes were supported by them, laid siege

to

* Welsh Chron. p. 24, 25.— f S&^on Chron. p. 72.

HISTORY OF WALES.

to Caer Lheon ar Dhyfrdwy, or Chester, the chief city of
Venedotia, which hitherto had remained in the hands of
the Welsh ;* he took the place, and, among other tokens of
his indignation, he caused the brazen effigies of Cadwalhon
King of Britain to be pulled down and defaced, f and for-
bad the erecting of such again on pain of death. He issued
also a proclamation by the instigation of his wife Redburga,
who always bore an inveterate hatred towards the Welsh,
commanding all that were any ways descended from British
blood, to depart, with all their effects, out of his kingdom
within six months, upon pain of death. J These were very
severe and insupportable terms; but he did not live to
see them put in execution ; for dying shortly after the battle
of Hengist-down, he was succeeded by his son Ethelwulph.
This King Ethelwulph married his daughter to Berthred,
who was his tributary King of Mercia, by whose help he
successfully opposed the cruel incursions of the Danes, who
miserably destroyed the sea-coasts of England by fire and
sword. These Danish invasions having been successfully
resisted, Berthred King of Mercia attacked the Welsh,
with whom a remarkable battle was fought at a place called
Kettell ; where Merfyn Frych, King of the Britons, was *
killed, leaving his son Roderic Mawr, or the Great, to suc-
ceed him in the government of Wales.g

RODERIC THE GREAT.

MERFYN FRYCH having lost his life, and with it his
kingdom, in the battle of Kettell, his son Roderic, sur- 843'
named the Great, without any opposition, succeeded to the
Principality of Wales. The first thing he effected after his
advancement to the crown was the dividing of Wales into
3 provinces, which he distinguished thus: — Aberffraw, Dine-
vawr, and Mathraval. Berthred, King of Mercia, being
animated by his late success against Merfyn Frych, pur-
posed to perform the like exploits against his son Roderic ;
and having gained the aid and assistance of King Ethel-
wulph, he entered North Wales|| with a strong army, and
advanced as far as Anglesey, which he cruelly ravaged.
Roderic met him several times, and the Welsh at length so
galled and resisted him that he had little or nothing to

boast

* Chron. of Wales, p. 72. f Stowe's Chron. p. 77.

I Chron. of Wales, p. 27. § Saxon Chron. p. 75.

II Rowland's Mona Ant. p. 174.— Sim. Dunelme, p. 120-139.— Hist. Angl. Script.— )
Matthew Westm. p. 231. — Chron. of Wales, p. 35.

24 HISTORY OF WALES.

boast of, although Meyric, one of the chief princes among
the Britons, was slain.

Berthred was, however, soon forced to desist from his
expedition against the Welsh, and to turn his forces another
way, his own dominions requiring their constant residence,
A. D. 846. being severely threatened by a foreign invasion : for the
Danes were by this time grown so very powerful, that they
overran a great part of England, fought with Athelstan,
King of Kent, brother to Ethel wulph, and obtained so
much footing, that whereas they had on previous occasions
returned to their own country when the weather grew too
cold for action, they now took up their winter quarters in
England.

The Welsh, in the mean time, being secure from that
violence which they might otherwise have expected from
the English, began to quarrel and fall out amongst them-
selves. Ithel, King of Gwent or Wentland, for what occa-
sion is not known, attacked the men of Brecknock, who
were so resolute as to fight him, and the event proved fatal
to Ithel, who was slain upon the spot: thus affording
another proof that it is the unhappiness of a nation to be
composed of several petty states, for in such case, when it
js not under apprehension of danger from an outward enemy,
it will often be at variance and experience disturbance
within itself.

Had the Britons, instead of falling upon one another,
taken the advantage of this opportunity, when the Saxons
were altogether employed in opposing and repelling the
Danes, to increase and strengthen their number and to
fortify their towns, they might at least securely have pos-
sessed their own dominions, if not extended their govern-
ment to a great part of England ; but a sort of an equality
in power begat an emulation between the several princes,
and this emulation for the most part ended in contention, —
so that instead of strengthening themselves whilst they had
respite from the English, they rather weakened their power
by inward differences.

Kyngen King of Powys having gone to Rome, there to

A.D. 854. end his days peaceably and religiously, experienced a death

not so natural as he had anticipated, being barbarously

Mf slain (or, as some say, choked) by his own servants.

Shortly after died Cemoyth King of the Picts, and Jonathan

Lord of Abergeley. It was at this time customary for

princes wearied with government to go to Rome, and the

Pope willingly dispensed with the resignation of their

crowns, because his Holiness seldom lost by it. King

Ethelwulph

HISTORY OF WALES. 25

Ethelwulph paid very dear for his entertainment there,
having made his kingdom tributary to the Pope, and paid
the Peter-pence to the church of Rome. The Saxon genea-
logists carry the pedigree of Ethelwulph even up to Adam,
as may be seen in Matthew of Westminster, who in like
manner derives the pedigree of Oflfa, King of Mercia.
This pride in genealogy has been the custom of most
nations both ancient and modern, and has always been
evinced by those whose families are ancient and honourable;
so that it is very unfair to deride the Welsh because they
adhere to this ancient and laudable custom.

Berthred King of Mercia became at length far too weak
to repel the daily increasing power of the Danes, who so
numerously poured upon him, that at last he was forced to
relinquish his kingdom and fly to Rome, where in a short
time he sorrowfully ended his days. Ethelwulph soon fol-
lowed, and left his sons, Athelbald King of the West Saxons,
and Athelbright King of Kent and of the East Saxons.
Ethelwulph is reported to have been so learned and devout,
that the church of Winchester elected him in his youth
Bishop of that see, which function he took upon him about
seven years before he was made king. He is said also to
have conquered the kingdom of Demetia or South Wales,
which, together with the kingdom of the South-Saxons, he
bestowed upon his son Alfred, upon condition he would
bring a thousand men out of Wales to Winchester to the
aid of his brother Ethelbert against the Danes. Athelbald
succeeding his father in the kingdom of the West Saxons,
kept his mother-in-law, the wife of Ethelwulph, for his
concubine, and afterwards married her in the city of Chester.
He did not live long in this unnatural connexion, but dying
without issue after he had reigned eight years, left his
kingdom to his brother Athelbright.

About the same time the Danes began again to bestir
themselves, and attacked the city of Winchester and de-
stroyed it, on which Athelbright, after a long fight, forced
them to quit the land and to betake themselves to sea
again: but the Danes quickly returned to the Isle of Thanet,
where they remained for that winter, doing much mischief
upon the sea-coast, and destroying various places on the
coast of England. The English were very glad that they
durst venture no further, and the more, because the Welsh
began again to be troublesome, against whom an army was
speedily dispatched, in order to prevent the advance of the
Welsh to the English country. Both armies met at Gwey-
then, where a fierce battle was fought, and a great number

slain

26 HISTORY OF WALES.

slain on each side, but the victory was uncertain. The
Welsh, however, not long after, sustained a considerable
loss by the death of Conan Nant Nifer, a brave and skilful
commander, who oftentimes had valiantly repulsed the
English forces, and obtained many signal victories over
them.

The Danes had been for some time quiet, being unable
to venture upon any considerable action, and deeming it
adviseable to secure only what they had already won until
they received a reinforcement from their own country. This
was quickly sent them, under the command of Hungare and
Hubba, who landed in England with a very considerable
army of Danes. King Athelbright, whether terrified with
apprehension of these invaders, or otherwise being indis-
posed, quickly afterwards gave up the ghost, leaving the
management of his kingdom, together with that of his army
against the Danes, to his brother Ethelred. The Danes in
the mean time got sure footing, and advanced as far as
York, which they miserably wasted, killing Osbright and
Elba, two Kings of Northumberland that opposed them.
From hence they proceeded to overrun all the country as
far as Nottingham, destroying and spoiling all before them,
and then returned back to York : but having once tasted
how sweet was the spoil of a country much more fertile than
their own, they could not rest satisfied with what they had
already obtained, but made a farther progress into the
country, and attacked the kingdom of the East-Angles.
Edmund King of that country being unwilling to endure
their ravages, endeavoured to oppose them, but in the
undertaking was unfortunately slain. And now after the
same manner that the Saxons had formerly attained to the
conquest of Britain, the Danes proceeded to the conquest
of England; for the Saxons having found out the value of
this island, and withal discovered the weakness and inability
of the Britons to oppose them, brought over their hosts by
degrees and in several companies, by which they wearied
and tired out the British armies. It is certain that nothing
conduces more to the conquest of an island than the land-
ing an army at several places and at several times, thus
distracting the counsels arid proceedings of the inhabitants;
and which, in this instance, for want of sufficient power at
sea, could not be prevented. The Danes, being informed
of the good success of Hungare and Hubba in England,
sent over another army under the command of Basreck and
Aiding, who landed in Wessex, and fought five battles with
King Ethelred and his brother Alfred, namely, at Hengle-

field,

HISTORY OF WALES. 27

field, Eastondown, Redding, Basing, and Mereton, in which
two first the English were successful, and in the three last
the Danes obtained the victory.

Soon after this Etheldred died, leaving his kingdom to
his brother Alfred,* who, as soon as he had taken the
government upon him, considered within himself what a A.D. 872.
heavy burthen he had to sustain, and therefore he began to
enquire after the wisestf and most learned men, to be directed
by them, whom he worthily entertained, making use of their
advice as well in the public government of the kingdom as
in his private studies and conferences of learning. He sent
for two very learned men out of Wales, the one called John
de Erigena, surnamed Scotus, the other Asserius, surnamed
Menevensis. De Erigena was born at Menevia, or St.
David's, and was brought up in that college ; and, for the
sake of learning, having travelled to Athens, and bestowed
there many years in the study of the Greek, Hebrew, and
Chaldaic tongues, and in the mysteries of philosophy, came
to France, where he was well received by Carolus Calvus,
or Charles the Bald, and Ludovicus Balbus, or Lewis the
Stammerer; he there translated the work of Dionysius
Areopagita, De Ccelesti Hierarchia, out of the Greek into
the Latin tongue. Being returned to Wales, he was sent
for by this King Alfred, who was then founding and erect-
ing the University of Oxford, of which Erigena became the
first professor and public reader.^ Indeed, King Alfred
bore so great a respect to learning, that he would suffer
none to bear any considerable office in his court but such as
were learned ; and withal exhorted all persons to embrace
learning, and to honour learned men. But though a love to
learning be seldom reconcileable with a warlike and military
life, King Alfred was forced to regard the discipline of war,
so as to defend his kingdom against the increasing power of
the Danes. For he was scarce settled in his throne, but
this restless and ever-troublesome people began to molest
and destroy his country, insomuch that he was of necessity
forced to attack them, which he did twice upon the south
side of the river Thames, in which engagements he slew of
the Danes one king and nine earls, together with an innu-
merable multitude of inferior soldiers. About the same
time Gwgan ap Meyric ap Dunwal ap Arthen ap Sitsylht,
Prince of Cardigan, died, being (as some say) unfortunately
drowned. The late victories which Alfred had obtained
over the Danes, did not so much weaken and dishearten

them,

* William Malmsbury, lib. 2, cap. 4, p. 42.
t Polydore-Vergil, lib. 5, p. 106. } Chron. of Wales, p, 33.

28 HISTORY OF WALES.

them, but that in a short time they recovered their spirits
and began again to display a threatening aspect. For as
soon as they could re-unite their scattered forces, they
attacked and destroyed the town of Alclyde, obtained pos-
session of the city of London and Reading, and over-ran
all the inland country and the whole kingdom of Mercia.
Another army of Danes at the same time proved very
successful in the North, and possessed themselves of the
country of Northumberland, which did not so much grieve
the English as it annoyed the Picts and Scots, who were
frequently beat off by these Danish troops. The next year
three of the Danish captains marched from Cambridge
towards Wareham in Dorsetshire, of which expedition King
Alfred being informed, presently detached his forces to
oppose them, and to offer them battle. The Danes were so
alarmed at this, that they immediately desired peace, and
willingly consented forthwith to depart out of the country,
and to forswear the sight of English ground : according
to which capitulation the horse that night marched for
Exeter, and the foot being shipped off, were all of them
drowned at Sandwich. The Danes having thus left Eng-
land, were not willing to return home empty, but bent their
course against Wales. They fancied that they were like to
meet with no great opposition from the Welsh, and therefore
could carve for themselves according as their fancy directed
them ; but having landed their army in Anglesey, they
quickly experienced the contrary ; Prince Roderic opposing
them, gave them two battles, one at a place called Bengole,
A.D. 873. and the other at Menegid, in Anglesey. At the same time,
another army of Danes, under the command of Halden and
Hungare, landed in South Wales, over-ran the whole
country, destroying all before them, neither sparing churches
nor religious houses.* But they received their due reward
at the hands of the West Saxons, who, meeting with them
on the coasts of Devonshire, slew both Halden and Hungare,
with 1200 of their men. The same year Einion, Bishop of
St. David's, died, and was the following year succeeded by
Hubert, who was installed in his place.

A. D. 876. Th.e English, being rid of their powerful and ever restless
enemies the Danes, began now to quarrel with the Welsh.
Entering into Anglesey, with a numerous army, they fought

a

* Welsh Chron. p. 34.

About this time Roderic changed the royal residence from Caer Segont, near the
present town of Caernarvon, to Aberffraw, in Anglesey. It is strange that he should
desert a country where every mountain was a natural fortress ; and, in times of such
difficulty and danger, should make choice of a residence so exposed and defenceless.—
1 tow land's Muna Ant. p. 173.

HISTORY OF WALES. 29

a severe battle with Roderic, who, together with his brother
(or as others say his son) Gwyriad, was unhappily slain in
the field, which battle is called by the Welsh, Gwaith Duw
Sul y Mon.* ThisRoderic had issue (by his wife Angharad)
Anarawd, Cadelh, and Merfyn, the last of which, Giraldus
Cambrensis, contrary to the common and received opinion,
will have to be the eldest son of Roderic, upon whom was
bestowed the principality of North Wales; for it was
unanimously granted that Roderic was the undoubted pro-
prietor of all the Dominions of Wales; North Wales de-
scending unto him by his mother Esylht, the daughter and
sole heir of Conan Tindaethwy; South Wales by his
wife Angharad, the daughter of Meyric ap Dyfnwal ap
Arthen ap Sitsylht, King of Cardigan ; Powys by Nest, the
sister and heir of Cyngen ap Cadelh, King of Powys, his
father's mother. f These three districts Roderic apportioned
to his three sons, giving North Wales to his eldest son
Anarawd, and South Wales to Cadelh, who, shortly after
his father's death, forcibly seized upon the portion of his
brother Merfyn, upon whom Roderic had bestowed Powys-
land. Wales being thus divided between these three
princes, they were called Y Tri Tywysoc Talaethioc, or the
three crowned princes, by reason that each of them did wear
on his helmet a coronet of gold, being a broad head-band
indented upward, set and wrought with precious stones,
which in the British Tongue is called Talaeth. For each
of these princes Roderic built a royal residence : for the
Prince of Gwynedd, or North Wales, at Aberffraw; of
South Wales, at Dinefawr; for the Prince of Powys, at
Mathrafal. Roderic had issue also, besides these three,
Roderic, Meyric, Edwal or Tudwal, Gwyriad, and Gathelic.
Roderic, having divided his principality betwixt his
eldest sons, namely, Aberffraw, with the 15 cantreds there-
unto belonging, to Anarawd; Dinefawr, with its 15 can-
treds, extending from the mouth of the river Dyfi to the
mouth of the Severn, to Cadelh; and Powys, with 15
cantreds, from the mouth of the river Dee to the bridge
over the Severn at Gloucester, to Merfyn; ordained, " That
his eldest son, Anarawd,^ and his successors, should con-
tinue the payment of the ancient tribute to the Crown of
England ;§ and the other two, their heirs, and successors,
should acknowledge his sovereignty; and that upon any

foreign

* Welsh Chron. p. 35. f Rowland's Mona Ant. p. 174.

J Roderic, regarding likewise his eldest son Anarawd, as the immediate heir of the
Cynethian line, he left to him and his successors the title of JBrenhin Cymrv, Ollt or
King of all Wales.— Rowland's Mona, pp. 174, 175.

§ These tributes, according to Mr. Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, in Brit. Ant. Reviv.
pp. 39, 40, were paid in the following manner : — The Kings of North Wales were to pay

30 HISTORY OF WALES.

foreign invasion they should mutually aid and protect one
another."

He farther appointed, " That when any difference should
arise betwixt the Princes of Aberffraw and Cardigan or
Dinefawr, the three princes should meet at Bwylch-y-Pawl,*
and the Prince of Powys should be umpire : but if the
Princes of Aberffraw and Powys fell at variance, they should
meet at Dol Rhianedd, probably Morva Rhianedd, on the
bank of the River Dee, where the King of Cardigan was to
adjust the controversy. If the quarrel happened betwixt
the Princes of Powys and Cardigan, the meeting was ap-
pointed at Llys Wen upon the river Wye, and to be decided
by the Prince of Aberffraw."

And the better to frustrate any attempt of the English,
he ordained, moreover, ee That all strong holds, castles,
and citadels should be fortified and kept in repair ; that all
churches and religious houses should be re-edified and
adorned, and that in all ages the history of Britain, being
faithfully registered and transcribed, should be kept therein."

ANARAWD.

A.D. 877. 1 HE Welsh had often sorrowfully felt the unnatural
effects of inward seditions, and of being governed by several
princes, which were now about to be renewed by Roderic's
imprudent division of his dominions between his three sons.
The several principalities being united in him, it would
certainly have been the most politic means, for the preserva-
tion of the country from the inveterate fury of the English,
and for composing the inward differences which would other-
wise happen, to perpetuate .the whole government of Wales
in one prince ; it being impossible so effectually to oppose
the common enemy by separate armies, and where a different
interest interfered, as if the safety of the same country and
the honour of the prince were unanimously regarded. This
was the misfortune of the Ancient Britons when the Romans
invaded their country : domestic broils and inward dissen-
sions being sown among themselves, they could not agree to
unite their powers and jointly to oppose the common enemy ;

so

£63 to the crown of London ; the Princes of Powys four tons of flour, and the Princes
of South Wales four tons of honey, to the Sovereigns of North Wales. The royal tribute
was called Teyrnged j that paid from the Princes of South Wales and Powys to the
Sovereign of North Wales, was called Madged.

* In the present county of Montgomery.

HISTORY OF WALES. 31

so that Tacitus wisely concludes,*— Dum singuli pugnant
universi vincuntur.

There are few nations but have experienced the folly of
being rent into several portions ; and the downfal of the
Roman empire may, not without reason, be attributed to
Constantine's division of it between his sons. The Welsh
at this time soon felt the unhappiness of being in separate
states ; for Cadelh Prince of South Wales being dissatisfied
with his portion, and desirous to feed his ambition with
larger territories, seized part of his brother Merfyn's country,
and, attempting forcibly to dispossess him of his lawful
inheritance, involved the Welsh in a civil war.

The succession of the Princes of Wales proceeded in
Anarawd, the eldest son of Roderic, who began his reign
over North Wales in the year 877.* At that time Rollo, A.D.877.
with a numerous army of Normans, descended into France,
and possessed themselves of the country of Neustria, which
from them has since received the name of Normandy. The
treacherous Danes in England, also, who had retired to the
city of Exeter, violated the capitulation which they had
lately sworn to observe, and upon that account were so
warmly pressed by King Alfred, that they gladly delivered
up hostages for the performance of the articles formerly
agreed upon between them. It was not, however, their
intention to keep them long; for the next year they again
broke loose, possessed themselves of all the country upon
the north side of the Thames, and, passing the river, put
the English to flight, and made themselves masters of Chip-
penham in Wessex: but their whole army did not succeed
so well; for Alfred, meeting with a party of them, slew
their captain and took their standard, which the Danes
called RAVEN. After this, he vanquished them again at
Edendown, where, the Danes having given hostages for
their peaceable behaviour, Godrun, their commander, re-
ceived the Christian faith, and so reigned in East Angle.
This period seemed to portend a great storm upon Wales; A.D. 878.
for besides the death of Aeddan, the son of Melht, a noble-
man of the country, the articles of composition between the
English and Danes occasioned these last to join their power
with the people of Mercia to fight against the Welsh, with
whom a severe battle was fought at Conwey, wherein the
Welsh obtained a signal victory, which was called " Dial
Rodri, or the Revenge of the Death of Prince Roderic."

The reason why the Mercians were so irreconcileably en-
raged

* Rowland, p. 174.

This territory was the Venedocia of the Romans, and was by the Britons called
Gwynedh. — Humff. Lhuyd, p. 64.

32 HISTORY OF WALES.

raged against the Welsh at this time was this : After the
death of Roderic the Great, the northern Britons of Strat-
clwyd and Cumberland were much infested and weakened
by the daily incursions of the Danes, Saxons, and Scots,
insomuch that as many oi? them as would not submit their
necks to the yoke were forced to quit their country and to
seek for more quiet habitations: therefore, about the be-
ginning of Anarawd's reign, many of them came to Gwynedd,
under the conduct of one Hobert, whose distressed condi-
tion the prince commiserating, granted them all the country
betwixt Chester and Conwey to seat themselves in, in case
they could drive out the Saxons who had lately possessed
themselves of it.

The Britons having expressed their thanks to Anarawd,
presently fell to work, and necessity giving edge to their
valour, they easily dispossessed the Saxons, who were not
as yet secure in their possessions. For some time the
Welsh continued peaceably in these parts reconquered; but
Eadred, Duke of Mercia, called by the Welsh Edryd
Wallthir, not being able any longer to bear such ari igno-
minious ejection, made great preparations for the regaining
of the country. The northern Britons, however, who had
settled themselves there, having intelligence of his design,
for the better security of their cattle and other effects,
removed them beyond the river Conwey. Prince Anarawd
in the mean time was not idle, but drawing together all the
strength he could raise, encamped his army near the town of
Conwey, at a place called Cymryt, where himself and his
men having made gallant resistance against the pressing
efforts of the Saxons, obtained a very complete victory.

This battle was by some called Gwaeth Cymryt Conwey,
by reason that it was fought in the township of Cymryt, near
Conwey; but Prince Anarawd would have it called " Dial
Rodri," because he had there revenged the death of his
father Rodri.

In this battle Tudwal, Rodri's son, received a wound in
the knee, which caused him to be denominated Tudwal
Gloffever after; and for his signal service in this action his
brethren bestowed upon him Uchelogoed Gwynedd. The
Britons, pursuing their victory, chased the Saxons quite out
of Wales into Mercia, where, having burnt and destroyed
the borders, they returned home laden with rich spoils, and
so took possession of the country betwixt Chester and Con-
wey, which for a long time after they peaceably enjoyed.
Anarawd, to express his thankfulness to God for this great
victory, gave very considerable lands and possessions to ^the

collegiate

HISTORY OF WALES. 33

collegiate churches of Bangor and Clynnoc Vawr in Arfon.
After this, those Danes that lay at Fulhenham, near Lon-
don, crossed the sea to France, and passing to Paris along
the river Seine, spoiled the country thereabouts, vanquishing
the French that came against them ; but in their return
towards the sea coast they were met by the Britons of
Armorica, who slew the greatest part of them, and the rest,
confusedly endeavouring to escape to their ships, were
drowned.

It might have been supposed that the several misfortunes
the Danes sustained, first at Sandwich, then by King Alfred,
and afterwards in France, would have quite drained their
number, and utterly have rid Britain from so troublesome
an enemy ; but, like ill weeds, the more they were rooted
up, the faster they grew : the Danes were still supplied from
abroad, and if an army was vanquished here, another was
sure to come in their room. This the Welsh found to be
too true; for not long after this great defeat by the Ar-
morican Britons, the Danes, not able to venture upon these,
were resolved to revenge themselves upon their friends of
Wales ; and therefore landing in North W ales, they cruelly
harassed and destroyed the country. Nor is it matter of
surprise from whence such a wonderful number of Danes
and Normans could come ; for the kingdom of Denmark
had under it not only Denmark, which is a small country
divided by the sea into insulas and peninsulas (as that
which joins upon Saxony and Holsatia, called Cymbrica
Chersonesus, with the islands of Zealand and Finnen), but
also Norway, and the large country of Sweden, reaching to
Muscovy, and almost to the North Pole. This country
being then scarce known to the world, did, all at once as it
were, pour out a vast multitude of people, who, like a
sudden storm, unexpectedly over-ran all Europe, with a
great portion of Africa. From hence proceeded the Danes
who annoyed England, and the Normans who conquered
France, both nations being originally derived from the same
stock.

The Danes had not appeared in England for some time, A,D- 890.
and therefore they now resolved to take so sure a footing
that they could not easily be repulsed. Two hundred and
fifty sail of vessels having landed the troops they had on
board at Lymene, in Kent, hard by the great forest of
Andreslege, they built the castle of Auldre or Apledore.
At the same time Hasting, with a fleet of eighty sail, ven-
tured to the Thames mouth, and built the castle of Mydl-

ton,

34 HISTORY OF WALES.

ton, having first made an oath to King Alfred not to molest
him or any of his subjects : but having built the castle of
Beamfleet, he thought he had obtained so much strength
that there was no necessity of observing the oath he had
lately sworn to King Alfred, and therefore invaded the
country round about him ; but he soon found his mistake,
and was forced to retire to his castle, which was quickly
pulled down, and his wife and two sons taken prisoners,
who, after they had been baptized in the Christian church,
were again restored to their father. Upon this Hasting and
his Danes departed from England, and proceeded to France,
where, laying siege to the city of Limogis, and despairing
of a speedy surrender of it, he betook himself to his usual
way of dealing sinistrously, and plotted this device to win
the town : He feigned himself to be dangerously sick, and
sent to the bishop and the consul of the city, desiring
of them most earnestly that he might be admitted to the
Christian faith, and be baptized before his departure out of
this world. The bishop and consul, suspecting no deceit,
were very glad, not only to be delivered from the present
danger of being besieged, but also to win so great a person
to the congregation of Christ. Whereupon a peace being
concluded betwixt both nations, Hasting was baptized, the
bishop and consul being his godfathers : which ceremony
being ended, he was carried back by his soldiers to his
ship, in a very infirm condition, as he outwardly pretended.
About midnight he caused himself, with his arms about
him, to be laid on a bier, and commanded his soldiers to
carry their weapons with them under their coats, and so to
be ready when he should give them the word. The next
day, all things being in readiness, he was solemnly brought
by his soldiers, with great clamour and counterfeit mourn-
ing, to be interred in the chief church of the city, where the
bishop and consul, accompanied by all the most honourable
members of the town, came to honour the funeral; but
when the bishop had made himself ready to bury the body,
and all the citizens were in the church, up starts Hasting
with his sword drawn, and killing first the bishop and the
consul, afterwards fell in with his armed soldiers upon the
naked people, putting all to the sword, and sparing neither
age, sex, nor infirmity. Having ransacked the town, he
sent messengers to Charles, the French king, to mediate for
peace, which he easily obtained, together with the town of
Chartres towards the defraying of his charges.

A.D. 891. At this time Hennith ap Bledric, a baron of Wales, died ;
893. and two years after, Anarawd Prince of North Wales, with

HISTORY OF WALES. 35

a considerable number of English, marched against his
brother Cadelh, and spoiled the countries of Cardigan and
Ystradgwy.* At the same time the Danes laid siege to the
city of Exeter; and when Alfred had marched to oppose
them, they that had continued in the castle of Auldre passed
over to Essex, and built another castle at Scobrith, and
from thence marched to Budington, seated upon the Severn.
When Alfred came near to Exeter, the Danes immediately
raised the siege, and betaking themselves to their ships,
sailed towards Wales, spoiled the sea-coast thereof, and
advanced as far as Buellt.

The Danes at Budington f being informed that King
Alfred was marching against them, fled back to their castle
in Essex, so *that the king was obliged to alter his march,
and to direct his forces against Leicester, where a party of
Danes was so warmly besieged, that at length they were
reduced to such extremity as to compel them to feed upon
their horses. The season of the year for action, however,
being ended, and the severity of the weather being extreme,
Alfred was forced to raise the siege, and to wait the next
opportunity for the recovery of the town ; but before he A. D. 895.
could besiege it again the Danes had quitted it, and, toge-
ther with those in Northumberland, proceeded by the
North Sea to Meresige, an isle in Essex. The next year 896.
they entered the Thames, and built a castle twenty miles
distant from London, and presuming on its strength, they
ventured to spoil and waste the country thereabouts ; but
they paid very dear for their temerity ; for, being accident-
ally met with, they were completely overthrown, having four
of their princes slain upon the spot, and the remainder of
their forces being very glad to make their escape to the
castle. Upon this Alfred divided the river into three
streams, by which stratagem the water became so diminished
in the Thames that the Danish ships could not return back
into the sea. When the Danes perceived this, and found it
impracticable to escape in their ships, they left their wives
and children and all their effects in Essex, and so proceeded
by land to Enadbryge upon the Severn, and then passing
the river, spoiled the countries of Brecknock, Gwentland,
and Gwentlhwg. Some of them, at the same time, passed
over to France ; and another body, coasting about Devon-
shire, destroyed the maritime countries, but being met with

by
D 2

* Chronicle of Wales.

"t A village pleasantly situated on the banks of the Severn, about two miles from
Welshpool on the Salop road, now called Buttington.

36 HISTORY OF WALES.

by the English, lost six of their ships in the conflict that
took place.

A. D. 897. The following summer the kingdom of Ireland suffered
extremely by locusts, which consumed all the com and all
the grass throughout the whole country ; in consequence of
which public prayers and fasting were directed for their
destruction. These reptiles are common in Africa and
other hot regions, but are seldom seen in colder climates ;
and when they happen to travel so far, they are, as else-
where, very pestilential and destructive to the country in
which they deposit themselves.

900. This year Igmond, with a great number of Danes, landed
in Anglesey, and was met with by the Welsh at a place
called Molerain, where Merfyn* was slain; though others
call it Meilon, and, from the battle fought there, Maes Rhos
Meilon. The same year King Alfred died, who directed
the translation of the ancient laws of Dyfhwal Moelmut,
King of Britain, and the laws of Queen Marsia, out of
British into English, and called it Marsian law, which was
afterwards called West Saxon law, and observed in part of
Mercia, with all the countries south of Thames ; the other
part of the country having another law called Dane Lex ;
both of which remained to the time of Edward the Confessor,
which latter sovereign out of these two made one law. It is
related of King Alfred that he divided the natural day into
three parts — the first he set apart for devotion and study,
the next for the affairs of the commonwealth, and the third
for his own rest and refreshment.

Alfred being dead, Edward, his eldest son, took upon
him the crown, which so displeased the ambitious spirit of
his brother Adelwulph, that he immediately raised a cruel
war against him, and proceeding to Northumberland, stirred
up the Danes against his brother Edward. The Danes were
glad of the opportunity, which afforded a plausible pretence
for rendering themselves masters of the whole island ; and
therefore Adelwulph was declared king, as well of the
Angles as of the Danes, who by this time were grown to be,
as it were, one people. Marching then proudly with a very
considerable army at his heels, Adelwulph subdued the
East Saxons, spoiled the country of Mercia, and passing
over the Thames at Crickland, destroyed Brythend, and
returned home with very great booty. At the same time
Euneth was slain in Arwystly. Edward being informed of
his brother's retreat, pursued him eagerly, and, missing
him, over-ran and destroyed all the country betwixt Ouse

and

* Prince of Powys.

HISTORY OF WALES. 37

and the Dike of St. Edmund, and then returned home with
his whole army, excepting the Kentish men, who being too
greedy of plunder, rashly tarried behind. The Danes per-
ceiving the body of the army to be returned, and that a
small party still continued to ravage the country, attacked
the Kentish men, slew a great number of them, and put the
rest to a shameful flight. Nor were the Danes only power-
ful in England, but they molested and grew prevalent in
Ireland : for this year they entered that kingdom, slew A. D. 905.
Carmot, king and bishop of all Ireland, a religious and
virtuous person, the son of Gukeman ; and Kyrnalt, the son
of Murgan King of Lagines. The next year died Asser, 906.
Archbishop of St. David's, uncle to the famous and learned
Asser, surhamed Menevensis ; who, being chancellor to his
uncle, the archbishop, was sent for by King Alfred to
instruct his children, whose life he afterwards wrote, and
was made bishop of Shireburn.

Edward, to force his brother from his country, and to
revenge the death of the Kentishmen, dispatched an army
to Northumberland, which having destroyed the country
returned home : upon which the Danes, as a return for this
inroad, destroyed a great part of Mercia : but within a short
time after, Edward, having raised a very considerable army,
gave the Danes battle, overthrew them, and slew their kings
Alden and Edelwulph, with a great number of their nobles.
This added much to his dominions, which were the more
increased and strengthened by the addition of the cities of
London and Oxford ; which, upon the death of Edelred
Duke of Mercia, Edward took into his own hands, permit-
ting his widow Elfleda to enjoy the rest of Edelred's
dukedom. Shortly after, Cadelh Prince of South Wales
died, leaving three sons-~-Howel I)ha,* or the Good (who 907.
suceeded his father), Meyric, and Clydawc. King Edward
having obtained so signal a victory over the Danes, and
rendered his kingdom for some time quiet, began to build
places of strength, which might be serviceable against a
future occasion. He built a castle at Hertford, betwixt the
rivers Benefic, Minier, and Lige; he also established the
borough of Wytham in Essex ; and continued some time in
Wealdyne, to keep those countries in awe. In spite, how-
ever, of all this precaution, the Danes of Leycester and
Hampton began the following year to be very troublesome,

slew

* Howel Dha, the Welsh Justinian, was, according to the Triades, ranked with Pry (lain
and Dyfnwal under the appellation of the three good princes of Britain. — In the Triades,
Anarawd and his brothers have the appellation of the th.ree diademed princes; they were
also called the three bandlet-weAring kings of the Isle of Britain, and the three bandlet-
wearing princes.

38 HISTORY OF WALES.

slew a great number of English at Hotchnorton, and in their
return homeward destroyed the country about Oxford.
About the same time a considerable fleet from Tydwike,
under the command of Uther and Ranald, sailed by the
western sea to Wales, and destroyed St. David's ; at which
place was fought the battle of Dinarth, where Mayloc, the
son of Peredur Gam, was slain. After this they entered
A.D. 911. Herefordshire, where, in another encounter, Rahald was
slain, and the remains of his troops were compelled to swear
they would quit the king's land, and never return any more
to England. King Edward, to prevent any future disturb-
ance from such open invaders, caused a strong army to be
quartered upon the south side of Severn ; but the Danes,
notwithstanding all his efforts, entered twice into his coun-
try, once at Werd, and then at Portogan, but were each
time overthrown by the English. On their departure they
proceeded to the Isle of Stepen, whence they were forced
by hunger to sail to South Wales, intending to make a
considerable prey of that country ; but failing of their aim,
they were constrained to make the best of their way for
Ireland. The next year a party of Danes fought a very
severe battle with the Kentish men at Holm, but which
party obtained the victory is not certainly known. About
913. the same time, Anarawd Prince of North Wales died,
leaving two sons, Edwal Foel and Elis, and some say a
third, named Meyric.

EDWAL FOEL *

913. AFTER the death of Anarawd, his eldest son, Edwal
Foel, took upon him the government of North Wales,
Howel Dha holding the principality of South Wales and
Powys. At this time a great comet appeared in the hea-
vens. The same year the city of Chester, which had been
destroyed by the Danes, was, by the procurement of Elfleda,
new built and repaired, as the ancient records of that city
testify. This in the ancient copy is called Leycester, by an
easy mistake for Legecestria or Chester, called by the
Romans Legionum Cestria. The next summer the men of
Dublin laid waste the Isle of Anglesey,f and soon after
Clydawc, the son of Cadelh, was unnaturally slain by his

brother

* He married the daughter of his uncle Mervyn, the late Prince of Powys.— Brit. Ant.
Revived, hy Mr. R. Vaughan, of Hengwrt, f. 4.

f Welsh Chron. pp. 45-47.

HISTORY OF WALES. 39

brother Meyric, about the same time that the Danes were
completely overthrown by the English at Tottenhale. But
Elfleda did not long survive the rebuilding of the city of
Chester. She was a woman of singular virtues, and one that
greatly strengthened the kingdom of Mercia by building
towns and castles against the incursions of the Danes ; as
Strengat and Bruge, by the forest of Morph, Tarn worth,
Stafford, Edelburgh, Cherenburgh, Wadeburgh, and Run-
cofe; after which she entered with her whole army into
Wales, won Brecknock, and took the queen with thirty-three
of her attendants prisoners ; which affair in Welsh is called
" Gwaith y Ddinas Newydd," or the Battle of the New
City. From thence she marched for Derby, which she
took from the Danes, losing, however, four of her chief
commanders in the action.

The occasion of these two expeditions, according to some,
was this : Huganus, Lord of West Wales, perceiving King
Edward to be wholly engaged by the Danish war, gathered
an army of Britons, and entering England, destroyed the
king's country. Upon the news of this reaching Elfleda,
she came to Wales with a great army, fought with the
Welsh at Brecknock, and putting Huganus to flight, took
his wife and some of his men prisoners, whom she carried
with her to Mercia. Huganus being thus defeated, fled to
Derby, and being there kindly received, joined himself with
the king's enemies, the Danes. Elfleda being informed of
that, followed him with her army ; but in storming the
gates of the town, had four of her best officers killed by
Huganus. But Gwyane, Lord of the Isle of Ely, her
steward, setting fire to the gates, furiously attacked the
Britons and entered the town ; upon which Huganus, per-
ceiving himself over-matched, chose rather to fall by the
sword than cowardly to yield himself to a woman. The
next year Elfleda laid siege to the city of Leicester, which
was quickly surrendered, and the Danes therein completely
subdued. The fame of these several actions being noised
abroad, her neighbours became fearful and timorous ; and
the Yorkshiremen voluntarily did her homage, and proffered
their service. She died at Tamwortii, after eight years'
rule over Mercia, and lies buried at Gloucester, by St.
Peter's.

After the death of Elfleda, King Edward most ungratefully
disinherited her daughter, Alfwyen, and entering into Mer-
cia, took all the province into his own hands, upon pretence
that she, without his knowledge (whom her mother had
appointed her guardian), had privily promised and con-
tracted

40 HISTORY OF WALES.

traded marriage with Raynald King of the Danes. This
unjust and unnatural action of King Edward's possibly
brought upon him those great troubles which afterwards
ensued. For Leofred, a Dane, and Gruffydh ap Madoc,
brother-in-law to the Prince of West Wales, came from
Ireland with a great army to Snowdon, and intending to
bring all Wales and the marches thereof to their subjection,
over-ran and subdued all the country to Chester before King
Edward was informed of their arrival : whereat being much
offended, and unwilling to call upon his subjects for aid, he
vowed that himself and his sons, with their own followers
only, would be revenged upon Leofred and Gruffydh ; and
thereupon marching to Chester, took the city from them.
Then he separated his army into two divisions, whereof he
and his son Athelstane led the first, Edmund and Edred
the second, and followed the enemy so close, that he over-
took them at the forest of Walewode (now Sherwode),
where Leofred and Gruffydh turned upon them so fiercely
that the king at first was in some danger ; until Athelstane
stepped in and wounded the Dane in the arm so severely,
that being no longer able to hold his spear, he was taken
prisoner, and committed to the custody of Athelstane. In
the mean time, Edmund and Edred, encountering with
Gruffydh, slew him, and brought his head to their father ;
and Leofred's head being likewise cut off, they were both
set up in the city of Chester ; and then Edward, together
with his sons, triumphantly returned home. King Edward,
A.D. 924, having built Glademutham, soon afterwards died at Faran-
don, and his son Alfred expired at the same time at Oxford,
and they were both buried at Winchester.

Edward being dead, his illegitimate son Athelstane, who
had given evidence of great talents, was advanced to the
throne; being the worthiest prince of the Saxon blood that
ever reigned. He overcame Cudfry d, father of Raynald, King
of the Danes, at York, and the country being invaded by
Hawlaf, King of Ireland, who with all the power of the Scots
and Danes marched against him, Athelstane gave him battle
at Brimestbury, and obtained a signal victory, KingHawlaf,
together with the King of the Scots, and five Kings of the
Danes and Normans, being slain upon the spot ; so that the
whole country of England and Scotland became subject to
him, a degree of power which none of his predecessors had
attempted to possess.

S33. Sometime after, Owen, the son of Gruffydh, was slain by
the men of Cardigan: and then Athelstane, entering with
his army into Wales, forced the princes thereof to consent

tc

HISTORY OF WALES. 41

to pay a yearly tribute of £20 in gold, £300 in silver,
200* head of cattle; which, however, was not observed, as
appears by the laws of Howel Dha, wherein it is appointed,
that the Prince of Abertfraw should pay no more to the
King of London than £66 tribute; and that the Princes of
Dinefawr and Powys should pay the like sum to the Prince
of Aberffraw. King Athelstane was not less terrible abroad,
than he was reverenced at home, the Kings of France and
Norway sending him very great and costly presents, to
obtain his favour and to ensure his good-will.

This year, Euneth, the son of Clydawc, and Meyric, the A.D. 936.
son of Cadelh, died. At the same time, King Athelstane
removed the Britons who lived at Exeter and the neigh-
bouring country into Cornwall, bounding them by the river
Cambria (now Tamar), as the Britons of Wales with the 939.
Wye. Not long after, the noble Prince Athelstane died, to
the great and inexpressible sorrow of all his subjects, and
was buried at Malmesbury. He was succeeded by his
brother Edmund, not inferior to him in courage, and pre-
ferable by right of nativity, being born in wedlock. In the
first year of his reign, he gave a very considerable blow to
the Danes, took from them the towns of Leicester, Derby,
Stafford, Lincoln, and Nottingham; on which Aulate,
King of the Danes, finding it impracticable to withstand
the force of King Edmund, desired peace, and withal to be
initiated into the Christian Faith ; this was granted, and all
the Danes received baptism, King Edmund standing god-
father at the font: after which, both parties concluded
peace, and Edmund honourably returned to West Saxony.

The same year died Abloic, chief King of Ireland : and
the year following, Cadelh, the son of Arthual, a nobleman
of Wales, was, for reasons not known, imprisoned by the
English. To revenge this indignity, Edwal Foel and
his brother Elis gathered their forces together and fought
against the English and Danes, but were both unhappily
slain. f

This Edwal Foel had six sons,T— Meyric, levaf, lago,
Conan, Edwal Fychan, and Roderic: and his brother Elis
had issue Conan, and a daughter named Trawst,J the
mother of Conan ap Sitsylht, Gruffydh ap Sitsylht, and
Blethyn ap Confyn, which two last were afterwards Princes
of Wales. HOWEL

* According to Warrington's History of Wales (vol. i. f. 235), two thousand five
hnndred head of cattle. — See Brompton's Chrou. p. 838, with respect to the tribute, with
the difference only of doubling the number of cattle ; Stowe's Chron. p. 82 ; Welsh Chron.
p. 50 3 Grafton's Chron. p. 149, published Ann. 15.69.

t Welsh Chron. 51.
I Welsh Chron. p. 51— British Antiq. Revived by Vaughan of Hengwrt, p. 14.

42 HISTORY OF WALES.

HOWEL DHA.

A.D. 940. OWEL DHA had been for a considerable time Prince
of South Wales and Powys, which government he had so
justly and discreetly conducted, that upon the death of
Edwal Foel he was preferred to the entire Principality of
Wales, notwithstanding Edwal had left behind him several
sons, who at first murmured at and resented the election of
Howel Dha. The first thing he did was to enact whole-
some laws for the benefit of his country, which laws were
in force in Wales until the time of Edward I. when the
Welsh received the laws of England, yet not so generally,
but that in some places these continued long after, and are
still to be read in the Welsh and Latin tongues : for Howel
Dha, perceiving the laws and customs of his country to have
given rise to great abuse, sent for the Archbishop of Mene-
via, with the rest of the bishops and chief clergy, to the
number of one hundred and forty, and all the barons and
nobles of Wales, and ordered that six of the wisest and most
esteemed persons in every commote should be cited before
him, at his palace, called y Ty Gwyn ar Taf,* or the White
House upon the river Taf. Thither coming himself, he
remained with his nobles, prelates, and subjects for all the
Lent, using prayers and fasting, and imploring the assistance
and direction of God's Holy Spirit, that he might reform
the laws and customs of the country of Wales, to the ho-
nour of God and the peaceable government of his subjects.
Towards the end of Lent he chose out of that assembly
twelve of the wisest and gravest, and persons of the greatest
experience, to whom he added Blegored,f a man of singular
learning, and one eminently versed in the laws. To these
he gave commission to examine the ancient laws and customs
of Wales, and to collect out of them what was requisite
towards the government of the country; accordingly they
retained those that were wholesome and profitable, ex-
pounded those that were doubtful and ambiguous, and
abrogated such as were superfluous or injurious classes.ij:
The laws thus framed were distinguished into three classes :
the first concerned the order and regulation of the king's

household

* Belonging to King Howel. — Welsh CLron. p. 53.

f Blegored or Blegwryd was Chancellor of Llandaff, and brother of Morgan, King
of Morganwg, and was considered the greatest scholar of his time in Wales.

J The system was formed on the basis of the ancient national laws, said to have been
originally framed by Moelmutius, who reigned in Britain 441 years before Christ. —
Holinshead, p. 177.

HISTORY OF WALES. 43

household and court ; the second the affairs of the country
and commonwealth; and the last had regard to special
customs belonging to particular persons and places; — all
which being publicly proclaimed and generally allowed,
Prince Howel ordered three copies to be written; one for
his own use, another to be laid up at his palace of Aber-
ffraw, and the third at Dinefawr; so that the three pro-
vinces of Wales might have easy recourse to either of them,
when occasion required: and for the better observation of
these laws he caused the Archbishop of St. David to
denounce sentence of excommunication against all such of
his subjects as would not obey the same.

Within a short time after, Howel, to omit nothing that
might give countenance or authority to these laws, accom-
panied by Lambert, Archbishop of St. David, Mordaf,
Bishop of Bangor, and Chebur of St. Asaph, and thirteen
of the most prudent and learned persons in Wales, took a
journey to Rome, where the said laws being recited before
the Pope, were by his Holiness ratified and confirmed:
after which, Howel, with all his retinue, returned home to
his country.*

The particulars of these laws are too numerous to be
here inserted ;f but it may be observed, that all matters of
inheritance of land were determined and adjudged by the
prince in person ; or, if sick, by his special deputy ; and
that upon view of the same land, citing together the free-
holders of that place, two elders of his council, the chief
justice always attending in the court, the ordinary judge of
the country where the land lay, and the priest. The method
of their proceeding was in this manner:

The prince sat in his judicial seat above the rest of the
court, with an elder on each hand, next to whom the free-
holders on both sides, who upon that account were probably
called Uchelwyr. Below the prince, at a certain distance,
sat the chief justice, having the priest on his right hand
and the ordinary judge of the country concerned upon the
left. The court being thus formed, the plaintiff with his
advocate, champion, and Rhingylh or sergeant, stood on
the left side of the court, as did the defendant in like man-
ner on the right : and lastly, the witnesses on both sides
appeared, and stood at the lower end of the hall, directly
opposite to the chief justice, to testify the best of their
knowledge in the matter in debate. After taking the
depositions of the witnesses, and a full pleading of the

cause

* Welsh Chron. p. 54
f Vide Topographical Notices in vol. 2 of this work.

44 HISTORY OF WALES.

cause in open court, upon notice given by the sergeant, the
chief justice, the priest, and the ordinary judge, withdrew
themselves for a while, to consult of the matter ; and then,
secundum allegata et probata, brought in their verdict.
Whereupon the prince, after consultation had with the
elders that sat next him, gave definite sentence ; excepting
the cause was so obscure and intricate that the justice of it
could not be made apparent, and then the two champions
put an end to the controversy by combat.

Whilst Howel Dha was thus regulating the customs, and
meliorating the laws and constitutions of Wales, Aulafe
and Reginald, Kings of the Danes, forcibly entered the
country of King Edmund, who being annoyed by their
incessant hostility, gathered his forces together, and (as
some say), by the help of Lhewelyn ap Sitsylht, who was
afterwards Prince of Wales, followed them to North-
umberland, and having overcome them in a pitched battle,
utterly drove them out of his kingdom, and remained a
whole year in those parts to regulate and bring that country
to quiet subjection : but finding it impracticable to reduce
the inhabitants of Cumberland to any peaceable condition,
he spoiled and wasted the country, and gave it up to
Malcolm King of Scotland, upon condition that he should
send him succours in his wars whenever demanded of him.
A.D. 942. In the mean time the Welsh had but little occasion to
rejoice ; Hubert Bishop of St. David, Marclois Bishop of
944. Bangor, and Ussa the son of Lhafyr, died : and shortly after,
the English entering into Wales with a very strong army,
put the inhabitants into a great consternation; but being
satisfied with the destruction and spoil of Strat Clwyd, they
returned home without doing any more mischief. At the
same time Conan the son of Elis narrowly escaped being
treacherously put to death by poison; and Evei'us Bishop
of St. David died. The next year Edmund King of Eng-
land was unhappily slain upon St. Augustine's day ; but the
manner of his death is variously stated ; some say, that
discovering a noted thief, who was outlawed, sitting among
his guests, being transported with indignation against so
daring a villain, he ran upon him very furiously : the out-
law expecting nothing less than death, determined to die
revenged, and therefore with a short dagger gave the king a
mortal wound in the breast. Others report, that as the
king would have rescued a servant of his from an officer that
had arrested him, he was unwittingly and unhappily slain
by the same. However his death happened, he lies buried
at Glastonbury, and his brother Edrcd was crowned King

of

HISTORY OF WALES. 45

of England, who, as soon as he had entered upon his
government, made an expedition against Scotland and
Northumberland, which being subdued, he received fealty
and homage (by oath) of the Scots and Northumbrians;
an undertaking that they did not long observe. In a short
time, Howel Dha, after a long and peaceable reign over A. D. 948.
Wales, died, much lamented by all his subjects, being a
prince of a religious and virtuous inclination, and one that
ever regarded the welfare and prosperity of his people.
He left issue, — Owen, Run, Roderic, and Edwyn, betwixt
whom and the sons of Edwal Foel,* late Prince of North
Wales, great wars and commotions subsequently arose as to
the chief rule and government of Wales.

The sons of Howel Dha, as some writers record, were
these, viz. Owen who did not long survive his father,
Eineon, Meredyth, Dyfnwal, and Rodri, the two last of
whom, as is believed, were slain in the battle fought near
Lhanrwst in the year 952, by the sons of Edwal Foel ; Run,
Lord of Cardigan, who was slain before the death of his
father; Conan y Cwn, who possessed Anglesey; Edwin,
who was also slain, as is supposed, in the beforementioned
battle. There was also another battle fought betwixt
Howel and Conan ap Edwal Foel for the Isle of Anglesey,
wherein Conan fell ; and Gruffydh his son renewing the war,
was likewise overcome ; and so Cyngar, a powerful person,
being driven out of the island, Howel enjoyed quiet posses-
sion thereof, and of the rest of Gwynedh. It is conjectured
that this Howel Dha was chosen governor of Wales, during
the minority of his uncle Anarawd's sons, who, at the death
of their father, were too young to manage the principality;
which he kept till his return from Rome, at which time,
Edwal Foel being come of age, he resigned to him the
kingdom of Gwynedh or North Wales, together with the
sovereignty of all Wales. Before which time Howel is
styled Brenhin Cymry oil, that is, King of all Wales, as is
seen in the preface to that body of laws compiled by him.

IEVAF AND IAGO,

THE SONS OF EDWAL FOEL.

AFTER the death of Howel Dha, his sons divided
betwixt them the principalities of South Wales and
Powys; laying no claim to North Wales, though their
father had been a general Prince of all Wales. But levaf

* Welsh Chron. p. 58.

46 HISTORY OF WALES.

and lago, the sons of Edwal Foel, having put by their elder
brother Meyric,* as a person incapable of government, and
being dissatisfied with the rule of North Wales only,
imagined that the principality of all Wales was their right,
as descending from the elder house ; which the sons of
Howel Dha denied them. Indeed, they had been wrong-
fully kept out of the government of North Wales during the
reign of Howel ; in whose time the recovery of their own
was impracticable, by reason that, for his moderation and
other good qualities, he had attracted to himself the uni-
versal love of all the Welsh. But now, he being gone, they
were resolved to revenge the injury received from him upon
his sons : and upon a small pretence, they endeavoured to
reduce the whole country of Wales to their own subjection,
levaf and lago were indeed descended from the elder
branch ; but since Roderic the Great conferred the prin-
cipality of South Wales upon his younger son Cadelh, the
father of Howel Dha, it was but just his sons should enjoy
what had legally descended to them from their father:
ambition, however, seldom gives place to equity ; and there-
fore, right or wrong, levaf and lago would have a contest
for South Wales, which they entered with a great army ;
and being opposed, they obtained a victory over Owen and
his brethren the sons of Howel, at the hills of Carno.f
A.D. 950. The next year the two brothers entered twice into South
Wales, destroyed and wasted Dyfet, and slew Dwnwalhon

951. Lord of the country : shortly after which, Roderic, the third

952. son of Howel Dha, died. His brethren perceiving the
folly of standing only upon the defensive, mustered all their
forces together, and entering North W ales, marched as far
as Lhanrwst upon the river Conwy; where levaf and
lago met them. A very sanguinary battle ensued upon this,
and a great number were slain on both sides, among whom
were Anarawd the son of Gwyriad, the son of Roderic the
Great ; and Edwyn the son of Howel Dha. But victory
favoured the brothers levaf and lago ; so that the Princes
of South Wales were obliged to retire to Cardiganshire,
whither they were warmly pursued; and that country was

953. severely harassed by fire and sword.J The next year
Merfyn was unhappily drowned ; and shortly after Congelach
King of Ireland was slain.

The Scots and Northumbrians having lately sworn
allegiance to King Edred, he had scarcely returned to his
own country, before Aulafe, with a great army, landed in

North-

* Welsh Chron. pp. 59 and 60. f Welsh Chron. pp. 59 and 60.

t Welsh Chron. pp. 60 and 61.

HISTORY OF WALES. 47

Northumberland, and was with much rejoicing received by
the inhabitants. Before, however, he could secure himself
in the government, he was ignominiously banished the
country ; and the Northumbrians elected one Hircius, the
son of Harold, for their king. But to shew the inconstancy
of an unsettled multitude, they soon grew weary of Hircius,
and after a period of three years expelled him, and volun-
tarily submitted themselves to Edred, who, after he had
reigned eight years, died, and was buried at Winchester.
To him succeeded Edwin the son of Edmund, a man so
immoderately given to the gratification of his passions that
he forcibly married another man's wife; for which, and
other irregularities, his subjects, after four years' reign, set
up his brother Edgar, who was crowned in his stead ; which
so much grieved Edwin, that he soon ended his days. The
summer, that same year, proved so extremely hot, that it A. D. 958.
caused a dreadful plague in the following spring, which
swept away a great number of people ; before which, Gwgan
the son of Gwyriad the son of Roderic died. At this time,
levaf and lago forcibly managed the government of all
Wales, and acted according to their own pleasure, no one
daring to confront or resist them. But notwithstanding all
their power, the sons of Abloic King of Ireland, ventured
to land in Anglesey ; and having burnt Holyhead, wasted
the country of Lhyn. The sons of Edwyn the son of
Colhoyn, also wasted and ravaged all the country to Towyn,
where they were intercepted and slain. About the same 9<H-
time died Meyric the son of Cadfan, Rytherch bishop of
St. David's, and Cadwalhon ap Owen. Not long after, the
country of North Wales was cruelly wasted by the army of 965.
Edgar King of* England ; the occasion of which invasion
was the non-payment of the tribute that the king of
Aberffraw, by the laws of Howel Dha, was obliged to pay
to the King of London. At length a peace was concluded
upon condition that the Prince of North Wales, instead of
money, should pay to the King of England the tribute of
300 wolves yearly,* which animal was then very pernicious
and destructive to England and Wales. This tribute being
duly performed for two years, the third year there were
none to be found in any part of the Island ; so that after-
wards the Prince of North Wales became exempt from
paying any acknowledgment to the King of England.f The
terror apprehended from the English, being by these means 966.

vanished;

* Stowe's Chron. p. 83, printed at London, A. D. 1614.— Fabian's Chron. p. 249.
f William Malmesbury, p. 59; Fabian, p. 240; Stowe's Chron. p. 83; Welsh
Chron. p. 62 (excepting only the number).

48 HISTORY OF WALES.

vanished, there threatened another cloud from Ireland;
for the Irish being animated by their late expedition,
landed again in Anglesey; and having slain Roderic the
A.D. 967. son of Edwal Foel, they destroyed Aberffraw. When
this danger was over, levaf and lago, who had jointly and
amicably, till now, managed the government of Wales from
the death of Howel Dha, began to quarrel and disagree
between themselves; and lago having forcibly laid hands

968. on his brother levaf, consigned him to perpetual imprison-
ment. These animosities between the two brothers gave
occasion and opportunity to Owen prince of South Wales
to aggrandize himself, by taking possession of the country

969. of Gwyr.* And to augment the miseries of the Welsh at
this time, Mactus the son of Harold, with an army of
Danes, landed in the isle of Anglesey, and spoiled Penmon.f
King Edgar was so indulgent to the Danes, that he per-
mitted them to inhabit through all England ; insomuch that
at length they became as numerous and as powerful as the
English themselves; and they gave way to such lewd
courses of debauchery and drunkenness, that very great
mischiefs ensued thereupon. The king, to reform this im-
moderate sottishness, enacted a law, that every one should
drink by measure, and a mark was stamped upon every

970. vessel, to denote how far it should be filled. Harold having
taken Penmon, subjected to himself the whole isle of Angle-
sey, which however he did not keep long, being forced to
quit the same, and to return home ; as did the fleet of king
Alfred, which he had sent to subdue Caerlheon upon Use ;

971. and now being rid of the English and Danes, the Welsh

972. began to raise commotions among themselves. levaf con-
tinued still in prison, and to rescue him, his son Howel
raised a body of forces, and marched against his uncle lago,
who being vanquished in fight, was forced to quit the
country. Howel having obtained the victory, took his
eldest uncle, Meyric, the son of Edwal, prisoner, and having
directed both his eyes to be put out he was placed in prison,
where in a woful condition he soon afterwards died, leaving
two sons, Edwal and lonafal ; the first of which lived to be
Prince of Wales, and to revenge upon the posterity of
Howel, the unnatural barbarity exercised towards his father.
But though Howel delivered his father from his long and
tedious imprisonment,:}: yet he did not think fit to restore
him to his principality ; for whether by age or infirmity he
was incapable, or otherwise, Howel took upon him the sole

government

* Gwyr, in Glamorganshire. — Welsh Chron. p 62. t Ibid.

J Welsh Chron. pp. 62, 65.

HISTORY OF WALES. 49

government of Wales, which he kept and maintained during
his lifetime,, but afterwards it descended to his brethren;
for levaf had issue, besides this Howel, Meyric, levaf, and
Cadvvalhan ; all three men of great repute and esteem.

About this time died Morgan Hen,* in his younger days
called Morgan Mawr, being an hundred years old, having
lived fifty years after the death of his vvife Elen, daughter of
Roderic the Great, by whom he had one son called Owen.
Morgan was a valiant and a victorious prince, and well
beloved of his subjects ; but sometime before his death,
Owen, the son of Prince Howel Dha, laid claim to Ystradwy
and Ewy (called the two Sleeves of Gwent Uwchcoed),
being the right by inheritance of Morgan, and seized upon
them to his own use. The matter, however, through the
mediation of the clergy and nobility, being by both parties
referred to the decision of Edgar King of England, it was
by him adjudged, that the said lands did of right belong to
Morgan, and to the diocese of Lhandaff; and that Owen
ap Howel Dha had wrongfully possessed himself of them.
The charter of the said award was made before the arch-
bishops, bishops, earls, and barons of England and Wales,
as may be seen at Lhandaff, in an old manuscript called
y Owtta Cyfarwydd o Forgannwg. And there is some-
what to the same purport in the old book of Lhandaff; only
the mistake in both is, that they make Howel Dhaf the
intruder into the said lands, who had been dead at least
twenty years before king Edgar began his reign.

HOWEL

* Also called Morgan Mwynvawr, or Morgan the Courteous. He was of the stock
of one of the royal tribes of Wales. He is ranked in the Triades* with Rhun and Arthur
as the three blood-stained warriors of Britain ; and is distinguished with Gwaethvoed and
Elystan under the appellation of the three band-wearing princes, because they wore
bands as insignia of state, instead of crowns, like the primitive Christians.

" The book of Triades, in British Trioedd Ynys Prydain, or " Threes of the Island of Britain," seems
to have been written about the year 650, and some parts of it collected out of the most ancient monu-
ments in the kingdom. The Triades have been always quoted by our British poets from age to age. It
is called by some writers, and by the translator of Camden, " The Book of Triplicities." The Britons,
as well as other nations of old, had a particular veneration for odd numbers, and especially for that of
Three. Their most ancient poetry consists of three-lined stanzas, called JEnglyn Milwr, " The Warrior's
Verse." The most remote history is divided into sections ; being combinations of some three similar
events. All men of note, whether famous or infamous, were classed together by threes -. virtues and vices
were tripled together in the same manner-, and the Druids conveyed their instructions in moral and
natural philosophy to their people in sentences of three parts. .--Royal Tribes.

f Saxon Laws, published by Wilkins, p. 125, from Lord Littleton's Life, Henry IT.
vol. 2, p. 89.— Tt appears, however, that during the reign of Howel Dha, this prince had
dispossessed Morgan Hen, the Lord of Glamorgan, of certain districts in that country,
and that this dispute was tried by Edgar King of England in a full court of prelates and
nobility of England and Wales, vhen the lands in dispute were adjudged to Morgan Hen
and his heirs.— Spelman's Concilia, p. 414.

50 HISTORY OF WALES.

HOWEL AP IEVAF.

A. D. 973. - OWEL, after he had expelled his uncle lago, and
forced him to quit his own dominions, took upon himself
the government of Wales,* in right of his father, who,
though alive, yet by reason of his years, declined it. About
the same time Dwnwalhon, Prince of Stradelwyd, took his
journey for Rome ; and Edwalhon, son of Owen Prince of
South Wales, died. But the English received a greater
blow by the death of King Edgar, who was a prince of
excellent qualities, both warlike and religious, and one that
founded several monasteries and religious houses, and par-
ticularly at Bangor : for lago ap Edwal having fled to King
Edgar, prevailed so far with him, that he brought an army
into North Wales to restore him to his right. Being ad-
vanced as far as Bangor, he was honourably received by
Howel, who, at his request, was contented his uncle lago
should have a share in the government, as he had in his
father levafs time. Then Edgar founded a new church at
Bangor, on the south-side of the Cathedral, which he dedi-
cated to the blessed Virgin Mary ; and confirmed the
ancient liberties of that see, and bestowed lands and gifts
upon it ; after which, with Howel and lago in his company,
he marched towards Chester, where met him, by appoint-
ment, six other kings, viz. Kenneth King of the Scots,
Malcolm King of Cumberland, Macon King of Man, and
Dyfnwal, Sifrethus, and Ithel, three British kings. These
eight princes having done homage and sworn fealty to
him, entered with King Edgar into his barge, and rowed
him, four on each side, from his palace to the church or
monastery of St. John the Baptist, and divine service being
ended, in like state rowed him back again. f To King
Edgar succeeded his son Edward, surnamed the younger ;
who, after four years reign, was treacherously slain through
the treason of his step-mother Elfrida, to make room for
her own son Edelred, upon pretence of whose minority,
being a child of only seven years, she might have the

management

* Welsh Chron. p. 64.
f Selden's Mare Clausum,p. 1315. — BromptoiTs Chron. p. 869. — Matth. Westm.p.287.

A. D. 975.— At this period Dunwallon, Prince of the Strath-Clwyd Britons, who had
settled in North Wales, intimidated by the cruel ravages of the Danes, or influenced by
the pious spirit of the age, retired to Rome, and engaged in a religious life. On his
retreat that small state was re-united to the kingdom of North Wales.— Hamffrey Lhuyd,
p. 32.

HISTORY OF WALES. 51

management of the kingdom in her own hands. Whilst the A.D. 976.
English were in this wavering and unsettled condition,
Eineon, the son of Owen King of South Wales, the second
time entered the country of Gwyr, and, having spoiled and
wasted it, returned home again. This, though it was a very
great affront to Howel Prince of North Wales, yet he
thought it most convenient to leave unnoticed, being then
warmly engaged against the aiders and abettors of his uncle
lago ; and marching against them with a numerous army,
consisting of Welsh and English, pursued them to Lhyn
and Kelynnoc Vawr, the very extremity of Wales ;* where,
after cruelly ravaging the country and miserably harassing
the inhabitants, lago was at last taken prisoner ; but he was
generously received by Howel, who granted him the enjoy-
ment of his portion of the country peaceably for his life.
Howel did not deal so kindly with his uncle Edwal Fychan,
the son of Edwal Foel, who, for some reason not known, 979.
was slain by him. It may be, that being in a manner secure
of his uncle lago, he was apprehensive that Edwal Fychan
would put in a claim to the principality, and therefore he
judged it convenient to remove this obstacle in time, and to
send him to seek for it in another world. For nothing has
been the cause of greater injustice and inhumanity in princes
than a jealousy and apprehension of rivals and pretenders to
their government, to prevent which they often sacrifice
every thing that is just and legal, so that the person offend-
ing be removed out of the way. Though Howel had mur-
dered his uncle Edwal Fychan, he could not remove all
disputes and pretensions as to North Wales: for at that
same time that he was employed in this unnatural trans-
action, Cystenyn Dhu, or Constantino the Black, son to
lago (then prisoner to Howel), having hired an army of
Danes, under the command of Godfryd the son of Harold,
marched against his cousin Howel, and entering North
Wales, destroyed Anglesey and Lhyn ; whereupon Howel,
having drawn his forces together, fell upon them at a place
called Gwyath Hirbarth, where the Danes received a very
great overthrow, and Constantine, the son of lago, was
slain. f Another army of Danes, however, fared better .in
England : having landed at and spoiled Southampton, they
over-ran the countries of Devon and Cornwall, burnt the
town of Bodmin, whereby the cathedral church of St.
Petrokes, with the bishop's palace, were laid in ashes ; by
reason of which disaster the bishop's see was translated to

St.
c 2
* Carnarvonshire. f Welsh Chron. p. 65.

52 HISTORY OF WALES.

St. Germain's, where it continued until the uniting thereof
to Crediton. Within a while after, St. Dunstan, archbishop
of Canterbury, died, a pious and religious man, who fore-
told very great and almost insupportable calamities that the
English should endure by the cruel outrages of the Danes.
A.D. 981. Godfryd, the son of Harold, being highly chagrined at
the complete route he received of Howel in the quarrel of
Constantine, was resolved to recover his credit, and to
revenge himself of the Welsh ; and accordingly he landed
with a powerful army in West Wales, where, after he had
spoiled the land of Dyfed, with the church of St. David's,
he fought the famous battle of Llanwanoc. Harold being
forced upon this to retire and forsake the country, the fol-

982. lowing year Duke Alfred, with a considerable number of
English, came to supply his room and to conquer the
Welsh ; but he obtained as little advantage or honour as
Harold in this expedition ; for after he had laid waste and
destroyed the town of Brecknock, with some part of South
Wales, he was completely vanquished, and his army almost
totally cut off by the troops of Eineon, the son of Owen
Prince of South Wales, and Howel Prince of North Wales,

• who had joined their forces against him.* The Welsh, hav-

983. ing now quite disabled the Danes and the English, began
to adopt their old courses — to make use of their prosperity
and quietness from abroad, for quarrelling and creating
disturbances at home. The inhabitants of Gwentlandf
imagined themselves very strong and powerful, and there-
fore endeavoured to shake off their allegiance to their prince,
and to set up one of their, own making. Owen, Prince of
South Wales, to subdue the rebellious humour of these
seditious and turbulent people, sent his son Eineon to per-
suade them to obedience ; but a distracted multitude, when
broken loose, is not to be worked upon by arguments, which
Eineon fatally experienced, who was so far from persuading
them to their allegiance by fair means, that they set upon
him, and thinking they had him in their possession who was
next to succeed, put him at once to death ; and thus most
ignobly fell this worthy prince, who, in his father's time,
was the only support of his country, being an able and a
valiant commander, and one skilfully experienced in the art
and discipline of war. He had issue two sons, Edwyn and
Tewdwr Mawr, or Theodore the Great, from whose loins
several Princes of South Wales descended.J Howel Prince

of

* Welsh Chron. p. 66.

t Comprehending parts of the present counties of Monmouth and Hereford.
} Welsh Chron. p. 66.

HISTORY OF WALES. 53

of North Wales did not, however, regard this dissension
and rebellion in South Wales, and therefore took oppor-
tunity to strengthen and multiply his army, with which he
marched the next year for England, intending to revenge
the incursions and invasions of the English upon Wales, and
to destroy and waste their country ; but having entered into
England, he was presently encountered, upon which, being
resolved either to return victoriously or to die courageously,
he exerted his prowess, but in the action was slain,* leaving
no issue to succeed him in the principality, though in some
ancient genealogies he is reputed to have had a son called
Conan y Cwn,

CADWALHON AP IEVAF.

JH OWEL, the son of levaf, had for a long time enjoyed
the principality of North Wales, more by main force and
usurpation, than any right of succession he could pretend to
it : for lonafal and Edwal the sons of Meyric, the eldest
son of Edwal Foel, were living, and through their father
had been rejected as being unfit for government, yet that
was no reason to deprive them of their right. Indeed,
Howel could set up no other right or title, than that his
father levaf had been prince of North Wales before him,
and this he thought sufficient to maintain his possession
against the rightful heir, who was unable to oppose or
molest his wrongful usurpation ; but Howel being slain in
this rash expedition against the English, and leaving no
issue, his brother Cadwalhon thought he might rightfully
take upon him the government of North Wales, seeing his
father and his brother had without any molestation enjoyed
the same. However, to make his title secure, he thought
fit to remove all those who might create any dispute con-
cerning his right of succession, and to that end, deemed it
expedient to make away his cousins lonafal and Edwal the
lawful heirs ; the first of whom he put to death accordingly,
but Edwal being aware of his intention, privately made his
escape, and so prevented his wicked design. This unnatural
dealing with his cousins lonafal and Edwal cost Cadwalhon
not only his life, but the loss of his principality, and was
the utter ruin of his father's house ; for he had scarce
enjoyed his government one year, when Meredith the son of A. D. 985.

Owen

* Welsh Chron. p. 66.

54 HISTORY OF WALES.

Owen prince of South Wales entered into North Wales,
slew Cadwalhon and his brother Meyric,* the only remains
of the house of levaf, and, under the pretence of conquest,
possessed himself of the whole country. Here we may
observe and admire the wisdom of Providence, in permitting
wrong and oppression for some time to flourish and wax
great, and afterwards, by secret and hidden methods,
restoring the posterity of the right and lawful heir to the
just and pristine estate of his ancestors : for after the death
of Edwal Foel, Meyric, who by right of birth was legally
to succeed, was not only deprived of his just and rightful
inheritance, but had his eyes most inhumanly put out, and
being condemned to perpetual imprisonment, through grief
at being so barbarously treated, quickly ended his days ;
but though his brothers levaf and lago, and Howel and
Cadwalhon the sons of levaf, successively enjoyed the
principality of North Wales, yet not one died naturally or
escaped the revenge of Meyric's ejection. levaf was impri-
soned by his brother lago, and he, with his son Constantine,
by Howel the son of levaf, and afterwards Howel fell by
the hands of the English, and his brethren Cadwalhon and
Meyric were slain by Meredith ap Owen. On the other
hand, Edwal ap Meyric, who was right heir of North
Wales after the death of his brother lonafal, escaped the
snare intended by Cadwalhon ; and Meredith ap Owen
having for some time left North WTales exposed to its
enemies, because he had enough to do to preserve South
Wales, Edwal was received by the men of North Wales as
their true prince.

MEREDITH AP OWEN.

A.D.CS?. ]VjEREDITH having defeated and slain Cadwalhon and
his brother Meyric, the only seeming pretenders to the
principality of North Wales, took upon himself the rule
and government of it :f but before he was well confirmed in
his dominions, Godfryd the son of Harold a third time
entered into the isle of Anglesey, and having taken Lhyarch
the son of Owen with 2000 men prisoners, most cruelly put
out the eyes of Lhyarch, which struck such a terror into
Prince Meredith, that, with the rest of his army, he forth-
with made his escape and fled to Cardigan. This loss to

the

* Welsh Chron. p 67.

^ Meredith ruled in Fowys in right of his mother. — British Antiq. revived by Vaughan,
of Hengwrt, pp. 5, 14.

HISTORY OF WALES. 55

the Welsh was the same year seconded by another, but of
another sort ; for there happened such a great and unusual
murrain, that the principal part of the cattle of Wales
perished. Nor were the English at this time free from
adversities and troubles, for the Danes landed again in
England with several armies, and at Westport and Witest
gave two English lords, Godan and Britchwould, such a
defeat, that the king was forced to buy his peace, with the
payment of 10,000 pounds, which was termed Dane Gelt.
Within a short time after, King Edelred violated the peace
himself, and prepared a great fleet, thinking to vanquish the
Danes at sea ; but it proved otherwise, all his ships being
either destroyed or taken, together with the Admiral, Alfric
Earl of Mercia. The Danes being animated with this
victory, sailed up the mouth of the Humber, and landing in
Yorkshire, spoiled and destroyed the cities of York and
Lindsey; but in their march through Northumberland,
were routed and put to flight by Godwyn and Fridgist, two
English generals who were sent to oppose them. The same
time Anlaf King of Norway, and Swane of Denmark, with
94 gallies, sailed up the Thames and besieged London,
which the citizens so bravely defended, that the Danes at
length thought it best to raise the siege; but though they
could effect nothing against the city, yet the country was at
their mercy, and therefore leaving their ships, they landed
and wasted with fire and sword all Kent, Essex, Sussex,
Surry, and Hampshire; wherefore King Edelred, instead
of manly opposition in the field, sent ambassadors to treat
about another payment, and so the Danes being satisfied
with a great sum of money and victuals, lay quiet that winter
at Southampton. Upon this composition, Anlaf was invited
by Edelred, and royally entertained, and being dismissed
with very many rich presents, he promised upon oath to
depart the kingdom and never to molest it any more, which
condition he faithfully performed.

Whilst the English and the Danes were thus for a time A. D. 987.
at peace, levaf the son of Edwal, having spent for several
years a retired and a private life, died ;* and was quickly
followed by Owen the son of Howel Dha Prince of South
Wales.f This Owen had three sons, Eineon, who in his
father's time was slain by the rebels of Gwentland,
Lhywarch who had his eyes put out by Godfryd the son of
Harold the Dane, and Prince Meredith, who had already
conquered North Wales, and now upon his father's death
took possession also of South Wales, without any regard to

the

* Welsh Chron. p. 70. f Il"d-

56 HISTORY OF WALES.

the rights of Edwyn and Theodore the sons of Eineon his
elder brother. But upon his advancement to his new princi-
pality, he narrowly escaped no very small troubles ; for the
Danes at Hampton quickly broke the league with king
Edelred, and sailing towards the west greatly annoyed the
coasts of Cornwal and Devonshire, and at last landed in
South Wales. Having destroyed St. David's, Lhanbadarn,
Lhanrhystyd, Lhandydoch, and several other religious
places, the country was so much harassed and weakened
that Prince Meredith was forced to compound with them,
A. D. 988. and to pay a tribute of one penny for every person within
his dominions, which in Welsh was called Glwmaem, or the
tribute of the black army. Ireland also at this time received
no inconsiderable blow from the Danes, who slew Elwmaen
the son of Abloic king of the country, and so ravaged and
laid waste that kingdom, that a great number of the natives
perished by famine.

The year following, Owen the son of Dyfnwal, a man of

989. considerable note and reputation among the Welsh, was
slain, which was the only remarkable event that happened
this year; but in the next year Edwin ap Eineon, who was
right heir to the principality of South Wales, having

990. procured the aid of a great army of English and Danes
entered in great force into Meredith's country, spoiled all
the land of Cardigan, Dyfed, Gwyr, Kydwely, and St.
David's, and received hostages of the chief persons of thoee

991. countries to own him as their rightful prince. To avenge
these outrages upon Edwyn, Meredith destroyed the town
of Radnor, spoiled Glamorgan, and carried away the chief
men thereof prisoners, who on paying their ransom were set
at liberty. Whilst Wales was in this distracted condition,
and scarce any place free from hostility, Meredith and
Edwyn were happily reconciled, and the differences were
composed that had existed between them, so that the
English and Danes who came in with Edwyn, and who
expected to reap an harvest out of these civil disturbances
of the Welsh, were unexpectedly dismissed and sent home.
Soon after this agreement, Cadwalhon, the only son of
Meredith, died, which rendered the composition between
Meredith and Edwyn more firm, by reason that this latter
thought now that he should without any dispute succeed
Meredith in the principality. This, however, did not take
place, for Meredith being very much disturbed in South
Wales, had so much work upon his hands to defend that
country, that he left North Wales exposed to the common
enemy, which the Danes were quickly acquainted with, and

so

HISTORY OF WALES. 57

so landing in Anglesey, they ravaged and laid waste the
whole island. The men of North Wales finding themselves A. D. 992.
thus forsaken by Meredith, and their country in danger of
being over-run by the Danes, if not timely prevented, set
up Edwal the son of Meyric, the indisputable heir of North
Wales, though long kept from it, and owned him for their
prince.* These incessant wars and commotions in South
Wales, occasioned a great famine in the country, of which
. a considerable number of people perished. Meredith, how-
ever, who had once conquered North Wales, and for a long
time had got possession of South Wales, without any right
or title to either, was now obliged to relinquish the one, and
was scarcely able to maintain the other.

EDWAL AP MEYRIC.

JCjDWAL, after a long and tedious expectation, being 993.
now joyfully received by the men of North Wales as their
prince, endeavoured, in the first place, to defend his sub-
jects from the injuries and depredations they received from
the Danes ; and having in a measure effected that, he was
accosted by another enemy ; for Meredith being resolved to
revenge the indignity and disgrace inflicted upon him by the
men of North Wales, in depriving, him of the government
of their country, gathered together all his power, intending
to recover possession of that principality. Having advanced
as far as Lhangwm,f Edwal met him, and in open battle
routed his army; in which action Theodore or Tewdwr
Mawr, Meredith's nephew, was slain,{ leaving two sons,
Rhys and Rytherch, and a daughter named Elen. It is,
however, deemed probable that it was not Tewdwr Mawr,
but his brother Edwyn, that was slain in this battle, which
also seems rather to have been fought at Hengwm in Ar-
dudwy, in Merionethshire, than at Lhangwm, for in Hen-
gwm there are to this day certain monuments of victory to
be seen, as heaps of stones, tomb-stones, and columns,
which they call Carneddi Hengwm. Edwal returning home
triumphantly after this victory, thought he had now secured
himself in his government, and expected to enjoy his
dominions without molestation. He had, however, scarcely
recovered the fatigue of the last engagement, when Swane
the son of Harold, having lately pillaged and wasted the
Isle of Man, landed in North Wales, whom Edwal endea-
vouring
* Welsh Chron. p. 71. f Llangwm, in Denbighshire. J Welsh Chron, p. 72.

58 HISTORY OF WALES.

vouring to oppose, was slain in the encounter, leaving one
son,* called lago. Within a short time the Danes returned
again against St. David's, and destroying all before them
with fire and sword, slew Morgeney, or Urgency, bishop of
that diocese. Prince Meredith being highly concerned at
the mischiefs these barbarous people continually did to his
country, and the more, because he was not able to repel
their insolencies, died of grief and vexation, having issue an
only daughter named Angharad, who was twice married ;
first to Lhewelyn ap Sitsyhlt, and after his death to Confyn
ap Hirdref, or, as others think, to Confyn ap Gwerystan.
She had children by both husbands, which occasioned after-
wards many disturbances and civil commotions in Wales,
the issue of both marriages pretending a right of succession
to the principality of South Wales. f

AEDAN AP BLEGORAD.

Prince of North Wales, being killed in the
battle against Swane, and having no other issue than lago,
who was a minor, and too young to take upon him the
government; and Meredith, Prince of South Wales, dying
without any other issue than a daughter, caused various
quarrels and contentions among the Welsh, several, without
any colour of right, putting in their claim and pretensions to
the government. In North Wales, Conan the son of Howel,
A.D. 1003. and Aedan the son of Blegorad, were the chief aspirers to
that principality; and because they could not agree who
should be the governor, they determined to try the matter in
open field, where Conan had the misfortune to be slain;
and so Aedan was victoriously proclaimed Prince of North
Wales.* Who this Aedan was descended from, or what
colour or pretence he could lay to the principality, is matter
of great doubt, there being none of that name to be met
with in any Welsh records, excepting Blegorad who is
mentioned in the line of Howel Dha, whose estate and
quality were not sufficient to countenance any claim of his
posterity to the principality of Wales. But be that as it
may, Aedan, after his victory over Conan ap Howel, was
owned Prince by the men of North Wales, over whom he
bore rule for the space of twelve years ; though, besides his
conquest of Conan ap Howel, there is nothing recorded of
1015. him, excepting his being slain, together with his four sons,
by Lhewelyn ap Sitsylht.

While

* Welsh Chron. p. 73. t Ibid. p. 73. J Ibid. pp. 74, 83.

HISTORY OF WALES. 59

While the Welsh were in this unsettled condition, the
Scots began to grow powerful in Ireland, and having de-
stroyed the town and country of Develyn, they took Gulfath
and Ubiad, two Irish lords, prisoners, whose eyes they
inhumanly put out. The Danes also, who had lately made
their incursions into South Wales, began now to molest the
English : having landed in the west, they passed through
the counties of Somerset, Dorset, Hants, and Sussex, de-
stroying and burning all before them; and advancing with-
out any opposition as far as the river Medway, they laid
siege to Rochester, which the Kentish men endeavoured to
preserve by assembling themselves together and giving the
Danes battle, but they were vanquished in the undertaking.
King Edelred was then in Cumberland, where the Danes
were more numerously planted, which country he kept quiet
and in subjection. In the mean time another army of Danes
landed in the west, against whom the country people of
Somersetshire assembled themselves, and shewed their
readiness to attack them, but wanting a leader, were easily
put to the rout, and the Danes ruled and commanded the
country at their pleasure. The King being much harassed
by the insolence and continual depredations of the Danes,
thought convenient to strengthen himself by some powerful
affinity, and to that end sent ambassadors to Richard Duke
of Normandy, desiring his daughter Emma in marriage,
and requesting aid to repel the Danish incursions. Here
it is observable, that as the Saxons, being formerly called
over as friends and allies to the well-meaning Britons,
violently and wrongfully possessed themselves of the great-
est part of the island, so now the Normans, being invited
to aid the English against the Danes, took so great a liking
to the country, that they never gave over their design of
obtaining it till they became conquerors of the whole island.
The mischief of calling in the Normans had been foretold to
King Edelred, but he was so far concerned about the present,
calamities caused by the Danes, that he was deaf to all
considerations as to the future ; and therefore, being elated
with hopes of increase of strength by this new alliance, he
sent private letters to all cities and towns throughout his
dominions where the Danes were quartered, requiring them
all upon St. Brice's night to massacre the Danes, which was
accordingly performed with much unanimity and secrecy.
This cruel act was so far from discouraging the Danes, that
they now began to vow the eradication of the English nation,
and to revenge that unmanly massacre of their countrymen ;
to which end they landed in Devonshire, and over-running

the

60 HISTORY OF WALES.

the country with fire and sword, spared nothing that had the
least spark of life in it. The city of Exeter they razed to
the ground, and slew Hugh the Norman, whom the Queen
had recommended to the government of it. To prevent
their further incursions, Almarus Earl of Devon gathered
a great army out of Hampshire and Wiltshire and the
country thereabouts, and marched with a determined reso-
lution to oppose the Danes; but they put Almarus to flight,
and pursued him to Wilton and Salisbury, which being
ransacked and plundered, they carried the pillage thereof
triumphantly to their ships.

A. D. 1004. The next year Swane, a prince of great repute in Den-
mark, landed upon the coast of Norfolk and laid siege to
Norwich, and wasted the country thereabouts. Wolfkettel,
Duke of that country, being too weak to oppose him,
thought it most convenient to make a peace with the Dane ;
which was quickly broken, and then Swane marched pri-
vately to Thetford, and after he had spoiled and ransacked
that place, he returned with his prey to his ships. Wolf-
kettel hearing this, privately drew up his forces, and
marched against the enemy ; but being far inferior in
number, the Danes defeated him, and afterwards sailed to
their own country. Within two years after, the Danes
returned again, bringing with them their usual companions,
fire, sword, and spoliation, and landed at Sandwich ; after
they had burnt and pillaged that place, they sailed to the
Isle of Wight, where they took up their quarters till
Christmas : and then coming forth thence, they over-ran,
by several parties, the countries of Hampshire and Berk-
shire, as far as Reading, Wallingford, and Colsey ; devour-
ing, for want of other plunder, all the provisions they found
in the houses, and destroyed the same with fire and sword
at their departure. In their return they met with the army
of the West Saxons near Essington, but this consisting only
of a raw and inexperienced rabble, was easily broken
through, and the Danes passing triumphantly by the gates
of Winchester, got safe with great booty to the Isle of
Wight. King Edelred all this while lay at his manor-house
in Shropshire, much troubled and concerned at these unin-
terrupted devastations of the Danes; and the nobility of
England, willing rather to save some than lose all they
possessed, bought their peace of the Danes for the sum of
30,000 pounds. During the interval of repose thus obtained,
King Edelred, rousing his drooping spirits, ordained, that
every three hundred hides of land (one hide being as much
as one plough can sufficiently till) through his dominions

should

HISTORY OF WALES. 61

should man and fit out a ship, and every eight hides provide
a corslet and a helmet; besides which the king had no
inconsiderable navy sent him from Normandy. This fleet
when rendezvoused at Sandwich seemed very powerful in
those days, and was the greatest that had ever down to that
period rode upon the British sea. And now, when it was
thought that all things would go well with the English, of a
sudden another cloud appeared ; for one Wilnot, a noble-
man of Sussex, being banished by King Edelred, got to sea
with a small number of ships, and practised piracy along
the coasts of Britain, greatly annoying all merchants and
passengers. Brightrych, brother to the traitorous Edric A.D. 1008.
Earl of Mercia, thinking to advance his reputation by some
signal exploit, promised to bring Wilnot dead or alive before
Edelred : to which end he set forth with a considerable fleet ;
which meeting with a terrible storm, was by the tempest
driven back, and wrecked upon the shores ; so that a great
number of the ships were lost, and the rest burnt by Wilnot
and his followers. Brightrych being dismayed with this
unfortunate beginning, returned ingloriously by the Thames
back to London ; so that this great preparation against the
Danes was dashed to pieces and came to nothing.

The Danes were not ignorant of the misfortune the 1009.
English received by this storm, and without any further
enquiry, landed at Sandwich, and so passed on to Canter-
bury, which they intended to destroy, but were prevented
by the citizens paying 3000 pounds. Passing from thence,
through Kent, Sussex, and Hampshire, they came to Berk-
shire, where King Edelred at length met with them, and
determining resolutely to attack them, was by the cunning
insinuations and subtile arguments of the traitor Edric
dissuaded from fighting. The Danes being thus delivered
from the danger which they certainly expected, passed on
joyfully by the city of London, and with great booty returned
to their ships. The next year they landed again at Ipswich,
upon • Ascension Day, where Wolfkettel met them by a
spirited encounter ; but being overpowered by numbers, he
was forced to fall back and yield the victory to the Danes.
Passing from thence to Cambridge, they met with Ethelstan,
King Edelred's nephew by his sister, who with an army
endeavoured to oppose them ; but the Danes proving too
powerful, he with many other noblemen were slain ; among
whom were Duke Oswyn and the Earls Edwyn and Wol-
frike. From hence the Danes passed through Essex,
leaving no manner of cruelty and barbarity unpractised, and
returned laden with booty to their ships, which lay in the

imes.

62 HISTORY OF WALES

A.D. 1010. Thames. They could not, however, continue long in their
vessels ; and therefore sallying out, they passed by the river
side to Oxford, which they ransacked again; adding to
their prey the plunder of the counties of Buckingham,
Bedford, Hertford, and Northampton, and having accom-
plished that year's cruelties, at Christmas they returned to
their ships. Yet the prey of the country from the Trent
loll. southward did not satisfy these unmerciful barbarians; for
as soon as the season gave them leave to peep out of their
dens they laid siege to the city of Canterbury, which being
delivered up by the treachery of Almarez the Archdeacon,
was condemned to blood and ashes, and Alfege the Arch-
bishop carried prisoner to the Danish fleet, where he was
1012. cruelly put to death. The next year Swane King of Den-
mark came up the Humber and landed at Gainesborow,
whither repaired to him Uthred Earl of Northumberland
with his people, the inhabitants of Lindsey, with all the
countries northward of Watling-street, being a highway
crossing from the east to the west sea, and gave their oath
and hostages to obey him ; on which, King Swane finding
his undertaking fortunate beyond expectation, committed
the care of his fleet to his son Canute, and marched himself
first to Oxford, and then to Winchester; which cities,
probably through fear of further calamities, readily acknow-
ledged him for their king. From thence he marched for
London, where King Edelred then lay, and which was so
ably defended by the citizens, that he was likely to effect
nothing against it ; and therefore he directed his course to
Wallingford and Bath, where the principal men of the West
Saxons yielded him subjection. The Londoners too, at last,
fearing his fury and displeasure, made their peace, and sent
him hostages ; which city being thus received under his
subjection, Swane from that time was accounted King of
all England. King Edelred perceiving all his affairs in
England to go against him, and his authority and govern-
ment reduced to so narrow a compass, and having sent his
queen with his two sons Edward and Alfred to Normandy,
he thought it expedient within a short time to follow himself.
He was honourably received by his brother-in-law Richard ;
and had not been there long before news arrived of the death
of Swane, and that he was desired by the English to return
to his kingdom. Being animated and comforted with this
cheering news, he set forward with a great army to England,
and landing at Lindsey, he cruelly harassed that province,
by reason that it had owned subjection to Canute the son of
Swane, whom the Danes had elected king in his father's

stead.

HISTORY OF WALES. 63

stead. King Canute being at Ipswich, and certified of the
arrival of King Edelred, and the devastation of Lindsey,
and fearing that his authority was going down the wind,
barbarously cut off the hands and noses of all the hostages
he received from the English, and presently set sail for
Denmark. Whilst England was in this general confusion,
there occurred as great a storm in Ireland ; for Brian king
of that island, and his son Murcath, with other kings of the
country subject to Brian, joined their forces against Sutric
the son of Abloic King of Dublin, and Mailmorda King of
Lagenes. Sutric being of himself too weak to encounter so
numerous a multitude, hired all the pirates and rovers who
cruised upon the seas, and then gave Brian battle, who, with
his son Murcath, were slain ; and on the other side, Mail-
morda, and Broderic General of the auxiliaries.

But Canute, though he was in a manner forced to forsake A .D. 1013.
England upon the recalling of King Edelred, did not
abandon all his pretence to the kingdom ; and therefore the
next year he came to renew his claim, and landed with a
powerful force in West-Sex, where he exercised very great
hostility. To prevent his incursions, Edric, and Edmund
(bastard son to Edelred), raised their forces separately; but
when both armies were united, they durst not, either for
fear or because of the dissension of the two generals, fight
with the Danes. Edmund therefore passed to the north,
and joined with Uthred, Duke of Northumberland, and both
together descended and spoiled Stafford, Leicester, and
Shropshire. On the other side, Canute marched forcibly
through Buckingham, Bedford, and Huntingdonshire, and
so (by Stafford) passed toward York, whither Uthred has-
tened, and, finding no other remedy, submitted himself,
with all the Northumbrians, to Canute, giving hostages for
the performance of what they then agreed upon. Notwith-
standing this submission, Uthred was treacherously slain,
not without the permission of Canute, and his dukedom
betowed upon one Egrick, a Dane ; whereupon Edmund
left them, and went to his father, who lay sick at London.
Canute, returning to his ships, presently followed, and
sailed up the Thames towards London ; but before he could
come near the city King Edelred was dead, after a trou-
blesome reign of thirty-seven years. On his decease, the
English nobility chose his base son Edmund (for his eminent
strength and hardiness in war, surnamed Ironside) as their
king. Upon this, Canute brought his whole fleet up the
river to London, and, having cut a deep trench round the
town, invested it on all sides ; but being valorously repulsed

by

64 HISTORY OF WALES.

by the defendants, he detached the best part of his army to
fight with Edmund, who was marching to raise the siege ;
and both armies meeting in battle at Proman by Gillingham,
Canute with his Danes were put to flight ; but as soon as
time and opportunity permitted him to recruit his forces,
Canute gave Edmund a second battle at Caerstane : Edric,
Almar, and Algar, however, covertly siding with the Danes,
Edmund had great difficulty in maintaining the fight obsti-
nately till night and weariness parted them. Both armies
having suffered considerably in this action, Edmund went to
West-Sex to reinforce himself, and the Danes returned to
the siege of London, whither Edmund quickly followed,
raised the siege, forced Canute and his Danes to betake
themselves in confusion to their ships, and then entered
triumphantly into the city. Two days after, passing the
Thames at Brentford, he fell upon the Danes in their retreat,
by which lucky opportunity obtaining a considerable victory,
he returned again to raise recruits among the West Saxons.
Canute, upon Edmund's removal, appeared again before
London, and invested it by land and water, but in vain ; the
besieged so manfully and resolutely defending themselves,
that it was impossible to master the town before Edmund
could come to the relief of it : and this they soon experi-
enced; for Edmund, having augmented his forces, again
crossed the Thames at Brentford, and came to Kent in
pursuit of Canute, who upon giving battle was so signally
defeated at first, and his men put to such rout, that there
wanted nothing of a full and absolute victory but the firm
adherence of the traitor Edric, who perceiving the advan-
tage to incline to Edmund, and the Danes likely to receive
their final blow, cried aloud, " Fled Engle, Fled Engle,
Edmund is dead," and thereupon fled with that part of the
army under his command, leaving the king overpowered
with numbers. By this desertion and treachery the English
were at last overthrown, and a great number slain, among
whom were Duke Edmund, Duke Alfric, Duke Godwyn,
and Wolfkettel, the valiant Duke of the East Angles, together
with all the English cavalry, and a great portion of the
nobility. After this victory Canute marched triumphantly
to London, and was crowned king ; but Edmund, resolving
to try his fortune in another field, mustered together all the
forces he could, and meeting with Canute in Gloucestershire
intended to give him battle : considering, however, what
cruel and unnatural bloodshed had already been caused,
both generals agreed to put an end to their tedious quarrel
by single combat ; and the place being appointed, Edmund

and

HISTORY OF WALES. 65

and Canute attacked each other very vigorously, till at last
Canute perceiving it impracticable to vanquish a man like
Ironsides, laid down his weapon, making an offer to divide
the kingdom fairly betwixt them : Edmund was not dis-
pleased at the proposal, and therefore both parties sub-
mitted to this decision, that Edmund should rule the West-
Saxons and the South ; Canute in Mercia and all the
North ; and so they parted friends, Canute moving to
London, and Edmund to Oxford. But Edric was not
satisfied that Edmund should have any share at all of the
government, and therefore he resolved to conspire against
his life, and to deliver the whole kingdom of England into
the hands of Canute ; of whom he might reasonably expect
for this, and other traitorous services, a very ample and an
answerable return. This he committed to one of his own
sons to put in execution, a scion of the old stock, and one
early versed in wicked and traitorous designs, who, per-
ceiving the king to go to stool, thrust a sharp knife up his
fundament, of which wound he immediately died. Edric
being soon informed of the fact, hastened to London, and
with great joy and loud acclamations came to Canute,
greeting him as sole King of England, and withal, telling
him in what manner, and by whose means, his old enemy,
King Edmund, was assassinated, at Oxford. Canute,
though pleased at the death of Edmund, was a person of
greater honour than to commend so horrible a deed, though
done to an enemy, and therefore told Edric, that he would
without fail take care to reward him as his deserts required,
and would advance him above all the nobility of England,
which was quickly performed, his head being placed upon
the highest tower in London, for a terror to such villainous
traitors to their king. Edric was thus deservedly dis-
appointed of the mighty thoughts he entertained of great-
ness upon the advancement of King Canute : this generous
Dane scorned his baseness, and having paid Edric a traitor's
reward, caused execution to be done upon all his accom-
plices, and upon all those that consented to the base murder
of that brave Prince, King Edmund.

About the same time there happened great disturbance A.D.10W.
and commotion in Wales; Lhewelyn ap Sytsylht having
for some years been still and quiet, began now to bestir
himself, and having drawn all his forces together, marched
against Aedan, who forcibly and without any legal pretence
had entered upon, and for all this time had kept himself in,
the government of North Wales. Aedan would not quietly

surrender

60 HISTORY OF WALES.

surrender what had been so long in his possession, and to
maintain which, he now gave Lhewelyn battle; but the
victory going against him, he and his four sons were slain
upon the spot : on which Lhewelyn, without any regard to
the claim of lago the son of Edwal, the right heir, took
upon himself the title and authority of Prince of all Wales.
His pretension to North Wales was, as being descended
from Trawst, daughter to Elis, second son to Anarawd, who
was the eldest son of Roderic the Great;* and to South
Wales, as having married Angharad, the only daughter of
Meredith Prince of South Wales; by virtue of which pre-
tensions he assumed to himself the government of all Wales.

LHEWELYN AP SITSYLHT.

JLjHEWELYN having, as already stated, taken upon
him the general government of Wales, managed his charge
with such prudence and moderation, that the country in a
short time became very flourishing and prosperous; peace
and tranquillity being established produced plenty and in-
crease of all things necessary to human subsistence: for
there was none that could lay any claim or pretence to
either of the principalities, excepting Ingo the son of Kdwal,
who was indeed lawful heir of North Wales, but either too
weak to withstand or unwilling to disturb Lhewclyn's title,
and therefore lay quiet for a time, expecting a better oppor-
tunity to recover his r'mht. In the mean time Canute
being crowned King of all England, married Emma the
widow of King Edelred ; and for the better securing the
English crown to himself and his heirs, he thought it expe-
dient to dispatch Edmund and Edward Ilie sons of Ironsides
out of the way. Lest, however, such an execrable fact
should seem too black to be done in England, he sent the
two youths to Solomon King of Hungary, request .ing him to
use some convenient opportunity to take siway their lives;
which seemed to Solomon so very unnatural, that instead of
complying with Canute's request, lie educated and brought
them up as his own children. Canute imagined now that
his (ear was over, and his business effectually finished, so
that he could the more boldly demand of his subjects what
either his necessity or curiosity would prompt him to ; and
reflecting with himself what excessive expense he- had been
ut in the conquest of England, was • resolved that the

English

• Brit, Ant. revived by Vanglian of Hongwrt, p. 14.

HISTORY OF WALES. 67

English should repay him, and therefore required a sub-
sidy of seventy-two thousand pounds, besides eleven thou-
sand which the city of London contributed. At this time,
M eyrie the son of Arthtael, a person of quality in Wales,
rebelled, end raised an am -t Prince Lhewelyn, who

as soon as he appeared in the field to quell this mal-content
General, met with him and manfully slew him with his own
hand, and easily discomfited his followers.* About this
time also Canute sailed over to Denmark, and made war
upon the Vandals, who, notwithstanding they had a greater
army in the field, were overcome by the incomparable
valour of Earl Godwyn ; for which famous action Canute
held the English in great esteem ever after.

Lhewelyn Prince of Wales, though he had lately quelled A.
the roMs headed by Meyric, had now to encounter another
difficulty, which seemed to threaten greater disturbance and
trouble to him ; for a certain person of a mean quality in
land coming to South Wales, assumed the name of
Run,f and em out that he was the son of Meredith Prince
of South Wales: to whom joir.ed a great number of the
nobility, who had no great aflection for Lhewelyn, and
proclaimed Rim Prince of South Wales. Lhewelyn being
then in North A\ ales, was informed of this famous impostor,
and assembling an army together, marched to meet him,
who, with the whole strength of South Wales, then lay at
Tsiwili.J where he waited the arrivsl of Lhewelyn.
When both armies were ready to join battle, Run made a
vaunting speech to his soldiers, assuring them of victory,
and so persuading them courageously to fall on, private! y
himself retired out of harm's way ; so that there was on the
one side a valiant army under a cowardly general, and on
the other part a valiant and a noble commander engaging
with a slow and a faint-hearted army : for Lhewelvn,~like a
bold and courageous prince, ventured into the miclst of liis
enemies, whilst Run privately sneaked off out of all danger;
and die men of South Wales were more fierce and eager in
the cause of a pretender than the men of North Wales to
tain the quarrel of a prince of their own blood. After
great slaughter on both sides, the men of North Wales
calling to mind the several victories they had obtained, and
beini in a great degree animated by the incomparable
valour of their prince, fell on so warmly that they put their
enemies to flight, and pursued Run so close, that notwith-
standing his several devices, he was at last overtaken and

slain.
F -2

» Wefch Chron p. SV f ^«W» Chi^o p S&.

HISTORY OF WALES.

slain. Lhewelyn, after this victory, returned laden with
spoil into North Wales,* and for some time lived peaceably
and without disturbance: but the next year, Howel and
Meredith, the sons of Edwyn, conspired against him and
slew him. He left a son called Gruffydh ap Lhewelyn,f
who afterwards, though not immediately, ascended to the
principality of North Wales,

o

1AGOJ AP EDWAL.

. 'N the death of Lhewelyn, lago the son of Edwal, the
true heir to the principality of North Wales, who had
been so long wrongfully kept from it, thought this the best
opportunity to enter upon his right, by reason of the mi-
nority of Gruffydh the son of Lhewelyn; upon which
pretence, likewise, Rytherch the son of lestyn forcibly
assumed the principality of South Wales. About the same
time, Canute King of England sailed over to Denmark and
Sweden, against Ulf and Alaf, who had excited the Fin-
landers against him, whom he subdued, though with the
loss of a great part of his army, as well English as Danes.
Writhin a while after his return to England, he made a very
pompous and magnificent journey to Rome ; more to satisfy
his ambitious temper, and to signify to the world his great-
ness and might, which he expressed by his costly presents
and princely behaviour, than in any way to make atonement
for the oppression and bloodshed by which he had estab-
lished himself in his kingdom : for what holiness and morti-
fication he had learnt at Rome presently appeared upon his
return to England ; when, without any provocation, he
marched with an army into Scotland, and forced Malcolm
the king thereof, together with Molbeath and Jermare, the
kings of the Orkneys and Ewist, to do him homage.
A . D. 1031. The affairs of Wales were at this time very turbulent and
unsettled; for Howel and Meredith, after the murder of
Prince Lhewelyn, expected to enjoy some part of his prin-
cipality themselves, but finding that lago had seized upon
North Wales, and Rytherch upon South Wales, and withal
perceiving their own power too weak to oppose their de-
signs, they invited over the Irish-Scots to their aid against
Rytherch ap lestyn, Prince of South Wales. By the help

of

* Welsh Chron. pp. 85, 86.

Wish Chron. ibid. Ap Einion. ap Owen ap Howel Dh£. The word aj>, which 90
frequently occurs in Welsh names, signifies a son.

I Lineally descended from Roderic the Great, but had been long unjustly excluded.—
Welsh Chron. pp. 87, 8e.— Warringtou, vol. 1, p. 312.

HISTORY OF WALES. 69

of these, Howel and Meredith prevailed over Rytherch,
who being at length slain, they jointly took upon themselves
the rule and government of South Wales. This, however,
was not a sufficient title to establish them so firmly in it
that their usurpation would not be called in question ; for A. D. 1033,
the sons of Rytherch, presently after their father's death,
gathered their forces together to fight with the brothers
Howel and Meredith, who met at Irathwy,* where a cruel
battle was fought, called Gwaith Irathwy; and at last the
sons of Rytherch were put to flight. Though these vic-
tories, the one over Rytherch, and the second over his sons,
seemed in a great measure to favour Howel and Meredith's
pretence to and establishment in the principality; yet the
unpardonable crime of the murder of Lhewelyn, a prince of 1033.
so extraordinary qualities, could not remain long unreveng-
ed ; for the sons of Conan the son of Sitsyiht, Prince
Lhewelyn's brother, were resolved to avenge their uncle's
murder upon the two usurpers, which in a short time they
effected against Meredith, who met with the same end from
the sons of Conan that he had formerly inflicted upon
Lhewelyn. These civil discords in Wales were quickly 1034.
discovered by the English, who, taking advantage of so fair
an opportunity, entered with a great army into the land of
Gwent, where, after they had committed considerable waste
for some time, Caradoc the son of Rytherch ap lestyn gave
them battle, but was in that engagement unhappily slain.
Shortly afterwards died King Canute, the most famous and 1035.
the mightiest prince then in the western parts of the world,
whose dominions extended over all Sweden, from Germany
almost to the North Pole, together with the kingdoms of
Norway and Denmark, and the noble island of Britain. To
him succeeded his son Harold, for his swiftness surnamed
Harefoot, begotten upon Alwyn, the daughter of Duke
Alselyn, though several firmly contended for Hardycanute,
his other son by Ernma, who was then in Denmark. Harold,
however, being advanced to the throne, took care to estab-
lish himself as firmly as he could in it, and to that end
thought it expedient to banish out of his dominions his
mother-in-law Emma, who was endeavouring to promote the
interest of her own son Hardycanute, and to bring him to
the crown of England.

Whilst Harold was by these measures settled in his 1037.
dominions, lago ap Edwal was on the point of losing his
principality of North Wales; for Gruffydh the son of
Lhewelyn ap Sitsyiht, sometime Prince of North Wales,

having

* Welsh Chron. pp. 87, 88.

70 HISTORY OF WALES.

having intimated his intention of rebelling against lago, was
so generously encouraged and universally followed by all
people, for the love they bore to his father, that in a short
time his army amounted to an invincible number. However,
lago was not so thoroughly affrighted as to give up his
principality without drawing a sword for it ; but providing
for himself as well as he could, and drawing together such
forces as he could assemble, he gave Gruffydh battle, when
his number being far too weak to oppose so great an army as
that of Gruffydh, he was presently overpowered and put to
the rout, and himself slain, leaving a son called Conan, by
his wife Afandred, daughter to Gweir the son of Pyhl.*

GRUFFYDH AP LHEWELYN.

J AGO ap Edwal being slain, Gruffydh ap Lhewelyn was
received with loud acclamations, and joyfully greeted as
Prince of North Wales, and treading in his father's steps,
demeaned himself in his government with that prudence and
conduct, that he manfully defended his country against the
frequent invasions of the English and Danes ; for he was
scarcely settled in his dominion when these inveterate ene-
mies of the Welsh entered in an hostile manner into Wales,
and advanced as far as Crosford upon the Severn, where
Gruffydh met them, and forced them to retire with the
utmost speed to their own country. From thence Gruffydh
passed to Llanbadarn Vawr, in Cardiganshire, which he laid
in ashes, and afterwards marched through all the country of
South Wales, receiving of the people an oath of fidelity and
subjection to him. In the mean time, Howel ap Edwyn
Prince of South Wales fled to Edwyn, brother to Leofric
Earl of Chester, and prevailed upon him to come with an
army, consisting of English and Danes, to his aid against
Gruffydh, who, meeting his enemies in the field, easily
overcame them, Edwyn being slain upon the spot, and
Howel forced to 'preserve his life by flight ; after which
victory Gruffydh, having reduced all the country of Wales
A.D. 1039- to subjection, returned again to North Wales.f Howel, as
soon as he could recover himself and recruit his army,
entered again into South Wales, intending the recovery of
that principality, which he was now so well assured of, that
he brought his wife with him to the field, to let her see how

easily

* Welsh Chron. p. 89. f Welsh chron- P- 91-

HISTORY OF WALES. 71

easily he could conquer Gruffydh ;* but too great an assur-
ance of victory seldom proves prosperous, which Howel soon
experienced ; for Gruffydh meeting with him at Pencadair,f
gave him so warm an entertainment that he was forced to a
precipitate flight, which, however, could not so well secure
him, but that he was narrowly pursued, and his wife, who
was to have been entertained with the conquest of Gryffydh,
saw herself, on the contrary, taken prisoner by him, and
forced to comply so far to his humour as to be his concu-
bine.:}:

At this time Harold King of England died, and was
succeeded by his brother Hardycanute, a prince very famous
for hospitality, and a great lover of good cheer, having his
table covered four times a day with great plenty and variety
of dishes, and numerous superfluities for all comers; but he
likewise dying at Lambeth, after two years reign, the
English agreed to send for Alfred the eldest son of Edelred
from Normandy, and to make him king. This message by
no means pleased Earl Godwyn, a man of great sway then
in England, who, knowing Alfred to be a person of greater
spirit than to permit him to rule as he pleased, endeavoured
by every means to dissuade the English from sending for
Alfred. He told them how dangerous it was to permit a
warlike nation to take ro'ot in their country, and how
numerously Alfred would be attended by the Normans, to
whom he h,ad promised the chief places and rule of the
kingdom; ]by which and other like insinuations he so
exasperated the English nobility against the Normans, that
to diminish their number they put every tenth man to death.
This, however, not being sufficient, they acted the same
part over again, and tythed them a second time ; and being
highly enraged against the Normans, they led Alfred, who
had brought them over, from Gilford, where this execution
was committed, to Gillingham, where having put -out his
eyes, they removed him to Ely, and there at length mur-
dered him. Then they sent for Edward out of Normandy,
and made him king, who, according to his promise to Earl
Godwyn, married his daughter Edith, a lady much com-
mended not only for beauty, modesty, and other feminine
qualifications, but also, beyond what was then considered

requisite

* Welsh Chron. p. 91. -\- In Caermarthenshire.

J Welsh Chron. p. 91. — But it does not appear that Gruffydh lo«t any reputation wilh
his subjects; the Welsh, like most other nations at that time, regarding whatever they had
taken in war, even the wives of the vanquished, as the lawful property of the conqueror;
so great is the force of habit upon the human mind, as to counteract the first and (he
noblest principles of nature and religion. — Lord Lyttleton's Hen. II.— Warrington, vol. 1,
p . 316.

72 HISTORY OF WALES.

requisite for a woman, learning. King Edward did not
deal so favourably with her brother Swane, son to Earl
Godwyn, who upon some distaste was banished England,
and thereupon forced to betake himself to Baldwyn Earl of
Flanders, by whom he was very honourably received.
A. D. 1041. These troubles and revolutions in England were succeeded
by others of no less consequence in Wales. For Howel,
chagrined at being kept so wrongfully out of his kingdom,
returned again the third time into South Wales, where he
had not continued long before a great number of strangers
landed in the west of Wales, and advancing farther into the
country, pillaged and destroyed all places they came to.
Howel, though desirous to reserve his army to fight with
Prince Gruffydh, yet could not behold his country so miser-
ably wasted and over-run by strangers ; and thinking more-
over, that by so charitable an action he should win the
universal love of the men of South Wales, he drew up his
forces against them, and overtaking them at Pwll Fynach,
forced them, with much loss, to retire to their ships ; which
action was called in Welsh Gwaith Pwll Fynach. At the
same time Conan, the son of lago ap Edwal, who, for fear
of Prince Gruffydh, was forced to flee to Ireland, with the
forces of Alfred, King of Dublin, whose daughter, named
Ranulph, he had married, landed in North Wales; and
having, by some treacherous stratagem, taken Gruffvdh,
triumphantly carried him prisoner towards his ships. This
unhappy accident being discovered, and publicly known, the
North Wales men rose on a sudden, and so unexpectedly
overtook the Irish, that they easily recovered their Prince,
and drove his enemies with great slaughter to their ships ;
who, without any further consultation, were glad to sail
with Conan for Ireland.* Wales, both North and South,
being now free from all foreign invasion, and Howel, as yet,
too weak to dispute his title with Gruffydh, the next year

1042. passed without any occurrence of moment, excepting the
death of Howel, the son of Owen, Lord of Glamorgan, a

1043. man of great quality and esteem in Wales. Howel, the son
of Edwyn, however, as soon as he could call in his Danes,
to whom he added all the forces he could raise in South
Wales, intended to march against Prince Gruffydh ; but he
being previously aware to what end those levies wrere de-
signed, prepared against the approaching storm; and to
avert the war from his own country, marched courageously
to South Wales, not fearing to face an enemy whom he had
completely vanquished twice already. Both armies having

met,

* Welsh Chron. p. 03.

HISTORY OF WALES. 73

met, Gruffydh easily overcame, and pursued Howel as far
as the spring-head of the river Towy,* where, after a long
and a bloody fight, Howel was at last slain, and his army
so universally routed, that few escaped with their lives.f
Though Howel was now dead, there remained still more
pretenders to the principality of South Wales; so that
Gruffydh had no great prospect of enjoying the same peace-
ably: *for as soon as it was published that HowePs army was
defeated, and himself slain, Rytherch and Rhys, the sons of
Rytherch ap lestyn, put in their claim to South Wales in
right of their father, who had once enjoyed the sovereignty
of that country; and in order to its recovery, they assembled
together a great army, consisting partly of strangers and
partly of such as they could raise in Gwentland and Gla-
morgan, and marched to fight with Gruffydh. The Prince,
according to his usual manner, delayed no time, but ani-
mating and solacing his soldiers with the remembrance of
their former victories and conquests, gave his enemies
battle, which conflict proved so very bloody and protracted,
that nothing could part them beside the darkness of the
night. This battle so tired and exhausted both armies,
that neither was very desirous of another engagement, and
the one being unwilling to renew the contest with the other,
they each agreed to return to their own habitations.^: At
this time Joseph, Bishop of Teilo or Llandaff, died at Rome.
The contending armies being separated, Prince Gruffydh
enjoyed a quiet and unmolested possession of all Wales for
about two years; after which, the gentry of Ystrad Towy
treacherously slew 140 of his best soldiers, which made him
so indignant, that to revenge their death, he destroyed all
Dyfed and Ystrad Towy.

About the same time, Lothen and Hyrling, two Danish
pirates, with a great number of Danes, landed at Sandwich,
and having plundered the town, returned again to their
ships, and sailed for Holland, where they sold the booty
they had taken, and then returned to their own country.
Shortly aftewards Earl Swayn came out of Denmark with
eight ships, and returned to England, and coming to his
father's house at Pevenese, humbly requested of him, and
his brothers Harold and Tostie, to endeavour to obtain his
reconciliation with the King. Earl Beorned also promised
to intercede for him, and going to Swayn's fleet to sail to
Sandwich, where the King then lay, he was by the way most
treacherously and ungratefully murdered, and his body cast
upon the shore, which lay there exposed, till his friends

hearing
* In Caerraarthenshire. f Welsh Chron. p. 92. J Ibid.

74 HISTORY OF WALES.

hearing of the fact, came and carried it to Winchester, and
buried it by the body of King Canute, Beorned's uncle.
Swayn having committed this most detestable murder, put
himself again under the protection of the Earl of Flanders,
not daring to shew his face in England, till his father by
earnest mediation made his peace with the King.

This year Conan, the son of Tago, raised again an army
of his friends in Ireland, and sailed towards Wales, pur-
posing to recover his inheritance in that country ; but when
he was come near the Welsh coast, there suddenly arose
such a violent storm, that his fleet was immediately scattered,
and most of his ships wrecked, which rendered this expe-
dition ineffectual.* About the same time, Robert, Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, impeached Earl Godwyn, and his
sons Swayn and Harold, of treason, and the Queen of
adultery, and upon the account of their non-appearance
when cited before the Peers at Gloucester, the Queen was
divorced, and Godwyn and his sons banished, who with his
son Swayn fled to Flanders, and Harold to Ireland. These
unhappy occurrences, and the many troubles that ensued
thereupon, arose upon this occasion :— Eustace, Earl of
Bologne, being married to Goda, the King's sister, came
over this year to England to pay King Edward a visit, and
on his return to Canterbury, one of his retinue forcibly
demanding a lodging, provoked the master of the house so
far, as by chance or anger to kill him. Eustace, on this
affront, returned to the King, and by the insinuations of the
Archbishop, made a loud complaint against the Kentish
men ; to repress whose insolencies, Earl Godwyn was com-
manded to raise forces, which he refused to do, on account
of the kindness he bore to his countrymen of Kent. The
king summoned a parliament at Glocester, and commanded
Godwyn to appear there; but he, mistrusting either his
own cause, or the malice of his adversaries, gathered a
powerful army out of his own and his son's earldoms, and
marched towards Glocester, giving out that their forces
were to go against the Welsh, who intended to invade the
Marshes. King Edward being satisfied by the Welsh that
they had no such design, commanded Godwyn to dismiss
his army, and to appear himself to answer to the articles
exhibited against him. Godwyn having refused to obey,
the King, by the advice of Earl Leofrick. summoned an
assembly at London, whither a great number of forces
arrived from Mercia, which Godwyn perceiving, and withal
finding himself unable to withstand the king's proceedings,

privately

* Welsh Chron. p. 94.

HISTORY OF WALES. 75

privately retired with his sons out of the kingdom, and fled
into Flanders : whereupon the king issued out an edict,
proclaiming Godwyn and his sons out-laws, and then con-
fiscating their estates, bestowed them upon others of his
nobility. To pursue his displeasure the further, he di-
vorced his Queen Edith, Earl Godwyn's daughter, and
committed her to a cloister, where, in a mean condition, she
spent some part of her life. In the distribution of the for-
feited estates, Adonan obtained the earldoms of Devon and
Dorset, and Algar, the son of Leofrick, that of Harold.
Godwyn, however, could not patiently behold his estate
bestowed upon another ; and, therefore, having hired some
men and ships in Flanders, he sailed to the Isle of Wight,
and having made a sufficient havock there, he landed at
Portland, which he treated after the same manner. About
the same time, Harold having sailed from Ireland, at length
met with his father, and then, with their united navy, they
burnt Preveneseny, Romney, Heath, Folkston, Dover,
and Sandwich, and entering the Thames, they destroyed
Cheppy, and burnt the king's house at Middletown.
Then they sailed up the river towards London, where the
King's army being ready to oppose them, a treaty of peace
was, by the means of Bishop Stigand, agreed upon, which
was so much in Godwyn's favour, that the King received
him again to his confidence, restored him and his sons to
all their estates, recalled the Queen, and banished the
Archbishop, with all the Frenchmen who had been pro-
moters of the unhappy suspicion that the king had enter-
tained of them.

About this time Rhys, brother to Gruffydh Prince of A. D. 1052,
Wales, who by several irruptions upon the borders had
considerably galled and damaged the English, was taken
and put to death at Bulenden, whose head being cut off,
was presented to the King, then at Gloucester.* The king A. D. 1053.
received, however, better news some time after from the
north, for Siward Earl of Northumberland having sent his
son against Macbeth King of Scotland, vanquished the
Scots, though not without the loss of his son, and many
others, both English and Danes. Siward was not cast down
at his son's death ; but enquiring whether he received his
death's wound before or behind, and being assured that it
was before, he replied, " He was very glad of it, for he
could not wish his son to die otherwise." After this victory
King Edward marched in person to Scotland, and having

again

* His head was cut off by command of King Edward the Confessor. — Simon Dunehne,
sub. ann. 1053.— Stowe's Chron. p. 97.— Matth. Westm. p. 323.— Hist. Angl.

76 HISTORY OF WALES.

again overcome Macbeth in battle, he made the whole king-
dom of Scotland tributary to the crown of England. The
next year Earl Godwyn, sitting with the king at table,
suddenly sunk down dead, being choaked, as it is thought,
in swallowing a morsel of bread ; whose earldom the King
bestowed upon his son Harold, and Harold's upon Algar
Earl of Chester.

To this time is referred the origin of the Stewards in
Scotland, which being a remarkable passage, and in a great
measure dependant upon the affairs of the Welsh, is there-
fore here recorded. Macbeth King of Scotland having
caused Bancho, a nobleman of that kingdom, to be in-
humanly murdered, Fleance, Bancho's son, to avoid the
like cruelty to himself, fled to Gruffydh ap Lhewelyn Prince
of Wales, who taking a very great liking to his person, and
commiserating his condition, shewed him all the respect
and kindness possible. But Fleance had not continued
long with Gruffydh when he became enamoured of the
prince's daughter, and havinjg obtained her good-will, with-
out any regard had to her father's kindness towards him,
abused her so far as to get her with child. Gruffydh being
acquainted with the fact, so resented the affront, that he
caused Fleance to be slain, and treated his daughter most
servilely for prostrating her chastity, especially to a stranger.
However, she was in a short time delivered of a son, who
was christened by the name of Walter ; a child who in his
youth promised much, and evinced every probability of his
making a very considerable man, which happened according
to expectation. The first evidence of his future greatness
happened upon a very accidental occasion : being reproached
of bastardism by one of his companions, he took it in such
dudgeon that nothing could satisfy his revenge but the life
of the aggressor. Being on this mischance afraid to await
the award of the law, he thought it expedient to fly to
Scotland, where, falling in company with certain English-
men who were come thither with Queen Margaret, sister to
Edgar Edeling, he behaved himself so discreetly, that he
won the favour and good character of all who knew him,
and his fame daily increasing, he grew at length to that
height of reputation as to be employed in the most urgent
affairs of the commonwealth, and at last was made Lord
Steward of Scotland, from which office his posterity retained
the surname of Steward; — the Kings of Scotland of that
name, with several other families of quality in that kingdom,
being descended from him.*

* Subsequent researches have proved that this passage is founded in error, and that the
Steward* lineally descend from the ancient Shropshire family of Fitr-Alan.

HISTORY OF WALES. 77

But to return to England: Siward, the worthy Earl of
Northumberland, died about this time of the bloody flux ;
a man of a rough demeanor and a mere warlike temper, as
he plainly manifested when at the point of death ; for, be-
wailing as a misfortune that he, who had escaped so many
dangerous engagements, should be laid upon a bed of
sickness, and withal disdaining to die so effeminately, he
caused himself to be completely armed, and, as it were, in
defiance of death, expired in this display of martial bravery.
His son being too young, the king bestowed his earldom
upon Tosty, the son of Earl Godwyn.

Wales had been now a long time quiet, and free of all A. D. 1054.
troubles both from abroad and at home ; but it was- not to
be expected that such a calm should prove durable, but
rather that something or other would create new commo-
tions and disturbances. Accordingly Gruffydh, son to
Rytherch ap lestyn, having recruited and recovered himself
after the last defeat he received from Prince Gruffydh, ven-
tured another trial for the principality of South Wales.*
The Prince, losing no time, speedily marched against him,
and both armies having met, Gruffydh ap Rytherch was
easily vanquished, and finally was slain. But the troubles
of the Welsh did not end with him; for Algar Earl of
Chester being convicted of treason, and thereupon banished
the kingdom, fled to Gruffydh Prince of Wales, requesting
his aid against King Edward ; and Gruffydh reciting the
frequent wrongs he had received at the hands of the Eng-
lish, by their upholding his enemies against him, gladly
embraced the opportunity, and promised him all imaginable
support : and thereupon assembling his forces, he entered
with him into Herefordshire, and advancing into the country 1055.
within two miles of the city of Hereford, they were opposed
by Randulph, Earl of that country, who boldly gave them
battle. The fight continued very dreadful and dubious for
some hours, till at last Gruffydh so encouraged his soldiers
with the remembrance of their former victories over the
English, that they attacked the English with renewed
energy, and easily, discomfited Randulph, and slew the best
part of his army. Afterwards they pursued their chase to
the town, and having made all the waste and havoc they
were able, they laid the town itself in ashes, and so returned
home triumphantly, laden with rich booty and plunder.f

King

* Welsh Chron, p. 98.

f The Welsh in this en^a^ement cut in pieces four or five hundred of the fugitives,
and having entered into Hereford they burnt the Minster, and slew seven of the canons
who rashly attempted to defend it. — Saxon Chron. p. 169. — Roger Hovedon, p. 443, 444.
— Simon Tuaelme, p. 188.— Matth. Westm.p. 324-

78 HISTORY OF WALES.

King Edward receiving notice of this invasion, presently
gathered a great army at Gloucester under the conduct of
Harold, Earl Godwyn's son, who courageously pursuing the
enemy, entered into Wales, and encamped beyond Strad-
clwyd; but Gruflfydh and Algar dreading to oppose him,
retired further into South Wales, of which Harold being
certified, left one part of his army behind (with orders to
fight, if occasion required), and with the other passed to
Hereford, which he fortified with a strong wall round the
town. Gruffydh, perceiving his undaunted industry, after
many messages, concluded a peace with Harold at a place
called Biligelhag, by which articles Algar was pardoned by
the king, and restored to his earldom of Chester.* He did
not, however, continue long in the king's favour ; for about
two years after, upon conviction of treason, he was again
banished the land, so that he was forced to betake himself
to his old friend, Gruffydh Prince of Wales, by whose aid,
and that of a fleet from Norway, in defiance of the king he
was restored to his earldom. King Edward was much
offended with the Prince of Wales for thus harbouring
traitors, and therefore, to be revenged upon him, he dis-
patched Harold again with an army to North Wales, who,
coming to Ruthlan, burnt the Prince's palace there, and his
fleet that lay in the harbour, and then returned to the king
at Gloucester.

This year Edward, the son of Edmund Ironsides, who

was sent for out of Hungary, being designed successor to

the crown, came to England, but in a short time after his

coming died at London, leaving a son named Edgar Edeling,

and a daughter named Margaret, who was afterwards Queen

of the Scots, and mother to Maud, the wife of Henry the

A.D. 1056. First. About two years after, Roderic, son to Harold King

of Denmark, came with a considerable army into Wales,

and being kindly received by Prince GruflTydh, united his

force with the Welsh, and so entered into England, which

they cruelly harassed and laid waste ; but before they could

advance any considerable distance, Roderic was compelled

to sail for Denmark, and Gruffydh returned laden with

spoils into Wales. At this time also Harold, Earl Godwyn's

son, sailing to Flanders, was driven by force of weather to

land at Poytiers, where being taken prisoner, he was brought

before William, the bastard Duke of Normandy, to whom

he declared the reason of his voyage, that it was purposely

to tender him his service in the affairs of England ; and so

taking an oath, first to marry the Duke's daughter, and

after

* Roger Hovedon, pp. 443, 444. —Simon Bur.elmfj'p. 188.— Matth. Wcstm. p. 324.

HISTORY OF WALES. 79

after the death of Edward to secure the kingdom of Eng-
land for him, he was honourably dismissed. Upon his
return to England, by the persuasions of Caradoc the son
of Gruffydh ap Rytherch, he, with his brother Tosty, raised
a great army and entered into South Wales,* which they A. D. 1064.
ravaged to such a degree that the Welsh were glad to
deliver up hostages for the payment of that tribute which
aforetime they used to pay. Gruffydh hearing of the inso-
lencies of the English in South Wales, made every possible
haste and preparation to oppose them, but to no purpose ;f
Harold having already treacherously hired some of Gruf-
fydh's nearest friends to murder him, who watching their
opportunity, executed their wicked design and brought his
head to Harold. £ Gruffydh being dead, Harold (by King
Edward's orders) appointed Meredith, son of Owen ap
Edwyn, Prince of South Wales, and gave the government of
North Wales § to Blethyn and Rywalhon, the sons of
Confyn, brothers by the mother's side to Prince Gruffydh,
and who probably, for the desire of rule, were accessary to
the murder of that noble prince. Thus Gruffydh ap Lhew-
elyn enjoyed the principality of Wales for the space of
thirty-four years. He was a prince of incomparable virtues,
both wise and valiant, beloved of his subjects and formidable
to his enemies, in all his actions behaving himself great and
princely ; and having valiantly defended his country against
all foreign opposition, he was far unworthy of that treacherous
and cruel death which his unkind subjects and unnatural
friends inflicted upon him. He left issue but one daughter,
named Nest, abused first by Fleance son of Bancho, and
afterwards married to Trahaern ap Caradoc Prince of North
Wales.

BLETHYN AND RYWALHON.

A FTER the deplorable mnrder of Prince Gruffydh,
Meredith, the son of Owen ap Edwyn, who, according to
some, was son to Howel Dha, took upon him, as it is said,
the government of South Wales, and Blethyn and Rywalhon
the sons of Confyn, half-brothers to Gruffydh, as descended
from Angharad daughter to Meredith, sometime Prince of

Wales,

* Welsh Chron. p. 101. f *1)id-

J Together with the prow of the ship in which he returned.— Simon Dunelme, p. 191.

§ And Powys. — Welsh Chron. p. 102. — Simon Dunrlme, p. 1P2. — Willtam

Mnlmsbury, p. 94.

80 HISTORY OF WALES.

Wales,* entered upon the principality of North Wales;
Conan, the son of lago ap Edwal, the right heir to that
crown, being then with his father-in-law in Ireland. This
partition of Wales fell much short of the expectation of
Caradoc ap Gruffydh ap Rytherch, who being the chief
promoter of Harold's making an expedition against Gruf-
fydh ap Lhewelyn, had expected to obtain the government
of South Wales, in case of Gruffydh being defeated : but it
happened otherwise ; for Harold being sensible of Caradoc's
subtilty and knavery, and doubting whether (if he was made
Prince of South Wales) he could obtain a certain lordship
nigh Hereford, for which he had a great desire, he made a
composition with Meredith ap Owen for the said lordship,
and created him Prince of South Wales, f and banished
Caradoc out of the country. Harold having obtained the
consent of Meredith ap Owen, built a very magnificent
house at a place called Portascyth, in Monmouthshire,^ and
storing it with a great quantity of provision, splendidly
entertained the King, who honoured him with a visit. It
was by no means pleasing to Tosty to see his younger
brother in greater esteem and favour with the king than
himself; and having concealed his displeasure for a time,
he could not forbear at length from evincing his dissatis-
faction : accordingly, one day at Windsor, while Harold
reached the cup to King Edward, Tosty, ready to burst for
envy that his brother was so much respected beyond himself,
could not refrain from running furiously upon him, and
pulling him by the hair, dragged him to the ground, for
which unmannerly action the king forbade him the court : §
but he with continued rancour and malice rode to Hereford,
where Harold had many servants preparing an entertainment
for the king, and setting upon them with his followers,
lopped off the hands and legs of some, the arms and heads
of others, and threw them into the butts of wine and other
liquors which were put in for the king's drinking, and at his
departure charged the servants to acquaint Harold, " That
" of other fresh meats he might carry with him what he
" pleased, but for sauce he should find plenty provided
" ready for him." || For this barbarous offence the king
pronounced a sentence of perpetual banishment upon Tosty.^I
But Caradoc ap Gruffydh gave a finishing stroke to Harold's
house, and to the king's entertainment at Portascyth ; for
coming thither shortly after Tosty's departure, to be re-
venged

* William Malmsbury, p. 94. f Welsh Chron. p. 102.

t Portaskewith, in Monmouthshire. — Simon Dunelmt-, p. 192.

§ Simon Dunelme, p. 192. || Matth. Westm p. 331.
f Welsh Chron. pp. 104, 105.— Simon Dunelme, p. 192.— Camden's Brit. p. 597.

HISTORY OF WALES. 81

venged upon Harold, he killed all the workmen and labour-
ers, with all the servants he could find, and utterly defacing
the building, carried away all the costly materials which,
at a great expense, had been brought thither to beautify and
adorn the structure.* Soon after this, the Northumbrians
(who could not endure the insolencies of the two brothers
Harold and Tosty, who, bearing an uncontroulable sway in
the kingdom, were accustomed to practise the most hellish
villainies to obtain any man's estate that displeased them,)
in a tumult at York beset the palace of Tosty, and having
pillaged his treasure, slew all his family, as well Englishmen
as Danes. Then joining to themselves the people of Lincoln,
Nottingham, and Derbyshire, they elected Marcher the son
of Earl Algar their general, to whom came his brother
Edwyn with a considerable number of troops, and a great
party of Welshmen. Then they marched in a hostile manner
to Northampton, where Harold met them, being sent by the
king to know their demands ; to whom they laid open their
grievances, and the cruelty of Tosty's government, and, at
last, with an absolute refusal of admitting him again, desired
that Marcher should be appointed Earl over them, which
the King, upon the reasonable complaints of injuries done
by Tosty, easily granted, and willingly confirmed Marcher's
title : whereupon they peaceably returned back to the north,
and the Welsh, with several prisoners and other booties got
in this expedition, returned to Wales.

The year following, King Edward died, and was buried A. D. 1066.
at Westminster, being the last king of the Saxon blood be- lst Of
fore the conquest that governed the kingdom of England, William the
which from Cerdic King of the West Saxons had continued
544, and from Egbert the first monarch, 171 years. Edward
being dead; the next difference was about the election of a
successor, Edgar Edeling being set up by some as lawful
heir to the crown, which Harold, as being a person of
greater power and authority in the kingdom, much wealthier
and more befriended, presently thwarted, and brought mat-
ters so cunningly about, that himself was chosen king, with-
out any regard observed to the oath and promise he had
formerly made to William Duke of Normandy. Duke
William upon notice of Harold's advancement, and that he
had accepted of the crown of England contrary to the articles
between them, convened together his nobles, and laid before
them the several wrongs and affronts he had received at the
han<7s of Harold, as the death of his cousin Alfred, the

banishment
G
* Matthew Westm.— Welsh Chron. &c.

82 HISTORY OF WALES.

banishment of Archbishop Robert, Earl Odan, and all the
Normans, and, lastly, the breach of his oath and promise.
Then he declared to them the pretence he had to claim the
crown of England, that Edward had given him formerly an
absolute promise in Normandy, that if ever he enjoyed the
English crown, William should be his heir; which title,
though in itself weak and insignificant, served William's
purpose well enough to make an expedition against an in-
truder. Duke William's pretence seemed plausible enough
to the Norman nobility, but the difficulty of the undertaking
and the danger of this expedition was somewhat perplexing,
and made them less inclinable to encourage so precipitous
an undertaking; which they the more disliked upon the
persuasion of William Fitzosbert the Duke's sewer, whom
they pitched upon to deliver their thoughts as to the expedi-
tion unto the duke ; but he, instead of dissuading him from
this voyage, politicly declared that himself with all his
powrer were ready to live and die with him in this expedition,
which the rest hearing could not but offer the duke their
service in the same manner ; and so all things were prepared
for an invasion of England. In the mean while Tosty, full
of indignation at his brother's advancement to the crown,
entered the river H umber with forty sail, but meeting with
Earl Edwyn, who came to oppose him, he was forced after
a considerable encounter to bear off, and secure himself by
flight ; but meeting with Harold King of Norway upon the
coast of Scotland, coming for England with three hundred
sail, he joined his forces with Harold, and so both together
entering the Humber, they landed their army and marched
to York, where the Earls Edwyn and Marcher unsuccess-
fully gave them battle. Having pillaged and destroyed that
city, they passed on to Stamford-bridge, and there met with
King Harold, who with a well disciplined army was come
to stop their farther career. After a long and terrible
fight, and much bloodshed on both sides, the Norwegians
began at last to give way, which the English perceiving,
fell on so manfully that few or none escaped with their lives,
Harold and Tosty being also slain upon the spot. One of
the Norwegians is deservedly recorded for his incomparable
exploits performed in this battle, who with incredible
valour, maintaining the bridge against the whole strength
of the English army for above an hour, by his single resist-
ance delayed their victory, and having slain a great number
of his enemies, he seemed invincible, till in the end, no one
daring to grapple with him fairly, he was run through with
a spear from under the bridge, and so by his fall a passage

was

HISTORY OF WALES. 83

was opened for pursuit to complete the victory. King
Harold overjoyed with this success, triumphantly entered
into York, and whilst he was making merry with his nobles
at a sumptuous feast, news came that Duke William of
Normandy was safely landed at, and began to fortify himself
in, Hastings, with which tidings being no way dashed, as
fearing nothing after his late victory, he forthwith marched
towards him, and as soon as he was arrived in Sussex, with-
out any consideration of the fatigue his army had undergone
in their march, gave William battle. The Duke, dividing
his army into five battalions, made a long harangue to his
soldiers, wherein he repeated and commended the noble acts
of their ancestors the Danes and Norwegians, who had per-
petually vanquished the English and French, and other
nations, as many as they had to do with ,• and that them-
selves, being well horsed and armed, were now to engage
with a people void of both, who had no other defence to
trust to, than the nimbleness and swiftness of their heels.
Both armies being joined upon the 14th day of October,
Duke William, after some hours engaging, ordered his army
so to retire, as if they seemed to fly, which the English
perceiving, broke their ranks in haste of pursuing the sup-
posed fugitive, which falling out according to the Duke's
expectation, he sent in a fresh supply of Normans, who,
falling upon the confused battalions of the English, easily
overcame them, and Harold receiving first a wound by an
arrow was at length slain, and then both the field and the
victory were left to the Normans. The day being thus won,
William, from this time called the Conqueror, went straight
to London, where he was received with all possible formality,
and upon Christmas-day solemnly crowned King of England.
This change and alteration in England was previously prog-
nosticated by a comet which appeared in the spring of this
year, upon which a certain poet made the following verses :

Anno milleno sexageno quoque seno,
Anglorum metce flammas censer e cometce.

King William having established himself on the throne A. D. 1066.
of England, passed over the next year to Normandy, so to
settle affairs there, as afterwards they might have no need
of his presence. In the mean while Edgar Edeling, taking
advantage of his absence, returned from Scotland to York,
being declared king by the inhabitants of the country, who
had already slain Robert, upon whom William had bestowed
that earldom, with nine hundred of his men. But the king
upon his return to Normandy presently marched to the

north,
G 2

84 HISTORY OF WALES.

north, and having sufficiently revenged himself upon the
inhabitants, by wasting and destroying their country, chased
Edgar to Scotland again. The like advantage Edric Syl-
vaticus, the son of Alfric Earl of Mercia, embraced, who
refusing to hold any submission to the conqueror, took the
opportunity of his departure to Normandy to fall foul upon
such as were appointed vicegerents and governors of the
kingdom in his absence: whereupon Richard Fitzserope,
governor of the castle of Hereford, with the forces under
his command, so much harassed him, by wasting and con-
suming his lands and carrying off the goods of his tenants,
that he was compelled to desire aid of Blethyn and Ry walhon
Princes of Wales, by whose help, to recompense the loss he
had received, he passed into Hereford, and after that he
had over-run and pillaged the country to Wyebridge,* re-
turned back with exceeding great booty. But no sooner
were Blethyn arid Ry walhon arrived in North Wales, but
they received news of a rebellion raised against them by
Meredith and Ithel, the sons of GrufFydh ap Lhewelyn,
who had drawn together a considerable number of men,,
upon pretence of recovering the principality of North
Wales, which they said was fraudulently detained from
them. Blethyn and Rywalhon did not delay going in quest
of their enemies, and meeting with them at a place called
Mechain,f without any farther ceremony, set upon the
rebels, who behaved themselves so gallantly, that after a
fight of several hours they wanted nothing but numbers to
complete the victory. There fell in this, battle on the one
side Prince Rywalhon, and on the other Ithel, who being
A. D. 1068. slain, Meredith was forced to give way and endeavour to
save himself by flight, which could not secure him, he being
so narrowly pursued by Blethyn, that, in fine, he was glad
to escape to the mountains, where, for want of victuals and
other necessaries, he soon perished, leaving Blethyn ap
Confyn sole Prince of North Wrales and Powis.J During
these Welsh disturbances, Swane King of Denmark, and
Osburn his brother, with three hundred sail, came up the
Humber, and being joined by Edgar Edeling and Earl
Waltelfe marched to York, and taking the castle disposed
of their forces to winter quarters, betwixt the rivers Ouse
and Trent. The king understanding the matter, posted to
the north ; whose coming so dashed the confederates, that
they quickly dispersed their power, and the Danes escaped
to their ships, and the king having taken vengeance upon

the

* Simon Dunelme, p. 197. — Welsh Chron. p. 109.
f In the present County of Montgomery. J Welsh Chron. p. 109.

HISTORY OF WALES. 85

the rebellious inhabitants of the country, and, upon his
submission, having pardoned Earl Waltelfe, returned back
to London.

BLETHYN AP CONFYN.

ABOUT the same time Caradoc, son to Gruffydh ap
Rhytherch ap lestyn, all this while being much dissatis-
fied that he could not attain to the principality of South
Wales, invited over a great number of Normans, to whom
he joined all the forces he could raise out of Gwentland,
and other parts of Wales. Then attacking Prince Meredith, A. D. 1070.
who was far too weak to encounter so considerable an army,
gave him an easy overthrow near the river Rymhy,* where
Meredith was slain, and so Caradoc obtained the govern-
ment of South Wales, which for a long time he had en-
deavoured sinistrously to encompass. He had sometime
before procured Harold to make an invasion upon Gruffydh
ap Lhewelyn, purposely that himself might arrive at the
principality of South Wales ; and failing then of his expecta-
tion, he now invited over the Normans, not being willing to
trust the English any more, by reason that he had so un-
gratefully been prevented by Harold ; so that it seems he
cared not by what course, or by whose means he should
gain his point ; though it were by the ruin and destruction
of his country, which hitherto he had earnestly promoted.
Being at length advanced to his long expected government
of South Wales (which, though not recorded, seems yet
very probable, by reason that his son Rhytherch ap Caradoc
enjoyed the same very soon after), he did not enjoy this
honour long, but dying in a short time after his advance-
ment, left to succeed him his son Rytherch ap Caradoc.
At the same time that Caradoc carried on this rebellion in
Wales, the Earls Edwyn, Marcher, and Hereward revolted
from the King of England; but Edwyn suspecting the
success of their affairs, and determining to retire to Malcolm
King of Scotland, in his journey thither was betrayed, and
slain by his own followers. Then Marcher and Hereward
betook themselves to the Isle of Ely, which, though suffi-
ciently fortified, was so warmly besieged by the King, that
Marcher and his accomplices were in a short time forced to
surrender themselves up prisoners ; only Hereward made
his escape to Scotland : but the king followed him closely ;

and
* Prympyn, a river in that country.

86 HISTORY OK WALKS.

and after he had received homage of Malcolm King of
Scotland, returned hack to Kngland ; tuul after a short stax
here, passed over to Normandy, \\IUMV he rcceixed Kdii;ar
Kdehnij, a^am lo mercy.

A.D. 1071. The next sear the Normans, having already tasted of the
sweetness of \xasting and plundering a country, came oxer
again to \N 'ales ; and basing spoiled and destroyed Dxfed
and the country of Cardigan, returned honuMvith xerx great
spoil ; and the following year sailed over again for more
booty. About the same time, Neythyd, Bishop of St.
I )a\ id's, died, and was sneeeeded hx one Snlien. This \\as
not all the misfortune that hefel the Welsh ; for Kadnlph
Marl of the Kast Angles, together with l\oger Karl of Here-
lord and lOarl \\'altelpe, entered into a eonspiraex against
King \\illiam, appointing the da\ of marriage between
Kadnlph and Roger's sister, \\hieh \\as to he solemni/ed in
KSM>\, to tn'at of ami conclude their design.* Radulph's
mother was come out of Wales, and, upon that account, he
"united oxer sexeral of her friends and relations to the red-
ding ; meaning chietlN , under the colour of seeming alleetion,
by their help and procurement to bring over the princes and
people of Wales, to favour anil assist his undertaking ;f
but King William heim; acquainted with the whole plot,
quickly ruined all their intrigues; and unexpectedly coming
from Normandy, surprised the conspirators ; excepting
Radulph, \\ho either doubted of the success of their affairs,
or else had intimation gi\ en him of the king's landing, and
prexiousK took shipping at Norwich, and fled to Denmark.
\\altelpeand Roi^er \\ere exei'uteil. and all the other ad-
herents punished ;J more particnlarl) the Welsh, some of
whom were hanged, others hail their ex. es put out, and the
A.D. 107:1. rest \xere l>anislu*d. Soon aHer, Blethxn ap ('onlxn Prince
7th of of \\ ales \\as basely and treacherously murdered bx Rhxs
AVilliaiiitlir ;ip ()\xen ap Kd\\\n and the gentlemen of N strail TXNXX,^
Conqueror. nfior ju. |i;ui n.Jo,u»d thirteen years: a prince of singular
qualifications and virtues, and a mvat observer of justice
and eijuitx towards his .subjects; he xxas xery liberal and
munificent, being indeed xerx able, haxing a prodigious and
almost incredible estate, as appears by these verses made
upon it;

Blethyn ap Confyn
]Si fum bioedh fien

bob Ctrys

liiuris.

He

• Malth. P*ri«, p. 7 j Wttt*1 edition. f Wchh Chron. p. 111. J Ib

^ Welsh Annals, lll,-~0wca up Edwyn was the youngest son of Howel Dh&.

HISTORY OF WALES. 8t

lie had tour wive*. In whom he li;ul issue as follows, vr/. :
Meredith In liner daughter of (Minn, his first wile;
1. In \vnrch ami ( 1ndos*an by the second ; Madoc atul Kir\d
by the third ; and lorwerth b\ his last.*

TRAHAERN AP CARADOC.

Jt>LETHYN being, as is said, traitorously murdered, A. D. 1073.
i here was no regard had to his issue, ns to their right of

.succession; but Trahacrn ap (\iradoc his cousin ^orman,
biMiii; a person of mval pov>cr and swny iu the country, \vas
unnnimousK elected IViiuv of North NYalcs, and Rhys ap
O\\en \vitli Rythereh ap Caradoc jointlx p>vemeil J^outu
NN 'aK's. Trahaorn, indeed, had sonu* predMire to that
principality, as having married Nest, the only surviving
issue of that i^ivat priuco (initlxdli ap Lhewelyu: \\hosi*
two si>us MiMvdith and itlu'l were lalelx slain in their
attempt against Hleth\n and Ixywalhon ; but his title did
not secure him in Ins n;o\ eminent so nnieh as Ins possession,
siiu'e there was one still living, though not much regarded,
who, \\ithout am dispute, uas true heir and proprietor of
the prineipalit\ ol' North ^'alcs. This was (iruflydh son
ti> (\Mian. son to laj^o ap I'Mwal, who being informed ol'lhe
death of Hlethyn aj> Contyn, and the advancement of Tra-
haeru, though! this a proper time to endeavour the IVCOMM-N
of what was (ml) his right, and out of which he had been all
this time most wrongfully excluded. ^ hcrclore, having
obtained help in Ireland, where he privately sojourned
during the reign of Blethyn ap Confyn, from Encumolhon

King

* Hw first wife, Hacr, wa* a widow, very beautiful : she was the daughter nud heiress
o!"i;ill>M, tlu-sonof Klaiilii Uhudd, ortho bloody wolf of (u^st, in Klionydtl. Hy t'ynfyn

llinlrct', licr l\\^\ Inisb.unl, «.lic » ;»s m.\\uliuoll)cr to Uiriil, «l»ot»>olv tlic Appellation of
Illaidd, or tho \\o\\\ as dcsivudrd fn'«n Ulaidd Ithudd Jihovi- incntioiifd. The famous
llowrl > ptMlol.ut was tb«- sou ol' (;«rnllian. d.ui^litiM- to Uin.l 1'l.ii.UI. 'I'lu-ri- is a \Vrlsli
poem t-\(.int of I'uiddrUv IM \.l\ihl m.»« r, thr i;u\U b.inl, « l»o tlonrishcil aboul the > ear
11(50, on ivturnin-;- thanUs to Kiml lor a Tun- sword with whieh lie had presented him.—
> orke's lio\ al Tubi-.s p. 1'28. The following is a translation of ft portion of this poem:

" 1 luv<< ,i (ViiMiilly w»H'. lli.it si.\iuls l»y inc. to rinvh
'l'h<- ui.Millini; (.',•." It iMiot tlu- Ion-si »»U. si-.UIorinjr
Tlu- l)i»i-ml<-vx il>.,k. luil tin- \volT of tlu> li.-ltl of buttle i
Though at otln-r times he is uulil .uul liberal."

Mr. Vaughan, of Hcngwrt, informs us " Hint CriilTtuKl ab Cynan, Rhys ah Tewdwr, and

l'vleildyn\\b (\tnfyn, nude diligent seareb after the arms, ensigns, and pedigrees of their
aneestors, (he noi.ility, nud kings of (he Prit-Mis. \M>at the> diseov.-red by their psiins
in any pap»-r-. an<l reeoriU, was aflerw ;mi?. l'\ tlie l>.u Is digested, and put into books, and
they ordained five royal tribes, there being only three before, from whom their posterity
to this day can derive themselves; ami aUo fifteen special tribes, of whom the gentry of

North Wales are for the most part descended."

88 HISTORY OF WALES.

King of Ultonia, and from Ranalht and Mathawn, two other
kings of that country, he sailed for Wales, and landed in
the Isle of Anglesey, which he easily reduced and brought
to subjection.* At the same time Cynwric ap Rywalhon, a
nobleman of Maelor or Bromfield, was slain in North Wales,
but how, or upon what account, is not known. Whilst
Gruflfydh ap Conan endeavoured to dispossess Trahaern of
North Wales, Gronow and Lhewelyn, the sons of Cadwgan
ap Blethyn, having united their forces with Caradoc ap
Gruffydh ap Rytherch, intended to revenge the murder of
their grandfather Blethyn ap Confyn, upon Rhys ap Owenf
and Rytherch ap Caradoc, the joint rulers of South Wales ;
and marching confidently to find them, both armies met
together and fought at a place called Camdhwr;+ where
after a severe engagement the sons of Cadwgan at length
obtained a complete victory. In North Wales, at the same
time, Gruffydh ap Conan having established his possession
of the Isle of Anglesey, intended to proceed farther in the
main land of Wales ; to which end, having transported his
forces over the strait, lie encamped in the neighbouring
country of Carnarvonshire, purposing tq reduce North
Wales by degrees. Trahaern ap Caradoc being informed
of this descent of Gruffydh's, made all possible speed to
prevent his farther progress ; and having made all necessary
preparations that the shortness of the opportunity would per-
mit, he drew up his forces to Bron yr Erw, § where he gave
Gruffydh battle, and in fine forced him to a shameful flight;
so that he was glad to retire back safely to Anglesey. ||
A. D. 1074. The next year Rytherch ap Caradoc Prince of South
Wales died, being murdered through the unnatural villainy
of his cousin-german Meyrchaon ap Rhys ap Rytherch ;
after whom Rhys*ap Owen obtained the sole government of
South Wales : but his enjoyment of the whole of that
principality was not very lasting, and scarcely at all void of
1075. the trouble and vexation of war. For shortly after the death
of Caradoc, the sons of Cadwgan, thinking they might now
easily foil and vanquish one, seeing they had some time ago
victoriously overcome both princes together, with all the
forces they could raise, set upon Rhys at a place called
Gwanyffyd, who not being able to combat their numbers,
was routed and forced to flee ; however the blow was not so
mortal but that Rhys gathered together new levies, by the

help

* Welsh Chron. p. 112.— It may be proper here to remark, that though the lineal
succession was frequently interrupted, yet the Welsh always paid a regard to the same
royal blood, except in the instance of ^Edan ap Blegored.

f Of the Royal House of South Wales. J Camddwr, in Cardiganshire.

§ Near to the Castle of Harlech, in Merionydh. || Welsh Chron. p. 11 §,

HISTORY OF WALES. 89

help of which he was emboldened still to maintain himself
in his principality.* Fortune, however, which had ad-
vanced him to the crown, seemed now to frown at and cross
all his endeavours and undertakings, and being reduced to
a very weak condition in the last battle, he was attacked by
a fresh enemy before he could have sufficient time to recover
and recruit himself. For Trahaern ap Caradoc, Prince of
North Wales, perceiving the weakness and inability of Rhys
to make opposition against any foreign enemy that invaded
his territories, thought it now very feasible to obtain the
conquest of South Wales, and then to annex it to his own
principality of North Wales ; and, being induced by these
imaginations, he dispatched his army to South Wales to
fight with Rhys, who, with all the forces he could possibly
levy, as laying his whole fortune upon the event of this
battle, boldly met him at Pwlhgwttic, where, after a tedious
fight on both sides, Rhys having lost the best part of his
army, was put to flight, and so warmly pursued, that after
long shifting from place to place, himself with his brother
Howel fell at length into the hands of Caradoc ap Gruffydh,
who put them both to death, in revenge of the base murder
of Blethyn ap Confyn, by them previously committed.!
The principality of South Wales being thus vacant by the
death of Rhys ap Owen ; Rhys son to Theodore ap Eirieon
ap Owen ap Howel Dha4 as lawful heir to that government,
put in his claim, which being very plain and evident, so pre-
vailed with the people of that country, that they unanimously
elected him for their prince,^ much against the expectation
of Trahaern ap Caradoc, Prince of North Wales. The
next year St. David's suffered greatly by strangers, who
landing there in a considerable number, spoiled and A. D. 1077.
destroyed the whole town, shortly after which barbarous
action Abraham, bishop of that see, died ; and then Sulien,
who the year before had relinquished and resigned that
bishoprick, was compelled to resume it.

The government of all Wales, both North and South, had 1079.
been now for a long time supplied by usurpers, and forcibly
detained from the right and legal inheritors ; but Provi-
dence would not suffer injustice to reign any longer, and

therefore

* Welsh Chron. p. 113.— Vita Griff. Conani : a Manuscript Life of that Prince, written
in the Welsh language, as is supposed, near the time in which he lived.

f Welsh Chron. p. 113. — Bleddyn— Strength of the army.

J Ab Cadel ab Rhodri Mawr ab Mervyn Vrych ab Gwriad ab Elidyr ab Sandde ab
Alser ab Tegid ab Gwyar ab Dwywg ab Llywarch Hen ab Elidyr Llydanwyn ab
Meirchion Gul ab Grwst Ledlwm ab Coneu ab Coel Godebog. Rhys ab Tcwdwr was
Jhe founder of our second Royal Tribe.

§ Welsh Chron. p, 114.

90 HISTORY OF WALES.

therefore restored the rightful heirs to the principalities.
Rhys ap Theodore had actual possession of South Wales,*
and there wanted no more at this time but to bring in
Gruffydh ap Conan to the principality of North Wales ;
both these princes being indisputably right and lawful heirs
to their respective governments, as lineally descended from
Roderic the Great, who was legal proprietor of all Wales.
Gruffydh ap Conan had already reduced the isle of
Anglesey, but not being able to levy a sufficient army from
thence to oppose Trahaern, he invited over a great party of
Irish and Scots, and then with his whole army joined with
Rhys ap Theodore, Prince of South Wales. Trahaern in
like manner associating to himself Caradoc ap Gruffydh and
Mailyr the son of Rywalhon ap Gwyn his cousins-german,
the greatest and most powerful men then in Wales, drew up
his forces together with resolution to fight them. Both
armies meeting upon the mountains of Carno,f which
proved the more fierce and bloody, by reason that both
parties resolutely referred their whole fortune to the success
of their arms, and life would prove vain if the day was lost.
But after a bloody fight on both sides, the victory fell at last
to Gruffydh and Rhys, Trahaern with his cousins being all
slain in the field,:}: after whose death Gruffydh took posses-
sion of North Wales ; and so the rule of all Wales, after a
tedious interval, was again restored to the right line.
About the same time Urgency ap Sitsylht, a person of noble
quality in Wales, was treacherously murdered by the sons of
Rhys Sais, or the Englishman ; by which name the Welsh
were accustomed to denominate all persons who either had
lived any considerable time in England, or could fluently
and handsomely speak the English tongue.

GRUFFYDH

* According to Mr. Vaughan, of Hengwrt, the immediate territories of this prince were
the counties of Cardigan and Caermarthen ; as Pembroke, Brecknock, Gwent or Mon-
mouthshire, and Glewising or Herefordshire, were governed by their several reguli :
though there is no doubt but all these acknowledged the sovereign authority of South
Wales.— British Ant. Revived, pp. 7, 8.— Welsh Chron. p. 114.

•f In South Wales, called Mynydd Cam, on account of a large Carnedd upon it,
covering the remains of a great warrior, who had, in ancient times, been slain and buried
there.

I Vita fil Griff. Conani.— Welsh Chron. p. 114.

HISTORY OF WALES. 91

GRUFFYDH AP CONAN.

(jrRUFFYDH ap Conan being established in the princi-
pality of North Wales, and Rhys ap Theodore in that of
South Wales ; there was no one that could create them
any molestation or disturbance upon the account of their
right, which was unquestionably just ; so that they quietly
enjoyed for some time their respective dominions, without
apprehension of any pretender : indeed, it had seldom been
known before, but that one of the princes was an usurper ;
and particularly in North Wales, where, from the time of
Edwal Foel, none had legally ascended to the crown, ex-
cepting Edwal the son of Meyric, eldest son to Edwal Foel,
in whose line the undoubted title of North Wales lawfully
descended: and the right line being now restored in
Gruffydh ap Conan, the same legally continued to Lhewelyn
ap Gruffydh, the last prince of the British blood. During
these revolutions in Wales, some things memorable were
transacted in England; Malcolm King of the Scots de-
scending into Northumberland, ravaged and destroyed the
country without mercy, carrying away a great number of
prisoners ; after which the Northumbrians fell upon Walter
Bishop of Durham, whom they slew, together with a
hundred men, whilst he sate keeping his court, not anti-
cipating any such treacherous villainy. At the same time
Robert Curthoys, the Bastard's eldest son, being for some
reason disgusted against his father, and instigated by the
King of France, entered Normandy with an army and
claimed it as his right, which King William being ac-
quainted with, passed over to Normandy, and meeting with
his son hand to hand in battle, was by him overthrown.
Returning from Normandy he entered with a great army
into Wales, and marching after the manner of a pilgrimage
as far as St. David's, he offered and paid his devotion to A. D. 1079.
that saint,* and afterwards received homage of the kings and 13th of
princes of the country. About the same time the tomb of William the
Walwey, King Arthur's sister's son, a most valiant person Con<luerort
in his time, and governor of that country, from him called
Walwethey, was discovered in the country of Rhos, nigh
the sea-shore, whose skeleton proved monstrously pro-
digious, being in length about fourteen feet.

This year Madawc, Cadwgan, and Riryd, the sons of ^ D. i086.
Plethyn ap Confyn some time Prince of Wales, raised a

rebellion

* Welsh Chron. p. 115.

92 HISTORY OF WALES.

rebellion against Rhys ap Tewdwr,* and having drawn
together a great number of licentious and discontented
people, thought to eject him out of the principality of South
Wales. Rhys had not power and forces enough to oppose
them, while the rebel army increased daily by the addition
of the discontented multitude, wlio always rejoice at any
new commotion or disturbance, and therefore he was com-
pelled to retire to Ireland, where he obtained a very con-
siderable party of Irish and Scots upon promise of a
sufficient reward in the event of his being restored to his
principality. Having by this measure obtained a large
increase to his former strength, he landed in South Wales,
the news of whose arrival being spread abroad, his friends
from all quarters presently assembled about him, so that in
a short time his army became numerous, and able to confront
the enemy. The rebels were aware how the Prince's forces
daily multiplied, arid therefore to prevent any farther addi-
tion, they made all possible haste to force him to a battle,
which in a short time after happened at Lhech y Creu,f
where the rebels were vanquished; Madawc and Riryd
being slain, and Cadwgan glad to save his life by flight.
Rhys having won so signal a victory, and fearing no farther
disturbance, dismissed the Irish and Scots with great
rewards, who honourably returned to their own country.
Within a while after, an unaccountable sacrilege was com-
mitted at St. David's, the shrine belonging to the cathedral
being feloniously conveyed out of the church, all the plate
and other utensils were stolen, and only the shrine left empty
behind. The same year a civil war £ broke out in England,
and several armies in several parts of the kingdom were up
in array at the same time, and amongst the rest the Welsh,
who entering into Gloucester and Worcester shires, burnt
and destroyed all before them to the gate of Worcester. §
The king having drawn his army together, proceeded
against his enemies by degrees, and falling upon their
separate parties, without any great difficulty reduced all to
A. D. 1089. obedience. Within two years after, Archbishop Sulien, the
most pious and learned person in Wales, died, in the
eightieth year of his age, and in the sixteenth year of
his bishoprick; soon after whose death the town of St.
David's suffered a more apparent calamity, being first
plundered, and afterwards burnt by a company of pirates,

who

* Welsh Chron. p. 117. f Lhechayd, in Radnorshire.

J Excited by the Earls of Hereford and Shrewsbury.

§ Called by the Romans Brangonia ; by the Britons Caer-Vrangon ; and b*> the Saxons
Worcester.— Humffrey Lhuyd, p. 26. — Annales Waverlenses, p. 136.— Simon Dunelme,
p. 214.— Matth. Paris, p. 12.— Welsh Chron. p. 118.

HISTORY OF WALES. 93

who much infested the British coasts. About the same
time also died Cadifor the son of Calhoyn Lord of Dyfed,
whose sons Lhewelyn and Eineon moved Gruffydh ap
Meredith to take up arms against his sovereign Prince Rhys
ap Tewdwr, with whom they joined all the forces they could
levy among their tenants and dependants ; then passing
with their army to Lhandydoch,* boldly challenged Rhys
to fight; who thereupon gave them battle, and after a
resolute engagement on both sides, the rebels were at length
worsted, and put to flight, and so closely pursued, that
Gruffydh ap Meredith was taken prisoner, and executed as
a traitor :f but Eineon made his escape, and not venturing
to trust himself with any of his own kindred, he fled to
lestyn ap Gwrgantf Lord of Morgannwc,§ who was then
in actual rebellion against Prince Rhys ; and to ingratiate
himself the more in lestyn's favour, he entered into condi-
tions for the performance of certain articles, one of which
more especially was, that he should receive his daughter in
matrimony ; that he would bring over to his aid a consider-
able body of Normans, with whom he was intimately ac-
quainted, as having served a long time in England. These
articles being agreed to and recorded, Eineon posted to
England, and in a little time brought matters so about, that
he prevailed with Robert Fitzhamon and twelve more
knights to levy a strong army of Normans, and to come to
Wales to the protection and aid of lestyn. The beginning A. D. 1090.
of the following year they landed in Glamorganshire, and
were honourably received by lestyn, who, joining his power
to theirs, marched to Prince Rhys's dominions, where,
without the least shew of mercy to his own countrymen, he
encouraged the Normans by his own example to spoil and
destroy all that came before them. Prince Rhys was much
grieved to find his country so unmercifully harassed; and
though at this time very old, being above ninety-eight years
of age, he would not refrain from meeting his enemies ; and
having with all possible speed raised an army, he met with
them near Brecknock, where, after a terrible fight and a 1091.
great slaughter on both sides, he was unhappily slain. ||
With him fell the glory and grandeur of the principality of
South Wales; for it was afterwards rent in pieces and

divided

* In the county of Pembroke. f Welsh Chron. p. 119.

J lestyn ap Gwrgant wa's the founder of the fourth Royal Tribe of Wales, and de-
scended in the twenty-ninth generation, from the illustrious Caractacus. — " A sorry slip,"
says Mr. Yorke, " from such a stock."— The Silurian prince had defended his country from
foreign enemies : his descendant introduced them to enslave it.— Royal Tribes, p. 129.

§ The territory of Morgannwg or Morgan.

|| Upon the Black Mountain near Brecknock.— Humffrey Lhuyd, p. 80.— Polydore
Vergil, lib. x. p. 171.

94 HISTORY OF WALES.

divided into several parts by piecemeal among the Norman
captains, as is hereafter more particularly related. Prince
Rhys left issue by the daughter of Rywalhon ap Confyn,
two sons, Gruflfydh and Grono, the latter of whom was
detained prisoner by the King of England ; * though the
author of the winning of the lordship of Glamorgan affirms
that he was slain together with his father in this battle
against the Normans.

The Normans having received a sufficient reward from
lestyn, on account of their service against Prince Rhys,
returned to their ships, in order to their voyage homeward ;
but before they could loose anchor to sail off, Eineon re-
called them, being ungratefully affronted by lestyn, who
absolutely refused to make good to him the conditions which
they had agreed upon before the Normans were invited to
Wales. On this account, Eineon was so irreconcileably
incensed against lestyn, that, to be revenged upon him, he
was willing to sacrifice his native country into the hands of
strangers ; and therefore persuaded the Normans as to the
fertility of the country, and how easily they might conquer
and make themselves masters of it. But it needed not many
arguments to persuade a people that were willing of them-
selves, and more especially when encouraged thereto by a
person of some esteem in the country ; wherefore, without
any more questions, they presently fell to their business ;
and from friends became unexpectedly foes. lestyn was
much surprised to find the Nonnans, whom he had but
lately honourably dismissed from his service, and, as he
thought with satisfaction, so soon become his enemies ; but
perceiving a serpent in the hedge, by Eineon being upon
such friendly terms among them, he quickly guessed at the
reason, of which there was no remedy left, and for which he
had to bewail the needless folly of his own knavery. The
Normans easily dispossessed lestyn of the whole lordship of
Glamorgan ; f the most pleasant and fertile part of which
they divided among themselves ; leaving the more moun-
tainous and craggy ground to the share of Eineon ; J but as
Sir Edward Stradling, a descendant from one of Eineon's
Norman associates, hath left a particular and interesting
account of this expedition, and of the principal persons
engaged in it, I shall here insert his statement.

The

* Humffrey Lhuyd's Brev. p. 81.— Welsh Chron. p. 120.

f Humffrey Lhuyd's Brev. p. 80.— Welsh Chron. p. 120.— From Ran. Cest. lib. vii. cap.
7. — Marianus Scotus.

J Camden's Britannia, p. 602 j Gibson's Edit.— Humffrey Lhuyd's Breviary, p, 80.—
Welsh Chron. p. 120.

HISTORY OF WALES. 95

The winning of the Lordship of Glamorgan or Mor-
gannwc out of the Welshmen's Hands, and first of the
description of the same Lordship.

[Reprinted from the Edition of 1584.]

J. N primis, the said lordship in length from Rymny bridge
on the east side, to Pwlh Conan on the west side, is 27
miles. The breadth thereof from the haven of Aburthaw
alias Aberdaon, on the south side, to the confines of
Bredinockshire, above Morleys castle, is 22 miles.

Item the same lordship, being a lordship marcher, or a
lordship royal, and holden of no other lordship, the lords
ever since the winning of the same, owing their obedience
only to the crown, have used therein jura regalia : that is,
the trial of all actions, as well real as personal, with pleas of
the crown, and authority to pardon all offences, treason only
excepted.

Item there were 11 lordships, to wit, Senghennyth,
Myskyn, Ruthin, Lhanblethian, Tir larlh, Glyn Rothney,
Auan, Neth, Coyty, Talauan and Lhantuit alias Bouiarton,
that were members of the said lordship of Glamorgan. In
every of the members were the like jura regalia used in all
things, saving that if any wrong judgement were given in
any of the courts of the said members, it should be reversed
by a writ of false judgement in the county court of Glamor-
gan, as superior court to the said members. Also all
matters of conscience happening in debate in any of the said
members, should be heard and determined in the chancery
of Glamorgan, before the chancellor thereof.

Item, the body of the said lordship of Glamorgan was
(before the alteration of the laws in Wales) a county of itself,
wherein the lord had two castles and three market towns,
to wit, the castle and town of Kynfigs, alias Kefnffigen, in
the west part thereof, and Cowbridge town, alias Pont vaen,
in the middest. And the town and castle of Cardyff, or
Caer-Dhydh, in the east part, in which castle of Cardyff
the lord did most inhabit ; and therein he had his Chancery
and Exchequer, and a fair court house, wherein the county
court was monthly kept on the Monday for all the suiters of
the shrievalty, that is, of the body of the said lordship itself,
without the said members.

Item, within the said shrievalty, or body of the said lord-
ship, were 18 castles, and 36 knight's fees and an half, that

held

96 HISTORY OF WALES.

held of the said lordship of Glamorgan by knights service,
besides a great number of freeholders.

6 Item, in eight of the said members were ten castles and
four borough towns.

7 Item, the annual revenues of the said lordship with the
The value members, was 1000 marks, whereof was allowed in fees 400

of. marks; of the which members aforesaid, John Gamage,
beVore'the' ^sq. occupieth one at this day, descended unto him from
purchase the Turberuiles, his ancestors, that is to wit, the lordship of
thereof. Coytie ; and the heir of John Bassett enjoyeth another, to
wit, the lordship of Talauan, by purchase from King Ed-
ward the sixth. The other nine members, with four of the
aforesaid knights fees, and all the castles, market towns, and
borough towns, with the demesnes of the same ; and all the
lands that were in the lords hands, parcel of the said lord-
ship and members, the earl of Pembroke hath purchased.
The value So that there remaineth now to the senior of the said lord-
of the gj^p Q£ Glamorgan (being in the Queen's Majesty's hands)
but the moity only of the manor of Dynaspowys, of the value
of 26 pounds by the year.

The Manner of the winning of the said Lordship.

A.D. 1091. N the year of our Lord 1091, and in the fourth year of the
reign of King William Rufus, one lestyn, the son of
Gurgant, being lord of the said lordship of Glamorgan,
Rees ap Tewdwr, prince of South Wales, that is, of Caer-
marthyneshire and Cardiganshire, made war upon him.
Whereupon the said lestyn, understanding himself unable to
withstand the said Rees without some aid otherwise, sent
one Eneon, a gentleman of his, to England, to one Robertus
Fitzhamon, a worthy man, and knight of the privy chamber
with the said king, to retain him for his succour. The
which Robert, being desirous to exercise himself in the
feats of war, agreed soon with him thereto for a salary to
him granted for the same. Whereupon the said Robert
Fitzhamon retained to his service for the said journey,
twelve knights, and a competent number of soldiers, and
went into Wales, and joining there with the power of the
said lestyn, fought with the said Rees ap Tewdwr and
killed him, and one Conan his son. After which victory,
the said Robert Fitzhamon, minding to return home again
with his company, demanded his salary to him due of the
said lestyn, according to the covenants and promises agreed

upon

HISTORY OF WALES. 97

upon between him and the aforesaid Eneon, on the behalf
of the said lestyn, his master. The which to perform in all
points the said lestyn denied ; and thereupon they fell out,
so that it came to be tried by battle. And, for so much
as the said Eneon saw his master go from divers articles and
promises that he had willed him to conclude with the said
Robert Fitzhamon, on his behalf, he forsook his master,
and took part, he and his friends, with the said Robert
Fitzhamon. In the which conflict, the said lestyn with
a great number of his men were slain, whereby the said
Robert Fitzhamon won the peaceable possession of the
whole lordship of Glamorgan, with the members, of the
which he gave certain castles and manors, in reward of ser-
vice, to the said twelve knights, and to other his gentlemen.

The Names and Sirnames of the said Twelve Knights
were tJiese.

1 Y ? ILLIAM de Londres alias London.

2 Richardus de Grana villa alias Greenfeeld.

3 Paganus de Turberuile.

4 Robertus de S. Quintino alias S. Quintine.

5 Richardus de Syward.

6 Gilbertus de Humfrevile.

7 Rogerus de Berkrolles.

8 Reginaldus de Sully.

9 Peter le Soore.

10 Johannes le Fleming.

1 1 Oliverus de S. John, a younger brother of the Lord S.

John, of Basing.

12 William le Esterling, whose ancestors came out of

Danske to England with the Danes, and is now by
shortness of speech called Stradling.

The Parcels given by the said Robert Fitzhamon to the
said Twelve Knights and other sf in Reward of Service.

J.N primis, to the said William de Londres, the said i
Robert Fitzhamon gave the castle and manor of Ogmor, Ogmor.
being four knights' fees ; now parcel of the possessions of
the duchy of Lancaster.

Item, to the forenamed Sir Richard Greenfeeld, he gave 2
the castle and lordship of Neth, being one of the members NeUl-
aforesaid ; and now parcel of the possessions of the Right
Hon. the Earl of Penbroke.

Item,
H

98 HISTORY OF WALES.

3 Item, to Sir Paine Turberuile, he gave the castle and
oy y' lordship of Coyty, being another of the said members ; and

now parcel of the possessions of John Gamage, Esq.

4 Item, to Sir Robert S. Quintine he gave the castle and
ih an BIC lordship °f khan Blethan, being another of the said mem-
bers; and now parcel of the possessions of S. William
Herbert, of Swansey, Knt.

5 Item, to Sir Richard Syward, he gave the castle and
Talauan. lordship of Talauan, being another of the said members ;

and now parcel of the possessions of Anthony Maunsell,
Esq.

6 Item, to Sir Gilbert Humfrevile, he gave the castle and
Penmarke. manor of Penmarke, being three knights' fees ; now parcel

of the possessions of the Right Hon. Lord St. John, of
Bledso.

7 Item, to Sir Reginald de Sully, he gave the castle and
Sul|y- manor of Sully, so since called after his name, being two

knights' fees ; now divided betwixt the Earl of Pembroke,
and the Lord St. John, of Bledso.

8 Item, to Sir Roger Berkrolles, he gave the manor of East
Orchard Orcnard, being one knight's fee ; now parcel of the pos-
sessions of S. William Herbert, of Swansey.

9 Item, to Sir Peter le Soore, he gave the castle and manor
Peterton. of peterton, so now called after his name, being one knight's

fee ; now parcel of the possessions of the Earl of Penbroke.

10 Item, to Sir John Fleming, he gave the castle and manor
?orge' of St. George, being one knight's fee; and holden of his

posterity the Flemings to this day.

n Item, to Sir John St. John, he gave the castle and manor

Fonmon. of FOnmon or Fenuon, being one knight's fee; and now

parcel of the possessions of the Lord St. John, of Bledso.
12 Item, to Sir William le Esterling alias Stradling, he gave

s. Donates, the castle and manor of St. Donats or St. Denwit, being one
knight's fee ; now parcel of the possessions of Sir Edward
Stradling, Knt. that now is.

Sum. Four Lordships Members, and Thirteen Knights

Fees.

13 ITEM, he gave to the aforesaid Eneon, that took his part,
the lordship of Senghennyth, being another of the said
members.

14 Item, he gave the castle and lordship of Auan, another of
the said members, to Caradoc Fitz lestyn, the eldest son of
the said lestyn.

Item,

HISTORY OF WALES. 99

Item, be gave the lordship of Ruthyn, another of the said 15
members, to another son of the said lestyn.

Item, the rest of the foresaid knights' fees, being twenty- ie
two and an half, he distributed part to gentlemen that served
him, and part to the Welshmen, right owners of the same.

The Portion that the Lord kept for himself and his

Heirs.

Jl HE castle of Cardyff and Kenfigg, with the foresaid
three market towns of Cardyff, Kenfigg, and Cowbrige, and
the shrievalty, being a body of the said lordship of Gla-
morgan, and all the demesnes of the same, with the rest of
the said members ; to wit, Miskyn, Glynrothney, Tyr larl,
and Boviarton alias Lentwit: and the chief seniory of the
whole the said Robert Fitzhamon kept to himself. And in
the said lordship of Boviarton he had a large grange or
house of husbandry, with the lands to the same belonging,
that served him for the provision of corn to his house. He
dwelt himself most in the said castle or town of Cardyff,
being a fair haven town. And because he would have the
aforesaid twelve knights and their heirs give attendance
upon him every county day (which was always kept by the
sheriff in the utter ward of the said castle, on the Monday
monthly as is before said) he gave every one of them a
.lodging within the said utter ward, the which their heirs,
or those that purchased the same of their heirs, do enjoy at
this day.

Also the1 morrow after the county day, being the Tuesday,
the lord's chancellor sat always in the chancery there, for
the determining of matters of conscience in strife, happening
as well in the said shrievalty as in the members ; the which
day also, the said knights used to give attendance upon the
lord ; and the Wednesday every man drew homeward, and
then began the courts of the members to be kept in order,
one after another.

The Pedigree of Robert Fitzhamon, and of his Heirs,
Lords of Glamorgan.

fWl Some do af-

1 JL HE said Robert Fitzhamon, was son to Hamon, firm that he
a great lord, and kinsman of William the Conqueror, AstreTiie in

who Normandy.
H 2

100

HISTORY OF WALES.

Matt. West,
lib. 2, p. 21.
I. Castor.
Matt. Paris,
page 22.

who came into the realm with him. This Robert (as is
before said) was knight of the privy chamber with King
William Rufus ; who (as it appeareth in the Chronicles)
dreamed the night before the king was killed, that he
saw the king torn in pieces by wolves ; and therefore, by
his persuasion, he walled the king to forbear to go
abroad that forenoon. But the king, when he had
dined, there was no man able to stay him, but that he
would ride forth a hunting into the new forest, where
he was slain by Walter Tyrrel, by the glancing of his
arrow shooting at a red deer.

2 Mawd, the only daughter and heiress of the said
Robert, was married to Robert, Earl of Glocester,
base son to King Henry the First.

3 William, Earl of Glocester, son to the said Robert
and Mawd, died without issue male, leaving behind him
three daughters, of the which, Isabel, the eldest, was
married to King John, then Earl of Oxenford and
Lancaster, (as some chronicles do declare,) who, so soon
as he was made king was divorced from her, and then
she was married to Geffrey Mandevile, Earl of Essex,
and died without issue, as far as I can find.

4 The second daughter named Amicia, was married to
Sir Gilbart de Clare, then Earl of Clare, by whom he
had the earldom of Glocester : and Mabile, the third
daughter, was married to the Earl of Eureux.

5 Sir Gilbart de Clare, son to the said Gilbart, was the
fourth Earl of Glocester.

6 Sir Richard de Clare's son was the fifth Earl.

7 Sir Gilbart's son was the sixth Earl.

8 Sir Gilbart's son, who married Jane de Acres,
daughter to King Edward I. was the seventh Earl.

9 Sir Gilbart de Clare their son was the eighth Earl,
and he was slain by the Scots in King Edward the
Second's time ; and then the earldom fell between his
three sisters. Of the which, Elianor, the eldest, was
married to Hugh Spencer, the son, in her right Earl of
Glocester. Margaret, the second, was married to Peires
Gaueston, and after to the Lord Awdeley. Elizabeth,
the third, was married first to William, Lord Burgh,
Earl of Ulster, and after to Ralph Roch, Baron of
Armoy, in Ireland ; she was married the third time to
Theobald L. Verdoun, and lastly to Sir Roger Damory,
and had issue by every one of them.

Sir Hugh Spencer had to his wives purpartee the said

10

lordship of Glamorgan.

11

CAMPBELL
COLLECTION

HISTORY OF WALES. 101

1 1 Sir Hugh, Lord Spencer, their son, enjoyed the same,
and died without issue.

12 Edward, Lord Spencer, son to Edward, brother to
the said Hugh, succeeded the said Hugh therein.

13 Thomas, Lord Spencer, his son, succeeded him.

14 Richard, Lord Spencer, his son, succeeded him, and
died in ward.

15 Isabell, sister to Richard, succeeded him, and married
with Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Worcester, and Lord
Burgavenny, who had issue by her a daughter only, and
died. The which daughter was married to Edward, the
son of Dawraby, Ralph Neuel, Earl of Westmoreland.
And after the death of the said Earl of Worcester, the
said Isabell married with Richard Beauchamp, Earl of
Warwick.

16 Henry Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and after Duke
of Warwick, their son, died without issue.

17 Anne, his sister of whole blood succeeded him, and
married with Richard Neuel, after Earl of Salisburie,
and in her right Earl of Warwick, and had issue two
daughters, Mary, married to the Duke of Clarence, and
Anne, married first to Prince Edward, slain at Teux-
burie, and after his death with Richard, Duke of
Glocester, who was afterwards King of England.

18 The said Anne and King Richard (being then Duke
of Glocester) had the said lordship given unto them
by the said Anne, Countess of Warwick, her mother.

19 King Henry the Seventh enjoyed the same after the
death of King Richard.

20 lasper, Duke of Bedford, enjoyed the same by the
gift of King Henry the Seventh, and died without
issue ; and by reason thereof it remained to the king
again.

21 King Henry the Eighth enjoyed the same after his
father.

22 King Edward the Sixth succeeded him therein, and
sold almost all the lands thereof.

23 Queen Mary succeeded him in the seniory.

24 Queen Elizabeth our most dread sovereign that now
is, doth succeed her in the same seniory, and hath sold
the lordship of Neth from it ; so that now there remain
no more lands appertaining to the seniory, but the
moity of the manor of Deinaspowys only.

The

102 HISTORY OF WALES.

The Pedigree of Londres, Lord of Ogmore, one of the
said Twelve.

1 WlLLIAM LONDRES, lord of the castle and
manor of Ogmore, (as is before said,) won afterwards
the lordships of Kydwelhey and Carnewilhion, in Car-
marthenshire, from the Welshmen ; and gave to Sir
Arnold Butler his servant, the castle and manor of Dun-
reeven, in the lordship of Ogmore aforesaid. The
which ever since hath continued in the heirs male of
the said Arnold Butler, until within these few years that
it fell to Walter Vaghan, sister's son to Arnold Butler,
the last of the Butlers that was owner thereof.

2 Simon de Londres, his son, succeeded him.

3 William de Londres succeeded his father Simon, and
had issue one son.

4 Moris de Londres, his son, succeeded him, and had
issue one only daughter,

5 The said daughter married with one Seward, a man
of great possessions.

6 They had issue a daughter only, married to Henrie,
Earl of Lancaster, brother to Thomas, Earl of Lan-
caster.

7 Henrie their son, made afterwards Duke of Lancaster,
did succeed them; and so the said three lordships,
Ogmore, Kydwelhey, and Carnewilhion, became parcels
of the Duchy of Lancaster ever after.

The Pedigree of Greenefeeld.

Richard Greenefeeld before said, (to whom the
lordship of Neth was given in reward,) was lord of the
castle and manor of Bydyford, in Devonshire, at the time he
came into Wales with the said Robert Fitzhamon, and
founded an abby of white monks in Neth, and gave the
whole lordship to the maintenance of the same, and then
returned back again to Bydyford, whereat the issue male of
his body doth yet remain, and enjoy eth the same.

The Pedigree of Turberuile, Lord of Goyty,

I ^IR Paine Turberuile, Lord of Coyty, as is before
said.

2

HISTORY OF WALES. 103

2 Sir Simon Turberuile succeeded him, and died with-
out issue.

3 Sir Gilbart Turberuile succeeded his brother.

4 Sir Paine Turberuile, his son, succeeded him, and
married Mawd, daughter and sole heir to Morgan Gam,
one of the nephews of the aforesaid lestyn.

5 Sir Gilbart, their son, quartered lestyn's arms with
Turberuile's.

6 Sir Gilbart, his son, succeeded him.

7 Sir Richard, his son, succeeded him.

8 Sir Paine, his son, succeeded him, who merried with
Wenlhian, daughter to Sir Richard Talbot, Knt.
and had issue by her two sons, that is to wit, Gilbart
and Richard; and four daughters, namely, Catharine,
Margaret, Agnes, and Sara.

9 Sir Gilbart succeeded Sir Paine his father.

10 Sir Gilbart, his son, succeeded him, and died without

issue.
J.1 Sir Richard, his father's brother, succeeded him, and

having no issue, entailed the lordship of Coyty to the

heirs male of Sir Roger Berkerolles, Knt.

1 Sir Roger Berkerolles, Knt. son to Sir William
Berkerolles, Knt. and Phelice his wife, one of the
daughters of Veere, Earl of Oxenfbrd, which said Sir
Roger had married Catharine, the eldest sister of the
said Sir Richard. And for default of such issue, the
remainder to the heirs male of Sir Richard Stakepoole,

2 Knt. who married with Margaret, second sister of the
said Richard. And for default of such issue, the
remainder to the heirs of Sir John de la Beare, Knt.

,3 and Agnes his wife, the third sister to the said Richard.
And for lack of such issue male, the remainder to the
4 heirs male of William Gamage, and of Sara his wife,
the fourth sister to the said Sir Richard Turberuile.

The said Berkrolles, Stakepoolle, and De la Beare,
died without issue male,* by reason whereof, after the

death

* Robert, the only brother of the said Sir Richard Stacpoole, married a daughter of
Sir John Sitsylt or Cecil!.

T Sir William Stacpoole, his eldest son, married a daughter of Howel ap Ithel, Lord of
Roos and Ryuonioc, now Denbighland. The said Sir William Stacpoole had a command
in an army, raised in the reign of King Stephen, against David, King of Scots, but died
young, leaving three sons and one daughter.

Sir Richard Stacpoole, his eldest son, of Stacpoole, in the county of Pembrooke, married
a daughter of Sir Henry Vernon, of Haddon, in the Peke.

No mention is made of the second son ; but Robert, the youngest son, epcouraged by
his cousin Robert Fitzstephen, went over to Ireland with Richard, Earl of Strigule, known
by the name of Strongbow, and was a captain of archers in that division of the army that

Fitzstephen

104 HISTORY OF WALES.

death of Sir Laurence Berkerolles, Knt. son to the said
Sir Roger, and Catharine his wife; the said lordship
fell to Sir William Gamage, son to Gilbert, son to the
foresaid William Gamage, and Sara. The said William
was son to Sir Robert Gamage, Knt. son to Paine
Gamage, lord of the manor of Rogiade, in the county of
Monmowth. The foresaid Sir William had issue
Thomas, Thomas had issue John, John had issue
Morgan, Morgan had issue Sir Thomas Gamage, Knt.
and Margaret, wife to lenkin Thomas, and Anne, wife
to Robert Raglan, and Catharine, wife to Reginald ap
Howel, and Wenlhian, wife to Thomas ap Meyric.

The said Sir Thomas Gamage had issue Robert
Gamage, that late was ; Catharine his eldest daughter,
wife to Sir Thomas Stradling, Knt. Marie the second
daughter, wife to Matthew Herebert ; Margaret the third
daughter, wife to the Lord William Howard; and
Elizabeth the fourth daughter, wife to Richard Hogan,
of Penbrookeshire, Esq. The said Robert Gamage had
issue John Gamage, that now is.

1 Sole heir general to the said Sir Roger Berkrolles,
Knt. and Catharine, one of the four sisters, and heirs
general to the aforesaid Sir Richard Turberuile, Knt.
is Sir Edward Stradling, Knt. that now is.

2 Sole heir general to the said Sir Richard Stakepoole,
of Penbrookeshire, and Margaret his wife, another of
the four sisters, and heirs general to the said Sir Richard
Turberuille, Knt. is Sir George Vernon, Knt.

3 Heirs general to the said Sir John de la Beare, Knt.
and Agnes his wife, another of the four sisters, and heirs
general of the said Sir Richard Turberuille, Knt. are
Oliuer S. John, Lord S. John, of Bledso, and William
Basset, of Glamorgan, Esq. that now is.

4 John Gamage, Esq. that now is, is as well heir
general lineally descended from Sara the fourth sister,
and heir to the said Sir Richard Turberuile, Knt. as
also heir by the entail aforesaid, to the whole lordship
of Coyty.

Robert

Fitzstephen commanded under Strongbow, in the year 1168, the fourteenth year of King
Henry the Second.

The said Robert Stacpoole after settled in Ireland, and his lineal descendant has a large
property in the county of Clare, in that kingdom.

The old mansion of Stacpoole Court, and a large estate in Pembrokeshire, descended
to a grand-daughter of the second Sir Richard Stacpoole, and became the property of the
son of the late Pryse Campbell, Esq. who was member for that county, and died in 1769

HISTORY OF WALES. 105

Robert de S. Quintine, his Pedigree.

Robert de S. Quintine, to whom the lordship of
Lhanblethian was given, and his issue male enjoyed the
same until King Henry the Third's time. And then, or in
a short time after, his issue male failed, of whom is de-
scended Sir William Parr, late Marquis of Northampton.

Richard de Syward, his Pedigree.

Richard Syward, to whom the lordship of Talauan
wras given, and his issue male, enjoyed the same until King
Edward the Third's time ; at which time the heirs thereof
having other lands in Somersetshire, sold the said lordship
to the Lord Spencer, then Lord of Glamorgan, and went
into Somersetshire to dwell there, where his issue male
continueth yet.

Gilbert de Humfreuile, his Pedigre.

IR Gilbert Humfreuile aforesaid, to whom the castle
and manor of Penmarke was given, and his issue male,
enjoyed the same till the said King Edward the Third's
time; and then the inheritance of the said castle and manor
descended to Sir John S. John, of Fonmon, Knt. to whom
the forenamed Lord S. John, of Bledso, is sole heir.

SIR

Roger de Berkerolles, Knt. his Pedigree.

Roger Berkerolles aforesaid, Knt. to whom the
manor of East Orchard was given ; and his issue male,
enjoyed the same till the thirteenth year of Henrie the
Fourth; that Sir Laurence Berkerolles, Knt. died, whom
Sir Edward Stradling, Knt. as sole heir did succeed, being
son to Sir William Stradling, Knt. son to Sir Edward
Stradling, Knt. and Wenlhian sole sister and heir to the
said Sir Laurence, of .whom Edward Stradling, Knt. (that
now is) is lineally descended.

Reginald

106 HISTORY OF WALES.

Reginald de Sully, Knt. his Pedigree.

Reginald de Sully, to whom the castle and manor of
Sully was given, and his issue male, enjoyed the same until
about King Edward the First's time. And then it fell to a
daughter married to Sir Morgan de Avan, Lord of the
lordship of Avan above-named; whose son, Sir John de
Avan, had but one daughter, of whom Sir George Blunt, of
Shropshire, is lineally descended as sole heir, whose ances-
tor gave the said lordship of Avan, and the castle and
manor of Sully to the Lord Spencer, in exchange for other
lands in England.

Peter le Soore, Knt. his Pedigree.

Peter le .Soore, Knt. to whom was given the c,astle
and manor of Peter's Towne, and his issue male, enjoyed
the same until King Henry the Fourth's time, and then died
without issue, and his inheritance fell between divers.

John le Fleming, Knt. his Pedigree.

John le Fleming, Knt. to whom the castle and manor
.of S. George was given, and his issue male, enjoyed the
same until King Henry the Fourth's time ; and then it fell
to Edmond Malefant, who had married a daughter to the
last Fleming. And in King Henry the Seventh's time the
Malefants' issue by Fleming's daughter failed; and then
It fell to John Butler, of Dunreeven above named, Esq. and
after the death of him and of Arnold his son, both the
inheritances of Fleming and Butler fell to Walter Vaghan,
of Brodemard, in the county of Hereford, Esq. now living,
sister's son to the said Arnold Butler.

Oliuer de S. John, Knt. his Pedigree.

Oliuer S. John, Knt. to whom the castle and manor
of Fonmon was given, and his heirs male have ever since
enjoyed the same, to whom the above-named Lord S. John,
ofBledso, that now is, is sole heir; whose ancestors from

the

HISTORY OF WALES. 107

the winning of the said lordship of Glamorgan out of the
Welshmens hands, have continually dwelt at Fonmon afore-
said, until the latter time of King Edward the Fourth.
That John S. John, Esq. had the said lordship of Bledso,
and many other possessions besides, by the death of dame
Margaret Beauchampe, his mother, who was also mother to
Margaret, Duchess of Somerset, mother to King Henry the
Seventh. Since which time the said John S. John, and Sir
John S. John, Knt. father to my lord that now is, have
always dwelt in Bledso, but they do keep their lands in
Wales still in their hands.

William le Esterling, alias Stradling, his Pedigree.

1 J^IR William Esterling, Knt. to whom the castle and
manor of S. Donat's was given.

2 Sir John le Esterling, Knt. his son, succeeded him.

3 Sir Morris le Esterling, Knt. his son, succeeded him.

4 Sir Robert le Esterling, Knt. (most commonly called
Stradling by shortness of speech and change of some
letters) succeeded him.

5 Sir Gilbert Stradling, Knt. his son, succeeded him.

6 Sir William Stradling, Knt. his son, succeeded him.

7 Sir John Stradling, Knt. his son, succeeded him.
It doth not appear in what stock or surname any of these
seven knights above named did marry ; but the names of
the wives of William the first, Robert, and John the
second, were Hawisia, Mathilda, and Cicilia.

8 Sir Peter Stradling, Knt. his son, succeeded him,
who in the beginning of King Edward the First's time
and reign married lulian, sole daughter and heir of
Thomas Hawey, by whom he had three manors, Hawey
and Comhawey, in Somersetshire, yet remaining to his
heirs, and Compton Hawey, in Dorsetshire, sold of late
years.

9 Sir Edward Stradling, Knt. their son, succeeded
them, and he quartered the Haweys' arms with his, and
married with Elianpr, daughter and heir to Gilbert
Strangbow, a younger brother, whose wife was daughter
and heir to Richard Garnon, and had by her two
manors in Oxefordshire.

10 Sir Edward Stradling, Knt. his son, succeeded him,
and married with Wenlhian, daughter to Roger Berk-
rolles, Knt. and sole sister and heir to Sir Laurence
Berkrolles, Knt. as it happened afterward.

108 HISTORY OF WALES.

11 Sir William Stradling, Knt. his son, married with
Isabel, daughter and heir to John S. Barbe, of Somer-
setshire ; but he had no lands by her, for it was entailed
to the heirs male. This Sir William, in King Richard
the Second's time, went a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and
received there also the orders of knighthood of the
sepulchre of Christ.

12 Sir Edward Stradling, Knight, his son, succeeded
him, who, because he was sole heir general to the said
S. Barbe, did quarter S. Barbe's arms with his. To
whom also (in the thirteenth year of King Henry the
Fourth) fell the whole inheritance of the Berkerolles,
and the right of the fourth part of Turberuile's in-
heritance, Lord of Coyty aforesaid ; the which, for lack
of issue male of the said Berkerolles, remained to
Gamage and to his heirs male by the especial entail
Aforesaid. The which Sir Edward did quarter not only
the said Berkerolles' arms with his, but also the Tur-
beruiles and lestynes arms ; of whom the Turberuiles
had in marriage one of the inheritors as is before said,
because the said Sir Edward was one of the four heirs
general to Sir Richard Turberuile, to wit, son to Sir
William Stradling, son to Wenlhian, sister and heir to
the said Laurence Berkerolles, and daughter to
Catharine, eldest sister, and one of the four heirs
general to the aforesaid Sir Richard Turberuile.

The said Sir Edward married with Jane, daughter to
Henry Beauford, afterwards Cardinal, begotten (before
he was priest) upon Alice, one of the daughters of
Richard, Earl of Arundel ; and in the beginning of
King Henry the Seventh's reign, he went likewise on
pilgrimage unto lerusalem, as his father did, and
received the order of the sepulchre there.

This Sir Edward had to his brother Sir John Strad-
ling, Knight, who married with the heir of Dauncy, in
Wiltshire, and had issue Sir Edmond, who had issue
John and Edmond. John had issue Anne, Lady
Davers, of whom the Davers, Hugerfordes, Fynes, and
Leuet, and a great progeny of them are descended ; and
of the said Edmond cometh Carnysoyes, of Cornewal.

The said Edward had another brother called William,
of whom Stradlyn, of Ruthyn, and others are descended ;
the same William had a daughter named Wenlhian,
who, by the Earl of Ryuers, had a daughter, married to
Sir Robert Poynes, of whom cometh all the Poynes, the
Newtons, Perots, and others.

HISTORY OF WALES. 109

13 Sir Harrie Stradling, Knight, his son, succeeded
him, and married with Elizabeth, sister of whole blood
to Sir William Herbert, Knight, Earl of Penbrooke,
and had issue by her one son and two daughters ; one of
them was married to Myles ap Harry, of whom Mrs.
Blanch ap Harrie and her brethren and uncles are
descended ; the other daughter was married to Fleming,
of Monton, in Wales.

This Sir Harrie, in the sixteenth year of King Edward
the Fourth, went in like manner on pilgrimage to Jeru-
salem, and received the order of the sepulchre there, as
his father and grandfather did, and died in the Isle of
Cypres in his coming home ; whose book is to be seen
as yet, with a letter that his man brought from him to
his lady and wife. The saying is, that divers of his said
ancestors made the like pilgrimage, but there remaineth
no memory in writing but of these three.

This Sir Harrie, sailing from his house in Somerset-
shire to his house in Wales, was taken prisoner by a
Brytaine pirate, named Colyn Dolphyn, whose redemp-
tion and charges stood him in 2000 marks; for the
payment whereof he was driven to sell the castle and
manor of Basselek and Sutton, in Monmouthshire, and
the manors in Oxfordshire.

14 Thomas Stradling, Esq. his son, succeeded him, and
married lenet, daughter to Thomas Matthew, of Rayder,
Esq. and had issue by her two sons, Edward and Harrie,
and one daughter named Jane, and died before he was
twenty-six years of age. After whose death, his wife
married with Sir Rice ap Thomas, Knight of the Garter.
Harrie married with the daughter and heir of Thomas
lubb, learned in the law, and had issue by her Francis
Stradling, of S. George, of Bristow, yet living. lane
was married to Sir William Gruffyth, of North Wales,
Knt. and had issue by her three sons, Edward, Sir Rice
Gruffyth, Knt. and John, and seven daughters. The
oldest married to Stanley, of Houghton, the second to
Sir Richard Buckley, Knt. the third to Lewys, the
fourth to Moston, the fifth to Conwey, the sixth to
Williams, the seventh to Pers Motton, and after to
Simon Theloal, Esq. whose wife at this time she is ; the
eighth to Philips. Of which daughters there be a won-
derful number descended. Edward married Jane,
daughter to Sir J ohn Puleston, Knt. and had issue by
her three daughters ; Jane married to William Herbert,
of S. Julian ; Catharine married, to William Herbert, of

Swansey,

110 HISTORY OF WALES.

Swansey, and another daughter married to Sir Nicholas
Bagnoll, Knt.

15 Sir Edward Stradling, Knt. succeeded his father, and
married with Elizabeth, one of the three daughters of
Sir Thomas Arundell, of Lanheyron, in Cornewall, Knt.
The other two were married to Speke and S. Lowe, and
had issue four sons, Thomas, Robert, Edward, and
John. Robert married Watkyn Lodher's daughter, and
by her hath many children ; Edward married with the
daughter and heir of Robert Baglan, of Lantwit, and
hath also divers children ; and John is a priest. Also
the said Sir Edward had two daughters ; Jane married
to Alexander Popham, of Somersetshire, of whom is a
great number descended ; and Catharine married to Sir
Thomas Palmer, of Sussex, who hath a son named
William.

16 Sir Thomas Stradling, Knt. his son, succeeded him,
and married Catharine, the eldest daughter to Sir
Thomas Gamage, of Coyty,Knt. and to dame Margaret
his wife, daughter to Sir John S. John, of Bledso, Knt.
by whom he hath living yet two sons, Edward and
Dauid ; and five daughters, Elizabeth, Damasyn, lane,
loice, and Wenlhian.

17 Sir Edward Stradling, Knt. that now is, married
Agnes, second daughter to Sir Edward Gage, of Sussex,
Knt. and as yet in the year 1572 hath no issue.

Memorandum, that of the heirs male of the aforesaid
twelve knights that came with Sir Robert Fitzhamori to
the winning of Glamorgan, the lordship aforesaid, there
is at this day but the Stradling alive, that dwelleth in
Wales, and enjoy eth the portion given in reward to his
ancestors.

There be yet of the younger brothers of the Turberuiles
and Flemings.

Greenefeeld and Syward do yet remain, but they
dwell in England, and have done away their lands in
Wales.

The Lord S. John, of Bledso (although he keepeth
his ancient inheritance in Wales) yet he dwelleth in
England.

Thus far the copy of the winning of Glamorgan, as I
received the same at the hands of' Mrs. Blanch Parrie,
penned by Sir Edward Stradling, Knt.

D. POWEL.

We

HISTORY OF WALES. Ill

We may here observe what a train of circumstances
concurred together, in favour of the Normans having pos-
session of this lordship : for had not Eineon, being van-
quished by Prince Rhys, fled to lestyn rather than to
another, or had not lestyn been so vain as to attempt the
conquest of South Wales, and to that end consented to the
advice of Eineon, there had been no necessity of inviting
the Normans at all to Wales. And then, the Normans
being arrived, had not Testyn faithlessly violated his pro-
mise, and refused to perform the articles agreed upon
between him and Eineon, or had not Eineon pursued so
desperate a revenge, but satisfied his passion upon lestyn,
without prejudice to his country, the Normans would have
returned home with satisfaction, and consequently could
never have been proprietors of that noble country they then
forcibly possessed. And again, the Welsh here experienced
the dangerous consequence of calling in a foreign nation to
their aid ; the Saxons had already dispossessed them of the
best part of the island of Britain, and now the Normans
seized upon a great part of that small country which had
escaped the sovereignty and conquest of the English.

About the same time that Robert Fitzhamon took the
lordship of Glamorgan, Barnard Newmarch,* a nobleman
likewise of Normandy, obtained by conquest the lordship of
Brecknock; and Henry de Newburgh, son to Roger de
Bellemont, by the Conqueror made Earl of Warwick, the
country of Gower. But Barnard Newmarch gave the peo-
ple of Wales some small satisfaction and content, by marry-
ing Nest, the daughter also of Nest, daughter to Lhewelyn
ap Gruffydh Prince of Wales, by whom he had issue a son
called Mahael. This worthy gentleman being legally to
succeed his father in the lordship of Brecknock, was after-
wards disinherited by the malice and baseness of his own
unnatural mother. The occasion was thus : Nest becoming
enamoured of a certain knight, with whom she had more
than ordinary familiarity, even beyond what she expressed
to her own husband ; Mahael, who perceived her dissolute
and loose behaviour, counselled her to take care of her
fame and reputation, and to leave off that scandalous liberty
which she took ; and afterwards meeting casually her gallant
coming from her, fought and grievously wounded him.

Upon

* Several gentlemen came about this time to Brecknock with Barnard Newmarch, to
whom he gave the following manors, which their heirs enjoy at this time : The manor of
Abercynvric and Slowch to the Aubreys : the manors of Llanhamlach and Tal-v-Lhyn
to the Walbiefs: the manor of Gilston to the Gunters : and the manor of Pontw'ilym to
the Havards, &c.— See Welsh Chron. p. 150.— Camden's Britannia, p. 590, Gibson's Edit

112 HISTORY OF WALES.

Upon this Nest, to be revenged upon her son, went to
Henry the First, King of England, and in his presence took
her corporeal oath, that her son was illegitimate, and not begot
by Barnard Newmarch her husband, but by another person ;
by virtue of which oath, or rather perjury, Mahael was
disinherited, and his sister, whom her mother attested to be
legitimate, was bestowed by the King upon Milo, the son
of Walter Constable, afterwards Earl of Hereford, who, in
right of his wife, enjoyed the whole estate of Barnard
Newmarch, Lord of Brecknock. Of this Milo, it is re-
ported, that telling King Henry of a strange accident which
had occurred to him by Lhyn Savathan, in Wales, where
the birds upon the pond, at the passing by of Gruffydh, the
son of Rhys ap Theoder, seemed by their chirping to be in
a manner overjoyed ; the king replied, it was not so wonder-
ful, " for although (says he) manifestly we have violently
and injuriously oppressed that nation, yet it is known that
they are the lawful and original inheritors of that country."
Whilst the Normans were thus carving for themselves in
Glamorgan and Brecknock, Cadogan ap Blethyn ap Confyn,
towards the end of April, entered into Dy ved, and, having
ravaged and destroyed the country, returned back: but
within eight weeks after there succeeded him a more fatal
enemy ; for the Normans landing in Dyved and Cardigan,
began to fortify themselves in castles and other strong
places, and to inhabit the country upon the sea-shore,
which before was not in their possession. Indeed the
Normans, having by the connivance of the Conqueror al-
ready got into their hands all the best estates in England,
began now to spy out the commodities of Wales; and
perceiving, moreover, how well Robert Fitzhamon and
Barnard Newmarch had sped there, thought they might
expect the like fortune. Wherefore, having obtained a
grant from King William (who readily consented to their
request, because by this means he killed two birds with one
stone, procuring to himself their utmost service upon occa-
sion, and withal providing for them without any charge to
himself) they came to Wales, and so entered upon the
estates appointed them by the king, which they held of him
by knight-service, having first done homage and sworn
fealty for the same. Roger Montgomery Earl of Arundel
did homage for the lordships of Powys and Cardigan;
Hugh Lupus Earl of Chester for Tegengl and Ryfonioc,
together with all the land lying upon the sea-shore to the
river Conwy; Arnulph, a younger son of Roger Mont-
gomery, for Dyved: Barnard Newmarch for Brecknock;

Ralph

HISTORY OF WALES. 113

Ralph Mortimer for Elvel; Hugh de Lacy for the land of
Ewyas; Eustace Omer for Mold and Hapredale; and
several others did the like homage for other lands. But
Roger Montgomery, who by the Conqueror was created
Earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury, entered in an hostile
manner into Powysland, and having won the castle and
town of Baldwyn, fortified it in his own right, and called it
Montgomery after his own name.* King William of Eng-
land WPS now in Normandy, and busily engaged in a war
against his brother Robert; and taking advantage of his
absence, Gruffydh ap Conan, Prince of North Wales, and
Cadogan ap Blethyn, who now ruled in South Wales, with
joint force entered into Cardigan, and slew a great number
of Normans, whose arrogance and excessive cruelty towards
the Welsh were become intolerable. After taking suffi-
cient revenge there they returned home, and the Normans
sent for aid from England; which being arrived, they
thought to make a private inroad into North Wales, and so
to be avenged upon the Welsh : but their design being
discovered to Cadogan, he drew up his forces to meet them,
and unexpectedly falling upon them in the forest of Yspys,
after a very warm resistance on the part of the Normans, he
forced them to retire by flight, and then triumphantly march-
ing through Cardigan and Dyved, he destroyed all the
castles and fortifications in the country, excepting those of
Pembroke and Rydcors, which proved too strong, and, as
regarded his force, were impregnable.

The next year, the Normans who inhabited the country of A. D. 1C93.
Glamorgan invaded and ravaged the countries of Gwyr,
Kidwely, and Ystrad Tywy, which they harassed in such a
cruel manner, that they left them bare of inhabitants ; and
to increase the miseries of the Welsh, King William Rufus,
being informed of the great slaughter which Gruflfydh ap
Conan and the sons of Blethyn ap Confyn had lately com-
mitted upon the English, as well within Cheshire, Shrop-
shire, Worcestershire, and Herefordshire, as within Wales,
entered the country at Montgomery, which place the Welsh
having some time since demolished King William had
recently rebuilt : but the Welsh kept all the passages thro'
the woods and rivers, and all other straits, so close, that the
King could effect nothing considerable against them; and
therefore when he perceived that his labour was but lost in
continuing in those parts, he forthwith retreated, and re-
turned without honour to England. This retreat of King 1094

William
i
* See Camden's Brit- p. 650. Gibson's Edition .—Welsh Chron. p. 152.

114 HISTORY OF WALES.

William was not altogether so favourable to the interest of
the Welsh as the death of William Fitz-Baldwyn, who was
owner of the castle of Rydcors, and who did more injury to
the men of South Wales than any other person. He being
dead, the garrison of Rydcors, which was wont to keep the
Welsh in continual awe, forsook that place, and by that
means gave opportunity to the inhabitants of Gwyr, Breck-
nock, Gwent, and Gwentlhwc, to shake off the intolerable
yoke which the Normans had forced upon them, who, after
they had robbed them of their lands, kept them in con-
tinual subjection. William Fitz-Baldwyn being now, how-
ever, dead, and the garrison of Rydcors scattered, they
ventured to lay violent hands upon the Normans, who
thought themselves free from all danger; and they pre-
vailed so successfully, that they drove them all out of the
country, and recovered their own ancient estates : but the
Normans thus ousted liked that country so well, that they
were resolved not to be so easily deprived of what they had
with a great deal of pains and danger once possessed ; and
therefore having drawn a great number of English and
Normans to their aid, they were anxious to venture another
encounter with the Welsh, and to return, if possible, to
their once acquired habitations. The Welsh, however, so
abhorred their arrogant and tyrannical dominion over them
when they were masters, that they were resolved not to be
subject to such tyrants again; and therefore they boldly
met them at a place called Celly larfawc, and fell upon
them so manfully, (the very apprehension of servitude in-
citing their spirits,) that they put them to flight with great
slaughter, and drove them out of the country. Yet the
Normans were not absolutely routed in this overthrow : for,
like a fly in the night, that destroys itself in the candle,
they must needs seek their own destruction ; and their gree-
diness urging them on to venture that with few which was
not practicable by many, they came as far as Brecknock,
with a vow and determination not to leave one living thing
remaining in that country: but they fell short of their
intention, for the people of the country having placed them-
selves at a narrow strait, expecting their passing through,
as soon as the Normans came up, fell upon them, and killed
a great number of them. About the same time, Roger
Montgomery Earl of Salop and Arundel, William Fitz-
eustace Earl of Gloucester, Arnold de Harecourt, and
Neal le Vicount, were slain by the Welsh between Caerdiff
and Brecknock, and Walter Eureux Earl of Sarum, Rosmer,
Mantilake, and Hugh Earl of Gourney, were wounded,

who

HISTORY OF WALES. 115

who afterwards died in Normandy.* The Normans, finding
that they continually lost ground, thought it not advisable
to stay any longer; and therefore having placed sufficient
garrisons in those castles which they had formerly built,
they returned with what speed they could to England.
Yet all the haste they made could not secure them from the
fury of the Welsh; for Gruffydh and Ifor, the sons of
Ednerth ap Cadogan, waylaid them at a place called Aber-
Ihech, where, falling unexpectedly upon them, they slew the
greatest part of their number, the remainder narrowly
escaping in safety to England : but the Norman garrisons
which were left behind defended themselves with a great
deal of bravery, till at last, finding no prospect of relief,
they were forced for their own safety to deliver up the
fortresses to the Welsh, who from that time became again
proprietors of those places of which the Normans had
dispossessed them. This encouraged the Welsh to under-
take other things against the English; for immediately
after this, certain of the nobility of North Wales, Uchthred
the son of Edwyn ap Grono by name, together with Howel
ap Grono, and the sons of Cadogan ap Blethyn of Powys-
land, passed by Cardigan into Dyved (which country King
William had given to Arnulph son to Roger Montgomery,
who had built thereon the castle of Pembroke, and appointed
Gerald de Windsor governor of the same,)f and destroying
all the country with fire and sword, excepting Pembroke
castle, which was impregnable, they returned home with a
great deal of booty. In return for this, when the lords of
North Wales had retired, Gerald issued out of the castle,
and spoiled all the country about St. David's ; and after he
had obtained much plunder, and taken divers prisoners,
returned to the castle.

The year following, King William returned from Nor- A. D. 1095.
mandy, and having heard how the Welsh had cut off a
great number of his subjects in Wales, gathered all his
power together, and with great pomp and ostentation en-
tered the marches, resolving utterly to eradicate the rebel-
lious and implacable disposition of the Welsh nation : but
after all this boast and seeming resolution, he ventured no
farther than the marches, and having built there some few
castles, he returned with no greater honour than he came.
In the next spring, Hugh de Montgomery Earl of Arundel 1096.
and Salop, by the Welsh named Hugh G6ch,J and Hugh

Fras,
i 2

* Welsh Chron. p. 154. f Ibid.

J Hugh with a red head. •

116 , HISTORY OF WALES.

Fras, or the Fat, Earl of Chester, being invited by some
disaffected Welsh lords, came into North Wales with a very
great army. Prince Gruffydh ap Conan, and Cadogan ap
Blethyn, perceiving themselves to be too weak to oppose so
numerous an army, and, what was worse, suspecting the
fidelity of their own forces, thought it best to take to the
hills and mountains for safety, as the places where they
might remain most secure from the enemy. Then the
English army marched towards Anglesey, and being come
opposite the island, they built the castle of Aberlhiennawc :
but Gruffydh and Cadogan could no longer endure to see
their country over-run by the English, and therefore they
descended from the mountains and came to Anglesey, think-
ing, with what succours they should receive from Ireland,
(of which they were disappointed,) to be able to defend the
island from any attempt that should be made upon it : and
then the whole reason and occasion of the English coming
to Wales was discovered ; for Owen ap Edwyn, the Prince's
chief counsellor, whose daughter Gruffydh had married
(having himself also married Everyth the daughter of
Confyn, aunt to Cadogan), upon some private pique or
other, had requested the English to come into Wales, and
he at this time openly joined his forces with theirs, and led
the whole army over into Anglesey. Gruffydh and Cadogan
finding they were thus betrayed by him that they had
believed to be their dearest friend, for fear of farther
treachery, judged it prudent to sail privately for Ireland;
after whose departure the English fell cruelly to work,
destroying all they could come at, without any respect
either to age or sex.

Whilst the English continued in Anglesey, Magnus the
son of Harold, lately King of England, came over with a
great fleet, intending to take more secure hold upon that
kingdom than his father had done, and to recover the same
to himself: but whilst he steered his course thitherward, he
was driven by contrary winds to the coast of Anglesey,
where he would fain have landed had not the English army
kept him off. In this skirmish Magnus accidentally wound-
ed Hugh Earl of Salop with an arrow in the face, whereof
he died;* and then both armies suddenly relinquished the
A. D. 1097. island, the English returning to England, appointing Owen

ap

* The Norwegian Prince, on seeing him fall, exultingly cried " Let him dance."—
Giraldus Cambrensis, Itin. 6, 7. Simon Dunelme, p. 223.

This accidental stroke of justice, seen by the eye of superstition, made the Welsh to
conclude that the arrow had been directed by the immediate hand of the Almighty. —
Warrington.

HISTORY OF WALES. 117

ap Edwyn, who invited them over, prince of the country.
Owen did not enjoy the principality long; for in the
beginning of the following spring, Gruffydh ap Conan and
Cadogan ap Blethyn returned -from Ireland, and having
concluded a peace with the Normans for some part of their
lands in Wales, Gruffydh remained in Anglesey, and
Cadogan had Cardigan, with part of Powys : but though
Cadogan recovered his estate, yet in a little while after he
lost his son Lhewelyn, who was treacherously murdered by
the men of Brecknock : at which time also died Rythmarch,
Archbishop of St. David, the son of Sulien, being in the
forty-third year of his age ; a man of greater piety, wisdom,
and learning than had flourished for a long period in Wales,
excepting his father, under whose tutelage he was edu-
cated. The year following, King William Rufus, as he 1098.
was hunting in the New Forest, was accidentally slain with
an arrow, which one Walter Tyrrel shot at a stag ; and his
eldest brother being then engaged in the Holy War, Henry,
his younger brother, whom in his life-time he had nomi-
nated his successor, was crowned in his stead. The same
year, Hugh Earl of Chester, Grono ap Cadogan, and Gwyn
ap Gruffydh, departed this life.

About two years after, a rebellion broke out in England ; noo.
Robert de Belesmo, the son of Roger de Montgomery
Earl of Salop, and Arnulph his brother, Earl of Pembroke,
took up arms against King Henry ; which he being informed
of, sent them a very gracious message to come before him
and declare their grievances, and the reason of their rising
up in arms against his Majesty : but the Earls, instead of
appearing in person, sent him slight and frivolous excuses,
and in the mean while made all necessary preparations for
the war, both by raising offerees and fortifying their castles
and strongholds. And to strengthen themselves the more,
they sent rich presents, and made large promises to lorwerth,
Cadogan, and Meredith, the sons of Blethyn ap Confyn, to
bring them to their side. Robert fortified four castles,
namely, Arundel, Tekinhil, Shrewsbury, and Brugge;
which last, by reason that Robert built it without the con-
sent of the king, was the chief occasion of this war ; and
Arnulph fortified his castle at Pembroke. After this, they
entered in an hostile manner into the territories of the
King of England, wasting and destroying all before them ;
and to augment their strength, Arnulph sent Gerald his
steward to Murkart King oflreland, desiring his daughter
in wedlock ; which was readily granted, with the promise
too of great succours and large supplies. King Henry, to

put

118 HISTORY OF WALES.

put a stop to their bold adventures, marched in person
against them, and, laying siege to the castle of Arundel, won
it without any great opposition ; and quickly afterwards the
pastle of Tekinhill ; but that of Brugge, by reason of the
situation of the place, and the depth of the ditch about it,
seemed to require longer time and harder service; and
therefore King Henry was advised to send privately to
lorwerth ap Blethyn, promising him great rewards if he
forsook the Earls' part and came over to him, urging to
him what mischief Roger, Earl Robert's father, and his
brother Hugh, had continually done to the Welshmen:
and to make him the more willing to accept his proposals,
he promised to give him all such lands as the Earl and his
brother had in Wales, without either tribute or homage;
which was a part of Powys, Cardigan, and half Dyved, the
other part being in the possession of William Fitz-Baldwyn.
lorwerth receiving these offers, accepted them very gladly,
and then coming to the king, he sent all his forces to Earl
Robert's lands, who, having received very strict orders,
destroyed without mercy every thing they met with ; and
what made the spoil the greater, Earl Robert, upon his
rebelling against King Henry, had caused his people to
convey all their goods to Wales for fear of the English, not
thinking how his father's memory sounded among the
Welsh. When the news of lorwerth's revolt reached the
ears of the Earl, and of Cadogan and Meredith, lorwerth's
brothers, their spirits began to faint, as despairing any
longer to oppose the king, since lorwerth, who was the
person of greatest power in Wales, had left and forsaken
them. Arnulph was gone to Ireland to fetch home his
wife, and to bring over what succour his father-in-law,
King Murkart, could afford to send him ; but he not coming
in time, some other method was to be tried, in order to
obtain aid against the English. A little before this rebel-
lion broke out, Magnus, Harold's son, landed the second
time in the Isle of Anglesey, and being kindly received by
GrufFydh ap Conan, he had leave to cut down what timber
he had need for; and so returning to the Isle of Man, which
he had got by conquest, he built there three castles, and
then sent to Ireland to have the daughter of Murkart in
marriage to his son, which being obtained, he created him
King of Man. Earl Robert hearing this, sent to Magnus
for aid against King Henry ; but receiving none, he thought
it high time to look to his own safety ; and therefore he sent
to the king, requesting that he might quietly depart the
kingdom, in case he should lay down his arms, which the

king

HISTORY OF WALES. 119

king having granted, he sailed to Normandy: and then
King Henry sent an express to his brother Arnulph, re-
quiring him either to follow his brother out of the kingdom
or to deliver himself up to his mercy ; and so Arnulph went
over also to Normandy. When the king was returned to
London, lorwerth took his brother Meredith prisoner, and
committed him to the king's custody; his other brother
Cadogan having reconciled himself beforehand, to whom
lorwerth gave Cardigan, with a part of Powys. Then
lorwerth went to London, to put the king in mind of his
promise, and the service he had done him against Earl
Robert; but the king finding that now all matters were
quiet, was deaf to all such remembrances, and instead of
promising what he had once voluntarily proposed, he, con-
trary to all rules of equity and gratitude, took away Dyfed
from lorwerth, and gave it to a knight of his own called
Saer ; and Straty wy, Cydwely, and Gwyr, he bestowed upon
Howel ap Grono, and sent lorwerth away more empty than
he came : nor was this sufficient reward for his former serv-
ices,— for the next year King Henry sent some of his council A. D. 1101.
to Shrewsbury, and cited lorwerth to appear there, under
pretence of consulting about the king's business and affairs
of those parts; but the plot was laid deeper, and when,
without any suspicion of treachery, he made his appearance,
he was, to his great surprise, attainted of high treason, and,
contrary to all right and justice, actually condemned to
perpetual imprisonment ;* the true reason of this unparaL
leled severity being, that the king feared his strength, and
was apprehensive that he would revenge the wrong and
affront he had received at his hands : and indeed well had
he reason to fear that, when he so ungratefully treated him
by whose service he had experienced such great advantages.
But the policy of princes is unaccountable ; and whether to
value an eminent person for his service, or to fear him for
his greatness, is a subject that frequently disturbs their
most settled considerations. The noblemen that were at
this time sent by the king to Shrewsbury, were Richard de
Belmersh,f who being a chief agent of Roger Montgomery
Earl of Salop, was preferred to the bishoprick of London,
and afterwards appointed by that king to be warden of the
marches, and governor of the county of Salop. With him
were joined in company, Walter Constable, the father of
Milo, Earl of Hereford, and Rayner, the king's lieutenant
in the county of Salop. About this time, as Bale writes,
the church of Menevia or St. David began to be subject to

the
* Welsh Chron. 159, 160. f Richard de Belmarsh.

120 HISTORY OF WALES.

the see of Canterbury, being always previously the metro-
politan church of all Wales.

A. D. 1102. Shortly after this, Owen ap Edwyn, who had been author
of no small mischief and disturbance to the Welsh in
moving the English against his natural prince and son-in-
law Gruffydh ap Conan, departed this life, after a tedious
and miserable sickness ; of which he was so much the less
pitied by how much he had proved an enemy and a traitor
to his native country. Edwyn was the son of Grono by his
wife Edelflede, the widow of Edmund, surnamed Ironside,
King of England ; and had the title of Tegengl ; though
the English, when they had compelled Gruffydh ap Conan
to flee to Ireland for safety, constituted him Prince of all
North Wales. After his death, Richard Fitz-Baldwyn laid
siege to and took the castle of Rydcors, and forcibly drove
Howel ap Grono, to whom King Henry had committed the
custody of it, out of the country. But Howel quickly re-
turned, and, with a high spirit of revenge, began to destroy
and burn whatsoever he could meet with, and then meeting
a party of the Normans in their return homeward, he fell
upon the flank of them with a very considerable slaughter ;
and so brought all the country to his subjection, excepting
some few garrisons and castles which would not surrender
to him. At the same time King Henry took away from
Saer the government of Dyfed, which formerly was lorwerth
ap Blethyn's, and bestowed it upon Gerald, who had been
some time Earl Arnulph's steward in those parts; and
therefore, by reason of his knowledge of the country, was in
all probability best able to take upon himself the manage-
ment of it: but the Normans in Rydcors castle being
sensible that they were not able to effect any thing against
Howel ap Grono in open field, after their accustomed man-
ner, began to put that in execution by treachery which they
could not compass by force of arms ; and that they might
make Howel a sacrifice for those Normans he had lately
slain, they could find no safer way than by corrupting one
Gwgan ap Meyric, a man in great favour and esteem with
Howel, upon the account chiefly that one of his children
was nursed by Gwgan's wife. This ungrateful villain, to
carry on his wicked intrigue the' more unsuspected, gave
Howel a very earnest invitation to his house to a merriment,
where, without any suspicion of treachery, being come, he
was welcomed with all the seeming affection and kindness
imaginable: but no sooner was he arrived, than Gwgan
gave notice thereof to the Norman garrisons ; and by break
pf day they entered the town, and coming about the house

xvhere

HISTORY OF WALES. 121

where Howel lay in bed, they presently gave a great shout.
Howel hearing the noise, suspected something of mischief,
and therefore leaping in all haste out of bed, he made to his
weapons, but could not find them, by reason that Gwgan
had conveyed them away whilst he was asleep; and 'now
being assured of treachery in the case, and finding that his
men had fled for their lives, he endeavoured all he could to
make his escape, but Gwgan and his company were too
quick for him, and so being secured they strangled him,
and delivered his body to the Normans, who having cut off
his head conveyed it to the castle of Rydcors. This most
villainous murder, so barbarously committed upon the king's
lieutenant, was not in the least taken notice of; for King
Henry was so unreasonably prejudiced in favour of the
Normans, that whatever misdemeanor, be it of never so
high a nature, was by them committed, it was presently
winked at and let pass without notice; whereas, if the
Welsh trespassed but against the least injunction of the
king's laws, they were most severely punished, which was
the cause that they afterwards stood up against the king in
their own defence, being by experience assured that he
intended, if possible, their utter destruction.

About this time Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, con-
vened a synod at London, wherein, among other injunctions
then decreed, the celibacy of the clergy was enjoined ; mar-
riage being at all times previously allowed in Britain to
those in holy orders. This new injunction created a great
deal of heat and animosity among the clergy, some approving
of it as reasonable and orthodox, others condemning it as
an innovation and contrary to the plain letter of scripture.
During these disputes between the clergy, King Henry,
being now in the fifth year of his reign, sailed over with a
great army into Normandy, where his brother Robert, to-
gether with Robert de Belesmo, Arnulph, and William
Earl of Mortaign, gave him battle ; but the king having
obtained the victory, took the duke his brother, with
William of Mortaign, prisoners, and carrying them into
England, he caused first his brother Robert's eyes to be
plucked out, and then condemned them both to perpetual
imprisonment in the castle of CardyfF. About the same A, D. 1104.
time, Meyric and GrufFydh, the sons of Trahaern ap
Caradoc, were both slain by the means of Owen ap Cadogan
ap Blethyn, whose uncle Meredith ap Blethyn, who had
been prisoner for a long time in England, now broke open
the prison, wherein he was very narrowly confined, and
returning to his own country, had his estate restored, which
afterwards he quietly enjoyed.

The

122 HISTORY OF WALES.

A. D.l 105. The next year a very dismal and calamitous accident
happening in the Low Countries, proved very incommodious
and prejudicial to the Welsh ; for a great part of Flanders
being drowned by the overflowing of the sea, the inhabit-
ants were compelled to seek for some other country to
dwell in, their own being now covered with water; and
therefore a great many being come over to England, they
requested King Henry to assign them some part of his
kingdom which was waste and void of inhabitants, where
they might settle and plant themselves. The king taking
advantage of this charitable opportunity, and being in a
manner assured that these Flemings would be a considerable
thorn in the side of the Welsh, bestowed upon them very
liberally what was not justly in his power to give, and
appointed them the country of Rhos, in Dyfed or West
Wales, where they continue to this day: but Gerald, the
king's lieutenant in those parts, was resolved to be afore-
hand with them, and rebuilt the castle of Pembroke, in a
place called Congarth Fechan; whither he removed his
1106. family and all his goods. Here a very unfortunate accident
happened to him ; for Cadwgan ap Blethyn having prepared
a sumptuous feast in the Christmas, invited all the lords to
his country house in Dyfed, and among the rest his son
Owen, who lived in Powys. This youug gentleman being
at his father's house, and hearing Nest the wife of Gerald
universally praised for her incomparable beauty, was so
smitten with the rumour that went abroad of her, that by all
means he must see the lady who was by all so much ad-
mired:* and forasmuch as Gwladys, wife to Rhys ap
Theodore, and mother to Nest, was the daughter of Ry wal-
hon ap Confyn, cousin-german to Cadwgan his father,
under pretence of friendship and relation he made bold
to pay her a visit. Finding the truth far to surpass the
fame that went of her, he returned home so inflamed with
her charms, that, not being able to keep the mastery over
himself, he went back again the same night, and being at-
tended by a company of wild, head -strong youths, they
privily entered the castle, and encompassing the chamber
where Gerald and his wife lay, they set the house on fire.
Gerald hearing a noise, would fain go out to know the
meaning of such unseasonable disturbance; but his wife,

fearing

* Nest was the sister of Gruffydh ap Rhys, had been the mistress of Henry the First,
and brought him his son, Robert of Gloucester, who was very eminent as a soldier, a
statesman, and scholar. He was the instrument of restoring his nephew, Henry, to the
throne of England, although that event took place after Gloucester's death. Geoffrey
of Monmouth dedicates to him his latin translation of Tysilio. Robert was a friend
of learning and learned men in that early age of English literature : William of Malmes-
bury, the poet and historian, was patronised by him.

HISTORY OF WALES. 123

fearing some treachery, persuaded him to make as private
an escape as he could, and then, pulling up a board in the
privy, let him go that way ; then returning to her chamber,
she assured those audacious youths that there was no body
besides herself and children there; but this not being
satisfactory, they forcibly broke in, and having searched
every the most private corner and not finding Gerald, they
took his wife and two sons, with a son and a daughter born
by a concubine, and carried them away to Powys, having
first set fire to the castle, and destroyed the country as they
went along. Cadwgan, Owen's father, hearing of the out-
rageous crime his son had committed, was exceedingly
concerned and sorry, and chiefly because hereby he was
likely to incur King Henry's great displeasure ; and there-
fore he went with all speed to Powys, and intreated his son
to send home to Gerald his wife and children, with what-
ever else he had taken away from him : but Owen was so
amorously inexorable with respect to the woman, that he
would by no means part with her; however, upon her
request, he was willing to restore Gerald his children again,
which forthwith he performed.* When Richard, Bishop of
London, whom King Henry had constituted Warden of
the Marches, and who was now at Shrewsbury, heard of
this, he sent for Ithel and Madoc, the sons of Ryryd ap
Blethyn, persons of great power and interest in Wales,
promising them very considerable rewards, besides the
government of the whole country, in case they could bring
Owen and his father Cadwgan, either dead or alive, to him,
that he might revenge that heinous affront which they had
done to the King of England. With them he joined Lhy-
warch the son of Trahaern ap Caradoc, whose two brethren
Owen had slain, and Uchtryd, the son of Edwyn ; which
four undertook to answer effectually the bishop's proposal
to them : but when they had united their forces, and began
in an hostile manner to destroy the country as they passed
along, Uchtryd sent private notice before him, requiring all
who were any way desirous of their own safety to come to
him, because no quarter was to be given to any that were
found in the country. The people being thus so oppor-
tunely forewarned, began to bethink with themselves how
they might best avoid so imminent a danger, and thereupon
some fled to Arustly, others to Melienyth, some to Strad-
tywy, and some to Dyfed ; but in this latter place they met
with cold welcome, for Gerald, who was then very busy in
exercising revenge upon that country, falling in among them,
put off a considerable number of them. The like fate

befel

* Welsh Chron. p. 164,

124 HISTORY OF WALES.

befel those who escaped to Arustly and Melienyth; for
Walter Bishop of Hereford having raised an army in defence
of the town of Caermyrdhyn, before he could come thither,
accidentally met with these straggling fugitives, and know-
ing to what country they belonged, without any further
ceremony, he fell upon them and put most of them to the
sword. They who fled to Stradtywy were kindly received
by Meredith ap Rytherch ; and such as resorted to Uchtryd
were as kindly entertained by him; and so he marched
with the rest of his confederates to Rydcors castle, it being
the general opinion that it was best to enter the country
by night, and to take Cadwgan and Owen his son by
surprise : but Uchtryd reflecting upon the difficulty of the
country, and how easily they might be entrapped by an
ambuscade, dissuaded them from any such nocturnal under-
takings, and told them that it was far more advisable to
enter the country in good order, when the light gave the
soldiers opportunity to keep and observe their ranks.
Whilst they were thus considering of the most effectual
way to carry on their purpose, Owen got a ship at Aber-
dyfi, bound for Ireland, and escaping thither, avoided the
narrow search that was the following day made for them.
When, therefore, father nor son could be found, all the
fault was laid upon Uchtryd, who had dissuaded them from
falling upon the castle unexpectedly; and, therefore, all
that his companions could do, since their escape, was to
burn and destroy the country, which they did effectually,
excepting the two sanctuaries of Lhanpadarn and Lhandewi
Brefi ; out of which, however, they took several persons
who had escaped thither, and carried them away prisoners
to their several countries : but Owen, with those who were
accessary to the burning of Rydcors castle, being fled to
Ireland, desired the favour and protection of King Murcart,
who received him very gladly, upon the account of their
former acquaintance ; for Owen, during the war betwixt the
Earls of Arundel and Chester and the Welsh, had fled to
King Murcart, and brought him very rich presents from
Wales. Cadwgan all this while lay privately in Powys;
but thinking it impossible to continue there long undis-
covered, he adjudged it his wiser way to send to King
Henry, and to declare his innocency and abhorrence of the
crime which his son had committed. The King was easily
persuaded that the old man was guiltless and wholly inno-
cent of his son's offence ; and therefore he gave him permis-
sion to remain in the country, and to enjoy the town and
lands he received by his wife, who was the daughter of a

Norman

HISTORY OF WALES. 125

Norman lord, called Pygot de Say : but his lands in Powys
were otherwise distributed; for his nephews, Madoc and
Ithel, finding what circumstances their uncle Cadwgan lay
under upon the account of his son Owen, divided betwixt
themselves such lands as he and his son possessed in Powys,
though afterwards they could never agree about the equal dis-
tribution of them. To counterbalance this, Cadwgan made
such successful application to the King of England, that,
upon paying the fine of £100, he had a grant of all his lands
in Cardigan, and a power to recall all the inhabitants who
had fled away upon the publication of the king's late order,
that no Welshman or Norman should dwell in Cardigan.
Upon information of this grant to Cadwgan, several of them
that retired to Ireland returned again privately to Wales,
and lurkingly remained with their friends ; but Owen durst
not appear in Cardigan, by reason that his father had
received that country from King Henry, upon condition
that he would never entertain nor receive his son, nor by
any means succour him either with men or money. Never-
theless, Owen came to Powys, and would fain be reconciled
to the king, and make an atonement for his late misde-
meanor, but he could find nobody that would venture to
speak in his behalf, nor make the king acquainted with his
desire and willingness to submit : and thus being hopeless
and full of despair, he could not possibly divine which way
to turn himself, till at last a very unexpected opportunity
offered him means and occasion to oppose the English.
The matter was this, there happened a difference betwixt
•Madoc ap Ryryd* and the Bishop of London, Lieutenant of
the Marches of Wales, about certain English felons whom
(being under the protection of Madoc) he would not restore
at the bishop's request. The bishop being much offended
at Madoc's denial, threatened him very severely; and
therefore to make all possible preparations against an
ensuing storm, Madoc sent to Owen, who heretofore was
his greatest enemy, desiring his help against the bishop ;
and by this means being reconciled, they took their mutual
oaths not to betray each other, and that neither should make
a separate agreement with the English without the know-
ledge and approbation of the other; and so uniting their
power, they spoiled and ravaged all the country about them,
destroying whatever they could meet with which belonged
to those they had no kindness or affection for, without the
least distinction of English or Welsh.

lorwerth ap Blethyn had been very unjustly detained in A. D. 1107.

prison
* Ap Bleddyn ap Cyuvyn.

126 HISTORY OF WALES.

prison all this time ; and now King Henry calling to mind
what hardship he laboured under, and that he committed
him to custody without any reasonable pretence, sent to
know of him what he was willing to pay for his liberty,
lorwerth being now almost ready to sink under the fatigue
of such a long imprisonment, was glad to give any thing he
was able to obtain that which he had so long in vain hoped
for ; and therefore he promised either £300 in specie, or to
the value of it in cattle and horses, for the payment of
which lorwerth and Ithel, the sons of his brother Ryryd,
were delivered for pledges.* Then the king released him
out of prison, and restored him all his lands which were
taken from him ; and of the due for his liberty, the king
bestowed £10 upon Henry, Cadwgan's son by the daughter
of Pygot de Say, the Norman. Owen and Madawc all this
while committed all the waste and destruction possible, and
cruelly annoyed both the English and Normans, and always
withdrew and retired to lorwerth's estate, which so troubled
him, by reason of the king's strict orders not to permit
Owen to come to his or Cadwgan's territories, that at length
he sent to them this positive and peremptory rebuke : —
f ' Since it hath pleased God to place us in the midst of our
enemies, and to deliver us into their hands ; and hath so
far weakened us, as that we are not able to do any thing of
our own strength; and your father Cadwgan and myself
are particularly commanded, under penalty of forfeiting
our lands and estates, not to afford you any succour or
refuge during these your rebellious practices ; therefore, as
a friend I entreat you, command you as a lord, and desire
you as a kinsman, that you come no more to mine or your
father Cadwgan's territories."

Owen and Madawc receiving such a peremptory message,
were the more enraged, and by way of malignant retribution,
did more frequently than heretofore shelter themselves in
lorwerth's country ; insomuch, that at last, since that they
would neither by threats nor intreaties desist from their
wonted courses, he was forced to gather his power and
drive them out by force of arms. Being chased out hence,
they made inroads into Uchtryd's country in Merioneth-
shire ; but Uchtryd's sons being then in Cyveilioc, and
hearing of it, they sent to the people of the country, with
positive orders to oppose and resist any offer they might
make to enter the country. The people, though wanting a
skilful commander, were resolved to do as much as lay in
their power ; and so meeting with them by the way, they

set

* Welsh Chron. pp. 165, 166,. 107, 168.

HISTORY OF WALES. 127

set upon them so furiously, that Owen and Madawc, after a
brave defence, were forced to retreat and take to their
heels; Owen fled to Cardigan to his father Cadwgan, and
Madawc to Powys. Yet all these misfortunes could not
suppress the restless spirit of Owen; for as soon as he
could rally together his scattered troops, he made divers
inroads into Dyfed, and carrying away several persons to
the ships that he had brought with him from Ireland, he
first took a ransom of them, and then listing them under
his own command, made such addition to his army, that he
ventured to set upon a town in Dyfed, belonging to the
Flemings, and having rased it to the ground, he returned to
Cardigan, having no regard as to what inconvenience might
befal his father from the king of England upon this account,
which a little afterwards fell out : for it happened that some
of Owen's men having had intelligence, that a certain bishop
called William de Brabant was upon his journey through
that country to the court of England, they laid wait for his
coming, who, without any apprehension of treachery, passing
through the country, was unexpectedly slain, he and all his
retinue.* lorwerth and Cadwgan were then at court to
speak with King Henry concerning certain business of their
own :f but whilst they discoursed with the king, in came a
Fleming, who was a brother to the deceased bishop, and
with a very loud exclamation, complained how that Owen,
Cadwgan's son, had slain his brother and the rest of his
company; and that he was succoured and entertained in
Cadwgan's country. King Henry hearing this, was wrath-
fully displeased at such outrageous barbarity, and that a
person of such quality and profession should be so treacher-
ously murdered ; and therefore he asked Cadwgan what he
could say to the matter, who answered, that what had so
unhappily fell out was done without the least knowledge or
approbation on his part, and therefore desired his Majesty
to impute all the blame and guilt of that unfortunate trans-
action to his son Owen. King Henry was so far from being
satisfied with this reply, that he told Cadwgan in a violent
passion, that since he could not prevent his son being aided
and entertained in his country, he would bestow it upon
another person, who was better able and more willing to
keep him out; and would allow him a maintenance upon
his own proper charges, upon these conditions, that he
•should not enter Wales any more without his further orders ;
and so granting him twenty days for the ordering his affairs,
he gave him liberty to retire to any part of his dominions

except
* Welsh Chron. pp. 166, 167, 168. t IbicL

128 HISTORY OF WALES.

except Wales. When Owen and Madawc were informed
how Cadwgan was treated by the king of England, and that
Cardigan, which was their chief place of refuge, was to
be given to another person, they thought that their condi-
tion by this time was desperate, and that they had better
not stay any longer in Britain; and therefore with all
speed they took shipping for Ireland, where they were sure
to be honourably entertained by King Murkart. Then
King Henry sent for Gilbert Strongbow Earl of Strygill, a
person of noted worth and valour, and one who had often
sued to the king to grant him some lands in Wales, and
bestowed upon him all the lands and inheritance of Cadwgan
ap Blethyn, in case he could conquer and bring the country
under. Gilbert very thankfully accepted the proposal, and
having drawn together all the forces he was able to raise,
he passed to Wales, and being come to Cardigan without
the least trouble or opposition, he reduced the whole coun-
try to his subjection. The first thing he did was the best
he could to secure himself in this new purchased inherit-
ance ; in order to which he erected two castles, one upon
the frontiers of North Wales, upon the mouth of the river
Ystwyth, a mile distant from Llanbadarn; the other to-
wards Dyfed, upon the river Teifi, at a place called
Dyngeraint, where, as some think, Roger Montgomery had
some time before laid the foundation of Cilgarran castle.*

Owen and Madawc were all this while in Ireland ; but
the latter being at length tired of the country, and not
willing to endure the manners and customs of the Irish,
came over to Wales, and passed to the country of his uncle
lorwerth. lorwerth being acquainted with his arrival, was
fearful lest he should suffer the same fate as his brother
Cadwgan, if he permitted his being there ; and, therefore,
without any regard to relation or consanguinity, he pre-
sently issued a proclamation, forbidding any of his subjects,
under a great penalty, to receive him, but that they should
account him an open enemy to their country, and endeavour
all they could to secure Madawc and to bring him prisoner
before him. When Madawc understood this, and that his
person was in continual danger whilst he remained there,
having drawn to him all the outlaws and villains in the
country, he kept in the rocks and mountains, devising all
the ways and means he could to be revenged upon lorwerth ;
and so made a private league and agreement with Lhywarch
ap Trahaern, who for a long time had been a mortal enemy
of lorwerth. These two associates, having intelligence

that

* Welsh Chron. p. 169.

HISTORY OF WALES. 129

that lorwerth lay one night at Caereineon,* gathered all
their strength, and came and encompassed the house at
midnight, which when lorwerth's servants perceived, they
arose and defended the house with all the might they
could ; but the assailants at last putting the house on fire,
they were glad, as many as could, to escape through the
flames, the greatest part being forced to yield, either to the
enemy's sword or the more conquering fire. lorwerth seeing
no remedy, but that he must undergo the same fate as his
men had done, chose rather to die in the presence of his
enemies with his sword in his hand, than cowardly to com-
mit his life to the flames ; and therefore rushing out with
great violence, he was received upon the points of the
enemies' spears, and being by them tossed into the flames,
he miserably perished by a double death. As soon as King
Henry heard of his death, he sent for Cadwgan to him, and
gave him all his brother's estate, being Powys-land; and
promising his son Owen his pardon, upon condition that he
would demean himself quiety and loyally hereafter, willed
him to send for him back from Ireland, f King Henry also
about this time married his natural son Robert to Mabil,
daughter and sole heir to Robert Fitz-hamon, Lord of Gla-
morgan, in whose right this Robert became Lord of Glamor-
gan, being before by the king created Earl of Gloucester,
by whom the castle of Cardiff was built.

But Madawc finding the matter nothing mended, and that
his other uncle Cadwgan, who lay under the same obliga-
tion to the King of England, ruled the country, hid himself
in the most private and inaccessible places, watching only an
opportunity to commit the like crime upon Cadwgan, and
to murder him by one treacherous way or another. And
this he effected in a little time ; for Cadwgan having reduced
the country to some sort of settlement and quietness, and
restored the courts of judicature, where he sat in person to
administer justice, came with the rest of the elders of the
country to Trallwng, now Pool,J and having begun to A. D. 1109.
build a castle, he thought to make that the constant seat
of his habitation. Madawc understanding his design, laid
in ambush for him in his way to Trallwng, and as Cadwgan
unconcernedly passed by without the least suspicion of
treachery, he suddenly set upon him, and slew him, without

allowing

* Castle Caereinion. f Welsh Chron. 170, 171.

I Welsh Pool, in Montgomeryshire.

130 HISTORY OF WALES.

allowing him any time either to fight or escape.* Then he
sent presently a message to Shrewsbury, to the Bishop of
London, the king's lieutenant in the marches, to put him in
mind of his former promises to him, when he chased Owen
out of the country ; because that the bishop, bearing an
inveterate enmity towards Cadwgan and his son Owen,
granted Madawc such lands as his brother Ithel was pos-
sessed of. But Meredith ap Blethyn, being informed of the
death of both his brothers, went in all haste to the king,
desiring of him the lands of lorwerth in Powys, which he
had lately bestowed upon Cadwgan; which the king
granted him, until such time as Owen should return from
Ireland. Owen was not long before he came over, and then
going to King Henry, he was honourably received, and had
all his father's estate restored to him ; whereupon, in grati-
tude for this signal favour, he voluntarily promised to pay
the king a considerable fine,f for the due payment of which
he gave very responsible pledges. Madawc, finding himself
left alone in the lurch, and that he had no seeming power to
bear head against the king, thought it also his wisest way to
make what reconciliation he could ; and therefore he offered
the king a very great fine if he should peaceably enjoy his
former estate, promising withal never to molest or disturb
any one that was subject to the crown of England. King
Henry, willing to bring all matters to a settled condition,
readily granted his request, and conferred upon him all he
could reasonably ask for ; only with this proviso, that, upon
his peril, he should provide for the relations of those whom
he had so basely murdered.

A. D. 1109. And thus all matters being brought to a peaceable con-
clusion in Wales, the next year Robert de Belesmo, who
had been one of the chief instruments in these Welsh
disturbances, in that great rebellion which himself, with
Roger de Montgomery Earl of Salop, and his brother,
Arnulph Earl of Pembroke, had raised against the king,
was taken prisoner by King Henry in Normandy, and
committed to perpetual imprisonment in Warham Castle.
1110. The year following, Meredith ap Blethyn detached a consi-
derable party of his men to make incursions into the country
of Lhy warch ap Trahaern ap Gwyn, who was an inveterate
enemy of himself and Owen ; because by his aid and insti-
gation Madawc was encouraged to kill his uncles lorwerth

and

* Thus died, after a variety of misfortunes, Cadwgan, the son of Bleddyn ap Cynvyn,
dignified by Camden with the title of the renowned Briton ; a prince whose valour, sense
of justice, and other milder virtues, might, in any age but this, have exempted him from
?v death so cruel and so unworthy of his character.

f Welsh Chron. p. 170,171.

HISTORY OF WALES. 131

and Cadwgan. These men, as they passed through Ma-
dawc's country, met a person in the night-time who belonged
to Madawc, who being asked where his master was, after
some pretence of ignorance, at last through fear confessed
that he was not far from that place ; therefore, lying quietly
there all night, by break of day they arose to look out their
game ; and unexpectedly surprising Madawc, they slew a
great number of his men, and took himself prisoner ; and so
carrying him to their Lord, they delivered him up, as the
greatest honour of their expedition. Meredith was not a
little proud of his prisoner, and therefore, to ingratiate
himself the more with his nephew Owen, he committed
him to safe custody, till he was sent for ; who coming
thither immediately, Meredith delivered Madawc up to
him. Owen, though he had the greatest reason for the
most cruel revenge, because both his father and uncle were
basely murdered by this Madawc, would not put him to
death, remembering the intimate friendship and oaths which
had passed betwixt them ; but to prevent him from doing
any future mischief, he pulled out his eyes, and then set him
at liberty.* Lest, however, he should be capable of any
revenge by reason of his estate and strength in the country,
Meredith and Owen thought fit to divide his lands betwixt
them; which were Carnarvon, Aber-rhiw, with the third
part of Deuthwfyr.

These home-bred disturbances being pretty well abated, A.D. nil.
a greater storm arose from abroad ; for the next year King
Henry prepared a mighty army to enter into Wales, being
provoked thereto by the request of those who enjoyed a

treat part of the Welshmen's lands, but would not be satis-
ed till they got all. For Gilbert Strongbow, Earl of
Strygill, upon whom the king had bestowed Cardigan,
made great complaints of Owen ap Cadwgan, declaring that
he received and entertained such persons as spoiled and
robbed in his country, and Hugh Earl of Chester made the
like of Gruflfydh ap Conan, Prince of North Wales, that his
subjects and the men of Grono ap Owen ap Edwyn, Lord
of Tegengl, unreproved, wasted and burnt the country of
Cheshire ; and to aggravate the matter, he added further,
that Gruffydh neither did any service, nor paid any tribute
to the king. Upon these complaints, King Henry was so
much enraged that he swore he would not leave one living
creature remaining in North Wales and Powys-land, but
that he would utterly extirpate the present race of people,

K 2 and

* Welsh Chron. 172. — Incidents like these, arising from the collision of contending
•parties, present, in sanguinary tints, a lively picture of barbarism.

132 HISTORY OF WALES.

and would plant a colony of new inhabitants. Then, divid-
ing his army into three parts, he delivered one to the conduct
of the Earl of Strygill, to go against South Wales, which
comprehended the whole power of the fourth part of Eng-
land and Cornwall ; the next division was designed against
North Wales, in which was all the strength of Scotland and
the North, and was commanded by Alexander King of the
Scots and Hugh Earl of Chester ; the third the king led
himself against Powys, and in this was contained the whole
strength of the middle part of England. Meredith ap
Blethyn hearing of these mighty preparations, and being
informed that this vast army was designed against Wales,
was apprehensive that the Welsh were not able to make any
great defence, and therefore thought it his safest way to
provide for himself beforehand, and so coming to the king,
yielded himself up to his mercy. But Owen, fearing to
commit himself to those whom he knew so greedily coveted
his estate, and whom he was assured were far more desirous
to dispossess the Welsh of their lands than in any other way
to punish them for former crimes and miscarriages, fled to
Gruffydh ap Conan in North Wales. Upon that King
Henry converted his whole force that way, and came himself
as far as Murcastelh, and the Scotch king to Pennant
Bachwy, but the people flying to the mountains carried
with them all the cattle and provision they had, so that the
English could not follow them, and as many as attempted to
come at them were either slain or wounded in the streights.
Alexander King of the Scots finding that nothing could
possibly be effected against the Welsh as long as they kept
to the rocks and mountains, sent to Prince Gruffydh, ad-
vising him to submit himself to the king, promising him all
his interest to obtain an honourable peace : but the prince
was too well acquainted with English promises, and there-
fore refused his proposals ; and so King Henry, being very
unwilling to return without doing something in this expe-
dition, sent to Owen to forsake the prince, who was not
able to defend himself, but was ready to strike a peace
with the Scottish king and the Earl of Chester. This
cunning insinuation, however, did not take effect, for Owen
was as distrustful of King Henry as Prince GrufFydh, and
therefore he would hearken to no intreaties to revolt from
him who had so long afforded him refuge ; till at length his
uncle Meredith, an old insinuating politician, persuaded
him, with much ado, not to neglect the king of England's
proposals, who offered him all his lands without tribute, in
case he would come to his side ; and Meredith advised him

instantly

HISTORY OF WALES. 133

instantly to accept of his offer, before Prince Gruffydh made
a peace with the king, which if it was once done, he would
be glad upon any score to purchase the king's mercy.
Owen being prevailed upon by such arguments, came to the
king, who received him very graciously, and told him, that
because he believed his promise, he would not only perform
that, but likewise exalt him above any of his kindred, and
grant him his lands free from any payment of tribute.
Prince Gruffydh perceiving that Owen submitted to the
king, thought it also his wisest way to sue for peace ; and so
promising the king a great sum of money, a peace was then
actually agreed upon and confirmed, which the king of Eng-
land was the more ready to consent to, because he found it
impossible to do him any hurt whilst he continued encamped
in that place. Some affirm that the submission, as well of
Prince Gruffydh as of Owen, was procured by the policy of
Meredith ap Blethyn and the Earl of Chester; this last
working with Gruffydh, and assuring him that Owen had
made his peace with the king before any such thing was in
agitation, so that the prince yielding somewhat to the earl's
request, if Owen had gone contrary to the oath which they
had mutually taken, not to make any peace with the English
without one another's knowledge, seemed to incline to a
peace. On the other hand, Meredith going to his nephew
Owen, affirmed for truth that the prince and the Earl of
Chester were actually agreed, and the prince was on his
journey to the king to make his submission. In the mean-
while Meredith took especial care that all messengers
betwixt the prince and Owen should be intercepted, and by
that means Owen submitted himself to the king.

King Henry having thus completed all his business in
Wales, called Owen to him, and told him that in case he
would go over with him to Normandy, and there be faithful
to him, he would upon his return confirm all his promises
upon him. Owen accepted the king's offer, and went with
him to Normandy, where he behaved himself so gallantly,
that he was made a knight ; and after his return the year
following, he had all his lands and estate confirmed unto
him. About the same time Griffri bishop of St. David's A. D. 11 12.
died, and King Henry appointed to succeed him one Bar-
nard a Norman, much against the good-will and inclination
of the Welsh, who before this time were ever used to elect
their own bishop. This year the rumour of Gruffydh, son
to Rhys ap Theodore, was spread throughout South Wales,
who, as the report went, for fear of the king, had been from
a child brought up in Ireland, and having come over about

two

134 HISTORY OF WALES.

two years before, passed his time privately among his re-
lations, particularly with Gerald, Steward of Pembroke, his
brother-in-law. The noise of a new prince being spread
abroad, it came at last to the ears of the King of England,
that a certain person had appeared in Wales, who pretended
to be the son of Rhys ap Theodore, late Prince of South
Wales, and laid claim to that principality, which was now in
the king's hands. King Henry being somewhat concerned
with such a report, and fearing lest this new rival should
create him some greater trouble, he thought to nip him in
the bud, and sent down orders to apprehend him : but
Gruffydh ap Rhys being aware of the traps laid against him,
sent to Gruffydh ap Gonan, Prince of South Wales, desiring
his assistance, and that he might have liberty to remain safe
in his country, which Gruffydh, for his father's account,
readily granted, and treated him honourably. A little after,
his brother Howel, who was imprisoned by Arnulph Earl
of Pembroke in the castle of Montgomery, where he had
remained for a long time, made his escape and fled to his
brother, then with Gruffydh ap Conan in North Wales ;
but King Henry being informed that Gruffydh ap Rhys and
his brother Howel were entertained by the Prince of North
Wales, sent very smooth letters to Gruffydh ap Conan,
desiring to speak with him, who being come, he received
him with all the tokens of honour and friendship, and
bestowed upon him very rich presents, as was the Norman
policy, who usually made very much of those whom they
designed afterwards to be serviceable to them. After some
general discourse, King Henry came at length to the main
point, and promised the prince immense sums if he would
send Gruffydh ap Rhys or his head to him, which the
prince, overcome by such fair words and large promises,
engaged to perform, and so returned joyfully home, big
with the expectation of his future reward.* Some persons,
however, who wished better to Gruffydh ap Rhys and his
brother Howel, suspected the occasion of the king's message,
and therefore they advised them to withdraw themselves
privately for some time, till Prince Gruffydh's mind should
be better understood, and till it should be known whether
he had made any agreement with the king of England to
betray them to him. As soon as the prince was returned to
his palace at Aberffraw, he enquired for Gruffydh ap Rhys,
and learning in a little time where he was, he sent a troop of
horse to recall him to his court, but Gruffydh hearing of
their approach, with all speed made his escape to the

church
* Welsh Chron. 176.

HISTORY OF WALES. 135

church of Aberdaron, and took sanctuary there.* But the
Prince was so determined to make his promise good to the
King of England, that without any respect to the religious
place Gruffydd ap Rhys had escaped to, he commanded the
same messengers to return, and to bring him away by force,
which the clergy of the country unanimously withstood,
protesting that they would not see the liberties of the church
in the least infringed. Whilst the clergy and the prince's
officers were thus at debate, some who had compassion upon
the young prince, seeing how greedily his life was thirsted
for, conveyed him out of North Wales to Straty wy in South
Wales ; and thus being delivered from the treacherous arid
more dishonourable practices of the Prince of North Wales,
he was forced for the protection of his own life to bid open
defiance to the King of England, and thereupon having
raised all the forces which the shortness of the opportunity
would permit, he made war upon the Flemings and Nor-
mans.f

The next year he laid siege to the castle which stood over A. D. 1113.
against Arberth, and winning the same, levelled it with the
ground, and from thence marched to Lhanymdhyfry castle,
belonging to Richard de Pwns, upon whom the King had
bestowed Cantref Byehan, but the garrison commanded by
Meredith ap Rhytherch ap Caradoc so manfully defended it,
that Gruffydh after killing only some few of the besieged,
and burning the outworks, was forced to remove with no
small loss of his own men. Finding this place impregnable,
he came before Abertawy castle, which was built by Henry
Beaumont, Earl of Warwick, but this proving too strong to
be quickly surrendered, after he had burnt some of the out-
ward buildings, he returned to Stratywy, burning and
destroying all the country as he went along. His fame
being now spread abroad throughout .the country, all
the wild and head-strong youths, and all those persons
whose fortunes were desperate, resorted unto him from all
parts, by which means his forces becoming strong and
numerous, he made inroads into Rhos and Dyfed, spoiling
and destroying the country before him. The Normans and
Flemings were greatly enraged with these continual depre-
dations, but how to remedy this mischief was not easily
determined; after along consultation, however, they thought
it the best way to call together such Welsh lords .as were
friends to the king of England, as Owen ap Rhytherch, and
Rhytherch ap Theodore, with his sons Meredith and Owen,

whose

* A privileged place in the present county of Carnarvon.— Welsh Chron- 176.

f Ibid.

136 HISTORY OF WALES.

whose mother was Heynyth the daughter of Blethyn ap
Confyn, and Owen ap Caradoc the son of Gwenlhian,
another daughter of Blethyn, and Meredith ap Rhytherch.
These declaring their loyalty and fidelity to King Henry,
were desired to defend the king's castle of Carmardhyn, and
that by turns; Owen ap Caradoc the first fortnight, and
then by succession by Rhytherch ap Theodore and Mere-
dith ap Rhytherch. Owen undertook the defence of Car-
mardhyn castle for the time required of him, and Blethyn ap
Cadifor had committed to him the government of Abercomyn
or Abercorran castle, which appertained to Robert Court-
main ; but for all these preparations, Gruffydh ap Rhys had
a wishful eye upon Carmardhyn, and therefore he sent out
some spies to learn the strength and condition of the town,
who bringing him a very flattering account, he marched by
night, and rushing suddenly into the town, ordered his men
to make a great shout, thereby to strike a terror into those
within. Owen ap Caradoc the governor, being surprised by
such an unexpected uproar, made all possible haste to the
place where he had heard the shouting, and thinking that
his men were at his heels, fell in among the enemy; but
having none to support him, his men being all fled, he was
after a manful defence cut in pieces ; and so the town being
taken, Gruffydh burnt every thing to the ground, excepting
the castle, which was also much defaced ; and then return-
ing with a great deal of spoil and booty to his usual residence
Stratywy, his forces were considerably increased by the
accession of many young men, who came to him from all
quarters, and thought that fortune so prospered his arms,
that no body was able to stand before him. After this he
marched to Gwyr, but William de Londres thinking it im-
possible to contend with him, forsook the castle with all his
men in all haste, so that when Gruflfydh was come thither,
he found a great deal of cattle and spoil, and none to own
them, and therefore he burnt down the castle, and carried
away every thing of value in the country. When the Car-
diganshire men heard how fortunately he succeeded in all
his attempts, and being extremely fearful lest his next ex-
pedition should be against them, they sent to him, desiring
him, as being their near relation and countryman, to take
upon him the rule and government over them. GrufFydh
willingly accepted of their offer, and coming thither, wras
joyfully received by the chief men in the country, who were
Cadifor ap Grono, Howel ap Dinerth, and Trahaern ap
Ithel, which three persons had forsaken Dyfed, by reason
that it was so much burdened with Normans, Flemings, and

Englishmen.

HISTORY OF WALES. 137

Englishmen. Nor was Cardigan free from strangers, who
pretended to rule the country, but the people bearing in
mind the continual wrong and oppression they received from
them, imbibed an inveterate hatred to them, and were very
glad to be delivered from their insolent and imperious
oppressors: for King Henry, either by force and banish-
ment of those that stood up for their liberty, or by corrupt-
ing those that were wavering, had brought all that country
to his subjection, and bestowed what lands he thought fit
upon his English or Norman favourites. Notwithstanding
the strength of the English in this country, Gruffydh was
not in the least cast down, but boldly coming on to Cardigan
Iscoed, he laid siege to a fort that Earl Gilbert and the
Flemings had built at a place called Blaen Forth Gwythan.
After divers assaults, and the killing of several of the
besieged, with the loss only of one of his men, Gruffydh
took the' place, and razing it to the ground, brought all the
country thereabouts to subjection. This action proved
very fatal to the English ; for immediately upon this, they
began to forsake their houses and habitations, thinking it
dangerous for them to stay any longer in the country ; and
so the Welsh burnt or otherwise destroyed as far as Pen-
wedic all the houses of those strangers whom Earl Gilbert
had brought with him. Then Gruffydh besieged the castle
of Stradpeithyll, which belonged to Ralph, Earl Gilbert's
steward, and having made himself master of it, he put all
the garrison to the sword. Removing from thence, he en-
camped at Glasgryg, a mile from Lhanbadarn, purposing to
besiege Aberystwith castle next morning, but for want of
provision necessary for his army, he deemed it expedient to
take some cattle which grazed within the limits of the sanc-
tuary.* Here it may be observed, that not only men
enjoyed the privilege of these sanctuaries, but also cattle
and horses, and whatever else lived within the liberties of
them. The day following, Gruffydh marched in a dis-
orderly manner towards the castle, not being apprehensive
of any material opposition, because he was ignorant of the
number of the garrison ; and encamping upon an opposite
hill, which was divided from the castle by a river, with a
bridge over it, he called a council to determine with what
engines they might with best success play against it, and so
make a general assault. The Normans observing their dis-r
order, very cunningly sent out some of their archers to
skirmish with them, and so by degrees entice them to the
bridge, where some of the best armed horsemen were ready

to
* Wekh Chron. p. 179.

138 HISTORY OF WALES.

to issue out upon them. The Welsh not thinking the garri-
son so strong, approached near the bridge, still skirmishing
with the Normans, who pretended to give way ; but when
they came very near, out sallied one on horseback, who
would fain pass the bridge; but being received upon the
points of their spears, he began to flag, and as he en-
deavoured to return, he fell off his horse, and so the Welsh
pursued him over the bridge. The Englishmen seeing this,
fled towards the castle, and the Welsh with all speed fol-
lowed them to the top of the hill ; but whilst they thought
that the day was their own, a party of horse which lay in
ambuscade under the hill rose up, and standing betwixt the
Welsh and the bridge, prevented any succour coming to
them ; and the Welsh being thus hemmed in betwixt both
parties, the former recoiling with greater strength, were so
unmercifully cut off, that scarce one man was left living.
When the rest of the Welsh army, that staid on the other
side of the river, saw what number the garrison contained,
and that they were strong beyond their expectation, they
presently decamped, and with all speed departed out of the
country.*

When King Henry was informed of all the mischief and
cruelties that Gruflfydh ap Rhys had committed among his
subjects in Wales, he sent for Owen ap Cadwgan, desiring
him and Lhywarch ap Trahaern to use all effectual methods
to take or kill the arch-rebel Gruffydh, promising to send
his son Robert immediately with an army to Wales for that
purpose. Owen being very proud that the king put such
confidence in him, encouraged his men to be now as in-
dustrious to merit the king's favour, as they had been
formerly to deserve his displeasure; and so joining his
forces with Lhywarch, they both marched to meet Prince
Robertf at Stratywy, where they supposed Gruffydh ap
Rhys had hid himself in the woods. When they were come
to the frontiers of the country, they made a vow, that they
would let neither man, woman, nor child escape alive ;
which so affrighted the people of the country, that all made
what haste they could to save their lives, some by fleeing
to the woods and mountains, and some by getting into the
king's castles, from whence they had come but a little
before. Then Owen and Lhywarch separated with distinct
parties to scour the woods, which about Stratywy were very
thick and secluded. Owen having entered with an hundred
men, discovered the track of men and cattle, and followed

their

* Welsh Chron. 180.
t Earl of Gloucester, the natural son of Henry, by Nest, his late concubine.

HISTORY OF WALES. 139

their footsteps so close, that within a little while he overtook
them ; and having slain a great many of them, and put the
rest to flight, he carried away all their cattle back to his
army.

But whilst Owen was busy in searching the woods,
Gerald, Steward of Pembroke Castle, who with a great
number of Flemings was upon his march to join the king's
son, met with them who fled from Owen; who desiring
help of Gerald, declared how Owen had forcibly drove
them out, slain a great many of their companions, and spoiled
them of all their goods. Gerald and his Flemings under-
standing that Owen was so nigh with such a small number
of men, thought he had now very convenient opportunity to
be revenged of him upon the account of his wife; and,
therefore, to make sure work with him, he pursued him
close into the woods. Owen being forewarned by his men
that a great number followed him, and advised to make all
speed to get away, was deaf to all such counsels, as thinking
that they of whom his men were so much afraid of, were the
king's friends, and therefore their integrity need not be
questioned, since they had all respect to one common cause :
but he found that a private quarrel is sometimes more
regarded than the public good ; and, therefore, when
Gerald was advanced within bowshot, he greeted him with a
volley of arrows, to shew how great a friend he was ; but
Owen, though persuaded to flee, was so little terrified at
such an unwelcome salutation, that, notwithstanding the
enemy were seven to one, yet he told them, that they were
but Flemings, and such as always trembled at the hearing
of his name. Then falling on with a great deal of courage,
he was at the first onset struck with an arrow into the heart,
of which wound he presently died ; which when his men
saw they all fled, and brought word to Lhywarch and the
rest of their fellows of what had happened ; and so suspect-
ing the king's army, seeing they could not be trusted in
their service, they all returned to their respective coun-
tries.*

Owen being in this manner unhappily slain, his brethren
divided his lands betwixt them ; excepting Caereineon,
which properly belonged to Madawc ap Ryryd ap Blethyn :
and which he had forcibly taken away from his uncle
Meredith. His father Cadwgan had several children by
different women ; and, besides Owen, he had issue Madawc,
by Gwenlhian, the daughter of Gruflfydh ap Conan; Eineon,

by

* Welsh Chron. 182.— « In this manner," says Warrington, « died, suitable to thf
tenor of his life, this bold and profligate chieftain."

140 HISTORY OF WALES.

by Sanna, the daughter of Dyfnwal ; Morgan, by Efelhiw
or Elhiw, the daughter of Cadifor ap Colhoyn, Lord of
Dyfed ; Henry and GrufFydh were by the daughter of the
Lord Pigot, his wedded wife ; Meredith, by Euroron
Hoodliw ; and Owen, by Inerth, the daughter of Edwyn.
Some time afterwards, Eineon ap Cadwgan and Gruffydh
ap Meredith ap Blethyn, besieged the castle of Cymmer, in
Merionethshire, which was lately built by Uchtryd ap
Edwyn; for Cadwgan had bestowed upon Uchtryd, his
cousin-german, Merioneth and Cyfeilioc, upon condition,
that in all cases he should appear his friend, and his sons
after him ; contrary to which promise he bore no manner of
regard to Cadwgan's children after Owen's death ; but to
strengthen himself the better, he erected this castle of
Cymmer, which very much displeased many of Cadwgan's
sons ; and therefore Eineon and GrufFydh, to make Uchtryd
sensible of his error in despising them, attacked Cymmer
Castle, and having slain divers of the garrison, the rest
surrendered themselves ; and so taking the possession of it,
they divided the country betwixt them: Mowdhwy, Cy-
feilioc, and half Penlhyn to GrufFydh ap Meredith ; and
the other half of Penlhyn, with all Merioneth, to Eineon.

The next year King Henry sailed with a great army into
Normandy, against the French king, who with the Earl of
Flanders and others attempted to make William, the son of
Robert Curthoise, Duke of Normandy ; but at the ap-
pearance of the King of England, they all dispersed and
laid aside their intended design. About the same time
Gilbert Strongbow, Earl of Strygill, to whom King Henry
had given all Cardigan, departed this life, after being long
ill of a consumption, much to the joy and satisfaction of the
Welsh, who were much displeased that they should be
deprived of their own natural Lord Cadwgan, from whom
this country was taken, and be forced to serve a stranger,
whose kindness they had no reason to expect. The year
A. D. 1115. following, an irreconcileable quarrel happened betwixt
Howel ap Ithel, Lord of Ros and Ryfonioc, now Denbigh-
land, and Riryd and Lhywarch the sons of Owen ap
Edwyn ; and when they could not otherwise agree, they
broke out into an open war. Thereupon Howel sent to
Meredith ap Blethyn, and to Eineon and Madawc,
Cadwgan's sons, who came down from Merioneth with a
party of four hundred well-disciplined men, and encamped
in DyfFryn Clwyd. Riryd and Lhywarch, on the other
hand, desired the assistance of their cousins, the sons of
Uchtryd ; and both armies meeting in the Vale of Clwyd,

they

HISTORY OF WALES. 141

they attacked each other with much spirit and alacrity, and
after a tedious and a bloody fight, Lhywarch, Owen ap
Edwyn's son, was slain, and with him lorwerth, the son of
Nudh, a noble and a valorous person; and Riryd was
forced to make his escape by flight : but though Howel
obtained the victory, yet he did not long survive his fallen
enemies; for having received a desperate wound in the
action, he died of it within forty days ; and then Meredith
ap Blethyn, and the sons of Cadwgan, finding it dangerous
to stay longer there, for fear of some French, who lay gar-
risoned in Chester, returned home with all speed.

King Henry was still in Normandy; and about this A. D. 1116.
time, a very great battle was fought betwixt him and the
French king, who was completely vanquished and over-
thrown, and had a great number of his nobles taken
prisoners : but as King Henry returned the following 1117t
year for England, one of the ships happened, by the
negligence of the pilot, to be cast away, wherein perished
the king's two sons, William, who was legitimate and heir
apparent to the crown, and Richard, his base son, together
with his daughter and niece, and several others of his
nobility, to the number in all of one hundred and fifty
persons. This unparalleled loss of so many kindred and
friends did not perplex his mind so long, but that within a
short time, he began to solace and raise his drooping
spirits with the thoughts of a new wife ; and, having mar-
ried Adelice, the daughter of the Duke of Lovain, he ills.
purposed to go against Wales ; and having prepared his
forces, he led them in person to Powys-land.

When Meredith ap Blethyn, and Eineon, Madawc, and
Morgan, the sons of Cadwgan, and lords of the country,
heard of it, they sent to Gruffydh ap Conan, Prince of
North Wales, desiring some help at his hands ; who flatly
refused, assuring them, that because he was at peace with
the King of England, he could neither with honour nor
safety send them any succour, nor permit them to come
within his dominions. The lords of Powys receiving this
unwelcome answer, and having no hope of any aid, were
resolved to defend themselves as well as they could ; and,
therefore, they thought the most effectual means to annoy
the enemy, and to keep them from entering into the country,
was to watch and defend the straits by which the enemy
must of necessity pass. Nor were they wrong in their
policy ; for it happened that the king himself, with a small
number, advanced to one of these narrow passages, the rest
of the army, by reason of their carriages having taken some

compass

142 HISTORY OF WALES.

compass about ; which the Welsh perceiving, presently
poured a shower of arrows upon them, and the advantage of
the ground giving help to their execution, they slew and
wounded a great many of the English. The king himself
was struck in the breast, but the arrow did not hurt him, by
reason of his armour,* yet he was so terrified with this un-
expected conflict, and considering with himself, that he
must receive several such brushes before he could advance
to the plain country : and what was above all, being sensible
that by such a rash misfortune he might lose all the honour
and fame which he had before obtained, sent a message to
parley with them who kept the passage, and with all as-
surance of safety, to desire them to come to the king. The
Welsh being come, and questioned how they had such
confidence to oppose the king, and to put his life in so
much danger, made answer, that they belonged to Meredith
ap Blethyn, and according to their master's orders they
were resolved to keep the passage, or to die upon the spot.
The king finding them so resolute, desired them to go to
Meredith and propose to him an agreement of peace, which
he and his cousins, the sons of Cadwgan, accepted of; and
promised to pay the king 10,000 head of cattle, in retri-
bution for former offences. And so King Henry leaving all
things in a peaceable and quiet posture in Wales, and ap-
pointing the Lord Fitz-Warren warden or lieutenant of the
Marches, returned to England. f

A.D. 1120. When a foreign enemy was removed out of the country,
the Welsh could never forbear quarrelling with each other ;
and now Gruffydh ap Rhys ap Theodore, who had been for
some time quiet, fell upon Gruffydh ap Sulhaern, and for
some reason not discovered, treacherously slew him. The
1121. next year there happened another occasion of disturbances
and falling out among the Welsh ; for Eineon, the son of
Cadwgan dying, left all his share of Powys and Merioneth
to his brother Meredith. But his uncle Meredith ap
Blethyn, thinking that these lands more properly belonged
to him, ejected his nephew Meredith, to whom his brother
Eineon had left them, and took possession of them himself.
To augment these differences, King Henry set now at liberty
Ithel ap Riryd ap Blethyn, Meredith's nephew, who had
been for a long time detained in prison ; and, who coming
to his own country, was in expectation to enjoy his estate,

which,

* Stowe's Chron. p. 140.— Welsh Chron. p. 185.

It was uncertain from whence this stroke proceeded ; but Henry, the instant he felt it,
swore " by the death of our Lord," his usual oath, that the arrow came not from a Welsh
but an English bow. — William Malmsbury, p. 158, Frankfort edit. ; Baker's Chron. p. 40.
t Welsh Chron. pp. 185, 186, 187.— Wm. Malmsbury, p. 159.

HISTORY OF WALES. 143

which, upon his being put in custody, his relations had
divided betwixt them ; of which, the greatest share fell to
his uncle Meredith : but when GrufFydh ap Conan was
informed that Meredith ap Blethyn, contrary to all justice,
had taken away by force the lands of his nephew Meredith
ap Cadwgan, he sent his sons Cadwalhon and Owen with an
army into Merioneth, who conquering and bringing to
subjection all the country, carried away the chief of the
people and all the cattle to Lhyn : and at the same time the
sons of Cadwgan entered into the lands of Lhywarch ap
Trahaern, and cruelly wasted and destroyed it, because he
had countenanced the doings of their uncle Meredith ap
Blethyn. These inward clashings and animosities concern-
ing estates and titles, were seconded by most unnatural
bloodshed and unparalleled cruelties ; for Meredith ap
Blethyn, when he found that his nephew Meredith ap
Cadwgan was assisted by the Prince of North Wales, and
that it was impracticable to keep Merioneth from him, he
was resolved to practise that upon his nephew, which he
had failed to effect upon another: and, therefore, lest his A. D. 1122.
other nephew Ithel ap Riryd should meet with the like help
and encouragement to recover those lands, which during his
imprisonment were taken from him, and of which his uncle
actually enjoyed a considerable share ; Meredith thought
he would prevent all disputes, by sending Ithel out of the
world, which, upon mature deliberation, he treacherously
effected. Nor was this the only murder committed at this
time; for Cadwalhon, the son of GrufFydh ap Conan, ex-
ceeded him far for guilt, and slew his three uncles, Grono,
Ryryd, and Meilyr, the sons of Owen ap Edwyn ; and, what
was most unnatural of all, Morgan ap Cadwgan with his
own hands killed his brother Meredith, a crime most exe-
crable, though he did afterwards repent of it.

Not long after this, GrufFydh ap Rhys, by the false and 1124.
invidious accusations of the Normans, was dispossessed of
all the lands which King Henry had formerly granted him,
and which he had for a considerable time peaceably enjoyed.*
Towards the end of the same year died Daniel ap Sulgien,
Bishop of St. David's, and Archdeacon of Powys, a man of
extraordinary piety and learning, and one who made it his
continual employment to endeavour to work a reconciliation
betwixt North Wales and Powys, which in his time were
continually at variance and enmity with one another. The
next year died GrufFydh, the son of Meredith ap Blethyn ;f U25.

and

* Welsh Chron. 187.

, f Welsh Chron. 188. — Having forsaken the interests of his native country, had long
become a subject of the King of England — Ibid.

144 HISTORY OF WALES.

and about the same time Owen ap Cadwgan, having got
into his hands Meredith ap Llywarch, delivered him to
Pain Fitz-John, to be kept safe prisoner in the castle of
Bridgnorth. The reason of this was, because Meredith had
slain Meyric, his cousin-german, and very barbarously had
pulled out the eyes of two more of his cousins, the sons of
Griffri. This cruel and inhuman custom of plucking out
the eyes of such as they hated or feared was too frequent ly
A.D. 1126. practised in Wales; for the following year levaf the son of
Owen served two of his brethren after this unnatural man-
ner, and thinking that too little, passed a sentence of perpe-
tual banishment upon them. A little after, his brother
Lhewelyn ap Owen slew lorwerth ap Lhywarch ; but all
this mischief practised by these two brothers levaf and
Lhewelyn, recoiled at last upon themselves ; for their uncle
Meredith ap Blethyn, being apprehensive that his two
nephews were much in his way, and that if they were put
aside, all their estate would of right fall to him, he slew
levaf outright, and having plucked out Lhewelyn's eyes,
castrated him, for fear he should beget any children to
inherit his lands after him. These, no doubt, were bar-
barous times, when for the least offence, nay sometimes
suspicion, murder was so openly and incorrigibly commit-
ted ; which must of necessity be attributed to this one evil,
That so many petty states having equal power and authority
in their own territories, and being subject to none but the
king of England, still endeavoured to outvie and overtop
each other : hence nearness of relation giving way to ambi-
tion, they never regarded those of the same blood, so that
themselves might add to their strength, and increase their
estate by their fall ; and for this reason Meyric slew Lhy-
warch, and his son Madawc his own cousins, but before he
could make any advantage by their death, he was himself
served after the same manner. The only person who after-
wards repented of such a foul crime, was Morgan ap
Cadwgan, who being severely troubled in mind for the
murder he had lately committed upon his brother Meredith,
took a journey to Jerusalem to expiate his crime, and in his
return from thence died in the island of Cyprus. This
treacherous way of privately murdering those by whom they
1129. were offended, was prevalent among the Welsh ; for Eineon
the son of Owen ap Edwyn, remembering that Cadwalhon
the son of Gruffydh ap Conan had basely slain three of his
brothers, and taking the opportunity of his being at Nan-
hewdwy, he, assisted by Cadwgan ap Grono ap Edwyn, set
upon him and slew him. About the same time, that great

usurper

HISTORY OF WALES. 145

usurper Meredith a]) Bletbyn ap Confyn, who, by the most
unnatural and horrid practices, had got the lands of all liJs
brothers and nephews, and by that means was become a
man of the greatest strength and sway in Powys, died of a
fit of sickness, which had reduced him to such an appre-
hension of the consequences of his former misdeeds, that he
did penance as an expiation of his guilt.

In the year 1 134, till which time nothing of moment was A.D. 1134.
transacted in Wales, Henry, the first of that name, King of
England, died in Normandy in the month of October ; after
whom Stephen Earl of Buloign, son to the Earl of Blois,
his sister's son, by the means of Hugh Bygod, was crowned
king by the Archbishop of Canterbury, all the nobility of
England consenting thereto; though contrary to a former
oath they had taken to Maud the Empress. The first
thing that employed his thoughts after his accession to the
government, was against David King of the Scots ; who
taking advantage of this new revolution in England, by
some treacherous means or other, got the towns of Carlisle
and Newcastle into his hands : but King Stephen, though
scarcely settled in his throne, presently marched towards
the North; of whose coming David being assured, and
fearing to meet him, voluntarily restored Newcastle, and com-
pounded for Carlisle ; but would not swear to him by reason
of his oath to Maud ; which, however, his son did not scruple
to do ; and thereupon was by King Stephen created Earl of
Huntingdon. This alteration of affairs in England made 1135.
also the Welsh bestir themselves ; for Morgan ap Owen, a
man of considerable quality and estate in Wales, remember-
ing the wrong and injury he had received at the hands of
Richard Fitz-Gilbert, slew him, together with his son
Gilbert. And shortly after this, Cadwalader and Owen
Gwyneth, the sons of Gruflfydh ap Conan Prince of North
Wales, having raised a mighty army, marched against the
Normans and Flemings, and, coming to Cardigan,* com-
mitted very considerable waste ami havock in the country,
and took two of the strongest places, one belonging to
Walter Espec,f and the castle of Aberystwyth. In this
last place they were joined by Howel ap Meredith and
Rhys ap Madawc ap Ednerth; who, marching forward,
took the castle of Richard de la Mare, together with those
of Dinerth and Caerwedros, and then returned with very

valuable

* Welsh Chron. p. 189.

f He built the castle called Catted Gwalter, in the parish of Llanfihangel Genau
Glyn. It was destroyed in (he year 1135, by Cadwaladyr and Owain Gwynedd.

146 HISTORY OF WALES.

valuable booty. Having succeeded so well in this expedi-
tion, they could not rest satisfied till they had delivered the
whole country from the intolerable pride and oppression of
the Normans and Flemings ; and, therefore, returning the
same year to Cardigan with 6000 foot and 2000 horse,
well disciplined and experienced soldiers ; and being joined
by Gruffydh ap Rhys and Howel ap Meredith of Brecknock
with his sons, and Madawc ap Ednerth, they over-ran the
country as far as Aberteifi, restoring all the former inhabit-
ants to their proper inheritances, and discarding all such
strangers as the late Earl of Strygil had placed in the
country. But when Stephen, who was governor of Aber-
teifi, saw that, he called to him Robert Fitz-Martyn, the
sons of Gerald, and William Fitz- John, with all the strength
of the Normans, Flemings, and English in Wales or the
Marches, and, meeting with the Welsh betwixt Aber Nedd
and Aber Dyfi, gave them battle. After a very fierce and
bloody encounter, the English began to give ground, and,
according to their usual manner, trusting too much to the
strength of their towns and fortifications, began to look how
to save themselves that way ; but the Welsh pressed upon
them so hard, that they killed above 3000 men, besides
several that were drowned, and many were taken prisoners.
This victory being obtained, Cadwalader and Owen over-
ran the whole country, forcing all the Normans and
Flemings to depart the country with all speed, and placing
in their room those miserable Welsh who had been so long
deprived and kept from their own estates; and after they
had thus cleared the country of their insatiable invaders,
they returned to North Wales, laden with very rich spoils
and acceptable plunder.* The king of England was not in
a condition to take cognizance of the extremities his sub-
jects were reduced to in Wales, because his own nobles
of England were risen in arms against him ; the reason of
which tumult among the nobility was occasioned by a falla-
cious report that had been spread of the king's death, who
then lay sick of a lethargy. They that bore him no good-
will spread the rumour as much as they could, and stirred
up the common people in behalf of the Empress ; whereas
on the other hand the king's friends betook themselves to
castles and strongholds for fear of the Empress, and among
others Hugh Bygod secured the castle of Norwich, and
after he was assured that the king was well again, he was
loth to deliver the same out of his possession, unless it were
A. D. 1137. to the king's own hands. During these commotions and

troubles

* Welsh Chron. p. 189.

HISTORY OF WALES. 147

troubles in England, Gruffydh ap Rhys, son to Rhys ap
Theodore, the right heir to the principality of South Wales,
died, leaving issue a son called Rhys, commonly known by
the name of Lord Rhys, by Gwenlhian the daughter of
Gruffydh ap Conan, who by some is said to have poisoned
her husband.* Towards the end of the same year died
likewise Gruffydh ap Conan, Prince of North Wales,f after
he had reigned 57 years : his death was much lamented by
all his subjects, because he was a prince of incomparable
qualities, and one who, after divers victories obtained over
the English, had thoroughly purged North Wales from all
foreigners. He had issue by Angharad, the daughter of
Owen ap Edwyn,J three sons, — namely, Owen, Cadwalader,
and Cadwalhon,§ and five daughters, — Marret, Susanna,
Ranulht, Agnes, and Gwenlhian; and by a concubine
lago, Ascain, Edwal (Abbot of Penmon), Dolhing, and
Elen, who was married to Hova ap Ithel Felyn of Yal.
There were several excellent laws enacted in his time ; and
among the rest, he reformed the great disorders of the
Welsh minstrels, which wrere then grown to great abuse.
Of these there were three sorts in Wales ; the first were
called Beirdh, who composed several songs and odes of
various measures, wherein the poet's skill was not only
required, but also a natural endowment, or a vein which the
Latins term furor poeticus. These likewise kept the
records of all gentlemen's arms and pedigrees, and were
principally esteemed among all the degrees of the Welsh
poets. The next were such as played upon musical instru-
ments, chiefly the harp and the crowd or crwth; which
musick Gruffydh || ap Conan first brought over into WTales;

who
L2

* Gwenlhian, desirous of aiding the designs of her husband, took the field in person
at the head of her own forces, attended by her two sons ; but her army was defeated
by Maurice de Londres. Morgan, one of her sons, was slain in the action, and her other
son, Maelgwyn, was taken prisoner ; and the princess herself, it is said, was beheaded by
the orders of her brutal enemy. — Girald. Cambr. Uin. An action so savage, without
precedent even in these times, called loudly for vengeance on the spirit of ihe injured
princess. This circumstance clearly contradicts the assertion of Morentius Monk of
Westminster, that Gwenlhian, wife to Gryffydh ap Rhys, by deceitful practices, had been
the cause of his death.— Girald. Cambr. I tin. lib. i. c. iv. See Welsh Chron. p. 190.

f He died at the advanced age of eighty-two years, and was buried on the south side
of the great altar in the church of Bangor.- — Vita Griff, fil. Conani.

J Lord of Englefield.
§ He was slain before the death of his father. — Welsh Chron. p. 191.

|| An elegy on Gruffydh was sung by Meilyr Brydydd, which piece is preserved in the
Welsh Archaiology, and concludes thus, —

" O, may the son of Cynan, of enlarge.! mind, be with Christ in the pure adoration of
the region of glory ! Since the chief of men obtains the social confidence of angels, as to
my life I have not a longing wish : he is, through the meritorious rrediation of One of
the Unity of Trinity, in a purely splendid home of the celestial world."

148 HISTORY OF WALES.

who being born in Ireland, and descended by his mother's
side of Irish parents, brought with him from thence several
skilful musicians, that invented almost all the instruments
which were afterwards played upon in Wales. The last
sort were called Atcaneaid, whose business it was to sing to
the instruments played- upon by another. Each of these,
by the same statute, had their several reward and encou-
ragement allotted to them ; their life and behaviour was to
be spotless and unblameable, otherwise their punishment
was very severe and rigid, every one having authority to
punish and correct them, even to the deprivation of all they
had. They were also interdicted and forbidden to enter
any man's house, or to compose any song of any one,
without the special leave and warrant of the party concerned ;
with many other ordinances relating to the like purpose.

OWEN GWYNEDH.

A.D. 1137. AFTER the death of Gruffydh ap Conan, his eldest son
Owen, surnamed Gwynedh, succeeded in the principality
of North Wales; who had no sooner entered upon the
government than, together with the rest of his brethren,
he made an expedition into South Wales, and having
demolished and overthrown the castles of Stradmeyric,
Stephan, and Humflfrey, and laid in ashes the town of
Caermardhyn,* he returned home with no less honour than
booty and plunder. About the same time, John, Arch-
deacon of Lhanbadarn, departed this life, a man of singular
piety and strictness of life, who, for his rigid zeal in religion
and virtue, was thought worthy to be canonized, and to be
counted among the number of the saints. This year like-
wise King Stephen passed over to Normandy, and having
concluded a peace with the French king and the Duke of
Anjou, returned back to England without any further
delay: but the following spring gave opportunity for
greater undertakings; David king of Scots, upon the king
of England's going to France last summer, had entered the
borders of England, and continued to make considerable
waste and havock in that part of the country. Whereupon
King Stephen, to rid his country and his subjects from so
dangerous an enemy, marched with an army towards the
North, whose coming the king of Scots hearing of, he relin-
quished

* Welsh Chron. p. 193.— He retained in his possession all Caerdigan, compelled
the inhabitants of Pembroke to pay him tribute, and returned to his own dominions in
high reputation,— Brit Ant, Rev. by Vaughan of Hengwrt, p. 23.

HISTORY OF WALES. 149

quished the borders of England, and retired to his own
country. But that did not satisfy King Stephen, who
desired to be further revenged for the unpardonable hostili-
ties committed by the Scots in his dominions ; and therefore
pursuing them to their own country, he harassed and laid
waste all the south part of the kingdom of Scotland. The
king's absence, however, animated several of the English
nobility to rebel; for which purpose they fortified every
one of their castles and strongholds; William Earl of
Gloucester those of Leeds and Bristol; Ralph Lunel,
Cari; William Fitz-Alan, Shrewsbury; Paganellus, Lud-
low; William de Moyun, Dunester; Robert de Nichol,
Warham; Eustace Fitz-John, Merton; and Walklyn,
Dover. Notwithstanding all these mighty preparations,
the king in a short time became master of them all ; some
he won by assault, others upon fair promises and advan-
tageous conditions were surrendered, and some he got by
treacherous under-hand contrivances. The Scots thought
to take advantage of these commotions in England ; and
thereupon, as soon as they heard that some of the nobility
were in actual rebellion against the king, they entered into
the borders, and began, as they thought without any appre-
hension of opposition, to ravage and lay waste the country
before them: but William Earl of Albemarle, William
Pyppell Earl of Nottingham, Walter Espec, and Gilbert
Lacy, gathered together all the forces they could raise in
the North; and being animated and encouraged by the
eloquent and pressing oration of Ralph Bishop of Orkneys,
which he delivered in the audience of the whole army, they
set upon the Scots at Almerton with such courage that,
after a very great slaughter of his men, King David was
glad to escape with his life by flight. After this, King
Stephen seized to his own use the castles of Ludlow and
Leeds, and pressed the bishops of Salisbury and Lincoln so
hard, that to prevent their perishing by famine, they were
constrained to surrender ; the former the castles of Vises
and Shirburn, the latter those of Newark-upon-Trent and
Sleeford. This greatly augmented the king's strength
against the ensuing storm; for in the summer this year,
Maud the Empress, daughter and heir to King Henry, to
whom King Stephen and all the nobility of England had
sworn allegiance, landed at Arundel, with her brother
Robert Earl of Gloucester, and was there honourably re-
ceived, by William de Albineto, who was lately married
to Queen Adeliz, King Henry's widow, with whom he
received the Earldom of Arundel in dowry. As soon as

King

150 HISTORY OF WALES.

King Stephen heard of her landing, he marched with all
possible speed to Arundel, and laid siege to the castle;
but finding it impregnable, he raised the siege, and by that
means suffered the Empress and her brother to escape to
Bristol.

A. D. 1138. The next year an unlucky accident fell out in Wales;
Cynric/ one of Prince Owen's sons, having by some means
or other disgusted Madawc ap Meredith ap Blethyn ap
Confyn, a person of considerable esteem and estate in the
country, was by his connivance set upon and slain by his
men. The affairs of England this year afforded greater
rarity of action ; King Stephen with a formidable army laid
siege to the city of Lincoln, to the relief of which, Ranulph
Earl of Chester, and Robert Earl of Gloucester, marched
with their forces : but before they could arrive, the town
was taken ; whereupon they drew up their forces in order
to give the king battle, who on the other side was ready to
receive them. King Stephen drew up his forces in three
divisions, the first being led by the Earls of Britain, Mellent,
Norfolk, Hampton, and Warren ; the second by the Earl of
Albemarle, and William of Ypres ; and the third by the
king himself, assisted by Baldwyn Fitz-Gilbert, with several
others of his nobility. Of the enemy's side, the disinherited
barons had the first place ; the Earl of Chester, with a con-
siderable party of Welshmen, far better couraged than
armed, led the second ; and the Earl of Gloucester the
third division. After an obstinate battle on both sides, the
victory at length favoured the barons, King Stephen being
first taken prisoner, and a little after the queen, together
with William of Ypres and Bryan Fitz-Count ; but within
a while after, William Martell and Geoffrey de Mandeville
gathered together some fresh forces, and fought the Empress
and her brother at Winchester, and having put the Empress
to flight, took Earl Robert prisoner, for exchange of whom,

1139. the king was set at liberty. The next year King Stephen
adventured another battle, and received a second overthrow
at Wilton ; which, however, did not so much discourage
him, but that he laid so close a siege to the Empress and
her forces at Oxford, that she was glad to make her escape
to Wallingford. The same year died Madawc ap Ednerth,
a person of great quality and note in Wales ; and Meredith
ap Howel, a man in considerable esteem, was slain by the
sons of Blethyn ap Gwyn.

1140. For the two succeeding years nothing remarkable passed
in Wales ; excepting that this year Howel ap Meredith ap
Rhytherch of Cantref Bychan, and Rhys ap Howel were

slain

HISTORY OF WALES. 151

slain in a cowardly manner by the treachery and perfidious
practices of the Flemings; and the next year Howel ap^.D. 1141.
Meredith ap Blethyn was basely murdered by his own men ;
at which time, Howel and Cadwgan the sons of Madawc ap
Ednerth, upon some unhappy quarrel, killed each other.
Shortly after this, an irreconcileable difference fell out 1142.
betwixt Ariarawd son to Gruffydh ap Rhys, Prince of South
Wales, and his father-in-law Cadwalader the son of Gruftydh
ap Conan, and brother to Prince Owen Gwynedh ; which
from words quickly proceeded to blows. In this dispute
Anarawd was unhappily slain ; which so exasperated Prince
Owen against his brother Cadwalader, that, together with
his son Howel, he marched with an army into his brother's
country, and after a considerable waste and destruction,
burnt to the ground the castle of Aberystwyth. Cadwalader,
upon hearing the news of Prince Owen's approach, withdrew
himself and fled to Ireland ; where having hired a great
number of Irish and Scots for two thousand marks, under
the command of Octer, and the sons of Turkel and Cherulf,
he sailed for Wales, and landed at Abermeny,* in Carnar-
vonshire. The Prince marched instantly to prevent their
farther progress into the country ; and both armies being
come in view of each other, a peace was happily concluded
betwixt the two brothers. The Irish understanding this,
and that their coming over was likely to prove but a fool's
errand to them, they surprised and secured Cadwalader, till
their wages and arrears were paid ; who, .to obtain hip
liberty, delivered to them two thousand head of cattle,
besides many prisoners, and other booty, which they had
taken in the country : but as soon as the prince was informed
that his brother Cadwalader was set free, he fell upon the
Irish, and having slain a very considerable number of them,
recovered all the booty they purposed to ship off, and forced
as many as could escape to return with great Joss, and a
greater shame, back to Ireland, f

The Normans, however, had far better success in Wales ;
Hugh son to Radulph Earl of Chester, having fortified his
castle of Cymaron, entered and won the country of Melienyth
a second time; and the castle of Clun being fortified by
another lord, all Elvel became subject to the Normans. At
the same time King Stephen took Geoffrey Mandeville
prisoner at St. Albans, where the Earl of Arundel, by the
fall of his horse, had nearly been drowned in the river : but
the Earl of Mandeville, to obtain his liberty, delivered up
to the king the tower of London, with the castles of Walden

and

* Abermenai. f Welsh Chron. p. 197.

152 HISTORY OF WALES.

and Plassey, which reduced him to such a condition, that he
was forced to live upon the plunder and spoil of abbies and
other religious houses, till at length he was slain in a skir-
mish against the king, and his son was banished.
A. D. 1144. The next year a skirmish happened betwixt Hugh de
Mortimer and Rhys ap Howel, wherein the latter was taken
prisoner, with many others of his accomplices, who were all
committed to prison by the English : but it fared much
better with Howel* and Conan, the sons of Prince Owen,
who having raised an army against the Flemings and Nor-
mans, gained a considerable victory at Aberteifi,f and
having placed a garrison in the town, returned home with
great honour and much booty.

About the same time, Sulien ap Rhythmarch, one of the
college of Lhanbadarn, and a person of great reading and
extensive learning, departed this life. Shortly after, Gilbert
Earl of Clare came with a great number of forces to Dyfed,
and built the castle of Caermardhyn, and the castle of the
1145. sons of Uchtryd.J Hugh Mortimer likewise slew Meyric
ap Madawc ap Riryd ap Bleddin, and Meredith ap Madawc
ap Ednerth. Thus far it went of the side of the English ;
but now the Welsh began to gain ground : Cadelh the son
of Gruffydh ap Rhys, Prince of South Wales, laid siege to
the castle of Dynefawr,§ belonging to Earl Gilbert, which
being surrendered, Cadelh, assisted by his brethren Meredith
and Rhys, brought his army before the castle of Caermard-
hyn, which after a short siege yielded in a like manner, on
condition, however, that the garrison should not be put to
the sword. ||

From thence he marched to Lhanstephan,1[and encamped
before the castle ; to the relief of which the Normans and
Flemings coming with their forces, were completely van-

quished, and the castle was speedily delivered up to the
Welsh. The Normans were so much incensed at this, that
they mustered all the forces they could draw together out
of the neighbouring countries, and unexpectedly surrounded
the castle, intending by all possible means to recover the
same : but the governor, Meredith ap Gruffydh, a man of
great years, and no less experience, so animated and en-
couraged the besieged, that when the Normans and Flemings
ventured to scale the walls, they were beat back with such

vigour,

* Besides being a gallant warrior, Prince Howel was a bard of some eminence : he
wrote an account of his battles in verse, and some love verses, in a most elegant manner j
several of which appear in the Welsh Archaiology.

f Welsh Chron.p.198. J Ibid.

§ Dinas Faur, or the Great Palace. |] Welsh Chron. p. 198.

Ofl Llan Stephan, situate on the mouth of the river Towi, in the county of Caermarthen.

HISTORY OF WALES. 153

vigour, and loss on their side, that at length they were com-
pelled to raise the siege, and leave the Welsh in possession
of the castle.*

Shortly after this, Run,f the son of Prince Owen of North
Wales, a youth of great promise and incomparable qualifi-
cations, died, whose death his father took so much to heart,
that for some time he seemed to be past all comfort, being
fallen into such a melancholy disposition, that he was satis-
fied with nothing but retirement : but an accident fell out,
which roused him out of this lethargical fit of sorrow and
discontent : the castle of Mold was so very strong and well
garrisoned by the English, that it greatly annoyed the
country thereabouts, and had been frequently besieged, but
could never be taken. Prince Owen at this time levied an
army, and laid close siege to it ; and the garrison throughout
several assaults behaved itself so manfully, that the place
seemed impregnable : but the presence and example of
Prince Owen so encouraged his men> that they renewed the
attack with all possible vigour and might, and at last forced
their entrance into the castle. Having put a great number
of the garrison to the sword, and taken the rest prisoners,
the castle was razed to the ground; and this fortunate
attempt so pleased the prince, that he forgot all sorrow for
his son, and returned to his usual temper and accustomed
merriments. At the same time, King Stephen of England
obtained a remarkable victory over his enemies at Faren-
don ; and although the ensuing year Randal Earl of Chester
and he were reconciled, yet he thought it more adviseable
to detain him prisoner, though contrary to his promise^
until such time as the Earl would deliver up the castle of
Lincoln, with all the forts and places of strength in his
custody.

The next year, Cadelh, Meredith, and Rhys, the sons of A.D. 1146.
Gruffydh ap Rhys ap Theodore brought an army before the
castle of Gwys ; but finding themselves too weak to master
it, they desired Howel, son to Prince Owen Gwynedh, a
person famous for martial endowments, to come to their
assistance. Howel, who was very desirous of signalizing
himself, and of evidencing his valour to the world, readily
consented to their request; and having drawn his forces
together, marched directly towards Gwys, where being
arrived, he was joyfully received, and honourably entertained
by such lords as desired his help. Having viewed the
strength and fortification of the castle, he found it was im-
practicable

* Welsh Chron. p. 198.
t A favourite, though an illegitimate son. — Welsh Chron. p. 226.

154 HISTORY OF WALES.

practicable to take the place, without the walls could be
destroyed • and therefore he gave orders that certain batter-
ing engines should be provided, whilst the rest should
harass and molest the besieged, by throwing great stones
into the castle.* The enemies perceiving what irresistible
preparations the besiegers contrived, thought it to no pur-
pose to withstand their fury ; and therefore to do that volun-
tarily which must be done by compulsion, they presently
yielded up the castle. Shortly after this a great difference
happened betwixt the sons of Prince Owen, Howel and
Conan, and their uncle Cadwalader ; whereupon the former
entered with an army into the country of Merioneth, and
committed great wastes and hostilities there, insomuch that
the inhabitants flocked into sanctuaries to save their lives :
but the young lords finding what a fearful and unsettled
condition the people were in, and the better to draw them
to their side, issued a proclamation, assuring them that all
who would favour their country, should not only enjoy their
lives, but their former liberty and accustomed privileges ;
upon the publication of which edict, the people returned to
their own habitations. Having by this stratagem brought
all the country under their own pleasure and good will, they
led their army before the castle of Cynvael, belonging to
Cadwalader, which he had built and strongly fortified.
The government of this castle Cadwalader had committed
to Merfyn, abbot of Tygwyn, or the White House; who
being summoned to surrender, by the brothers Howel and
Conan, did not only refuse, but defied their utmost efforts
upon the place. The lords finding they could do no. good
by threats and menaces, judged it more convenient to make
use of the other extreme ; and therefore promised the abbot
a very high reward, if he would deliver the castle into their
hands : but all proved of no effect, the abbot being a person
of more honesty and greater honour than to be corrupted to
betray his trust, told them flatly that he would not deceive
his master's expectation, and therefore would choose rather
to die with honour, than to live with shame. The lords
finding him inexorable, and withal being vexed that a
churchman should put such a stop to their fortunate pro-
ceedings, made such a vigorous assault upon the castle, that
after they had pulled down some part of the walls, they
entered in by force, and ravaged so furiously, that they
killed and wounded the whole garrison, the abbot only
escaping, who, by the help of some of his friends in Howel's
army, got away safe.f Towards the close of this year,

several

« Welsh Chron. p. 200. f Welsh Chron. p. 201.

HISTORY OF WALES. 155

several persons of note departed this life, among whom were
Robert Earl of Gloucester, and Gilbert Earl of Clare, as
also Uchthryd bishop of Llandaff, a man of great piety and
learning, in whose see succeeded Nicholas ab Gurgant.

The following year also died Bernard bishop of St. A. D. 1147.
David's, and was succeeded by David Fitzgerald, then
archdeacon of Cardigan. Sometime after, Prince Owen 1148.
Gwynedh built a castle in Yale, called Castelh y Rodwyth ;
and his brother Cadwalader built another at Lhanrystid,
and bestowed his part of Cardigan upon his son Cadwgan.
Also Madoc the son of Meredith ap Blethyn founded the
castle of Oswestry, and gave his nephews Owen and Meyric,
the sons of Gruffydh ap Meredith, his share of Cyfeilioc.

The next year Conan son to Prince Owen Gwynedh, for 1149.
certain faults and miscarriages committed against his father,
though the particulars are not discovered, was put in prison,
where for some time he continued in custody. But it fared
better with his brother Howel, who having made his uncle
Cadwalader his prisoner, reduced all his country, together
with his castle, subject to himself. In South Wales, some
business of moment happened this year ; Cadelh the son of
Gruffydh ap Rhys having fortified the castle of Carmardhyn,
marched with his army towards Cydwely, wasted and de-
stroyed the whole country, and being returned home, joined
his army with his brothers Meredith and Rhys, who entering
into the country of Cardigan, won that part called Is Aeron.
This was succeeded by an action of greater importance in
North Wales; some irreconcileable difference arising be-
twixt Prince Owen and Randal Earl of Chester, it quickly
broke out into open war. The Earl made all the prepara-
tions the time would permit, and drew together a consider-
able army from all parts of England, and what strengthened
and encouraged him the more, he was joined by Madoc ap
Meredith Prince of Powys, who disdaining to hold his lands
of Prince Owen Gwynedh, chose rather to side with and
abet his enemies. The prince, on the other hand, was not
backward in his preparations, and perceiving the enemy to
come upon him, thought it adviseable not to suffer him to
advance too far into the country, but to stop and prevent his
career before he should take too firm a footing in his do-
minions. To this end he marched with his whole power as
far as Consyllt in Flintshire, with full resolution to give the
Earl of Chester battle, which the English were glad of, as
thinking themselves far more numerous, and much better
armed and disciplined than the Welsh : but both armies
having joined battle, the English quickly faltered in their
expectation of success, and finding the Welsh to press

irresistibly

156 HISTORY OF WALES.

irresistibly upon them, they thought it wiser to retire, and
endeavour to save themselves by flight: the Welsh, how-
ever, pursued them so hard that few escaped being either
slain or taken prisoners, and they some of the chief com-
manders, who through the fleetness of their horses avoided
the fury of their pursuers.*

A. D. 1150. The next year the scene of action removed to South
Wales ; Cadelh, Meredith, and Rhys, the sons of Gruffydh
ap Rh}'s, Prince of South Wales, being entered with an
army into Cardigan, won all the country from the son of
Howel Prince of North Wales, excepting the castle of
Lhanfihangel in Pengwern. The siege of Lhanrystyd castle
proved so difficult, that the young lords of South Wales lost
a great part of their bravest soldiers before it, which so
enraged them, that when they got possession of the castle,
they put all the garrison to the sword. From thence they
marched to Ystradmeyric castle, which after they had won,
manned, and re-fortified, they disbanded their forces, and
returned home. But Cadelh, the eldest of the brothers,
was upon the point of receiving that blow by treachery at
home, which he had escaped from the enemies abroad ; for
some of the inhabitants of Tenby in Pembrokeshire, having
conceived a displeasure and hatred against Cadelh, were
resolved to revenge themselves, and to lay a trap for his life;
and having observed that he took great pleasure in hunting,
were resolved to execute their plot, whilst he was hot and
eager at his sport. Observing, therefore, one day that he
went a hunting with only a few companions, they placed them-
selves in ambuscade, and when the game came that way, they
unexpectedly set upon the unarmed sportsmen, and having
easily made all the rest fly away, they wounded Cadelh so
cruelly, that he narrowly escaped their hands alive; he
made shift, however, to get home, lay for a long time dan-
gerously ill, and with great difficulty at length recovered his
life. Upon this, his brothers Meredith and Rhys passed
with an army into Gwyr, and having burnt and destroyed
the country thereabouts, they besieged and took the castle of
Aberlhychwr, but finding they could not keep it, they razed
it to the ground, and after that returned home with great
booty to Dynevawr, and repaired the fortifications of the
castle there.f About the same time also, Howel, Prince
Owen Gwynedh's son, fortified Humphry's castle in the
valley of Caletwr.

1151. But the following year Prince Owen did a very barbarous
action to Cunetha, his brother Cadwalhon's son ; for, being

apprehensive

* Welsh Chron. p. 202.— Hist. Gwedir Family, p. 4.
f The ancient palace of their ancestors.

HISTORY OF WALES. 157

apprehensive lest this young man should lay claim to any
part of his estate as his father's right, he first pulled out his
eyes, and afterwards castrated him, that he should not beget
any children to renew a claim to Cadwalhon's estate.* This
inhuman severity was succeeded by another of no small
remark; Lhewelyn, son to Madoc ap Meredith, having
watched a convenient opportunity, set upon and slew Stephen
the son of Baldwin : but Cadwalader, Prince Owen's
brother, after a tedious imprisonment which he had sus-
tained through the malice and rancour of his nephew Howel,
at length made his escape, and flying to the Isle of Angle-
sey, brought a considerable part of that island under his
subjection. Prince Owen hearing that his brother had
escaped from custody, and that he was in actual possession
of a great part of Anglesey, immediately dispatched an army
over, which proving too formidable to Cadwalader's party,
he was constrained to escape to England, and to desire
succour from the relations of his wife, who was the daughter
of Gilbert Earl of Clare.f This year Galfrede Arthur,
commonly called Geoffrey of Monmouth, was made bishop
of St. Asaph, and at the same time Simon Archdeacon of
Cyfeilioc, a man of great worth and esteem in his country,
died.

The year following, Meredith and Rhys, the sons of At D- 1152'
Gruffydh ap Rhys Prince of South Wales, laid siege to
Penwedic castle, which belonged to Howel, Prince Owen's
son, and after great pains and considerable loss of men on
their side, at last made themselves masters of it. From
thence they marched by night to Tenby, and unexpectedly
falling upon the castle, of which one Fitzgerald was
governor, they scaled the walls before the garrison were
aware of any danger, and so possessing themselves of the
castle, they fell upon the garrison, in revenge of the mis-
chief they had done and further designed to their brother
Cadelh : for Cadelh at this time was gone upon a pilgrimage,
and during his absence had committed his whole inheritance
and all other concerns in Wales to the care of his brethren,
Meredith and Rhys. After the taking of Tenby castle,
they divided their army into two parties, with one of which
Rh}7s marched to Ystratcongen; and after great havock and
waste committed there, he passed to Cyfeilioc, which fared
in like manner with Ystratcongen. Meredith, with the
other party, encamped before Aberavan castle, and after a
short siege won and got possession of it, and then returned

home

* Welsh Chron. p. 203.
t Memoirs of Gwedir Family, p. 5.— Welsh Chron. 203.

158 HISTORY OF WALES.

home with very considerable booty and many rich spoils.
About the same time, Randal Earl of Chester, who had
lived in continual enmity and frequent hostility with Prince
Owen of North Wales, departed this life, leaving his son
Hugh to enjoy both his titles and estate in England, and to
prosecute the feuds and hostilities against the Welsh.
A. p. 1153. Shortly after died Meredith, son to Gruffydh ap Rhys,
Prince of South Wales, who was Lord of Cardigan, Ystrat-
ywy, and Dyfed, being not passed the twenty-fifth year of
his age; a person of incomparable valour and enterprize,
and in all his attempts and achievements very fortunate.
He was presently followed by Geoffrey Bishop of Llandaff,
a man as famous for learning and a good life as the other
was for masculine bravery and martial prowess. In Eng-
land the face of things looked very lowering ; Henry, sur-
named Shortmantle, the empress's son, landed in England,
and in his progress through the country took several castles,
among which were Malmesbury, Wallingford, and Shrews-
bury : but his fury was quickly appeased by the death of
Eustace, King Stephen's son, so that the sole obstacle to
his succeeding to the throne being now removed, he wil-
lingly concluded a peace with King Stephen, permitting
him to enjoy the crown peaceably for his life, upon condi-

1154. tion that he should be declared his successor. King
Stephen did not long survive this treaty ; and then Henry
Plantagenet, the Empress's son, was crowned in his stead.

1155. Towards the beginning of King Henry's reign, Rhys
Gruffydh ap Rhys, King of South Wales, upon apprehen-
sion that Owen Gwynedh had raised an army for the
conquest of South Wales, drew together all his strength,
and marched to Aberdyfi to face the enemy upon their own
borders : but finding the rumour to be false, and that the
prince of North Wales had no such design in hand, having
built a castle at Aberdyfi, which might defend the frontiers
from any future attempt on his country, he returned back
without attempting any thing farther. At the same time,
Madoc ap Meredith built a castle at Caereneon near Cymer,
and then Eglwys Fair* in Meivod was founded. About
this time also, Meyric, nephew to Prince Madoc ap
Meredith, made his escape out of prison, wherein he had
been detained by his uncle for a considerable time.

The same year, King Henry, being displeased with the
Flemings, whom his predecessor King Stephen had brought
over into England, issued a proclamation, charging the
greatest part of them to depart his dominions, and to retire

to

* For Mair— Saint Mary's Church.

HISTORY OF WALES. 159

to their countrymen in West Wales, where his grandfather,
Henry the First, the bastard's son, had planted them :* and
thus that part of Wales called Pembrokeshire was over-run
with these strangers, who, being more befriended by the
kings of England than the Welsh could expect to be, made
sure footing in that country, where they have ever since
continued firm. It was the English policy of those times to
accept any opportunity to curb and keep under the Welsh,
whom they found by experience to be unsafe neighbours,
and therefore the kings of England granted various lands
and privileges in Wales to any that would receive them,
which lands and privileges they had of right no power to
bestow.

This, however, was not detrimental enough to the Welsh ; A- D- 1156>
for the year following King Henry raised a very great
army, which he gathered from all parts of England, for the
purpose of subduing all North Wales,f being principally
moved hereto by the instigation of Cadwalader the prince's
brother, whom Owen Gwynedh, for reasons not known,
deprived of his estate, and banished the country. Madoc
ap Meredith Prince of Powys (who maligned the liberty
and privilege of the princes of North Wales, who owned
subjection to no other than the king of England, whereas
those of Powys were obliged to do homage to the prince of
North Wales) also jointly consented to this invitation.
The king of England accepted their proposals, led his
army to West-Chester, and encamped upon the marsh
called Saltney, which borders on the river Dee, in Welsh
Morfa-Caer-Lleon. Prince Owen, all this while, was not
ignorant of the intended invasion ; and therefore having
made all possible preparations to confront the enemy, he
marched his army to the frontiers of England, and, encamp-
injg at Basingwerk,J resolved to give the English battle.
King Henry being informed of the prince's resolution,
detached some of the best troops out of the main body,
under the command of several earls and other noblemen,
and sent them towards the prince's camp : but after they
had advanced some little way, and were passing through a
wood called Coed-Eulo,§ David and Conan, Prince Owen's

sons,

* Welsh Chron. p. 205.

f Such were the mighty preparations which this prince made for the conquest of
Wales, that he compelled every two of his military vassals throughout England to find a
soldier to reinforce his army, and to enable him with greater vigour to prosecute the war.
— Matth. Paris, p. 81. There were sixty thousand knights' fees created by the Con-
queror, which must make the levy of Henry raised at this time 30,000 men.— Hume's
Hist. Eng. vol. ii. p 2. Appendix, p. 141.

I Near Holywell, in the county of Flint. § Near Hawarden.

160 HISTORY OF WALES.

sons, unexpectedly set upon them, and by the advantage of
the ground and the suddenness of the action, the English
were repulsed with great slaughter, and those who survived
narrowly escaped to the king's camp.* This was a very
unwelcome beginning to King Henry ; but in order that he
might succeed better hereafter, he thought it advisable to
depart from Saltney and to arrange his troops along the sea-
coast, thinking thereby to get betwixt Prince Owen and
his country, which if he could effect, he thought he was
sure to place the Welsh in a state of very great inconveni-
ence : but the prince, foreseeing the danger of this, retired
with his army to a place called Cil Owen, that is, Owen's
Retreat, which when King Henry perceived, he relin-
Lib. 2. quished his design, and proceeded to Ruthlan. W. Parnus
cap. 5. writes, that in this expedition against the Welsh, King
Henry was in great danger of his life, in passing through a
strait at Counsyllt near Flint, where Henry Earl of Essex,
who by inheritance enjoyed the office of bearing the stand-
ard of England, being attacked by the enemy, cast down
the same and fled.f This accident encouraged the Welsh,
and they bore down so violently, that the king himself
narrowly escaped, having of his party Eustace Fitz-John
and Robert Curcie, two valiant knights, together with
several others of his nobility and gentry, slain in the action.^
After this, Prince Owen decamped from Cil Owen, and
intrenched himself upon Bryn y Pin,§ where little of moment
passed between the two armies, but some slight skirmishes
happened frequently. King Henry in the mean time forti-
fied the castle of Ruthlan, and during his stay there, Madoc
ap Meredith, Prince of Powys, sailed with the English fleet
to Anglesey, and having put some men on shore, they burnt
two churches, and ravaged part of the country about : but
they paid very dear for it, for all the strength of the island
being met together, they fell upon them in their return to
their ships, and cut them off, so that not one remained to
bring tidings to the fleet of what had befel him. They on
board, however, quickly perceived what had happened, and
therefore thought it not very safe to continue on that coast,

but

* Welsh Chron p. 206.

•f- The year following, Essex was accused of high treason by Roger de Montford 5 and
being vanquished by him in a single combat, which happened in consequence, he was
condemned to death by King Henry, though the severity of the sentence was after-
wards mitigated by that prince : his estate, however, was confiscated, and, after being
shorn like a monk, he was confined during his life in a convent. — Lord Lyttelton's History
of Henry II.

J Holinshead's Chron. p. 67— Chronica Gervasii p. 1380.

§ A stronger post, situate three miles west of St. Asaph. — Stowe's Chron. p. 109: a
manuscript copy in Welsh, by Caradoc of Llancarvan.

MlSTORY OF WALES. 161

but judging it more adviseable to weigh anchor, they set sail
for Chester;* when they were arrived thither, they found
that a peace was actually concluded betwixt King Henry
and Prince Owen, upon condition that Cadwalader should
have all his lands restored to him and be received to the
favour and friendship of his brother. Then King Henry,
leaving the castles of Ruthlan and Basin gwerk well manned
and fortified, and having near the latter founded a public
structure for the order of Knights Templars, returned to
England: but the troubles of Wales did not end with his
expedition, for lorwerdh Goch ap Meredith, who had taken
part with the king of England during this war, laid siege to
the castle of Yale, which was built by Prince Owen^ and,
making himself master of it, rased it to the ground.

The next year commenced with a very unfortunate action : A- D- 1157*
Ifor ap Meyric having long before cast a very wishful eye
upon the land and estate of Morgan ap Owen, was now
resolved to put in execution what he had before contrived,
and, as covetousness seldom bears any regard to virtue or
honour, he treacherously attacked him and slew him ; and
with him fell Gurgan ap Rhys, the most famous British
poet of his time. Morgan's estate Ifor bestowed upon his
brother lorwerth, who about the same time got also posses-
sion of the town of Caer-Lheon. These home-bred dis-
turbances were mitigated by a general peace, which was
shortly after this time concluded betwixt the king of Eng-
land and all the princes and lords of Wales, Rhys ap
Gruffydh ap Rhys Prince of South Wales only excepted :f
for this Prince Rhys, who probably would not rely impli-
citly upon the king of England's fidelity, refused to consent
to a peace ; but to secure himself as well as he could from
the English, whom he had too much reason to fear, he
thought it most prudent to issue orders, commanding his
subjects to remove their cattle and other effects to the
wilderness of Tywy, where they were likely to remain
secure from the eyes and reach of the enemy. He had not,
however, continued there Ions;, when he received a more
positive and express order from King Henry, commanding
him to appear forthwith at court, and to accept the pro-
posals of peace, before the joint forces of England and
Wales were sent to fetch him. Prince Rhys having re-
ceived

M

* Welsh Chron. p. 207.— Giraldus Cambr. Itin. lib. ii. cap. 7. William Newburgh,
lib. ii. cap. 5. Brompton's Chron. p. 1048.

t Rhys was the eldest of six towardly sons, which his father Gruffydd had by
Gwenllian, the fair daughter of Gruffydd ap Conan Prince of North Wales, and,
surviving them all, obtained the dominion of South Wales.— Pantou Papers.

162 HISTORY OF WALES.

ceived such a threatening message, thought fit to relinquish
the design that he had before so rashly resolved upon, and
therefore, after long consultation, he accepted the king's
proposal and appeared at court. It was there agreed, that
Khys, whose lands heretofore lay scattered about and were
intermixed with other persons' estates, should enjoy Cantref
Mawr, and any other Cantref which the king should be
pleased to bestow upon him : but contrary to this article,
the king assigned him several lordships and other lands far
remote from each other, and particularly intermixed them
with the estates of Englishmen, who he was sure would be a
watch and a curb to all the motions of Prince Rhys. This
was indeed a very politick contrivance of King Henry to
keep the high and restless spirit of Rhys in subjection ; but
the justice of the transaction does not so evidently appear
in thus breaking one of the chief articles of the peace, and
dismembering and bestowing that which was not justly in
his power to give : it is, however, manifestly apparent that
the English of these times were mainly determined right or
wrong to oppress and keep under the Welsh, whose mortal
dislike to subjection they had so frequently and so cruelly
experienced. Prince Rh}-s was not ignorant of these
wrongful and deceitful dealings of King Henry, but know-
ing himself to be unable to redress these grievances, he
thought it more advisable for a time to live in peace with a
little than rashly to hazard all. In a short time, however,
he had opportunity either of demanding redress from the
king or of endeavouring to obtain it himself by force of
arms : for as soon as Roger Earl of Clare was informed of
the distribution which the king of England had granted to
Prince Rhys, he came to King Henry, requesting his
majesty to grant him such lands in Wales as he could win
by force of arms. The king readily complied with his
request, being always willing to grant any thing which
tended to curb and incommode the Welsh ; and therefore
the Earl of Clare marched with a great army into Cardigan,
and having fortified the castles of Ystrad-Meyric, Humphrey,
Dyfi, Dynerth, and Lhanrhystyd, he made several incur-
sions into the country. In the same manner, Walter
Clifford, who was governor of Lhanymdhyfri castle, made
inroads into the territories of Prince Khys, and after he had
slain several of the Welsh, and made great waste in the
country, returned with considerable booty.

Prince Rhys, as he was unable to bear these outrages,
was resolved either to have immediate redress or else to
proclaim open war against the English; and therefore he

sent

HISTORY OF WALES. 163

sent an express to King Henry, complaining of the hostilities
which his subjects (the Earl of Clare and Walter Clifford)
had committed in his country; but finding that the king
put him still off with only smooth words and fair promises,
and that he always winked at the faults of the English and
Normans, he, without any farther consultation about the
matter, laid siege to the castle of Lhanymdhyfri, and in a
short time made himself master of it. Also Eineon, the
son of Anarawd, Rhys's brother's son, and a person of great
valour, being desirous to free his country from the miserable
servitude they now groaned under, and judging withal that
his uncle was now discharged from the oath he had lately
sworn to the king of England, attacked the castle of
Humphrey, and having forcibly made his entrance into it,
he put all the garrison to the sword, where he found a great
number of horses, and armour wherewith to equip a consi-
derable body of men. Whilst Eineon was thus engaged at
Humphrey's castle, Prince Rhys, perceiving that he could
not enjoy any part of his inheritance but what he obtained
by the sword, drew all his power together and entered
Cardigan, where, like a violent torrent, he over-ran the
country, so that he left not one castle standing of those
which 'his enemies had fortified, and thus brought all the
country to his subjection. King Henry being much of-
fended at the progress which Prince Rhys so suddenly made
against him, returned with a great army into South Wales,,
but finding it to no purpose to attempt any thing against
the Prince, he thought it more advisable to permit him to
retain all that he had won, and only to take hostages* for
his keeping peace during his absence out of the kingdom,
which Prince Rhys promising to do, lie forthwith returned
to England, and soon after went to Normandy, where he
concluded a peace with the French king.

The year following, Prince Rhys of South Wales, with- A. D. 1158.
out any regard to his promise made to King Henry the
preceding year, led his forces to Dyfed, destroyed all
the castles that the Normans had fortified in that country,
and then laid siege to Caermardhyn ; but Reynold Earl of
Bristol, the king's illegitimate son, being informed of it,
called together the Earl of Clare, his brother-in-law Cad-
walader, Prince Owen of North Wales's brother, Howel
and Conan (Owen's sons), with two Earls more, who with
their joint forces marched to raise the siege. Prince Rhys
was too prudent to abide their coming, and therefore, upon

the

JVI 2

* He was obliged to deliver up his iwo sons as pledges for his future obedience.—
Lord Lyttelton's Henry II. vol. ii. p. 79.

164 HISTORY OF WALES.

the first intimation of such an opposition, he retired to the
mountains called Cefn Rester and there encamped, being
sufficiently secure from any enemy by the natural fortifica-
tion of the place. The confederate army lay at Dynwylhir,
and there built a castle ; but hearing no tidings of Prince
Rhys, they returned home without effecting any thing of
note.* King Henry was still in Normandy, and there made
war against the Earl of St. Giles for the city and earldom
of Tholouse.

A.D. 1160. Towards the beginning of this year, Madoc ap Meredith
ap Blethyn, Prince of Powys, died at Winchester, whence
his body was honourably conveyed to Powys and buried at
Meivod.f He was a Prince very much affected to piety
and religion, very charitable to the necessitous, and benevo-
lent to the distressed; but his great fault was, that he
strove too hard for the interest of the English, and was
always in confederacy with King Henry against the good
success of his native country. He had issue by his wife
Susanna, the daughter of Gruffydh ap Conan, Prince of
North Wales, three sons, Gruftydh Maylor, Owen, and
Elis, and a daughter named Marred. He had also three
natural sons, Owen Brogynton, Cynwric Efelh, and Eineon
Efelh, who though base born, yet according to the custom
of Wales, co-inherited with their brethren who were
legitimate.

And here it will not be amiss to give a particular account
of that portion of the principality, afterwards known as the
Lordships of Powys, how it came to be divided into many
shares, and by that means became so irrecoverably broken
and weakened, that it was made subject to the Normans
before the rest of Wales ; for Powys before King Offa's
time reached eastwards to the rivers Severn and Dee, in a
right line from the end of Broxton hills to Salop, and com-
prehended all the country between the Wye and Severn,
which was anciently the estate of Brochwel Yscithroc, of
whom mention has been made in this work : but after the
making of Offa's dike, Powys was contracted into a narrower
compass, the plain country towards Salop being inhabited
by Saxons and Normans, so that the length of it com-
mencing north-east from Pulford bridge extended to
LlangiricJ parish on the confines of Cardiganshire to the
south-west, and the breadth from the farthest part of
Cyfeilioc westward, to Ellesmere on the east-side. This

principality

* Welsh Chron. p. 210.

f Meivod in Montgomeryshire, the usual burying-place of his family. — From this period
the descendants of the princes of South Wales possessed no sovereign authority.

J Llangerig.

HISTORY OF WALES. 165

principality, Roderic the Great gave to his youngest son
Merfyn, in whose posterity it remained entire, till the death
of Blethyn ap Confyn, who divided it betwixt his sons
Meredith and Cadwgan; yet it came again whole and
entire to the possession of Meredith ap Blethyn, but he
again broke the union, and left it between his two sons
Madawc and Gruflfydh ; the first of whom was married to
Susanna, the daughter of Gruffydh ap Conan, Prince of
North Wales, and had with her that part, afterwards called
by his name — Powys Fadoc. After his death this lordship
was divided also betwixt his sons Gruflfydh Maelor, Owen
ap Madawc, and Owen Brogynton, which last, though base
born, had, for his incomparable valour and courage, a share
of his father's estate, namely, Edeyrneon and Dinmael,
which he left to his sons Gruffydh, Blethyn, and lorwerth.
Owen ap Madawc had to his portion Mechain-is-Coed, and
had issue Lhewelyn and Owen Fychan. Gruffydh Maelor,
the eldest son, Lord of Bromfield, had to his part, both the
Maelors with Mochnant-is-Raydar, and married Angharad,
the daughter of Owen Gwynedh, Prince of North Wales,
by whom he had issue one son named Madawc, who held
his father's inheritance entirely, and left it so to his only son
Gruffydh, who was called Lord of Dinas Bran, because he
lived in that castle: he married Emma, the daughter of
James Lord Audley, by whom "he had issue Madawc,
Lhewelyn, Gruffydh, and Owen. This Gruffydh ap
Madawc took part with King Henry the Third and
Edward the First against the Prince of North Wales ; and,
therefore, for fear of the said prince, he was forced to keep
himself secure within his castle of Dinas Bran, which being
situated upon the summit of a very steep hill, seemed
impregnable to all efforts that could be used against it.
After his death, Edward the First dealt very unkindly with
his children, who were of age to manage their own
concerns ; and it nas been said that he caused two of them
to be privately made away. He bestowed the wardship of
Madoc, the eldest son, who had by his father's will the
Lordships of Bromfield and Yale, with the reversion of
Maelor Saesnec, Hopesdale, and Mouldsdale, his mother's
jointure, on John Earl Warren ; and the wardship of
Lhewelyn, to whose share fell the Lordships of Chirk e and
Nanheudwy, he gave to Roger Mortimer, third son to
Roger Mortimer the son of Ralph Mortimer, Lord Mor-
timer of Wigmor : but Emma, Gruffydh's wife, having in
her possession, for her dowry, Maelor Saesnec, Hopesdale,
and Mouldsdale, with the presentation of Bangor rectory,

and

166 HISTORY OF WALES.

and seeing two of her sons disinherited and put away, and
the fourth dead without issue, and doubting lest Gruffydh
her only surviving child should not long continue, she
conveyed her estate to the Audleys, her own kindred, who
getting possession of it, took the same from the king, and
from them it came to the house of Derby, where it continued
for a long time- till at length it was sold to Sir John
Glynne, serjeant-at-law, in whose family it still remaineth.
Earl Warren and Roger Mortimer forgetting wrhat signal
service Gruffydh ap Madoc had performed for the king,
guarded their new possessions with such caution and strict-
ness, that they took especial care they should never return
to any of the posterity of the legal proprietor ; and, there-
fore, having obtained the king's patent, they began to
secure themselves in the said lordships. John Earl War-
ren commenced building Holt castle, which was finished by
his son William, and so the Lordships of Bromfield and
Yale continued in the name of the Earls of Warren for
three descents, viz. John, William, and John, who dying
without issue, the said lordships, together with the Earl-
dom of Warren, descended to Alice, sister and heir to the
last John Earl Warren, who was married to Edmond Fitz
Alan, Earl of Arundel, in whose house they further
remained for three descents, namely, Edmund, Richard,
Richard his son, and Thomas Earl of Arundel; but for
want of issue to this last, Thomas Earl of Arundel and
Warren, the said lordships fell to two of his sisters,
whereof one named Elizabeth, was married to Thomas
Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, and the other called Joan,
to William Beauchamp, Lord of Abergavenny : and
subsequently they came to the hands of Sir William Stan-
ley, Knight, who being attainted of high treason, they
devolved by forfeiture to the crown, and now are annexed to
the principality of Wales. Roger Mortimer, the other
sharer in the lands of Gruffydh ap Madoc, was made
Justice of North Wales, built the castle of Chirk, and
married Lucia, the daughter and heir of Sir Robert de
Wafre, Knight, by whom he had issue Roger Mortimer,
who was married to Joan Tubervill, by whom he had John
Mortimer, Lord of Chirk. This John sold the Lordship
of Chirk to Richard Fitz Alan, Earl of Arundel, Edmund's
son, and so it was again annexed to Bromfield and Yale.

The third son of Gruffydh Lord of Dinas Br&n, named
also Gruffydh, had for his part Glyndwrdwy, which
Gruffydh ap Gruffydh had issue Madoc Crupl, who was the
father of Madoc Fychan, the father of Gruffydh, the father

of

HISTORY OF WALES. 167

of Gruffydh Fychan, who was the father of Owen Glyndwr,
who rebelling in the days of Henry the Fourth, Glyndwrdwy
by confiscation came to the King, of whom it was afterwards
purchased by Robert Salisbury of Rug, to whose descend-
ants it still remaineth, having passed, through heirs female,
into the family of Vaughan of Nannau. Owen, the fourth
son of Gruffydh Lord of Dinas Bran, had for his share
Cynlhaeth, with the rights and privileges thereunto belong-
ing. The other part of Powys, comprehending the coun-
tries of Arustly, Cyfeilioc, Lhannerch-hudol, Caereineon,
Mochnant-uwch-Rhayadr, Mechain-uwch-Coed, Moudhwy,
Deudhwr, Ystrad Marchelch, and Teir-Tref or the Three
Towns, rightfully descended to Gruffydh ap Meredith ap
Blethyn, by Henry the First created Lord Powys, who
married Gweyrvyl or Weyrvyl the daughter of Urgene ap
Howel ap lefaf ap Cadogan ap Athelstan Glodryth, by
whom he had issue Owen surnamed Cyfeilioc. This Owen
enjoyed his father's estate entire, and married Gwenlhian
the daughter of Owen Gwynedh Prince of North Wales,
who bore him one son, named Gwenwynwyn or Wenwyn-
wyn, from whom that part of Powys was afterwards called
Powys Wenwynwyn. He had also an illegitimate brother
called Caswalhon, upon whom was bestowed the lands of
Swydh Lhannerch-hudol, and Broniarth. Gwenwynwyn
succeeded his father in all his estate, excepting the portion
given to Caswalhon, and married Margaret the daughter
of Rhys ap Theodore Prince of South Wales, by whom lie
had Gruffydh ap Gwenwynwyn, who succeeding his father
in all his possessions, had issue six sons, by Margaret the
daughter of Robert Corbet, brother to Thomas Lord Corbet
of Cause ; and so the entire estate of Gruffydh ap Meredith
ap Blethyn Lord of Powys became scattered, and shred into
various portions. Owen, Gruffydh ap Gwenwynwyn's
eldest son, had for his part Arustly, Cyfeilioc, Lhannerch-
hudol, and a part of Caereineon ; Lhewelyn had Mochnant-
uwch-Rhayadr and Mechain-uwch-Coed ; John, the third
son, had the fourth part of Caereineon; William had
Moudhwy; Gruffydh Fychan had Deudhwr, Ystrat-Mar-
chelh, and Teir Tref ; and David, the sixth and youngest
son, had the other fourth part of Caereineon. Owen ap
Gruffydh had issue only one daughter, named Hawys
Gadarn, or the Hardy, whom he left his heir; but her
uncles Lhewelyn, John, Gruffydh Fychan, and David,
thinking it an easy matter to dispossess an orphan, claimed
the lands of their brother Owen, alleging as the ground of
their usurpation, that a woman was not capable of holding

any

168 HISTORY OF WALES.

any lands in that country : but Hawys had friends in Eng-
land, and her case was made known to King Edward the
Second, who bestowed her in marriage upon a servant of
his,* named John Charleton, termed Valectys domini regisrf
who was bom at Apley near Wellington, in the county of
Salop, anno one thousand two hundred and sixty-eight, and
in her right the king created him Lord Powys.

This John Charleton ,{ Lord Powys, being aided and sup-
ported by the King of England, quickly set aside all the
measures of his wife's uncles, and having taken Lhewelyn,
John, and David, he put them in safe custody, in the king's
castle of Harlech ; and then obtained a writ from the king
to the sheriff of Shropshire, and to Sir Roger Mortimer,
Lord of Chirkland and justice of North Wales, for the
apprehension of Gruffydh Fychan, with his sons-in-law, Sir
Roger Chamber and Hugh Montgomery, who were then in
actual hostility against him and his wife Hawys : but
Gruffydh Fychan and his accomplices doubting their own
strength, and haying lost Thomas Earl of Lancaster, their
main support, thought it most adviseable to submit them-
selves to the king's pleasure, touching the difference betwixt
them and Hawys ; who finding upon record that Gruffydh
ap Meredith, ancestor to the said Hawys, upon his sub-
mission to King Henry the First, became subject to the
King of England, and thereupon was created Baron of
Powys, which barony he and his posterity had ever since
held in capite from the king, was of opinion that Hawys had
more right to her father's possessions, now in their hands,
than any pretence they could lay to her estate. To make,
therefore, a final determination of this matter, and to com-
pose the difference more amicably betwixt them, it was
agreed that Hawys should enjoy her inheritance in fee-
simple to her and her heirs for ever, after the tenure of
England; and that her uncles Lhewelyn, John, David, and

Gruffydh,

* A gentleman of his chamber,
f Valectus regis : hence Valet. — Yorke, p. 78.

J He was, says Mr. Yorke, " the first lord of an English house, the son pf Sir Alan
Charleton, a man of civil and military habits, had attended his sovereign, moreover, as
his chamberlain in his frequent and unfortunate northern expeditions. He followed for
a time then the reforming factions of Lancaster, the refuge and receptacle of all that were
distressed and discontented ; was defeated and taken with them at Boroughbridge, but
escaped the proscriptions which ensued ; came again into favour, and suffered in the
insurrection against the king, when his house was pillaged by the London mob. Our old
books speak of him in high esteem for his fidelity, prudence, and valour, nor amidst his
greater employments had he neglected the interests and accommodation of his country-
men ; and he obtained from Edward the Second two weekly markets at Pool and
Machynlleth, and two fairs in the year at each place. He died in 1353, at the age of
85 years. His wife, the Powys heiress, died some time before, and was buried in the
dissolved house of the Grey Friars of her own foundation in Shrewsbury." — Yorke's
Royal Tribes, p\ 79.

HISTORY OF WALES. 169

Gruffydh, should quietly enjoy their portion, and the same
to descend to their heirs male perpetually ; but in default of
such heirs male, the same was to descend to Hawys and her
heirs : but William Lord of Moudhwy, the fourth brother,
called otherwise Wilcock Moudhwy, because he did not
join with the rest against Hawys, had all his lands confirmed
to him, and to his heirs male and female for ever. He
married Elianor, the sister of Ellen, Owen Glyndwr's
mother, who was lineally descended from Rhys ap Theodore,
Prince of South Wales, by whom he had issue John de
Moudhwy; whose daughter Elizabeth, being heir to his
whole estate, was married to Sir Hugh Burgh, knight.
His son, Sir John Burgh, Lord of Moudhwy, married Jane
the daughter of Sir William Clopton of Gloucestershire, by
whom he had four daughters, Elizabeth, Ancreda, Isabel,
and Elianor; the first of whom was married to Thomas
Newport ; the second to John Leighton of Stretton ; the
third to John Lingen ; and the younger to Thomas Mytton ;
who, by equal distribution, had the lordship of Moudhwy
and other estates of the Burghs divided betwixt them.

John Charleton Lord of Powys had issue by his wife
Hawys a son named John,* who enjoyed the same lordship
for about seven years, and then left it to his son, of the same
name, who wras Lord of Powys fourteen years ; and then it
descended to his son, called also John Charleton, who en-
joyed his father's estate twenty-seven years; but dying
without issue, the lordship of Powys fell to his brother
Edward Charleton. This Edward had issue by his wife
Elianor, the daughter and one of the heirs of Thomas Earl
of Kent, and the widow of Roger Mortimer Earl of March,
two daughters, Jane and Joyce ; the first of which was
married to Sir John Grey, knight ; and the second to John
Lord Tiptoft, whose son was by King Henry VI. created
Earl of Worcester. After the death of Elianor, this Edward
Lord Powys married Elizabeth the daughter of Sir John
Berkeley, knight; and so after his death, which happened
in the year 1420, the lordship of Powys was divided into
three parts, whereof his widow Elizabeth had for her
jointure Lhannerch-hudol, Ystrad Marchelh, Deudhwr, and
Teir Tref, and was afterwards married to Lord Dudley;
Jane, his eldest daughter, had Caereineon, Mechain, Moch-
nant, and Plasdinas ; and Joyce had Cyfeilioc and Arustly ;
but the lordship of Powys continued in the family of Sir

John

* He was summoned to parliament from the 28th to the 47th of Edward the Third,
was Chamberlain of the Household to this king, as his father had been to his predecessor,
and attended him in that useless and expensive expedition to France in 1339, as he did
his son the Black Prince in the same kingdom and to the same effect in 1375.

170 HISTORY OF WALES.

John Grey for five descents, in right of his wife Jane ; the
last of whom, Edward Grey, Lord Powys, married Anne,
one of the daughters and co-heirs of Charles Brandon, Duke
Dugdale of Suffolk, and died without any lawful issue. This Edward
^mEH§1' Lord Powys> in 15 Henry VIII. accompanied the Duke of
p. 284. Suffolk in the expedition then made into France, and was at
the taking of Bray, and other places then won from the
French. And in 36 Henry VIII. being again ready to
march in the King's service, he made his last testament,
whereby he settled the succession of his whole barony and
lordship of Powys, his castle and manor of Pool, with divers
other lordships in the county of Montgomery, and all the
rest of his estate in the county of Salop, upon the heirs of
his own body lawfully begotten or to be begotten ; and in
default of such issue, his castle and manor of Charleton and
Pontesbury in Shropshire, upon Jane Orwell, daughter of
Sir Lewis Orwell, knight, and her assigns, during her
natural life ; and in case he should die without any issue of
his own body lawfully begotten, that then Edward Grey,
his illegitimate son by the same Jane Orwell, should have
and enjoy his said barony and manor of Powys, his castle
and manor of Pool, and all other his lordships in the county
of Montgomery ; with the reversion of the castle and manor
of Charleton and Pontesbury, to him and his heirs lawfully
begotten ; and for lack of such issue, to remain to that child,
in case it should be a son, wherewith the same Jane Orwell
was then great by him, and to the heirs of his body lawfully
begotten : but if it should not prove a son, or if the son die
without issue, then that the whole barony of Powys, and all
the premises before-mentioned, should come to Jane Grey,
his daughter, and to the heirs of her body lawfully begotten ;
and for lack of such issue, to Anne Grey, his other daugh-
ter, and the heirs of her body lawfully begotten; and
lastly, for default of such issue, to such woman-child as
should be born of the body of the said Jane Orwell. After
the death of Edward Grey, the title of Lord of Powys lay
extinct to the fifth year of King Charles I. when Sir William
Herbert, son of Sir Edward Herbert, of Redcastle (anciently
called Pool Castle, now Powys Castle), in the county of
Montgomery, second son to William Earl of Pembroke, to
whom the castle had come by purchase, was advanced to the
dignity of a baron of the realm, by the title of Lord Powys
of Powys, in the marches of Wales ; in whose descendants it
still continues, though the title has been changed from a
baron to an earl, and subsequently to a marquis and a duke,
afterwards to an earl, and then by a new creation to an earl
again, in the person of Edward Lord Clive now Earl of

Powys,

HISTORY OF WALES. 171

Powys, whose wife was sister and heir to the last Earl of
Powys of the Herbert family.

About the same time that Madoc ap Meredith Prince of
Powys died, Cadwalhon ap Madawc ap Ednerth, who had
been for some considerable time at variance with his brother
Eineon Clyd, was taken prisoner by him, who delivered him
up to Owen Prince of North Wales ; but the prince being
willing to gratify the King of England, whose interest
Cadwalhon had as much as in him lay opposed, sent him to
the king's officers to be imprisoned at Winchester; from
whence he quickly found means to escape : and by the ad-
vice of the rest of his brethren he returned home to his
country. King Henry continued all this while in Nor-
mandy, and during his stay there, a match was agreed upon
betwixt his son Henry and Margaret daughter to Lewis
King of France : but this new alliance did not prevent these
two monarchs from falling at variance with each other,
which happened the year following; and thereupon King
Henry marched with his army into Gascoyne, to quell
certain rebels, who upon first notice of this breach between
the two kings were up in arms against the English. The
next year a peace was again concluded, and so all things A.D. 1161.
returned to their former state of amity and quietness.

It was not so, however, in Wales ; for Howel the son of
levaf ap Cadwgan ap Athelstan Glodryth, having got into
his hands the castle of Walwern in Cyfeilioc, razed it to the
ground, which so incensed Prince Owen,* who was owner
of it, that nothing could allay his fury, till he had drawn his
forces together, and made an incursion into Lhandinam in
Arustly, HowePs country ; which he cruelly harassed, and
carried away considerable booty. The people of the country
perceiving these devastations of the North Wales men, came
together to the number of three hundred men, offering their
service to their natural lord, Howel ap levaf, who, upon this
addition of strength, followed the enemy to the banks of
Severn, where they were encamped. Prince Owen, finding
them to march after him, was glad of the opportunity to be
further revenged upon Howel; and so turning suddenly
upon them, he slew about two hundred men; the rest
narrowly escaping with Howel to the woods and rocks.
Owen being more joyful for the revenge he had taken of
Howel, than for any victory he had gained, rebuilt
Walwerh castle, and having well fortified and manned it,
returned home to North Wales.

The year following, the like thing happened; Owen the iiea.

son

* He was styled Owen Cyveilioc, and had a district called by that name, which
contained nearly half of PowyB. — Welsh Chron. pp.210, 211.

172 HISTORY OF WALES.

son of Gruffydh ap Meredith, commonly called Owen
Cyfeilioc o Wynedh, together with Owen ap Madawc ap
Meredith and Meredith ap Howel, set upon Carreghofa*
castle near Oswestry, and having overpowered the garrison,
committed great waste and destruction therein. About the
same time, a singular quarrel happened in England; Robert
Mountford and Henry de Essex, who had both fought
against the Welsh upon the marches and fled, began now to
impeach each other as being the first occasion of flying.
The dispute was to be tried by single combat, in which
being engaged Henry was overcome; and for his falsely
accusing Robert, he was sentenced to have his estate for-
feited, and then having his crown shorn, he was entered a
monk at Redding. Within a little time after, King Henry,
calling to mind what Prince Rhys had committed during
his absence from the kingdom, drew up a great army
against South Wales, and having marched as far as Pen-
cadyr, near Brecknock, Rhts met him and did his homage ;
and delivering up hostages for his future behaviour, f he
stopped the king's progress, so that thence he returned to
England. After the king's departure, two very unhappy
affairs occurred in Wales ; Eineon the son of Anarawd ap
Gruffydh, nephew to Prince Rhys, being villainously mur-
dered in his bed by his own servant, called Walter ap
Lhywarch ; as also Cadwgan ap Meredith, in like manner,
by one Walter ap Riccart : but the loss of his nephew
Prince Rhys made up, by possessing himself of that large
country called Cantref Mawr, and the land of Dynefawr,
which he afterwards enjoyed. Of men of learning there
died this year, Cadifor ap Daniel, Archdeacon of Cardigan ;
and Henry ap Arthen, the greatest scholar that had
flourished in Wales for many years.

A. D. lies. The next year, a total rupture broke forth betwixt the
English and Welsh ; Prince Rhys,} a man of an active and
uncontroulable spirit, being now aware by experience that
he could not sustain the greatness of his quality, with such
lands as the King of England had allotted him, made an
invasion into the Lordship of Roger de Acre, Earl of
Gloucester; being moved thereto, in a great measure, by
reason that his nephew Anarawd ap Gruffydh was murdered
at that Earl's instigation. Having advanced with a strong
army into the Earl of Gloucester's estate, without any great
opposition he took Aberheidol castle,§ with those be-
longing to the sons of Wyhyaon, which he rased to the

ground

* Garreg Hova, six miles from Oswestry, in the parish of Llanymynech, which part of
that parish lies in the county of Denbigh.

f Welsh Chron.p. 220. J Rhys ap Gryffydh.

§ On the conflux of the rivers Rheidol and Ystwyth.

HISTORY OF WALES. 173

ground. Thence he marched to Cardigan, bringing all
that country under his subjection; and from thence he
marched against the Flemings, whose country he cruelly
harassed with fire and sword. The rest of the estates of
Wales, perceiving Prince Rhys to prosper so successfully
against the English, thought they might equally succeed,
and shake off the English yoke, by which they were un-
reasonably oppressed. Therefore they unanimously agreed
to cast off their subjection to the English, whose tyranny
they could no longer bear, and to put over them princes of
their own nation, whose superiority they could better
tolerate, and so this year concluded with making suitable
preparations for the following campaign.

As soon as the time of year for action was advanced, A. D. 1164.
David, son of Owen, Prince of North Wales, fell upon
Flintshire, which pertained to the King of England ; and
carrying off all the people and cattle with him, brought
them to Dyffryn Clwyd, otherwise Ruthyn-land.* King
Henry understanding this, gathered together his forces, and
with all speed marched to defend both his subjects and
towns from the incursions and depredations of the Welsh.
Being come to Rhuddlan or Rhuthlan and encamped there
three days, he soon perceived he could effect no great
measure, because his army was not sufficiently numerous ;
and, therefore, he thought it most advisable to return back
to England, and to augment his forces, before he should
attempt any thing against the Welsh :f and accordingly he
levied the most chosen men throughout all his dominions
of England, Normandy, Anjou, Gascoyne, and Guienne,
besides obtaining aid from Flanders and Britanriy, and then
set forward for North Wales, purposing to destroy without
mercy every living thing he could possibly meet with ; and
being advanced as far as Croes-Oswalt, called Oswestry, he
encamped there. On the other side, Prince Owen and his
brother Cadwalader, with all the strength of North Wales;
Prince Rhys with those of South Wales ; Owen Cyfeilioc
and Madawc ap Meredith with all the power of Powys ; the
two sons of Madawc ap Ednerth, with the people living
betwixt the rivers of Severn and Wye, met together, and
pitched their camp at Corwen in Edeymeon, intending
unanimously to defend their country against the King of
England. King Henry understanding that they were so
near, was very desirous to come to battle ; and to that end
he removed to the banks of the river Ceiriog,J causing all

the

* WeIshChron.p.221.

f Brompton Chron. sub ann. 1165. Chronica Gervasii, p. 1398. Giraldus Cambrensis
Itin. lib. ii. cap. 10.

J A river in the county of Denbigh, which runs through a vale of that name.

174 HISTORY OF WALES.

the woods thereabouts to be cut down, for fear of any
ambushment lurking therein, and for a more clear prospect
of the enemy :* but some of the Welsh took advantage of
this opportunity, and being well acquainted with the pas-
sage, without the knowledge of their officers, fell upon the
king's guard, where all the pikemen were posted; and after
a hot skirmish, several were slain on both sides : in the end,
however, the king won the passage, and so marched on to
the mountain of Berwyn, where he lay some time without
any hostility on either side, both armies standing in fear of
each other. The English kept the open plains, and were
afraid to be entrapped in the straits and narrow passages ;
and the Welsh on the other hand watched the advantage of
the place ; and observed the English so narrowly, that
neither forage or victuals could pass to the king's camp ;
and what augmented the misery of the English army, there
happened to fall a tremendous rain, that overflowed their
encampment, in so much that with the slipperiness of the
hills, the soldiers could scarcely stand ; eventually King
Henry was forced to decamp, and after a very considerable
loss of men and ammunition, besides the great charges of
this expedition, was compelled to return back to England.
To express how much dissatisfaction he entertained at this
enterprize, he in a great fury caused to be plucked out the
eyes of the hostages, that he had some time before received
from the Welsh; which were Rhys and Cadwalhon, the
sons of Owen Prince of North Wales, and Cynric and
Meredith, the sons of Rhys of South Wales. f Some
write, that in assailing a bridge, in this expedition, the
king was in no small danger of his life : one of the Welsh
having aimed directly at him, would have pierced him
through the body, had not Hubert de Clare, Constable of
Colchester, who perceived the arrow coming, thrust himself
betwixt the king and it, although to the loss of his own
life.*

Though King Henry was shamefully forced to return to
England, yet he did not give up the idea of subduing the
Welsh ; and therefore, after a long consultation, he made a
third expedition into Wales, conveying his army by sea as
far as Chester. There he staid for some time, till all his

fleet

* Welsh Chron. p. 221.

f Holinshead's Chron. p. 73, says that, " besides those above-mentioned, he caused the
sons and daughters of several lords to be treated with the same severity, ordering the
eyes of the young striplings to be pecked out of their heads, and the ears of the young
gentlewomen to be stuffed."

t Welsh Chron. p. 222. —Holinshead's Chron. p. 73, says, " This accident happened at
the siege of Bridgenorth."

HISTORY OF WALES. 175

fleet, as well those ships that he had hired out of Ireland as
his own, were arrived : but when they were all come together
and got safely to Chester, his mind was altered; and
instead of a design against Wales, he unexpectedly dismissed
his whole army. Prince Rhys was glad of this opportunity,
and therefore withdrawing his forces from the confederate
army, he marched to the siege of Aberteifi castle, which
being surrendered to him, he rased it to the ground. From
thence he got before Cilgerran,* which he used after the
same manner, and therein took prisoner Robert the son of
Stephen, his cousin-german, who was the son of Nest his
aunt, and who after the death of Gerald had married Stephen
Constable. The joy of these successes on the part of the
Welsh was somewhat clouded by the death of Lhewelyn,
son of Owen Prince of North Wales, a person of great
worth, and exceedingly well beloved of all his countrymen.

The Welsh being now somewhat secure from any inva- A, D. 1165.
sion from the English, there rose up another enemy to
create them disturbance; the Flemings and Normans, find-
ing the English had failed in their attempt against the
Welsh, thought they might with better success invade and
subdue them; and therefore they came to West Wales
with a great army, and laid siege to the castle of Cilgerran,
which Rhys had lately fortified; but after two different
assaults, they were manfully beat back and forced to depart
home again : however, what the Flemings could not effect
against the Welsh in South Wales the Welsh easily brought
about against the English in North Wales; for Prince
Owen having besieged Basingwerk castle, then in the pos-
session of the king of England, without much time spent,
made himself master of it.f It was, however, always the
misfortune of the Welsh, that when they found themselves
secure from any enemy abroad, they were sure to quarrel
and fall out at home ; though indeed it could not be other-
wise expected, where so many petty states endeavoured to
surmount and outvie each other. Now, therefore, when all
things went very successfully on their side, in opposition to
the English, two ambitious persons began to kindle a flame
in the bosom of their own country : Owen Cyfeilioc, the son
of Gruflfydh ap Meredith Lord of Powys, and Owen Fychan,
second son to Madawc ap Meredith, forcibly dispossessed
lorwerth Goch of his estate in Powys, which they divided
betwixt themselves, — Mochnan-uwch-Rayader to Owen
Cyfeilioc, and Mochnant-is-Rayader to Owen Fychan : but

the

* Situated on the banks of the river Tivi, near Caerdigan.
t Welsh Chron. p. 223.

176 HISTORY OF WALES.

A.D. 1166. the rest of the princes of Wales could not brook this injury
done to lorwerth Goch ; and therefore Owen Prince of
North Wales, with his brother Cadwalader, and Rhys
Prince of South Wales, went with an army into Powys
against Owen Cyfeilioc,* and, having chased him out of the
country, they bestowred Caereineon upon Owen Fychan, to
hold it of Prince Owen ; and Rhys had Walwern, by reason
that it lay near his own territories.f Within a while after,
Owen Cyfeilioc returned with a numerous band of Normans
and English along with him, and laid siege to the castle of
Caereineon, which he burnt to the ground : but the loss of
this place was made up by the taking of Rhuddlan castle,
which Owen, Rhys, and Cadwalader jointly besieged ;
and which was so strongly fortified, and so manfully
defended, that it cost them three months before they could
1176. make themselves masters of the place. Afterwards they
won the castle of Prestatyn, and reduced the whole country
of Tegengl subject to Prince Owen ; and then returned
home to their respective dominions. Henceforward nothing
of moment was transacted during the remainder of Prince
Owen's reign, only his son Conan most unmercifully slew
Urgency, Abbot of Lhwythlawr, together with his nephew

1168. Lhawthen : but a little after, Prince Rhys of South Wales
released out of prison his nephew Robert, son to Stephen
Constable, whom, as is said before, he had taken at the
siege of Cilgerran castle, and sent him to Ireland to the aid
of Dermot, the son of Murchart, King of Leinster, who was
then in actual war with the King of Leinster. With him
and his brother Morris Fitz-Gerald, and their nephews
Robert, Meyler, and Raymond, went over a strong detach-
ment of Welshmen, under the command of Richard Strong-
bow, Earl of Strigul, who were the chief movers of the
conquest of Ireland, when it was first brought in subjection
to the crown of England.

1169. But the next year, Owen Gwynedh, son of Gruflfydh ap
Conan, Prince of North Wales, departed this life in the
thirty-second year of his reign.:}: He was a wise and valour-
ous prince, ever fortunate and victorious in all his under-
takings, insomuch that he never undertook any design but
what he accomplished. He had by different women several
children, who got themselves greater esteem by their valour,
than by their birth and parentage. He had by Gwladus,

the

* Welsh Chron. pp. 223, 2-24.

f Brit. Ant. Reviv. by Vaughan of Hengwrt, pp. 5, 6.

J He was buried in the cathedral church of Bangorj and had by different women
twenty-one children.

HISTORY OF WALES. 177

the daughter of Lhywarch ap Trahaern ap Caradoc, lorwerth
Drwyndwn, or lorwerth with the broken nose, Conan,
Maelgon, and Gwenlhian; by Christian the daughter of
Grono ap Owen ap Edwyn, he had David, Roderic,*
Cadwalhon abbot of Bardsey, and Angharad afterwards
married to Gruffydh Maylor. He had by other women
several other children, as Conan, Lhewelyn, Meredith,
Edwal, Rhun, Howel, Cadelh, Madawc, Eineon, Cynwric,
Philip, and Ryrid Lord of Clochran in Ireland. OfHhese,
Rhun, Lhewelyn, and Cynwric died before their father; and
the rest will be mentioned in the sequel of this history. f

DAVID AP OWEN.

X RINCE Owen Gwynedh being dead, the succession
should of right have descended to his eldest legitimate son,
lorwerth Drwyndwn, otherwise called Edward with the
broken nose ; but by reason of that blemish upon his face,
he was laid aside as unfit to take upon hirii the government
of North Wales.J Therefore his younger brothers began
every one to aspire, in hopes of succeeding their father; but A.D. 1170.
Howel, who was of all the eldest, but base born, begotten
of an Irish woman, finding they could not agree, stept in
himself and took upon him the government. David, how-
ever, who was legitimately born, could riot brook that a
bastard should ascend his father's throne; and therefore
he made air the preparations possible to remove him.
Howel on the other hand was determined to maintain his
ground, and was not willing thus to deliver up what he so
recently got possession of; and so both brothers meeting
together in the field, were resolved to try their title by the
point of the sword. The battle had not lasted long before
Howel was slain ; and then David was unanimously pro-
claimed and acknowledged Prince of North Wales,§ which
principality he enjoyed without any molestation, till Lhe-
welyn, lorwerth Drwyndwn's son, came of age, as will
hereafter appear. It is said that Madawc, another of Owen
Gwynedh's sons, perceiving these contentions among his

brothers

N

* Lord of Anglesey. f History of Gwedir family, p. 3.

J He had however assigned him, for his maintenance, a part of his father's inheritance :
the cantrevs of Kanconwy and Ardudwy ; and resided at the caslle of Dolwyddelan,
situate in the county of Carnarvon. -History of Gwedir family, p. 7.— This prince was
afterwards obliged to take sanctuary at Pennant Melangel in Montgomeryshire, where he
died.

§ Welsh Chron p. 227.— Memoir of Gwedir family,'p. 7.

178 HISTORY OF WALES.

brothers for the principality, and that his native country was
likely to be embroiled in a civil war, deemed it more pru-
dent to try his fortune abroad ; and therefore departing from
North Wales when it was in this unsettled condition, he
sailed with a small fleet of ships, which he had rigged and
manned for that purpose, to the westward; and leaving
Ireland on the north, he came at length to an unknown
country, where most things appeared to him new and un-
common, and the manner of the natives far different to what
he had seen in Europe. This country, says the learned H.
Lhuyd, must of necessity be some part of that vast tract of
ground of which the Spaniards, since Hanno's time, boast
themselves to be the first discoverers ; and which, by order
of cosmography, seems to be some part of Nova Hispania
or Florida ; whereby it is manifest that this country was
discovered by the Britons, long before either Columbus
or Americus Vesputius sailed thither: but concerning
Madawc's voyage to this country, and afterwards his return
from thence, there be many fabulous stories and idle tales
invented by the vulgar, who are sure never to diminish from
what they hear, but generally add to any fable as far as
their invention will prompt them. However, says the same
author, it is certain that Madawc arrived in this country,
and after he had viewed the fertility and pleasantness of it,
he thought it expedient to invite more of his countrymen
out of Britain ; and therefore leaving most of those he had
already taken with him behind, he returned for Wales.
Being arrived there, he informed his friends what a fair and
extensive land he had met with, void of any inhabitants,
whilst they employed all their skill to supplant one another,
only for a rugged portion of rocks and mountains; and
therefore he persuaded them to change their present state of
danger and continual bickering for a place where they should
have ease and enjoyment : and having thus got a consider-
able number of the Welsh together, he bade a final adieu to
his native country, and sailed with ten ships back to those
he had left behind. It is therefore to be supposed, says our
author, that Madawc and his people inhabited part of that
country, since called Florida, by reason that it appears from
Francis Loves, an author of no small reputation, that in
Acusanus and other places, the people honoured and wor-
shipped the cross ; whence it may be naturally concluded
that Christians had been there before the coming of the
Spaniards; and who these Christians might be, unless it
were this colony said to be planted by Madawc, cannot be
easily imagined : but by reason that the Welsh who went

over

HISTORY OF WALES. 179

over were few in number, they intermixed in a few years
with the natives of the country, and so following their man-
ners and using their language, they became at length un-
distinguishable from the barbarians. The country which
Madawc landed in, is, by the learned Dr. Powel, supposed
to be part of Mexico : for which conjecture he lays down
these following reasons : — first, because it is recorded in the
Spanish chronicles of the conquest of the West Indies, that
the inhabitants and natives of that country affirm by tradition
that their rulers descended from a strange nation, which
came thither from a strange country, as it was confessed by
King Montezuma, in a speech at his submission to the King
of Castile, before Hernando Cortez, the Spanish general :
and further because the British words and names of places
used in that country, even at this day, undoubtedly denote
the same ; for when they speak and converse together, they
use this British word Gwrando, which signifies to hearken
or listen ; and a certain bird with a white head, they call
Pengwyn, which signifies the same in Welsh : but for a
more complete confirmation of this, the island of Coorooso,
the cape of Bryton, the river of Gwyndor, and the white
rock of Pengwyn, which are all British words, do manifestly
shew that it was that country which Madawc and his people
inhabited.*

As soon as the troubles of North Wales were over, and

Prince
N 2

* An additional proof is, the purport of a Letter to Dr. Jones, of Hammersmith, from
his brother in America :— " In the year 1797, a Welsh tradesman on the river Monanga-
hala, near Petersburgh, went down to the Ohio, and from thence up the Mississipi
to within 60 miles of the Missouri, to a town called Mazores. In the month of April, as he
chanced to be out among some Indians, he overheard two conversing about some skins
they had to sell or exchange, and from a word or two conceived their language to be
Welsh ; he listened for a few minutes and became convinced, though much corrupted
from its primitive purity. Notwithstanding, he resolved to endeat'our to converse with
them, and, to his great astonishment, found themselves mutually understood, with the
exception of some words either original or obsolete in Wales. He describes them to be
of a robust stature, and dressed from head to foot in the skins of some animals, but no
kind of shirts; their complexion was of a copper colour similar to other Indians, with
strong black hair, but no beard except about the mouth. By them he understood they
came from a long way up the Missouri, and had been about, three months coming to the
place where he found them. In consequence of the proceeding, John Evans, a young man
M'ell acquainted with the language, has been in quest of the Welsh Indians, but without
success, not having penetrated more than 900 miles up the Missouri, being compelled to
return in consequence of a war among the natives. It is conjectured that our Cambro-
Indians inhabit a territory nearly 1800 or 2000 miles up that river. A second trial was
meditated, but before it was executed John Evans died, consequently no new discovery
has been attempted."

In the Gentleman's Magazine of October, 1828, published by Nichols and Son, 25,
Parliament Street, London, we find the following account:— "A tribe of Americans,
about the 40th degree of north latitude, and the 45th west longitude, are said to possess
many curious manuscripts about an island named Brydon, from which their ancestors
long since came. Their language resembles the Welsh, and their religion is a sort of
mixed Christianity and Druidism. They know the use of letters, and are very fond of

180 HISTORY OF WALES.

A.D. 1171. Prince David was securely settled in his throne, a storm fell
upon Powys : for Owen Cyfeilioc, the lord of the country,
had always, as much as in him lay, opposed the interest and
advantage of Rhys Prince of South Wales; upon which
account Prince Rhys came with a great army against Powys,
and having subdued Owen Cyfeilioc his enemy, he was yet
so favourable to him, that upon his delivering him pledges
for his future behaviour, he immediately departed out of
Powys, and returned with much honour to South Wales.
The states of Britain being now all at perfect rest and amity
with each other, the scene of action removed to Ireland ; for
Henry King of England having called together all his
nobility, consulted with them about the Irish expedition,
which had already been determined upon. To this con-
sultation there came some messengers from Richard Strong-
bow Earl of Strigule, Marshal of England, to deliver up to
the king's hands the city of Dublin, the town of Waterford,
with all such towns and castles as he got in right of his wife ;
whereupon the king restored to him all his lands both in
England and Normandy, and created him Lord Steward
of Ireland, for this Earl of Strigule had very lately,
without obtaining the king's permission, gone over to
Ireland, and had married the daughter of Dermott King of
Dublin ; at which King Henry was so indignant, that he
immediately seized upon all his lands in England and Nor-
mandy. Therefore the king having now some footing in
Ireland, the expedition was unanimously concurred in ; and
the king having commenced his journey, was, on coming
towards Wales, received by Prince Rhys, at whose sub-
mission the king was so much pleased, that he confirmed to
him all his lands in South Wales. In return for the king's
favour, Rhys promised to his majesty three hundred horses
and four thousand oxen towards the conquest of Ireland ;
for the sure payment of which he delivered fourteen pledges.
Then King Henry, marching forward, came to Caerlheon
upon Ubk, and entering the town, dispossessed the right
owner, lorwerth ap Owen ap Caradoc, and kept it for his
own use, placing a garrison of his own men therein : but
lorwerth was not so submissive as to endure tamely this
injustice of the king ; and therefore departing in great fury
from the king's presence, he called to him his two sons
Owen and Howel (whom he had by Angharad the daughter
of Uchtryd bishop of Llandaff), and his sister's son Morgan

ap

music and poetry. They still call themselves Brydones. It is generally believed that
they are descendants of some wandering Britons, expelled from home about the time of
the Saxons, and carried by wind and current to the great continent of the west, into the
heart of which they have been driven back by successive encroachments of modern
settler*."— P. 359.

HISTORY OF WALES. 181

ap Sitsylt ap Dyfnwal, and bringing together all the forces
they were able, upon the king's departure they entered the
country, and committing all kinds of waste and destruction
as they proceeded, they at last came before Caerlheon,
which town they took and despoiled in the like manner,
destroying whatever they could meet with ; so that nothing
escaped their fury, excepting the castle, which they could
not obtain. The king was in the mean time upon his journey
to Pembroke, where being accompanied by Prince Rhys, he
gave him a grant of all Cardigan, Ystratywy, Arustly, and
Elvil, in recompence of the civilities and honour that he
had done to him ; and so Rhys returned to Aberteifi, a town
he had lately won from the Earl of Gloucester, and there
having prepared his present, about the beginning of October
he returned again to Pembroke, having ordered eighty-six
horses to follow him ; which being presented to the king, he
accepted of thirty-six of the choicest, and returned the rest
with great thanks. The same day King Henry went to St.
David's, and after he had offered to the memory of that
saint, he dined with the bishop, who was the son of Gerald,
cousin-german to Rh$Ts ; and to this place Richard Strong-
bow Earl of Strygule came from Ireland to confer with the
king. Within a while after, King Henry being entertained
by Rhys at the White House, restored to him his son
Howel, who had been for a considerable time detained as a
pledge, and appointed him a certain day for payment of
tribute, at which time all the rest of the pledges should be
set at liberty.* The day following, being the next after the
feast of St. Luke, the king went on board, and the wind
blowing very favourably, set sail for Ireland, and being
safely arrived upon those coasts, he landed at Dublin;
where he rested for that whole winter, in order to make
greater preparations against the following campaign.

The change of the air and the nature of the climate, how-
ever, occasioned such a distemper and infection among the
soldiers, that to prevent the loss of his whole army, the king A. D. 11.72.
was forced to return with all speed to England ; and having
shipped off all his army and effects, he loosed anchor, and
landed in Wales in the Passion-week next year, and coming
to Pembroke, he staid there on Easter-day, and then pro-
ceeded upon his journey towards England. Rhys, Tiearing
of the king's return, was very solicitous to pay him his
devotion, and to be one of the first who should welcome him
over; and, meeting with him at Talacharn,* he performed all

the
* Welsh Chron. pp. 230, 231. f Talacharn, or Tal y earn,

182 HISTORY OF WALES.

the ceremonies of duty and allegiance.* Then the king
passed on, and as he came from Caerdyf, by the new castle
upon Usk, meaning to leave Wales in a peaceable condition,
he sent for lorwerth ap Owen ap Caradoc, who was the
only person in open enmity against him (and that upon very
just ground), requiring him to come and treat about a
peace, and assuring him of a safe conduct for himself, his
sons, and all the rest of his associates. lorwerth was
willing to accept of the proposal, and thereupon set forward
to meet the king, having sent an express to his son Owen, a
valourous young gentleman, to meet him by the way. Owen,
according to his father's orders, set forward on his journey,
with a small retinue, without any kind of arms or weapons of
war, as thinking it needless to burden himself with such
carriage, when the king had promised him a safe conduct :
but he did not find it so safe ; for as he passed the new
castle upon Uske,f the Earl of Bristol's men, who were
garrisoned therein, laid in wait for him as he came along,
and setting upon him in a cowardly manner, they slew him
with most of his company. Some few, however, escaped to
acquaint his father Torwerth of this treacherous action, who
hearing that his son was so basely murdered, contrary to the
king's absolute promise of a safe passage, without any farther
consultation about the matter, presently returned home with
Howel his son, and all his friends, and would not put trust
or confidence in any thing that the King of England or any
of his subjects promised to do : but, on the contrary, to
avenge the death of his son, who was so cowardly cut off, he
immediately raised all the forces that himself and the rest of
his friends were able to do, and entering into England, he
destroyed with fire and sword all the country, to the gates of
Hereford and Gloucester. { The king was so intent upon
his journey, that he seemed to take no great notice of wrhat
lorwerth was doing ; and, therefore, having by commission
constituted Lord Rhys Chief Justice of all South Wales, he
forthwith took his journey to Normandy. § About this time
died Cadwalader ap Gruffydh, the son of GrufFydh ap
Conan, sometime Prince of North Wales, who by his wife
Alice, the daughter of Richard Clare Earl of Gloucester,
had issue, Cunetha, Radulph, and Richard ; and by other
women, Cadfan, Cadwalader, Eineon, Meredith Goch, and
Cadwalhon. Towards the end of this year Sitsylht ap
Dyfnwal, and lefan ap Sitsylht ap Riryd, surprised the

castle

* WelshChron.p.232.
f The present Newport, in Monmouthshire.

J Welsh Chron. p. 232.
§ British Antiquities Revived, by Vaughan of Hengwrt, p. 23.

HISTORY OF WALES. 183

castle of Abergavenny, which belonged to the King of Eng-
land, and having made themselves masters of it, they took
the whole garrison prisoners.*

The following year, there happened a very great quarrel A. D. 1173.
betwixt King Henry and his son of the same name ; this
latter being upholden by the queen (his mother), his
brothers Geoffrey and Richard, the French King, the Earl
of Flanders, together with the Ear. of Chester, William
Patrick, and several other valiant knights and gentlemen :
but the old king having a stout and faithful army, consisting
of Almanes and Brabanters, was not in the least dismayed at
such a seeming storm ; and what made him more bold and
adventurous, he was joined by a strong party of Welshmen,
which Lord Rhys had sent him, under the command of his
son Howel. King Henry overthrew his enemies in divers
encounters, and having either killed or taken prisoners most
of those that had risen up against him, he easily dissipated
the cloud which at first seemed so black and threatening,
lorwerth ap Owen was not sorry to see the English falling
into dissentions among themselves; and, therefore, taking
advantage of such a seasonable opportunity, he drew his
army against Caerlheon, which held out very obstinately
against him. After many warm encounters lorwerth at
length prevailed, and entering the town by force, he took
most of the inhabitants prisoners ; and then laying siege to
the castle, it was surrendered in exchange for the prisoners
he had taken in the town. Howel his son at the same time
was busy in Gwent-is-Coed ; f and having reduced all that
country, excepting the castle, to subjection, he took pledges
of the inhabitants to be true and faithful to him, and to
withdraw their allegiance from the King of England. At
the same time, something of importance passed in North
Wales ; for David ap Owen Gwynedh, Prince of North
Wales, bringing an army over the river Menai into Angle-
sey, against his brother Maelgon, who kept that island from
him, he forced the latter to make his escape to Ireland ; oil
his return from whence, the following year, he was acci-
dentally discovered and seized, and then by his brother's
orders committed to close prison. Prince David having
brought the isle of Anglesey to its former state of sub-
jection to him, determined to remove all obstacles that
appeared likely to endanger its falling off from him; and
these he judged to be his own nearest relations, and there-
fore he expelled and banished all his brethren and cousins 1174.
out of his territories of North Wales: but before this

sentence

* Welsh Chron. p. 234. f Tn Monmouthshire.

184 HISTORY OF WALES.

sentence was put in execution, his brother Conan died, and
so escaped the ignominy of being banished his native country
for no other reason but the jealousy of an ambitious brother.
About the same time, Howel the son of lorwerth ap
Owen of Caerlheon, took prisoner his uncle O\\enPencarn,
who was right heir of Caerlheon and Gwent; and thus
having secured him, in order to prevent his getting any
children to inherit those places which himself was next heir
to, he first directed his eyes to be pulled out, and then that
he should be castrated : but vengeance did not permit such
a base action to go unpunished ; for upon the Saturday
following, a great army of Normans and Englishmen came
unexpectedly before the town, and took both it and the
castle, notwithstanding all the opposition which Howel and
his father lorwerth made ; though this last was not privy to
his son's cruel action. About the same time King Henry
came over to England, and a little after his arrival, William
King of Scots, and Roger de Moubray, were taken prisoners
at Alnewike by the Barons of the north, as they came to
destroy the northern part of the country in the name of the
young King. But old King Henry having committed them
to the safe custody of the Earl of Leicester, and pardoned
Hugh By god Earl of Chester, who had submitted to him,
he returned to Normandy with a very considerable army
of Welshmen, which David Prince of North Wales had sent
him i in return for which, he gave him his sister Emma in
marriage.* When he was arrived in Normandy, he sent a
detachment of the Welsh to cut off some provisions that
were on their way to the enemy's camp ; but in the mean
time the French King came to a treaty of peace, which was
shortly afterwards concluded upon ; so that all the brethren
who had during this time maintained such an unnatural
rebellion against their father, were forced to ask the old
king's forgiveness and pardon for all their former mis-
demeanours. David Prince of North Wales began to grow
very bold and assuming, in consequence of his new alliance
with the King of England ; and nothing would serve him,
but he must put his brother Roderic in prison, and secure
him with fetters, for no other reason than because he
demanded his share of his father's lands. It was the custom
of Wales, as is before stated, to make an equal division of
the father's inheritance between all the children; and,
therefore, David had no colour of reason or pretence to
deal so severely with his brother, unless it were to verify the
proverb — Might overcomes right. Though Prince David

could
* By this princess David had a son named Owen.— See Hist, of Gwedir Family, p, 12.

HISTORY OF WALES. 185

could depend much upon his affinity with the King of Eng-
land ; yet Rhys Prince of South Wales gained his favour
and countenance still more, because he let slip no oppor-
tunity to further the king's interest and affairs in Wales, and
by that means was a very necessary and useful instrument in
keeping under the Welsh, and in promoting the surer settle-
ment of the English in the country — not that he bore any
affection to either King Henry or his subjects, but because
he was sufficiently rewarded for former services, and was
still in expectation of receiving more favours at the king's
hands ; and he was resolved to play the politician so far, as
to have more regard to his own interest than to the good of
his native country. What ingratiated him with King Henry
most of all was this : upon the feast of St. James he brought
all such lords of South Wales as were at enmity with the
king, to do him homage at Gloucester ; namely, Cadwalhon
ap Madawc of Melyenyth, his cousin-german ; Eineon Clyt
of Elvel, and Eineon ap Rhys of Gwerthrynion, his sons-in-
law ; Morgan ap Caradoc ap lestyn of Glamorgan ; GrufFydh
ap Ifor ap Meiric of Sengennyth, and Sitsylht ap Dyfnwal of
Higher Gwent, all three his brothers-in-law (having married
his sisters); together with lorwerth ap Owen of Caerlheon.
King Henry was so much pleased with this act of Rhys,
that notwithstanding these persons had been his implacable
enemies, he readily granted them their pardon, and received
them to favour ; and restored to lorwerth ap Owen the town
and castle of Caerlheon, which he had unjustly taken from
him.

This reconciliation betwixt King Henry and these Welsh A.D. 1175.
lords some of the English in Wales took advantage of, and
more particularly William de Bruce Lord of Brecknock,
who for a long time had had a great desire to obtain Gwent-
land, but could not bring about his design, because Sitsylht
ap Dyfnwal, the person of greatest sway and power in the
country, was an inveterate enemy to all the English : but he
being now reconciled to the King, William de Bruce, under
pretence of congratulating him on this new peace and
agreement between the English and Welsh, invited Sitsylht
and Geoffry his* son, with several others of the persons of
chief note in Gwentland, to a feast in his castle of Aberga-
venriy, which by composition he had lately received from
them. Sitsylht, with the rest, came according to appoint-
ment, and without the least suspicion of any treasonable
design : but after they had been civilly entertained for some
time, William de Bruce, to move a quarrel against them,
began at last to propound certain articles to them, to be by

them

186 t HISTORY OF WALES.

them kept and performed ; and among other unreasonable
conditions, they were to swear that none of them should
at any time carry with them bow or sword. The Welsh
refusing to consent to and sign such improper articles as
these, William de Bruce presently called out his men, who
were ready for that purpose, and bidding them fall to their
business, they most treacherously fell upon and slew the
innocent and unarmed Welsh :* and as if this act did not
sufficiently express Bruce's cruelty and inhumanity, his men
immediately went to Sitsylht's house, which stood not far
from Abergavenny, and taking hold of Gwladus his wife,
they slew her son Cadwalader before her face, and then
setting fire to the house, they took her away to the castle. f
This execrable murder being thus most barbarously and
(which was worst of all) under pretence of kindness com-
mitted, William de Bruce, to cloak his treason with some
reasonable excuse, and to make the world believe it was not
for any private interest or expectation he had done such an
act as he knew would be by all men abhorred, Caused it to
be reported that he had done it in revenge of the death of
his uncle Henry of Hereford, whom the Welsh on the
Easter-Even before had slain. Whilst these things passed
in South Wales, Roderic, brother to David Prince of North
Wales, made his escape out of prison, and fleeing to Angle-
sey, he was received and acknowledged by all the country
on that side the river Conway for their lord and prince ;
which they were the more willing to do because they had
conceived an utter abhorrence of Prince David, who, con-
trary to all rules of equity, and almost nature, had disinhe-
rited the whole of his brethren and cousins, relying upon his
affinity and relation to the king of England. David, per-
ceiving the storm to grow very violent, and that the inhabit-
ants of the country flocked in numbers and adhered to his
brother Cadwalader, thought it best to wait awhile till the
storm was abated, and so retired over the river Conway. §
Towards the end of this year, Cadelh, the son of Gruffydh
ap Rhys and brother to Lord Rhys, after a tedious fit of
sickness, having taken upon him the Monkish order, de-
parted this life, and his body was very honourably interred
at Stratflur.

A. D. 1176. In the spring of the following year died also David
Fitz-Gerald, Bishop of Menevia or St. David, whose see
was supplied by one Piers, being nominated thereunto by
the king of England : but what happened most remarkable

this

* Matthew Paris, p. 110. f Welsh Chron. pp. 236, 237.

§ Welsh Chron. pp. 236, 237.

HISTORY OF WALES. 187

this year was, that the Lord Rhys, Prince of South Wales,
made a very great feast at Christmas in his castle of Aber-
teifi, which he caused to be proclaimed through all Britain,
Ireland, and the islands adjacent, a considerable time before;
and according to their invitation, many hundreds of English,
Normans, and others coming to Aberteifi, were very honour-
ably received and courteously entertained by Prince Rhys.
Among other tokens of their welcome and entertainment,
Rhys caused all the bards or poets throughout Wales to
come thither ; and for a better diversion to the company, he
provided chairs to be set in the hall, in which the bards
being seated, they were to answer each other in rhyme, and
those that acquitted themselves most handsomely and out-
vied the rest were promised great rewards and rich presents.
In this poetical competition, the North Wales bards ob-
tained the victory, with the applause and approbation of the
whole company; and among the professors of musick, be-
tween whom there was no small strife, Prince Rhys's own A.D. 1177.
servants were accounted the most expert. Notwithstanding
this civil and obliging treatment of Prince Rhys, the Nor-
mans upon the marches resorted to their accustomed manner
of treacherously way-laying and privately assaulting the
harmless and undesigning Welsh; and in consequence,
Eineon Clyt, son-in-law of Rhys, and Morgan ap Meredith,
falling into the net which the Normans had deceitfully laid
for them, were treacherously murdered : therefore, to keep
the Normans under greater awe for the future, Prince Rhys
built a castle at Rhayadr Gwy, being a place where the
river Wye falls with much noise and precipitation down a
great rock. This castle promised to be required to stand 1179.
him in a double stead; for soon after he had finished it, the
sons of Conan ap Owen Gwynedh made war against him,
but finding upon trial that their design against Rhys was
impracticable, they thought it most advisable to retire back
to North Wales.

The next year, Cadwalader, brother to Owen Gwynedh, 1179.
and uncle to David and Roderic, who for fear of his brother
had some time ago fled for refuge to the king of England, as
he was being conveyed home by some of the king's servants,
to enjoy his patrimonial estates in Wales, was by those
barbarous and treacherous villains murdered on his journey.*
This year the sepulchre of the famous and noble British
King Arthur, with his wife Gwenhofar (by the means of

some

* All the persons concerned in the murder were condemned to the gibbet. — Matthew
Paris, p. 116, says it was Cadwalhon that was murdered ; but he was slain before the
death of his father. —See Memoirs of Gwedir Family, p. 1. Welsh Chron. p. 238.

188 HISTORY OF WALES.

some Welsh bard whom King Henry had heard at Pem-
broke relate in a song the worthy and mighty acts of that
great prince and the place where he was buried), was found
in the isle of Afalon, without the Abbey of Glastonbury,
their bodies being laid in a hollow elder tree, buried 15 feet
in the earth. The bones of King Arthur were of marvel-
lous and almost incredible size, and there were ten wounds
in the skull, whereof one being considerably larger than the
rest seemed to have been his death-blow ; and the Queen's
hair appeared to the sight to be fair and yellow, but when
touched, crumbled immediately to dust. Over the bones
was laid a stone, with a cross of lead, upon the lower side of
which stone were engraven these words :

HIC JACET SEPULTUS JNCLYTUS REX ARTHURUS IN INSULA
AVALONIA.

Here lies buried the famous King Arthur in the isle
of Afalon.

No action of moment had passed in Wales for a consider-
able time, and the Welsh were in perfect amity and concord
with the king of England ; but an unlucky accident fell qut
at length to dissolve this happy agreement. One Ranulph
A.D. H82.de Poer, who was sheriff of Gloucestershire, or rather (as
Giraldus Cambrensis observes) of Herefordshire, being a
cruel and unreasonable oppressor of the Welsh, put the
Lord of Gwentland to death ; in revenge of whom a certain
young person of that country set upon Ranulph with several
other gentlemen his companions, and slew them to a man.*
King Henry was so much enraged on hearing of it, that he
immediately raised and assembled all his power, and came
to Worcester, intending to march forward to Wales and
invade the country : but Lord Rhys ap Gruffydh, a subtle
and politic prince, thinking it impossible to withstand the
English army, and fearing the king's power and determina-
tion, which he perceived to be so implacably bent against
the Welsh, went in person to Worcester, and swearing
fealty to the king, became his perpetual liege-man; and for
the due performance of this contract, he promised to send
his sons and nephews for pledges. f When, however, he
would have persuaded them to answer his request, the
young men considering with themselves that former pledges
had not been very well treated by the English, refused to
go,J and so the whole matter rested for that time : what

became

* Giraldus Cambrensis Itin. lib. i. c. 6.— Roger Hovedon, p. 617.
t Holinshead, p. 108.— Benedict. Abbas, vol. ii. p. 411.— Welsh Chron. p. 240.

Ibid.

HISTORY OF WALES. 189

became of the affair afterwards we know not; but it is
probable that King Henry returned to England satisfied
with Rhys's submission, for we hear no more of his expedi-
tion to Wales; and so the country remained undisturbed
for a long time, till at length the Welsh began to fall to
their wonted method of destroying one another. Cadwala- A-D-
der, son of Prince Rhys, was privately murdered in West
Wales, and buried in the Ty Gwyn. The year following, ii87.
Owen Fychan, the son of Madawc ap Meredith, was slain
by night in the castle of Carreghova, near Oswestry, by
Gwenwynwyn and Cadwalhon, the sons of Owen Cyfeilioc :
but what was most unnatural of all, Lhewelyn (whose father,
Cadwalhon ap Gruffydh ap Conan, was lately mnrdered by
the Englishmen) was taken by his own brothers, who bar-
barously put out his eyes. About the same time, Baldwyn,
Archbishop of Canterbury, attended by Giraldus Cam-
brensis, took a progress into Wales, being the first Arch-
bishop of Canterbury which visited that country; whose
authority the clergy of Wales in vain opposed, though they
obstinately alleged the liberties and privilejges of their metro-
politan church of St. David. In this visitation, described
by Giraldus in his Itinerarium Cambria?, he persuaded
many of the nobility of Wales to go to the Holy Land,
against those enemies of Christianity the Saracens, to whose 1188.
power Jerusalem itself was now in great danger of becoming
subject. The Archbishop having left the country, Maelgon,
the son of Lord Rhys, brought all his forces against Ten-
by, and making himself master of it, he burnt the whole
town to the ground, and carried away considerable spoil.
Maelgon was a person of such civil behaviour and easy
access, of so comely personage, and of such honesty in all
his actions, that lie attracted the most earnest love and
affection of all his friends ; by which means he became very
terrible and formidable to his enemies, especially the
Flemings, over whom he obtained several victories.

The next year, being the year of Christ 1189, Henry the 1189.
Second, surnamed Courtmantle, King of England, died,
and was buried at Fonteverard; after whom, his son
Richard, called Coeur de Lion, was by the unanimous con-
sent of all the nobility of England crowned in his place.
Prince Rhys being thus deprived of his greatest friend,
thought it most wise to make the best provision he could
for himself, by enlarging his dominions, and extending the
bounds of his present territories; and therefore, having
raised all the strength he could, he took the castles of
Seynclere, Abercorran, and Lhanstephan; and having taken

and

190 HISTORY OF WALES.

and committed to prison Maelgon his son, who was the
greatest thorn in his side, and one that was most passion-
ately beloved by the men of South Wales, he brought the
A.D. 1190. whole country to his subjection. Then he built the castle
of Cydwely; but the joy of all this good fortune was taken
from him by the loss of his daughter Gwenlhian, a woman
of such incomparable beauty, and so far excelling in all
feminine qualifications, that she was accounted the fairest
and most accomplished lady in all the country. Soon after

1191. her died Gruffydh Maylor, Lord of Bromfield,* a man of
great prudence and experience, and one that excelled all the
nobility of his time in hospitality, and in all other acts of
generosity and liberality. His corpse was carried to
Meivod, and honourably interred there, being attended by
most of the persons of quality throughout the whole coun-
try. He had issue by his wife Angharad, daughter of
Owen Gwynedh Prince of North Wales, a son called
Madawc, who succeeded his father in that part of Powys,
called from him Powys Fadawc. Rhys, Prince of South
Wales, was growing very powerful, and had made himself
master of the greatest part of South Wales, excepting
Dynefawr, with some few other places which still held out.
Dynefawr, however, upon the first assault he made against
it, was delivered up to him : but as he increased in the
number of towns and castles, he had the misfortune to have
that of his children diminished ; for his daughter Gwenlhian
was lately deceased ; and now he had no sooner got Dyne-
fawr castle into his possession, than his son Owen died at
Strata Florida, otherwise called Ystratflur. King Richard
was gone to the Holy Land against the Saracens ; but on
his return to England, he obtained the kingdom of Cyprus,
and gave it to Guido King of Jerusalem, upon condition he
would resign his former title to him : during his stay in this
island, he married Berengaria the daughter of the King of
Navarre.

1192. Maelgon, son of Prince Rhys, had been now detained a
long time in the prison where his father had shut him up ;
but being at last utterly weary of his close confinement, he
found means to make his escape. His father Prince Rhys
was not so much troubled at Maelgon having escaped and
obtained his liberty, as at his being obliged to give over the
career of conquest which all this while he had gone so
furiously on with ; but laying siege to Lhanhayaderi castle
he took it without any great opposition, and brought all the

country

* He was.the son of Madoc ap Meredith, the son of Bleddyn ap Cynvyn, and was lord
of the two Bromfields and Mochnant-is-Rhaiadcr.

HISTORY OF WALES. 19!

country thereabout to bis subjection. What favoured him
more in his attempts against the English was this, King
Richard having signalized himself greatly against the
infidels, in his return home through Austria, was taken
prisoner by Duke Leopold, who presented him to the
Emperor Henry, who demanded 200,000 marks for his A. D. 1193.
ransom, laying to his charge, that he had spoiled and
plundered the island of Sicily in his voyage to the Holy
Land; and Rhys took the advantage of King Richard's
absence to subject South Wales ; so Roderic brother to
David Prince of North Wales, made use of the aid of
Gothrik, the King of Man, to get the principality of North
Wales to himself, and eject his brother; and, therefore,
entering into Anglesey, he quickly reduced the whole island
to his subjection ; but he did not enjoy it long, for before
the year was over, the sons of his brother Conan came with
an army against him, and forcing him, together with the
king of Man, to flee from the island, they took immediate
possession of it themselves. While these things were done
in North Wales, Maelgon, son of Prince Rhys of South
Wales, who lately escaped from prison, besieged Ystrad-
meyric castle, and after but little opposition got it into his
own hands upon Christmas night ; which encouraged him
to farther attempts. At the same time, his brother Howel
(surnamed Sais, or the Englishman, because he had served
for some time under the king of England), another son of
Prince Rhys, obtained by surprise the castle of Gwys, and
having secured Philip de Gwys the owner, with his wife
and two sons, he made them all prisoners of war. Then
the two brothers, Howel and Maelgon, joined their forces ;
but fearing that they had more castles than they were able
to defend, they deemed it expedient to rase Lhanhayaden
castle, which the Flemings having notice of, they gathered
all their power together, and coming to Lhanhayaden at the
day appointed, they unexpectedly set upon the Welsh, and
slew a great number of them. Notwithstanding this un-
happy occurrence, they persisted in their determination to
destroy the castle, and so coming to Lhanhayaden the
second time, they rased it to the ground without any
molestation. When Anarawd, another son of Prince Rhys,
saw how prosperously his brothers succeeded, he thought
to make himself as rich as they, and by a shorter and easier
method ; and therefore having, under a pretence of friend-
ship and regard, got his brothers Howel and Madawc in
private, being moved with ambition and covetousness to
enjoy their estates, he first made them prisoners and then

very

192 HISTORY OF WALES.

very unnaturally pulled out their eyes: but Maelgon
escaped this snare, and hearing what a foul action was com-
mitted, he promised his brother Anarawd the castle of
Ystradmeyric in exchange for the liberty and release of his
A. D. 1194- two brothers, which Anarawd granted. It is, however, no
wonder those brothers could be unnatural and cruel to one
another, when they could join together in rebellion against
their father ; for Prince Rhys having rebuilt the castle of
Rhayadr Gwy, was waylaid and taken prisoner by his own
sons, who were afraid that if their father had them once in
his power, he would severely revenge their cruel and unna-
tural deeds : but Howel proved more kind and dutiful than
the rest ; for though he was blind, he found a way to let
his father escape out of Maelgon 's prison, and so Prince
Rhys being set at liberty, he took and destroyed the castle
of Dynefawr, which belonged to his son Maelgon : yet
notwithstanding he succeeded in his attempt, he lost another
castle elsewhere ; for the sons of Cadwalhon ap Madawc of
Melyenydh being informed that Prince Rhys was detained
prisoner by his son Maelgon, they besieged Rhayadr Gwy
castle, which being surrendered to them they fortified for
their own use.

Whilst these unhappy differences and unnatural contests
betwixt Prince Rhys and his sons continued and raged in
South Wales, a new revolution of affairs happened in North
Wales. Prince David had enjoyed the sceptre of North
W7ales for above twenty-four years, and it might have been
supposed that so long a possession would have made him
so secure in his throne that it could not be very easy to pull
him down : but possession is not always the best defence,
as was proved in Prince David's case at this time; for
Lhewelyn, the son of lorwerth Drwyndwn, who was the
eldest son of Owen Gwynedh, Prince of North Wales,
being now arrived to years of maturity, and having sense
enough to understand that he had a just title and claim to
the principality of North Wales, of which his uncle David
had so unjustly deprived him, he thought it high time to
endeavour to recover what was lawfully his own, which
however he was well persuaded his uncle David would
never easily part with : and therefore, being well assured
that the justness of his title would never advance him to the
throne, unless he had an army at his heels to support his
claim, he called together all his friends and relations by his
mother's side, who was Marred the daughter of Madawc ap
Meredith, Prince of Powys, and having secured the aid of
his cousins, the sons of Conan ap Owen Gwynedh and

Rhodri

HISTORY OF WALES. 193

Rhoclri ap Owen, he came into North Wales, proclaiming
that, contrary to all justice, his uncle David had first dis-
inherited his father lorwerth, and then had kept the govern-
ment from him who was the right heir: and though his
father lorwerth had been incapable of taking upon him the
government by reason of some infirmity ; yet there was no
reason that his father's weakness should exclude and deprive
him of his inheritance ; and, therefore, being now sensible
of that right which in his youth he had not so well under-
stood, he laid claim to the principality, which was justly his
own. There was no great need of inspiration to understand
his claim, nor of much rhetorick to persuade the people to
own him for their prince, for their affection had been
alienated from David ever since he had dealt so unnaturally
with his brothers, whom, after he had deprived of their
estates, he banished out of the country ; and therefore before
Lhewelyn could have expected any sure footing, the whole
country of North Wales was at his devotion, excepting cnly
three castles, which David, by the help of the English, on
whom, by reason of his affinity with the late King Henry,
he much depended, kept to himself. David being thus
deprived of almost all that he formerly possessed, we shall
account him no more among the princes of North Wales,
but trace the history of the principality as restored to the
true heir Lhewelyn ap lorwerth.

LHEWELYN AP IORWERTH.

J..JHEWELYN ap lorwerth, the son of Owen Gwynedh, A. D. 1194.
liaving thus successfully established his just claim to the .51h of
dominion of North Wales, and being quietly settled in the Rlchard L*
government thereof, Roger Mortimer marched with a strong
body to Melyenith, and built the castle of Cymarori, whereby
he reduced that country to his subjection, and forced thence
the two sons of Cadwalhon ap Madawc that were governors
thereof. About this time Rhys and Meredith, two valiant*
but undutiful sons of Prince Rhys, having got together a
body of hot-headed, daring soldiers, came before Dynefawr,
and took the castle that was garrisoned by their father's
men : hence they proceeded to Cantref-bychan, where the

inhabitants
o

* Tn the first year of King Richard's reign, Rhys ap Gruffydd came into England as
far as Oxford, conducted by the Earl of Moreton j and because the king would not
personally meet the said Rhys ap Gruffydd, as his father had done, he fjll into a passion
and returned to his own country.— Brady's History of England.

194 HISTORY OF WALES.

inhabitants civilly received them, and surrendered the castle
to them. At this their father was justly incensed, and there-
fore to put a stop to their farther proceedings, he en-
deavoured by all means to take them, which not long after
happened ; for their adherents being touched with the sense
as well of their treason against, as of their allegiance due to
their lawful lord Prince Rhys, and being anxious to atone
for their past faults, and to procure his future favour, they
betrayed their rebellious leaders to their offended father,
who immediately committed them to safe custody.
A. D. 1196. I'he ensuing year Prince Rhys levied a great army, whose
first attempt was upon the town and castle of Caermarthen,
both which he took in a short time and destroyed, and then
returned with considerable booty. Soon afterwards he led the
same army to the marches, and invested the castle of Clun,
which was not so easily taken as the former ; for this cost
him a long siege, and many a fierce assault ; and therefore
to be avenged, when he took it he laid it in ashes ; thence
he proceeded to the castle of Radnor, which he likewise
captured ; but immediately after it cost him a bloody battle ;
for he was no sooner master of the castle, but Roger
Mortimer and Hugh de Say came with a numerous
and well -disciplined army, consisting of Normans and
English, to the relief of it. Whereupon Prince Rhys
thinking it not his best course to confine his men within the
walls, led them up into a campaign ground hard by, and
there, like a valiant prince, resolved to give his enemies
battle, though they had much the advantage of him ; for his
men were neither so well armed, nor so much accustomed to
battle as the others were; however, their courage made
amends for their arms, and their leader's prudence and con-
duct supplied the defects of their discipline ; for they chose
rather to die honourably in the defence of their country,
than shamefully to survive the loss of it ; and therefore they
attacked their enemies so valiantly, that they were not long
able to withstand their force, but quitted the field in great
disorder, leaving a great number of their men slain upon
the spot; and Prince Rhj's pursued them so closely, that
they were glad of the shelter of the night to protect them
from his fury. After this victory he besieged the castle of
Payne in Elfel, which he easily took, and kept in his own
hands, till William de Bruce, the owner thereof, came to
him, and humbly desired peace of him, which he granted
him, and withal delivered him up his castle again.* Not
long after, the archbishop of Canterbury (whom King

Richard

* Welsh Chron. pp. 247, 248.

HISTORY OF WALES. 195

Richard had substituted his lieutenant in England) marched
with a powerful army towards Wales> and besieged the
castle of Gwenwynwyn, at Pool;* but the garrison made
such a vigorous defence, that he lost a great many of his
men, and all his attempts proved ineffectual ; therefore he
sent for some pioneers, whom he ordered to undermine the
walls ; which when the besieged understood, they en-
deavoured to secure themselves on the most honourable
terms they couldj being unwilling to put themselves to the
hazard of a battle, because their enemies were thrice their
number ; therefore they proposed to surrender up the
castle, on condition they should carry off all their arms
along with them : which offer the archbishop accepted, and
so permitted the garrison to march out quietly. Then
fortifying the castle for the king's use, and putting a strong
garrison in it for its defence, he returned again to England.
Gwenwynwyn, however, was not so willing to part with his
castle, as not to attempt the recovery of it ; therefore as soon
as he understood that the archbishop was gone back, he
immediately besieged it, and shortly afterwards received it
on the same terms that his men had delivered it up, and he
then kept it for his own use.f

The following year there broke out a terrible plague, A. D. 1197.
which spread over all Britain and France, and carried off a
great number of the nobility, besides common people. This
year likewise died the valiant Rhys, Prince of South
Wales :J the only stay and defence of that part of the princi-
pality, for he it was that obtained for them their liberty, and
secured it to them. He often very readily exposed his own
life for the defence of theirs and their country ; generally he
obtained the victory over his enemies^ and at last either
brought them entirely under his subjection, or forced them
to quit their country. He was no less illustrious for his
virtuous endowments, than for his valour and extraction ; so
that it was with good reason that the British bards and
others wrote so honourably of him, and so much deplored
his death.

To this prince were born many sons and daughters,
whereof his eldest son Gruffydh succeeded him : the others
were Cadwalhon, Maelgon, 'Meredith, and Rhys. Of his

daughters,
o 2

* Powys Castle, near Welsh Pool. — Roger Hovedon, p. 775*

t Welsh Chron.p.248.

J He was interred in the Abbey of Strata Florida (Ystrad Flur), in the county of
Cardigan, which he himself had erected ; and which became the burial-place of the
succeeding lords of his family.— Manuscript of Edward Llwyd, in Sir John Seahright's
Collection. Brit. Ant. Rev. by Vaughan of Hengwrt, p. 19. Welsh Chron. pp. 247, 248.

196 HISTORY OF WALES.

daughters, one called Gwenlhian was married to Ednyfed
Fychan, ancestor to Owen Tudor that married Katharine
queen-dowager to King Henry the Fifth : and the rest were
very well matched with some of the nobility of the country.
Prince Gruffydh being settled in the government of his
country, did not long enjoy it peaceably; for his trouble-
some brother Maelgon thought it now a fit time to endeavour
the recovery of the inheritance his father had deprived him
of. To this purpose he made a league with Gwenwynwyn,
the son of Owen Cyfeilioc, Lord of Powys, and by their
joint interest they got together a considerable body of men,
wherewith they surprised Prince Gruffydh at Aberystwyth,
whom, after they had slain a great many of his men, they
took prisoner. Thus Maelgon effectually accomplished his
design in the recovery of the castle, and the whole country
of Cardigan. His unfortunate brother he committed to the
custody of his malicious confederate Gwenwynwyn, who
immediately delivered him up to his inveterate enemies the
English. After this, Gwenwynwyn, having assembled to-
gether an army, entered Arustly, and brought it to his
subjection.

David ap Owen, whom Prince Lhewelyn had forced to
quit his usurpation of the principality of North Wales, had
hitherto lived quietly and peaceably, not so much out of
kindness to his nephew, as because he knew not how to
avenge himself; but now having assembled a great army of
English and Welsh, he used his utmost efforts to recover
his principality. Whereupon Prince Lhewelyn, who was
the right heir, and in possession of it, proceeded boldly to
meet him, and gave him battle, wherein he completely
routed his army, and took his uncle David prisoner, whom
he delivered into safe custody, whereby he secured to him-
self and his country peace and quietness. Towards the
close of this year, Owen Cyfeilioc,* lord of the Higher Powys,
departed this life, and left his estate to Gwenwynwyn his
son ; after whom that part of Powys was called Powys-
Wenwynwyn, to distinguish it from the other called Powys-
Fadoc, the inheritance of the lords of Bromfield. About
this time Trahaern Fychan, a man of great power and
authority in the county of Brecknock, was suddenly seized
upon as he was going to Llancors to confer about some
business with William de Bruce lord thereof, and by an
order of that lord, he was tied to a horse's tail and dragged
through the streets of Brecknock to the gallows, where he
was beheaded, and his body hung up by the feet for three

days ;
* This prince was a bard of some eminence j a few poems of his are extant at this day.

HISTORY OF WALES. 197

days ;* which barbarous indignity, inflicted on him for no
known just cause, so much alarmed his brother's wife and
children, that they fled their country for fear of the same
usage. The year following Maelgon, who had before routed A. D. 1198.
the army of his brother Prince Gruffydh, and taken him
prisoner, began to enlarge his territories, and included
therein his brother's castles of Aberteifi and Ystratmeyric.
The youngest son of Prince Rhys about this time also
recovered the castle of Dynefawr from the Normans.

The same summer, Gwenwynwyn resolved upon en-
deavouring to extend Wales to its ancient limits ; and for this
purpose he raised a powerful army, with which he first
designed to be avenged of William de Bruce for the inhuman
death of his cousin Trahaern Fychan, and therefore he
besieged his castle of Payne in Elfel,f where he made a
protestation, that as soon as he had taken it, for a farther
satisfaction of his revenge, he would unmercifully ravage the
whole country as far as Seyern : but these mighty menaces
were soon dissipated ; for he had neither battering engines
nor pioneers, so that he was forced to lay before the castle
for three weeks without effecting any thing; whereby the
murderers had time enough to apply themselves to England
for succours, which they obtained : for upon information of
their situation, Geoffrey Fitz-Peter,J Lord Chief Justice of
England, levied a considerable army, to which he joined all
the Lords Marchers, and came in all haste to the relief of
the place, where he met Gwenwynwyn ; with whom, before
he would hazard a battle, he was desirous to have a treaty
of peace, to which Gwenwynwyn and his adherents would
not give any attention, but returned in answer to his mes-
sage, that their business there was to be revenged of in-
juries that had been done to them. Hereupon the English
lords resolved to set at liberty Prince GrufFydh of South
Wales, whom they knew to be an inveterate enemy of
Gwenwynwyn, because he it was that delivered him up to
their hands ; and they likewise knew that he was a man of
great authority in his country ; therefore they rightly con-
cluded he might be more serviceable to them when at
liberty than under confinement, and therein they were not
disappointed; for he immediately got together a strong
body of his countrymen, and joining with the English,

advanced

* Welsh Chron. pp. 250, 251. Humffrey Lhuyd's Breviary, p. 70.

•f- In Radnorshire.

J Fitz Peter was an eminent character; he was dreaded by John, who yet dared not
to remove him from his great office. When John heard of his death, he exultingly
cried, « And is he gone then? Well, let him go to hell, and join Archbishop Hubert!
By God's foot, I am now, for the first time, king of England,"'— Matthew Paris.

198 HISTORY OF WALES.

advanced towards the castle, where they furiously attacked
Gwenwynwyn, who made an equally vigorous defence ;
upon which there ensued a bloody battle, with a great
slaughter on both sides, but at length the English got the
victory, and Gwenwynwyn lost a great number of common
soldiers (if we believe Matthew Paris,* 3700 men) besides
a great many of his best commanders, among whom were
Anarawd son of Eineon, Owen ap Cadwalhon, Richard ap
lestyn, and Robert ap Howel. Meredith ap Conan was
likewise taken prisoner, with many more. After this the
English returned home triumphantly, and requited Prince
Gruflfydh's service by restoring him to complete freedom,
who immediately, partly by his own power, and partly by
the affection of his people, re-possessed himself of all his
dominions, save the castles of Aberteifi and Ystratmeyric,
which his usurping brother Maelgon, by the assistance of
Gwenwynwyn, had, during his confinement by the English,
taken from him, and still unjustly detained. Hereupon,
some of Prince Gruffydh's prime nobility and clergy came
to him, and offered their endeavours to reconcile him to his
brother, and made him so apprehensive of his just dis-
pleasure towards him, that he took a solemn oath before
them, that in case his brother would give him hostages for
the security of his own person, he would deliver him up his
castle of Aberteifi by a day appointed ; which proposals
Prince Gruffydh accepted, and accordingly sent him his
demands ; but it was either far from Maelgon's intention to
make good his offer, or else he was very inconstant in his
resolution ; for he had no sooner received the hostages than,
instead of delivering up the castle, he fortified it, and put in
it a garrison for his own use, and committed the hostages to
the custody of Gwenwynwyn, Prince Gruffydh's mortal
enemy; but not long after, their innoceney procured them
an opportunity of escape.

A. D. 1199. In the year 1199, Maelgon, still pursuing his hatred of
his brother Prince Gruffydh, assembled an army, wherewith
he besieged his castle of Dynerth, which he obtained in a
short time, and then put all the garrison to the sword.
About the same time Prince Gruffydh, on the other hand,
won the castle of Cilgerran, and strongly fortified it. This
year Richard the First of England, as he was besieging the
castle of Chalonsf in France, was shot from the walls with
an arrow, of which wound he soon after died, and left his

kingdom

* Matthew Paris, p. 162.— Holinshead, p. 154.— Welsh Chron. p. 252, speaks of the
defeat, but not of the number slain.

t An inconsiderable town in Limosin.

HISTORY OF WALES. 199

kingdom to his brother John, who was with great solemnity
crowned at Westminster : but he could not have expected
to enjoy this kingdom peaceably; for his elder brother
Geoffrey Plantagenet had left a son behind him named
Arthur, who had a right to the crown of England by lineal
descent ; which he therefore justly laid claim to, and by the
assistance of King Philip of France (who espoused his
quarrel) endeavoured to recover. Before, however, Prince
Arthur had made sufficient preparations to carry on his
design, he was unexpectedly attacked by his uncle, his army
routed, and he himself taken prisoner, and committed to
safe custody ; not long after which he died, and thus King
John was rid of his competitor.

The following year Gruffydh ap Conan ap Owen Gwynedh A. D. 1200.
died, and was buried in a monk's cowl in the abbey of
Conway, which way of burying was very much practised
(especially by persons of high rank) in those days ; for the
monks and friars had deluded the people into a strong
conceit of the merits of it, and had firmly persuaded them it
was highly conducive to their future happiness to be thus
interred. This superstition, together with the propagators
of it, they had lately received from England : for the first
abbey or monastery we read of in Wales, after the destruc-
tion of the famous house of Bangor, which savoured of the
Jlomish errors, was the Ty-Gwyn, built in the year 1146;
after which they much increased and spread over all the
country ; and now the fountain head began to be corrupted ;
for the clergy maintained a doctrine which the£r ancestors
abhorred, as may easily be gathered from the writings of
that worthy divine Ambrosius Telesinus, who flourished in
tlie year MO, when the Christian faith (which we suppose to
have been delivered at the isle of Afalori by Joseph of
Arimathea) flowed in this land in a pure and uncorrupted
stream, before it was infected and polluted by that proud
and blood-thirsty monk Augustine. Ambrosius Telesinus
then wrote and left behind him as his own opinion, and
the opinion of those days, these following verses : —

Gwae'r offeiriad byd

Nys angreifftia gwyd

Ac ny phregetha :

Gwae ny cheidw ei gail

Ac ef yn fugail

Ac nys areilia ;

Gwae ni cheidw ei dhefaid

Rhae bleidhie Rhufeniaid

A'i ftbn gnwppa.

i. e

200 HISTORY OF WALES.

i. e. Woe be to the bishop who does not rebuke vice, and
give good example ; and who does not preach. Woe be to
him, if he does not keep well his fold, and be a shepherd,
and does not keep together and guard his sheep from
Romish wolves with his pastoral staff.

From whence it is apparent, that the Church of Rome
was then corrupt, and that the British churches persevered
in the primitive and truly apostolical profession of
Christianity, as it was at first planted in the island ; and
that no Roman innovations had crept in among them, though
they afterwards much increased, when they were introduced
by Augustine the monk.

This year likewise we find the malicious and turbulent
Maelgon, choosing rather to persist in his rebellion, than to
return to his allegiance, and to prefer a small lucre to the
love and safety of his country : for now finding that the
castle of Aberteifi was not tenable by his own power and
force, yet rather than deliver it up to his brother Prince
Gruffydh, and thereby procure his favour, he chose to sell
it to his bitter enemies the English, for an inconsiderable
sum of money, whereby he opened them a free passage into
Wales ; this being considered one of its' chief defences and
bulwarks. About this time Madawc, son of Gruffydh
May lor Lord of Bromfield, built the abbey of Lanegwest,
commonly known to the English by the name of Vale
Crucis.

A. D. 1201. In the year 1201, the valiant Lhewelyn ap lorwerth
Prince of North Wales, banished out of his territories his
cousin Meredith, the son of Conan ap Owen Gwynedh,
whom he suspected of treasonable practices, and therefore
confiscated his lands, which were the Cantrefs of Lhyn and
Efyoneth.* About the same time Meredith, the son of
Prince Rhys, was slain at Carnwilhion by treason, where-
upon his elder brother Gruffydh possessed himself of his
castle in Lhanymdhyfri and all his lands. This Gruffydh
was a valiant and discreet prince, and one that appeared
likely to bring all South Wales to good order and
obedience ; for in all things he trod in his father's steps,
and made it his business to succeed him as well in his
Valour and virtuous endowments, as in his government : but
the vast hopes conceived of him soon proved abortive ; for

A.D. 1202. in the ensuing year, on St. James's day, he died, to the great
grief and loss of his country, and shortly after was buried at
Ystratflur with great pomp and solemnity. He left behind

him

* The Cantrevsof Llun and Evionjdd, situate in the South West parts of Caernar-
vonshire.—History of fiwcdir Family, p. 20.

HISTORY OF WALES. 201

him 'as a successor a son called Rhys, which Maud, the
daughter of William de Bruce, had borne to him. The
following year some of the Welsh nobility marched writh an
army towards the castle of Gwerthrynion, which belonged
to Roger Mortimer, and after a short siege, they took it and
levelled it with the ground.

This year Lhewelyn ap lorwerth, having considered his
estate and title, and that all the Welsh princes were obliged,
both by the laws of Rocleric the Great and those of Howel
Dha, to acknowledge the King or Prince of North Wales
for their sovereign lord, and to do homage to him for their
dominions : and that, notwithstanding they knew this to be
their duty, and that they formerly had readily performed it ;
yet, because of late years his predecessors had neglected to
call them to their duty, they now began to imagine them-
selves exempted from it, and some thought themselves
accountable to no superior prince, while others denied
subjection to Prince Lhewelyn, and held their dominions of
the King of England : therefore, to put a stop to the further
growth of this contempt, and to assert his own right, Prince
Lhewelyn commanded the attendance of all the Welsh
lords, who for the most part appeared and swore allegiance
to him :* butGwenwynwyn, Lord of Powys, neither came to
this meeting, nor would own the prince's supremacy ; which
stubbornness and disobedience the prince acquainted his
nobility with, whereupon they delivered their opinion, that
it was but reasonable that Gwenwynwyn should be com-
pelled to his duty, or forfeit his estate : this all the lords
consented to, excepting Elis ap Madawc, who was an
intimate friend of Gwenwynwyn, and therefore would not
consent to the enacting any thing that might be prejudicial
to him, but went away from the meeting much dissatisfied
with their proceedings. Notwithstanding which, Prince
Lhewelyn, pursuant to the advice of the rest of his nobility,
raised an army and marched towards Powys : but before he
made any use of his forces, he was, by the mediation of
some learned and able men, reconciled to Gwenwynwyn,
and so Gwenwynwyn became his dutiful subject, which he
confirmed both by oath and in writing : and indeed it was
not without good reason that Prince Lhewelyn used all the
caution imaginable to bind this man, for he had sworn
allegiance before to the King of England. Lhewelyn
having thus subjected Gwenwynwyn, he thought it now a
proper time to shew some marks of his resentment towards
his adherent Elis ap Madawc, and therefore he stripped him

of
* British Ant. Rev. by Vaughan of Hcngwrt.

202 HISTORY OF WALES.

of all his lands, whereupon Elis fled the country, but not
long after, yielding himself to the prince's mercy, he
received of him the castle of Crogen, and seven townships
besides.* And now having mentioned Crogen, it will not
be improper to step a little out of the way, and here take
notice of the reason why the P^nglish formerly, when they
had a mind to reproach the Welsh, called them Crogens.f
The first occasion of it was this, King Henry the Second in
his expedition against the Welsh to the mountains of
Berwyn, lay a while at Oswestry, during which time he
detached a number of his men to try the passages into
Wales, who, as they would have passed OfiVs dyke at the
castle of Crogen, at which place there was a narrow way
through the same, which dyke appears now very deep
through all that country, and bears its old name ; these
men, I say, as they would have passed this strait, were met
by a party of Welsh, and a great many of them slain and
buried in that ditch, as appears by their graves there to be
seen ; and the name of the strait imports as much, being
called in Welsh Adwifr bedhau :% the English therefore,
bearing in mind this slaughter, whenever they got any of the
Welsh into their power, upbraided them with the name of
Crogen, intimating thereby that they should expect no
more favour or mercy at their hands, than they showed to
the English engaged in that skirmish : but this word, which
at first was rather a badge of reputation than disgrace to the
Welsh, came afterwards to be used in a different sense, and
to be applied only when it was intended to reproach and
abuse them. To return, however, to Prince Lhewelyn,
whom we find returning home after he had successfully
asserted his sovereignty over all Wales, and set all things in
good order ; and who on his way fortified the castle of Bala
in Penlhyn. About this time Rhys, the son of Gruffydh ap
Rhys, the lawful Prince of South Wales, took the castle of
Lhanymdhyfry, upon Michaelmas- Day. This year Lhewe-
lyn Prince of Wales took to wife Joan, the daughter of
King John, which Agatha, daughter of Robert Ferrers
Earl of Derby, bore to him, and with whom King John
gave the Prince for a dowry the Lordship of Ellesmere, in
the marches of Wales.g

This

* Welsh Chron. pp. 257, 258.

•f- It has been erroneously said, that the term Crogens was used in contempt and
derision of the Welsh ; but that was not the truth ; the English meant to express by it
animosity, and the desire of revenge. — Royal Tribes.

J AdwJ'r Beddau, or the Pass of the Graves.

§ History of Gwedir Family, p. 22. says she was a legitimate daughter. Fabian, in
his reign of John, says that she was a natural one. — Welsh Chron. p. 259.

Prince Llywelyn in his youth had married Tangwystl, daughter of Llywarch Goch,

HISTORY OF WALES. 203

This year prince Rhys, who in the preceding year took A. D. 1203.
the castle of Lhanymdhyfri, won likewise the castle of
Llangadoc, and put a garrison therein, but he enjoyed
neither of them long; for shortly after, his uncle Maelgon,
with his friend Gwenwynwyn, levied a powerful army, and
with it besieged and took the castle of Lhanymdhyfri;
thence they removed to Llangadoc, and obtained that castle .
also, on condition that the garrison should depart without
molestation. When they had taken these two castles, they
went to Dinerth, where Maelgon finished the castle he had
formerly begun there. This year likewise Prince Lhewelyn
set at liberty his uncle David ap Owen Gwynedh, who made
but an ungrateful return to his kindness; for instead of
living peaceably at home, and enjoying that liberty that was
granted him, he fled to England, and there gathered
together an army, wherewith he attempted to restore
himself to his ancient estate of North Wales; but he failed
in his project, for his prudent nephew immediately met him
on his march, and gave him a complete overthrow,* at
which David was so much disheartened, that he returned to
England, and shortly after died of grief.f The next year 1204.
Howel, a blind son of Prince Rhys, was slain at Cemaes, by
some of the followers of his brother Maelgon, and was
buried near his brother Gruffydh, at Ystratflur: notwith-
standing Maelgon in those days usurped all the rule of
South Wales, yet Rhys and the other sons of his brother
Gruffydh, won from him the chief defence of all that
country, namely, the castles of Dynefawr and Lhanymdhyfri.
About this time William Marshal Earl of Pembroke, 1205.
besieged the castle of Cilgerran, and took it ; and not long
afterwards, Maelgon hired an Irishman to kill Cadifor ap
Griffri ; after which horrid act, Maelgon seized upon his
four sons and put them to death ; these were all promising
young gentlemen and descended from a noble stock, for
their mother Susanna, was a daughter of the above-men-
tioned Howel ap Rhys, by a daughter of Madawc ap
Meredith Prince of Powys. In the year 1206, Maelgon 1206.
built a castle at Abereneon ; and in the same year there was
such an abundance of fish seen at Aberystwith, that the
like was never before known in the memory of man.

This

the Lord of Rhos : by whom he had a son, very brave, called Gruffydh ap Llywelyn.
He married during his father's life Sina daughter of Caradoc ap Thomas ap Roderic ap
Owen Gwynedh.— History of Gwedir Family, p. 24. — British Ant. Rev. by Vaughan of
Hengwrt, p. 29.

* Welsh Chron. p. 259.

t History of Gwedir Family, p. 13, says "Some time after, that unfortunate prince
with his son Owen were slain at Conway."

204 HISTORY OF WALES.

A. D. 1207. This year the King of England banished the realm
William de Bruce and his wife, on account of an antipathy
that he had conceived against his son, and then seized upon
all his lands : whereupon, William with his wife and son
fled to Ireland, and there continued for some time ; and the
hardship he now underwent was the less pitied, because he
exercised the great power he had possessed in the marches
of Wales with extreme cruelty and injustice. The same
year Gwenwynwyn came to Shrewsbury to confer with the
king's counsel, where he was detained prisoner:* where-
upon Prince Lhewelyn invaded his country, and took all his
towns and castles, and garrisoned them for his own use.
This expedition of Prince Lhewelyn much alarmed the
usurping Maelgon, and the more so, because he had in-
telligence that Lhewelyn was on his march towards South
Wales, therefore he now put himself in the best posture he
could to receive him, but finding himself not able to with-
stand his forces, he demolished the castles of Aberystwith,
Ystratmeyric, and Dinerth, which he had previously
fortified ; notwithstanding which, the Prince came to
Aberystwith, and rebuilt the castle and put a garrison
therein ; after this he seized upon the Cantref of Penwedic
and the land betwixt Dyfi and Aeron, which he gave to
Maelgon's nephews, the sons of Gruflfydh ap Rh$rs, and then
returned home with great joy and triumph. f Not long
afterwards, Rhys Fychan, son to Prince Rhys, besieged the
castle of Lhangadoc, and took it, contrary to the promise
and league he had made with his nephews, forgetting like-
wise how freely and readily they had assisted him in his
necessity ; therefore, to be avenged of this ingratitude and
breach of promise, Rhys and Owen no sooner heard of it,
than they furiously attacked the castle, and took it by
assault, and put to the sword, or took prisoners all the
garrison, and then burnt the castle to the ground.
1209. This year King John levied a powerful army, with which
he embarked for Ireland ; but as he was on the borders of
Wales on his journey thitherwards, there was a criminal
brought before him who had murdered a priest ; the officer
desired to know the king's pleasure as to the manner in
which he would have the delinquent punished; but the
king, instead of ordering any punishment to be inflicted
upon him suitable to the heinousness of his crime, discharged
him with a Well done, thou good servant, thou hast slain
mine enemy; for such he reckoned the clergy of those days,
who were very ill-affected to his usurped, arbitrary govern-
ment,

* Welsh Chron. p. 260. t Welsh Chron. p. 261.

HISTORY OF WALES. 205

ment, and therefore he slightly regarded any injuries that
were done them ; for, on the contrary, he thought they did
him good service that did them wrong. He had not been
long in Ireland, before he got into his power the unfortunate
William de Bruce the younger, and his mother Mawd de
Saint Valerike, whom we have mentioned before to have
quitted England for fear of him, and to have fled here for
shelter. On his return to England he brought these in
triumph along with him, and committed them to Windsor
castle, where, by his orders, they were soon afterwards
inhumanly famished.

According to Matthew Paris, the reason of King John's
displeasure against William de Bruce Lord of Brecknock
was this : — When the Pope had excommunicated the realm
of England, the king, to prevent any inconveniences that
might ensue thereupon, took pledges of such of his nobles
as he thought were disaffected to him, and would be likely,
if occasion offered, to countenance and promote a rebellion.
Amongst others, he sent messengers to William de Bruce to
demand his sons for pledges, to whom Mawd, de Bruce's
wife, being the readier speaker, answered, (though what she
said was no less her husband's sentiment than her own,) that
the king, who had proved so base a guardian to his nephew
Prince Arthur, whom instead of setting in, he deprived of
his right, should have none of her children. This answer
the messengers delivered to the king, whereat he was so
highly displeased, that he ordered some soldiers should be
sent to seize this lord ; but he having timely intelligence of
this order, fled into Ireland with his wife and children,
where now his wife Mawd, with her son, were unfortunately
taken by King John, but he himself escaped, and fled into
France, where he died soon afterwards.

This year the Earl of Chester rebuilt the castle of A. D. 1210.
Dyganwy, situate on the sea-shore and east of the river
Conway, which Prince Lhewelyn had demolished. He
likewise fortified the castle of Treffynon or St. Winifred.
Upon this Lhewelyn entered into the EarPs land, which
when he had ravaged as much as he deemed sufficient, he
returned home with considerable booty.* About this time,
Rhys Fychan, son to Prince Rhys, fearing lest Prince
Lhewelyn should fall upon him for the wrong he had done
to his nephews, whom he, Prince Lhewelyn, warmly, de-
fended in their right, made an application to the king of
England, who readily granted him what assistance he
desired; and with this aid he besieged the castle of Lhan-

ymdhyfri.
* Welsh Chron. p. 262.

20G HISTORY OF WALES.

ymdhyfri. The garrison for some time made a vigorous
defence ; but having no hopes of any relief, they thought it
their most prudent course to capitulate, and therefore they
desired that they might march out with their arms and
baggage, and all that belonged to them, which was granted
them. About this time Gwenwynwyn was set at liberty,
whom the king had hitherto detained prisoner, and the king
also lent him some forces to attempt the recovery of his
country, which Prince Lhewelyn had seized upon during
his imprisonment ; and though by hi» own strength he was
not able to cope with the Prince, yet by this assistance
granted him by the king, he soon re-possessed himself of
his dominions. This success of Gwenwynwyn encouraged
Maelgon likewise to endeavour the recovery of that part of
his country which the Prince had taken from him in the
same expedition ; and he made an application to the king
of England, and swore allegiance to him. Hereupon the
king granted him a considerable army, as well English as
Normans ; to these he joined what forces he could raise in
Wales; and then, contrary to the oath and agreement he
had made with his nephews Rhys and Owen, he in a
hostile manner entered their country. When he was come
to Cantred Penwedic, he encamped at Cilcenny, where he
staid some time to take measures for the better accomplish-
ment of his designs : by this time his nephews had got
together about 300 chosen well-disciplined men, but with
so small a number they durst not oppose their uncle's
numerous army in open field; therefore they endeavoured
to overthrow those by a stratagem which they could not do
by main force ; and herein they proved very successful, for
coming as near their enemies as they could without being
discovered, they sent out their spies that night for intelli-
gence, who brought back the welcome news that all was
quiet in Maelgon's camp, and that they kept no strict
watch, being not aware of an approaching enemy. This
intelligence much encouraged the brothers to prosecute
their design, and they marched as silently as they could
towards their enemies' camp, where they met with no oppo-
sition, being undiscovered, because all were fast asleep.
When they were advanced as they thought as far as
Maelgon's tent, they furiously attacked and slew a great
number of his men before they awoke; the rest being
alarmed with the noise and shouts of their enemies, and
withal thinking their number to be far greater than it was,
were glad to make use of the darkness of the night to quit
the field, excepting Maelgon's guard only, who valiantly

kept

HISTORY OF WALES. 207

kept their post and defended their lord till he had time and
opportunity to escape. Maelgon's army suffered very much
in this action ; his nephew Conan ap Howel with his chief
counsellor Gruffydh ap Cadwgan were both taken prison-
ers; and Eineon ap Caradoc with a great number more
were slain upon the spot. About the same time, Gilbert
Earl of Gloucester fortified the castle of Buelht, where a
little before he had lost a considerable number of his men,
in consequence of the place not being strong and tenable.
Towards the conclusion of this year, Mallt or Mawd de
Bruce, the wife of Gruffydh ap Rhys, departed this life,
and was interred by her husband in a monk's cowl in
Ystratflur.*

The following year, North Wales was threatened by a A. D. 1211.
great storm, in consequence of the Marchers having made
frequent and grievous complaints to King John that Prince
Lhewelyn perpetually molested their country, slew their
men, and committed all the waste and destiuction possible
as he passed along. The king, hearing of such intolerable
depredations continually exercised by the men of North
Wales, deemed it high time to redress the wrongs of his
subjects, and therefore he raised a mighty army throughout
England, and called to him all such lords and princes of
Wales as held their lands under patents from him, as Howel
ap Gruffydh ap Conan ap Owen Gwynedh, whom Prince
Lhewelyn had banished out of North Wales; Madoc ap
Gruffydh Maylor, Lord of Bromfield, Chirk, and Yale;
Meredith ap Rotpert, Lord of Cydewen; Gwenwynwyn,
Lord of Powys; Maelgon and Rhys, the sons of Prince
Rhys, and governors of South Wales.f With this formida-
ble army he came to Chester, intending to enter North
Wales by that way, and being fully resolved to execute the
severest vengeance upon the inhabitants, and not to let one
person remain alive throughout the whole country: but
resolutions of this nature are much easier made than accom-
plished; accordingly, Prince Lhewelyn was no sooner in-
formed of these mighty preparations against him, and which
comprehended the whole strength of the English nation,
and, what was worst of all, which was assisted by his own
countrymen, than he issued forth his orders, commanding
all his subjects of the inland counties of Denbigh and Flint,
together with those of the island of Anglesey, to remove for
a time all their cattle and other effects to the mountains of
Snowdon, where they were sure to remain most secure from
their enemies: but King John marched his army along the

sea-coast
* Welsh Chron. p. 264. f IWd.

208 HISTORY OF WALES.

sea-coast to Ruthlan,* and there passing the river Clwyd,
he came to the castle of Deganwy,f where he encamped for
some time to refresh and recruit his army, which, by reason
of the long marches they had made, \vas greatly fatigued;
but what the more augmented their misery, Lhewelyn
getting behind them cut off' all their hopes of provision
from England, and the Welsh, possessing the advantage of
being acquainted with the straits and narrow passages, cut
off all that straggled from the English camp, so that in time
they were glad to take up with horse-flesh, and any thins;
else were it never so mean which they could by possibility
use as food. At last King John, finding no other remedy,
and perceiving it impossible to continue longer there with-
out a supply of provisions, thought it his best way to march
for England^ and leave the Welsh to themselves, and so he
decamped in a great fury, leaving Lhewelyn to bury that
great number of dead which had perished by hunger in this
unsuccessful expedition : however, to recover the honour
he had now lost, he was resolved to try another encounter
with the Welsh, but probably not with the same confidence
of victory ; and therefore returning to W ales in the next
August, having collected another similarly great army of
English, and assisted by the same Welsh lords, he entered
at Blanch monastery, now Oswestry, being in the lordship
of John the son of William Fitz-Alan. In this expedition,
King John passing the river Conway, and encamping at the
other side towards the hills of Snowdon, sent part of his
army (conducted by guides who were acquainted with the
country) to bum Bangor, which they effectually did; and
taking Robert bishop of that see out of church, they carried
him prisoner to the English camp, where he continued for
some time, till he obtained his ransom for a present of two
hundred hawks : but Prince Lhewelyn finding the whole
strength of England and almost Wales to fight against him,
and judging it impossible with the power he alone possessed
to withstand so great a multitude, thought it best to en-
deavour to find out some method to reconcile himself to the
king: and as he could devise no better measure, he sent
Joan his wife, King John's daughter, to intreat with her
father about a peace, and a cessation of hostilities ; who
being a prudent, wary woman, so prevailed upon the king
that he granted to her husband Prince Lhewelyn a safe
conduct to come to him, and to renew the former peace and

amity

* Rhuddlan — Red Banks ; which might properly take its name from the appear-
ance of the country j or from the battle so fatal to the Welsh, which was fought upon"
Rhuddlan marsh.

f Annales de Margan, p. 15.— Welsh Chron. p. 264. J Ibid.

HISTORY OF WALES. 209

amity that was betwixt them; and so Lhewelyn having
done homage, promised the king towards his expenses in
this expedition 20,000 head of cattle and 40 horses, and,
what was more than all, he surrendered all the inland
countries of Wales, with the appurtenances, to him and his
heirs for ever. King John having succeeded better in this
than the former expedition, he returned to England in
great triumph, having subdued all Wales, excepting that
part which Rhys and Owen, the sons of Gruffydh ap Rhys,
still kept and maintained against the English : but having
no leisure to march against them himself, he, at his depart-
ure out of the country, gave strict charge to Foulke
Viscount of Caerdyff, warden of the marches, a cruel
tyrant, though well beloved and favoured by the king, to
take an army with him, and so joining with Maelgon and
Rhys Fychan, to compel the sons of Gruffydh ap Rhys to
acknowledge him for their sovereign and to do him homage.
Foulke having received so positive a command, immedi-
ately raised his forces, and calling Maelgon and Rhys,
came to the Cantref of Penwedic ; which when the young
lords Rhys and Owen heard of, and being assured that this
blow was levelled against them, and knowing they were not
able to bear it, before any attack was made, they sent to
Foulke to sue for peace, and for a safe conduct for them to
pass to the court of England. This being granted, they
came to London and made their submission to the king,
and requesting his pardon for all former misdemeanors,
they gave up all pretence to their lands betwixt Aeron and
Dyfi; and so paying their homage, they were dismissed
very graciously. Foulke, however, before his departure
out of the country, fortified the castle of Aberystwith, and
placing a strong garrison therein, kept it for the king's use :
but Maelgon and Rhys Fychan, being headstrong, incon-
stant persons, soon repented them of the peace they had
made with the king of England; and thereupon, without
the least reason or provocation, they laid siege to Aber-
ystwith castle, and haying with much difficulty made them-
selves masters of it, they destroyed the fortification which
Foulke had lately erected and rased the castle to the ground.
However, they paid dear for this in another way; for as
soon as Rhys and Owen had heard that their uncles had
broken the king's peace, they made inroads into Isareon,
which was Maelgon's country, and having slain a consider-
able number of his men, among whom was one of peculiar

bravery

210 HISTORY OF WALES.

bravery and strength, a youth called Bachglas, they returned
with a rich booty.

Maelgon and Rhys Fychan were quickly followed by the
men of North Wales in their revolt from the king of
England; for Prince Lhewelyn not being able to endure
any longer the tyranny and oppression which the king's
garrisons exercised in his country, called together Gwen-
wynwyn from Powys, Maelgon ap Rhys from South Wales,
Madoc ap Gruftydh May lor from Bromfield, and Meredith
ap Rotpert from Cydewen, and plainly declared before
them the pride and tyranny of the English, and observed
that they who were always used to have a prince of their
own nation, were now by their own wilfulness and neglect
become subject to strangers : however, it was not too late to
recover their ancient liberty, and if they did but unani-
mously agree among themselves, they might easily cast oft'
that yoke which was so intolerably burdensome to them.
Then the lords being sensible of the truth and justice of
what Prince Lhewelyn had said, and being conscious that
their present slavish subjection to the English was wholly
owing to their own cowardice, swore fealty to Prince Lhe-
welyn, and also swore to be true and faithful to him, and to
stand by each other to the utmost of their lives and fortunes.
Therefore, joining their forces together, they took all the
castles in North Wales which were in the hands of the
English, excepting Rhuddlan, and Piganwy ; and then
going to Powys, they laid siege to the castle which Robert
Vipont had built at Mathrafal. King John being in-
formed that the Welsh had conspired against him, and that
they had taken and seized upon almost all his castles in
North Wales, and that they were now actually besieging
Mathrafal, presently assembled his army, and coming to
Mathrafal, immediately raised the siege, and to prevent the
Welsh from coming any more against it, he burnt it to the
ground, and so returned to England, having no time to stay
any longer in Wales, in consequence of the differences that
happened betwixt him and his nobility : but being after-
wards at Nottingham, and hearing that Prince Lhewelyn
cruelly harassed and destroyed the marches, he caused all
the Welsh pledges which he had received the last year to
be hanged, among whom wereHowel the son of Cadwalhon,
and Madoc the son of Maelgon, with many others of the
sons of Welsh noblemen, to the number of twenty-eight.
About. the same time, Robert Vipont caused Rhys the son
of Maelgon to be hanged at Shrewsbury, being a youth of
about seventeen years of age, and so cruelly murdered the

innocent

HISTORY OF WALES. 211

innocent child in revenge for the crimes and offences com-
mitted by his father and others,*

Though King John was so severe to the Welsh, yet the
Princess of North Walesf was more dutiful and favourable
to him ; for whilst he staid at Nottingham, she sent him an
express, declaring that the barons had entered into a con-
spiracy with the French king against him, and that the
latter was preparing and raising an army to come over to
England, upon pretence that the king was a rebel and bid
open defiance to the Holy Church, inasmuch as he would
not yield to the Bishop of Rome's request. In confirmation
of this, she told him that Robert Fitzwalter, Eustace de
Vescy, and Stephen Redell were secretly fled into France,
to promote and carry on this intrigue. In proof that this
design against King John was no feigned surmise, the next A. D. 1212.
year Pope Innocent the Third detached one of his nuncios
to Wales, who absolved Prince Lhewelyn, Gwenwynwyn,
and Maelgon from their oaths of allegiance to King John,
and withal gave them a strict command, under the penalty
of excommunication, to molest and annoy him with all their
endeavours, as an open enemy to the church of God.J
Prince Lhewelyn was far from being dissatisfied with this,
for now he had gained the most fitting opportunity ima-
ginable to recover such lands as he had formerly much
against his will delivered up to the king, being in the inland
country of Denbigh and Flint, and of which Lhewelyn at
this time repossessed himself: and it was fortunate that he
was so active in doing this ; for within a little while after,
King John, by the persuasions of Pandulph, the Pope's
legate, granted his Holiness all his request, and so obtained
absolution at Pandulph's hands, and, upon performance of
his promises, an assurance of a release from that Ecclesi-
astical Bull which had so formidably roared against him.

South Wales had now been quiet for a considerable time, 1213.
and they that used to be commonly very turbulent and
contentious, were now tolerably easy and amicable : but it
was impossible that such a peaceable course of life should
hold long, where injustice and oppression had so much
sway, and where people were wrongfully kept out of their

just
p. 2

* Welsh Chron. p. 267.— These innocent victims delivered up to John at the late
peace were all of them very young, and allied to the most distinguished families in Wtues.
— Annales de Margan, p. 15. Holinshead, p. 176. Welsh Chron. 276.

f He received two letters, one of which was from the king of Scotland, and the other
was from his daughter, the wife of Prince Lhewelyn.— Welsh Chroc. p. 267.

| Matthew Paris, p. 194. Brady's History of England, p. 482. Annales Waverleiensis $
p. 173. Thomas Wykes, p. 37. Holinshead, p. 176.

212 HISTORY OF WALES.

just and rightful inheritance; and this was the occasion of
the breach of that quietness which for the two or three
years last past they had so satisfactorily enjoyed : for Rhys
the son of Gruffydh ap Rhys, who was right heir to Prince
Rhys, finding he could have no share of his father's estate,
but that his uncles forcibly kept all from him, thought it
best to make his case known to the king of England, and to
desire a remedy and redress from him. King John, in
compassion for the young man's hard condition, sent to his
deputy, Foulke Viscount of Caerdyff, warden of the marches,
and to the Steward of Hereford, commanding them to take
away all Ystratywy from Rhys Fychan, by some called Rhys
Gryg,* unless he would permit his nephews to enjoy Lhan-
ymdhyfry castle, with all the lands and privileges thereunto
belonging. Foulke having received such orders 'from his
master the king of England, sent to acquaint Rhys of the
proposals, and to demand of him whether or not he would
deliver up Lhanymdhyfry to his nephews, according to the
king's command; who returned answer, that he did not
know of any such obligation due from him to the king of
England as to part with his lands at his command, and
therefore assured him peremptorily, and in plain terms, that
he would not willingly part with one foot of what he was
then in possession of. Foulke, therefore, having received
this resolute answer, was likewise as determined to get that
by force which he could not obtain by fair means ; and so
having raised a great army, he marched to Talhwynelgain
to meet young Rhys, who was to come thither with all the
forces he could raise in Brecknock ; and from thence they
marched in three divisions towards Dynefawr, the first
being commanded by young Rhys, the second by Foulke,
and Owen, brother to Rhys, led the third. Rhys Fychan
was not in the least dismayed at their number, but thinking
it more advisable to meet them in the field than to suffer
them to block him up at Dynefawr, came out very boldly
and gave them battle ; when, after a warm engagement on
both sides, Rhys Fychan was defeated, and after losing a
great number of his men, he was glad to make his escape by
flight: wherefore, retiring to Dynefawr, he doubled the
garrison of that place, but thinking the town of Lhandeilo-
fawr not tenable, he burnt it to the ground, and then hid
himself in the woods and other retired places : however,
young Rhys and Foulke laid siege to Dynefawr, and in the
first assault attacked it so fiercely, that they forced the
garrison to retire to the castle, which for some time they

defended

* Rough Rhys.

HISTORY OF WALES. 213

defended very manfully : the besiegers, however, b3gan to
play so violently with their battering engines, and to under-
mine the wall in such a manner, that the governor after a
short defence offered to capitulate, giving three pledges for'
security, that if they received no relief by the morrow at
noon the castle should be surrendered, upon condition that
the garrison should march out with all the tokens of honour,
and carry their arms and all other implements of war along
with them. No relief being arrived, the castle the next
day was accordingly surrendered, and all the articles of the
capitulation observed; and thus young Rhys being pos-
sessed of Dynefawr, in a little time afterwards brought all
Cantreffawr to his subjection. When Rhys Fychan was
aware that the stream of affairs was running violently against
him, he thought it his wisest way to remove his wife and
children, and all his other effects, to his brother Maelgon's
country, and so leaving Lhanymdhyfry castle well manned
and fortified, he departed towards Aberystwith. As soon,
however, as Foulke was returned to the marches, young
Rhys came with an army, consisting of Welsh and Normans,
before Lhanymdhyfry, intending to besiege that place; but
before they were encamped in front of the town, the governor
thought it his best way to surrender, upon condition that
the garrison should depart with their lives. Shortly after-
wards, Rhys Fychan was taken at Caermardhyn and com-
mitted to the king's prison, and so all the disturbances and
troubles of South Wales came to a peaceable issue. But in
North Wales it was not so; for Prince Lhewelyn, being
desirous to rid his country from the insupportable tyranny
and oppression of the English garrisons, laid siege to the
castles of Diganwy and Ruddlan, the only places then
remaining in the hands of the English, which he took with-
out any great opposition, and thus freed his country from
any title or pretence the king of England might claim in
North Wales.* King John indeed was engaged another
way, and consequently in no good condition to help him-
self; for having expressed his regret on account of the
indignities and obstinacy he had offered towards Pope
Innocent, at this time he did penance before the Archbishop
of Canterbury, to atone for all the severities he had prac-
tised against the church; and to restore himself the more
to his Holiness's favour, he made the kingdom of England
tributary to the church of Rome, to be holden of the Pope,
by payment of the sum of 1000 marks yearly for ever; and
withal recalled and restored to their former preferments and

places
* Annales Waverleiensis, p. 174. Welsh Chron. p. 270.

214 HISTORY OF WALES.

places all such as had been banished, or had voluntarily
fled the kingdom, on account of their strict adherence and
submission to the Pope of Rome.

A. D. 1214. Nor was this all ; for the next year King John, with two
of his nobility, the Earls of Chester and Derby, were
resolved upon a voyage to the Holy Land, but were pre-
vented taking the journey by the rebellion of the barons,
which now broke forth violently, because the king would
not grant to them those ancient laws and privileges that
their forefathers had always enjoyed. Therefore the barons
entered into a confederacy with Prince Lhewelyn of North
Wales, desiring him to make what diversion he could on his
part, while they were resolved to do the same on theirs ;
and having raised an army, they appointed Robert Fitz-
walter their general. Coming to Bedford, they were
honourably received into the castle by William Beauchamp,
and from thence marching to London, they were entertained
with all the expressions of joy. King John perceiving how
powerful they were likely to prove, and that the country did
in a great measure favour their cause, thought it his wisest
way to nip them in the bud, and to fall upon them before
they grew too strong ; and, therefore, having levied his
forces, he marched, together with William Marshal Earl of
Pembroke, towards the castle of Rochester : being arrived
there, he laid close siege to the castle, but the governor,
William de Albineto, so bravely defended it, that it could
scarcely be taken after three months' siege ; at length, how-
ever, the king's men attacked it so violently, that they took
it by storm, where, besides William de Albineto, the king
took several of the barons prisoners. This was a disastrous
beginning to the design of the confederates, and what did
not add a little to their misfortune, the Pope immediately
1215. issued out a Bull of Excommunication against Lhewelyn
Prince of Wales, and all the English barons that made war
against King John, who was under the protection of the
Church of Rome;* but Prince Lhewelyn did not regard his
threatening anathemas, and therefore having raised an army,
he came to Shrewsbury, which was delivered up to him
without any resistance. Whilst Lhewelyn remained there,
Giles de Bruce, Bishop of Hereford, one of the chief of
this conspiracy, sent his brother Reynold to Brecknock,
whom all the people readily owned for their lord ; therefore
' without the least grumbling or opposition he received the
castles of Abergavenny and Pencelhy, the Castelh Gwyn
(or the White Castle), together with Grosmont castle and

the
* Annales Waverleiensis, p. 182.— Welsh Chron. p. 271.

HISTORY OF WALES.

the island of Cynvric : and when the bishop came thither in
person, lie had the castles of Aberhondhy, Hay, Buelht,
and Blaenlhyfny also delivered up to him; but thinking he
had enough himself, and being rather desirous to secure his
interest, and to strengthen his party in the country, than to
heap more upon his own shoulders than he was well able to
support, he bestowed Payne castle, Chine, and all Elvel,
upon Walter Fychan, the son of Eineon Clyd.

In the mean time young Rhys, the son of Gruffydh ap
Rhys, and his uncle Maelgon, were reconciled and made
friends, and so coming both to Dyfed, they destroyed
Arberth and Maenclochoc castles, and recovered all such
lands as formerly belonged to them^ excepting Cemaes : but
Rhys's brothers Maelgon and Owen^ went to North Wales
and did homage and fealty to Prince Lhewelyn, whilst their
brother Prince Rhys marched forward to Cydwely, and
having rased the castles of Carnwylheon and Lhychwr,
brought all the country thereabout under his subjection.
This, however, did not satisfy the ambition of that young
prince; for having once tasted the pleasures of victory,
and the satisfaction of taking and demolishing towns, he was
resolved to prosecute his conquest whilst Fortune seemed to
favour his undertakings ; and, therefore, he led his army
against Talybont castle, which belonged to Hugh de Miles,
and forcing his entrance into the same,- he put a great num-
ber of the garrison to the sword. The next day he marched
to Sengennyth castle, but the garrison which kept it, think-
ing it fruitless to attempt to oppose him, burnt the place
and departed to Ystymlhwynarth : but he followed them
closely, and the next day took that place and rased it to the
ground, and wasted the country in such a violent manner,
that in three days time he became master of all the castles
and fortresses in all Gowerland and Morgannwc, and then
returned home with great victory and triumph. At the
same time Rhys Fychan, otherwise Rhys Gryg, the uncle of
young Prince Rhys, obtained his liberty from the King of
England, leaving his son with two others as pledges for his
moderate and peaceable behaviour towards his subjects,
whom at other times he had molested and oppressed.
About this time the abbots of Tal y Llecheu and Ty Gwyn,
were consecrated bishops, the former of St. David's, and
the other of Bangor: and the Bishop of Hereford, who
seemed to be the most violently inclined against King
John, and was otherwise unwilling to part with what he had
got in Wales, could not refuse the injunction of the Pope,
by whose express command he was constrained to make

peace

216 HISTORY OF WALES.

peace with the king, which being concluded, in his return
homeward, he died at Gloucester, leaving his estate to his
brother Reginald, who had married the daughter of Prince
Lhewelyn.*

Notwithstanding Giles de Bruce, Bishop of Hereford,

had relinquished the confederacy, and become reconciled to

King John, yet Prince Lhewelyn would not follow his

example, and, therefore, with his whole army he marched

against Caermardhyn, and took the castle in five days ;

having rased it the ground, he successively laid siege to the

castles of Lhanstephan, St. Cleare, and Talacharn, which

he used after the same manner. From thence he went to

Cardigan, and taking Emlyn castle, he subdued Cemaes,

and then laying siege to Trefdraeth castle, in English called

Newport, he soon took it, and afterwards rased it to the

ground. His next design was upon Aberteifi and Cil-

gerran castles, but the garrisons which defended them,

finding it would be of no avail to wait his coming, and to

endeavour to withstand his attempts against those places,

voluntarily surrendered, and by that means prevented all the

evils, which in opposing him, would in all probability have

unavoidably come upon them. Prince Lhewelyn having

thus successfully over-run and subdued all Caermardhyn and

Cardigan, triumphantly returned to North Wales, being

attended by several of the Welsh nobility, such as Howel ap

Gruffydh ap Conan, Lhewelyn ap Meredith, Gwenwynwyn

Lord of Powys, Meredith ap Rotpert, Maelgon and Rhy s

Fychan the sons of Prince Rhys of South Wales, Rhys and

Owen the sons of Gruffydh ap Rhys, together with all the

power of Madoc ap Gruffydh Maylor Lord of Bromfield.f

A. D. 1216. The next year Prince Lhewelyn returned to Aberteifi to

compose a difference, which since his departure had

happened betwixt Maelgon and Rhys Fychan, sons of

Prince Rhys, on the one side, and Rhys and Owen, sons of

Gruffydh ap Rhys, on the other. To make up this quarrel,

and to bring all matters to a quiet and amicable issue,

Prince Lhewelyn made an equal distribution of South

Wales betwixt them, alloting to Maelgon three Cantrefs in

Dyfed, viz. Gwarthaf, Penlhwynoc, Cemaes, and Emlyn,

with Cilgerran castle ; to young Rhys, two castles in

Ystratywy, Hirvryn and Maelhaen, Maenor Bydfey, with

the castle of Lhanymdhyfry, and two in Cardigan, Gwyn-

ionyth and Mahwyneon. His brother Owen had to his

share the castles of Aberteifi and Nant yr Arian, with three

Cantrefs

* Welsh Chron. p. 273.
t Welsh Chrop. p. 273. Hist. Gwedir Family, p. 26.

HISTORY OF WALES. 217

Cantrefs in Cardigan ; and Rhys Fychan, otherwise called
Rhys Gryc, had Dynefawr castle, the Cantref Mawr, the
Cantref By chan, excepting Hirvryn and Midhfey, together
with the Comotes of Cydwely and Carnwylhion. This
division being accomplished to every one's satisfaction, and
all the lords of South Wales being amicably reconciled.
Prince Lhewelyn took his journey for North Wales ; but he
had not advanced far, when intelligence was brought him
that Gwenwynwyn Lord of Powys had revolted, and was
become again the King of England's subject. This un-
welcome news struck very deep in the prince's mind,
because Gwenwynwyn was a man of great power and
strength in the country, and of great service to repel the
incursions of the English upon the marches, which now,
h(i having gone over to the English interest, could not, as
Lhewelyn feared, be so well effected. However, to make
the best of a bad matter, he endeavoured to withdraw him
from the English, and to restore him to his former allegiance
due to himself as his natural prince ; and to that end, he
sent to him some bishops and abbots to put him in mind
of the oath and promise he had entered into, and that he,
with the rest of the lords of Wales, had bound himself to
oppose the English to the utmost of his power, and had
delivered pledges for the sure performance of what he had
then by oath engaged in; and lest he should have forgotten
what he had then promised, he was desired to read his own
hand-writing, whereby it was apparent that he had very
unjustly violated both his oath and promise : but all the
rhetoric the bishops could make use of, was not of force
sufficient to induce Gwenwynwyn to become reconciled to
the Prince and to oppose the King of England; and,
therefore, seeing nothing else would do, Prince Lhewelyn
resolved to make him incapable of serving the English, and
entering Powys with a strong army, he subdued the whole
country to himself, Gwenwynwyn being forced to fly for
succour to the Earl of Chester.*

Whilst these things passed in Wales, Lewis, the Dauphin
of France, being invited by the English barons against
King John, landed in the island of Thanet, and marching
forward to London, he there received homage of all the
barons that were in actual war against the king. Then
going forward towards Winchester, where King John lay,
he took in his way the castles of Rygate, Guildford, and
Farnham,' and coming to Winchester, had the town im-
mediately surrendered to him. King John did not think it

advisable

* Welsh Chron. p. 274.

218 HISTORY OF WALES.

advisable to abide his coming, but removing to Hereford,
in the marches of Wales, he sent to Prince Lhewelyn and
Reynald de Bruce, desiring their friendship, and imploring
their aid and assistance against the French ; and Ilicy
refusing to hearken to his proposals, he destroyed Radnor
and Hay castles, and marching forward to Oswestry,* which
belonged to John Fitzalan, he burnt it to the ground, and
then departed towards the North : but after he had settled
his affairs there, and appointed governors in all the towns
and places of strength, whilst he was making all necessary
preparations at Newark to confront the barons, he fell sick,
and in a short time died, and was buried at Worcester.

After his death his son Henry was by several of the
English nobility proclaimed king, and in a little while,
most of the barons, who on account of their hatred to King
John, had maintained an open war against that monarch,
came in and owned their allegiance to his son Henry,
though contrary to their oath to Lewis the Dauphin : but
A. D.1217. what was most disastrous to the Welsh, Reynald de Bruce,
who had all this while maintained a confederacy with Prince
Lhewelyn, his father-in-law, against King John, secretly
made his peace with King Henry. He suffered severely,
however, for his treachery; for young Rhys, and Owen his
nephew by his sister, seeing that he in whom they put their
greatest confidence, had deceitfully forsaken them, came
upon him with all their power, and took from him all
Buelht, excepting only the castle. Prince Lhewelyn was
immediately made acquainted with Bmce's revolt, and as
soon as he was informed that his son-in-law was gone over
to the King of England, he went in great fury to Breck-
nockshire, and laying siege to Aberhondhu, its principal
town, he was with much persuasion prevailed upon by
young Rhys to raise the siege for the sum of a hundred
marks, and at the same time receiving five hostages ; and
then crossing the mountainous part of Glamorgan, called
the Black Mountains, where his carriages suffered very
much, he came to Gwyr, and encamping at Lhangruc,
Reynald de Bruce with six knights in his company, came to
meet him, desiring his pardon for his past offence, as-
suring him that in future he would be true and faithful to
him, and would do his utmost to assist him against the King
of England. Prince Lhewelyn accepted his submission,
and not only received him again to his favour, but bestowed
upon him the castle of Senghennyth, which Reynald after-
wards committed to the custody of Rhys Fychan.

Prince

* Welsh Chron. p. 275.

HISTORY OF WALES. 219

Prince Lhewelyn having put all things in order in Gwyr,
marched to Dyfed, and being at Cefn Cynwarchan, the
Flemings sent their agents to him to desire peace, which
the prince, because they always adhered to the English
interest, would not grant them. Young Rhys was the first
man to pass the river Cledheu to storm the town; but
lorwerth bishop of St. David's, with the rest of his clergy,
came to the prince to intreat for a peace for the Flemings,
which, after a long discussion, was granted upon these
terms: first, That all the inhabitants of Rhos, and the
country of Pembroke, should from thence forward swear
allegiance to Prince Lhewelyn, and ever after acknowledge
his sovereignty ; secondly, That towards the defraying of
his charges in this expedition, they should pay one thousand
marks, to be delivered to him before the ensuing feast of St.
Michael ; thirdly, That for the sure performance of these
articles they should deliver up twenty hostages, who were
to be some of the principal persons in their country.* Then
Prince Lhewelyn having brought all Wales into subjection
to himself, and put matters in a settled posture in South
Wales, returned to North Wales, having gained consider-
able honour and esteem for his martial achievements in this
expedition.

All matters of difference being now adjusted, and the
Welsh in good hopes of a durable freedom from all troubles
and hostilities, another accident unhappily occurred to cross
their expectation. Lewis the Dauphin, perceiving the English
barons slighted and forsook him, concluded a peace with
King Henry, and returned to France • and the king having
made a promise to the barons that, he would grant all their
requests, and redress their grievances, they made their sub-
mission, without including the Welsh in their articles.
They had until this time gladly embraced the friendship
and aid of the Prince of Wales ; but now, upon their recon-
ciliation with the king, thinking they had no farther need of
him, they basely forsook him who had been the principal
support and succour of their cause : and not only so, but
they conspired together to carry their arms against Wales,
thinking they could, without any breach of equity or con-
science, take away the lands of the Welsh, to make addition
to what some of them had already unjustly possessed them-
selves of. William Marshal Earl of Pembroke commenced
the work, and coming unexpectedly upon the Welsh, took
the town of Caerlheon ;f but he gained nothing by this, for
Rhys Fychan perceiving what was his intention, destroyed

Senghennyth
* Welsh Chron. p. 278. f Ibid.

220 HISTORY OF WALES.

Senghennyth castle, and all the other places under his con-
troul in that country, and banishing the English with their
wives and children, divided the country betwixt the Welsh,
who kept sure possession of it. Prince Lhewelyn also find-
A.D. 1218. ing that those had become his foes, who had but lately
courted his friendship, and fearing lest the English being
now in arms should make any attempt upon his castles,
augmented the garrisons of Caermardhyn and Aberteifi, to
make them capable of withstanding the English, in case
they should come against them. Though the Welsh and
English were thus at open variance and in actual hostility
one against the other, yet young Rhys, with Prince Lhe-
welyn's approbation and consent, thought it advisable to go
and do homage to the king of England, for his lands in
Wales. It might have been thought a matter of superero-
gation thus to pay court to one who was a declared enemy to
all the Welsh, and one that would not in all probability
suffer him to enjoy a quiet possession of his estate, if he had
ability and opportunity to eject him : but the Welsh interest

1219. was now greatly augmented by a new alliance with some of
the most powerful among the English ; Rhys Gryc, son of
Prince Rhys, being married to the Earl of Clare's daughter ;
and Marret, daughter of Prince Lhewelyn, to John de
Bruce.*

The Prince of Wales had very soon an occasion to exer-
cise his power, for the Flemings in Dyfed, who had lately
sworn allegiance to him, began now to repent of what they
had but a short time ago gladly submitted to, and contrary
to their oaths, and to the league they had sworn to observe,
they attacked Aberteifi castle, which they took. Prince
Lhewelyn, being highly displeased with the treacherous
practices of these perjured Flemings, marched with all
speed to Aberteifi, and having recovered the castle, which
he afterwards rased, he put all the garrison to the sword.
Gwys was served in the same manner, and the town of

1220. Haverford was burnt to the ground, and overrunning Rhos
and Daugledhau,f he committed a lamentable destruction
throughout the whole country. This the Flemings received
as the due reward of their sinistrous dealing, which soon
made them aware of their folly, and their imprudent be-
haviour towards the Prince of Wales ; and therefore being
mournfully convinced how unable they were to prevent his
farther progress by force of arms, they made overtures for a

cessation

* Welsh Chron. p. 279. Some time afterwards he likewise married another of hi»
daughters to a Scotch lord, who was nephew and heir to the Earl of Chester. —
Holinshead, p. 204.

f Or « Two Swords."

HISTORY OF WALES. 221

cessation of all hostilities till the May following, which being
granted them upon strict conditions, Prince Lhewelyn re-
turned to North Wales. In the mean time some Welsh
lords besieged Bnelht castle, which was in the }x>ssession of
Reynald Bruce, but before they could take it, King Henry
brought an army to the marches and raised the siege, and
then marching forward to Montgomery, built a new castle
in that town.*

The next year an unhappy dissension fell out betwixt A. D. 1221.
Prince Lhewelyn and his son Gruffydh ; the latter having
kept himself in possession of the Cantref of Merioneth, con-
trary to the consent arid approbation of his father. The
Prince, therefore, having now no great matter of moment
abroad, was resolved to curb the insolence of his son, and
sent to him to command his appearance, and to direct him
to deliver up the Cantref quietly, lest he should be forced to
take it violently out of his hands. Gruffydh was not in the
least dismayed at his threatenings, but being resolved to
keep what at present he enjoyed, would neither go to his
father, nor deliver up the Cantref to him. The Prince
being enraged that he should be so slighted by his son,
made a vehement protestation, that he would be severely
revenged both of him and all his accomplices ; and therefore
coming to Merionyth with a great army, was resolved to
drive his son out of the country. Gruffydh made all pos-
sible preparations to oppose his father, and drew up his
forces to give him battle ; but when both armies were ready
to join, the differences between them were happily com-
posed, and Gruffydh prevailed upon to make his submission
to his father, f The prince, though he forgave his son his
offence, and received him to favour, would not, however,
permit him to enjoy Merionyth and Ardydwy ; but taking
them away from him, and building a castle ill the latter,
returned home. He had not continued long at his palace
at Aberffraw, when another occasion called him abroad ;
for young Rhys, being disappointed of Aberteifi, which in
the division of South Wales was allotted to his share, forsook
the prince, and put himself under the protection of William
Marshal Earl of Pembroke. Prince Lhewelyn, hearing this,
marched in great haste to Aberystwyth, and being desirous
to punish Rhys for his desertion from his allegiance, seized
to his own use that castle, together with all the domain and
lands belonging to it. When Rhys understood what the
prince had done, he made an immediate complaint to the
King of England, who coming to Shrewsbury, and sending

for

* Matthew Paris, p. 262. t Welsh Chron. p. 280,

222 HISTORY OF WALES.

for Prince Lhewelyn, so adjusted matters between them,*
that the Prince promised to treat with Rhys for Aberteifi,
after the same manner as he had done with Maelgon for
Caermardhyn. Towards the close of the year, John Bruce,
Prince Lhewelyn's son-in-law, obtained leave to fortify
Senghennyth castle, which in right of the prince's grant to
Reynald de Bruce belonged to him. Young Rhys did not
long survive the agreement between him and Prince Lhe-
welyn, for he died the following year, and was buried at
Ystratflur : after whose death the prince divided his estate
between his brother Owen and his uncle Maelgon.
A. D. 1222. William Marshal Earl of Pembroke was now in Ireland,
busily engaged in prosecuting the war against the King of
England's enemies in that kingdom ; and taking advantage
of the opportunity of his absence, Prince Lhewelyn won the
castles of Aberteifi and Caermardhyn, belonging to the Earl,
and putting both the garrisons to the sword, placed in their
room a strong party of his own men ;f but when the Earl
was informed of what the Prince of Wales had done, he
immediately left Ireland, and landed at St. David's with a
great army, and having recovered his castles, he treated the
Welsh after the same manner that Prince Lhewelyn had used
his garrisons, and passing forward into the prince's country,
destroyed all before him as he went along. The Prince
understanding with what violence he came forward, sent his
son Gruffydh with a considerable body of men to check his
fury ; who coming to Cydwely, and receiving intelligence
that the chief men of that place had a private design to
betray him to the enemy, he put the whole town in flames,
and burnt it to the ground, without sparing either churches
or other religious houses. The Earl of Pembroke had
passed the river Tywy at Caermardhyn, where Gruffydh
met him, and gave him battle; but the victory proved so
uncertain, that night at length parted them ; and then the
English retired over the river. Matthew Paris writes, that
the Earl obtained a very signal victory, and that of the
Welsh there were nine thousand slain and taken; though
the Welsh account, which in this case is in all likelihood
the best, makes the whole army of the Welsh to consist but
of that number.:}: Both armies having lain for certain days
in a posture of defence, with the river Tywy between them,
Gruffydh, on account of provision beginning to grow scarce
in his camp, returned back;§ and then the Earl also de-
camped

* Welsh Chron. pp. 281, 282.

t Chr. Thomas Wykes, p. 41. Chronica Walter! Hemingford, p. 564. Matth. Westm.
p. 86. Matth, Paris, p. 267.

t Welsh Chron. p. 282. § Ibid.

HISTORY OF WALES. 223

camped, and marched to Cilgerran, where he began to build
a very strong castle ; but before he had time to finish it, he
received an express from the king, with orders to come to
him ; and so he went by sea to London, leaving his army
at Cilgerran, to continue the work which he had begun.
Shortly after, the king, together with the Archbishop of
Canterbury, came to Ludlow, and sendhijg for Prince Lhe-
welyn thither, they hoped to adjust all differences, and to
make an amicable arrangement between him and the Earl ;
but this could not be effected, both parties adhering to their
own private views; the Earl, therefore, being assisted by
the Earl of Derby and Henry Pyggot Lord of Ewyas, pur-
posed to pass by land to Pembroke ; but his intention being
discovered to the prince, he detached his son to secure the
passage of Carnwylhion, and came in person to Mahedryd ;
which when the Earl understood, finding it dangerous to
prosecute his design any further, he returned to England ;
and then the prince marched to North Wales.* The next A. D. 1227.
action that passed in Wales was of a nature somewhat
rare, and not redounding much to the credit of the
Welsh ; for Rhys Fychan having by some treacherous
means or other taken prisoner his father Rhys Gryc, con-
trary to all filial affection and duty, detained him prisoner,
and would not set him at liberty till he had delivered up
Lhanymdhyfri castle to him. About the same time,
Meredith Archdeacon of Cardigan, son of Prince Rhys,
departed this life, and was honourably interred at St.
David's, by his father.

A short time after, a great storm threatened the Welsh ; j228.
King Henry having raised a numerous army, was resolved
to prosecute to a termination the Earl of Pembroke's quar-
rel against the Prince of Wales, and if possible, to make all
that country for ever subject to the crown of England ; and,
advancing into the marches, he encamped at Ceri.f Prince
Lhewelyn, on the other hand, being informed of these
mighty preparations in England, and understanding that
they were intended against him, used all the endeavours
possible to make a vigorous resistance ; and having drawn
together all the forces he was able to levy, thought it his
wisest plan to meet the English upon the marches, and not
to permit them to enter his country. Both armies being
come in sight of each other, frequent skirmishes happened
betwixt them; but one day, almost the whole of both
armies engaged, and after a vigorous attack on both sides,
the English got the worst, and were forced to retire, having

a
* Welsh Chron. p. 283. f In Montgomeryshire.

224 HISTORY OF WALES.

a great number of men slain and taken prisoners. Among
the latter, was William de Bruce, Reynald's son, who
offered for his ransom all Buelht, together with a consider-
able sum of money, which the prince would not accept.
King Henry, finding that his army was worsted in this
encounter, thought it advisable to make peace with the
Prince of Wales, which being concluded, Lhewelyn came to
the king, and having paid him all other respects, excepting
that of submission and allegiance, he returned in great
honour to North Wales. This action is somewhat other-
wise laid down by Matthew Paris,* who writes, that this
skirmish betwixt the English and Welsh happened upon
another account. He says, the garrison of Montgomery
issuing out of the castle to enlarge a certain passage leading
through a wood, where the Welsh were wont to rob and
kill all passengers, began to fell the timber, and cut down
all the bushes which bounded the road, thereby intending
to make the passage more clear and secure. The Welsh
receiving intelligence of this, came immediately upon them
in great numbers, and surprising the men of the garrison,
who were busy at their labour, forced as many as could
escape to betake themselves for refuge into the castle, which
afterwards, having first cast a deep trench about it, they
boldly invested. Hubert de Burgh, Lord Chief Justice of
England, and owner of the castle, having notice of this, sent
to King Henry, desiring his speedy help against the Welsh,
who thereupon came in person with part of his army, and
raised the siege. Then, the rest of his forces being arrived,
he marched into the wood, which was 5 miles in length,f and
by reason of the thickness of the growth, impassable ; and,
for an easy passage through it, caused it to be burnt down.
After that, he led his army farther into the country, and
coming to an abbey called Cridia,J to which the Welsh were
wont to resort for refuge, he caused it to be burnt down ;
but finding it a very convenient place for a fortress, he
granted leave to Hubert de Burgh to build a castle there. §
Whilst the work of building this castle was going on, the
Welshmen annoyed the English, and skirmished with them
frequently, so that many were slain on both sides ; but at
last William de Bruce with many others that went abroad to
fetch provision, were intercepted by the Welsh, and taken
prisoners, and most of Bruce's company were slain, amorig

whom

* Matthew Paris, p. 295.

f Warrington (vol. ii. p. 56) says this wood was 15 miles in length.
J A solitary place, called Cridia, of the Carmelite order, an abbey belonging to the
White Friars.

§ Matthew Paris, p. 295.

HISTORY OF WALES. 225

whom one that was knighted a few days before, seeing some
of his fellows in great danger, rushed boldly into the midst
of his enemies, and after a manful defence bravely lost his
life. Several of King Henry's men were corrupted by
Prince Lhewelyn, and upon that account took no great pains
to repulse the enemy ; which when the king perceived, and
finding withal that provision was grown very scarce in his
camp, he was forced to conclude a dishonourable peace with
the Welsh, consenting to demolish that castle, which with
so great an expence both of men and money was now almost
finished upon his own charges, Prince Lhewelyn paying
only three thousand pounds towards it.* Then both armies
separated, Prince Lhewelyn marching to North Wales ; and
the king, leaving William de Bruce prisoner with the
Welsh, returned to England, having obtained much dis-
credit in this expedition.

William de Bruce was brought to Wales^ and there had A. D. 1230.
an honourable confinement in the prince's palace ;f but he
had not continued there "long before he began to be sus-
pected of being too familiar with the princess, King Henry's
sister ; and, as the report went, was taken in the very act of
adultery ; for which the prince caused him to be hanged
forthwith.^ About the same time, Lhewelyn, son of Mael-
gon, died in North Wales, and was buried at Conwey : and
Maelgon, son of Prince Rhys, in South Wales, and was
buried at Ystratflur; whose estate descended to his son
Maelgon. A little afterwards William Marshal Earl of
Pembroke died, one that ever entertained an inveterate 1231.
enmity to the Welsh, and upon whose account King Henry
had chiefly brought his army into Wales. He was suc-
ceeded both in his title and estate by his brother Richard,
who was much more favourably inclined towards the Welsh,
and never attempted any thing against them. The King of
England now resolved to retrieve the honour he had lost in

the
Q

* Matthew Paris, p. 295. f At Aber.

J Matthew West. p. 97, says, he was put to death without reason ; so say many
other English writers. The tradition of the country is, that a bard of the palace, acci-
dentally meeting with the princess, (who was ignorant of the fate of her lover,) accosted
her in the following manner j and on receiving her answer, shewed him to her hanging
on a tree.

Diccyn doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
Beth y roit'i am weled Gwilim ?

The princess's answer — >

Cymry, Lloegr, a Llywelyn
Y rown'i gyd, am weled Gwilim.

BARD. — Tell me, wife of Llywelyn, what would you give for a sight of your William ?
PRINCESS.— Wales, England, and Llywelyn to boot, I would give them all to see my
William.

226 HISTORY OF WALES.

the late expedition against the Welsh ; and therefore being
returned from France, whither he had made a descent, to
recover what his father had lost in that kingdom, he came to
Wales; and having remained some time in the marches,
he returned again to England, leaving his army under the
command of Hubert Burgh Earl of Kent, to defend the
marches against any inroad which the Welsh might attempt.
He had not remained there long, when he received intelli-
gence that a party of Welsh had entered the marches near
Montgomery, whom he forthwith pursued, and attacking
them unawares, he put a great number of them to the sword.
Prince Lhewelyn, hearing of this, came in person with a
great army to the marches, and encamping before Mont-
gomery castle, he forced Hubert to withdraw, and then
making himself master of the place, he burnt it to the
ground, and put the garrison to the sword ; the like fate
attended the castles of Radnor, Aberhondhy, RhayadrGwy,
Caerlheon, Neth, and Cydwely; though Caerlheon held
out very obstinately, and the prince had several of his men
destroyed before the place. King Henry being informed
what miserable desolation the Prince of Wales was success-
fully committing upon his subjects in these countries, had
him immediately excommunicated; and then coming to
Hereford with a mighty army, he detached the greatest part
of it, with a great number of his nobility, to Wales. These,
by the direction of a friar of Cymer, unexpectedly, as they
thought, fell upon a party of Welsh ; who at the first en-
counter seemed to fly, till they had allured the English to
pursue them to a place where a greater party of Welsh lay
in ambuscade ; who rushing of a sudden upon the English,
put them in such confusion, that the greatest part of them
were cut off. The king, being convinced that this was a
treacherous device of the friar, was resolved to be revenged,
by burning the abbey of Cymer ; but the prior, for three
hundred marks, prevented it ; and so the king returned to
England, having effected nothing in this expedition, besides
the building of Mawd castle. In the mean time, Maelgon,
son of Maelgon ap Rhys, laid siege to Aberteifi, and having
by force got entry into the town, he put all the inhabitants
to the sword, then destroyed all before him to the castle
gates, which were so strongly fortified, that it seemed almost
impracticable to take it in any short time ; but Maelgon,
being joined by his cousin Owen, son of Gruffydh ap Rhys,
was resolved to try the utmost that could be effected ; and
therefore taking with him some of Prince Lhewelyn's most
experienced officers, he broke down the bridge upon the

river

HISTORY OF WALES. 227

river Teifi, and then investing the castle more closely, he so
battered and undermined it, that he became in a little time
master of it.

The year following, Prince Lhewelyn made a descent A. D. 1232.
upon England, and having committed very considerable
waste and destruction upon the borders, he returned to
North Wales with a rich booty in prisoners and cattle.
King Henry, to scourge the Welsh for these grievous
devastations, and to prevent their further incursions into
England, demanded a very great subsidy of his subjects to
carry on the war against the Welsh ; which being granted
him, he made every preparation for his expedition to Wales/
In the mean time, Randulph Earl of Chester died, and was*
succeeded in that honour by John his sister's son, who was
afterwards married to Prince Lhewelyn's daughter. The
English in Wales, being in expectation of King Henry's
coming thither, began to repair and fortify their castles ;
and particularly, Richard Earl of Cornwal rebuilt Radnor 1233.
castle, which the prince had lately destroyed. Prince
Lhewelyn was sufficiently aware that the king of England
intended an invasion, and therefore to be before-hand with
him, he came with an army to Brecknock, and destroyed all
the towns and Castles throughout the country, excepting
Brecknock castle, which was defended so manfully, that
after a month's encampment before it, he was at last con-
strained to raise the siege. In his return to North Wales,
he burnt the town of Clun, recovered all the country called
Dyflfryn Tefeidiat, in the possession of John Fitzalan, de-
stroyed Red Castle in Powis, and burnt Oswestry.* At
this time, very fortunately for the Welsh, Richard Marshal
Earl of Pembroke, having differed with King Henry, took
part with Prince Lhewelyn ; with whom joined Hubert de
Burgh, who had lately made his escape out of the castle of
Devizes, where the king, upon some articles of information
brought against him, had committed him to prison.f The
Earl of Pembroke, attended by Owen ap Gruffydh ap Rhys,
came to St. David's ; and being very glad of an opportunity
to revenge himself upon the king, slew every one that owned
any dependence upon the crown of England. Maelgon and
Rhys Gryc, with all the forces of Prince Lhewelyn, quickly
joined the Earl ; and they in their march through the country

took
Q 2

* Matthew Paris, p. 28§.

f Among other frivolous crimes objected against this minister, he was accused of pur-
loining from the royal treasury a gem, which had the virtue of rendering the wearer
invulnerable, and of sending this valuable curiosity to the Prince of North Wales.—
Matthew Paris, p. 259.

228 HISTORY OF WALES.

took the castles of CardyfF, Abergavenny, Pencelby,
Blaenlhefyni, and Bwlch y Dinas, all of which, excepting
CardyfF, they burnt to the ground. The king receiving
intelligence that the Earl of Pembroke had entered into
a confederacy with the Prince of Wales, and that he was
now in open hostility against his subjects in that country,
gathered a very formidable army, consisting, besides Eng-
lish, of Flemings, Normans, and Gascoigns ; and coming to
Wales, he encamped at Grosmont, where the Earl with the
Welsh army met him. But when the English would have
endeavoured to advance further into the country, the Welsh
opposed them, and a battle ensued, wherein the English lost
five hundred horse, besides a far greater number of their
infantry. The Welsh having gained a considerable victory
in this action, the king was advised to withdraw his forces,
lest the Welsh should again attack them, and they should
sustain a greater loss; which counsel the king willingly
hearkened to, and returned for England. The English
being withdrawn, the Earl likewise decamped, and marched
to Caermardhyn, which he besieged ; but after three months
vain assault, the garrison most bravely defending the place,
and the English fleet having thrown in new provisions, he
thought it most advisable to raise the siege. Shortly after,
Rhys Gryc, son to Prince Rhys, died at Lhandeilo Fawr,
and was honourably interred by his father at St. David's.
About the same time, Maelgon Fychan, son of Maelgon ap
Rhys, finished Trefilean castle, which was begun in his
father's time.

A. D. 1234. King Henry was not willing to hazard any more cam-
paigns in Wales, and therefore he appointed John of
Monmouth, a great soldier and general of the English
forces, warden of the marches of Wales, who thinking to
get to himself an eternal name in conquering the Welsh,
raised all the power he could ; and imagining that the
Welsh would not be aware of his purpose, he thought he
could fall upon the Earl Marshal unexpectedly: but in
this he was, to his sorrow, much mistaken ; for the Earl
having received private intimation of his design, hid himself
and his forces in a wood by which the English were to
march, and when they were come to a certain place, the
Welsh of a sudden gave a great shout, and leaping out of
the place in which they had concealed themselves, they fell
upon the English, who were unprovided, and putting their
whole army to flight, they slew an infinite number both of
the English and their auxiliaries. John of Monmouth
himself niade his escape by flight ; but the Earl Marshal

entering

HISTORY OF WALES. 229

entering his country, destroyed it by fire and sword; and
what added to the misery of the English, Prince Lhewelyn,
in the week after Epiphany, joining the Earl Marshal, made
an incursion into the king's territories, destroying all before
them, from the confines of Wales to Shrewsbury,* a great
part of which they laid in ashes. King Henry was during
these transactions with the Bishop of Winchester at Glou-
cester, and for want of sufficient power or courage to
confront the enemy, durst not take the field; of which
being at length perfectly ashamed, he removed to Win-
chester, leaving the marches exposed to the mercy of the
enemy. There being now no apprehension of attack from
the English, the Earl of Pembroke, by the counsel of
Geoffrey de Marisco, transported his army into Ireland,
thinking to obtain a conquest in that kingdom ; but in the
first encounter with the Irish, he was unfortunately slain
through the treachery of his own men :. and so his estate
and title descended to his brother Gilbert.

King Henry, finding it impracticable to force the Welsh
to a submission, and being in a great measure weary of
continual wars and incessant hostilities, thought it most
prudent to make some honourable agreement with the
Prince of Wales ; and therefore he deputed Edmund Arch-
bishop of Canterbury, the Bishops of Rochester, Coventry,
Lichfield, and Chester, to treat with Prince Lhewelyn
about a peace, f When the king .came to meet with them
on their return from this negociation, being at Woodstock,
he was informed of the death of the Earl of Pembroke,
which he took so much to heart that he shed tears, being
afflicted for the death of so great a person, who, as the
king openly declared, had not left his second in all his king-
dom. Going from thence to Gloucester, he met with the
archbishop and bishops, who delivered to him the form of
the treaty of peace with Prince Lhewelyn, which the latter
would not conclude but upon this condition :— That all the
English nobility who were confederated with him, and by
evil counsel were exiled, should be recalled and restored to
the king's favour. The Archbishop further acquainted his
Majesty with what difficulty he had brought the matter to
this conclusion, being sometimes forced to add threatenings
on the king's behalf, as also on behalf of his clergy ; to
which menaces the prince is said to have answered,— that
he bore more regard to the king's charity and piety than he
did fear of his arms or dread of his clergy. The king, who
was very desirous of a peace, readily consented to what the

prince
* Matthew Paris, p. 332. f Brady's History of England, vol. 1, p. 335.

230 HISTORY OF WALES.

prince required; and therefore he issued out his letters,
recalling all the nobles who were outlawed, or otherwise
exiled, requiring them to appear at Gloucester upon Sun-
day next before Ascension-day, where they should receive
their pardons, and have their estates restored to them,
which the king had taken into his own hands.

The peace being thus concluded betwixt the English and
Welsh, Prince Lhewelyn set his son Gruffydh at liberty,
whom, for his disobedient and restless humour, he had
detained in close prison for the space of six years.* About
the same time, Cadwalhon ap Maelgon, of Melienydh, de-
parted this life, who was soon followed by Owen, son of
Gruffydh ap Rhys, a person of great worth, and exceedingly
beloved, who was buried at Ystratflur by his brother Rhys.
A. D. 1235. The year following, died Owen ap Meredith ap Rotpert, of
(Cydewen; and not long after him, Madawc the son of
Gruffydh Maelor, Lord of Bromfield, Chirk, and Yale,
who was buried at the abbey of Lhan Egwest, or Valle
Crucis, which he had built, leaving issue one son called
Gruffydh, who succeeded into the possession of all these
Jordships.f A short time after, Gilbert Earl of Pembroke
got by treachery Marchen castle, which belonged to Morgan
ap Howel, and fortified the same very strongly, for fear of
Prince Lhewelyn. The next spring Joan, King John's
daughter, and Princess of Wales, departed this life, and
was buried, according to her own desire, upon the sea^
shore, at a place called Lhanfaes, in the isle of Anglesey ;
where the Prince, in memory of her, afterwards founded a
religious house for the order of mendicant. friars.J About
the same time also died John Scot, Earl of Chester, with-
out any issue, upon which account the king seized that
earldom into his own hands. Hugh Lupus was the first
that enjoyed this honour, who coming over to England with
the Conqueror, was by him created Earl of Chester and
Sword-bearer of England; ffabendum et tenendum dictum
comitatum Cestriee, sibi et hceredibus suis9 ita libere ad
gladiu?n, si$ut ip$e rex totam tenebat Anglican ad coror
nam : To have and to hold the said county of Chester to
him and his heirs, by right of the sword, as freely and
securely as the king held the realm of England in the right

of

* Welsh Chron. p. 292. — We are not acquainted with the nature of the offence by
which Gruffydd had again incurred his father's displeasure. But there was a rigour
interwoven into the destiny of this gallant prince, which discoloured the whole tenor pf
his life, and has marked him the child of adversity.

f Welsh Chn.n.'p 293

\ A testimony of respect to her memory, which renders at least doubtful the criminal
part of her conduct; and may, in some degree, take away the stain which history has
cast upun her fa/ne.-— Welsh Chron. p. 293.— See note in History of Gwedir family.

HISTORY OF WALES. 231

of the crown. After five descents, Randolph Bohun came
to be Earl of Chester, who was uncle to this John, the last
Earl. This Randolph had several encounters with Prince
Lhewelyn, and was in continual warfare against him ; but
once more particularly meeting with the prince, and being
sensible of his inability to withstand him, he was obliged to
retire for refuge to the castle of Ruddlan, which the prince
immediately besieged. Randolph, perceiving himself to be
in danger, sent to Roger Lacy, constable of Chester, re-
qoesting him to raise what strength he possibly coold and
come to his assistance in this extremity ; upon which Lacy
called to him all his friends, and desired them to make all
the endeavours in their power to rescue the Earl from that
imminent danger which now threatened him : on this re-
quest, Ralph Dutton, son-in-law of Lacy, a valiant youth,
assembled together all the players and musicians, and such
others as then, being fair- time, had met to make merry,
and presenting them to the constable, he forthwith marched
to Ruddlan, raised the siege, and delivered the Earl from
his perilous situation. Tn recompence for this service, the
Earl granted to the constable several freedoms and privi-
leges; and to Dutton the ruling and ordering all players
and musicians within the said county, to be enjoyed by him
and by his heirs for ever.

In the year 1238, Prince Lheweiyn, being indisposed in A. D. 1238.
body, called onto him all the lords and barons of Wales to
Ystratflur,* where each of them swore to remain troe and
faithful sobjects, and did homage to David his son, whom
he had named to socceed him.t Matthew ParisJ writes,
that Prince Lhewelyn being impotent by reason of a palsy,
and sore disquieted by his son Gruffydh, sent ambassadors
to the king of England, signifying to him, that forasmojch
as he coold not expect to live long by reason of his age, he
was desiroos to lead the remainder of his days in peace and
tranquillity ; and therefore now purposed to subrnit himself
to the government and protection of the king, and would
hold his lands of him; promising withal, that whenever the
king should stand in need of his help, he would serve him
both with men and money to the utmost of his power.g
The bishops of Hereford and Chester were sent as mediators
in his behalf,]) though some of the nobility of Wales openly
and peremptorily withstood it, and upon no condition what-
soever would accept of such a peace.lf David being thus

declared

* Strata Florida,
•f Welsh Chron. p. 297.— British Ant. Reviv. by Vaughan of Hengwrt, p. 23.

J Matthew Paris, p. 369. § Welsh Chron. p. 297.

|| Brady's History of England, p. 567.— Matthew Paris, p. 369.

$ Welsh Chron. p. 298.— Matthew Paris, 369.— Matthew Westm. p. 110.

232 HISTORY OF WALES.

declared successor to the principality, began to molest his
brother Gruffydh, who, though his elder, was base-born,
and took from him Arustly, Ceri, Cyfeilioc, Mowdhwy,
Mocbnant, and Caereineon, and let him only enjoy the
Cantref of Lhyn ; but a little afterwards he dispossessed
him of all, and contrary to his oath to the bishop of Bangor,
in whose protection Gruffydh then remained, took him
prisoner, (having, upon promise that no violence should be
done to him, obtained an interview with him,) and sent him
A. D. 1240. to Cricieth castle.* Whilst these two brothers continued
to entertain an irreconcileable hatred one to another, their
father, Prince Lhewelyn ap lorwerth, to the great regret of
all the Welsh, departed this life, and was honourably in-
terred in the abbey of Conwey, after he had reigned fifty-six
years.f He was a prince of great courage, and had no less
prudence in contriving than boldness in executing any mar-
tial adventure; he was a great support to the Welsh, and
no less an annoyance to the English ; he made very consi-
derable conquests upon the borders, and extended the
frontiers of Wales much beyond their former limits.:}: He
had issue by his only wife Joan, daughter to King John of
England, one son called David, who afterwards succeeded
in the principality of Wales,§ and a daughter named Gladys,
who was married to Sir Ralph Mortimer.|| He had also a
base-born son, named Gruffydh, whom his brother David
kept a close prisoner to his dying day.

DAVID AP LHEWELYN.

JL RINCE Lhewelyn ap lorwerth being deceased, his
only legitimate son David, whom all the barons of Wales
had, as before stated, in his father's life-time, sworn to
obey, legally succeeded in the government; wherein being
actually confirmed, he went to the king of England to
Gloucester, and there did him homage for his principality ;
and all the barons, both English and Welsh, who held any
lands in Wales, in like manner did homage and fealty for
the same : but the English could not long refrain from their
wonted hostilities towards the Welsh ; and Gilbert Marshal,

taking

* A fortress situate on the verge of the sea in Caernarvonshire. — Welsh Chron. p. 208.
—•Matthew Paris, p. 470.

f Welsh Chron. p. 298.

I Mr. Warrington, at the close of this reign, says -" His talents and his virtues, with
the fortunate direction of both, have given to this prince the illustrious title of Lhcwdyn
the Great."

§ Brit. Ant. Reviv. by Vaughan of Hengwrt, p. 27.
|| Memoir of Guedir Family, p. 24.

HISTORY OF WALES. 233

taking advantage of the death of Lhewelyn before matters
were thoroughly settled, brought an army against the castle
of Aberteifi, which being delivered up to him, he fortified
with a strong garrison. Prince David was as yet too weak
to appear in the field; and the more so, because several
of his nobility and others did not bear true regard for him,
on account of the harsh treatment he had shown to his
brother Gruffydh, whom, for no just reason, he detained in
close custody : but above the rest, Richard bishop of Ban-
gor expressed himself strongly to the prince, and finding
that he had violated the promise that he had made to set
his brother at liberty, whom, under pretence of an amicable
consultation, he had fraudulently seized upon in the bishop's
presence, he without hesitation excommunicated him; and
then retiring to England, made an accusatory relation of the
whole matter to the king, wishing to have Gruffydh released
from prison before the rumour of an act so heinous should
reach the court of Rome, and thus reflect upon his Majesty's
reputation. The King thereupon sent to his nephew Prince
David, blaming him highly for such a treacherous action,
and for dealing so severely with his brother, and then
earnestly requested him to deliver Gruffydh out of custody,
both to save himself from perpetual condemnation, and that
he might obtain absolution from the severe sentence that
had been pronounced against him : but David absolutely
refused to comply with the king's desire, assuring him that
Wales would never enjoy peace as long as his brother
Gruffydh had his liberty.

Gruffydh being acquainted with his brother's resolution,
and thinking that thereby he had unquestionably displeased
the king of England, privately sent to King Henry, assuring
him, that if by force he would deliver him out of prison, he
would not only hold his lands for ever from him, but also
pay him the yearly acknowledgment of three hundred marks;
offering both to give his corporal oath, and deliver up suf-
ficient pledges, for the performance of it; and withal
offering to assist the king with all his power in bringing in
the rest of the Welsh to his subjection. Gruffydh ap
Madawc, Lord of Bromfield, also positively assured the
king, that in case he would lead an army into Wales, to
revenge the treachery and injurious practices of David, he
would give him all possible aid and assistance. King
Henry, besides this solemn invitation, had no slight pre-
tence for coming to Wales ; for Richard bishop of Bangor,
an impetuous man, had prosecuted the matter so warmly at
Rome, that the Pope also excommunicated David, which
excommunication being denounced against hirn, his lands

were

234 HISTORY OF WALES.

were nominally forfeited. The king being chiefly allured
by the promises of the Welsh in the behalf of Gruffydh,
levied a very formidable army to lead to Wales ; strictly
commanding, by proclamation, all the English who owed
him any martial service to repair armed to Gloucester by
the beginning of autumn. This rendezvous being accord-
ingly performed, the king came thither in person at the
time appointed, and having regulated his troops, and put
all matters in convenient order, he marched to Shrewsbury,
where he remained fifteen days to refresh his army.*
During his stay there several of the nobility became suitors
unto him on behalf of Gruffydh, whose condition they
desired he would commiserate ; among whom were, Ralph
Lord Mortimer, of Wigmore; Walter Clifford; Roger de
Monte Alto, Steward of Chester ; Maelgon ap Maelgon ;
Meredith ap Rotpert, Lord of Cydewen; Gruffydh ap
Madawc, of Bromfield ; Howel and Meredith, the sons of
Conan ap Owen Gwynedh; and Gruffydh ap Gwenwynwyn,
Lord of Powys.f These noblemen prevailed so far with
King Henry, that a league was concluded between him and
SenenaJ the wife of Gruffydh, and for the performance of
the articles thereof, the aforesaid noblemen offered to be
securities, and bound themselves by their several writings.
As if all things had now conspired together against Prince
David, several persons that had been at continual variance
and enmity among themselves to this time, were now, by
reason that they equally favoured Gruffydh's cause, made
friends : thus, Morgan ap Howel, lord of Cery, made his
reconciliation with Sir Ralph Mortimer, and his submission
to King Henry, in a very solemn manner. In the same
form several others of the nobility submitted to the king ;
as, Owen ap Howel, Maelgon ap Maelgon, Meredith ap
Meredith, Howel ap Cadwalhon, and Cadwalhon ap Howel.
David finding himself thus relinquished by the greatest
part of his nobility, and particularly by Gruffydh ap
Madawc, lord of Bromfield, whom he chiefly feared, by
reason of his great wisdom and power, and that he was
much esteemed by the king of England, could not easily
determine how to conduct himself in this perplexity of
affairs : but in the end, considering with himself what a
powerful army King Henry brought against him, and how
much he himself was weakened by the defection of his sub-
jects, he thought it most advisable to bow to the king, and
therefore with all speed sent him his submission. §

Prince

* Matthew Paris, p. 506. f Welsh Chron. p. 301. J Sina.

§ The approaches into Wales this summer had been rendered very easy by a long
drought, which having continued four months, had dried up the marshes.

HISTORY OF WALES. 235

Prince David having given a plenary submission to the
king, desired, that being his nephew, and the lawful heir
and successor of his father Prince Lhewelyn, he should
enjoy the principality of Wales, rather than GrufFydh, who
was illegitimate, and in. no wise related to the king ; as-
suring him further, that the war would never be at an end,
if he was set at liberty. King Henry knowing well the
truth of all this, and withal being assured that GrufFydh
was not only valiant himself, but had likewise very powerful
abettors and promoters of his cause, was very much inclined
to assent to David's request, and to prevent any farther
troubles, willingly granted it. Therefore David, in a while
after, sent his brother GrufFydh to the king, together with
the pledges promised for the performance of the articles
lately agreed upon ; wiio were all sent to the Tower of A. D. 1241.
London to be kept in safe custody ;* GrufFydh being
allowed a noble a-day to provide himself with necessaries. f
Shortly afterwards, David came himself to London, and
after he had done his homage, and sworn fealty to the King
of England, returned to Wales, being honourably and
peaceably dismissed. As soon as GrufFydh discovered
King Henry's intention, and that it was the least part of his
design to set him at liberty, having flatly denied the Bishop
of Bangor his request therein, he began to devise means
whereby he might make his escape out of the Tower ; and,
having one night deceived his keepers, he let himself down
from the top of the building, by a line which he had com-
posed out of the sheets and hangings of his room ; but they
being too weak to bear his weight, (as he was a heavy
corpulent person,) let him down headlong to the ground, by
the greatness of which fall he was crushed to pieces, and
expired immediately.^: King Henry being informed of this
unhappy accident, severely punished the officers for their
inexcusable neglect, and ordered that his son, who was
kept prisoner with him in the Tower, should be more closely
observed.

After this King Henry fortified the castle of Dyserth, in
Flintshire ; and for their past service, or rather to oblige
them to the like thereafter, granted to GrufFydh ap Gwen-
wynwyn all his estate in Powys, and to the sons of Conan

ap

* They were sent in the custody of Sir John Lexington, with orders that the prince
and his son Owen should be confined in the Tower. — Matthew Paris, p. 306. — Welsh
Chron. p. 307.

t Matthew Paris, p. 545.— Hollinshead, p. 228.

I Matthew Paris, p. 545. — Stowe's Chron. p. 186.— His son Owen, and Sina his wife,
who had shared in his tedious captivity, were the witnesses of this melancholy spectacle.
— Ibid. — Matthew Paris says, that he fell with such violence that his head and neck were
nearly driven into his body.

236 HISTORY OF WALES.

ap Owen Gwynedh their lands in Merioneth.* The next
A. D. 1242. year Maelgon Fychan fortified the castle of Garth gru°:yn,
John de Mynoc the castle of Buelht, and Roger Mortimer
that of Melyenyth : but all these preparations were of no
avail ; for early in the following year, King Henry came
with an army into Wales, and began to molest the Welsh,
and without any just pretence forcibly to seize upon their
lands and estates. Indeed, after the death of Gruffydh, he
was much inclined no longer to keep his promise to David,
and therefore intended to grant his eldest son Edward the
principality of Wales, whom he thought to oblige the
Welsh to obey. Prince David, understanding his design,
levied all his power for the defence of his just right ; yet
finding himself unable to withstand the army of the English,
purposed to effect that by policy which he could not attain
by force. He sent therefore to the Pope, complaining that
King Henry of England compelled him unjustly to hold his
lands of him, and that, without any legal pretence, he seized
the estates of the Welsh at his pleasure ; telling him further
that Prince Lhewelyn his father had left him and the
principality of Wales to the protection of the see of Rome,f
to which he was willing to pay the yearly sum of five
hundred marks,J obliging himself and his successors by
oath for the due performance of this payment. The Pope
(as may be supposed) gladly accepted the offer, and there-
upon gave commission to the two Abbots of Aberconwey
and Cymer, to absolve David from his oath of allegiance to
the King of England, and having enquired into the whole
state of the quarrel, to transmit an account of it to him.
The abbots, according to this their commission, directed a
very positive mandate to the King of England, who, ad-
miring the strange presumption and confidence of these
abbots, or more the insatiable avarice and greediness of the
Pope, sent also to Rome, and with a greater sum of money,
easily adjusted all matters, his Holiness being very desirous
to make the most of both parties.

Prince David, finding that the Pope minded his own
gain, more than to justify his complaints against the King of
England, thought it to no purpose to rely upon his faith,
but deemed it more advisable to vindicate himself by force
of arms. Having therefore gathered his forces together,
(being now reconciled to and followed by all the nobility of
Wales, excepting Gruflfydh ap Gwenwynwyn and Morgan
ap Howel, who also shortly after submitted to him,) he

drew

* Welsh Chron. p. 308. f Matthew Paris, p. 552.
f Matthew Wcstm. p. 139.— Matthew Paris, pp. 550, 573.— Brady, p. 592.

HISTORY OF WALES. 237

drew up his army to the marches, intending to be revenged
upon the Earls of Clare and Hereford, John de Monmouth,
Roger de Monte Alto, and others, who injured and
oppressed his people ; with whom he fought divers times,
and with various success : but in the Lent-time next year, A. D. 1245.
the Marchers and the Welsh met near Montgomery, between
whom was fought a very severe battle ; the governor of that
castle being general of the English, and having cunningly
placed a body of men in ambuscade, pretended, after some
short engagement, to flee, whom the Welsh daringly pursu-
ed, not thinking of any treachery : as soon, however, as they
were past the ambush, up rose an unexpected party, who,
falling upon the rear of the Welsh, put them in very great
disorder, and killed about three hundred men,* though not
without a considerable loss on their own side ; and among
the slain was a valiant knight called Hubert Fitz-Matthew.f
King Henry being weary of these perpetual skirmishes and
daily bickerings between the English and Welsh, thought
to put an end to the whole at one stroke ; and therefore
raised a great army of English and Gascoigns, and entered
North Wales, purposing to waste and destroy the country :
but before he had advanced very far, Prince David inter-
cepted him in a narrow pass, and so violently attacked his
forces, that a great number of his nobility and bravest
soldiers, and nearly all the Gascoigns, were slain. The
king, finding he could effect nothing against the Welsh,
invited over the Irish, who, landing in Anglesey, began to
pillage and waste the country ; but the inhabitants gather-
ing themselves together in a body, quickly forced them to
their ships : after which, King Henry having victualled and
manned all his castles, returned dissatisfied to England.

Concerning this expedition to Wales, and the continuance
of the English army therein, a certain person in the camp
wrote to this effect to his friends in England :f ( The king
( with his army is encamped at Gannock, and is busy in
' fortifying that place, sufficiently strong already, about
f which we lay in our tents, in watching, fasting, praying,
' and freezing. We watch for fear of the Welsh, who were
f used to come suddenly upon us in the night-time : we fast
' for want of provision, the halfpenny loaf being now risen
* and advanced to five pence: we pray that we may speedily
' return safe and scot-free home : and we freeze for want of
' winter garments, having but a thin linen shirt to keep us
' from the wind. There is a small arm of the sea under

'the

* Matthew Paris, p. 575.

t He was killed by a large stone rolled from the mountains.
J Matthew Paris, p. 508.

238 HISTORY OF WALES.

( the castle where we lie, which the tide reaches, by the
6 conveniency of which many ships bring us provision and
( victuals from Ireland and Chester : this arm lies betwixt
f us and Snowdon, where the Welsh are encamped, and is
' in breadth, when the tide is in, about a bow-shot. Now
' it happened, that upon the Monday before Michaelmas-

< day, an Irish vessel came up to the mouth of the haven
' with provision to be sold to our camp, which being negli-
6 gently looked to by the mariners, was upon the low ebb
' stranded on the other side of the castle, near the Welsh.
6 The enemy perceiving this, descended from the mountains

< and laid siege to the ship, which was fast upon the dry
( sands ; whereupon we detached in boats three hundred
6 Welsh of the borders of Cheshire and Shropshire, with
( some archers and armed men, to rescue the ship : but the
' Welsh, upon the approach of our men, withdrew them-
f selves to their usual retirements in the rocks and woods,
6 and were pursued for about two miles by our men afoot,
e who slew a great number of them : but in their return
* back, our soldiers being too covetous and greedy of
( plunder, among other sacrilegious and profane actions,
( spoiled the abbey of Aberconwey, and burnt all the books
( and other choice utensils belonging to it. The Welsh
f being distracted at these irreligious practices, got together
( in great number, and in a desperate manner setting upon
( the English, killing a great number of them, and following
6 the rest to the water-side, forced as many as could not
( make their escape into the boats, to commit themselves to
' the mercy of the waves. Those they took prisoners they
' thought to reserve for exchange ; but hearing how we put
f some of their captive nobility to death, they altered their
6 minds, and in a revengeful manner scattered their dila-
f cerated carcases along the surface of the water. In this
' conflict we lost a considerable number of our men, and
( chiefly those under the command of Richard Earl of Corn-
6 wal; as Sir Alan Buscell, Sir Adam de Maio, Sir Geflfry
' Estuemy, and one Raimond a Gascoign, with about a
' hundred common soldiers. In the mean time, Sir Walter
' Bisset stoutly defended the ship till midnight, when the
6 tide returned ; whereupon the Welsh, who assailed us on
( all sides, were forced to withdraw, being much concerned
e that we had so happily escaped their hands. The cargo
f of this ship was three hundred hogsheads of wine, with
( plenty of other provisions for the army, which at that time
' it stood in very great need of. The next morning, how-
' ever, when the sea was returned, the Welsh came merrily

' down

HISTORY OF WALES. 239

( down again to the ship, thinking to surprise our men ; but
6 as luck would have it, they had at full sea the night before
' relinquished the ship, and returned safe to the camp.
c The enemy missing our men, set upon the cargo of the
' ship, and carried away all the wine and other provisions;
' and then, when the sea began to flow, they put fire to the
' vessel and returned to the rest of the army. And thus we
' lay encamped in great misery and distress for want of
( necessaries, exposed to great and frequent dangers, and in
' great fear of the private assaults and sudden incursions of
' our enemies. Oftentimes we set upon and assailed the

* Welsh, and in one conflict we carried away a hundred

* head of cattle, which very triumphantly we conveyed to
( our camp : for the scarcity of provisions was then so great,
( that there remained but one hogshead of wine in the whole
( army ; a bushel of corn being sold for twenty shillings, a
' fed ox for three or four marks, and a hen for eight pence ;
' so that there happened a very lamentable mortality both of
' man and horse, for want of necessary sustenance.'*

The English army having undergone such miseries as are
here described, and King Henry, as is said, perceiving it
was in vain for him to continue any longer in Wales, where
he was sure to gain no great credit, he returned with his
army into England, being not very desirous to make another
expedition into Wales. Then all the nobility and barons of
Wales, and those that had favoured and maintained Gruf-
fydh's cause, were made friends and reconciled to Prince
David, to whom they vowed true and perpetual allegiance :f
but the Prince did not long survive this amity and agree-
ment made between him and his subjects, for falling sick
toward the beginning of this year, he died in March, at his A. D, 124(5,
palace in Aber, and was buried at Conway, leaving no issue
to succeed.:J: The only thing unpardonable in this prince,
was his over-jealousy and severity against his brother
GrufFydh, a person so well beloved of the Welsh, that upon
his account their affection was much cooled, and in some
entirely alienated from their prince. Thus much, however,
may be said for David, that GrufFydh was a valorous and an
aspiring man, and if set at liberty, would probably have

ejected

* Perhaps a reservation was made for a due supply of provisions for the castle of
Gannock (a name given by the English to the castle of Diganwy), which, it appears, was
.completely furnished with every necessary on the king's departure. In one of these
conflicts, the English having the advantage, they brought in triumph to their camp the
heads of nearly one hundred Welshmen.— Matthew Paris, p. 598.

f During these transactions, David the Prince, being sick and oppressed with cares,
frequently retired io his camp at Tintaiol, to refresh himself, and recover from the
fatigues of war.— Matthew Paris, p. 599.

% Matthew Paris, pp. 608, 610.

240 HISTORY OF WALES.

ejected him out of his principality ; which King Henry of
England too (who thought he might bring over David, a
milder man, to what terms he pleased,) was sensible of
when he would by no persuasion dismiss him from custody
in the Tower of London. This occasioned all the disturb-
ances that happened in his time, the Welsh themselves, for
the love they bore to Gruffydh, inviting the King of
England to come to invade their country, and to correct the
unnatural enmity their prince expressed to his brother : but
when all differences were over, the King of England being
returned with his army in disgrace, and the prince and his
nobility reconciled, the Welsh might have expected a very
happy time of it, had not death taken the Prince away,
before he had well known what a peaceful reign was.*

LHEWELYN AP GRUFFYDH.

JL RINCE David being dead, the principality of North
Wales legally descended to Sir Ralph Mortimer, in right of
his wife Gladys, daughter to Lhewelyn ap lorwerth : but
the Welsh nobility being assembled together for the elect-
ing and nominating a successor, thought it by no means
advisable to admit a stranger to the crown, though his title
was ever so lawful; and especially an Englishman, by
whose obligations to the crown of England, they must of
necessity expect to become subjects, or rather slaves to the
English government. Wherefore they unanimously agreed
to set up Lhewelyn and Owen Goch, the sons of Gruffydh,
a base son of Lhewelyn ap lorwerth, and brother to Prince
David ;f who being sent for, and appearing before the
assembly, all the nobles and barons then present, did them
homage, and received them for their sovereigns : but as soon
as the King of England heard of the death of the Prince of
Wales, he thought, the country being in an unsettled and
wavering condition, he might effect great matters there;
and, therefore, he sent one Nicholas de Miles to South
Wales, with the title of Justice of that country, with whom
he joined in commission Meredith ap Rhys Gryc, and

Meredith

* We have now seen the Welsh nation subject to the most distant extremes of fortune.
Their annals, in rapid succession, are marked with striking vicissitudes. Influenced by
sudden, and often by hidden springs, we have seen them, by uniting their strength, and
exciting its force, rising up to the height of prosperity ; and then, from causes which
were equally capricious, falling in a moment into disunion and vassalage.

f These young princes were the sons of GrufFydh ap Llewelyn, who some years before
had been killed by attempting to escape out of the Tower of London. — Welsh Chron.
p. 314.

HISTORY OF WALES. 241

Meredith ap Owen ap Gruflfydh, to eject and disinherit
Maelgon Fychan of all his lands and estate in South Wales,
The like injurious practices were committed against Howel
ap Meredith, who was forcibly robbed of all his estate in
Glamorgan by the Earl of Clare. These unreasonable ex-^
tortions being insupportable, Maelgon and Howel made
known their grievances to the Princes of North Wales, de-
siring their succour and assistance for the recovery of their
lawful inheritance from the encroachments of the English :
but the King of England, understanding their design, led
his army into Wales ; upon whose arrival, the Welsh with-
drew themselves to Snowdon hills, where they so wearied
theEnglish army, that the king, finding he could do no good>
after some stay there, returned to England. Within a while
after, Ralph Mortimer, the husband of Gladys Dhu, died ;
leaving his whole estate, and with it a lawful title to the
principality of North Wales, to his son Sir Roger Mortimer.*

The next year nothing memorable passed between the A. D. 1247 .
English and the Welsh, only the dismal effects of the last
year's expedition were not worn off; the ground being in-
capable of cultivation, and the cattle being in great measure
destroyed by the English, occasioned great poverty and
want in the country :f but the greatest calamity befel the
bishops ; St. Asaph and Bangor being destroyed and burnt
by the English, the bishops thereof were reduced to such an
extremity, as to get their subsistence by other men's charity ;
the bishop of St. David's at this time died, and the bishop
of Llandaft" had the misfortune to become blind. In the
bishoprick of St. David's succeeded Thomas^ surnamed
Wallensis, by reason that he was born in Wales, who think- ,
ing it incumbent upon him to benefit his own country as far
as lay in his power, desired to be advanced from the arch-
deaconry of Lincoln to that see: which the king easily
granted, and confirmed him in it. The next summer proved 1248.
somewhat more favourable to the Welsh ; Rhys Fychan,
son of Rhys Mechyl, won from the English the castle of
Carrec-Cynnen, which his unkind mother, out of malice, or
some ill opinion entertained of him, had some time before
privately delivered up to them j and about the same time

the
R

* Oppressed by the hated laws of England, the Welsh at this period had neither
opportunity nor spirit to carry on commerce, nor to cultivate their land, and in conse-
quence were perishing by famine. They were likewise deprived of the usual pasturage
for their cattle ; and to recite the words of an old writer, expressive of their bondage,
" the harp of the churchman is changed info sorrow and lamentations : the glory of
their proud and ancient nobility is faded away"

f Matthew Paris, p. 739.

242 HISTORY OF WALES.

the body of Gruffydh ap Lhewelyn, base son of Lhewelyn
ap lorwerth, was recovered from the King of England, by
the earnest solicitations of the abbots of Conway and Ystrat-
flur ; who, conveying it to Conway, bestowed upon it a very
pompous and honourable interment.*

A.D. 1255. After this, the affairs of the Welsh proceeded peaceably
for a considerable time, and the country had .sufficient
opportunity to recover its former state of plenty ; but
eventually, fulfilling the proverb that plenty begets war ;
they began, for want of a foreign enemy, to quarrel among
themselves. Owen was too arrogant and ambitious to be
satisfied with half the principality, and therefore would
endeavour to obtain the whole ; wherein fortune so far de-
ceived him, that he lost his own portion of it, as will after-
wards appear. The better to encompass his design, he, by
artful insinuations, persuaded David his younger brother to
espouse his cause ; and they with joint interest levied to the
extent of their power, with intention to dethrone their elder
brother Lhewelyn ; but that was not an easy matter ; for
Lhewelyn was prepared to receive them, and with a power-
ful army met them in the field, with a determination to
venture all upon the fortune of a battle. It was strange and
grievous to behold this unnatural civil war ; and the more
grievous now, because it so manifestly lessened the power of
the Welsh to withstand the incursions of the English, who
were much pleased with so favourable an opportunity to
attack them ; but they were too far engaged to consider of
future inconveniencies, and a trial of war they would have,
though the English were ready to fall upon* both armies.
The battle commenced with much slaughter on both sides,
and which was likely to conquer was not immediately dis-
covered ; but at length Owen began to give way, and in the
end was overthrown, himself and his brother David being
taken prisoners.! Lhewelyn, though he had sufficient
reason, would not put his brothers to death ; but, commit-
ting them into close prison, seized all their estates into his
own hands, and so enjoyed the whole principality of Wales.
The English, seeing the Welsh were thus oppressing and
destroying one another, thought they had full license to deal
with them as they pleased ; and thereupon began to exercise
every description of wrong and injustice against them ; inso-
1256. much that the next year, all the lords of Wales came in a
body to Prince Lhewelyn, and declared their grievances,
how unmercifully Prince Edward (whom his father had sent

to

* Rymer, p. 443.— Welsh Chron. p. 319.
t Welsh Chron. p. 319.— Annales Burton, p. 386.

HISTORY OF WALES. 243

to Wales) and others of the nobility of England dealt with
them, for without any colour of justice they seized upon
their estates, without any opportunity for appeal, and if
they in person offended in the least, they were punished to
the utmost extremity. In fine, they solemnly declared that
they preferred to die honourably in the field, rather than be
so unmercifully enslaved to the will artd pleasure of strangers.
Prince Lhewelyn was riot uninformed as to all this; and
now having clearly discovered the intent and inclination of
his subjects* Was resolved to effect, if possible, the expulsion
of the English, and to be revenged upon them for their most
cruel and almost inhuman practices towards the Welsh,
Having therefore drawn all his power together, being ac-
companied by Meredith ap RhysGryc, he in the space of one
week recovered out of the hands of the English all the inland
country of North Wales, and then all Merionyth, with such
lands as Prince Edward had usurped in Cardigan, which he
bestowed upon Meredith the son of Owen ap Gruftydh.
Having also forced Rhys Fychan out of Buelht, he conferred
it upon Meredith ap Rhys ; and in like manner distributed
all the lands which he recovered among his nobles; re-
serving nothing to his own use, excepting Gwerthryneon3
the estate of Sir Roger Mortimer.* The next summer he A. D. 1257.
entered into Powys^f and made war against Gruffydh ap
Gwenwynwyn, (who always had taken part with and owned
subjection to the King of England,) whom he completely
overcame, bringing under his authority all his country, ex-
cepting the castle of Pool, some small part of Caereineon^
and the country lying upon the banks of the Severn.

Rhys Fychan was not satisfied with the loss of Buelht,
and therefore was resolved to try to recover it; to which
end, he went to the King of England, of whom he obtained
a very strong army, commanded by one Stephen Bacon,
which being sent by sea, landed at Caermardhyn in the
Whitsun-week. From thence the English marched to
Dynefawr, and laid siege to the castle, which was valiantly
defended until Lhewelyn's army came to their relief Upon
the arrival of the Welsh, the English withdrew from before
the castle, and put themselves in a position of battle, which
the Welsh perceiving, they made all haste to meet and
oppose them : whereupon there ensued a terrible engage-
ment, which lasted a very long time ; this being, for number
of men, the greatest battle that had been fought between the
English and the Welsh : but the victory favoured the Welsh,

the
R 2
* Welsh Chron. p. 330. f Matthew Paris, p. 806.

244 HISTORY OF WALES.

the Englishmen being at length forced to fly, having lost
above two thousand men, besides several barons and knights
who were taken prisoners. After this, the prince's army
passed to Dyfed, where, having burnt all the country, and
destroyed the castles of Abercorran, Lhanstephan, Maen-
clochoc, and Arberth, with all the towns thereunto belong-
ing, they returned to North Wales with much spoil.* As
soon as he was arrived in North Wales, great complaints
were exhibited to Prince Lhewelyn against Geoffrey
Langley,f lieutenant to Edward Earl of Chester, who,
without any regard to equity, most wrongfully oppressed
the inhabitants of Wales under his jurisdiction : whereupon
the prince, to punish the master for the servant's fault,
entered with some part of his army into the earl's estate,
and burnt and destroyed all his country on both sides the
river Dee to the gates of Chester.! Edward had no power
at the time to oppose him, but being resolved to be revenged
upon the Welsh the first opportunity, he desired aid of his
uncle, then chosen King of the Romans, who sent him a
strong detachment of troops, with which he purposed to
give Prince Lhewelyn battle : finding him, however, too
strong, he thought it more adviseable to desist from hostility,
the prince's army consisting of ten thousand experienced
men, who were obliged by oath rather all to die in the field
than to suffer the English to gain any advantage over the
Welsh : but Gruffydh ap Madoc Maelor, Lord of Dinas
Bran,§ a person of notorious reputation for injustice and
oppression, basely forsook the Welsh his countrymen, and
with all his forces went over to the Earl of Chester.
A.D. 1258. The next year Prince Lhewelyn passed to South Wales,
and seized into his hands the land of Cemaes, and having
reconciled the difference between Rhys Gryg and Rhys
Fychan, he won the castle of Trefdraeth, with the whole
country of Rhos, excepting Haverford. Then he marched
in an hostile manner towards Glamorgan, and rased to the
ground the castle of Lhangymwch ; and thence returning to
North Wales, he met by the way with Edward Earl of
Chester, whom he forced to return precipitately. Before,
however, he concluded this expedition, he would be revenged
upon that ungrateful fugitive Gruffydh ap Madoc Maelor,
and thereupon passing through Bromfield, he laid waste the

whole

* Welsh Chron. pp. 320, 322.

t Brady, pp. 721, 722. — It is probable he succeeded Alan de Zouch, who had brought
into England much treasure in carts out of Wales.

J Chron. of Thomas Wyke, p. 50.— Matthew Paris, pp. 805, 806, 810.
§ Near Llangollen, in Denbighshire.— Welsh Chron. p, 255,

HISTORY OF WALES. 245

whole country.* Upon this the Kings of England and
Scotland sent to Lhewelyn, requesting him to cease from
hostility, and from thus unmercifully wasting, and forcibly
taking away other men's estates. The prince was not over
willing to hearken to their request ; on the contrary, finding
the time of the year very seasonable for action against the
English, he divided his army into two divisions, each of
them consisting of 1500 foot and 500 horse, with which he
purposed to enlarge his conquest. Edward Earl of Chester,
to prevent the blow which so imminently hung over his
head, sent over to Ireland for succours j of whose coming
Prince Lhewelyn being certified, he manned a fleet to
intercept them, which meeting with the Irish at sea, after a
smart attack forced them to return back with loss. King
Henry, being informed of the miscarriage of the Irish,
resolved to come in person against the Welsh, and having
drawn together the whole strength of England, from St.
Michael's Mount in Cornwall to the river Tweed, marched
with his son Edward in great indignation to North Wales,
and without any opposition advanced as far as Diganwy :f
but the prince had obstructed his farther progress and pre-
vented him making any long stay in Wales, by previously
causing all kinds of provision and forage to be carried over
the river, and then securing the strait and narrow passages
whereby the English might have got farther into the coun-
try ; in consequence of which the army was in a short time
so greatly fatigued, that the king for want of necessary
subsistence was forced to retire in haste to England with
considerable loss.

The prince, after that, sending for all the forces in South
Wales, came to the marches, where Gruffydh Lord of
Bromfield, finding that the King of England was not able to
defend his estate, yielded himself up,J and then passing to

Powys.

* Matthew Paris, p. 80.6. f Welsh Chron. p. 321.

J The late events had given a fortunate turn to affairs. The present prosperity of the
Welsh, the spoils they had taken from the enemy, the general confederacy which had been
lately renewed, and the return of Gruffydh ap Madoc to his allegiance, had diffused
through every bosom the hopes of better days. To raise these hopes into pious con-
fidence, Lhewelyn addressed his followers in this consolatory and animating language :—
" Thus far," said he, " the Lord God of Hosts hath helped 'us j for it must appear to all
" that the advantages we have obtained are not to be ascribed to our own strength, but
" to the favour of God, who can as easily save by few as by many. How should we, a
" poor, weak, and unwarlike people, compared with the English, dare to contend with so
" mighty a power, if God did not patronise our cause ? His eye has seen our affliction ;
" not only those injuries we have suffered from Geoffrey de Langley, but those also
« which we have received from other cruel instruments of Henry, and of Edward. From
" this moment our all is at stake, if we fall into the hands of the enemy we are to expect no
" mercy. Let us then stand firm to each other. It is our union alone which can render
" us invincible. You see in what manner the King of England treats his own subjects, how

"he

246 HISTORY OF WALES.

Powys, the prince banished Gruflfydh ap Gwenwynwyn, and
took all the lands of that country into his own hands. Pro-
ceeding farther, he was encountered with by Gilbert de
Clare Earl of Gloucester, who with a chosen body of
English forces gave him battle : but Lhewelyn's army,
exceeding them both in number and courage, they easily
vanquished and overcame the English, and the victory being
quickly obtained, the prince immediately reduced to his
power all the castles belonging to the Earl of Gloucester.
King Henry, hearing of the Earl's overthrow, was much
concerned at the loss of so many brave soldiers, in whose
valour and experience he had always put great confidence,
and therefore, to revenge their deaths, he again resolved to
march against the Welsh. Having called his forces
together, and received supplies from Gascoign and Ireland,
he came to Wales, but not daring to venture far into the
country, for fear of being forced to make another igno-
minious retreat, he contented himself with destroying the
corn near the borders, it being harvest time, and so returned
to England. At this time, however, Lord James Audley,
whose daughter was married to Gruflfydh Lord of Brom-
field, did more mischief and injury to the Welsh ; for,
having brought over a great number of horsemen from
Germany to serve against the Welsh, they were so terrified
by the unusual large size of the horses, and the unac-
customed manner of fighting used by the Germans, that in the
first encounter the Welsh were easily overcome : but, intend-
ing to revenge this disgrace, and withal being better
acquainted with their method of arms, the Welsh in a
short time after made inroads into the Lord Audley 's lands,
where the Germans immediately attacked them, and pursued
them tq certain narrow passages, to which the WTelsh
designedly made their retreat. The Germans, thinking
they had entirely driven the Welsh away, returned care-
lessly back, but being suddenly attacked, when they had no
thought of an enemy being behind them, they were nearly
all slain by the Welsh that had thus rallied. This year a
very great scarcity of oxen and horses happened in
England, whereof several thousands yearly were supplied

out

" he seizes their estates, impoverishes their families, and alienates their minds. Will he
" then spare us, after all the provocations we have given him, and the farther acts of
" hostility and revenge which we meditate against him? No ; it is evidently his intention
" to blot out our name from under the face of heaven. Is it not better then at once to
" die, and go to God, than to live for a time at the capricious will of another, and at last
" to suffer some ignominious death assigned us by an insulting enemy ?" Animated by
this oration, the Welsh infested the English borders with incessant inroads ; in the course
of their ravages, by fire, by the sword, and by plunder, they rendered the frontier a scene
of desolation.

HISTORY OF WALES. 247

out of Wales ; in consequence of which, the marches were
completely despoiled of all their breed, and not so much as
a beast was to be seen in all the borders.

The next spring all the nobility of Wales assembled A. D. 1259.
together and took their mutual oaths to defend their coun-
try even to death, against the oppressive invasions of the
English, and not to relinquish and forsake one another
under the penalties of perjury : but Meredith ap Rhys of
South Wales violated this agreement, and put himself into
the service of the King of England. King Henry was now
prepared to attack the Welsh, and for this purpose he
summoned a parliament, wherein he proposed to raise a
subsidy towards the conquest of Wales, being not able of
himself to bear the expenses of this war, in consequence of
several losses he had already received, the country of
Pembroke being lately destroyed and taken by the Welsh,
where they found plenty of salt, of which article they were,
at that time, in great need.* William de Valentia accused
the Earls of Leicester and Gloucester as the authors of the
intended war, and quite broke all their measures, so that the
king was forced to prorogue the parliament for a time
without any grant of a subsidy : but in a short time after, it
sat at Oxford, where King Henry and Edward his son took
a solemn oath to observe the laws and statutes of the realm,
and the same being tendered to Guy and William, the king's
brothers, and to Henry, son to the King of Almain, and to
Earl Warren, they refused to take it, and departed. In
this parliament the lords of Wales openly offered to be tried
by the laws for any offence they had unjustly committed
against the king, which was chiefly opposed by Edward,
who caused one Patrick de Canton (to whom the lordship of
Cydwely was given, in case he could win and keep the
same) to be sent to Caermardhyn as lieutenant for the king,
with whom Meredith ap Rhys was joined in commission.
Being arrived at Caermardhyn, Patrick sent to the prince,
to desire him to appoint commissioners to treat with hini
concerning a peace, which he consented to, and, without any
suspicion of treachery, sent Meredith ap Owen and Rhys
ap Rhys to Emlyn, to conclude the same if possible: but
Patrick, meaning no such thing, laid an ambuscade for the
Welsh, who coming unsuspectingly forward, were by the
way villainously attacked by the English, and a great many
were slain ; those' that happily escaped, however, raised an
alarm in the country, and immediately gave chase to Patrick

and

* In consequence of their brine works having been destroyed by King Henry .-
Matthew Paris, p. 819.

248 HISTORY OF WALES.

and his accomplices, who being at length overtaken, were
almost all put to the sword. Prince Lhewelyn was, not-
withstanding, wholly bent upon a peace, and not only
desired it, but was willing to purchase it for a sum of
money, for which purpose he offered to give the king 4000
marks, to his son 300, and 200 to the queen, which the
king utterly refused, replying, That it was not a sufficient
recompense for all the damages he had suffered by the
Welsh. Matthew of Westminster reports, that about
Michaelmas this year, the Bishop of Bangor was com-
missioned by the prince and nobility of Wales to treat with
the King of England about a peace, and to offer him 16,000
pounds for the same, upon these conditions, that, according
to their ancient custom, the Welsh should have all causes
tried and determined at Chester, and that they should
freely enjoy the laws and customs of their own country ; but
what was the result of this treaty, my author does not
mention.

A. D. 1260. There being no hope of a peace, Prince Lhewelyn early
next year appeared in the field, and passed to South Wales,
and first attacked Sir Roger Mortimer, who, contrary to his
oath, supported the King of England in his quarrel.
Having forcibly dispossessed him of all Buelht, and with-
out any opposition taken the castle, where was found a

1261. plentiful magazine, he marched through all South Wales,
confirming his conquest, and afterwards returned to his
palace at Aber, between Bangor and Conway. The year

1262. following, Owen ap Meredith Lord of Cydewen died : but

1263. the next summer was somewhat more noted for action, as a
party of Prince Lhewelyn's men took by surprise the castle
of Melienyth, belonging to Sir Roger Mortimer, and
having put the other part of the garrison to the sword, they
took Howel ap Meyric, the governor, with his wife and
children, prisoners ; and after that the castle was demolished
by the prince's order. Sir Roger Mortimer, hearing of
this, with a great body of lords and knights came to
Melienyth, where Prince Lhewelyn met him ; but Sir
Roger, not daring to hazard a battle, planted himself within
the ruins, and finding his force could be of no avail, desired
leave of the prince to retire peaceably. The Prince, upon
the account of relation and near consanguinity betwixt them,
and withal because he would not be so mean spirited as to
fall upon an enemy that had no power to resist him, let him
safely depart with his forces, and then passed on himself to
Brecknock, at the request of the people of that country, who
swore fidelity unto him, after which he returned to North

Wales :

HISTORY OF WALES. 249

Wales : and now being confederate with the barons against
King Henry, he was resolved to do something to the injury
of the English ; he therefore invaded the earldom of
Chester, and destroyed the castles of Diganwy and
Diserth belonging to Edward, who came thither, but was
unable to prevent the Welsh committing the injury they
intended. The next year John Strange, junior, constable of A. D. 1264.
Montgomery, with a great number of marchers, came a little
before Easter by night, through Ceri to Cydewen, intending
to surprise the castle, which when the people of the country
understood, they gathered together, and attacking the forces
of Strange, slew two hundred of his men, but he himself
with a few of his troops got safely back.

Within a short time after, the marchers and the Welsh
met again near a place called Clun, where a warm engage-
ment happened between them, in which the Welsh were
worsted, and had a great number of their men slain. After
this, nothing remarkable fell out for a considerable time,
unless it were, that David, being released out of prison by
Prince Lhewelyn his brother, most ungratefully forsook him,
and with all his power leagued with his enemies the
English ; also Gruffydh ap Gwenwynwyn, having taken the
castle of Mold, rased it to the ground. During this com-
paratively quiet and inactive interval in Wales, Meredith
ap Owen, the main support and defender of South Wales,
died, to the great disadvantage of the affairs of that country:
and now indeed, the Welsh were likely to be made sensible 1268.
of the loss of so considerable a person, for King Henry
resolved once more to lead an army into Wales, and to try
if he could have better success than he had hitherto
obtained against the Welsh : but when he was prepared to
undertake this expedition, Ottobonus, Pope Clement's
legate in England, interposed and procured a peace, which
was concluded upon at the castle of Montgomery,* wherein
it was agreed, that Prince Lhewelyn should give the king
thirtyf thousand marks, and the king was to grant the
prince a charter, from thenceforth to receive homage and
fealty of all the nobility and barons of Wales, excepting
one, so that they could hold their lands of no other but
himself, and from thenceforward he was to be lawfully stiled
Prince of Wales. This charter being ratified and confirmed,
as well by the authority of the pope, as by the king's seal,
Prince Lhewelyn desisted from any farther acts of hostility,
and punctually observed all the articles of agreement

between

* Welsh Chron. p. 327- *

t Matthew Paris, p. 875, says £32,000.— Welsh Chron. p. 327.

250 HISTORY OF WALES.

between him and King Henry, so that no outrage between
the English and Welsh occurred during the remainder of
this king's reign. Within that space, died Grono ap
Ednyfed Fychan, one of the chief lords of the prince's
council, and shortly after him Gruffydh Lord of Bromfield,
who lies buried at Valle Crucis.*

A. D. 1272. The death of King Henry, however, put an end to the
observation of the peace betwixt the English and Welsh, for
that event took place on the sixteenth of November this year,
and he left this kingdom to his son Edward. Prince Ed-
ward was then in the Holy Land, actively engaged against
those enemies of Christianity, the Turks, where he had
already continued above a year ; but being informed of his
father's death, and that in his absence he was proclaimed
King of England, he made all haste to return to undergo the
solemnity of coronation : but what by the tediousness of the
journey, and what by being honourably detained at princes'
courts in his way, it was two years before he could get into
England, and then upon the fifteenth of August, in the year
1274, he was crowned at Westminster. Prince Lhewelyn
was summoned to attend at his coronation, but he flatly
refused to appear,f unless upon sure terms of safe conduct ;
for, having offended several of the English nobility, he
could not in safety pass through their country without the
danger of exposing his person to the inveterate malice and
implacable revenge of some of them : and, therefore, unless
the king's brother, the Earl of Gloucester, and Robert
Burnell Lord Chief Justice of England,:}: were delivered up
as pledges for his safe conduct, he would not come to do his
homage and fealty at the coronation, according to the writ
directed to him. Indeed, seeing that King Edward had
broken the peace lately concluded upon before the Pope's
legate, and received and honourably entertained such noble-
men of Wales, as for their disloyalty were banished by
Prince Lhewelyn, and from whom he feared some treachery,
there was no reason that the prince should pay him any
subjection, as by this breach of the peace he was exempted

from

* Welsh Chron. p. 327.

•f- It appears that Lhewelyn was summoned by King Edward to repair to different
places-, and it is highly probable, during this time, that the following remarkable
circumstance took place. Edward being at Aust Ferry on the Severn, and knowing that
the Prince of Wales was on the opposite side, sent him an invitation to come over the
river, that they might confer together and settle some matters of dispute. This being
refused by Lhewelyn, King Edward threw himself into a boat, and crossed over to the
prince •, who, struck with the gallantry of the action, leaped into the water to receive him,
telling the king at the same time that his humility had conquered his own pride, and that
his wisdom had triumphed over his own folly.

J Rymer, p. 41. J. Rossi, Ant. Warw. p. 102.

HISTORY OF WALES.

from all homage. However, Prince Lhewelyn, to show that
it was not out of any stubbornness or disrespect, to the King
of England, that he refused to come, sent up his reasons by
the Abbots of Ystratflur and Conway to Robert Kilwarby
Archbishop of Canterbury, and the rest of the bishops then
sitting in convocation in the New Temple at London, which
were to this effect : —

" To the Most Reverend Fathers in God, Robert, Arch-
" bishop of Canterbury and Metropolitan of all Eng-
" land, the Archbishop of York, arid the rest of the
" Bishops in Convocation; Lhewelyn, Prince of Wales
" and Lord of Sncwdon, sendeth greeting:

" WE would have your Lordships to understand, that
" whereas formerly most terrible and incessant wars were
" continually managed betwixt Henry King of England and
" Ourself; the same were at last composed, and all matters
" of differences were adjusted by the means of his Excel-
" lency Cardinal Ottobonus, the Pope's legate, who having
" drawn the articles and conditions of the peace agreed
" upon, they were signed and swore to, not only by the
" king, but also the prince his son, now king of England.
" Among these articles were comprehended, that We and
<f Our successors should hold of the king and his successor,
" the principality of Wales, so that all the Welsh lords, one
" baron excepted, should hold their baronies and estates in
te capite of Us, and should pay their homage and fealty for
( ( the same to Us ; We in like manner doing homage to the
" king of England and his successors. And besides, that
" the king and his successors should never offer to receive
" and entertain any of Our enemies, nor any such of Our
(f own subjects as were lawfully banished and excluded Our
' f dominions of Wales, nor by any means defend and uphold
" such against Us. Contrary to which articles, King
" Edward has forcibly seized upon the estates of certain
" barons of Wales, which they and their ancestors have
f( been immemorably possessed of, and detains a barony
" which by the form of peace should have been delivered
" to us ; and moreover, has hitherto entertained David ap
tf Gruffydh Our brother, and Gruffydh ap Gwenwynwyn,
'( with several other of Our enemies who are outlaws and
" fugitives of Our country, and though We have often
" exhibited Our grievances and complaints against them,
" for destroying and pillaging Our country, yet We could
" never obtain of the king any relief or redress for the
<e several wrongs and injuries We received at their hands;

" but

252 HISTORY OF WALES.

C( but on the contrary they still persist to commit wastes
" and other outrages in Our dominions. And for all this,
" he summons Us to do him homage at a place which is
" altogether dangerous to Our person, where Our inveterate
" enemies, and which is worse, Our own unnatural subjects,
" bear the greatest sway and respect with the king. And
" though We have alleged several reasons to the king and
<f his council, why the place by him assigned is not safe
" and indifferent for Us to come, and desire him to appoint
" another, whereto we might with more safety resort, or
" else that he would send commissioners to receive Our
" oath and homage, till he could more opportunely receive
(f them in person ; yet he would not assent to Our just and
" reasonable request, nor be satisfied with the reasons We
(f exhibited for Our non-appearance. Therefore We desire
" your lordships earnestly to weigh the dismal effects that
" will happen to the subjects both of England and Wales
" upon the breach of the articles of peace, and that you
" would be pleased to inform the king of the sad conse-
" quence of another war, which can no way be prevented
" but by using Us according to the conditions of the former
<f peace, which, for Our part, We will in no measure trans-
" gress. But if the king will not hearken to your counsel,
f( We hope that you will hold Us excused, if the nation be
" disquieted and troubled thereupon, which as much as in
" Us lieth We endeavour to prevent."

King Edward would not admit of any excuse, nor hearken
to any manner of reason in the case, but was exceedingly
enraged, and conceived an unappeasable displeasure against
Prince Lhewelyn, which, however, he thought it convenient
to conceal and dissemble for a time. Indeed, he was pre-
judiced against Lhewelyn ever since he had been vanquished
and put to flight by him in the marches, so that the chief
cause of King Edward's anger originally proceeded from a
point of wounded honour, which this refusal of homage
served to increase. To prosecute his revenge, which upon
such a ground is commonly in princes very implacable, he in
a short time came to Chester, meaning to recover by force
what he could not obtain by fair means. From thence he
sent to the Prince of Wales, requiring him to come and do
him homage, which Lhewelyn either absolutely refusing or
willingly neglecting to do, King Edward made ready his
A. D. 1277. army to force him thereto : but an accident occurred, which
took off a great part of Lhewelyn's obstinacy ; for at this
time the Countess of Leicester, the widow of Simon Mont-
ford,

HISTORY OF WALES. 253

ford,* who lived at Montargis, a nunnery in France, sent
over to Wales her daughter, the Lady Eleanor, (whom
Lhewelyn extremely loved,) with her brother Aemerike,
the former to be married to the prince according to the
agreement made in the time of her father, Earl Montford :
Aemerike, however, fearing to touch upon the coast of
England, steered his course towards the islands of Scilly,
where by the way they were all taken by four Bristol ships,
and brought to King Edward, who received the lady very
honourably, but committed her brother prisoner to the
castle of Corff, whence he was afterwards removed to the
castle of Shirburne. The king having obtained this unex-
pected advantage over Lhewelyn, began boldly to fall upon
him, and so dividing his army into two battalions, led one
himself into North Wales, and advanced as far as Ruddlan,
where he strongly fortified the castle. The other he com-
mitted to Paganus de Camutiis, a great soldier, who, entering
into West Wales, burned and destroyed a great part of the
country. Then the people of South Wales, fearing that his
next expedition would be levelled against them, volunta-
rily submitted themselves to the king, and did him homage,
and then delivered up the castle of Ystraty wy to Paganus.

Prince Lhewelyn, hearing of this, and finding that his
own subjects forsook him, but more especially being de-
sirous to recover his spouse the Lady Eleanor, thought it
likewise advisable to submit, and therefore sued to King
Edward for a peace, who granted it, but upon very severe
conditions, as regarded Lhewelyn. The agreement con-
sisted of ten articles, which were, — I. That the prince
should set at liberty all prisoners that upon the king's
account were detained in custody. II. That for the king's
favour arid good-will, he should pay 50,000 marks, to be
received at the king's pleasure. III. That these four can-
treds or hundreds, viz. Cantref Ros, where the king's castle
of Diganwy stands, — Ryfonioc, where Denbigh, — Teg-
eingl, where Ruddlan, — Dyflfryn Clwyd, where Ruthyn,
stands, — should remain in the king's hands. IV. That
the Lords Marchers should quietly enjoy all the lands they
had conquered within Wales, excepting in the Isle of
Anglesey, which was wholly granted to the prince. V.
That in consideration of this island, the prince should pay
5000 marks in hand, with the reserve of 1000 marks
yearly, to begin at Michaelmas; and in case the prince died

without

* He married Eleanor, dowager of William Earl of Pembroke, and sisfer to Henry the
Third. This Simon de Montford built a castle at Broadway, near Churchstoke, called
Simon's Castle, now demolished. — Lleweljti's Manuscript.

254 HISTORY OF WALES.

without issue, the whole island should return to the king.
VI. That the prince should come every year to England to
pay his homage to the king for all his lands. VII. That
all the barons of Wales, excepting five in Snowdon, should
hold their lands and estates of the king, and no other.
VIII. That the title of Prince should remain only for his
life, and not descend to his successor's, and after his death,
the five lords of Snowdon should hold their lands only from
the king. IX. That for the performance of these articles,
the prince should deliver up for hostages ten persons of the
best quality in the country ^ without imprisoning, disinhe-
riting, and any time of redemption determined, X. And
farther, that the king should choose twenty persons in
North Wales, who, besides the prince, should take their
oaths for the due performance of these articles ; and in case
the prince should swerve and recede from them, and upon
admonition thereof not repent, they should forsake him, and
become his enemies. The prince was obliged to suffer
his brethren quietly to enjoy their lands in Wales, whereof
David for his service was dubbed knight by the king, and
had the Earl of Derby's widow given him in matrimony, and
with her as a portion the castle of Denbigh in North
Wales, besides 1000 pounds in lands. His other brother
Roderic had lately escaped out of prison into England, and
the younger, called Owen, was upon his composition deli*
vered out of prison.

King Edward having imposed these severe conditions
upon Prince Lhewelyn, and for a better security for the
performance of them, built a castle at Aberystwith, returned
very honourably into England ; upon whose arrival, the
people willingly granted him a subsidy of the twentieth
part of their estates towards his charges in this war: but it
seems very probable that Prince Lhewelyn submitted to
these intolerable conditions, more upon the account of his
amours, and to regain the Lady Eleanora out of the King of
England's hand, than that he was apprehensive of any
considerable danger he might receive by the English troops;
for it is hardly conceivable, that a prince of such well-known
conduct and valour, would so easily accept of such severe
terms, and as it were deliver up his principality, when there
was no necessity so to do, without resisting an enemy,
whom he had frequently overcome, and forced to retire
back with greater inequality than the English had at
present over him : but the force of love works wonders, and
in this case proved most irresistible, for to obtain his desire
Lhewelyn did not scruple to forfeit his just right to his

inveterate

HISTORY OF WALES. 255

inveterate enemies, and for ever to exclude his posterity
from succeeding in their lawful inheritance. The next year A-D- 1278-
therefore, he had his wish accomplished, and was married to
Eleanora at Worcester, the king and queen, with all the
nobility and persons of quality in England, honouring the
wedding with their presence.*

This specious amity, and the peace lately concluded
betwixt them, did not. however last long, for the English
governors in the marches and inland counties of Wales,
presuming upon the prince's submission to the king,
grievously oppressed the inhabitants of the country, with
new and unheard-of exactions, and with intolerable par-
tiality openly encouraged the English to defraud and
oppress the Welsh. These insupportable practices moved
the Welsh to go in a body to David Lord of Denbigh, to
endeavour to procure a reconciliation between him and his
brother the prince, that they both, being at unity, might
easily deliver themselves and their country from the un-
merciful tyranny of the English. David was not ignorant of
the miseries of his countrymen, and therefore gladly sub-
mitted to be reconciled to his brother, with promise never
to take part again with the King of England, but to become
his utter enemy. This happy union being thus effected,
David was chosen general of the army, with which he
presently marched to Hawarden, and surprising the castle
slew all that opposed him, and took Roger Clifford
prisoner, who had been sent by King Edward as Justiciary
into those parts.f From thence, being joined by the
prince, he passed to Rhuddlan, and laid siege to the
castle ; but upon notice given that the king was marching to
raise the siege, he deemed it convenient to withdraw, and to
retire. At the same time Rhys ap Maelgon and Gruffydh
ap Meredith ap Owen, with other lords of South Wales,
took from the English the castle of Aberystwith, with
divers others in that country, and plundered all the people
thereabouts, who owned subjection to the crown of Eng-
land. In the mean while John Peckham, Archbishop of
Canterbury, perceiving how matters were likely to proceed
between the king and the prince, and that the kingdom was
completely involved in a war, he of his own will came to
Prinee LhewelynJ to endeavour a re-submission from him

and

* On the 13th of October. — Holinshead, p 277.

f This occurrence took place on Palm Sunday. Henry de Knyghton de Event. Ang.
p. 2464, says, that they slew all the masons, carpenters, and other workmen employed in
the Justiciary fortresses.

J Rymer, vol. 2, p. 68. — About this time died ihe wife of Lhewelyn (Eleanor de
Montford) in child-bed.

256 HISTORY OF WALES.

and his brother David to King Edward, and so to put a
stop to any further hostilities.

In order to this, he sent before-hand, to the prince and
people of Wales, intimating to them, " That for the love he
" bore to the Welsh nation, he undertook this arbitration,
" without the knowledge, and contrary to the king's liking ;
" and therefore earnestly desired, that they would submit to
" a peace with the English, which himself would endeavour
" to bring to pass. And because he could make no long
" continuance in those parts, he wished them to consider how
(( that if he should be forced to depart before any thing
" was brought to a conclusion, they could hardly find ano-
" ther who would so heartily espouse their cause ; and
" farther threatened, that in case they contemned and
ef derided his endeavours, he would not only instigate the
" English army, now greatly strengthened and increased, to
fe fall upon them, but also signify their stubbornness to the
" court and bishop of Rome, who esteemed and honoured
" England beyond any other kingdom in the world. More-
" over, he much lamented to hear of the excessive cruelty
" of the Welsh, even beyond that of the Saracens and other
" infidels, who never refused to permit slaves and captives
" to be ransomed; which the Welsh were so far from
" practising, that even some time they slew those for whose
<f redemption they received money. And whereas they
" were wont to esteem and reverence holy and ecclesiastical
" persons, they are now so far degenerated from devotion
" and sanctity, that nothing is more acceptable to them than
<f war and sedition, which they had now great need to for-
" sake and repent of. Lastly, he proposed that they would
" signify to him, wherein and what laws and constitutions
(( of theirs were violated by the English, and by what means
" a firm and a lasting peace might be established ; which, if
ff they rejected, they must expect to incur the decree and
" censure of the church, as well as endure the violent in-
f ' roads and depredations of a powerful army."

To these, partly admonitions, and partly threatenings of
the archbishop, Prince Lhewelyn returned an answer:
" That he humbly thanked his Grace for the pains and
(f trouble he undertook in his and his subjects' behalf; and
" more particularly, because he would venture to come to
" Wales, contrary to the pleasure and good liking of the
" king. And as for concluding a peace with him, he would
" not have his Grace be ignorant, that with all readiness he
" was willing to submit to it, upon condition that the king
" would duly and sincerely observe the same. And though

HISTORY OF WALES.

c< he would be glad of his longer continuance in Wales, yet
" he hoped that no obstructions would happen of his side,
" why a peace (which of all things he most desired) might
" not be forthwith concluded, and rather by his Grace's
(t procuring than any other's ; so that there would be no
" farther need of acquainting the Pope with his obstinacy,
" nor moving the king of England to use any force against
' ' him. And though the kingdom of England be under the
" immediate protection of the see of Rome, yet when his
(( Holiness comes to understand the great and unsufferable
" wrongs done to him by the English ; how the articles of
" peace were broken, churches and all other religious houses
fl in Wales were burned down and destroyed, and religious
< ' persons unchristianly murdered, he hoped he would rather
" pity and lament his condition, than with addition of
" punishment increase and augment his sorrow. Neither
" shall the kingdom of England be anywise disquieted and
" molested by his means, in case the peace be religiously
" observed towards him and his subjects. But who they
te are that delight themselves with war and bloodshed,,
" manifestly appears by their actions and behaviour ; the
" Welsh being glad to live quietly upon their own, if they
te might be permitted by the English, who coming to the
" country, utterly destroy whatever comes in their way,
" without regard either to sex, age, or religious places.
ft But he was extremely sorry that any one should be slain,
" having paid his ransom ; the author of which unworthy
(f action he did not pretend to maintain, .but would inflict
(( upon him his condign punishment, in case he could be
" got out of the woods and deserts, where as an outlaw he
ef lives undiscovered. But as to commencing a war in a
' ' season inconvenient, he protested he knew nothing of that
" till now : yet those that did so, do solemnly attest that to
" be the only measure they had to save themselves, and that
" they had no other security for their lives and fortunes,
" than to keep themselves in arms. Concerning his sins
" and trespasses against God, with the assistance of his
" Grace, he would endeavour to repent of; neither should
" the war be willingly continued by him, in case he might
" save himself harmless ; but before he would be unjustly
" dispossessed of his legal property, he thought it but
" reasonable, by all possible measures, to defend himself.
" And he was very willing, upon due examination of the
" trespasses committed, to make satisfaction and retribution
' e of all wrongs committed by him and his subjects ; so that

" the

258 HISTORY OF WALES.

' ' the English would observe the same on their side ; and
" likewise was ready to conclude a peace, which he thought
" was impossible to be established, as long as the English
" had no regard to articles, and still oppressed his people
" with new and unwarrantable exactions. Therefore seeing
" his subjects were unchristianly abused by the king's
" officers, and all his country most tyrannically harassed,
" he saw no reason why the English, upon any fault of his
ee side, should threaten to bring a formidable army to his
' e country, nor the church pretend to censure him : seeing
fe also, he was very willing, upon the aforesaid conditions,
" to submit to a peace. And lastly, he desired his Grace,
" that he would not give the more credit to his enemies,
" because they were near his person, and could deliver
" their complaints frequently, and by word of mouth; for
" they who made no conscience of oppressing, would not in
" all probability stick to defame, and make false accusa-
"tions; and, therefore, his Grace would make a better
te estimation of the whole matter, by examining their ac-
" tions rather than believing their words."

Prince Lhewelyn having to this purpose replied in general
to the archbishop's articles, presented him with a formal
detail of the several grievances which himself and others of
his subjects had wrongfully and unjustly received at the
hands of the English : and the archbishop having read over
the statement of these grievances, and finding the Welsh to
be upon good reason guiltless of that severe character,
which by the malicious insinuations of the English he had
conceived of them, went to King Edward, requesting him
to take into consideration the wrongs and injuries done to
the Welsh ; which if he would not redress, at least he might
excuse them from any breach of obedience to him, seeing
they had such just reasons for what they did. The king
replied, that he willingly forgave them, and would make
reasonable satisfaction for any wrong done; and that they
should have free access to declare their grievances before
him ; and then might safely depart, in case it would appear
just and lawful they should. The archbishop upon this
thought he had obtained his purpose ; and therefore, with-
out any stay, hastened to Snowdon, where the prince and
his brother David resided, and having stated to them what
the king had said, earnestly desired that they and the rest
of the nobility of Wales would submit themselves, and by
him be introduced to the king's presence. Prince Lhewelyn,
after some time spent in conference and debate, declared
that he was ready to submit to the king, with the reserve

only

HISTORY OF WALES. 259

only of two particulars; namely, his conscience, whereby he
was obliged to regard the safety and liberties of his people;
and then the decency of his own state and quality. The
king, however, understanding by the archbishop that the
prince stood upon terms, positively refused to consent to
any more treaties of peace, than that he should simply
submit without any farther conditions. The archbishop
had experience enough, that the Welsh would never agree
to such proposals ; arid therefore desired his Majesty to give
him leave, with the rest of the English nobility present, to
confer and conclude upon the matter; which being granted,
they unanimously resolved on the following articles, and
sent them to the prince by John Wallensis, Bishop of
St. David's: — *

" I. The king will have no treaty of the four cantreds,
" and other lands which he has bestowed upon his nobles ;
" nor of the isle of Anglesey.

(( II. In case the tenants of the four cantreds submit
" themselves, the king purposeth to deal kindly and honour-
" ably with them ; which we are sufficiently satisfied of, and
" will, what in us lies, endeavour to further.

" III. We will do the like touching Prince Lhewelyn,
" concerning whom we can return no other answer, than that
" he must barely submit himself to the king, without hopes
' ' of any other conditions."

These were the publick articles agreed upon by the
English nobility, and sent to Prince Lhewelyn; besides
which they sent some private measures of agreement, relat-
ing both to him and his brother David ; promising, that in
case he would submit, and put the king in quiet possession
of Snowdon, his Majesty would bestow an English county
upon him, with the yearly revenue of a thousand pounds
sterling. And moreover, his daughter should be provided
for suitable to her birth and quality, and all his subjects
according to their estate and condition ; and in case he
should have male issue by a second wife, the aforesaid
county and one thousand pounds should remain to his
posterity for ever. As for David, the prince's brother, if
he would consent to go to the Holy Land, upon condition
not to return but upon the king's pleasure, all things should
be honourably prepared for his journey with respect to his
quality ; and his child maintained and provided for by the
king. To these the archbishop added his threats, that in
case they did not comply, and submit themselves to the
king's mercy, there were very severe and imminent dangers

s 2

hanging

260 HISTORY OF WALES.

hanging over their heads ; a formidable army was ready to
make an inroad into their country, which would not only
harass and oppress them, but in all probability totally
eradicate the whole nation: besides which, they were to
expect the most severe censure and punishment by the
church.

All this could not force so unlimited a submission from
the prince, but that he would stand upon some certain con-
ditions ; and therefore by letter he acquainted the arch-
bishop, ' that he was with all willingness desirous to submit
himself to the king; but withal, that he could not do it but
in such a manner as was safe and honest for him. And
because the form of submission contained in the articles sent
to him, were by himself and his council thought pernicious
and illegal for him to consent to, as tending rather to the
destruction than the security of himself and his subjects, he
could in no wise agree to it; and in case he should be
willing, the rest of his nobility and people would never
admit of it, as knowing for certain the mischief and incon-
veniency that would ensue thereby. Therefore he desired
his lordship, that for a confirmation of an honest and a
durable peace, which he had all this while earnestly la-
boured for, he would manage matters circumspectly, and
with due regard to the following articles : for it was much
more honourable for the king, and far more consonant to
reason, that he should hold his lands in the country where
he was born and dwelt in, than that, by dispossessing of him,
his estate should be bestowed upon strangers.' With this
was sent the general answer of the Welsh to the archbishop's
articles, viz. —

" I. Though the king would not consent to treat of the
c ' four cantreds, nor of the isle of Anglesey ; yet unless
" these be comprehended in the treaty, the prince's council
" will not conclude a peace ; by reason that these cantreds
<( have, ever since the time of Camber the son of Brutus,
" properly and legally belonged to the Princes of Wales ;
' ' besides the confirmation which the present prince obtained
" by the consent of the king and his father, at the treaty
" before Cardinal Ottobonus, the Pope's legate, whose
fe letters patent do still appear. And more, the justice of
" the thing itself is plainly evident, that it is more reason-
" able for our heirs to hold the said cantreds for money, and
" other services due to the king, than that strangers enjoy
" the same, who will forcibly abuse and oppress the people.
" II. All the tenants of the cantreds of Wales do unani-
" mously declare that they dare not submit themselves to

"the

HISTORY OF WALES. 261

" the king's pleasure ; by reason that he never from the
(( beginning took care to observe either covenant, oath, or
" any other grant to the prince and his people ; and because
" his subjects have no regard to religion, but most cruelly
" and unchristianly tyrannize over churches and religious
' ' persons ; and then, for that we do not understand our-
' ' selves any way obliged thereunto, seeing we be the prince's
" tenants, who is willing to pay the king all usual and
f( accustomed services.

tf III. As to what is required, that the prince should
" simply commit himself to the king's will, we all declare,
" that, for the aforesaid reasons, none of us dare come,
" neither will we permit our prince to come to him upon
" those conditions.

" IV. That some of the English nobility will endeavour
" to procure a provision of a thousand pounds a-year in
" England ; we would let them know, that we can accept
" of no such pension ; because it is procured for no other
" end that the prince being disinherited, themselves may
" obtain his lands in Wales.

" V. The prince cannot in honesty resign his paternal
" inheritance, which has for many ages been enjoyed by his
" predecessors, and accept of other lands among the Eng-
' ' lish, of whose customs and language he is ignorant ; and
" upon that score, may at length be fraudulently deprived
" of all by his malicious and inveterate enemies.

" VI. Seeing the king intends to deprive him of his
" antient inheritance in Wales, where the land is more
(e barren and untilled, it is not very probable that he will
" bestow upon him a more fruitful and an arable estate in
" England.

" VII. As to the clause that the prince should give the
" king a perpetual possession of Snowdon, we only affirm,
" that seeing Snowdon essentially belongs to the principality
" of Wales, which the prince and his predecessors have
" enjoyed since Brute, the prince's council will not permit
" him to renounce it, and accept another estate in England,
" to which he has not equal right.

' ' VIII. The people of Snowdon declare, that though the
" prince should give the king possession of it, they would
" never own and pay submission to strangers ; for in so
" doing they would bring upon themselves the same misery
" that the people of the four cantreds have for a long time
" groaned under: being most rudely handled and unjustly
" oppressed by the king's officers, as woefully appears by
" their several grievances.

"IX.

262 HISTORY OF WALES.

" IX. As for David, the prince's brother, we see no
(f reason why against his will he should be compelled to
" take a journey to the Holy Land ; which if he happens to
" undertake hereafter upon the account of religion, it is no
" cause that his issue should be disinherited, but rather
" encouraged.

" Now seeing neither the prince nor any of his subjects
(< upon any account whatsoever have moved and begun this
" war, but only defended themselves, their properties, laws,
" and liberties from the encroachments of other persons ;
*' and since the English, for either malice or covetousness
" to obtain our estates, have unjustly occasioned all these
" troubles and broils in the kingdom, we are assured that
" our defence is just and lawful, and therein depend upon
<( the aid and assistance of heaven ; which will be most
" cruelly revenged upon our sacrilegious and inhuman
•f enemies, who have left no manner of enormities, in re-
" lation to God and man, uncommitted. Therefore your
ff Grace would more justly threaten your ecclesiastical
" censures against the authors and abettors of such un-
-( paralleled villainies, than the innocent sufferers. And
" besides, we much admire that you should advise us to
f ( part with our own estates, and to live among our enemies ;
*' as if, when we cannot peaceably enjoy what is our own
" unquestionable right, we might expect to have quiet
(( possession of another man's : and though, as you say, it
^ be hard to live in war and perpetual danger ; yet much
" harder it is, to be utterly destroyed and reduced to no-
" thing ; especially when we seek but the defence of our
" own liberties from the insatiable ambition of our enemies.
f ' And seeing your Grace has promised to fulminate sentence
<{ against all them that either for malice or profit would
" hinder and obstruct the peace ; it is evident who in this
'* respect are transgressors and delinquents ; the fear and
" apprehension of imprisonment and ejection out of our
" estates, the sense of oppression and tyrannical govern-
<f ment, having compelled us to take up arms for the security
" of our lives and fortunes. Therefore, as the English are
" not dispossessed of their estates for their offences against
" the king, so we are willing to be punished, or make other
< ' satisfaction for our crimes, without being disinherited ;
< ' and as to the breach of the peace, it is notorious that they
" were the authors, who never regarded either promise or
" covenant, never made amends for trespasses, nor remedy
" for our complaints."

When the archbishop saw there was no likelihood of a

mediation,

HISTORY OF WALES. 263

mediation, and that it was impossible to conclude a peace
as long as the Welsh stood upon conditions, he relinquished
his pretended affection towards them, and denounced a
sentence of excommunication against the prince and all his
adherents. It was a subject of no small wonder, that a
person of such reputed sanctity, who esteemed the several
grievances done to the Welsh to be intolerable, should now
condemn them for refusing an unlimited submission to the
King of England ; whereas he had already owned it to be
unreasonable : but this ecclesiastical censure was only a
prologue to a more melancholy scene; for King Edward,
immediately upon its being issued, sent an army by sea to
Anglesey, which, without any great opposition, conquered
the island, and without any mercy put all that withstood
him to the sword. From thence designing to pass over to
the continent, he caused a bridge of boats covered with
planks to be built over the Menai (being an arm of the sea
which parteth the isle from the main land) at a place called
Moel y don,* not far from Bangor, where the water is
narrowest. The bridge being finished, which was so broad
as that threescore men might pass it a-breast,f William
Latimer, with a strong party of the best experienced
soldiers, and Sir Lucas de Tancy, commander of the
Gascoigns and Spaniards, whereof a great number served
the king, passed over, but could discover no sign, nor the
least intimation of an enemy : but as soon as the tide began
to appear, and the sea had overflown each side of the
bridge, the Welsh came down fiercely out of the mountains,
and attacking the disheartened English, killed or drowned
their whole number, excepting Latimer, who by the swim-
ming of his horse got safely to the bridge. In this action,
several worthy soldiers of the English side were lost ;
among whom were Sir Lucas de Tancy, Robert Clifford,
Sir Walter Lyndsey, two brothers of Robert Burnel, Bishop
of Bath, with many others ; in all to the number of thirteen
knights, seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred
common soldiers.^ A little after, or as some say before,
another engagement passed between the English and the
Welsh, wherein the former lost fourteen colours, the Lords
Audley and Clifford the younger being slain, and the king
himself forced to retreat for safety to the castle of Hope.

While

* From the shore opposite this place, it is supposed, the German forces under
Agricola passed over into Mona.

f Welsh Chron. p. 372. Holinshead, p. 281. Annales Waverleiensis, p. 235.
Polidore Vergil, p. 324. Hen. de Knyghton de Event. Ang. p. 2464.

J The Lord Latimer, who commanded the English in this detachment, bad the good
fortune to recover the bridge by the stoutness of his horse. Holinshead, p. 281, says,
that only 200 foot soldiers perished. Mattk. Westminster, 176.

264 HISTORY OF WALES.

"While these things passed in North Wales, the Earl of
Gloucester and Sir Edmund Mortimer acted vigorously
with their forces in South Wales ; and lighting the Welsh
at Lhandeilo Fawr, overthrew them with the loss of no
considerable person, saving William de Valence the king's
cousin-german, and four knights besides. Prince Lhewelyn
was all this while in Cardigan, wasting and destroying all
the country, and principally the lands of Rhys ap Mere-
dith, who very unnaturally rield with the King of England
in all these wars. Being at length tired with exertion, he
with a few men privately separated himself from his army,
and came to Buelht, thinking to recreate and refresh him-
self there undiscovered: but coming to the river Wye, he
met with Edmund Mortimer and John Giftbrd, with a
considerable party of the people of that country of which
Mortimer was the lord. Neither party ventured to assail
the other; and Prince Lhewelyn with one servant only
retired to a private grove in a neighbouring valley, there to
.consult with certain lords of the country, who had appointed
to meet him. In the mean time Mortimer descended from
the hill, with intention to fall upon Lhewelyn's men ; which
they perceiving, betook themselves to the bridge called
Pont Orewyn,* and manfully defended the passage he was
to cross. Mortimer could effect nothing against them, till
he had gained the bridge, the river being impassable; and
to force them to quit if, seemed altogether impracticable :
but ai; last, the river was discovered to be fordable a little
below, and so Helias Walwynf was detached with a party
through the river, who unexpectedly attacking the rear of
the defendants, he easily forced them to leave the bridge,
and save themselves by flight. Prince Lhewelyn during
this time in vaip expected the lords of Buelht, and in the
end continued to wait so long, that Mortimer having passed
over the bridge, surrounded the wood in which he was with
armed men. The prince, perceiving himself to be betrayed,
thought to make his escape to his men ; but the English so
closely pursued him, that before he could come in, one
Adam Francton, not knowing who lie was, run him through
with his sword, being unarmed^ The Welsh still ex-
pected the arrival of their prince, and though but a few in
number, so gallantly maintained their ground, that in spite
of the far greater number of the English, they were not
Without much exertion put to flight. The battle being over,

Francton

* Holin$head, p. 281. f Ibid. Welsh Chron. 373.

$ Henry de Knyghton, p. 2464. Humffrey Lhuyd's Brev. p. 60» Welsh Chron. p. 374.
Holinshead, p. 281.

HISTORY OF WALES. 265

Francton returned to plunder his dead;* but perceiving him
to be the Prince of Wales, he thought that he had obtained
a sufficient prize, and thereupon immediately cut off his
head, and sent it to King Edward at Conway, who very
joyfully caused it to be placed upon the highest pinnacle of'
the Tower of London. Thus fell this worthy prince, the
greatest, though the last of the British blood, betrayed most
basely by the lords of Buelht, and being dead, most un-
worthily dealt with by the King of England; who, contrary
to all precedents, treated a lawful prince like a traitor, and
exposed his crowned head to the derision of the multitude.

THE PRINCES OF WALES OF ENGLISH
BLOOD.

J_ RINCE Lhewelyn and his brother David being so
basely taken off, and leaving no one to lay any fair claim to
the principality of Wales; King Edward, by a statute made Anno 12
at Rhuddlan, incorporated and annexed it to the crown of Edw> lm
England, constituting several new and wholesome laws, as
concerning the division of Wales into several counties, the
form and manner of writs and proceeding in trials, with
many others not very unlike the laws and constitutions of the
English nation. f All this, however, did not win the affec-
tion of the Welsh towards him, for they would not by any
means own him as their sovereign, unless he would consent
to live and reign among them. They had not forgot the
cruel oppressions and intolerable insolencies of the English
officers; and, therefore, they positively told him, they
would never yield obedience to any other than a prince of
their own nation, of their own language, and whose life and
conversation was spotless and unblameable. King Edward,
perceiving the Welsh to be resolute and inflexible, and

absolutely

* This action happened on the 10th of December, 1282. Tradition says, that Lhewelyn
caused his horse's shoes to be reversed in order to deceive his pursuers, as the snow was
on the ground; but the circumstance was made known by the treachery of the smith.
Thus died Lhewelyn ap Gruffydh, after a reign of 36 years, leaving only one daughter,
who, with the daughter of his brother David, were confined in a nunnery in England, as
an order was sent by Edward, seven years after the death of their parents, to Thomas de
Normanville, to enquire minutely into the state and safe custody of the said princess.
This daughter of Lhewelyn and of Eleanor de Montford, called Catherine Lackland, was
sent by Edward, attended by her nurse, to be educated in England. She was afterwards
married to Malcolm, Earl of Fife. Lhewelyn is also said to have had a son of the name
of Madoc; but he certainly must have been illegitimate, as that prince had been only
once married. — Mills's Catalogue of Honour, p. 310. It is most probable that David's
daughter remained in England, and died a nun.

t Brady, vol. ii. p. 11. Matth, Wcstm. 177.

266 HISTORY OF WALES.

absolutely bent against any other prince, than one of their
own country, happily thought of this politic, though
dangerous expedient. Queen Eleanor was now great with
child, and near the time of her delivery ; and though the
season was very severe, it being the depth of winter, the
king sent for her from England, and removed her to Caer-
narvon castle, the place designed for her lying-in. When
the time of her delivery was come, King Edward summoned
all the barons and chief persons throughout all Wales to
attend him at Rhuddlan, there to consult about the public
good and safety of their country, and being informed that
his queen was delivered of a son, he told the Welsh nobility,
that whereas they had oftentimes intreated him to appoint
them a prince, and he had at this time occasion to depart
out of the country, he, according to their request, and to
the conditions they had proposed, would name a prince for
their obedience. The Welsh readily agreed to the motion,
only with the same reserve, that he should appoint them a
prince of their own nation. King Edward assured them, he
would name such an one as was born in Wales, could speak
no English, and whose life and conversation no body could
stain; and the Welsh agreeing to own and obey such a
prince, he named his own son Edward, just then before
born in Caernarvon castle.

King Edward having by these means deluded the Welsh,
and reduced the whole country of Wales to obedience,
began to reward his followers with other men's properties,
and bestowed whole lordships and towns in the midst of the
country upon English lords, among whom Henry Lacy
Earl of Lincoln obtained the lordship of Denbigh; and
Reginald Grey, second son to John Lord Grey of Wilton,
the lordship of Ruthyn. This Henry Lacy was son to
Edmund Lacy, the son of John Lacy, Lord of Halton
Pomfret, and constable of Chester, who married Margaret
the eldest daughter, and one of the heirs of Robert Quincy
Earl of Lincoln. This Henry Lacy Lord of Denbigh
married the daughter and sole heir of William Longspear
Earl of Salisbury, by whom he had issue two sons, Edmund
and John, who both died young, one by a fall into a very
deep well within the castle of Denbigh ; and a daughter
named Alicia, who was married to Thomas Plantagenet
Earl of Lancaster, who in right of his wife was Earl of
Lincoln and Sarum, Lord of Denbigh, Halton Pomfret, and
constable of Chester. After his death, King Edward II.
bestowed the said lordship of Denbigh upon Hugh Lord
Spencer Earl of Winchester, upon whose decease, King

Edward

HISTORY OF WALES. 267

Edward III. gave it, together with many other lordships in
the marches, to Roger Mortimer Earl of March, in per-
formance of a promise he had made, whilst he remained
with his mother in France, that as soon as he should come
to the possession of the crown of England, he would bestow
upon the said Earl of March to the value of £1000 yearly
in lands. But within a few years after, Mortimer being
attainted of high treason, King Edward bestowed the said
lordship of Denbigh upon Montague Earl of Salisbury ; but
it was quickly restored again to the Mortimers, in which
house it continued till the whole estate of the Earls of
March came with a daughter to the house of York, and so
to the crown, Richard Duke of York, grandfather to
Edward the Fourth, having married the sole daughter and
heir of the house of Mortimer. Hence it continued in the
crown to Queen Elizabeth's time, who, in the sixth year of
her reign, bestowed the said lordship upon her great
favourite Robert Earl of Leicester, who was then created
Baron of Denbigh. After him it returned again to the
crown, where it continued to the year 1696, when King
William the Third granted a patent under the Great Seal to
William Earl of Portland, for the lordships of Denbigh,
Bromfield, and Yale. Some of the Welsh representatives,
perceiving how far such a grant encroached upon the
properties and privileges of the subject, disclosed their
grievances to the honourable House of Commons, who,
after some consideration, resolved fnemine contradicente)
that a petition should be presented to his Majesty by the
body of the whole House, to request him to recall his grant
to the said Earl of Portland, which was accordingly done in
the manner following :

' ' May it please Your Most Excellent Majesty,

" We, Your Majesty's most dutiful and loyal subjects,
" the knights, citizens, and burgesses in parliament assem-
" bled; humbly lay before Your Majesty, That whereas
" there is a grant passing to William Earl of Portland, and
" his heirs, of the Manors of Denbigh, Bromfield, and
" Yale, and divers other lands in the principality of Wales ;
" together with several estates of inheritance, enjoyed by
" many of Your Majesty's subjects by virtue of ancient
" grants from the crown :

" That the said manors, with the large and extensive
" royalties, powers, and jurisdictions to the same belonging,
se are of great concern to Your Majesty and the crown of
" this realm : and that the same have been usually annexed
" to the principality of Wales, and settled on the Princes

of

268 HISTORY OF WALES.

" of Wales for their support: and that a great number of
" Your Majesty's subjects, in those parts, hold their estates
" by royal tenure, under great and valuable compositions,
" rents, royal payments, and services to the crown and
" princes of Wales ; and have by such tenure great depend-
" ance on Your Majesty and the crown of England; and
t( have enjoyed great privileges and advantages with their
" estates under such tenure :

" We therefore most humbly beseech Your Majesty, to
" put a stop to the passing this grant to the Earl of Port-
" land, of the said manors and lands, and that the same
<{ may not be disposed from the crown but by consent of
" parliament; for that such grant is in diminution of the
" honour and interest of the crown, by placing in a subject
" such large and extensive royalties, powers, and jurisdic-
" tions, which ought only to be in the crown ; and will
" sever that dependance which so great a number of Your
" Majesty's subjects in those parts have on Your Majesty
<( and the crown by reason of their tenure, and may be to
" their great oppression in those rights which they have
<( purchased and hitherto enjoyed with their estates ; and
f( also an occasion of great vexation to many of Your
" Majesty's subjects, who have long had the absolute
" inheritance of several lands (comprehended in the said
' ' grant to the Earl of Portland) by ancient grants from the
<( crown."

His Majesty's Answer.
(( Gentlemen,

" I have a kindness for my Lord Portland, which he has
" deserved of Me, by long and faithful services ; but I
" should not have given him these lands, if 1 had imagined
<( the House of Commons could have been concerned ;
" I will therefore recall the grant, and find some other way
" of shewing My favour to him."

The lordship of Ruthyn continued in the possession of
the Greys till the reign of Henry VII. when George Grey,
Earl of Kent and Lord of Ruthyn, upon some bargain,
passed the same over to the king ; after which it was in the
possession of some of the Earls of Warwick, and subse-
quently came to the family of Myddelton of Chirk Castle,
in the county of Denbigh, in which family it still continues ;
being now enjoyed by Miss Myddelton, one of the sisters
and co-heirs of the late Richard Myddelton, Esq.

Besides Henry Lacy and Reginald Grey, several other
gentlemen of quality came at this time with King Edward to
North Wales, who subsequently became men of great pos-
sessions

HISTORY OF WALES. 269

sessions and sway in the country, and whose posterity enjoy
the same to this time : but he that expected to have the
largest share in the distribution of these lordships and
estates in Wales, was one Rhys ap Meredith, a Welshman,
and one that, contrary to the allegiance sworn to his prince
and his duty to his native country, had served the king of
England in all these wars, and done the greatest hurt of any
man to the interest of Prince Lhewelyn. For these great
services done to King Edward, Rhys expected no less than
to be promoted to the highest preferments ; and the king,
after the Prince of Wales's overthrow, dubbed him knight,
but subsequently gave him little else, except fair words and
great promises.

When Rhys, and all his neighbours and countrymen, had
thus submitted themselves to the government of the king of
England, it happened that the Lord Pain Tiptoft, warden
of the king's castles which joined to Rhys's country, and the
Lord Alan Plucknet, the king's steward in Wales, cited Sir
Rhys ap Meredith,* with all the rest of the country, to the
king's court ; which, however, he refused to attend, alleging
his ancient privileges and liberties, together with the king's
promises to him. The aforesaid officers, therefore, pro- A. D. 1290.
ceeded against him according to law : whereupon Sir Rhys,
being much annoyed to be thus served by those whose
interest he had so warmly espoused, thought to be revenged
of Pain Tiptoft, and the rest of the English. To that end,
having drawn together some of his tenants and countrymen,
he fell upon the said Pain Tiptoft; with whom several
.skirmishes afterwards happened, and several men were slain
on both sides. King Edward was now gone to Arragon, to
compose the differences between the kings of Arragon and
Naples ; but being informed of the disturbances which had
happened in Wales between his ministers there and Sir
Rhys ap Meredith, he wrote to the latter, requiring him to
keep the peace till his return ; at which time he would re-
dress all grievances, and reduce matters to proper order.
Sir Rhys, having already waited sufficiently upon the king's
promises, and being now in a good condition to offend his
enemies by force of arms, would not give over the enterprize
he saw so promising, but, marching with his forces to his
enemies' lands, burnt and destroyed several towns belonging
to the English. Upon this, the king sent to the Earl of
Cornwall, whom he had appointed his deputy during his
absence, to march with an army into Wales, to repress the

insolencies,

p. 283

Welsh Chron. p. 379. Henry de KriygMon de Event. Ang. p. 2465. Holinshead,
3,

270 HISTORY OF WALES.

insolencies, and to prevent any farther disorderly attempts of
the Welsh. The Earl accordingly prepared an army, and
went against Sir Rhys, whose army he quickly dispersed,
and overthrew his castle of Drefolan, but not without the
loss of some of his chief men : for as they besieged and
undermined the said castle, the walls unexpectedly fell
down, by which unluckly accident several of the English
were bruised to death, among whom were the Lord Strafford,
and the Lord William de Monchency. Within a while
after, Robert Tiptoft, Lord Deputy of Wales, raised a very
powerful army against Sir Rhys, and after a slaughter of
4000 of the Welsh, took him prisoner, and the Michaelmas
following, at the king's going to Scotland, Sir Rhys was
condemned and executed at York.*

A.D. 1293. The death of Sir Rhys did not put a final period to all
the quarrels between the English and Welsh, for in a short
time after there happened a new occasion of murmuring on
the part of the Welsh, and fof their upbraiding the govern-
ment of the English over them. King Edward was now in
actual war with the kins: of France ; and to carry on this
warfare, he required a liberal subsidy and supply from his
subjects. This tax was with much resistance paid in divers
places of the kingdom, but more especially in Wales, the
Welsh being previously unused to such large contributions,
1294 violently resisted and exclaimed against it : but not being
satisfied with maligning the king's command, they took their
own captain, Roger de Puleston, who was appointed col-
lector of the said subsidy, and hanged him up, together with
divers others who abetted the collecting of the tax. Then
the men of West Walesf chose Maelgon Fychan for their
captain, and entering into Caermardhyn and Pembroke
shires, they cruelly harassed all the lands that belonged to
the English, and returned laden with considerable booty.
The men of Glamorganshire and the inhabitants of the
southern parts, chose one Morgan for their leader, and
attacked the Earl of Gloucester, whom they forced to make
his escape out of the country ; and Morgan was put in
possession of those lands which the ancestors of the Earl
of Gloucester had forcibly taken away from Morgan's fore-
fathers. On the one side, the men of North Wales set up
one MadocJ related to the last Lhewelyn slain at Buelht,
who having drawn together a great number of men, came to

Caernarvon

* Agreeable to the new mode of punishment, by being drawn at tbe tail of a horse,
and afterwards hanged and quartered.— Folklore Vergil, p. 236. Matth. Westm. p.
184» says, he was executed at Berwick.

•f- Pembrokeshire.
J He was an illegitimate SOD.— Milk's Catalogue of Honour, p. 310.

HISTORY OF WALES. 271

Caernarvon* and attacked the English, who in great
multitudes had then resorted thither to a fair, slew a great
many, and afterwards spoiled and ransacked the whole
town. King Edward, being informed of these different
, insurrections and rebellions in Wales, and desirous to quell
the pride and stubbornness of the Welsh, but most, of all to
revenge the death of his great favourite Roger de Puleston,
recalled his brother Edmund Earl of Lancaster, and Henry
Lacy Earl of Lincoln and Lord of Denbigh, who with a
considerable army were ready to embark for Gascoign, and
countermanded them into Wales. Being arrived there, they
passed quietly forward, till they came to Denbigh, and as
soon as they drew near unto the castle, upon St. Martin's
day, the Welsh with great fury and courage confronted
them, and joining battle, forced them back with a very
considerable loss. Polidore Vergil says, (but upon what
authority we are not informed,) that the Welsh obtained this
victory rather upon the account that the English army was
hired with such money as had been wrongfully taken out of
the abbies and other religious places, so that it was a
judgment from above, more than the force of the Welsh,
that overcame the English army. Be the cause what it
will, it is certain the English were vanquished, upon which
account King Edward came in person to Wales, and kept
his Christmas at Aberconway, where Robert Winchelsey
Archbishop of Canterbury, being returned from Rome,
came to him, and having done homage, returned honourably
again to England. As the king advanced farther into the
country, having but one part of his army with him, the
Welsh attacked and took most of his carriages, which
contained a great quantity of victuals and provision, so that
the king with all his followers were constrained to endure
many hardships, insomuch that at last water mixed with
honey, and very coarse and ordinary bread, with the saltest
meat, were accounted the greatest delicacies for his Majes-
ty's own table. Their misery would have been much
greater, had not the other part of the army come in time,
because the Welsh forces had surrounded the king and part
of his army, in the hope of reducing him to the utmost
distress, because the water was so much risen, that the rest
of his army could not get to him : but the water within a
short time abating, the remainder of the army came in,
whereupon the Welsh retired, and made their escape.
One thing is very remarkable of King Edward during his
distress at Snowdon, that when the army was reduced to

very

* Matthew Paris, p. 190. Welsh Chron. p. 380.

272 HISTORY OF WALES.

very great extremity, a small quantity of wine was found,
which they purposed to reserve for the king's own use : but
he, to prevent any discontent, which might thereupon be
raised among his soldiers, absolutely refused to taste
thereof, telling them, ' That in time of necessity all things
should be common, and as he was the cause and author
of their distress, he would not be preferred before them in
his diet.'

Whilst the king remained in Snowdon, the Earl of War-
wick being informed that a great number of Welsh were
assembled, and had lodged themselves in a certain valley
betwixt two wroods, chose out a troop of horse, together
with some cross-bowmen and archers, and attacked them in
the night-time. The Welsh being thus surprised and
unexpectedly encompassed by their enemies, made the
utmost haste to oppose them, and pitching their spears in
the ground, and directing their points towards their
enemies, endeavoured by such means to keep off the horse.
But the Earl of Warwick having so disposed his forces, that
between every two horses there stood a cross-bow, so
annoyed the Welsh with their discharges, that the spear-
men fell apace, and then the horse breaking easily in upon
the rest, bore them down with a degree of slaughter that the
Welsh had never before experienced. After this, King
Edward, to prevent any more rebellious attempts of the
Welsh, cut down all the woods in Wales, wherein, in any
time of danger, they were wont to hide and save themselves.
For a farther security, he repaired and fortified all the
castles and places of strength in Wales, and built the castle
of Beaumaris, in the isle of Anglesey, and having thus put
all things in a settled posture, and punished those that had
been the occasion of the death of Roger de Puleston, he
returned with his army into England. As soon as the king
had quitted Wales, Madoc, who, as it is said before, was
chosen captain by the men of North Wales, gathered some
forces together and came to Oswestry, which immediately
surrendered to him : and then meeting with the Lord
Strange near Knockin, who with a detachment of the
marchers came to oppose him, he gave him battle, van-
quished his forces, and ravaged his country. The like
success he obtained in a second engagement against the
marchers ; but at last they brought together a very great
number of men, and met Madoc marching towards Shrews-
bury, upon the hills of Cefn Digolh, not far from Caurse
castle,* where, after a bloody fight on both sides, Madoc

was
* It is said by others that Madoc was delivered up to Edward by his own army.

HISTORY OF WALES. 273

was taken prisoner, and his army vanquished and put to
flight. He was then sent to London, and there sentenced
to remain in perpetual imprisonment in the Tower,* though
others affirm that Madoc was never taken, but that after
several adventures and severe conflicts, whereby the Welsh
were reduced to great extremities, he came in and sub-
mitted himself to the king, who received him upon condition
he would not desist from the pursuit of Morgan, captain of
the men of Glamorganshire, till he brought him prisoner
before him. Madoc having performed this, and the whole
country being peaceable and undisturbed, several hostages
from the chief nobility of Wales for their orderly and quiet
behaviour were delivered to the kin<r, who disposed of them
by placing them in divers castles in England, where they
continued in safe custody till the end of the war which was
soon afterwards commenced with Scotland.

Tn the 29th year of King Edward's reign, the prince of A. D. 1301.
Wales came down to Chester, and received homage of all
the freeholders in Wales as follows :— Henry Earl of Lan-
caster, for Monmouth; Reginald Grey, for Ruthyn; Foulke
Fitzwarren, for his lands; the Lord William Martyn, for
his lands in Cemaes; Roger Mortimer, for his lands in
Wales; Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, for Rhos and Rhy-
fonioc; Robert Lord Montalt, for his lands; and Gruffydh
Lord of Poole, for the lordship of Powys. At the same
time paid their homage Tudor ap Grono, of Anglesey;
Madoc ap Tudor, Archdeacon of Anglesey; Eineon ap
Howel, of Caernarvon ; Tudor ap Gruffydh ; Lhewelyn ap
Ednyfed ; Gruffydh Fychan, son of Gruffydh ap lorwerth ;
Madoc Fychan d'Englefield ; Lhewelyn, Bishop of St.
Asaph ; and Richard de Pulesdon ; which last-named
person, in the twelfth year of King Edward, was constituted
sheriff of Caernarvon for life, with the stipend of forty
pounds sterling yearly. At the same place, G nifty dh ap
Tudor, Ithel Fychan, Ithel ap Blethyn, with many more,
did their homage. Then the prince came to Ruddlan,
where the Lord Richard de Sutton, Baron of Malpas, did
homage and fealty for the said barony of Malpas. Thence
the prince removed to Con way, where Eineon bishop of
Bangor, and David abbot of Maynan, did their homage ; as
did Lewis de Felton, son of Richard Felton, for the lands
which his father held of the prince in Maelor Saesneg, or
English Maelor. John Earl Warren swore homage for the
lordships of Brornfield and Yale, and for his lands in Hope-
Dale,
T

* Welsh Chron. p. 381.

274 HISTORY OF WALES.

Dale, at London, in the chapel of the Lord John de
Kirkby, who was some time bishop of Ely ; as also a while
after, Edmund Mortimer, for his lands of Ceri and
Cydewen.

Besides all these, there paid homage to the prince of
Wales, at Chester, Sir Gruffydh Llwyd, son of Rhys ap
Gruffydh ap Ednyfed Fychan, a stout and valiant gentle-
man, though not very fortunate, and as Florus says of
Sertorius, he was magnce quidem, sed calamitosce. virtu tis.
He was knighted by King Edward the First, upon his
bringing the first news of the queen's safe delivery of a son
at Caernarvon castle, the king holding then a parliament at
Ruddlan. This Sir Gruffydh continued for some time on
the best terms with the king of England, but observing at
length the intolerable oppression and tyranny exercised by
the English officers, especially by Sir Roger Mortimer,
Lord of Chirk and Justice of North Wales, towards his
countrymen the Welsh, he became so much concerned and
discontented at these unwarrantable practices, that he
broke out into open rebellion against the English ; and the
better to effect what he purposed, he treated with Sir
Edward Bruce, brother to Robert, then king of Scotland,
who had conquered Ireland, to bring or send over some
forces to assist him in his design against the English.

Nothing, however, was concluded upon, and the whole
treaty came to nothing : yet Sir Gruffydh, though without
any hopes of assistance from the Scots, would not lay aside
what he had once undertaken; and therefore, having ga-
thered all the forces he could, he commenced a desperate
warfare, and almost in an instant over-ran all North Wales
and the Marches, seizing upon the various castles and
strongholds through the country: but all this was to no
purpose ; for as the most violent storm is quickly over, so
Sir Gruffydh's army became spent, and then being met
with by a strong detachment of English, his party was
easily discomfited, and himself taken prisoner.

A. D. 1322. The same year, being the 15th of the reign of King
Edward the Second, his eldest son Edward, born at Wind-
sor, in a parliament holden at York was created Prince of
Wales, Duke of Aquitaine, and Earl of Chester. This
prince succeeded his father in the kingdom of England, by
the name of Edward the Third, one of the greatest and
most powerful monarchs that ever sat upon the English
throne.

1343. Edward, born at Woodstock, eldest son and heir to King
Edward the Third, was created Prince of Wales upon the

12th

HISTORY OF WALES. 275

12th day of May, in the 17th year of his father's reign,
being then about fourteen years of age. He was a prince of
incomparable qualifications, but so much superior in martial
affairs, that upon account of the several actions he was en-
gaged in, and the circumstance of his wearing black armour,
he was always mentioned by the name of Black Prince. He
took John the French king prisoner at the battle of Poic-
tiers, and in a most signal manner defeated the French
army in the battle of Cressy. He did not live to enjoy the
crown, but died one year before his father in the forty-sixth
year of his age ; no prince was in his life-time more beloved,
nor after his death more lamented by the English nation ;
and had he lived to ascend the throne, no one doubted but
that he would have exceeded, as to all qualifications, the
most glorious renown of the greatest of his ancestors.

In the time of Edward the Third lived Sir Tudor
Vaughan ap Grono, descended lineally from Ednyfed
Vaughan, a person as to estate, power, and interest, one of
the chief in North Wales. Upon some motive, either of
ambition or fancy, he assumed to himself the honour of
knighthood, requiring all people to call and style him Sir
Tudor ap Grono, as if he had prognosticated and foreseen,
that out of his loins should arise those that should have
power to confer that honour. King Edward, being in-
formed of his unparalleled presumption, sent for Sir Tudor,
and asked him with what confidence he durst invade his
prerogative, by assuming the degree of knighthood without
his authority : Sir Tudor replied, that by the laws and
constitution of King Arthur, he had the liberty of taking
upon himself that title, in regard he had those three qualifi-
cations, which whosoever was endued with, could by those
laws claim the honour of a knight. First, he was a gentle-
man : secondly, he had a sufficient estate : and thirdly, he
was valiant and adventurous; adding this withal, "If my
valour and hardiness be doubted of, lo, here I throw down
my glove, and for due proof of my courage, I am ready to
fight with any man, whatever he be." The king, approving
and liking well the man's boldness and resolution, was
easily persuaded to confirm the honour of knighthood upon
him. From this Sir Tudor was lineally descended Henry
the Seventh, king of England, who was the son of Edmund
Earl of Richmond, the son of Sir Owen Tudor, son to
Meredith, the son of this Sir Tudor ap Grono.

After the death of the Black Prince, his son Richard,
born at Bourdeaux in France, being but ten years of age,

was
T 2

276 HISTORY OF WALES.

was created prince of Wales at Havering-at-Boure, on the
A.D. 1377. twentietli day of November, and in the fiftieth year of the
reign of his grandfather, Edward the Third, whom he suc-
ceeded in the crown of England.

Henry born at Monmouth, son and heir to Henry the
Fourth, King of England, upon the fifteenth of October, in
the first year of his father's reign, was created prince of
Wales at Westminster, who succeeded his father in the
English crown by the name of Henry the Fifth.

Whilst Richard the Second reigned, one Owen* ap
Gruflfydh Fychan, descended of a younger son of Gruffydh
ap Madoc Lord of Bromfield, excited great national interest.
This Owen had been educated in one of the Inns of Court,
where he became barrister at law, and was afterwards in
very great esteem and credit, served King Richard, and
continued with him at Flint Castle, till at length the king
was taken by Henry Duke of Lancaster. Between this
Owen and Reginald Lord Grey of Ruthyn there happened
much difference touching a common lying between the
lordship of Ruthyn, whereof Reginald was owner, and the
lordship of Glyndyfrdwy in the possession of Owen, whence
he borrowed the name of Glyndwr.f During the reign of

Richard

* He was the son of Gruffydh Fychan ap Gruffydh o Rnddalt ap Madog Fychan ap
Madog Glof ap Gruffydh Varwn Gwyn Arglwydd Dinas Bran ap Madog ap Gruffydh
Maelor ap Madog ap Meredydd ap Bleddjn ap Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. His mother
was named Helen, and was the eldest daughter of Thomas ap Lhewelyn, a lineal
descendant of Rhys ap Tewdwr, Prince of South Wales, hy Eleanor G»">ch, daughter of
Philip ap Ivor, Lord of Iscoed, in Cardiganshire, by Catherine, daughter of the last
Lhewelyn, hy Eleanor, daughter of Simon de Montford.

f Mr. Pennant describes the estate to which Owen Glyndwr retired, as situate in the
valley of the Dee, three miles below Corwen, and states, that the spirited chieftain was
there visited by lolo Goch, and gives the Bard's description (in his invitation poem) of
Sycbarth, the seat of Glyndwr, as referring to the above estate. *' lolo Goch," he says,
" the celeb. ated poet of this period resided here for some time. He came, on a pressing
invitation from Owain, who, knowing the mighty influence of this order of men over the
ancient Britons, made his house, as lolo says, a sanctuary for bards. He made them the
instruments of his future preparations, and to prepare the minds of the people against the
time of his intended insurrection. From lolo I borrow the description of the seat of the
chieftain when it was in full splendour. He compares it in point of magnificence to
Westminster Abbey ; and informs us, that it had a gate house, and was surrounded with
a moat; that within were nine halls, each furnUhed with a wardrobe, I imagine filled
with the clothes of his retainers, according to the custom of those days. Near the house,
on a verdant bank, was a wooden house, supported on posts and covered with tiles : it
contained four apartments, each subdivided into two, designed to lodge the guests. Here
was a church, in form of a cross, with several chapels. The seat was surrounded with
every convenience for good living and every support to hospitality ; a park, warren, and
pigeon house; a mill, orchard, and vineyard; and fish-pond, filled with pike and
gwyniads — the last introduced from the lake at Bala ; a heronry, which was a concomitant
to the seat of every great man, supplied him and his guests with game for the sport of
falconry. A place still remains that retains the name of his park: it extends about a mile
or two beyond the scite of his house, on the left-hand of the valley. The vestiges of the
house are small ; the moat is very apparent ; the measurement of the area it inclosed is

HISTORY OF WALES. 277

»

Richard the Second, Owen, as being a courtier, and in no
mean esteem with the king, overpowered Reginald, who was
neither so well befriended at court, nor so much beloved in
the country as Owen was ; but after King Richard had been
deposed, the scene was altered, and Reginald being then
better befriended than Owen, entered upon the common,
which occasioned Owen, in the first year of Henry the
Fourth, to make his complaint in parliament against him,

for

46 paces by 26 paces. There is the appearance of a wall on the outside, which was
continued to the top of a great mount, on which stood the wooden house. On the other
side, but at a greater distance, 1 had passed by another mount of the same kind, called
Hendom, which probably might have had formerly a building similar to that described
by the bard. This, perhaps, was a station of a guard, to prevent surprise or insult from
the English side. He had much to apprehend from the neighbouring fortress of Dinas
Bran and its appendages, possessed by the Earl of Arundel, a strenuous supporter of the
house of Lancaster. The bard speaks feelingly of the wine, the ale, the braget, and the
white bread, nor does he forget the kitchen, nor tire important officer the cook ; whose
life (when in the foyal service) was estimated by our laws at a hundred and twenty-six
cows. Such was the hospitality of this house, that the place of porter was useless, nor
were locks or bolls known. To sum up all, no one could be hungry or dry at Sycharth,
the name of the place. The bard pays all due praise to the lady of the house and her
offspring."

A gwraig orau o'r gwragedd'!
Gwynn y myd, o'i gwin a'i medd.
Merch eglur, Llin marchawglyw,
Urddol, hael, o reiol ryw.
A'i blant, a ddeuant bob ddau
Nythod teg o bennaethau.

His wife .the best of wives !

Happy am I in her wine and methrglin.

Eminent woman of a knightly family,

Honorable, beneficent, noble.

His children come in pairs, —

A beautiful nest of chieftains.

The Reverend Walter Davies, in an interesting notice of the parish of Llausilin, states,
4hat Mr. Pennant is incorrect as to the loco-position of the Sycharth of lolo Goch. He
says that " Sycharth,1' the seat of Owain Glyndwr, described by lolo Goch, is in the
parish of Llansilin, about 12 miles to the south by east of Glyndy/rdwy. As Owain was
baron of two lordships, no one will deny his having a seat in each; one on the Dee, in
Glyndyfrdwy, the other on the Cynllaith, in this parish. The only question to be
decided is — « In which of the two mansions the chieftain resided when he was visited by
the bard who wrote the poem so fully descriptive of tire house and its appendages? The
scite of his seat in Llansilin has been called Sycharth time out of mind, and is not known
by any other name: the whole township is called Sycharth in every court leet, and in
every parochial document. The scite of his -residence in Glyndyfrdwy, or the moat
surrounding it, is called Pwll Eingl. Since the publication of Mr. Pennant's tour through
Wales in the year 1773, the idea may have been considerably circulated, that this spot at
Pwll Eingl must have been the Sycharth described by loloGofh, as it was never suspected
that the illustrious chieftain had any other baronial mansion than that in the valley
which gave him his surname of .Glyndyfrdwy, and contractedly Glyndwr. At both
places the scite is surrounded by a moat : on the Dee the area enclosed by it is 46 paces
by 26 paces. " It is not on a tumulus .but the ground is a little raised." At Sycharth
the scite is a circle of 30 paces diameter, on the summit of an artificial tumulus, which is
surrounded by a moat, six yards wide and about the same in depth from the top of the
mound. To the west, bordering on the moat, is a propugnaculum (or rampart), about 300

paces

278 HISTORY OF WALES.

for thus divesting him of his right. No redress being found,
the bishop of St. Asaph wished the lords to take care, that
by thus slighting his complaint, they did not irritate arid
provoke the Welsh to an insurrection, to which some of the
lords replied, that they did not fear those rascally bare-
footed people. Glyndwr therefore perceiving how his peti-
tion was slighted in parliament, and finding no other method
to redress himself, having several friends and followers, put
himself in arms against Reginald, and meeting him in the
field, overcame and took him prisoner, and spoiled his
lordship of Rnthyn. Upon this many resorted to him from
all parts of Wales, some thinking him to be in as great
favour now as in King Richard's days ; others persuading
him that now the time was come when the Britons by his
means might again recover the honour and liberties of their
ancestors. Reginald being thus kept prisoner, was very
severely treated by Owen, to terrify him into compliance
with his rebellious proceedings, and was not permitted to
have his liberty until ten thousand marks were paid for his
ransom, whereof six thousand were to be paid upon the
feast of St. Martin, in the fourth year of Henry the Fourth ;
and he was also to deliver up his eldest son with some other
persons of quality as hostages for the remainder. The king,
at the humble suit of Reginald, seeing no other way for his
enlargement, acceded thereto, authorising Sir William de

Roos,

paces from point to point and about 30 paces over, for the purpose of defending the
bridge over the moat when necessary ; the whole on the summit of a natural round
hillock shelving on all sides. « On the Dee, adjoining the scite of the palace, are two
inclosures; one is called Pare Isa, the other Pare. The Pare Isa is small, but the other
Pare is from 70 to 80 acres. In Cynllaith, the next house to Sycharth, on the south-east,
is a place called Pare Sycharth, with a far.m attached to it. This is at the southern end
of an extensive wood, which (occupies the escarpment of a rocky hill, called Pare
Sycharth, and may be the parccwning (the rabbit warren) of the bard. At the northern
end of the same wood are a few houses called Pentre y Cwn, where the master of the
buck-hounds to his barony resided, also his assistants. At Sycharth there is, on the
rivulet jCynliaith, close at the foot of the hillock, whereon the palace stood, a mill, formerly
called Melin Sycharth, but, owing to the grist-mill being lately converted into a fulling-
miJl, it is now called Pandy-Sycharth. On the Dee there are no traces of fish-ponds; at
Sycharth, between the palace and the wood, the ichnography of two fish-ponds, one above
the other, is still visible, though now much filled with an accumulation, in a state of transi-
tion from aquatic vegetables into an imperfect peat : this matter is several feet deep on
the original base of the ponds. The water could not be very abundant ; and what
formerly supplied the ponds has now been diverted uito other channels by the operation
of draining. I trust that it will now be conceded by our neighbours on the banks of the
Dec that Owain Glyndwr was, at least, an inhabitant of Cjinllaith ; especially at the time
he was visited by lolo Goch, who, in after times, by his war songs, roused the hero and
his countrymen to arms. How long his mansions stood at Glyndyfrdwy and Cynllaith
after the fall of the owner is not known ; as they were of timber, and not inhabited, they
must soon have fallen to decay. There are no vestiges at either place. The scite at
Sycharth has of late been ploughed many times, without having any relics discovered.
A few nails and fragments of stones, bearing the marks of ignition, are the only remains
that I saw. It is not probable that the house was burned, as the ploughed soil contains
no fragments of charcoal.

HISTORY OF WALES. 279

Roos, Sir Richard de Grey, Sir William de Willoughby, Sir
William le Zouche, Sir Hugh Huls, as also John Harvey,
William Vans, John Lee, John Langford, Thomas Payne,
and John Elnestow, to treat with Owen and his council, and
to determine as to what they should conceive most expedient
and necessary to be done for his redemption : whereupon,
they consenting to give the sum demanded by Glyndwr for
his deliverance, the king gave licence to Robert Braybroke
bishop of London, as also to Sir Gerard Braybroke the
father, and Sir Gerard the son, then feoffees of divers lord-
ships for this Reginald, to sell the manor of Herteleigh, in
the county of Kent, towards the raising of that money : and
the better to enable him to pay so great a fine, the king was
pleased to grant, that whereas it was enacted, that such
persons who were owners of lands in Ireland, and did not
there reside, should for such their neglect forfeit two parts
of the profits of them to the king ; that notwithstanding this
act, he should forfeit nothing for non-residence there during
the term of six years next ensuing.

This success over the Lord Grey, together with the
numerous resort of the Welsh to him, and the favourable
interpretation of the prophecies of Merlin, which some con-
strued to the advantage of Owen, made the swelling mind of
Glyndwr overflow its banks, and gave him some hopes of
restoring the dominion of this island again to the Britons.
Wherefore he attacked the Earl of March, who met him
with a numerous party of Herefordshire men; and when
they came in contact, the Welshmen proved too powerful,
and having killed above a thousand men of the English,
they took the Earl of March prisoner. King Henry, upon
this, was frequently requested to ransom the Earl, but to no
purpose ; for whether by reason that Mortimer had a better
title to the crown than himself, he being the next heir in
blood after King Richard, who was as yet living, or because
of some other private reason, the king would never give ear
to any proposal for his redemption, alleging that he wilfully
threw himself into the hands of Glyndwr. About the
middle of August, however, to correct the presumptuous
attempts of the Welsh, the king went in person with a great
army into Wales ; but by reason of the extraordinary con-
tinuance of bad weather, which some attributed to the magic
of Glyndwr, he was glad to return safe.

The Earl of March perceiving that he was not likely to
obtain his liberty by the means of King Henry, either out of
compliance, by reason of his tedious captivity, or on account
of affection to the young lady, agreed to take part with

Owen

280 HISTORY OF WALES.

Owen against the King of England, and to marry his
daughter; with them joined the Earl of Worcester, and his
brother the Earl of Northumberland, with his son the valiant
Lord Percy ; who conspiring to depose the King of Eng-
land, in the house of the archdeacon of Bangor, by their
deputies divided the realm amongst them, causing a
tripartite indenture to be made, and to be sealed with each
one's seal : by which covenant all that country lying between
the Severn and the Trent, southward, was assigned to the
Earl of March ; all Wales, and the lands beyond the Severn,
westward, were appointed to GJyndwr; and all from the
Trent northward to the Lord Percy. This was done (as
some said) through a foolish credit they gave to a vain
allegorical prophecy, as though King Henry was the exe-
crable mouldwarp, and they three the dragon, the lion, and
the wolf which should pull him down, and distribute his
Jdngdom among themselves. After they had exhibited
articles of their grievances to King Henry, and divulged
their reasons for taking up arms, they at length marched
with all their power towards Shrewsbury to fight the king
and his forces, depending mainly upon the arrival of Glyn-
dwr and his Welshmen : but the matter was gone so far,
that whether he came in or no they must fight, and so both
armies being confronted, the king's party prevailed, young
Percy being slain upon the spot, and besides most of the
English of quality, Douglas, who with a party of Scotch
had come to the aid of the confederates, was taken prisoner,
but afterwards honourably set at liberty by the intercession
of the prince of Wales. In the mean time the Earl of
Northumberland was marching forward with a great
party from the North; but the king having settled mat-
ters about Shrewsbury, proceeded to York, and sending
to him to lay down his arms, he voluntarily submitted and
dismissed his forces. Then the king, returning from York-
shire, determined to pass over to North Wales to chastise
the presumptuous practices of the disobedient Welsh, who,
after his departure from Shrewsbury, had made inroads
into the marches, and done much injury to his English
subjects; but other business of greater consequence inter-
vening, he detached his son the prince of Wales, who took
the castle of Aberystwyth, which was soon again retaken by
Owen Glyndwr, who placed in it a strong garrison of
Welshmen. In the battle of Huske, fought upon the
fifteenth of March, the Welsh received a very serious blow
from the prince's men, Glyndwr's son being taken prisoner,
jbesides fifteen hundred others taken and slain. After this,

we

HISTORY OF WALES. 281

hear little of Glyndwr, excepting that he continued to vex
and harass the English upon the marches, to the tenth year
of King Henry's reign, when he is stated to have miserably
ended his life; being, as Hollingshed reporteth, towards
his latter days, driven to such extremity, that, despairing of
all comfort, he fled and lurked in caves and other the most
solitary places, fearing to shew his face to any creature, till
at length being starved for hunger and lack of sustenance,
he miserably ended his life.*

These rebellious practices of Glyndwr, highly exasperated
King Henry against the Welsh, insomuch that several
unmerciful laws were enacted, relating to Wales, which in
effect destroyed all the the liberties of the Welsh subjects.
They were made incapable of purchasing any lands, or to
be elected members of any county or borough, and to
undertake any office, whether civil or military, in any town
incorporated. If any suit at law happened betwixt an
Englishman and a Welshman, the former could not be
convicted, but by the sentence of an English judge, and the
verdict of an English jury ; besides that any Englishman
who married a Welshwoman was thereby forthwith dis-
franchised from all the liberties of an English subject. It
was further enacted, that no Welshman should be in
possession of any castle, or other place of strength, and that
no victuals or armour should be brought into Wales, with-
out a special warrant from the king or his council ; and
further, that no Welshman was capable of undertaking the
office of justice, chamberlain, sheriff, or any other place of
trust in any part of Wales, notwithstanding any patent or
license heretofore given to the contrary : these, with many
other most rigorous and unjust laws, particularly that forbid-
ding any Welshman to bring up his children to learning, or
to bind them apprentices to any trade or occupation, were
enacted by the king against the Welsh; so that nothing
appeared to satisfy his displeasure, but that a whole nation
should be wrongfully oppressed, for the fault and mis- „

carriage of one person. It might have been supposed that
this was not a politic method of securing a nation in its
allegiance, which, upon slighter affronts, had been ac-
customed to defend its privileges ; and, therefore, the quiet
disposition of the Welsh about this time has been attributed
to the moderation of Henry the Fifth, who within a little
time succeeded his father in the crown of England.

Contemporary

* There is, however, good authority for believing that Owain, passing his time in,
seclusion, ended his days with one of his daughters, who was married and resided in the
marches of South Wales, on the Herefordshire border.

282 HISTORY OF WALES.

Contemporary with Glyndwr was Sir David Gam, (so called
because he had but one eye,) the son of Lhewelyn ap Howel
Vaughan, of Brecknock, by Mawd, the daughter of lefan ap
Rhys ap Ifor of Elvel. He was a staunch partizan of the
Duke of Lancaster, and for that reason became a mortal
enemy to Glyndwr, who having been educated, as before
stated, at one of the inns of Court, was preferred to the
service of King Richard the Second, who, as Walsingham
says, made him his Scutifer, or shield-bearer: and being
informed that his master Richard was deposed and mur-
dered, and withal being provoked by several wrongs and
affronts done him by his neighbour the Lord Grey, of
Ruthyn, whom King Henry greatly countenanced, and
looking upon Henry as an usurper, he caused himself to be
proclaimed Prince of Wales. To give a better colour to
the matter, he feigned himself to be descended, by a
daughter, from Lhewelyn ap Gruffydh, the last prince;
whereas, in truth, he came paternally but from a younger
brother of the house of Powys : and, as ambition has no
moderation, so Glyndwr for a time acted the part of a
prince, and summoned a parliament to meet at
Machynlleth,* whither the nobility and gentry of Wales
appeared,, and among the rest Sir David Gam, but not
upon the same design with the rest, for it was his intention
in this meeting to murder Glyndwr : but the plot being
discovered, and Sir David secured, he would have been
immediately executed, had not Glyndwr's best friends, and
the greatest supporters of his cause, pleaded in his behalf,
by whose intercession he was prevailed upon to grant Sir
David both his life and liberty, on condition he would ever
after continue true and loyal to him. Sir David promised
very loudly, but with the reservation never to perform ; for
as soon as he came to his own country, where he was a
person of very considerable sway and interest, he greatly
annoyed and molested those that in any way favoured or
adhered to Glyndwr. While Sir David lay in prison at
Machynlleth, for his attempt against Owen's life, this
Englyn was made upon him.

Dafydd Gam dryglam dreigl, iti yn wan frwydr,

Fradwr Rissiart Bhrenin,

Llwyr y rhoes Diawl (hawn hwyl Flin

Y fath ystad) ei fys ith Din.

i. e. David Gam thou wilt be a wanderer and an ill end

will

* The building, now converted into a stable, in which this memorable synod was
convened, is still to be seen.

HISTORY OF WALES. 283

will come to tliee. Thou wilt be weak in battle, thou
traitor to King Richard. So eagerly vexatious in thy
station that the devil wholly entered thy heart.

Glyndwr having received information that Sir David
Gam, contrary to the promise he had made at his release,
endeavoured by all means to destroy his interest among the
Welsh, entered the marches, and, among other tokens of his
indignation, burned the house of Sir David, and as the
report goes, calling to him one of Sir David's tenants, spake
to him thus merrily in verse : —

O Gvveli di wr coeh Gam
Yn ymofyn y Girnigwen
Dywed ei bod hi Tan y Lan
A nod y glo ar ei Phenn.

i. e. If thou seest a red-haired, squint-eyed* man looking
for the lost sheep, tell him she is below the hill, and he may
know her as she is marked with fire.

But Sir David had the good fortune to escape his
vengeance, and was constrained to retire to England, where
he lived for the most part at court, till the death of Glyn-
dwr.

When King Henry the Fifth went with an army to France
against the French king, Sir David Gam brought into his
service a numerous party of stout and valourous Welshmen,
who upon all occasions evinced their courage and resolution.
In the battle of Agincourt, news being brought to the king
that the French army was advancing towards him, and that
they were exceedingly numerous, he detached Captain
Gam, to observe their motions, and to review their number.
The Captain, having narrowly eyed the French, found them
to be twice the number of the English, but not being in the
least dismayed at such a multitude, he returned to the king,
who enquiring of him what the number of the French might
be, he made answer, " An't please you my liege, they are
enough to be killed, enough to run away, and enough to be
taken prisoners." King Henry was well pleased, and much
encouraged with this resolute and undaunted answer of Sir
David, whose tongue did not express more valour than his
hands performed: for in the heat of battle, the king's
person being in danger, Sir David charged the enemy
with that eagerness and masculine bravery, that they were
glad to give way, and thus secured the king, though with
the loss of much blood, and also with the loss of his life,

himself

* Squint-eyed is Gam in Welsh, from which he took his name, and his family continues
it to this day, and all squint with one eye. Sir David Gam was the person whom Shak-
speare described in the character of Captain Fluelin. — Note to the original edition.

284 HISTORY OF WALES.

himself and his son-in-law Roger Vaughan, with his kins-
man Walter Llwyd of Brecknock, having received their
mortal wounds in that encounter. When the king heard of
their condition, and that they were past all hope of recovery,
he came to them, and in recompense of their good services,
knighted them all three in the field, where they soon after
died ; and thus ended the life, but not the fame, of the
signally valiant Sir David Gam.

Edward of Westminster, the sole issue of that unfortunate
prince King Henry the Sixth, by Margaret,, the daughter
of Rayner Duke of Anjou, and titular king of Jerusalem,
Sicily, and Arragon, was created Prince of Wales, in a
parliament held at Westminster on the fifteenth day of
March, in the thirty-second year of his father's reign.
When the battle was lost at Tewkesbury, this young prince
purposed to have made his escape by flight, but being
unfortunately taken, and brought to the presence of King
Edward the Fourth, who then sat upon the throne, he made
such resolute and unexpected replies that he smote him on
the mouth with his gauntlet ; and then tvis brother Richard
(the Crook-back) ran him into the heart with his dagger.*

Edward, born in the Sanctuary at Westminster, the
eldest son of King Edward the Fourth, was, after his
father's expulsion out of England, in the forty-ninth year of
King Henry the Sixth, created Prince of Wales and jCarl of
Chester, in the eleventh year of his father's reign. On the
death of Edward the Fourth, this young prince being then
at Ludlqw, in the marches of Wales, was immediately ,sent
for to London, and proclaimed king of England, but never
lived to be crowned; for his uncle Richard Duke of Glou-
cester, who was appointed his protector, most villainously
procured that he should be murdered, together with his
brother the Duke of York, and afterwards was himself
proclaimed and crowned king,

Edward the Fourth, in his wars against Henry the Sixth,
was very much assisted by the Welsh; in recompense of
which service he purposed to reform matters in Wales, so
that the intolerable oppression which they had hitherto
endured should be removed: to which end he meant to
establish a court within the said Principality, and consti-
tuted John bishop of Worcester president of the prince's
council in the marches ; who, together with Anthony Earl
of Rivers, sat in the town-hall of Shrewsbury, and consti-
tuted certain ordinances for the public good and tranquillity

of

* This account, the reader will observe, differs from that of the English historians in a
slight degree, inasmuch as they make the Duke of Clarence and others participators in
this murderous tragedy.

HISTORY OF WALES. 285

of that place: but the matter proceeded no farther, for the
troubles and disquietness of his kingdom coming heavily
upon him, and the brevity of his reign after his establish-
ment not permitting, he was forced to leave that to others
which he had himself intended to bring about.

Edward, born at Middleham, near Richmond, in the
county of York, the only son of King Richard the Third,
was at ten years of age created by his father Prince of
Wales, but he died soon after.

Arthur, the eldest son of King Henry the Seventh, born
at Winchester, was in the seventh year of his father's reign
created Prince of Wales. About the fifteenth year of his
age, being then newly married to Katherine the Infanta of
Spain, he was sent by his father into Wales, that by his
presence he might the better keep that country in awe.*
With him King Henry sent Dr. William Smith, afterwards
made Bishop of London, as president of his council, to-
gether with Sir Richard Pool, his chamberlain, Sir Henry
Vernon, Sir Richard Crofts, Sir David Philip, Sir William
Udal, Sir Thomas Englefield, Sir Peter Newton, and
others, to be his counsellors and directors in his manage-
ment of affairs; but the prince had not continued long
there before he fell sick at his castle at Ludlow, of which
indisposition he shortly after died, and wras buried with
great solemnity in the cathedral church of Worcester. The
creating of his brother Henry (Duke of York) Prince of
Wales in his stead was deferred for about the space of a
month, to discover whether the Lady Katherine was with
child by Prince Arthur : but when it was ascertained that
she had not conceived, on the eighteenth day of February,
in the nineteenth year of his father King Henry the Seventh's
reign, Henry Duke of York was created Prince of Wales.

King Henry the Seventh, being by his grandfather Owen
Tudor of Welsh descent, and having sufficiently experi-
enced the affection of the Welsh towards him, first of those
who, upon his first landing, opportunely joined him under
Sir Rhys ap Thomas, and then of those, who under the
command of Sir William Stanley, Lord of Bromfield, Yale,
and Chirkland, aided him in Bosworth Field, could not in
honour and equity but bear some regard to the miserable
state and condition of the Welsh under the English govern-
ment : and therefore this prudent prince, finding the calami-
ties of the Welsh to be insupportable, and seeing what
grievous and unmerciful laws were enacted against them by
his predecessors, took occasion to redress and reform the

same,

* Wokins, p. 789.

28G HISTORY OF WALES.

same, and granted to the Welsh a charter of liberty and
immunity, whereby they were released from the cruel op-
pression which, since their subjection to the English
government, they had most cruelly sustained. Seeing also
that the birth and quality of his grandfather (Owen Tudor)
was called in question, and that he was by many upbraided
of being of mean and ignoble parentage, King Henry
directed a commission to the Abbot of Lhan Egwest, Dr.
Owen Pool, Canon of Hereford, and John Kins:, Herald at
Arms, to make inquisition concerning the pedigree of the
said Owen ; who coming to Wales, made a diligent enquiry
into this matter, and by the assistance of Sir John Leyaf,
Guttyn Owen (Bardh), Gruffydh ap Lhewelyn ap Efan
Fychan, and others, in the consultation of the British books
of pedigrees, they drew up an exact genealogy of Owen
Tudor, which upon their return they presented to the king.

Edward, son to Henry the Eighth by the Lady Jane
Seymour, his third wife, was born at Hampton Court on
the twelfth of October; and upon the eighteenth of the said
month was created Prince of Wales, Duke of Cornwall, and
Earl of Chester.

King Henry the Seventh had already abrogated those
intolerable laws which the former kings of England, particu-
larly Henry the Fourth, had made against the Welsh ; and
now, King Henry the Eighth, willing to make a complete
reformation of what his father had wisely begun, thought it
necessary, for the good and tranquillity of both nations, to
make the Welsh subject to the same laws and the same form
of government with the English. He understood that the
usual hostilities and depredations were still continued and
kept up by both sides upon the borders ; and though his
father had eased the yoke of the Welsh, yet he perceived
that it contributed but little towards the abolition of that
inveterate and implacable envy and animosity which raged
in the marches: therefore, to remedy this otherwise una-
voidable evil, he concluded that the only effectual method
was to incorporate the Welsh with the English, so that
they, being subject to the same laws, might equally fear the
A.D. 1536. violation of them. Accordingly, in the twenty-seventh year
of his reign, an Act of Parliament passed for that purpose,
which, together with another Act in the thirty-fifth year of
his reign, made a complete incorporation of the Welsh with
the English, which union has had that blessed effect that it
has in course of time dispelled all those unnatural differ-
ences which were previously so frequent and irreconcilable.

When the Reformation was first established in Wales it

was

HISTORY OF WALES. 287

was a great inconvenience to the common people, who were
nearly all unacquainted with the English tongue, that the
Bible was not transtated into their native language. Queen
Elizabeth was soon aware of the inconvenience which the
Welsh suffered for want of such a translation; and therefore,
in the eighth year of her reign, an Act of Parliament was A.D. 1569.
passed, whereby the Bishops of Hereford, St. David, St.
Asaph, Bangor, and Llandaff, were ordered to take care
that the Bible, containing the Old and New Testaments,
with the Book of Common Prayer, and Administration of
the Sacraments, should be truly and with precision trans-
lated into the British or Welsh tongue, and that the same
so translated, being by them perused and approved, should
be printed to such a number at least, as that every cathedral,
collegiate and parish church, and chapel of-ease, within
those dioceses where that tongue was vulgarly spoken,
might be supplied before the first of March, in the year
1576 : and from that time forward that the Welsh Divine
Service should be used in the British tongue in all places
throughout those dioceses, where the Welsh was commonly
spoken, after the same manner as it was used in the English
tongue ; and that the charge of procuring the said Bible
and Common Prayer should be equally apportioned betwixt
the parson and the parish, each of those two parties being
obliged to pay one-half of the expense ; and that the price
of the book should be set by the aforesaid bishops, or by
three of them at the least. This act of parliament was not
punctually observed ; for the Old Testament was wholly
omitted, and only the New, with the Book of Common
Prayer and Administration of the Sacraments, then trans-
lated, which translation was chiefly owing to Richard bishop
of St. David, who was assisted by William Salusbury, a
perfect critic in the Welsh tongue, and one excellently con-
versant in all British antiquities: but in the year 1588,
Dr. William Morgan, first bishop of Llandaff, and then of
St. Asaph, undertook the translation of the whole Bible;
and by the help of the Bishops of St. Asaph and Bangor,
Gabriel Goodman, Dean of Westminster, David Powel,
D. D. Edmund Price, Archdeacon of Merioneth, and
Richard Vaughan, he effectually finished it. This was of
great advantage to the Welsh, who could now read the whole
Scripture in their own native tongue ; by which means they
received a clearer demonstration of the corruptions of the
Church of Rome, when they saw many of their principles
apparently contradicting, and others not very firmly founded
upon, the Holy Scriptures: and on the other hand they

perceived

HISTORY OF WALES.

perceived the necessity and advantage of the Reformation,
for they easily discovered that the whole doctrine of the
Church of England was sound and orthodox, and that they
were now happily delivered from that popish slavery under
which their forefathers ignorantly laboured ; and therefore,
being convinced of the truth of their religion, they became,
and continued generally, very strict adherents to, and firm
observers of, the doctrine and discipline of this church.

Here, by the bye, I cannot but observe what a reverend
writer has lately insinuated, relating to the Christian religion
planted in Wales : for that learned person, in his funeral
sermon upon Mr. Gouge, would fain induce the world to
believe that Christianity was very corrupt and imperfect
among the Welsh, before it was purified by that (whom he
terms apostolical) man : whereas it is notoriously evident,
that since the Reformation was settled in that country, and
the Bible, with the Book of Common Prayer, was translated
into the Welsh tongue, no pla^e has been more exact in
keeping to the strict rubrick and constitution of the Church
of England, both as to the substance and form of worship.
But what may more truly be attributed to Mr. Gouge is,
that since his travels into Wales, and the propagating of his
doctrine among the ignorant of that country, dissent, which
before had scarcely taken root, hath as it were daily
increased.

Henry, eldest son of King James the First, being arrived
at the age of seventeen years, was created prince of Wales
on the thirtieth of May, in 1610, but he dying of a malig-
nant fever about two years after, his brother Charles, then
fifteen years of age, was created Prince in his room in 1615.
This new creation was celebrated in the town of Ludlow,
and in the city of London, with great triumph ; and the
more to honour this solemnity, the king made twenty-five
Knights of the Bath, all of them peers or the sons of peers;
and the Inns of Court, to express their joy, elected out of
their body forty of the principal gentlemen to perform
solemn justs and barriers, as in the tournaments of former
times.

Charles, eldest son of King Charles the First, by
Henrietta Maria, daughter to King Henry the Fourth of
France, was born May 29, 1630, and afterwards created
Prince of Wales.

Subsequent to this period, the title of Prince of Wales
has been borne by several of the British Princes when next
in succession to the Throne ; and having been borne by our
late most gracious Sovereign King George the Fourth, until

he

HISTORY OF WALES. 289

he commenced his reign on the death of his revered father,
which took place the 29th day of January, 1820, it has
since that period remained in abeyance.

Since the happy incorporation of the Welsh with the
English, the history of both nations as well as the people
is united; and therefore I shall not repeat that which is so
copiously and frequently delivered by the English his-
torians ; but shall conclude with Dr. Heylyn,^-" That since
the Welsh have been incorporated with the English, they
have shelved themselves most loyal, hearty, and affection-
ate subjects of the state; cordially devoted to their king,
and zealous in defence of their laws, liberties, and reli-
gion, as well as any of the best of their fellow -subjects."

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES,

&c.

CAERNARVONSHIRE.

I HIS county is the most rugged and truly alpine district in
Wales : it is surrounded by the sea on all sides except the east,, where
it joins Denbighshire, and a part of the south contiguous to Meri-
onethshire. Its figure is very irregular, with a great peninsulated
point running out to the south-west or Irish sea, and separated from
Anglesea by the isthmus of Menai. The general surface of the
country is very mountainous, and the vales for the most part narrow,
with hills rising very abruptly from the skirts of small vallies into
stupendous mountains, intersecting each other in all directions, af-
fording, however, an ample sustenance for numerous herds of cattle
and sheep, which are fed in great numbers on the mountains, being
attended by their owners, who for the season reside in temporary huts,
wherein they make butter and cheese, which, with a little oatmeal
and the produce of the dairies, constitute their daily food. The
prospects around are rude and savage in the extreme, yet not entirely
destitute of some mixture of beauty, particularly the vales, which
admit the common varieties of wood, water, and meadow. In some
of the lakes are found the char, and the gwiniad (another alpine fish),
with many rare vegetables found on the most elevated parts of Snow-
don. Some parts of the county afford lead and copper, and some
excellent quarries of stone for hones and slates, while other parts are
celebrated for the produce of oats, barley, and black cattle, of which
vast numbers are exported annually ; together with great quantities
of fish, especially herrings, which are caught on the shores of the
county.

CAERNARVON, OR CAER YN ARVON,

Is the ancient Segontium of the Romans, mentioned by Antoninus as
a Roman station in the time of Constantine. Matthew Paris informs
us that the body of Constantius, the father of that emperor, was found
buried therein 1283. The town is situate in the parish of Llan-
beblig, a church dedicated to Saint Peblic, who lived about the
middle of the fifth century ; and here is a new chapel built, dedicated
to Saint Mary. The church is a large building in the form of a
cross, and is situate near the walls of Old Segontium, a short distance
to the south-east of the town. Richard the Second bestowed this

v 2 church

A TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

church, and the chapel of Caernarvon, on the nuns of Saint Mary's in
Chester, in consequence of their poverty.* In the church is an altar-
tomb to the memory of William Griffith, Esq. son of Sir William
Griffith, of Penrhyri, and his wife Margaret, daughter of John Wynn
ab Meredith, Esq. of Gwydir. The figures are in white marble, and
very well sculptured : he died Nov. 28, 1587, and she in 1593, when
the tomb was erected by her father. It is probable that the large
nouse called Plas Mawr, in the town of Caernarvon, was built by him,
as the initials of his name, W. G. and those of his wife, M. G. are
over the south-west door. It appears that Caer-Segorit (or Old
Caernarvon) was anciently the seat of the Princes of Wales, for King
Cadvan resided here in 650, where also Cadwallo his son, who was
so great a scourge to the Saxons, and his grandson Cadwaladr, suc-
cessively resided. Caradog also, and his son Octavius, who was
made Governor of Britain by Constantine the Great, resided here
prior to that time ; and Helen, wife of the Emperor Maximus,f and
daughter of the said Octavius, was born at Caer-Segont. Publicius,.
the founder of Llanbeblig, is said to have been the son of the said
Maximus and Helen ; and Cynan Meriadog, cousin to the said
Helen, succeeded his uncle Octavius as Duke of Cornwall. It is also
said that Prince Roderic resided here in A. D. 750. It is probable
that Old Caer yn Arvon, prior to the time of Edward the First, was
situate near Hen Waliau.

The town is built in the form of a square, and enclosed on three
sides by an embattled stone wall : the streets are at right angles with
the principal one, in which is the town hall. The chief object which
attracts our attention is the noble castle, the most magnificent in
Wales, built by Edward the First, and probably the town at the same
time, with the revenues of the see of York, then vacant. The castle
defends the town on the south, and has a narrow deep ditch in front
on the north side : in its west wall are three round towers, and two
more on each side, with a narrow gate or entrance, over which is
placed a bareheaded figure with flowing locks, holding in his left hand
a sword, which he draws with his right, or perhaps is sheathing, in
allusion to the termination of the Welsh war, and a defaced shield is
under his feet. This gate leads to a narrow oblong court : at the west
end is a polygon tower, with three hexagon towers above, on the
embattlements of which are eagles, whence it had the name of Eagle
Tower, which is the admiration of all lovers of architecture: the
eagles on the tower are supposed to be Roman, and to have been
found at Segontium by Edward. John de Havering was the first
governor, and Adam d& Wetenhall succeeded. The constable and
the captain had twenty-four soldiers allowed them for the defence of
the place : this small garrison was only during peaceable times. In
Cromwell's time, Captain Swanley, a parliament man, took the town.

In
* Pennant, and Sebright MSS. f Called by the Welsh Macsen Wledig.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 3

In 1644 the royalists retook the place ; finally General Mytton and
Colonels Mason, Carter, and Twisleton, retook it in 1648, when Sir
John Owen was defeated near Llandegai, after which North Wales
entirely submitted to the parliament. In the Eagle tower before
alluded to is a room eleven feet by seven, in which the unfortunate
Edward the Second, the first English Prince of Wales, was born on
the 25th of April, 1284. A passage only separates this room from
another semi-circular apartment, called the Nursery. On the south
side, next the river Seiont, are three hexagon and octagon towers,
with three others on the north ; to the east is a magnificent entrance,
with a lofty round arch, and towers communicating all round by noble
galleries, several of which are surrounded by small towers, peculiar
to this castle. In the north-east corner is a deep well, now nearly
filled up, having near it a round tower, formerly a dungeon. Such is
the external delineation of Caernarvon castle, founded on a rock, and
now almost entire. The outer walls are of white hewn stone, with an
edging of red about the corners and windows, which have a very
pretty effect. There were several English gentlemen introduced into
this town as governors and officers of the castle, by the Kings of
England, after the conquest, a few of whose posterity still remain.
Of this number, no doubt, were the Spicers, Pulestons, Bowmans,
and Bolds ; and the old houses where they lived still go by their
respective names, such as Plas Pilstwn, the present King's Head inn ;
Plas Bowman, the corner of Church-street ; and Plas Spicer, in
Church-street. The town of Caernarvon is increasing in size and
opulence : two large chapels and several new streets have lately been
built ; the Sportsman's Arms Inn and the New Hotel afford every
accommodation of elegance and convenience. The corporation, about
the year 1808, built an elegant town-hall and market-house in the
centre of the town. Very commodious hot and cold baths, with
reading rooms attached, have been recently erected by the Marquis of
Anglesea, who is mayor of the town, and constable of the castle for
life. This town is much frequented by strangers in the summer
season. On the outside of the town walls is a broad and pleasant
terrace along the side of the Menai, extending from the quay to the
north end of the town walls ; and in the evening it is a fashionable
promenade for persons of all descriptions.

The port of Caernarvon is rather dangerous, from the extensive
banks adjacent thereto ; but the harbour is very commodious, and
vessels of six or seven hundred tons ride in security. The quay is
also peculiarly convenient, as large vessels can ride close to it, and
deliver or take in their cargoes. The trade is annually considerably
increasing. Near the quay is the custom-house, well situated for
vessels trading in slates, of which many thousands are exported to
different parts of the empire, and procured from the quarries in the
mountains of Llanberis.

From

4 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

From the top of a rock behind the hotel is a fine view of the town
and castle ; and on a clear day the Isle of Anglesea, Holyhead, and
Paris Mountains may be distinctly seen, like a good map before the
eyes. On the east end of the town is a large suburb, with a wide
street leading to the bridge and ditch, sided with two round towers,
and over the gate an assembly room. On the opposite side of the
river Seiont, about half a mile from the town, are the ruins of a
Roman fort, called Hen Waliau, with the walls entire on three sides,
built of rough stones strongly cemented together, ten feet high by
four thick, enclosing an area of about eighty yards from east to west ;
but the west side, which overhangs the steep bank of the river, has
no trace of a wall. The remains of a Roman road are still visible
from this place to Dinorwig, and a single stone bears the inscription
S. V. C. probably Segontium Urbis Constantine. Here Helen, the
wife of Constantius, had a chapel, and her name is preserved in a
well half a mile below On the river side. Near this place was found,
a few years ago, a pot full of coins, buried under a tree ; afterwards
there were found a large coin of Vespasian in July, 1821, a small
silver one of Anton ins Pius in 1808, and another silver one of Valerian
in 1827. Near Moel y Don is a large bed of a beautiful small-
grained white free-stone, which supplies this part of the country with
whet-stones : it is of the hardest kind, and, if used with oil, is little
inferior to the Turkey oil-stone.

On leaving Caernarvon we proceed in an easterly direction, and, at
the distance of about ten miles, pass through the village of Llanberis,
commonly called Nantberis : the church is dedicated to Saint Peris,
a saint and cardinal, who lived about the middle of the sixth century ;
he was the son of Helig ab Glanog, and retired here to lead a holy
life. There is a well near the church, called Ffynnon Peris, in which
ricketty children and scrofulous and rheumatic persons are bathed ;
and a poor woman, who lives in a cottage near the spring, has a few
pence given her by strangers for shewing one or two large trout which
she feeds in the well. The vale of Llanberis is straight, and nearly
of an equal breadth throughout, with two lakes or pools ; the
upper one is about a mile in length and half a mile broad, wherein
the char fish used to be caught, but the copper works, which are
carried on here to a great extent, have long since destroyed them.
The vale was formerly covered with wood, but at present few trees
remain, though within the memory of old people there wrere extensive
woods of oak ; and Leland, in his Itinerary, makes particular mention
of it. In the time of Howel Dda, Prince of Wales, in the year 940,
the whole county was nearly covered with wood; for we find it
ordered, in the Welsh laws framed by him, that whoever cleared away
the timber from any land should possess the ground so cleared for five
years, independent of the owner. The mountains also abounded in
rlrer, which continued in great numbers till the end of Henry the

Eighth's

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. O

Eighth's reign. On a rocky eminence stands an old building, called
Dolbadarn Castle, consisting of a round tower of 26 feet in diameter
within, and also shewing a few fragments of the walls, and offices on
the summit of a steep hill. The construction of this castle evidently
proves it to be of British origin, perhaps as early as the sixth
century, being mentioned then as being in the possession of Mael-
gwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, during his contention with
the Saxons. In this fortress Owain Goch was confined twenty-six
years, for rebellion against -his brother, Llewelyn ab lorwerth. The
Earl of Pembroke took this castle from the Welsh in 1238, after a
short resistance. A little south of this place is a tremendous cataract,
called Ceunant Mawr, in height about sixty feet, from which precipi-
tates a mountain stream amid numerous rocks, until it falls into a deep
black pool below. North-east of the village is a high perpendicular
mountain, called Glyder Vawr : the ascent is very steep and tiresome,
because of numerous paths, continually obstructed .by rocks and wet,
which render the whole slippery and dangerous. This mountain is
acknowledged to be the most lofty in Caernarvonshire, Snowdon
excepted. In a flat, about half a mile up its ascent, is a small pool,
called Llyn y Cwn, or Pool of I?ogs, rendered remarkable by
Giraldus for a singular kind of trout, perch, and eels, which were all
monocular, i. e. wanting the left eye : but at present the pool seems
destitute of fish of any description. Near the above is Glyder
Vach, /having the summit covered with groups of columnar stones of
vast size, with others lying horizontally upon them. Several pieces
of lava have also been found here, which Mr. Pennant conjectures
.might have originated in some mighty convulsion of nature, which
probably left this mountain so rough and strangely disposed. A
Jlittle tojthe south ;of JLlanberis js

SNpwpON,

Jjhe etymology of the name of which mountain .has given rise to several
:cur,ious conjectures ; but Snowdon is evidently derived from the
Saxpns, .implying a snowy hill, or hill covered with snow, which is not
uncqmtnon ,herie eve^i in the month of June. Humphrey Lhwyd
maintains its signification to be eagles' rocks. ;The ingenious Mr.
Pennant derives it from a compound of Welsh words, as Creigiau'r
Eira, or snowy cliffs; and perhaps both have an equal claim to
originality. From the greatness of the object before us, it is almost
impossible to give an adequate description ; but according to the best
authorities, Snowdon is, from the quay at Caernarvon to the highest
peak, one thousand three hundred yards in perpendicular height
above the level of the sea, and chiefly composed of a very hard stone,
with large coarse crystal, a general attendant on alpine countries.
The Welsh have also a tradition, that these uncouth and savage
mountains formerly abounded with woods, and that they were felled

by

6 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

by Edward the First, on account of affording a secure retreat to the
natives, and convenience for their detached and ambuscading parties.
This idea is confuted by Giraldus Cambrensis, in his description of
this mountain, written nearly one hundred years before the time of
Edward the First, which, besides, perfectly corresponds with its
present appearance. Sir John Wynne, in his History of the Gwydir
Family, says, " Snowdon was in ancient times a royal forest ;" and
still further asserts, that not only Nant-conway was wooded, but all
Caernarvon, Merioneth, and Denbigh shires, were originally but one
forest. This is evidently too general an assertion ; for according to
this author, Owen Glyndwr destroyed the whole in 1400. The
distance of the summit of Snowdon from Caernarvon is rather more
than ten miles, but from Dolbadarn Castle, in the vale of Llanberis,
where the ascent is gradual, a person mounted on a Welsh pony
may, without much difficulty, ride up nearly to the top. To accom-
plish this, the traveller should go from Caernarvon to Dolbadarn
Castle, and after keeping on the side of the lake turn to the left for
Ceunant Mawr, a noble cataract ; from thence ascend a mountain to
a vale called Cwm Brwynog, a very deep and fertile spot; from
thence pass through Bwlch y Cwm Brwynog : here the ascent
becomes very difficult, so that timid travellers are frequently obliged
to clamber on foot, till, by keeping to the right, they arrive at Llyn
Glas, Llyn Nadroed, and Llyn Coch, where the spaces between the
precipices form an agreeable isthmus, leading to a very verdant plain,
where the traveller rests for a short time. After this a smooth path
leads almost to the summit, called Y Wyddfa, or the Conspicuous,
which rises to a point, leaving a small space for a circular wall of loose
stones. The mountain from hence seems propped up by four buttresses,
between which are four deep Cwms or vallies, with three lakes, and
almost a boundless view, taking in a great part of the counties of
Chester and York, with other parts of the north of England, Scotland,
and Ireland, the Isle of Man, and Anglesea. From the same situa-
tion is a view of between twenty and thirty lakes, chiefly in this county
and Merionethshire : of mountains, let it suffice to say the most noted
are Moel y Wyddfa, Y Glyder, Carnedd David, and Carnedd
Llewelyn, which are properly British Alps, having lakes and rivers,
high and craggy precipices, covered with snow a considerable part of
the year, and produce similar plants. The hills appear, as it were,
heaped one on the top of the other ; for after climbing up one you
come to a valley, and most commonly to a lake, and passing by that,
ascend another, and sometimes a third or fourth, before you gain the
summit. The greater part of the rocks which compose these moun-
lains are schistose, hornblende, mica, granite, and porphyry, enclos-
ing considerable blocks of quartz. The plants and animals are nearly
the same as those found about Cader Idris.

To conclude, it may be said, with Mr. Bingley, that were the

traveller's

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 7

traveller's expectation to soar above all former ideas of magnificence,
this mountain will infinitely surpass all conception, as it baffles all
description, for no colour of language can paint the grandeur of the
rising sun observed from this eminence, which is thus beautifully
described by Mr. Pennant :-—" I took much pains to see this prospect
to advantage : I therefore sat up up at a farm house on the west till
about twelve, and walked up the whole way. The night was remark-
ably fine and starry ; towards morn the stars faded away, and left a
short interval of darkness, which soon dispersed by the dawn of day
-=-r-the body of the sun appearing most distinct, with the rotundity of
the moon, before it arose high enough to render its beams too bril-
liant for our sight. The sea, which bounded the western part, was
gilt by its beams, at first in slender streaks, but at length it glowed
with redness. The prospect was disclosed to us, like the gradual
drawing-up of a curtain in a theatre. We saw more and more, till the
heat became so powerful as to attract the mists from the various
lakes, which in a slight degree obscured the prospect. The shadow
of the mountain was flung many miles, and shewed its bicapitated
form ; the Wyddfa making one, Crib y Distill the other head. The
day proved so excessively hot, that the journey cost me the skin of
the lower part of my face before I reached the resting place, after the
fatigue of the morning." Anothsr time, when Mr. Pennant was on
Snowdon, he says—*-" A vast mist enveloped the whole circuit of the
mountain. The prospect down was horrible : it gave an idea of
numbers of abysses, concealed by a thick smoke furiously circulating
around us : very often a gust of wind formed an opening in the
clouds, which gave a fine and distinct vista of lake and valley ; some-
times they opened only in one place, at others in many, at once
exhibiting a most strange and perplexing sight of water, fields, rocks,
or chasms, in fifty different places. They then closed at once, and
left us involved in darkness : in a small space they would separate
again, and fly in wild eddies round the middle of the mountains, rnd
expose in parts both tops and bases clear to our view. We descended
from this varied scene with great reluctance ; and before we reached
our horses, a thunder storm overtook us: its rolling among the
mountains was inexpressibly awful ; the rain uncommonly heavy ; so
that we re-mounted our horses, and gained the bottom with great
risque of being swept away by these sudden waters."

SNOWDON FOREST.

The Welsh princes were greatly attached to the amusements of the
field : hunting, fishing, hawking, and fowling, constituted their chief
pleasure, exercise, and amusement, and the Welsh court was for a
great part of the year migratory, or ambulatory ; that is, the Prince
with his attendants took his rounds, or made regular circuits through
the mountainous parts of Gwynedd, and provision was made by law

for

8 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

for the maintenance of his hounds, horses, and attendants, in the
neighbourhood of the Llys, or Palace. In these excursions Creigiau'r
Eiry,* or Snowdon forest, claimed his chief attention, and seemed to
have been the principal scene of attraction, as appears from a number
of pjaces still bearing the name of Llys, and the different castles and
manors in the neighbourhood of Snowdon which formerly belonged to
the Welsh princes. One of these, Llys yn Dinorwig, in the parish of
Llanddeiniolen,was conferred on Sir Gruffydd Llwyd, of Tregarnedd,
in Anglesea, by Edward the First, then at Rhuddlan Castle, when
he brought him the news of the birth of the first Prince of Wales of
the English line ; and the king's weir of Aberglaslyn, his mills of
Dwyvor in Eivionydd, and lands at Dolbenmaen, and the constable-
ship of Criccieth castle, were bestowed upon Sir Howel y Fywal (or
the Battle-axe), w7ho is reported to have taken John, the French king,
prisoner, and was knighted by the Black Prince at the battle of
Poictiers. The Welsh princes had also a seat and castle at Aber,
where they frequently resided ; another near LJyniau Nantlli, in the
parish of Llanllyvni, called Bala Deulyn, where Edward the First
spent several days after his conquest of Wales. Besides these (Conve-
niences of hunting, this part of North Wales was ysry strong in a
military point of view ; for here we behold a range of lofty mountains,
extending from one sea to the other, i. e. from the great Ormshead
and Penmaenmawr, near Conway, to the Rivals, near Clynnog, on one
side, and Gest, near Penmorva, on the other ; and having, in addition
to these, the Conway as a barrier on the north, and Traethmawr on
the south, over which the Welsh usually retreated when they were
pressed by the English arms. The principal defiles, likewise, which
opened through that range of vast mountains were secured by strong
fortifications. The castle of Diganwy was placed on the banks of the
Conway, nearly opposite to the present town of that name ; that of
Caer Rhun was situated at the foot of Bwlch y Ddan Faen, on the
east side ; with a fort at Aber on the west ; Dolwyddelan nearly
central, as a place of safety between the mountains ; a watch tower at
Nant Ffrangcon; Dolbadarn Castle in Nant Peris, and Castell
Cidwm in Nant y Bettws; with a fort at Dinas Emrys, in Nant-
gwynant; and the passes of Traethmawr and Traethbach, guarded
by the strong castles of Harlech on one side, and Criccieth on the
other ; with a watoh tower at Penrhyn Daudraeth, another at Cesaii
Gyfarch, and a fort at Dolbenmaen : and all these various fortifi-
cations, placed in the most advantageous situations, marked, for a
rude age, great military sagacity.

Leland observes, " All Cregeryri is forest, and no part of Merion-
ethshire lieth in Cregeryri. The best wood of Carnarvonshire is by
Glinne Kledder, and by Glin Llugwy, and by Capel Curig, and at

Llan

* Creigiau'r Eiry : the snowy crags. Eiry, and not Eira, is the expression made use
of by Aneurin and Lly warch ben and other ancient bards.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 9

Llan Peris. Meetly good wood about Conwy Abbey and Penmachno,
and about Coetmore and Coit Park, near Bangor, and in many other
places. In Lleyn and Ivioneth is little wood. Carnarvonshire, about
the shore, hath reasonable good corn, as about a mile upland from
the shore, near Carnarvon. The more upward be Eryri hills, and in
them is very little corn, except oats in some places, and a little barley,
but scanty rye ; if there were, the deer would destroy it. But in
Lleyn and Hiuionith is good corn, both along-shore and almost
through the upland."

Snowdon being a royal forest, warrants were issued by the English
Kings and Princes of Wales for the killing of the deer. " I have
seen one," says Mr. Pennant, fe from the Duke of Suffolk, dated
April 30th, 1552, and another in the first year of Queen Elizabeth,
signed by Robert Townsend, and a third in 1561 by Henry Sidney.
The second was addressed to the master of the game, ranger, and
keeper of the Queen's Highness's Forest of Snowdon, in the county
of Caernarvon. The last extended the forest into the counties of
Merioneth and Anglesea, with the view of gratifying the rapacity of
the favourite Dudley Earl of Leicester, who had by letters patent
been appointed chief ranger of the forest. In consequence, he tyran-
nized over these counties with great insolence, A set of informers
immediately acquainted him that most of the freeholders' estates
might be brought within the boundaries : commissioners were ap-
pointed to enquire of the encroachments and concealments of lands
•within the forest ; juries were impannelled, but their returns were
rejected by the commissioners, as unfavourable to the Earl's designs.
The jurors performed an honest part, and found a verdict for the
county. A new commission was then directed to Sir Richard Bulke-
ley; of Baron Hill, Anglesea, Sir William Herbert, and others, but
this, by the firmness of Sir Richard, was likewise soon superseded.
But in 1578 another was appointed, dependent upon the favourite.
A packed jury was directed to appear at Beaumaris, who went on the
same day to view the marsh at Malldraeth, ten miles distant, and
found that marsh to be in the forest of Snowdon! notwithstanding it
was in another county, and divided from the forest by an arm of the
sea ; because the commissioners had told them that they had met
with an indictment in the Exchequer of Caernarvon, by which they
bad discovered that a stag had been roused in the forest of Snowdon,
in Caernarvonshire, was pursued to the banks of the Menai, that it
swam over that branch of the sea, and was killed at Malldraeth —
Infra Forestam nostram de Snowdon. The Jury appeared in the
Earl's livery, blue, with ragged staves on the sleeves, and were ever
afterwards branded with the title of the Black Jury who sold their
country. Sir Richard, not the least^ daunted with the decision,
continued steady in his opposition to tKe tyrant, and laid before the
Queen the odiousness of the proceedings, and the grievances her

loyal

10 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

loyal subjects the Welsh laboured under by the commission ; so that
in 1579 her Highness was pleased, by proclamation, to recall it." —
Leicester, disappointed in his views, pursued Sir Richard with the
utmost inveteracy, but his designs proved unsuccessful.

It appears from an old Welsh manuscript, containing some of the
poetical compositions of the three following bards, viz. Hugh ab
Risiart ab Davydd, Morns Dwyvech, and Cadwaladr Gruffydd, that
eight gentlemen from Lleyn, in this county, were confined in the
Marshalsea in London, about this time, on account of the forest of
Snowdon : viz. John Griffith, Esq. Griffith Jones, of Nyffryn, Esq.
Hugh Richards, of Cefn Llanfair, Esq. William Griffith, Esq. Row-
land Roberts, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, of Bodvel, Esq. Robert Jones,
Esq. and Thomas Madryn, Esq. There are fourteen stanzas by
Morus Dwyvech, otherwise ab Ivan ab Eineon, and eight by Cad-
waladr Griffith, expressing their own and the general sorrow and
regret on account of the confinement of those gentlemen, and wishing
for their speedy release from imprisonment :— -?

I.

Archa, ni chela wych hwyliad — tra alhvy
Trwy wyllys, a chariad,
Im gwir Ar^lwydd, rwydd roddiad ;
Ystyn, i wyr Lleyn, wellhad.

II.

Arwyth nid adwylh dwediad— di fethol
Duw fytho, yn geidwad,
Wyth rosyn, wyth di-risiad ;
Wyth Baun glew, wyth Ben Gwlad.

Cadwr. Griffith, alias Cadwaladr Ce^ail.

The Northwallian pnnces had, in addition to their title, that of
(t Lord of Snowdon." They had five hardy barons within the tract,
who held of them. Such was the importance of this strong region,
that when Lly welyn was at the last extremity he rejected the proposal
of Edward the First, of a thousand a year and some honourable
county in England, wejl knowing that his principality must terminate
with the cession. No sooner had Edward effected his conquest than
he held a triumphal fair upon Snowdon, and another at Llyniau
Nantlli, then called Bala Deulyn, and adjourned to finish the joys of
his victory by solemn tournaments on the plains of Nevin.

The statement by Giraldus and others, that snow remains on the
hills the whole year, is incorrect. Sir John Wynne asserts that
Eleanor, King Edward's queen, and William Sutton the Justice (who
dealt hardly with the gentry of North Wales), took by force, from
the Welsh princes' brothers and relatives, many of their manors and
possessions in the vicinity of Snowdon.

Further particulars respecting Snowdon, and the appearance and
state of this county in the time of the rebellion of Owain Glyndwr,

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 11

and the civil wars of York and Lancaster, are given by Sir John
Wynne, in his History of the Gwydir Family. Speaking of the
enmities and dissentions between different Welsh families in Caernar-
vonshire, about the year 1400, and in particular of the violent con-
tentions between two petty chieftains, viz. Howel ab Ivan ab Rh$-s
Gethin, who lived at Dolwyddelen castle, and one David ab Jenkin,
who occupied the rock of Carregy Gwalch, near Gwydir, he observes,
that David ab Jenkin, finding that he was unable any longer to
contend with his adversary, was compelled to leave the country and
go to Ireland, where he remained for about a year. " In the end
(says Sir John) he returned in the summer time, having himself and
all his followers clad in green, who being come into the country, he
dispersed them here and there among his friends, lurking by day and
walking by night, for fear of his adversaries. All the whole country
was then but a forest, rough and spacious, as it is still, but then waste
of inhabitants, and all overgrown with woods ; for Owain Glyndwr's
wars beginning in the year 1400, continued fifteen years, which
brought such a desolation that green grass grew on the market-place
in Llanrwst, called Bryn y Betten, and the deer fled into the church-
yard, as it is reported.* This desolation arose from Owain Glyn-
dwr's policy, to bring all things to waste, that the English could find
no strength nor resting place. The country being brought to such a
desolation, could not be replanted in haste, and the wars of York and
Lancaster happening some fifteen years after, this country being the
chiefest fastness of North Wales, was kept by David ab Jenkin (a
captain of the Lancastrian faction) fifteen years in Edward the
Fourth's time, who sent divers captains to besiege him and waste
the country, while he kept his rock of Carreg y Gwalch, and lastly by
the Earl Herbert, who brought it to utter desolation. Now you are
to understand that in these days the country of Nantconwy was not
only wooded, but also Caernarvon, Merioneth, and Denbigh shires
seemed to be but one forest, having few inhabitants ; though, of all
others, Nantconwy had the fewest, being the worst then, and the seat
of the wars, to whom the country paid contribution. From the town
of Conwy to Bala, and from Nantconwy to Denbigh (when wars did
happen to cease in Hiraethog, the country to the east of Nantconwy),
there was continually fostered a wasp's nest which troubled the whole
country ; I mean a lordship belonging to Saint John of Jerusalem,
called Spyty Ivan,f a large thing which had privilege of sanctuary.
This peculiar jurisdiction (not governed by the king's laws) became a
receptacle for a thousand murderers, who being safely warranted there
by law, made the place thoroughly peopled. No spot within twenty
miles was safe from their incursions and robberies, and what they got

within

* This is a proof that the deer in SnowrJon forest were numerous at that time.
f Hospitium sive Sanctuarium— Hospital. The word is perhaps derived from Ys-
bwyd-ty, a place of entertainment or refreshment.

12 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

within their limits was their own. They had to their backstay friends
and receptors in all the county of Merioneth and Powysland. These
helping the former desolations of Nantconwy, and preying upon that
country as their next neighbours, kept most part of tne country all
waste and without inhabitants. In this state stood the hundred of
Nantconwy when Meredith ab levan (my ancestor) removed his
dwelling thither, being (as I guess) about the four-and-twentieth year
of his age, and in the beginning of Henry the Seventh's reign. —
Being questioned by his friends, why he meant to leave his ancient
house and habitation and dwell in Nantconwy, swarming with thieves
and bondmen, whereof there are many in the king's lordship and
towns in that hundred, he answered, that he should find elbow-room
in that vast country among the bondmen, and that he had rather tight
with outlaws than with his own blood and kindred ; ' for if I live in
my own house in Eivionydd* (said he), I must either kill my own
kindred, or be killed by them.'" — The above narrative will be suffi-
cient to give the reader an idea of the miserable state of the country
at that time.

The Marquis of Anglesea is at present the ranger of Snowdon
forest, constable of the castle, and mayor of the town of Caernarvon.
These offices have been for some years hereditary in the family.

It is supposed that Carnedd Llywelyn and Camedd Davydd (two
of the highest peaks of the Arvonian range next to Snowdon) were so
denominated owing to their having been the temporary retreat of
those princes during a part of the time that King Edward the First's
army was in Wales ; and no doubt the heaps of stones still visible on
the summits of these and other mountains were collected and placed
there as shelters from the inclemency of the weather, to those who
fled to them during that contest and the rebellion of Owain Glyndwr.
And many of these hills appear to have been made use of in former
times (as they were also in the late war) as signal-posts, and thus to
have formed a kind of telegraphic information of the approach of an
enemy.

About seven miles to the east of Llanberis is

BEDDGELERT, OR BETHGELERT,

(the church of which is dedicated to Saint Mary,) a small village
completely embosomed in mountains, forming a fine contrast with the
luxuriant meadows of the vale below ; the houses are few and irre-
gular, but the church is remarkably neat, of the origin of which we
have a singular tradition, which assigns the following : — " At a period
when wolves were so formidable and numerous in Wales, Llewelyn
the Great came to reside here for the hunting season, with his
princess and children ; but while the family were one day absent, a
wolf entered into the house and attempted to kill an infant that was

left

* O*sail Gyfarch was the name of his house.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 13

left asleep in the cradle. The prince's favourite greyhound, called
Gelert (given him by King John in 1205), that was watching by the
side,, seized the rapacious animal and killed it, but in the struggle the
cradle was overturned, and lay upon the wolf and child. On the
prince's return, missing the infant, and observing the dog's mouth
stained with blood, he immediately concluded Gelert had murdered
the child, and in a paroxysm of rage drew his sword and ran the
faithful animal through the heart ; but how great was his astonish-
ment when, on replacing the cradle, he found the wolf dead and his
child alive. He, however, caused the grateful creature to be honour-
ably interred, and, as a monument to his memory, erected a church
on the spot, as a grateful offering to God for the preservation of his
child."

At Beddgelert was a priory of Augustine monks, founded by
Anian, Bishop of Bangor, in the thirteenth century, and is supposed
to be the oldest religious house in Wales, except Bardsey and Bangor
Iscoed. In 1280 this monastery was much damaged by fire, but
rebuilt soon after with money obtained by Anian, for absolving such
as sincerely repented of their sins, by remitting the usual penance of
forty days. There is no relict whatever of this place remaining.
Near here is a beautiful vale called Gwynant, or more properly Nant
Gwynant, about six miles long, and affords a great variety of woods,
lakes, and meadows, bounded on each side by lofty mountains, which
add considerably to the beauty of this romantic place. On the left
hand, half a mile up the vale, is a lofty rock, called Dinas Emrys,
the fort of Ambrosius, and where tradition says Vortigern retreated
after calling in the Saxons, by which he for some time avoided the
persecution and odium of his country. It is probable that on this
insular rock he erected a temporary residence of timber, which lasted
him till his final retreat to Nant Gwytherny, or Vortigern's valley,
near Nevyn. Here are two beautiful lakes, abounding with trout :
Llyn Gwynant, the uppermost, near which are the ruins of an old
chapel, Capel Nant Trwynan ; and Llyn Dinas, the lowermost, at
one end of which is a neat villa belonging to Daniel Vawdrey, Esq.
and at the other the ancient fortress of Dinas Emrys.

Tanner ascribes the church to Llewelyn, the last prince, but Mr.
Rowlands has proved it to be more ancient even than the reign of
Owain Gwynedd, as it obtained grants of lands, &c. from that prince,
and also from Llewelyn the Great. The prior generally resided at
Llanidan, in Anglesey, as appears from several deeds which Mr.
Rowlands consulted, signed by one Kynhelin, Prior de Bethcelert,
apud Llan Idan in monasterio ibidem. The townships of Berw and
TreV Beirdd had been given by Prince Owain Gwynedd to this
convent. The prior had also for his support the grange of Llech-
eiddior in Eivionydd, also the grange of Fentidilt, and the village of
Gwernfrelyn ; he had also an allowance of fifty -two cows and twenty-
two

14 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

two sheep.* The expenses of the house must have been considerable/
as religious houses of this description in former times answered the
threefold purposes of inns, almshouses, and hospitals. In 1.535 it
was bestowed by Henry the Eighth upon the abbey of Chertsey, in
Surrey. On the dissolution, the king gave to the family of the
Bodvels all the lands in Caernarvonshire which belonged to this
priory, and all those in Anglesey to that of the Prydderchs, except-
ing the township of Tre'r Beirdd. The daughter of Richard Pry-
ddefch, of Myfyrian, married a Llwyd of Llugwy; and on the
extinction of that family all their estates were bought by the late
Lord Uxbridge, who left them to his nephew, Sir William Irby, the
late Lord Boston. Edward Conway is mentioned as the last prior.
The revenues of Beddgelert were valued by Dugdale at twenty pounds
three shillings and eight pence. This parish in former days pro-
duced two celebrated Welsh bards, who both lived in the township
of Nanmor, in the county of Merioneth ; viz. Rhys Goch o Eryri and
Rhys Nanmor. Rhys Goch is said to have lived at a place called
Havod Garegog ; and a stone not far from Pont Aberglaslyn is shewn
as his chair (Cadair Rhys Goch). The scene of Southey's ' Madoc*
is laid principally in this parish. Tradition affirms, that Prince?
Madoc ab Owain Gwynedd (who is supposed first to have discovered
America) resided in this parish, and used to attend divine service irt
Nant Gwynant chapel. Sir John Wynne informs us, that when the
Earl of Pembroke's army took Harlech castle, and thence visited
Nantrwynan (or Nant Gwynant) in Beddgelert, a noted chief, whose
name was Robert ab levan, of the Lancastrian faction, used to lodge
at night in the rock called Ogo Velen, near Meillionen. This was
about the year 1468.

CONWAY, OR ABERCONWAY,

(Properly Aber Cynwy) is a large picturesque town seated near1 a
river of that name, formerly noted for being a pearl fishery even in
the time of the Romans. Suetonius says the chief motive alleged by
the Romans for their invasion was the British pearls. One presented
to the queen of King Charles the Second, by Sir R. Wynne, is now
honoured with a place in the regal crown. The town was strongly
fortified by lofty walls, one mile in circumference, defended by
twenty-four round towers and four gates, called Porth ueha, Forth
issa, Forth y Castell, and Porth y Felin, or the Mill Gate. From
the side towards the river ran two curtains, terminating with watcli
towers, one of which only remains. The entrance to the castle
(which Mr. Pennant says " is of matchless magnificence") from the
former gai;e is by a narrow paved gallery, with round towers, leading
to the High street, which terminates at a similar gate. The walls

are

* There must be some mistake here with respect to the sheep, as the number must
have been much greater,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 15

are all embattled, and 12 or 15 feet thick, built on a solid rock, but
there is no tower to the north. The castle, built by Edward the
First in 1284, who, it is believed, employed the same architect, De
Ellerton, who built Caernarvon castle, stands on a high rock, com-
manding the river, with eight round towers in its circuit, and a wall
11 feet thick. The principal entrance was from the town to the
north over the bridge, leading into a large oblong area, with a spa-
cious terrace on the west. On the south, near the river, is an elegant
hall 139 feet by 32 feet, and 30 feet high, with a chapel at one end.
Its roof was supported by eight fine gothic arches, and warmed by a
great fire-place at one end, and another on the side, and lighted by
nine windows, having underneath spacious vaults for ammunition.
Near the east end the stranger passes into a square court, surrounded
by galleries and small apartments. On the north is the king's tower,
a vaulted room with a recess or cell of seven pointed and groined
arches : three are open, having under them more arches, with abase-
ments all round. This is called the King's Seat, the other is named
the Queen's Tower. On the south side of the castle half a tower is
fallen from its foundation, leaving the upper part suspended, occa-
sioned by the inhabitants digging slate from its foundation. Many of
the towers have smaller ones arising from them as at Caernarvon.
The castle seems to have been of considerable importance in the
reign of Charles the First, when we find it strongly fortified, and had
the principal effects of the county lodged within its walls. However,
Colonel Mytton, a parliament general, got possession of it in 1646,
but it was again restored to the owner: a breach has lately been
made in the town wall for the road leading to the elegant and admired
suspension bridge lately erected, the east end of which rests on a small
rocky island, from which an embankment several hundred yards in
length has been formed to the Denbighshire side of the river. The
church, dedicated to Saint Mary, is a very plain structure, with a
few good monuments of the Wynnes. The following eminent persons
were buried therein : Cynan ab Owen Gwynedd, A. D. 1200; its great
founder, Llywelyn ab lorwerth, 1240; Llywelyn ap Maelgwyn,
1230; Davydd ab Llywelyn, 1246; and Gruflydd ab Llywelyn ab
lorwerth, 1248. At the Dissolution, the founder's coffin was removed
to Llanrwst, where it is still to be seen. A very rude figure, cut in
stone, preserves the memory of Mary, the mother of Archbishop
Williams, who died in child-birth of twins, October 10, 1585. In
the church -yard is an inscription on a tomb -stone of one Nicholas
Hookes, Gent, importing that he was the one-and-fortieth child of
his father, William Hookes, Esq, by Alice his wife, and the father of
twenty-seven children; he died 20th March, 1637. Here are like-
wise some remains of a college, founded in the reign of Edward the
First, now in complete ruins, but still shewing some specimens of

curious

16 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

curious workmanship, with several sculptured armorial bearings,
some of which relate to the Stanleys. Among other curiosities of
this town is shewn an antique house (lately inhabited by four fami-
lies), built in a quadrangular form by Robert Wynne, Esq. of the
family of Gwydir, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and adorned in
the fantastic fashion of that period. The roof is singularly carved
with a profusion of ornaments, and the front decorated with the arms
of England, and some curious crests, with birds and beasts, bearing
date 1585. Over the door facing the street are the arms of Queen
Elizabeth: over the gateway is a Greek inscription, and in Latin the
words " Sustine, abstine," and on the house " I. H. S. X. P. S."
in Greek unicals or capitals. Richard the Second remained here
some little time on his return from Ireland; and was soon after
betrayed and delivered into the hands of his enemy, the usurper
Bolingbroke. The castle of Conway was in the custody of Arch-
bishop Williams from 1642 to 1645, when he was superseded by
Prince Rupert, who caused Sir John Owen to take possession of it.
Llywelyn, the son of lorwerth, Prince of North Wales, built and
endowed a Cistertian Abbey here, to the honour of the blessed
Virgin and all Saints, in the year 1185: but about the year 1283,
when King Edward the First, out of the ruins of the old city, built
a new one, he took this abbey into his hands, and founded another at
Maenan, in Denbighshire, about three miles distant, and translated
the monks thither."*

DIGANWY, or Gannoc, or Din Gonwy, (the castle on the river
Conway,) was once a famous city, but being destroyed by lightning in
816, was never afterwards rebuilt, so that the name only now remains,
with a tradition that Conway rose out of its ruins. Many battles are
said to have been fought here between the Britons and Saxons.
About 100 years ago, a number of brass celts were found under a
great stone, placed heads and points. At present the only remains
of this ancient place are on two hills, near the shore of Conway; the
space between crossed by the walls running up the sides. On the
summit of one are the vestiges of a round tower, and a few foundations
of walls scattered on its accessible parts. In 1088, Robert Radland
was here overpowered by the Welsh and slain. Soon after, Llywelyn
ab Gruffydd destroyed the castle; and it was again rebuilt in the year
1210, by Randolph Earl of Chester. King John also lay under its
walls in 1211, but was afterwards reduced to great distress by Prince
Llywelyn ; as was Henry the Third on the same spot. The castle
was, however, entirely destroyed by Llywelyn ab Gruffydd. Near
this place, on a low hill, are the remains of an ancient round tower, 20
feet high and only 12 broad.

At the distance of four miles from Aberconway is the village of.
Dwygyfylchi, the church of which is dedicated to Saint Gwynin, who

flourished

* Tanner's Not. Mon.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 17

flourished about the middle of the sixth century. A little south of
Dwygyfylchi is Penmaen Mawr, a most stupendous mountain, being
1400 feet perpendicular from its base, and to travellers extremely
dangerous. In 1772 a good turnpike road was attempted to be car-
ried over the middle of it ; but from its situation, close to a frightful
precipice, it was found impossible to render it permanent and secure;
therefore a stone wall, in many places 140 feet high, was erected, to
defend the traveller from the clanger of the horrid precipice below
and from the sea, which breaks just before the wall close to the road.
When proceeding up the side of this mountain, among numerous
fragments of stones falling or staring through the rugged surface, we
are, therefore, happily concealed from the perpendicular declivity to
the sea by a wall 5 feet high, erected on arches of stone bedded in
strong mortar, but with such little foundation, that a large portion of
it is continually falling into the Irish sea, or obstructing the road. A
new road is now in contemplation to avoid this dangerous and horrific
situation. On each side of Penmaen Mawr was a small inn, where
Dean Swift wrote the following lines on the glass in one of the
windows : — •

Before you venture here to pass
Take a good refreshing glass ;

and at the other house,

Now you're over take another,
Your fainiing spirits to recover.

On the summit stands Braich y Dinas, an ancient fortification,
encompassed with a strong treble wall, and within each wall the
foundation of at least 100 towers all round, of equal size, being
about 6 yards in diameter, with, in other places, from two to three
yards thick, the castle seems to have been impregnable, there being
no way to assault it, because the hill is so high, steep, and rocky, and
the walls so uncommonly strong. The way or entrance to it ascends
by so many turnings that 100 men may defend themselves against a
legion; yet there appears room for 20,000 men within its ruinous
walls. At the summit of the rock, within the innermost wall, is a
well, affording plenty of water, even in the driest summer. Tradi-
tion makes this the strongest retreat the Britons had in Snowdon ;
while the magnitude of the works shew it to have been a princely
fortification, strengthened by nature and art, and seated near the sea
on one of the highest mountains in Caernarvonshire. Mr. Pennant,
in his examination of this place, discovered four very distinct walls,
placed one above the other, one of which was six feet high and one
and a half thick ; in most places the facing appeared perfect, but all
dry work; between the walls, in all parts, were innumerable small
buildings, mostly circular, regularly faced within and without, but
not disposed in any certain order; though in some places the walls
were intersected with others equally strong, and very judiciously

calculated
w 2

18 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

calculated to cover the passage into Anglesea, being apparently
impregnable to every thing but famine.

About one mile from Braich y Dinas is Y Meineu Hirion, one of
the most remarkable monuments in all Snowdon. It is a circular
intrenchment of 80 feet diameter, with ten stones standing on the
outside placed endways, the whole enclosed by a stone wall. Near
this are four other circles, but smaller, one of which shews the
remains of a cromlech. This tract has certainly been much inhabited ;
for all round are the remains of small buildings made of round stones,
suited to the rude simplicity of former ages. Tradition says, a
bloody battle was fought here between the Romans and Britons, and
that the carneddau, now visible, are the several graves where the
vanquished Romans were buried. At about the distance of six
miles from Dwygyfylehi is Aber (its church dedicated to Saint
Boda, a saint who lived about the sixth century), a celebrated little
village, situate at the entrance of a deep glen, which runs about two
miles, bounded on one side by a mountain covered with wood, and on
the other side by a tremendous magnificent slate rock, called Maes y
Gaer. At the extremity of this glen a mountain presents a concave
front, in the centre of which a vast cataract precipitates itself above
60 feet down the face of a rugged rock. Near the village is a conical
mount, on which formerly stood a castle, once the residence of Lly-
welyn the Great, and where he received a summons from Edward the
First to deliver up the Principality to the Crown of England, with the
offer of £1000 per annum in the latter; which, like a patriotic prince,
he instantly rejected. Some foundations of this castle are still
remaining on a summit, but the superstructure is entirely destroyed.
This place is chiefly noticed for its vicinity and easy ascent to Pen-
maen Mawr. It is also one of the ferries to Anglesea, with a pleasant
walk of four miles over the Lavan Sands. Near this place, it is said,
was detected the intrigue of William de Breos (son of Reginald), a
baron in the time of Henry III.), with the wife of Llewelyn. In a
morass, near a mountain called Bere, in this parish, Davydd, brother
to Llewelyn, the last prince, was taken, together with his wife, two
sons, and seven daughters. The tradition is that he was basely
betrayed by some of his pretended friends, and that he and his family
were carried captives, and delivered into the hands of the English
king then at Ruddlan castle, and from thence to Salop, where he was
executed.

BANGOR,

(From Ban, high, and Cor, a circle,) which, though a city, consists of
only one street, in which is the market-house and inn. The cathedral
is the principal structure in this place, and is supposed to have been
erected in the fifteenth century : the choir was built by Bishop Dean
about 1496, but the tower and nave by Bishop Skivington in 1532, as
appears by an inscription over the west door. The nave is 1 10 feet

long

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 19

long by 60, the transepts 60 by 25, and the choir 54 by 26. The
service of this cathedral is performed with true reverential decorum,
and a regulation has been made to accommodate the inhabitants and
environs, by having the service performed in Welsh at seven in the
morning, English at eleven, and Welsh again at four in the evening.
The chapter consists of a dean, three archdeacons, two precentors,
two vicars, eight canons, six lay clerks, and eight choristers. The
church is dedicated to Saint Deiniol, or Daniel, a saint who lived in
the former part of the sixth -century, and who, about the year 525,
founded a college here,, where he was abbot, and this place being
some time after raised to the dignity of a bishoprick, he became the
first bishop of it: he died about the year 554, and was buried in the
Isle of Bardsey. Here are the monuments of Bishops Glynn, 1558,
Morgan, 1673^ Robinson, 1584, Vaughan, 1597, Rowlands, 1665
(who purchased four new bells, and new-roofed the cathedral).
Richard Kyffin, the active Dean of this church in the reigns of
Richard the Third and Henry the (Seventh, was buried here in 1501.
Bishop Humphrey Lloyd was buried in Bishop Rowlands' grave in
1688. There is a monument, with a cross, on the south transept,
ascribed to Owen Glyndwr, who was buried at Monington, in Here-
fordshire; but Mr. Pennant, with apparently better reason, ascribes
it to Owain Gwynedd. Here are also the remains of a palace, built
by BishopSkivington, surrounded by embattled walls, in the garden of
which is a mineral spring of common chalybeate. The dean's .house
still remains; but the rest, with Saint Mary's church, are said to
have been built by King Edgar in 972. The old castle, said to
be built by Hugh Lupus about the year 1098, and founded on a hill at
some distance from the town, has been down many years agp. With-
out the town stands the Black Friars, converted into a free-school
by Dr. Glynn in 1557, and has long been in high repute as a training
seminary for Oxford, and for Trinity College, Dublin. Since the
foundation a very handsome school house has been erected, with an
income of £400 per ann. Over the chimney is a representation of one
Gruffydd, who is supposed to have been the founder of the former
ruins. The church was burnt by the rebellious Owen Glyndwr in
the reign of Henry the Fourth. The whole of the present fabric is
one of gothic architecture, with no particular ornament to distin-
guish it from a parish church, except some very picturesque beauties
around its ancient foundation.

About 18 bishops, mostly of British extraction, presided in suc-
cession over the see of Bangor; of whom, however, little information
can be collected previous to the annexation of the Principality to
the Crown of England, when Bishop Anian, who was in the interest
of Edward the First, obtained considerable grants and privileges to
the see, and re-established the discipline and services of the church.
The grants included five manors in the county of Caernarvon, three in

Denbighshire,

20 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Denbighshire, and one in Montgomeryshire. From Anian till the
Reformation there were in succession 24 bishops of English extrac-
tion, many of whom were great benefactors to the see, and expended
large sums on the cathedral, &c. The bishops of this see, under the
reformed church, were for a length of time chosen from some of the
most respectable families in the principality.

About two miles from Bangor is the magnificent Suspension Bridge
over the straits of the Menai. Some years have elapsed since the
design of erecting a bridge over the Menai strait was first con-
templated, for the purpose of facilitating the intercourse between this
kingdom and Ireland. In 1810 and 1811 several plans of cast-iron
bridges were submitted to a committee of the House of Commons,
and by them approved of as adapted to the object in question : and
particularly one of a single arch of 500 feet in the span, and 100 feet
above high water, submitted in 1811 by Mr. Telford, the expense of
which was estimated at somewhat more than £127,000; but the
difficulty of ' ' fixing a proper centering, owing to the rocky bottom of
the channel and the depth and rapidity of the tide- way," seems to
have caused this project to be abandoned almost as soon as it was
conceived; and accordingly we find Mr. Telford sent in a plan of the
cast-iron bridge, accompanied by the design of one to be constructed
on the principle of suspension. In the course of a few years after,
upon being engaged to execute a similar work over the Mersey at
Runcorn, he was enabled to improve very considerably upon his
former design. Inconsequence, in the year 1818, he laid before a
Committee of the House of Commons his new design. According to
this the iron hanging bridge over the Menai was to consist of one
opening of 560 feet between the points of suspension ; in addition to
which there were to be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea
and three on that of Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span,
making the total length of the bridge 910 feet; the height above the
level of high water line was to be 100 feet. "The roadway," observes
Mr. Telford, " will embrace two carriage-ways, each 12 feet in
breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them. The whole is
to be suspended from four lines of strong iron cables by perpendicular
iron rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-
way framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and
the weight to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons,
leaving a disposable power of 1674 tons. The four sides of the road-
ways will be made of framed ironwork firmly bound together for seven
feet in height, and there will be a similar work for five feet in depth
below the cables. The weight of the whole bridge between the
pointsof suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will consist of
the masonry work, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers,
and the seven arches before-mentioned: each of the two piers will
be 60 feet by 40J wide at high water-mark, having a foundation of

rock.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 21

rock. Upon the summit of the two main piers will be erected a
frame of cast-iron work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of
raising the cables from which the bridge is to be suspended." The
probable cost of erecting this stupendous structure Mr. Telford
estimated at sixty, or, allowing for any unforeseen charges, at most
seventy thousand pounds, about half the calculated expense of the
cast-iron bridge on the old plan. The chosen spot for its site was
Ynys y Moch, and a little to the westward of Bangor Ferry, which
site had been fixed for the work first proposed, and where the oppo-
site shores seemed to offer every advantage for the undertaking. The
first stone of this national bridge was laid, without any -ceremony, at
noon, on Tuesday, the 10th of August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident-
engineer. On the 26th of April, 1825, the first chain of this stu-
pendous work was thrown over the straits of Menai, in the presence
of an immense concourse of persons. At half-past two o'clock, it
being then about half-flood tide, the raft prepared for the occasion,
stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near Treborth mill, which
supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn over, began to
move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats, with the
assistance of tie tide, to the centre of the river, between the two
grand piers. When the raft was adjusted and brought to its ulti-
mate situation, it was made fast to several buoys anchored in the
changed for that purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the
apex of the suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down
nearly to high water-mark, was then made fast by a bolt to the part of
the chain lying on the raft ; which operation was completed in ten
ininutes. The next process was the fastening of the other extremity
of the chain on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power,
for the purpose of hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of
the suspending pier on the Anglesea side. When the blocks were
made secure to the chain (comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two
.capstans, and also two preventive capstans commenced working, each
capstan being propelled by thirty-two men. To preserve an equal
-tension in the rotatory evolutions of the two principal capstans, Sfifers
played several enlivening tunes to keep the men regular in their
steps; for which purpose they had been previously trained. At this
critical and interesting juncture the attention of every one present
seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle ; the chain rose majestically,
and the gratifying sight was enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in
" breathless silence." At ten minutes before five o'clock the final
bolt was fixed, which completed the whole line of chain, and the
happy event was hailed by the hearty acclamations of the spectators.
Not the least accident, delay, or failure, occurred in any department
during the whole operation. From the moving of the raft to the
uniting of the chain only 2 hours and 25 minutes transpired. Upon
the completion of the chain, three of the workmen passed along the

upper

22 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

upper surface of the chain, which forms a curvature of 590 feet; the versed
sine of the arch is 43 feet. On the termination of the day's proceed-
ings, the workmen (in number about 150) were regaled, by order of the
Right Hon. the Parliamentary Commissioners of the Holyhcad Road
Improvements, with a quart of cwrw da each. The sixteenth chain,
completing the whole line of suspension, was carried over on the 9th
of July following.

The general opening of the bridge first took place on Monday,
January 30, 1826. The Royal London and Holyhead Mail Coach,
carrying the London mail bag for Dublin, passed over at one o'clock,
A.M.; and the first carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliot
Fuller, Esq. one of the Commissioners, drawn by four beautiful
greys ; the first stage coach was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon
day coach ; the first London stage coach was the Oxonian. These
were followed by the carriage of Sir David Erskine, Bart, late pro-
prietor of the Ferry, drawn by four elegant greys decorated witli
ribbons, and by several gentlemen's carriages, landaus, gigs, cars,
&c. &c. and horsemen : numerous flags were flying, and cannons
(stationed on each side of the bridge) were discharged at intervals of
the day. The dimensions of the bridge are as follows r^The extreme
length of the chain from the fastenings in the rocks is about 1715
feet; the height of the roadway from high water line is 100 feet;
each of the seven small piers from high water line to the spring of
the arches is 65 feet ; the span of each arch is 62 feet. Each of the
suspending piers is 52 feet above the road; the road on the bridge
consists of two carriage-ways of 12 feet each, with a foot-path of 4
feet in the centre ; the length of the suspended part of the road from
pier to pier is 553 feet; the carriage-road passes through two arches
in the suspending piers of the width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to
the spring of the arches. To counteract the attraction and expansion
of the iron from the effects of the change in the atmosphere, a set of
rollers are placed under cast-iron saddles on the top of the suspending
piers where the chains rest; the vertical rods, an inch square, sus-
pended from the chains, support the sleepers for the flooring of the
roadway, the rods being placed 5 feet from each other. The chains^
16 in number, consist of 5 bars each ; length of the bar 9 feet 9
inches, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with 6 connecting lengths at each
joint 1 foot 6 inches by 10 inches and 1 inch, secured by two bolts at
each joint, each bolt weighing about 56 pounds ; and the total num-
ber of the bars in the cross-section of the chain is 80.

From Bangor, in a south-easterly direction, is the village of Llan-
dygau; and at the distance of about 14 miles on the right is CapeJ
Curig. The church is dedicated to Saint Curig, a saint who came
into Wales about the seventh century, and who has two other churches
dedicated to him in Wales. It is a small village, containing little
more than a small church and public-house. It is delightfully situ-
ated

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 23

ated in a vale, bounded by Snowdon and its surrounding mountains,
and this vale affords one of the most picturesque landscapes in the
whole county, consisting of a great variety of wood and water, which
are frequently wanted in our Cambrian vales to render them com-
pletely picturesque. Here are also two large pools, called Llyniau
Mymbu or Llyniau Capel Curig ; near one of which the late Lord
Penrhyn built a comfortable inn, from a design of Mr. Wyatt. In the
neighbourhood are some quarries, and several remarkable works,
well worth the traveller's observation. It is thought that this part of
the country was much frequented by the Romans, on account of its
slate quarries and valuable lead and copper mines. There are consi-
derable remains of a large Roman building on an estate belonging to
the Earl of Gwydir, between Llanrwst and Capel Curig, near a place
called Bryn Gefeiliau (the hill of the smithy) ; and it is probable that
a Roman road passed this way from Trawsfynydd, Merionethsire, to
Caer Rhun. Great quantities of building materials have been taken
from these remains for several years past. " I distinctly traced,"
says Mr. Lysons, " the walls of one room, the dimensions of which
were 60 feet by 20, and of another, 18 feet 6 inches square, in which
were several short square pillars of stone, like those of the hypocaust
under the Feathers Inn, in Chester."

A short distance from Capel Curig is Rhayadr-y-Wenol, a cele-
brated cataract; the scenery round which is extremely grand, parti-
cularly the upper part, where the water is thrown in a sheet down a
rock almost perpendicular, after which it varies its course and be-
comes smooth and beautiful, taking its direction between high wooded
banks, entwined by different tints of oak, birch, and hazel, which
hang from the impending rock.

About 4 miles south of Capel Curig is Dolwyddelan Castle, situate
in the parish of that name, the church of which is dedicated to Saint
Gwyddelan, a saint of whom little is known, situated on a high en-
closed rock, with square towers of 40 feet by 25, each containing three
floors. The walls of the court, once 6 feet thick, are now entirely
destroyed, and only a small part left of the other buildings. Mr,
Rowland supposes this castle to have been built as early as the time
of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who lived in the sixth century, afterwards the
residence of lorwerth Drwyndwn (or Drwndwn), and where his son
Llewelyn the Great was born. The materials of this castle are the
common stone of the country, well squared, and the masonry ex-
tremely good. Howel ap levan ap Rhys Gethyn, a noted outlaw,
once resided here. At that period, after the civil wars, and the
rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, this part of the country was in a very
lawless state. Meredydd ap levan, an ancestor of the Gwydir family,
was, however, the means of reforming it ; and according to the ac-
count given by Sir John Wynne, he established colonies of the most
tall and able men that he could procure, till at last they amounted to

seven

24 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a jacket or armlet
coat, a good steel cap, a short sword, and dagger, together with his
bow and arrows: many of them had horses and chasing staves, and
all were ready to answer the call on all occasions. He also founded
the strong house of Penmanmaen, a mile distant from the castle. At
that period there was a gang of marauders at Sputty levan, who used
to plunder the whole country and put it under contribution. The
said Meredydd, however, soon checked and finally dispersed this
dangerous banditti. The church of Dolwyddelan, which is small,
has in it a monument, commemorating such of Meredydd's family as
were buried there.

About two miles to the north-east of Dolwyddelan village is Bettws
y Coed, or Bettws Wyrion Iddon, a small village. In the church,
which is dedicated to Saint Michael, is an ancient monument to the
memory of Davydd, brother to Llewelyn, the last Prince of Wales.
Here the road leads into the luxuriant vale of Llanrwst, in the
neighbourhood of which are a number of gentlemen's seats ; the prin-
cipal of which is Gwydir House, an ancient seat of the family of
Wynne, built at the foot of a lofty rock called Carreg-y-Gwalch, well
clotted with wood; it consists of an antique edifice, erected round a
greater and lesser court, having over a gateway I. W. (for John
Wynne), with the date 1558. Gwydir derives its name from Gwaed-
dir, or the Bloody Land, in allusion to the battle fought here by
Llywarch Hen about the year 610. On the rock, above Lower
Gwydir, stood another mansion, called Upper Gwydir, built in a
beautiful situation, amidst rich meadows watered by the Conway.
The mansion was erected by Sir John Wynne in 1604 with classical
taste. On the walls were many inscriptions, particularly over the
entrance, where was read this panegyric, —

Fryn Gwydir gwelir golcu adeilad

Uch dolydd a cbaurau.
Bryn gweich adail yn ail ne;
Bron wen Henllys bron liinlle.

The entrance has been of late demolished; but the family chapel,
standing near the site of the old house, is still preserved, and has
service performed in it four times a-year. This ancient seat continued
in the family of Wynne till 1678, when it first passed into that of
Ancaster, by marriage of Mary, the heiress of Sir Richard Wynne, to
the Marquis of Lindsay, and was afterwards possessed by Sir Peter
Burrell, Knight, in right of his wife the Baroness Willoughby,
eldest daughter of the late Duke of Ancaster, in whose family it now
remains, and hence its possessor derives the title of Earl of Gwydir.

About two miles to the north is Trevrew or Trevrhiw, the church
of which is dedicated to Saint Mary. Llewelyn had a palace here,
and some hewn stones have been found in ploughing a field contijgu-
ous, called Gardd-y-Neuodd. The Welsh princes had a hunting
seat here, and also some lands, which, after the conquest, became the

property

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 25

property of the Crown. Llewelyn is stated to have built the church
for the convenience of his princess. Dr. Thomas William, a native
of this place, was the author of part of the Welsh Latin Dictionary :
he was first a clergyman, afterwards practised as a physician, and was
related to Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, by whom he was patronised.
Clynogvawr is rendered remarkable by being the place where Beuno
(the son of a nobleman of Powys-land) settled in 616, and, as the
tradition goes, raised Saint Winifred to life. He built the church,
which is dedicated to him, and which was conventual, St. Beuno
himself being the first abbot. It presents the remains of a very mag-
nificent stone building 132 feet in extent, and was chiefly kept in
repair by oblations at Beuno's tomb on Trinity Sunday, until the
decayed state of the roof made a brief for that purpose necessary.
The chancel windows were adorned with pictures of Beuno and
Winifred, but the ornaments are now reduced to three whole-length
saints. By the steeple on the south side is a very ancient vault;
likewise Beuno's chapel, measuring 41 feet by 24; in the middle is
his monument, a plain altar-tomb, on which country people lay their
children after bathing them in his well. There were formerly brought
to it lambs with Beuno's mark, either redeemed or left for the abbot.
This custom is still continued to the churchwardens, but greatly
reduced in number, as is the money, kept in an old chest called Cyflf
St. Beuno, which used to be applied to the repair of the church. It
is now a sinecure, worth upwards of £200 a year, in the gift of Jesus'
College, Oxford. The church is the most magnificent of its kind in
North Wales ; it is built in the shape of a cross, the length from east
to west 38 feet, from north to south 70. Colonel Twistleton, who
took Sir John Owen prisoner in the time of Oliver Cromwell, married
the heiress of William Glynn, of Leiar, in this parish. The old
.church where Saint Beuno lieth is close by the new one.

About 6 miles from Clynogfawr is the village of Llanhaiarn, a
place of no note ; 6 miles to the south-west of which, on the right-
hand of the road, is Nevyn (the church of which is dedicated to
Saint Mary), a small town contributory to Caernarvon, bestowed on
Nigel de Lohareyn by Edward the Black Prince, and made a free
borough, with a hall and every privilege attendant on free boroughs.
Here Edward the First^ in 1284, held his triumph on the conquest of
Wales, and, in imitation of Arthur, held a round table, with a dance
and tournaments. The concourse of nobility and gentry that as-
sembled here on this occasion was prodigious.

Near Nevyn is Nant-y-Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern's Valley , an im-
mense hollow, where Vortigern is said to have fled from the rage and
persecution of his countrymen, for inviting the Saxons into Britain,
and where the monks inform us that his castle was destroyed by
lightning. Indeed fancy cannot frame a place more fit for a retreat
from mankind, being embosomed in lofty mountains, with an opening

only

26 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

only to the sea. The glen is at present only tenanted by three
families, who raise oats and keep a few sheep and cattle, produced
and maintained with great difficulty. Just above the sea is a verdant
mount, natural except the top and sides, which appear worked on by
art ; having the first flatted, and the sides worked or marked with
eight prominent ribs from top to bottom. On this might have been
the residence of the unfortunate Vortigern, of which time has
destroyed every other vestige. Till about the beginning of the last
century, a tumulus of stone within and externally covered with turf,
was to be seen here, and known by the name of Bedd-Gwrtheryn,
tradition having regularly delivered down the report of this having
been the place of his interment. The inhabitants of this parish,
some time since, dug into the earn or tumulus, and found within it a
stone coffin, containing the bones of a tall man. This gives a degree
of credibility to the tradition, especially as no other bones were found
with it, neither is there any other tumulus near the spot, which is at
least a proof of respect to the rank of the person ; and that the place
was deserted after the interment of our royal fugitive in the year 465
is highly credible. Near Vortigern's Valley is Tre Jr Caeri, or the
Town of the Fortresses, which runs from one side of the Eifl
mountains to the other, and consists of an immense rampart of stones,
or perhaps the ruins of a wall made to block up the pass, and appears
to have been a very strong British post. The accessible side is
defended by three walls; but the lowest is very imperfect, the next
tolerably entire, with a magnificent entrance : this wall in one part
points upwards towards the third wall, which runs round the top of
the hill : the second wall unites with the first, which, running into a
point, joins the highest in a place where the hill is inaccessible. The
facings on the two upper walls are in good preservation,, especially
that of the uppermost. The space on the top is an irregular area ;
one part is steep, the other flat, and in some places covered with
heath ; but the whole is almost filled with cells, which are best seen
from the summit, where they appear disposed with much art, and of
various forms, round, oval, oblong, and square, lying scattered about
the plain ; others contiguous to the wall, but all on the inside. The
upper wall was in many places 15 feet high on the outside, and often
16 feet broad. On the south of Tre 'r Caer is Moelrgarn Guwch, a
hill of conical form, having on its summit a prodigious heap of stones,
seemingly a shapeless ruin, called by the country people Arffedoged-
y-Cowres, or " The apron-full of stones flung down by the Giantess,"
— a tradition very common among the illiterate of Caernarvon, Meri-
oneth, and Radnorshire.

On the road, at the distance of about 8 miles from Llanhaiarn, is
Pwllheli (the chapel of which is dedicated to Saint Beuno), a consi-
derable market town and magazine for goods, which are sent from
hence to most parts of this county ; it has also a good harbour for

vessels

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 27

vessels of about 60 tons. Edward the Black Prince made this place
a free borough, by charter dated in the twelfth year of his princi-
pality, and granted the fee-farm of it and of Nevyn to one of the
gentlemen of his bed-chamber (Nigel de Loryngor Lohrayne), in con-
sideration of his services in Gascony, and particularly at Poictiers.
Giraldus Cambrensis, in company with Baldwin, Archbishop of
Canterbury, who was on a tour through the principality in the year
1 185, in order to obtain contributions towards the Crusade, remained
a night in this town. — About five miles distant is Cam Madryn, a
strong fortress of the sons of Owen Gwynedd : the bottom, sides,
and top are filled with cells of different shapes, once covered ; many
of which are now pretty entire, as is a wall which surrounded the
summit. About three miles east of Pwllheli is the village of Aber-
erch, where, as some Welsh manuscripts assert, Thomas Puleston,
Esq. brother to Sir Roger Puleston, was buried, soon after the
conquest of Wales by Edward the First.

About 8 miles beyond is Criccieth (the church of which is dedi-
cated to Saint Catherine), a market town and borough, united with
Caernarvon, and governed by two bailiffs. The castle has been its
chief ground of importance, though only a small building, and at
present in a very ruinous condition. It is situated on an eminence
jutting into the sea, from whence is a fine view across the bay to
Harlech and its once magnificent castle. From the architecture
of this castle it may be pronounced to be of British origin, although
Edward the First is the reputed founder; but he seems to have
done no more than build the two towers at its entrance, and after-
wards appoint William de Leybourn constable, with a salary of £100,
out of which he was to maintain 30 men, and a chaplain, surgeon,
carpenter, and mason. From what now remains, it appears originally
to have consisted of four square courts, and on each side the, entrance
a round tower ; it had also the honour of being the residence of the
valiant Sir Howel y Fwyal, who disputed the honour of taking the
King of France prisoner at Poictiers with a Knight of Artois.

In the parish of Llanllechid is a cave, in a field called Caer
Gwillim Ddu, where, according to tradition, William de Breos was
buried, after being executed on suspicion of too great familiarity
with Joan, the consort of Llewelyn the Great. In the parish of
Dwygyfylchi, above a place called Gwyddwg Glas, are numerous
circles of stones at unequal distances from each other, the largest of
which is 8 feet 3 inches high : on the ground is another, 1 1 feet
2 inches high ; the diameter of this circle is 80 feet. Near this are
four others, far inferior in size : in the centre of one is a flat stone,
seemingly the remains of a cromlech. About a quarter of a mile from
these is a large carnedd, composed of small stones ; and not far from
it a rude stone, standing upright, called Maen y Campiau, or Stone of
the Games. Some of the British games, of which the Welsh had

twenty-four,

28 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

twenty-four, may probably have been celebrated here : the principal
of these were,-^l. Strength to raise weights; 2. Running; 3. Leap*
ing; 4. Wrestling; 5. Riding. The last (Marchogaeth) probably
included driving small cars or chariots. In the parish of Bryncroes,
on the lands of Tymawr, was discovered, some years ago, a cistvaen,
or stone coffin, containing an urn with burnt bones and ashes; and
near a house called Monachdy there was formerly a cromlech, but at
present there is only one stone remaining. There are, however,
several cromlechs in different parts of this county.

Aberdaron (the church of which is dedicated to Saint Howyn, a
saint of the island of Bardsey) is situate on the river Daron, which
discharges itself into Saint George's Channel. Aberdaron was for-
merly much resorted to, being the place where devotees usually took
boat for the island of Bardsey. There is a house in this parish still
known by the name of Court, where, in former times, courts were held
for the manor of Bardsey ; an eminence near it, called Bryn y Grog-
bren (the Gallows Hill) ; and another house in the neighbourhood,
called Secar (the Exchequer). In a hollow, between two hills called
Uwch Mynydd and Mynydd y Gwyddel, are the ruins of Saint Mary's
chapel (Capel Fair), and below the clift is a cave called Ogo Vair, in
which there is a well (Ffynnon Fair) : the point of the rock is called
Braich y Pwll, and that particular part of it under which the well is
situated Maen Melyn (the yellow stone). Jn times of popery this
well, which was only accessible at low water, was much frequented
by devotees, who superstitiously believed that if they could but carry
a mouthful of water by a circuitous and dangerous path to the summit
of the hill, their wish, whatever it might be, would be surely gratified.
The chapel was placed here to give seamen an opportunity of invoking
the tutelar saint for protection through the dangerous sound of
Bardsey; and probably the walls of the chapel were in those supersti-
tious times covered with votive tablets.

Bettws Garmon (the chapel of which is dedicated to Saint Garmon,
i. e. Germanus, one of the most distinguished of the British saints,) is
most romantically situate near the river Gwyrvai, in a narrow valley
between high mountains ; and the cascade and scenery about Nant-
rnill are greatly admired. Mr. Rowland states that there was a fort
in ancient times near Castell Cidwm, at the foot of Mynyddmawr
mountain ; but in all probability he was misinformed, as the remains
of such a building are still visible on the north side of the vale above
Carreg Goch, not far from Trevlan. Cawellyn Lake, anciently
called Llyn Tarddynni, is in this parish; it abounds with trout and
char : one ascent to Snowdon commences near this pool. There is a
fine spring of water on the side of a hill about a mile west of the
church, called Saint Garmon's Hill, which is reputed to be efficacious
in rheumatic complaints and eruptive disorders.

Bodverin (the chapel of which is dedicated to Saint Merin, but now

in

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 29

in ruins) is situate on the Irish sea. In this parish is a small creek
called Forth Verin, and another called Forth lago; and a well, near a
place called Trevgraig, which is the source of the river Daron : it is
known by the name of Ffynnon Bibau. On the side of the hill
called Mynnydd Moelvre, or Mynnydd yr Ystum, are the ruins of an
old chapel, called Capel Odo ; and near it is a tumulus, distinguished
by the appellation of Bedd Odo, or Odo's grave, who according to
tradition was a great giant.

Caer Hen (the old town), otherwise Caer Rhun, the fortress of
Rhim, a prince of that name, has a church dedicated to Saint Mary.
In the 16th volume of the Archaeologia, page 127, is a description of
Roman antiquities discovered here, by Samuel Lysons, Esq. whose
taste, judgment, and accuracy are so universally known. All writers,
says this gentleman, on the subject of Roman stations in this island,
agree in opinion that Caer Rhun, a small village on the river Con-
way, is the site of the ancient Conovium, a station which occurs in
the llth iter of Antoninus's Itinerary, and in the 1st of that of
Richard of Cirencester. Camden supposes the name Caerhun to be a
corruption of Caer hen, i. e. the Old City ; but says that the common
tradition of the neighbourhood was, that it received its name from
Rhun ap Maelgwyn Gwynedd. It is certain that in very ancient
writings it is called Caerhun, whatever may be the etymology of its
name. Bishop Gibson, in his additions to Camdem's Britannia,
says, that not many years since there was a Roman hypocaust disco-
vered at Caerhun; and that he had seen, in the possession of Sir
Thomas Mostyn, Bart, some curiosities which he had received from
thence, particularly a hollow brick, and a round piece of copper forty
pounds weight. The site of Conovium is nearly a square of 260 feet,
surrounded by a slight vallum of earth, at the distance of somewhat
more than 500 feet from the river Conway, on the next side to which
the ground is very .steep from the edge of the station. Within this
ancient site stands the church of Caerhun, but no dwelling house, the
village being at some distance. At a small distance north-wrest from
the church two ancient sepulchres were discovered several years ago6
walled and of a square form, containing human bones. In the hilly
ground between the station and the river, called Erw Gaer, i. e. the
Castle Acre, the remains of a considerable building was discovered
several years ago, then supposed to have been a hypocaust. On the
9th of May, 1799, the Honourable Colonel Greville exhibited to the
Society of Antiquaries an ancient shield, which was found at Caerhun
a short time before, on the east side of the Roman station, on opening
an old drain about two feet below the surface of the earth : and at the
same time he exhibited several specimens of ancient pottery, disco-
vered at the same place, nearly resembling the red Samian ware so
frequently met with in Roman stations, but of a softer substance, and
the figures not so well executed. These were supposed to have been

manufactured

30 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

manufactured near the spot where they were found, as there remained
evident traces of fire, and a considerable quantity of fine clay. At the
same time the fragment of a small patera of the Samiaii ware was
found, with " Patria" stamped on the bottom of it. In the investiga-
tion of these Roman remains, assisted by the Rev. Hugh Davies
Griffith, the proprietor of Caerhun, in the latter end of July, 1801,
the Welsh labourers, continues Mr. Lysons, " undertook the work
with more than usual energy, being fully impressed with the belief
that great treasures were buried in ICrw Gaer, and having a tradition
among them of some extraordinary discoveries which had been for-
merly made in an adjoining grove. Having examined two rooms
which had been discovered several years ago, we proceeded to investi-
gate at the south end of them, and by following the course of the
walls, soon ascertained the form of another room (20 feet 9 inches by
14 feet 10 inches), which we cleared out. To the depth of 5 feet
below the surface it was filled with large stones, earth, and rubbish,
below which was a stratum of black mould mixed with burnt wood,
in which lay many fragments of coarse earthen vessels of various
kinds; but only two of which retained enough to shew their original
form: one of them was an amphora. In the same place was also
found a coarse lamp of lead. Bricks of various thicknesses were also
found among the rubbish ; and several masses of wall, formed chiefly
of thin brick tiles laid in mortar; also many lumps of clay, and of a
stalactitical incrustation. At the east end of the room was a sort of
hearth, formed of large thin stones, placed edgeways in the earth, and
large bricks laid flat over them, bearing strong marks of fire. On the
north side of the room were two piers rudely constructed ; they were
built partly of the hard stone of the country and partly of sand-stone.
In the spaces between them great quantities of fragments of pottery,
several lumps of clay, and several pieces of iron were found, There
did not appear to be any remains of pavement in this room; under it
was a small drain of stone, covered with slates. Having thoroughly
investigated this end of the building, and having every reason to
believe that it had not extended any further southward, we proceeded
to explore the opposite end, and soon discovered it to be of a very
irregular form. In the first room which we now broke into there
were no remains of pavement : the fragments of plaster remained on
some parts of the wall. The area of this room was filled with loose
rubbish, mortar, and fragments of bricks and tiles ; among which we
found a rude kind of square pillar, 2 feet 7| inches in height, of sand-
stone, exactly similar to those \vhich support thehypocaust discovered
many years ago in Bridge Street, Chester, — and a part of a brick
funnel, the aperture of which was 6 inches by 4f inches, and the sides
about half an inch thick. The next room was paved with large
slates, in which was a pier, 2 feet 10 inches square, of brick and
stone in alternate layers, and 1 foot 4 inches high ; some of the bricks

were

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 31

were 17 inches square and 2 inches thick, others 17 inches by 21.
Great part of the walls of this room were of brick, and in some places
the plaster was remaining red. At the north-west corner were two
steps of stone leading into a further room, which appeared to have
been very much worn by use. Under the floor of this room we disco-
vered a drain, varying in width from 1 foot 3 inches to 1 foot 0
inches, and from 3 feet 7 inches in deptli to 4 feet 6 inches ; the
bottom of it was formed of large slates. In clearing out this apart-
ment we found the fragment of a piece of cornice of sand-stone, and a
kind of square stone post 2 feet 9 inches in length, with a round hole
near the top I inch and a half in diameter, and the tenon at the other
end by which it had been fixed up. This appeared to have been a
kind of vestibule; it is 23 feet 1 inch in length. In a fourth room
were found many stone pillars of the same kind as that already
described, standing upright and supporting parts of the floor, which
was of large slates, others had fallen down. There did not appear
any funnels in the walls, or other marks of a hypocaust. On the
outside of the building, close to one of the walls of the rooms, wo
found a stone 2 feet long and 1 foot wide, with a channel cut in the
middle as if for the conveyance of water from a spout, and from this
were laid a row of seven brick funnels, closely fitted together : they
were all of them 10J inches in length, but varied in width, some
being 6 J inches wide and others only 5 J ; they had all of them round
holes on the narrow sides; some of them were scored on the broadest
sides. The funnel, represented in Gibson's Camden, and supposed
to have belonged to a hypocaust, exactly resembles these. A copper
coin of Domitian, and an iron chain of 28 links, somewhat larger than
a modern jack-chain, were afterwards discovered by Mr. Griffiths,
together with some small precious stones perforated, and part (prob-
ably) of a necklace. — The Author laments the disadvantage which
the abstract of this interesting investigation sustains, by want of the
ground-plan and the delineation of the several antiquities that were
discovered in this place, which appears, in all probability, to have
been a manufactory of Roman pottery.

Dolbenmaen is a chapelry, and its chapel is dedicated to Saint
Beuno. In former times this neighbourhood (says Pennant) abounded
with gentry; and the country was divided into two clans, one de-
scended from Owain Gwynedd, Prince of Wales, and the other from
Collwyn ap Tangno, a valiant chieftain of the ninth century. From
the former were descended the four houses of Ccssail Gyfarch, Ystum
Cegid, Clenneney, Brynkir, &c. ; and the descendants of the latter
consisted of the houses of Whilog, Bron y Voel, Berkin, Gwynvryn,
Tal Henbpnt (now Plas Hen), and Pennardd. " The feuds among
these families," says Sir John Wynne, " filled the land with blood."
Both parties encouraged and protected /in y thieves and outlaws, who
were ready to side with them, and execute any horrid deed proposed to

them,

32 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

them, in order to be revenged on the opposite faction. Not far from
the church is a mount or pretty large tumulus, which, from every
appearance, formed the foundation of one of those watch-towers or
small castles, constructed of timber, that were so common in times
prior to the invention of gunpowder. Near Ystum Cegid are three
cromlechs joining to each other, which are possibly memorials of
three chieftains slain on the spot : and near Clenneney, on Bwlch
Craigwen, is a druidieal circle, consisting of thirty-eight stones.
Brynkir was visited by the celebrated Lord Lyttelton, who published
Letters descriptive of North Wales ; the house was then inhabited by
a family of the same name (Brynkir), with one of whom (a fellow
collegian) he ascended the high hill of Moel Hedog.

Llanfihangel y Pennant (the church of which is dedicated to Saint
Michael) is situated between lofty hills, and in a very retired situation ;
it is the adjoining parish to Dolbenmaen; and Brynkir, the seat of
Sir Joseph Huddart, is in this parish. Here are several monuments
to the memory of the Brynkir family. James Brynkir is said to have
been a great sufferer for his royal master: he was born in 1600, and
died in 1644. Here also lies the body of Catherine, sixth daughter
of Colonel William Price, of Rhiwlas, and Mary, daughter and
co-heiress of David Holland, of Kinmel, Esq. his wife : she was
married to James Brynkir, Esq. in 1687, and by him had issue four
sons and one daughter, and departed this life August 16th, 1728,
aged 65.

Eglwys Rhos or Llanrhos, otherwise Llanfair yn Rhos. — The
church (as the latter name imports) is dedicated to Saint Mary. In
the township of Bryniau is a field called Gardd y Monachdy, i. e.
the Garden belonging to the Monastery ; and also the ruins of a
building upon an elevated situation, which is supposed to have been
a watch-tower. There is also the ruins of an old castle, called
Cast ell Fardre, in a very strong situation near Diganwy, in the town-
ship of Pen Clais; it is situate on Conway Bay. In this parish are
four very ancient family seats, — Gloddaeth, and Bodysgallen, the
property of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Baronet ; the former built in the
time of Queen Elizabeth, and still furnished with the old oak and
other furniture peculiar to that age. The other two are Marie, at one
time the property of Sir Thomas Prendergast, and Plas Penrhyn,

Creuddin, formerly the seat of Pugh, Esq. who married the

heiress of Coetmore.

Cyffin. — The church of this place is a quarter of a mile south by
west of Conway, but the parish extends in a direction southward to
the distance of four miles : the small brook near which the church
is situate is called Cyffin, from which it is supposed the parish has
taken its name, the meaning of the word is the boundary or confine.
At Cymryd, where was formerly a ford over the Conway, a severe
engagement was fought in the year 880, between Anarawd", Prince of

North

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 33

North Wales, and Edred (or Eadred), Duke of Mercia, in which the
ancient Britons obtained a complete victory over the Saxon army.

Llandegai or Llandygai. — The church is dedicated to Saint Tegai
or Tega Glasog, of Maelan, who is supposed to have lived at the
close of the fifth and beginning of the sixth century. It is one mile
east of Bangor. The church is situate on a lofty bank above the
river Ogwen, and behind it to the north, on a lofty eminence, is Penrhyn
Castle, now the magnificent seat of George Hay Dawkins Pennant,
Esq. M. P. who succeeded to this princely property on the death of
the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn. This house is said to have been
built on the site of a palace of Rhodri Molwynog, Prince of Wales,
who began his reign in 720. It continued long in the possession of
the Welsh princes. In 987 it was levelled to the ground byMeredydd
ap Owain, who, in that year, invaded North Wales, and slew Cad-
wallon ap levan, the reigning prince. In the time of Llewelyn the
Great it was bestowed, with the whole hundred of Llechwedd Ucha,
on Yarddur ap Trahaiarn, a man of rank at that period. Eva, one of
his descendants, who had, by the customary division of the lands by
gavelkind, Penrhyn to her share, bestowed it, with her person, on
Gruffydd ap Heilyn ap Sir Tudur ap Ednyved Vychan, originally
Lord of Bryn tfanigl. The family flourished here for many genera-
tions. William Vychan, son of Gwilym ap Gruflfydd, and of Janet,
(laughter of Sir William Stanley, of Hooton, and relict of Judge
Parys, Chamberlain of North Wales and Chester, succeeded in the
18th of Henry VI. to the estates of his father, and also to those of the
judge, and likewise succeeded the latter in his important office of
Chamberlain of North Wales, — an honour continued to several of
his posterity. — It is remarkable that in this time the severity of the
laws against the Welsh were so rigidly enforced that he was made
denizen of England, on condition that he should not marry a Welsh
wroman ; and accordingly he espoused a daughter of Sir Richard
Dalton. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, Piers Griffith,* lord of
that place, distinguished himself as a naval officer. He sailed from
Beaumaris on the 20th of April, 1538, and arrived at Plymouth on
the 4th of May, where he was most honourably received by that,
gallant commander, Sir Francis Drake. He shared with the other
men of rank and courage in the honour of defeating the Spanish
Armada. After that distinguished victory he joined with Sir Francis
Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh in their different expeditions against
the Spaniards in the West Indies ; but in the reign of James the
First, continuing his depredations against the Spaniards after peace
was proclaimed, he was called to account, and was so harassed by

prosecutions,
x 2 „

* Me married Margaret, daughter of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Knight, and had by her
three sons, all of whom died young. It is said he built or repaired ships at Abercegin,
where there were of late years, on the gable end of a house, his initials, P. G and the
date 1598.

34 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

prosecutions, that he was obliged to mortgage bis estate to defray tbe
expenses, — part to some citizens of London, and part to Evan Lloyd,
Esq. of Yale; the latter of whom, in conjunction with Sir Richard
Trevor, bought the whole, and sold it to the Lord Keeper Williams
in 1622. The Archbishop bequeathed it to Griffith Williams, son of
his eldest brother, created a Baronet, June 17th, 1661. His son,
Sir Robert, the last owner who inhabited Penrhyn, left three daugh-
ters : Frances, who was first married to Robert Lloyd, Esq. of
Ecclusham, near Wrexham, afterwards to Edward Lord Russell,
third son of the first Duke of Bedford; Anne, who married Thomas
Warburton, of Winnington, Cheshire; and Gwen, who married Sir
Walter Yonge, of Devonshire. Lord Russell having no issue, gene-
rously resigned his part of the estate to the surviving sisters. Sir
George Yonge, grandson of the former, sold his moiety to the late
John Pennant, Esq, whose son Richard Pennant, afterwards Lord
Penrhyn, became possessed of the whole by virtue of his marriage
with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the late General
Warburton, of W'innington. The old buildings stood round a court,
and consisted of a gateway, chapel, tower, vast hall, and a few other
apartments ; and by several ruins their former extent could be traced.
The house was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VI. by Gwilym ap
Gruffydd. The Stanley arms (those of his wife coupled with his
own) were to be seen in the hall windows till the year 1764. By the
initials R. G. and the date 1575, it appears that Sir Rhys Gruffydd
repaired it in that year. The room above the entrance was used as
the office of the Chamberlain of North Wales, which dignified station
was, as before stated, conferred on many of that family. The ancient
fee was £20 annually. The chamberlain acted as chancellor to each
of the Welsh circuits, and each had his seal, which served for the
shires comprehended within the circuit : his court for this circuit was
held at Caernarvon. The late proprietor, Lord Penrhyn, made very
considerable alterations in the buildings; and his successor is at
present (1830) engaged in rebuilding the whole on an extensive scale,
and in a most magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most
complete castellated baronial mansions, perhaps, in the kingdom.
The situation is unrivalled in this, or probably, any other part of
Great Britain, commanding a complete view of Beaumaris bay, the
towns of Bangor and Beaumaris, together with Baron Hill, Fryars,
and Beaumaris castle, and a great part of the island of Anglesea,
Priestholm Island, Ormshead, Penmaenmawr, and the whole of the
stupendous range of the Caernarvonshire mountains, terminating in
the peaks of the Rivals near Clynnog. A grand massive, substantial
gateway, on a corresponding plan, has been completed, together with
a handsome park wall. There is also an elegant chapel near the
house for the accommodation of the family ; and on the beach there
are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths, built by the late

Lady

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 35

Lady Penrhyn. In the church, which is a neat structure in the
form of a cross, with a tower in the centre, supported within by four
arches, are several monuments ; one (alabaster) of an armed man and
his lady* recumbent : they are supposed by Mr. Pennant to have
been removed here at the Dissolution from the Friary at Llanvaes,
near Beaumaris. Here is also a mutilated monument to the memory
of Archbishop Williams, with his figure in his episcopal dress,
kneeling at the altar; under it is a lon£ latin inscription.' The late
Reverend Sneyd Davies wrote a beautiful poem to his memory, which
is preserved in Dodsley's collections. Here is also a most superb
monument to the memory of the late Lord Penrhyn, erected by his
lady, and executed by Westmacott. On it are several figures, repre-
sented as lamenting the death of their lord : two full-lengths, the male
a quarryman, with the tools belonging to his employment, and the
female a young peasant of the country. In the back-ground are
several other smaller figures.-^— It would exceed our limits to enter
into a minute detail of all the improvements made by the late Lord
Penrhyn in this very interesting parish and its flourishing neighbour-
hood ; suffice it to observe, that about 40 years ago this part of the
country bore a most wild, barren, and uncultivated appearance, but
it is now covered with handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat
cottages, rich meadows, well-cultivated fields, and flourishing planta-
tions ; bridges have been built, new roads made, bogs and swampy
grounds drained and cultivated, neat fences raised, and barren rocks
covered with woods. In fact, what has been accomplished in this
neighbourhood in so short a space of time may be denominated a new
creation, and that principally by means of one active and noble-
minded individual, who disposed of his vast resources in various acts
of improvement ; and by so doing gave employment to hundreds of
his fellow-creatures, who were thus rendered comfortable and happy.
The slate quarries at Cae Braich y Cefn, the most considerable in
Wales, are the property of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq. : the rock has
been opened at a great expense, and the quarries are worked with
great judgment and to a vast extent, as there are about 1500 persons
constantly employed; it is computed that about 200 tons or upwards
of slates are daily conveyed down to Port Penrhyn. These quarries
were discovered so far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth, as
appears from a poetical composition written by John Tudyr, Re-
gistrar of the Ecclesiastical Court of Saint Asaph, and addressed to
Rowland Thomas, LL. D. Dean of Bangor, wherein he requests him
to procure him a ship-load of slates from Aber Ogwen, where it
seems they were then shipped, and not at Port Penrhyn. The above
gentleman was Dean of Bangor from 1570 to 1588. In the year
1740 the slates were all of one size, and very small; and when a
larger kind was introduced they were called doubles, and a still

larger
* These are supposed to be Gwilym ap Gruffydd, of this family, and his lady.

36 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

larger sort double doubles, and the men counted every thousand of
these as four thousand, being equal to as many of the small. General
Warburton, proprietor of the estate, being then in the county, called
the double doubles ladies, and a larger sort he denominated countesses ;
a thousand of the latter the workmen counted as eight thousand, and
this method of reckoning was continued until Lord Penrhyn took the
quarries into his own hands, which was about the year 1782, when
his lordship cleared the rubbish that had been accumulating for
ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and scientific manner,
and at a vast expense. His lordship also made an iron rail-road from
Port Penrhyn to these quarries, being the distance of six miles. He
likewise erected a large saw-mill within a quarter of a mile of the
slate rock, where slate slabs are sawn into chimney-pieces, tomb-
stones, and for other purposes. New sorts of slates covering roofs
have also been introduced, and denominated queens, duchesses,
patents, &c. His lordship erected another mill for the purpose of
grinding down flints, quartz, &c. for the uses of the porcelain or china
manufactories; and near it another large and curious machine, for
pressing oil out of linseed, and for grinding paint. Lastly, to crown
all his other acts of munificence, he built an elegant and com-
modious new church for the accommodation of the quarrymen,
and also a good house for the residence of the clergyman, to which
he added a handsome endowment. Ogwen pool, whence the river of
that name issues, is partly in this parish and partly in Llanllechid, and
abounds with fine trout, which in season cuts red like salmon. Llyn
Idwal, another small lakje not far from Ogwen, is also in this parish :
near this pool, according to tradition, a young prince of that name
(Idwal or Edwal) was murdered by his foster-father. It is not an
unfit place for such horrid deeds, as it seems completely secluded
from the world, and is surrounded by frightful rocks and precipices.
The shepherds fable that it is the haunt of daemons, and that no bird
will fly over its baneful waters, which, according to their account, are
as fatal as those of Avernus.

" Quam super baud ullae poterant impune volante tendere iler pennis."

Above it is the dark, tremendous split rock, Twll Du, called by the
Welsh Cegin y Diawl, the Devil's Kitchen. Llyn Bochllwyd, situate
to the south of Ogwen, and considerably above it, is also in this
parish, and the brook which proceeds from it runs into Llyn Ogwen.
Llanfair Fechan (little Saint Mary's) has its church dedicated to
Saint Mary, and is situate near the great and tremendous Penmaen-
mawr. The church is very small, and stands on a small eminence just
above the road. Near the sea-shore, in this parish, is Bryn y Neuodd,
an old decayed family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey
Roberts, Esq. and afterwards of Robert Wynne, Esq. In the begin-
ning of the sixth century Seiriol, a British saint, is said to have lived
i hermit between the two summits of Penmaenmawr, where still is to

be

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 37

be seen what are called his bed and well ; but his hermitage being
robbed, the saint retired to a small island on the Anglesey coast,
Priestholm, where he built a chapel and a cell, and there he is
thought to have died. Immediately under and adjoining this parish
and that of Aber there was, in former times, a large tract of land
{now at high water covered by the tide) about 12 miles in length by
7 or 8 in breadth, being formerly in possession of Helig ap Glanog,
and where he had his llys or court; the whole of which, in the sixth
century, was overflowed by the sea. It is now denominated Traeth y
Lavan, or the Lavan Sands, derived from traeth (sands) and lavan
(sea-liverwort or laver, which here grows in great abundance).

Llangelynin. — The church is conveniently situated (as many of the
Welsh churches are) in a very retired place, and nearly at the upper
extremity of the parish. It is dedicated to Saint Celynin, who,
according to the account given in an ancient Welsh manuscript, called
Achau'r Saint, i, e. The Pedigrees of the Saints, was son of Helig ap
Glanog, and brother of Rhychwyn, Brothen, and Peris.

Llangystennyn has its church dedicated to Saint Cystennyn, sur-
named the Blessed, the eightieth king of Britain. In the east window
of this church there is some old painted glass, on which are repre-
sented the figures of our Saviour, Saint George and the Dragon, and
Justice: in another window appears the figures of Saint Peter, Saint
Nicholas, and Saint Catherine.

Llandrillo.— • The church is dedicated to Saint Trillo, one of the
sons of Ithael Hael. This Trillo accompanied Cad van into Wales
dn the beginning of the sixth century. Near the shore is a singular
little building, called Saint Trillo's chapel. Not far from the church
is a large ruined house, called Bryn Euryn, formerly called Llys
Maelgwyn Gwynedd, who, it is said, had a palace on this spot.
About the twelfth century it was inhabited by the great Ednyved
Fychan ; and until the last century it was possessed by a family of
the name of Conway, who derived their origin from Gruflfydd or
Griffith Goch, Lord of Rhos and Rhuvoniog. Rhos Vynach, or the
Marsh of the Monks, was at one time the property of Conway abbey.
There is a considerable weir near this point, and the bishop of the
diocese and the vicar of this parish claim the fish taken here at every
tenth tide. In former times, mackerel to the amount of 40 pounds
have been taken here in two successive tides.

Llanbedry Cennin.— r-The church is dedicated to Saint Peter. On
the summit of a hill called Pen Caer Helen is a strong British fort-
ress, guarded by several fosses and strong ramparts of stones.
There is a horse-road by the church, over the mountain called Bwlch
y Ddauvaen, to Aber. There is a fine water-fall near Porthllwyd, in
this parish, not far from the road to Llanrwst.

Llanrhychwyn has its church dedicated to Saint Rhychwyn, who
lived about the middle of the sixth century. Near a small lake in

this

38 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

this parish,, called Llyn Geirionydd, lived the celebrated bard
Taliesin. In one of the windows of the church is some painted glass,
and the following inscription: — Sancte Rhychwin, ora pro riobis.

Llandegwnning1. — The church is dedicated to Saint Tegonwy, who
lived at the close of the fifth and beginning of the sixth century. It
is situate near the river Sochan. In an old manuscript, Llandegwn-
ning is represented as a chapel of ease to Llaniestyn, and said to be
dedicated to Saint Gwnning. A tribute of respect is justly due from
his countrymen to the memory of Colonel Evan Jones, of Gelliwig,
in this parish, who frequently distinguished himself in the late war,
both in the West Indies under Sir Charles Grey, and in Holland and
Egypt under Sir Ralph Abercrombie. He died at Rose Hill, near
Wrexham, 25th March, 1821.

Liang wynodyl, alias Llangwnadl. — The church is dedicated to
Saint Micnael and to Saint Gwynhoydyl: the latter lived about the
middle of the sixth century. The church consists of three naves, and
is constructed on arches, on one of which is the following inscription
in large Roman characters: — " S. Gwynhoydyl jacet hie 750," and
on another, " Haec aedes aedificata est A.D. M.

Llan Engan, or Eineon Frenin, has its church dedicated to Saint
Einion, a saint who lived about the middle of the sixth century.
Upon the tower of the church is an inscription, though now nearly
effaced, signifying that it was built by Einion, the king of Lleyn.
Owain is said to have founded a college at Penmon, over which he
placed his brother Seiriol as principal, and where the people of Scan-
dinavia resorted generally to be instructed in the Christian faith :
the seminary was afterwards called Cor Seiriol. He also, in con-
junction with Emyr Llydaw, founded the college of Enlli or Bardsey,
since called Cor Cadvan, from Cadvan, who built an abbey there, and
became abbot. On the east, about a mile from the mainland, are two
small islands, called Saint TudwaFs. The islands are appropriated
for a sheepwalk during the summer months, and are annually fre-
quented by vast numbers of puffins, which breed there in the month
of July: there are also a few rabbits on them. Upon one of them
are the ruins of a small chapel, dedicated to Saint Tudwal, and which
was, some time ago, converted into a barn, when the island was under
tillage. Leland has noticed these islands in the following words :-—
" Almost a mile from Penrhyn Dee, in Leene, is Inis Tidwale, six
acres in compass. Jn it is a little church desolate. There be kept
sheep, and there be conies. It is a mile from Penrhyn land by south-
east. There is a church in Leene, called Llan Engan Vrenin, i. e.
Fanum Niniani Reguli, where was of late pilgrimage to Aber Daron
and Enlli (Bardsey). The famous road of Saint Tudwal is reckoned
to be one of the best and safest in Great Britain, and it is so exten-
sive, that it would contain the whole navy of Great Britain, with good
holding ground of stiff blue clay."

Llanbcdrog

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 39

Llanbedrog has its church dedicated to Saint Pedrog, who lived
about the beginning of the seventh century. On a mountain, about a
mile above Castelhnarch, are the remains of a cromlech, near a place
called Yr Hen Enfail ; the top stone is about two yards square and
two feet thick, there are three supporters still remaining, and the
broken remains of three others.

Llangian. — The church is dedicated to Saint Cian, according to
Dr. W. O. Pughe; but Mr. Browne Willis says to Saint Peris. This
Cian is said to have been Peris's disciple. On a marble cenotaph in
his church is the following inscription to the memory of the brave
Captain Edwards, R. N. : — " Sacred to the memory of Timothy
Edwards, Esq. of Nanhoran, who being appointed to the command
of the Cornwall man of war of 74 guns in the year 1777, and having
in the course of a twelvemonth distinguished himself in four successive
engagements in the West Indies against the French fleet, was unfor-
tunately, on his return home, carried off by a bilious fever, on the
12th day of July, 1780, aged 49, before he had received those
honours from his king and country which were destined to be the
reward of his gallant services. His disconsolate widow, penetrated
with the deepest sorrow for her loss, caused this monument to be
erected. On his arrival in England he was to have been created a
Baronet, and to have been elected Member of Parliament for Ayles-
bury, Bucks." Near the sea-coast in this parish is an old mansion,
called Castellmarch, now the property of Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq.
Lord Lieutenant of the County. Over the porch is the date 1628,
with the arms of the Jones's of Castellmarch, who were descended
from Meirion Goch, of Lleyn, viz. Argent, a chevron Azure between
three nags' heads erased Sable ; and in one of the rooms, over the
fire-place, " Vivat post funera virtus." Sir William Jones, Knight,
the gentleman who built the house, was kidnapped (according to the
tradition of the country-people) and carried prisoner to France, for
having given some offence to his workmen ; but as he and Thomas
Price, of Plas lolyn, Esq. were out during the Spanish war, and car-
rying on their depredations after peace was proclaimed, it is more
reasonable to suppose that he was taken and carried away as a
prisoner to answer for his misconduct. Sir William Williams, of
Vaynol, Baronet, having married Margaret Jones, the heiress of
Castellmarch, became thus possessed of the property.

Llangybi. — The church is dedicated to St. Cybi, or Kybi. Here
is a fine spring of water, which is in great repute, and said to be
efficacious in paralytic, epileptic, and rheumatic cases ; the water is
rough and bitter to'the taste.

Llanarmon has its church dedicated to Saint Garmon, one of the
most distinguished of the British saints. Plas Dii is in this parish,
an old mansion which had the honour of giving birth to two cele-
brated characters, viz. John Owen, the well-known epigrammatist;

and

40 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

and John Evans, Bishop of Bangor from 1701 to 1715, when he was
translated to Meath, and succeeded by Dr. Benjamin Hoadley.

Llanystyundwy, or Llanystyndwy. — The church is dedicated to
Saint John the Baptist. Plas Hen, in this parish, is now the pro-
perty of Sir Thomas Mostyn. Its original name was Tal Henbont,
and was the property of the Vaughans, who were descended from
Collwyn ap Tangno, the head of one of the fifteen tribes. The
heiress of this house first married Evan Lloyd Vaughan, Esq. and,
secondly, William Lloyd, Esq. a younger son of Bod Idris.

Llanelhaiarn. — The church is dedicated to Saint Elhaiarn, who
lived in the middle of the seventh century. Near the church is a fine
well, once much frequented on account of its reputed sanctity. Y
Gyrn Ddu, Gyrn Goch, and Voel Penllechog are high hills in this
parish ; and Voel Bron Miod, Bwlch Drwswnewl, and Gaer Tyddyn-
mawr are old fortifications and remarkable passes between the
mountains.

Llanllyfni has its church dedicated to Saint Rhecliw, a saint whose
history is not known. The river Llyfni, which rises in the Nanlle
lakes, in the upper part of the parish, runs through it and occasions
two divisions; out of each of which a churchwarden and constable are
annually appointed. The Nanlle Lakes are two in number, and in
the direction of Snowdon: one of them is upwards of half a-mile in
length and half-a-mile in breadth, the other is nearly half-a-mile in
length and the same in breadth, being half a stone's throw distant
from each other. The waters from the copper works of Drwsycoed
are said to have considerably diminished the quantity of fish in them ;
but there are two smaller lakes in the mountain, called Llyn Cwm
Silin and Llyn Cwm Dylyn, that are more favourable for anglers.
A great quantity of slate is quarried in this parish, and also in that
part of the parish of Llandwrog immediately adjacent, which are
conveyed to and exported from Caernarvon. One side of this parish
being bounded by a chain of mountains renders the scenery rather
romantic ; and it is thought that Snowdon, though not less than eight
miles distant, appears to a greater advantage from the parsonage-
house than from any other place. Craig y Dinas, i. e. the City
Rock, is a piece of ground of a circular form, about 70 yards in
diameter, rather steep on the side that is close to the river Llyfni,
and on the other side run two mounds, a few yards distant from each
other, forming a ditch between them ; that which is nearest to the
platform is covered with stones, as if there had been some building, or
that they had been intended for that purpose. The tradition of the
parishioners is, that there was anciently a town there, and that there
is still money undiscovered on the spot ; and that a church once stood
upon it. A stone fence now surrounds the green area ; and though
the idea of its having been once a town is the most prevalent, it is,
however, thought to have been an old military position. Michael

Prichard,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 41

Prichard, the poet, was born here about the year 1710, and died in
1731. Several of his works are preserved, which possess great
merit. Here Saint Rhediw, according to Mr. Owen, was buried ;
and they shew his well, his seat, the print of his horse's shoe, and the
mark of his thumb on a stone. These are some of the remains of the
superstitious legends of the dark ages of popery. In the church-
yard are the following inscriptions on tomb-stones : — ' ' Here lyeth the
body of the Rev. and learned Foulk Price, late Rector of this parish,
who was a faithful shepherd of his flock 35 years, and died January
27th, 1706, aged 70 years." Also, " The 'Reverend Lewis Price,
Rector, died May the 8th, 1714, aged 33: this stone was put
up by his son, the Reverend J. Price, Vicar of Conway." " Reverend
William Evans, died July the 2d, 1732, aged 35." On another
stone, — " Underneath lie the remains of Richard Garnons, of Pant
Du, Gent, and Catherine his first wife: she was buried on the 7th
day of July, 1718, aged 36; and he on the 17th day of April, 1742,
aged 77, after having served in his youthful days as a volunteer in all
the Irish wars."

Llandwrog has its church dedicated to Saint Twrog.* In this
parish is Glynn Llivon, once the residence of Cilmin Troed-ddu, head
of one of the 15 tribes of North Wales, but now the seat of the Right
Hon. Lord Newborough. It has lately been repaired, and the house
furnished in a most costly and superb manner : numerous rare paint-
ings and various antiquities of value have been brought hither from
Italy and other parts of the continent. His lordship has also made
many improvements about the house, principally by enlarging the
park, about which has been built a lofty wall. Dinas Dinlle, a forti-
fied eminence on the verge of the sea, was an old Roman encampment,
and several coins have been discovered there at different times. On
the 15th of November, 1810, Joseph Williams, Esq. of Glan yr
Afon, exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries of London a ring, in the
stone of which was cut the Goddess of Victory, with a trophy, which
was discovered in the ruins of Dinas Dinlle, a township in this parish,
which implies <f the fortified place in the marsh," about 80 years
ago, and which he had worn as a singular rarity for the last 50 years.
Remains of a Roman road leading from Dinas Dinlle to Segontium
were visible till within these few years, and two small fords on it are
still distinguished by the names of Rhyd yr Equestri and Rhyd y
Pedestri, i. e. the horse and foot fords. The following is a list of
forts in this and the neighbouring parish of Llanwnda : — Dinas y Prif ;
Hen Gastell; Dinas Franog, a square fort; Caer Ifridd; Bwlan;
Bryn y Gorseddau; Carnedd Angharad; Bedd Gwennon; Bettws
Gwenrhyw; Talwrn yr Arch; Murian Gwilym Ddu, or Tyddyn

Tudur

* Dr. Davies, under the word Tiboeth, in his Welsh and Latin Dictionary, mentions a
remarkable book, called " Tiboeth Twrog," formerly kept in Clynnog church, and seen
by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trevriw, in 1594. This book was supposed to have been
miraculously preserved when the church was burnt,

42 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Tudur Aled, being the remains of the dwelling of the poet of that
name.

Llanwnda has its church dedicated to Saint Gwyndav (some say to
Saint Beuno). Gwyndav lived about the middle of the sixth century,
and was buried at Bardsey. Dinas Dinoeth was an old Roman
encampment connected with Segontium and Dinas Dinlle. The
late Reverend Mr. Farrington, who wrote a short account of all the
Roman encampments in this county, and the outposts connected with
them, resided in this parish.

Mellteyrn, alias Myllteyrn. — The church is dedicated to Saint
Peter in Vincula. This parish is divided into two equal parts by a
rivulet, called Rhydlas, the western division being in the hundred of
Cwmwtmaen, and the eastern in that of Cyfflegion. A river called
Cavaen, which runs from north to south on the east part of the parish,
separates it from the chapelry of Bottwnog: and another river, called
Sochan, which runs from north to south on the west part of the
parish, separates it from the parish of Bryncroes. Bishop Rowland,
who founded a free-school at Bottwnog, was bom at Plas Myllteyrn,
in this parish, and was Rector of this parish in 1572. In 1584 he
became Rector of Aberdaron, and Prebendary of Penmynydd; and in
1593 Bishop of Bangor. He founded two fellowships at Jesus
College, Oxford, and an hospital for six poor men at Bangor. He
died July 6th, 1616, and was buried at Bangor.

Pistill, orPistyll, is situate upon the bay of Caernarvon, at the foot
of the Rivals. Nor far off is that gloomy hollow called Nant Gwrth-
eryn, or Vortigem's Valley, before described, and which tradition
assigns as one of the retreats of that cruel tyrant. Tre 'r Ceiri, the
encampments and fortifications in this neighbourhood, so well de-
scribed by Mr. Pennant, are well worthy the attention of the anti-
quary ; and Carreg y Llam, the side of the mountain next the sea, is a
tremendous precipice, along the edges of which are arranged, at
different heights, the nests of different birds of passage that frequent
this place in the summer season; and belowr, just above high water-
mark, is a curious cave, visited by tourists. The church is dedicated
to Saint Beuno. The name Pistyll signifies " the water spout."

Penmorva has its church dedicated to Saint Beuno. A new town,
called Tremadoc, has been built in this parish by the late lamented
W. Alexander Madocks, Esq. for many years M. P. for Boston ; and
an elegant new church has also been erected. An embankment, one
mile in extent, across the sand called Traeth Mawr, and forming a
safe communication between the two counties, has likewise been made
by the same gentleman ; and at the end of this embankment is a
wharf or quay for vessels to load and unload. In Penmorva church
is a handsome monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, of Clen-
neney, in this parish, a royalist general and supporter of Charles the
First. He was condemned by the parliament to lose his head, but

through

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 43

through the interest of Ireton, his advocate, was for a few months
imprisoned in Windsor Castle, and then restored to his friends. He
died in the year 1666, aged 66. His wife was Janet, daughter of
Griffith Vaughan, Esq. of Cors y Gedol. His grand-daughter,
Elena Owen, caused this memorial to be erected. Here is also a
smaller monument to the memory of Sir William Maurice, Knight, of
Clenneney, who died 10th August, 1622. Humphrey Humphreys,
D. D. Bishop of Ban gor from 1690 to 1701, resided some years at
Cessail Gyvarch, in this parish. It was from this part of the coast
that Madoc, the son of Owain Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales in
1170, is reported to have sailed for America.

Penmachno is situate near the source of the Machno, from which it
takes its name. Dr. William Morgan, Bishop of Saint Asaph, who
first translated the Old Testament into Welsh, was born at a place
called Ewybr Nant, in this parish. Hugh Machno, a celebrated
Welsh bard, who had a poetical contest with Archdeacon Price about
the year 1595, was also a native of this parish. There are several
slate quarries in this parish ; and the church is dedicated to Saint
Tudelyd.

Rhiw. — The church is dedicated to Saint Aelrhyw, and is situated
near Porth Rhiew, on Cardigan bay. There is also a well here,
called Ffynnon Aeliw (a contraction of Aelrhiw), the waters of which
are supposed to be efficacious in the cure of cutaneous disorders, par-
ticularly one of that description called Mann Aeliw.

BARDSEY ISLAND, called Ynys Enlli, or the Island in the Current,
is in the parish of Aberdaron, and situate about a mile from the
south-western part of the mainland of Caernarvonshire : it is a re-
markable fertile plain, about two miles in circumference, and well
cultivated. It is venerable for the remains of its ancient abbey,
which was originally a large stone building. Not far from the abbey
is a singular chapel or oratory, consisting of a long arched building,
with an insulated stone altar near the east, where one of the inhabit-
ants often reads prayers. It was founded in the year 516 : Lletiddadd or
Laudatus was the first abbot, and it was valued at the Dissolution at
about £56. It was dedicated to Saint Mary ; and here Dubricius,
the Archbishop, retired after his resignation of the see of Canterbury
about the year 522. Saint Daniel, the first Bishop of Bangor, is said
to have been buried here; and also Merddin ab Morvyrn (the bard),
Hywyn ab Gwyndav Hen, Cadwallon, Cadvan, Saint Beuno, Saint
Padarn, Deirden, Dervel, and many other pious men and saints.
Cadwallon, son of Owain Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, was
abbot of Bardsey, as was also Robert, son of Meredydd ab Ivan, who
married the daughter of Eineon ap Ithel, of Rhiwedog, esquire to
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. This island was granted by
Edward the Sixth to his uncle Sir Thomas Seymour, and after his
death to John Earl of Warwick. Sir John Wynne, of Glynnllivon,

grandfather

44 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

grandfather to Lord Newborough, purchased it from the late Reverend
John Wilson, of Newark, and it still remains in that family. John
Wynne ap Hugh, of the family of Bodvel, was standard-bearer at the
battle of Norwich, in the time of Edward the Sixth, for which service
he had granted to him Bardsey and Court in Aberdaron; and was
sheriff of Caernarvonshire in 1551 : he married Elizabeth, daughter
of Sir John Puleston, by a daughter of Robert ap Meredith ap
Hwlkin Llwyd, of Glynnllivon. The spiritual concerns are now
under the care of a single rustic ; although the island is said to have
formerly afforded an asylum for 20,000 saints for life, and after death
graves for as many bodies; on which Dr. Fuller judiciously observes,
" It icould be more facile to find graves for as many saints than
saints for so many graves" The slaughter of the monks at Bangor
Iscoed, in Flintshire, about the year 607, is supposed to have contri-
buted to the population of Bardsey ; for many pious persons fled here
to avoid the persecutions of the Saxons, and sought islands and desert
places, in which they might in security worship the true God.

The undermentioned celebrated or learned Personages were Na-
tives or Residents of Caernarvonshire — Chief Justice Glynne, born
at Glyn Llivon ; Archbishop Williams ; Bishops Rowlands, Vaughan,
Robinson, Humphreys, Evans, Griffith, and Morgan (who translated
the Old Testament into Welsh) ; Sir William Maurice, and Sir John
Owen, of Clenneney ; Sir Howel y Fwyall ; Dr. Thomas Williams,
ofTrevriw, author of a Latin-Welsh Dictionary; Mrs. Piozzi ; John
Owen, of Plas Du, the Epigrammatist. Also the following Bards : —
Taliesin; Gwilym Ddu o Arvon ; Robin Ddu; Rhys Goch o Eryri ;
William Lleyn ; Hugh Lleyn; Hugh Machno; William Cynwal, of
Dolwyddelan, 1590; Cadwaladr Cessail : Hugh Pennant; Lewis
Daron; Rh)Ts Nanmor; David Nanmor; Roger Kyffin, Rector of
Llanberris. Its modern Bards have been Michael Prichard, a poet ;
Reverend Mr. Farrington; David Thomas, alias Davydd Ddu o
Eryri; and Sion Lleyn.

DENBIGHSHIRE.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 45

DENBIGHSHIRE.

I HIS county took its name from the principal town, Denbigh, in
Welsh called Dinbach, i.e. the small fortification or town; or, from
its situation in a retired corner, Bach or Cilfach. Its most ancient
name was Caled-vryn yn Rhos, or the hard rock in the hundred of
Rhos. Denbighshire is bounded on the east by Flintshire and
Shropshire, on the south by Merionethshire and part of Montgomery-
shire, on the West by Caernarvonshire, and on the north by the
Irish Sea. It extends about 30 miles in length, and 15 in breadth.
This part of the county, prior to the conquest of Wales by Edward
the First, appears to have been possessed by David ap Gruffydd, one
of the Welsh princes ; for Sir John Wynne, in his History of the
Gwydir Family, informs us, " that Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln,
wishing to make a princely seat of Denbigh castle, by force compelled
the children of the said David ap Gruflfydd to exchange their posses-
sions about Denbigh castle with him for other lands of less value in
the said lordship, in the furthest part from him. The mountains in
this county are not so lofty as those of Caernarvonshire and Merioneth-
shire, and the climate is milder and more temperate, particularly in
the Vale of Clwyd. Moel Famma, the highest hill in this county, is
not above 1850 feet high; besides the mountains in this county in
general have none of that barren, steep, rocky, and terrific appearance
which constitutes the characteristic of those in the neighbourhood of
Snowdon and Cader Idris. A new line of road is opened fromPentre
Voelas to Denbigh over Hiraethog mountain, which in its present
uncultivated state has a very desolate and barren appearance, and the
traveller has to proceed many miles without seeing any human habita-
tion. After the conquest of Wales by Edward the First, the king
politically secured his new acquisitions by bestowing several of the
lordships on his followers. The castle of Ruthin, together with the
cantref of DyfFryn Clwyd, he bestowed on Reginald de Grey; to
which were added the townships of Maesmynan, Penbedw, and
Blowite, as dependencies on the castle : and out of this ancient cantref
was formed the present Lordship of Ruthin, which comprehends
several parishes. It remained in the family of the Greys till the
time of Richard Earl of Kent, who, having dissipated his fortune by
gambling, sold it to Henry the Seventh. Queen Elizabeth bestowed
it on Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick ; and it is now in the posses-
sion of a branch of the Chirk castle family. Reginald de Grey was
the nobleman who unjustly possessed himself of Croesau (some lands
belonging to Owain Glyndwr), and was thus the cause of that chief-
tain's rebellion. The king also gave the lordship of Denbigh to
Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who built the castle, and enclosed with

46 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

a wall the town he found there. Among other privileges, he gave
his vassals the liberty of destroying all the wild beasts on the lord-
ship, except in certain parts reserved out of the grant for the purpose
of the particular amusement of their lord. In the reign of Henry the
Sixth we find the names of five parks in this lordship.* On the
death of Lacy the lordship passed to Thomas Earl of Lancaster, by
virtue of his marriage with Alicia, daughter of the last possessor.
After the attainder of Thomas, Edward the Second bestowed it on
Hugh D'Espencer, as Lord of Denbigh, who proved an oppressive
superior, and abridged the inhabitants of the privileges granted them
by Lacy. By the fatal end of that favourite it fell again to the crown.
Roger Mortimer, Earl of March, succeeded Hugh D'Espencer as
Lord of Denbigh, by grant from Edward the Third; and upon his
death William Mountacute, Earl of Salisbury, was invested with the
same authority. He died in 1333; and on the reversal of the
attainder of the Earl of March, it was restored to his family in the
person of his grandson Roger: but by the marriage of Anne, sister to
another Roger, last Earl of March, with Richard Plantagenet, Earl
of Cambridge, it came into the House of York, and so again to the
crown. Queen Elizabeth, in 1563, bestowed it as a most valuable
gift on her favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who soon
made the county feel the weight of his oppression. Notwithstanding
the tenants made him a present of £2000 at his first entrance into the
lordship, he remained dissatisfied, and compelled the freeholders to
raise the old rents of £250 a-year to £800 or £900: he also enclosed
the waste lands, to the great injury of the tenants, who, offended at
his rapacity, arose and levelled his encroachments. This was con-
strued into a riot and rebellion, and two hopeful young men of
the house of Lleweni wera taken to Shrewsbury, where they were
tried and executed for the pretended offence. He had the insolence
to mortgage the manor to some merchants in London, and, as it is
generally believed, deceived them for their credulity. The various
disorders which arose from these practices were so great that Elizabeth
interposed, and by charter confirmed the quiet possession of the
tenants, and allayed the discontents. These were again excited in
the reign of King William by the vast grant made to the Earl of
Portland ; the same ferments arose, and the same means were used to
allay them. At present this and the other manors of Bromfield,
Maelor, and Yale remain in the crown, and are superintended by a
steward appointed by the king. The noblemen to whom grants were
made by Edward the First introduced a great number of Englishmen
into Wales as their retainers. Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, brought
with him the Lathams, Knowsleys, Curthoses, Pigots, Heitons,
Peaks, Thelwalls, Goodmans, Moyles, Jervises, &c. ; and many others

were

* Moylcwike (Molowip) ; Carrsnodooke (Carry Miodojj); Kylford (Cnlffordd) ; Bag-
hay (Bachau) j Poscy, of which Ihe king constituted Owain Tydyr Rang* r.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 47

were the followers of Reginald de Grey. As the Welsh were pos-
sessed of a proud spirit of independence, and had enjoyed the sweets
of liberty for many years under their own native princes, the English
yoke must have appeared to them intolerably galling and oppressive ;
some allowances must therefore be made for their resistance to the
exactions, tyrannical oppressions, and cruelties of their haughty con-
querors. We have a long list of their complaints which were sent at
different times to the English kino-; and as these were but seldom
redressed, it is not to be wondered at if these degraded, but still
high-minded people, broke out into open rebellion, as was frequently
the case. Meirig Llwyd ap Bleddyn, of the house of Havodunos, in
this county, resentful of the injuries which he and his tenants re-
ceived from the English judges and officers, slew one of the first, and
hanged several of the latter on the oaks in his woods, by which he
forfeited to the crown the lands still known by the name of Tir Meiric
Llwyd, or the estate of Meiric Lloyd. The rebellion of Owain
Glyndwr may be adduced as another instance: to which may be
added the revolt of Sir Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd, who, being
indignant at the sufferings of his countrymen under the English yoke,
endeavoured to liberate them from the slavery to which they had
been reduced, and for a while pursued the invaders with resistless
impetuosity; but at length he was subdued and taken, and' underwent
the common fate of the Welsh insurgents. It may be further re-
marked, that notwithstanding all the ravages of long and barbarous
wars, Wales remained so populous that Edward drafted out of it no
less than 15,000 men in aid of his Scottish expedition ; and in the
3d year of Edward the Second, the barony of Powys sent. 400 men to
the same war; Rhos and Rhufonio^ (i. e. Denbigh land), 200; Ru-
th in, 200; Dyffryn Clwyd, 100; Nanheudwy and Glyndyfrdwy, 200;
Bromfield and Yale, 200; numbers far exceeding the present militia
proportions.

The principal lakes in this county are, Llynn Alwen, Llynn Aled,
and Llynn Moelvre. The chief rivers are, the Dee, the Clwyd, the
Alwen, Elwy, and the Aled; the two last run into the Clwyd, and
the former flow into the Dee.

DENBIGH,

The county town, is situated on the side of a craggy hill, near the
beautiful and fertile vale of Clwyd ; but being deserted in the reign
of Queen Elizabeth, a new town was built on a much larger scale at
the foot of a hill called by the Britons Cledfryn Rhos. This part of
the country, as mentioned before, was given by Edward the First to
David ap Gruffydd, brother to Llewelyn, the last Prince of North
Wales, who was afterwards beheaded for high treason. It was then
given to Lacy Earl of Lincoln, who fortified the town with a strong

wall

48 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

wall and Castle : the entrance is ve'ry magnificent, under a gothic arch,
over which is the statue of the founder, Henry Lacy, in stately flowing
robes; but his only son being unfortunately drowned in the well of
this castle, his grief was so great that he left it unfinished. After the
Earl's death it went by marriage with Alice his daughter into the
possession of the House of Lancaster. Edward the Second gave
it to Hugh Spencer. In Edward the Third's reign Roger Mortimer
became the possessor, and fixed his arms on the chief gate ; and he
being some time afterwards executed for treason, it went to Montague
Earl of Salisbury, but was soon afterwards restored to the Mortimers.
After many changes it came to the House of York, and now belongs
to the crown. It was delivered up to the parliament army in 1646,
and appears to have been a place of such strength, that after the
Restoration it was thought advisable to blow it up : the ruins are
still to be seen on the summit of a rock, sloping on all but one side,
which is a precipice. It was built in the year 1280. Charles the
First resided in it some time. The breaches about this building
shew that the manner of its construction was by two walls, occupying
the extremities of the intended thickness, built in the ordinary man-
ner, with a vacuity between them, in which was poured a mixture of
mortar and rough stones of all sizes, forming when dry a mass as hard
as stone itself; the castle was likewise almost impregnable from its
advantageous situation. About the time of Henry the Third, Adam
Saliesbury founded and endowed an abbey of Black Monks of the
Benedictine order, but it is now in ruins. Edward the Fourth was
besieged in the castle; and in the year 1459, Jasper Tudor, Earl of
Pembroke, half-brother to Henry the Second, possessed this place.
In the following year it was taken by the Yorkists ; and in 1468 Jasper
returned with two thousand Welshmen, and burnt the town. In
1645 the parliament gained a victory near this town over the royalists;
but the latter soon after got possession of the castle. It was besieged
by General Mytton, and gallantly defended by William Salisbury, of
Bachymbyd : and it is remarkable, that notwithstanding the orders of
fallen majesty, in June, 1646, for the general surrender of every garri-
son in England and Wales, on fair and honourable terms, the first
garrison in North Wales did not yield till two months after all the
English castles had submitted.

In the year 1828 the town of Denbigh was honoured with one of
those national festivals, an Eisteddvod, which was distinguished by
the display of extraordinary musical and other talent; and from the
numerous and distinguished company which attended, afforded a
striking proof of the zealous objects of bardic congresses. The Duke
of Sussex was present. The President of the meeting was Sir
Edward Mostyn, Baronet; and the Patrons were the Marquis of
Anglesey, Earl of Grosvenor, Earl Powis, Earl of Plymouth, Lord
Bagot, Lord Dungannon, Lord Newborough, Lord Dynevor, Lord

Clive,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 49

Olive, Lord Ashley, the Bishops of St. Asaph and Bangor, Sir W.
W. Wynn, Sir E. P. Lloyd, and Sir Charles Morgan, Barts. The
Vice-Presidents were fifty-two personages inhabiting Wales, including
eight Baronets and nine Members of Parliament.

Humphrey Lhwyd, the historian, was a native of Denbigh ; on
leaving which we pass through the vale of Dyffryn Clwyd. This is
in length from north to south 26 miles, and from 5 to 8 broad,
bounded by high mountains to the east and west, and almost shut up
by them to the south, except towards the Irish Sea, where it termi-
nates in a marsh at Rhyddlan. To the natural beauties of this vale
might justly be added its general aspect of cultivation, most enchant-
ingly diversified by a mixture of corn and pasture ground, with here
and there wood lands gently sloping down the declivity of its hills,
besides being interspersed with churches and pleasant villages, parti-
cularly those near the river Clwyd, where the land in every part
swells into a constant variety of inequalities, with numerous inclosures,
producing an agreeable variety of pasture and arable lands, which in
beauty almost exceed the natural richness of the soil. Through the
Clwydian hills is a remarkable pass, called Bwlch Agricola, supposed
to have been that through which Agricola marched on his way to
Anglesea. That the Romans were resident in these parts is evident
from the number of coins found in this parish. In this vale Caradoc
mentions a dreadful conflict in 1115 between Howel ap Meredith and
Howel ap Ithel, which, after great slaughter on both sides, ter-
minated in favour of the latter. David ap Owen, a prince of North
Wales, in 1164, invaded Flintshire with success, and carried away the
chief men of the country, and afterwards drove their cattle to Dyffryn
Clwyd otherwise Ruthinland.

Whitchurch is situate one mile to the south of Denbigh, and
contains little worth notice, except Saint Marcellus's church, which
has many monuments to great persons, particularly to Sir John Salis-
bury, of Lleweny, who died in 1578; and Richard Myddelton, in
1575. The latter was governor of Denbigh castle under Edward the
Sixth, Mary, and Elizabeth, and father of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who
planned and chiefly at his own expense brought the New River from
Ware to London. Whitchurch had a house of white friars, founded
by John Salisbury, who died in 1289, and which stood at the bottom
of the town. The chapel, though still entire, has long since been
converted into a barn.

Llanrhaiadr, or " The Village of the Fountain," is situate on a
small eminence in the middle of the vale, between Rnthin and Den-
bigh. The church, which is dedicated to Saint Dyvnog, who lived
about the close of the sixth century, is rather a handsome structure,
with a large and elegant east window, remarkable for a fine painting
of the genealogy of Christ, executed about the year 1533, and con-
taining
Y 2

50 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

taining all the names of the kings of Israel and Judah up to onr
Saviour. The Patriarch is represented upon his back, with the
genealogical tree springing from his stomach. In the churchyard is
a tomb-stone, with an inscription for John ap Robert, of Perthi,
a descendant of Cadel, King of Powys, who died in tiie year 1645, at
the advanced age of 95. Here are some alms-houses for eight poor
widows, founded by Mrs. Jones, of Llanrhaiadr, in 1729, and each
has her garden and two shillings a-week. From an eminence in this
parish, called Cader Gwladus (or Gwladus's Chair), there is a beauti-
fnl view of the vale between Denbigh and Ruthin, and at the foot of
this rising ground is Dyvnog's well (Ffynnon Saint Dyvnog). The
fountain is enclosed in an angular wall, decorated with small human
figures, and before it is the well for the use of pious bathers. It is
generally called Llanrhaiadr yn Cynmeirch and Llanrhaiadr yn
Nyffryn Clwyd, to distinguish it from Llanrhaiadr yn Mochnant.

RUTHIN,

Is a large and populous town, most delightfully situated on a consi-
derable eminence nearly in the centre of the vale of Clwyd. On
entering the town by the west gate, leading to the water's edge,
there is a fine picturesque appearance ; a broad street leads to the
market-house, near which stands the town-hall at right angles with
the church, which is dedicated to Saint Peter. The latter is a hand-
some building, with a monument and bust of Gabriel Goodman,
Dean of Westminster, who died in 1601 ; also a cross for his father,^
who died in 1560, aged 84, and his mother, aged 90. John, son of
Reginald de Grey, made this church collegiate in 1310, for seven
regulars. Adjoining the church were the apartments of the priests ;
part of which building has been repaired, and serves as the mansion
of the warden : but the tower of the church is clearly of a later date.
The tomb or monument which Churchyard calls that of an Earl of
Kent was probably the burial-place of John, son of Reginald de
Grey. Leland mentions a house of white friars in this town, which
stood probably in Prior's Street, but there are now no remains.
Here was a hospital and free-school, founded by the Goodmans; the
latter is still in great repute, and has, much to its honour, produced
some of the first classical scholars in the kingdom. Of its castle,
north of the town, only a few foundations of walls and the fragments
of one or two towers remain, which, from the great thickness, mani-
fest original strength. The stones used in building it are red, whence
it has been called Rhudd Ddin. The area of the castle is now a
meadow, and another part a bowling-green. The castle and town-
walls are supposed to have been built by Reginald de Grey, to whom
Edward the First, in 1281, gave nearly the whole of Dyffryn Clwyd,
for his active services against the Welsh. It was afterwards sold to
Henry the Seventh, but being neglected, soon fell into decay. At

present

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 51

present the east walls built within the town and its principal f- ont on
the west are nearly entire, with a gate, square tower, and battlements.
On this and the south side were formerly five handsome round towers,
which were well garrisoned in the civil wars for the king, but surren-
dered to General My tton in 1645, after a siege of two months; and
in the same year was dismantled by order of parliament. In the act
of revenge on Lord Grey, Owain Glyndwr, in 1400, during a fair,
set fire to the town, and destroyed the greater part, except the effects
of the merchants, of which Glyndwr, having plundered them, took
possession, and retired among the mountains. Dr. Gabriel Goodman
assisted in the English version of the Bible, and translated the first
and second Epistles to the Corinthians. He also was the patron of
the great Camden, who, by his means, was enabled to take those
travels by which the British nation has so much profited.

Near Ruthin is the neat little village of Ffynnon Saint Dyvnog,
remarkable for its well, to which we pass (through the churchyard)
by an alms-house to a plantation of trees, with a broad gravelled
walk almost concealed from day-light by thick foliage. Within this
place is the fountain, enclosed in an angular wall, forming a bath of
considerable size. Many wonderful qualities are attributed to this
water, but it is more particularly celebrated for curing the rheuma-
tism. At this place was formerly a chapel, dedicated to Saint
Dyvnog; in the lower part of which were some images of the twelve
apostles.

About three miles east of Ruthin is Llanarmon yn Yale (the church
of which is dedicated to Saint Garmon), a considerable village,
to which great pilgrimages were formerly made with offerings to
Saint Garmon. In the church is a monument, inscribed " Hicjacet
Gruffydd Llewelyn ap Ynyr," with five bloody fingers on his shield,
and a dog at his feet, carved on the lid of a stone coffin. — In this
parish are many tumuli, some composed of loose stones and earth,
under a layer of soil two feet thick and a coat of clay. In these
tumuli were discovered several urns reversed, and a flat stone without
urns, besides considerable fragments of burnt bones. An entire
skeleton, placed between flags of a proportionate size, was also found
in or near one of these carneddau.

At the distance of about 15 miles is Wrexham, to which we pass
through the village of Llandegla, the church of which is dedicated to
Tecla, a female saint whose history is not known. Near the church
is a small spring, under the tutelage of the saint, which is considered
efficacious in the falling-sickness, called by the Welsh <s Clwy Tecla"
(Tecla's disease). It is pleasantly situated on the banks of the
Cammerqn.

WREXHAM

Is a populous market town, and from its size and consequence not
improperly denominated the metropolis of North Wales: the build-
ings

52 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

ings are in general good, and the country around it very beautiful*
which has induced many families to fix their residence in its vicinity.
It appears to have been a place of great antiquity, being well-known
to the Saxons by the name of Wrightsham or Gwrecsam. The
church, dedicated to Saint Giles, according to Leland, formerly col-
legiate, is an elegant structure, 178 feet in length from east to west,
and 62 from north to south; the tower, dated 1506, is to the top of
the pinnacle 135 feet, and 22 square, adorned on three sides with
rows of 25 statues of saints, placed in rich gothic niches. Among
them is Saint Giles, the patron saint, with the hind which, according
to the legend, miraculously nourished him in the desert. The south
is unusually low, with an entrance, called the wedding door. The
organ was destroyed in 1641. The inside of the church is very
spacious, having over the pillars much grotesque carving, and
over the arches the arms of many of the British and Saxon princes.
It is not, however, loaded with carving as many gothic churches are,
but is plain and kept extremely neat. Here are two good monuments,
the work of Roubiliac ; the one, in memory of Mary, daughter of Sir
Richard Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, who died in 1747, is particu-
larly fine. She is represented bursting from the tomb, and with a
countenance truly angelic, in which the mixture of surprise and
admiration is so finely and strongly expressed, that it is almost
possible to fancy it more than stone. In the back-ground an ancient
pyramid, falling to pieces, is excellently represented ; and the whole
must afford delight to every admirer of fine sculpture. The other
monuments are to the memory of the Reverend Thomas Myddelton
and Arabella his wife; opposite to the former is a recumbent figure of
Hugh Bellot, Bishop of Bangor, who died in 1596. Under the
belfry is an antique monument, found about a century ago in digging
a foundation for iron gates to the church-yard ; it represents a knight
in complete armour, with his foot resting on some kind of animal, his
legs extended, and a long sword parallel with them, the hilt in the
right hand; on the left arm is a shield with a lion or wolf rampant,
and round it some large Saxon characters, not legible on account of
its dark situation under the staircase. The altar piece (a fine paint-
ing representing the institution of the sacrament) was brought from
Rome, and given to the church by Elihu Yale, Esq. of Plas Gronow,
near Erddig, who was interred in the church -yard in 1726, aged 75
years, with the following inscription on his tomb:^ —

Born in America, in Europe bred, ^

In Afric travell'd, and in Asia wed,
Where long he lived and thriv'd— In London dead.>
Much good, some ill he did ; so hope all's even,
And that his soul, thro* mercy's gone to heaven.
You that survive and read this tale take care,
For this most certain exit to prepare.
When blest in peace, the actions of the just
Smell sweet, and blossom in the silent dust.

The above describes an uncommon diversity of fortune attending

an

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 53

an individual, contains a modest confession, and breathes the proper
moral sentiment of a memento mori. This gentleman was a native of
America, who went out as an adventurer to the East Indies, and
found his speculation, if not to answer his most sanguine wishes, far
exceed the probabilities of advancement in his favour. He obtained
the Presidency of Madras, and appears to have ruled the colony with
most oppressive authority. An anecdote, illustrative of his arbitrary
disposition, is recorded in a way that possesses the authenticity which
gives it irrefragable proof. His groom having rode out a favourite
Jiorse two or three days for the purposes of airing and exercising,
without iirst obtaining leave to authorize his so doing, the governor
.caused him peremptorily to be hanged up, for daring to use such a
supposed discretionary power. For this murder he was ordered to
return to England, and having been tried for the crime, by some
undetected outlet of the Jaw he escaped the punishment of death,
and only suffered a heavy pecuniary fine. Hp was also remarkable
for his auctions. The first of these was about the year 1700. He
had brought such quantities of goods from India, that finding no
one house large enough to stow them in, he had a public sale for the
overplus; and that was the first auction of the kind in England.*
The present church, except the tower, was finished before 1472, the
former building having been destroyed by fire; but the tower, accord-
ing to the date upon it, was completed in the year 1506. In 1647,
during the civil wars, the church was made a prison by Cromwell, in
which several of the committee-men of the Royalists were confined, by
ihe parliament soldiers. There are two chapels attached to this
tvicarage,-— Minera or Mwyn Glawdd, so called from its situation on
Offa's Dyke, and Berse or Bersham. The principal fair here com-
mences on March 23, and continues nine days, and is frequented by
traders from almost all parts of the kingdom. The commodities
brought by the Welsh are chiefly flannel, linen, and linen-woolsey.
Tradesmen from other parts bring Irish linen, YorKshire and woollen
cloths, Manchester goods, and Birmingham manufactures of all
kinds. In the neighbourhood are several iron foundries anil manu-
factories of military instruments.

On leaving Wrexham we proceed in a south-westerly direction,
and at the distance of about one mile pass on the right to Erddig,
the seat of Philip Yorke, Esq. bounded by two little vallies, well
wooded and watered. The approach to Erddig is through a fine
wood, overhanging the banquetting room, which is placed on the
edge of a murmuring brook : the skirts of a large verdant meadow of
peculiar richness and beauty, the walks through the wood,, and round
the banquetting room, are traced out with distinguished taste and
elegance, but infinitely inferior to the works of nature about Ruabon.
Wat's Dyke is the most distinguished remains of antiquity in the

district,

* Gent. Mag. March, 1820.

54 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

district, and runs along one side of the bank between the vales and
the extremity, and impending over them are several intrenchments,
particularly one of the pentagon form, and beyond it a green mount;
these compose what is called the Roman fort, though no coins or
other pieces of antiquity have ever been found here or contiguous.
Some fragments of a wrall cemented with mortar yet remain, and
some traditional accounts, which are the only evidences in support of
the assertion, are very dubious to the antiquary, if not entirely disbe-
lieved.

At the distance of five miles from Wrexham we pass through
RUABON, Rhiwabon, or Rhiw-Vabon, a pleasant village, situate on
a small eminence, and around which are the residences of several
gentlemen of fortune. The church, which is dedicated to Saint
Mary, is a very antique building, with a good organ, given by the
late Sir W. W. Wynn. It has also several monuments, particularly
an ancient table of marble with two recumbent figures, having round
its edge an obsolete Latin inscription for John ap Ellis Eyton and his
wife, Mho died in 1524 and 1526. There are likewise four other
marble monuments for the following persons: — Henry Wynn, of
Wynnstay, Esq. who died in 1718; Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart. 1749;
Lady H. Wynn, the wife of Sir Watkin ; and one to the late possessor
of Wynnstay, which is very handsome. Dr. Powell, the celebrated
Welsh historian and antiquary, who translated into English the
Chronicle of Caradoc of Llancarvan, was instituted to the vicarage
in the year 1571: he died in 1590, and is here buried. In this
parish are considerable collieries. Near this is a great caer, called
the Carthen, i. e. Caer Ddin, situate near the summit of a hill, and
containing about four acres of ground. Within the area are many
vestiges of buildings, the habitations of the old possessors. A fierce
battle was fought near this place, between Owain Cyfeiliog, Prince of
Powys, and the English, attended with victory to the ancient Britons;
which gave rise to a beautiful poem, called Hirlas Owain, or " The
Drinking Horn of Owain," composed by the prince himself. " The
best wood of Bromfield," says Leland, " is in Rhuabon, a big parish,
by part whereof cometh the Dee river."

In this parish is Wynnstay, the magnificent seat of Sir Watkin
Williams Wynn, Bart, but anciently that of Madoc ap Gruffydd
Maelor, founder of Valle Crucis Abbey, near Llangollen. The
former name of this house was Ruabon: it was the property of
Edward Eyton, Esq. whose daughter Mary, the heiress, married
Richard Evans, Esq. son of Thomas Evans, Esq. of Oswestry,
Attorney-General in the Court of the Marches. Their grandson,
Eyton Evans, son of Thomas, son of Richard, altered the name to
Watstay, on account of its situation on Wat's Dyke; and Jane, sole
daughter and heiress of Eyton Evans, married Sir John Wynn, who
again changed the name to Wynnstay, in compliment to his own

familv

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 55

family (Gwydir), he being grandson of Sir John Wynn, of the house
of Gwydir, by his tenth son Henry, Representative for the comity of
Merioneth. The above Sir John Wynn, of Wynnstay left that and
other estates of great value to his kinsman, the first Sir Watkin
Williams Wynn, grandson of Sir William Williams, of Glascoed,
Speaker of the House of Commons in the time of Charles the Second.
Sir William Williams, his father, married the heiress of Plas y Ward
and Garthgynan, grand-daughter to his uncle, William Wynn, of
Garthgynan, fifth son of Sir John Wynn, of Gwydir. Wynnstay
consists of an old mansion deficient in uniformity., having been erected
at different times and in different styles of architecture, pleasantly
situated on a rising ground, in a good park, well wooded, and stocked
with a quantity of red deer. Part of the present structure appears to
have been built in the sixteenth century, by Sir John Wynn, and a
part erected by the late Sir Watkin : the whole has undergone consi-
derable improvement by the present worthy possessor. In the park
is a handsome column 100 feet high, the base of which is 16, and the
top 9 feet, built with free-stone and fluted. Round the top is formed
a gallery with a handsome urn in bronze, after an elegant design, cast
in London. The base of the column has round it wreaths of oak
leaves in the beaks of four eagles, cast in the same metal; on the
south-west side is a door, with a staircase leading to the gallery at
top, which affords an extensive prospect, but by no means beautiful.
On three sides are carved an appropriate inscription, in English,
Welsh, and Latin. Near the old house is a good turnpike road,
about two miles, on a bank called Clawdd On%, or Ofta's Dyke,
thrown up as a boundary between the Saxons and Britons in 761.
It is ten feet high, and broad enough to admit two carriages for a
long space of ground, called Llwybyr-y-Gath, or the Cat's Path.
Near it is a remarkable tumulus and fine view of the river Dee. Sir
Watkin is Lord Lieutenant and Gustos Rotulorum for the Counties
of Denbigh and Merioneth, and Member of Parliament for the former
county; he is also President of the Welsh Charity School in London,
and has acquired a considerable degree of popularity from his coun-
trymen by his liberal patronage of Welsh literature. He likewise
raised a regiment of horse, which volunteered their services with
their gallant commander to quell the rebellion in Ireland, and again
tendered their services during the French war to any part of the
continent. William Williams, of Chwaen Issa, in Anglesea, Esq.
lineal ancestor of Sir Watkin, was the fourteenth in lineal descent
from Cadrod Hardd (or the handsome), a British chieftain, who
resided at Tremadoc, in the parish of Llanfaithley, and was lord of
Talybolion about the year 1100. Sir William Williams, the first
baronet, was a barrister, and Recorder of Chester, which city he
represented in three parliaments, in the two latter of which he was
chosen Speaker, in the 36th of Charles the Second. He was tried

for

56 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

for a libel, in causing to be printed the information of Thomas
Dangerfield, Gent. ; and though he pleaded the law and custom of
parliament in his favour, the court fined him ten thousand pounds
tor licensing the said information to be printed, eight thousand
pounds of which he was obliged to pay. Roger North attributes the
severity of this fine to the resentment of Jefferies, who had been
reprimanded on his knees at the bar of the House of Commons by
Williams when Speaker. After the Revolution this judgment was
declared illegal, and against the freedom of parliament. Sir William
was one of the most eminent lawyers of his time, and appears, by the
debates and state trials, to have been the active and zealous advocate
of the popular party in the reign of Charles the Second, but was after-
wards made (by James the Second) Solicitor-General, and knighted
in 1687, and was in 1688 created a Baronet. Soon after the Revolu-
tion he was appointed one of the king's counsel. The last public act
of his life was the introduction of the act for the preventing charge
and expense in the election of members, commonly called the
" Treating Act," which still continues one of the principal safeguards
of the independence and purity of parliament. — There is an excellent
likeness of Sir William Williams in the town-hall of Chester. The
present baronet married a daughter of the ancient House of Powys ;
and report says " he brings up his children to speak the Welsh
language," an example worthy of imitation.

Llanrwst has its church dedicated to Saint Grwst, but according to
Mr. Pennant to Saint Reisted or Restitutus, who was Bishop of
London about the year 360. Adjoining the church is a chapel, built
in the year 1633 by Sir Richard Wynn, of Gwydir, from a design of
Inigo Jones. Against the wall at the west end of the latter are five
brass plates, chiefly remarkable for the excellence of their execution,
by Silvanus Crew and William Vaughan (who is pronounced to be
the best engraver); each, besides an inscription, contains a portrait of
the person to whose memory it was erected, as under : — Sarah Wynn,
wife of Sir Richard,* who died in 1671; Sir John Wynn, 1626;
Sydney Wynn his wifef, 1632; Owen Wynn, 1660; Mary, his wife,
1653. To this chapel has lately been removed an ancient monument
of Howel Coytmor, which used to lay in the church under the stairs
leading to the gallery. It is an armed recumbent figure, with his
foot resting upon a lion, and this inscription, — " Hie jacet Howel
Coytmor ap Gruffydd Vychan ap Gruffydd, Arm." Near this place
is a large stone coffin, supposed to have been that of Llewelyn ap
lorwerth, who was interred in the abbey of Conway in 1240, but
removed here upon the dissolution of that monastery, about the 26th
of Henry the Eighth. There are no other monuments deserving of
notice, except one, which has a long and curious inscription, contain-
ing

* He attended Charles the First to Spain in 1623, and of this expedition has given an
interesting description in some of his letters to his father, which have been published,
f She was the daughter of Sir William Gerrard, Chancellor of Ireland.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 57

ing a pedigree of the Wynn family from Owain Gwynedd to Sir
Richard Wynn. Between the town arid Gwydir is an elegant bridge
thrown over the Con way, constructed in 1636 by the ingenious Inigo
Jones, who was a native of this place, and it was at that period
considered one of the wonders of Wales.

About four miles to the south of Llanrwst is Gwytherin. The
church is dedicated to Saint Gwytherin ; but according to Ecton's
Thesaurus Gwytherin is dedicated to Saint James, and according to
others to Saint Elerius. It is celebrated for the honour of having
first received the remains of Saint Winifred after her second death ;
for, according to the fabulous legend, her head was miraculously fixed
on by Saint Beuno after it had been cut off by that wicked prince
Caradoc. On the decease of Saint Beuno she was warned by a voice
to call on Saint Deiver at Bodvari; by Saint Deiver she was
directed to go to Saint Saturnus at Henllan ; and by Saint Saturnus
to seek a final retreat with Saint Elerius at Gwytherin ; but even here
her body had no rest, for the monk in a dream was admonished to
carry her remains to Shrewsbury. Previous to her death, it is said,
that she succeeded the abbess Theonia as governess at this place : in
the church is shewn a chest where her relics were kept. Here is
also an ancient gravestone, with a cross and chalice (the last denoting
the priestly office of the deceased), bearing the words " Hie jacet
Lowarch mab Cadell."

At the distance of eight miles from Llanrwst is Capel Voelas. In
this chapelry is a great column, with an inscription, in memory of
Llewelyn ap Seitsyllt, who was slain in 1021. Here is also a vast
mount, the site of a Welsh castle, which was destroyed by Llewelyn
the Great. At Tre'r Beddau, near Pentre Voelas, in making the new
line of road about the year 1820, the workmen discovered a cistvaen
or stone coffin, on the lid of which was the following inscription: —
" Brochmael Leia hie jacet et Uxor ejus Canne." ,

About five miles beyond Capel Voelas we arrive' at Ysbytty leuan
(Hospitium Sancti Johannis). The church is dedicated to Saint
John the Baptist. It is a small village about three miles below
Llyn Conway. This was once a hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem,
and a manor belonging to the knights of that order; and was also
their sanctuary until their abolition, when it became the residence of
thieves and murderers, who committed great cruelties in the county,
but were afterwards extirpated by the bravery and prudence of
Meredydd ap Evan, in the reign of Henry the Seventh, as previously
mentioned. In the church are monuments of Rhys ap Meredith, who
was appointed, by Henry the Seventh, Standard-bearer at the battle
of Bosworth ; likewise another for his wife Lowry; and a third for his
son Robert, Cross-bearer and Chaplain to Cardinal Wolsey. There
is also another to Maurice Gethin ap Robert Gethin, who departed
14th June, 1598, and Ann Gethin, who d-parted May 24th, 1598.

In

58 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

In the parish of Llangernyw (the church of which is dedicated to
Saint Digain, or according to some to Saint Gernyw) is Havodunos, a
very ancient family seat. This house was founded by Bleddyn, son of
Bleddyn Vychan, a descendant of Gwrgi, third son of HeddMolwynog;
from whom many of the Lloyds of North Wales are descended.

In the parish of Abergeley or Abergelau (the church of which is
dedicated to Saint Michael), on one of the lime-stone hills, isCoppa'r
Wylva, a strong British post. — In this parish is Bryn Ffanigle, once
the residence of Marchudd ap Cynan, head of one of the fifteen
tribes, and afterwards of his descendant, Ednyved Vychan, Minister
and General to Llewelyn the Great.

Cerrig y Druidion (the stones of the Druids), or Llanvair Vagdalen
(Saint Mary Magdalene), has its church dedicated to Saint Mary
Magdalene. The large stones from which this place is supposed to
have taken its name have been removed many years, and the descrip-
tion given of them by Mr. Pennant wras taken from the Annotator on
Cumden : the largest, it appears, was a fine specimen of the British
cistvaen, or stone chest (sarcophagus) ; the top stone was about ten
feet long, and the supporters about 7 feet each. This monument was
also distinguished by the name of Carchar Cynrig Rwth, who is
represented as a great tyrant, and was said to have placed those
who offended him in the hollow of these stones. At Giler, in this
parish, was born that upright and able judge Robert Price, Esq. one
of the Barons of the Exchequer, and who strenuously opposed the
grant of the Welsh lordships to the Earl of Portland in the reign of
William the Third.

CHIRK, alias Y Waun, alias Llanvair, or Waun Isav (the church of
which is dedicated to Saint Mary), is situate about six miles east of
Llangollen, on the brow of a hill, and carries on a considerable
trade in coals. The Ellesmere canal passes within half-a-mile of this
village, and is carried over the river and the vale of Ceiriog by a long
aqueduct, somewhat similar to that over the Dee at Pontycysyllte,
but on a narrower scale. Within half-a-mile is Chirk castle, which,
like Powys, still retains a mixture of the castle and mansion. It is
supposed to stand not far from the site of Castle Crogen, which was
the property of the lords of Dinas Bran, and situate on the summit of
a high hill, commanding an extensive view into 17 counties. The
river Ceiriog runs below the castle to the west and south, giving name
to the vale, which was guarded by two mounts, still remaining on
each side of the road through the valley, but rendered more remark-
able as being the place where the famous battle of Crogen was fought
in 1165, when Henry the Second made a most inglorious retreat
from Owain Gwynedd. This place is still called Adwy'r Beddau, or
passage of the graves. The external parts of Chirk castle retain
much of its antique aspect, being a square building with four towers
one at each corner, and a fifth in the front, of nearly 50 feet each,

which

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 59

which give the whole a clumsy and heavy appearance. Within is an
elegant court 165 feet long and 100 broad, with a handsome colon-
nade on each side. The dungeon, down a flight of 42 steps, is said
to have been as deep as the walls are high. The chief apartments
are a saloon 56 feet by 27, and a drawing room within, and gallery
100 feet by 22, in which are many fine paintings of the family; also
of the Duke of Ormond and his son Lord Ossory ; the Countess of
Warwick, daughter of Sir Thomas Myddelton, and Dowager to
Edward Rich, Earl of Warwick, afterwards wife to Mr. Addison, and
the reputed cause of his intemperance.

After the death of Gruffydd ap Madog, Chirk Castle became part
of the possessions of Roger Mortimer, son of Roger, Baron of Wig-
more. The present castle is believed to be the work of the said
Roger Mortimer, who died in the Tower, after an imprisonment of
four years by Edward the First. On the death of Mortimer it
reverted to the crown, and was then granted to Fitz-Alan, Earl of
Arundel. Some assert that it was sold by John, grandson of Roger
of Wigmore, and afterwards passed to Thomas Mowbray, Duke of
Norfolk, Justice of North Wales, Chester, and Flint, in right of his
wife Elizabeth, elder sister to Thomas Earl of Arundel, but was
again resumed by the crown, and granted to William Beauchamp,
Earl of Abergavenny. Henry the Eighth bestowed it on his natural
son, Henry Fitzroy, Duke of Richmond and Somerset. In the
following reign it was granted to Thomas Lord Seymour, brother to
the Protector Somerset, and ultimately granted by Queen Elizabeth
to her favourite, the Earl of Leicester, and on his death became the
property of Lord Fitz-John, of Bletso, whose son, in 1595, sold it to
Sir Thomas Myddelton, Lord May or of London, in a branch of whose
family it still continues. Sir Thomas Hanmer was governor thereof
in the time of Charles the First.

According to a paper, communicated by John Myddelton to the
Society of Antiquarians, the castle of Chirk was begun in 1011, and
finished in 1013. When Sir Thomas Myddelton in the civil wars
withdrew from the parliament cause this castle was besieged, and one
side with three of its towers were thrown down, and again rebuilt in
one year at the expense of £80,000. The entrance is now between
two round towers, by a narrow arch near the centre of the front,
which had formerly a pair of iron gates, wrought in so rich and costly
a style as to be honoured with the appellation of one of the wonders of
the county. On the road side, surrounded by the high lands belong-
ing to Chirk Castle, is Saint Peter's Well, formerly walled, and a
bason erected, into which the water issued forth ; but at present the
well is disused, and the bason in bad repair. This well was in great
repute for its medicinal qualities about the year 1726.

To the south of Chirk is Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochant, the church of
which is dedicated to Saint Dogvan, who lived about the middle of

the

60 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

the fifth century. It is a small village, partly in this county and
partly in Montgomeryshire, situate in a deep hollow, surrounded on
all sides by mountains with summits frequently nearly obscured by
clouds. The celebrated Dr. Morgan, who translated the Bible into
Welsh, was vicar of this place, but was soon afterwards rewarded by
Queen Elizabeth with the bishoprick of Llandaffin 1595, and with
that of Saint Asaph in 1601, where he died on the 10th of September,
1604. The facetious, but learned and excellent preacher, Robert
South, D. D. was the last rector of this parish. On his decease, the
rectorial tithes were appropriated (29th and 30th of Charles the
Second) to the maintenance of the choir and the cathedral church of
Saint Asaph. At the extremity of this vale, about four miles from the
village, is Pistill-Rhaiadr, the most remarkable water-fall in North
Wales. Here the river Rhaiadr falls from an almost perpendicular
crag of upwards of 210 feet high; thence it rages through a natural
arch, between two prominent sides, into a small bason at its bottom,
whence it rolls over small rocks through a woody vale into the
Tanad, a tributary of the Severn. Nothing can be imagined more
dreary than the scenery of the hills and rocks enclosing this fall, and
the masses of stone contiguous to its bason ; but the whole cataract
is destitute of wood, yet so completely composed of simple grandeur,
that trees would seem to injure instead of heighten the effect. Near
the foot of the rock is a small room, built by Dr. Worthington, for
the use of visitors or strangers who bring refreshments with them, and
is of great utility in these dreary regions.

HOLT, the church of which is dedicated to Saint Chad, is 5 miles
north-east of Wrexham, and was once a considerable market town
and a place of some importance, but at present is only an obscure
village on the west bank of the Dee, though according to ancient
custom it is still governed by a mayor and aldermen, two bailiffs, and
a coroner, agreeably to the charter granted by the Earl of Arundel in
1410. The villages of Holt and Farndon (in Cheshire) are divided
only by the Dee, and have a communication by a bridge of ten
arches, built in the year 1345. The church, or more properly the
chapel, is built of red stone, is a very handsome building, and seems
to be of the same antiquity as the bridge. The scenery about this
village is not very pleasant; it consists chiefly of the Dee, which takes
its course through low and uninteresting meadows. Of the castle
little remains, except its site, consisting of a solid rock, and a moat
near the river, which originally formed a small outpost to Deva;
some famous outworks are yet visible about it. On the opposite side
of the river Roman coins have been found ; Mr. Pennant saw some of
Antoninus, Galienus, Constantinus, and Constantius. This is the
situation that Camden calls the ancient Castrum Leonis, a name
probably obtained from the 20th Legion, when stationed near this
place; and (confirmatory of this) it was called by the Welsh Castell

Lleon,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 61

Lleon, as it was garrisoned by a detachment of a legion stationed at
Chester. This castle was defended on three sides by a trench 40 or
50 yards wide, cut out of the solid rock; indeed, from the colour of
the grit used in the building, the whole was probably taken from this
trench to erect the superstructure. The fortress consisted of five
bastions, four of which were round and the remaining one next the
river square, its entrance by & draw-bridge over the trench, on the
west side; but by its present appearance it is impossible to form an
idea of its ancient strength or mode of defence. In the reign of King
Henry the Third and the beginning of Edward the First the castle
and lands about it were the property of Madog ap Gruflfydd, Lord
of Dinas Bran, and upon the death of his two sons, Madog and
Llewelyn, who were wards of John Earl of Warren and his friend
Roger Lord of Wigmore, who, according to a doubtful tradition,
caused them to be drowned under Holt bridge, the two Barons took
possession of their respective lordships. Richard the Second, on his
departure for Ireland, deposited jewels here to the amount of 200,000
marks in money, which on his deposition were surrendered to the
governing power. Henry the Eighth, in 1534, gave this lordship to
his natural son the Duke of Richmond; but Thomas Seymour,
brother to the Protector, had it in the next reign, and formed here a
magazine of stores. The castle was garrisoned for Charles the First
in 1643, but besieged by the parliament in 1645, and with four
others entirely demolished. The lordship now belongs to the crown,
under the direction of the Steward of Bromfield and Yale, an office at
his Majesty's disposal; but a grant of the minerals was made to the
Grosvenor family in the reign of Charles the First, which is far more
valuable, and subject to the annual payment of only 20 shillings.

Three miles north-west of Holt is the village of Gresford, chiefly
noticed for its beautiful church (dedicated to All Saints) and its six
bells, formerly allowed to excel all others. The church stands on a
rising ground at the end of the village, and is built of free-stone, in
length 123 feet and 59 feet broad, with a quadrangular tower 90 feet
high, and on the one side a fine statue of Henry the Seventh. The
east window, which is 21 feet by 14, has been full of beautiful
groups, appearing to have been the history of the several saints to
whom the church is dedicated, with a few figures, the Virgin Mary,
&c in the middle, and under each various sentences in her praise :
her history is also in the last window of the north aisle. Within the
church are two ancient monuments; one appeals to have been erected
to the memory of Ithel ap Ednyved, on whom Prince Bleddyn ap
Cynvyri bestowed the townships of Gresford and Alington ; the other
is a figure completely armed with mail, a surcoat, and round helmet,
his legs are not^crossed, but there is a lion at his feet, and likewise on
his shield, bearing this inscription, — " Hie jacet Madog ap Llewelyn
ap Gruflfydd." He was Lord of Eyton and Ruabon, and was buried

on

62 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

on Saint Matthias Vday, 1331. Here are also some mural monu-
ments of the Trevors of Trevalyn. — Upper Gwersyllt, the seat of
J. C. H. Cawley, Esq. is in this parish : it formerly belonged to
Colonel Robinson, a distinguished Royalist, who on the death of
Charles the First was obliged to leave the country. Chancellor
Jeflferies was sixth son of John Jefferies, of Acton Park, in this neigh-
bourhood. His conduct as a chancellor was able and upright, but as
a politician he was unrestrained by principle, and devoted to the
worst measures of an infatuated court. Since the year 1576 Gresford
has had four episcopal vicars; viz. Bishop Hughes, of Saint Asaph;
Bishop Bellot, of Chester; Bishop Parry, of Saint Asaph; and
Bishop Lloyd, of Bangor. The last-named prelate built a suitable
vicarage-house, which, together with the church, wras greatly im-
proved by the late incumbent. Leland says, " Gresford is as pretty
a church as Wrexham, having a steeple seven-score feet high, besides
the four pinnacled towers."

LLAXGCLLEN

Is a very extensive parish, and beautifully seated on the banks of the
Dee. The beauties of the Vale of Llangollen are celebrated both in
prose and verse ; and the traveller may here have a view7 of the beau-
tiful, the grand, and the sublime. It is watered by " Deva's wizard
stream," and has a canal from Pontycysyllte aqueduct the whole
length of the vale to the foot of Oernant slate quarries; the river Dee
is here crossed by a bridge of four large arches, erected on a rock,
where it would seem impossible to fix a good foundation, and is
ascribed to John Trevor, Bishop of Saint Asaph in the year 1400,
but was repaired in 1656. The Dee rolls through this vale over
cataracts at almost every ten yards, but beautifully diversified with
meads, woodlands, and hills, finely interspersed with houses. This
vale in richness cannot be compared with the Vale of Clwyd; neither
is it equal in picturesque scenery to the Vale of Ffestiniog. The
Eglwyseg rocks, a formal range of lime -stone crags on the north-east
side, greatly disfigure some of its most beautiful scenes ; but the
prospect towards the plain of Salop is uncommonly striking and
beautiful. On the whole it is a desirable situation for those who
wish to retire from the noise and bustle of large towns. The neigh-
bourhood of Llangollen has also for many years been celebrated, on
account of its having been selected as a place of retirement, early in
life, by two distinguished ladies, Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss
Ponsonby, who were induced to fit up, in a truly characteristic style,
an elegant little cottage. The two rooms which are allotted for the
inspection of strangers are very handsomely furnished, and the dining
room is ornamented with numerous drawings of some of the most
favourite scenes in its vicinity, and the window commands a prospect
of the mountains, which are beautiful, in front; and the study,

containing

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 63

containing a good selection of modern books, looks on the well-
arranged plantations adjoining. The whole, though thus veiled in
obscurity, is an enviable retreat, and well worth the attention of
travellers. Leland says, " In the rock side that Castell Dinas Bran
standeth on an eagle breedeth every year, and doth sorely assault
him that destroyeth the nest, going down in one basket and having
another over his head to defend him from the sore stripes of the
eagle. Llangothlan is nine miles above Holt ; and there is a great
stone bridge over the Dee."

About two miles north of Llangollen is Valle Crucis, or Llan
Egwest Abbey, situate in the centre of a small verdant meadow at
the foot of Bron-vawr, a high hill in the township of Maes-yr-Ychen.
It is, perhaps, one of the most beautiful and secluded situations in the
kingdom, surrounded by high mountains and abrupt rocks towering
rudely into the air, with a bottom in many places covered with wood,
besides a fine winding river, verdant meadows, and in front an ancient
and truly-majestic ruin, affording some elegant specimens of gothic
architecture. Of all this ancient pile the church only is in any state
of preservation, and the body of that is nearly"" choked with the ruins.
This circumstance, with the addition of several large trees rising
among the fragments, render it very difficult to take a measurement ;
it appears to have been 180 feet long, the nave 31 broad, and the
side aisle 13. This abbey was founded by Madog ap Gruffydd
Maelor, Lord of Bromfield, and grandson (by the mother's side) to
Owain Gwynedd, Prince of Wales about the year 1200. It was a
house for Cistercians, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, with a
revenue of £188 per annum; and since its dissolution appropriated
to the tithes of Wrexham and Llangollen. The last abbot was John
Hern : two of the abbots, viz. David and John, were highly cele-
brated by the bard Gwttwn Owain for their hospitality and charitable
deeds. Of the magnificence of this ancient monastery no adequate
description can possibly be given by what remains,/ consisting of only
two gables and the south transept. The west front has also a hand-
some round-arched door, with two of its mouldings adorned with a
kind of nail-head quatrefoil, and over it in a round arch are three
lancet windows, with a circular or marigold one above, containing
eight divisions and a mutilated inscription. The west gable has
three long lancet windows from the ground, and over them two
others, with a singular kind of pilaster dropping from them. The
north transept had an east aisle, and at its north end an arch like a
tomb. The south-east pillars of the nave are still standing, but
every thing to the north is destroyed. Tradition says, this monastery
had a number of chapels, governed by their priests, and so distin-
guished that the service of one did not disturb the other. The
cloister on the south side is now converted into a dwelling house,

with

64 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

with two doors and two windows, one of which is remarkable for
its rich tracing. Three rows of groined arches on single round
pillars support the dormitory, now converted into a hay -loft, which
is approached by steps from without. A chimney in one of the bed-
rooms has the relic of a sepulchral monument, with a broken inscrip-
tion. The floors are remarkably thick, and partly supported by rows
of gothic arches. It is now the property of the family of Trevor
Hall.— In a meadow about a quarter of a mile from the abbey may be
seen the pedestal and mutilated parts of the pillar of Eliseg, the
earliest inscribed British one now existing, and erected upwards of a
thousand years ago: it was entire till the rebellion in the time of
Oliver Cromwell, when it was thrown down by some ignorant fana-
tics. It was a sepulchral cross, and consequently a memorial of the
dead. It is said that the stone, when complete, was 12 feet high,
but it is now reduced to 6 feet. It lay neglected until Mr. Lloyd, of
Trevor Hall, in 1799, caused this valuable remain of antiquity to be
raised from obscurity and erected on its pedestal, though only the
upper part of the original shaft. The original inscription was cor-
rectly transcribed by Mr. Edward Lhwyd, the antiquary.

Castell Dinas Bran is situate on a vast conical hill just opposite to
Llangollen, and 1 mile from Valle Crucis : the hill towards the summit
is so very steep on every side as to render the ascent dangerous and
fatiguing, notwithstanding the narrow path which runs under an arch
from its eastern point. The area consists of little more than ruins of
a large building, which appears to have been about 300 feet long and
150 broad, occupying the whole summit of a mountain; and from its
extremely elevated situation must have been a place of great strength.
On the side where it is least steep, it was defended by trenches cut
out of the solid rock, having on the inside a building with two
windows as of a chapel, and some fragments of a tower, which, with a
few scattered walls, constitute the whole of its present remains. Of
the origin of this castle there has been some dispute: however, the
style of its architecture is an indisputable proof of its being founded
by the Britons, although antiquarians and sage tradition attribute it to
Brennus, the Gallic general, who, it is said, came into Britain to
contend with his brother Belinus; but this story is evidently ill-
founded. Notwithstanding the preceding contradictions, we do not
pretend to fix a period when this became a military station; but the
present ruins will justify the assertion of this structure being of the
time of, and probably erected by, Gruffydd ab Madog. In the
reign of Henry the Third (1257) the castle served as an asylum to
the traitor Gruffydd, who, basely taking part with the enemies of his
country, was compelled to secure himself in this aerial fastness. In
1390 this castle was inhabited by Myfanwy Fechan, a most beautiful
and accomplished female, descended from the house of Tudor Trevor.
She was beloved by Howel ap Eynion Llygliw, an illustrious bard,

who

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 65

who addressed her in a charming ode. When or by whom the castle
was demolished is equally abstruse as its origin. Tradition reports
that it was once destroyed by fire as early as the tenth century.
Leland mentions that he saw some considerable ruins of it in his time.
From Castle Dinas Bran the views are extensive and beautiful,
perhaps no where more so, excepting those of Snowdon or Cader
Idris. It is remarkable, considering the perpendicular height of this
hill, which is nearly 600 yards, that the two wells within the castle
walls are never deficient in water. The springs are probably sup-
plied from the adjacent mountains of Gliseg, which are considerably
higher than the castle, and even detached from it by an immense
deep and long vallum. The declivity is much steeper towards Gliseg
rocks than Llangollen; but even this side cannot be approached on
horseback nearer than a quarter of a mile. Within that space the
castle walls were defended by long and deep intrenchments of earth,
while immediately under appears a deep fosse, excavated from the
solid rock (the materials were probably used in erecting the fortifica-
tions), with two entrances by a draw-bridge over the fosse. The two
principal eminences are denominated Craig Arthur (Arthur's Crag),
and Craig y Vorwyn (the Maid's Crag). Bwlch y Rhiw Velen, a
narrow pass between the mountains to Ruthin, is mentioned by
Llywarch Hen as the place where two of his sons perished in battle.

Henllan (the old church), alias Henllan yn Rhuvoniog, has its
church dedicated to Sadwrn. This place is remarkable (as Mr.
Pennant jocularly observes) for the schism between the church and
the steeple, the first having retreated into the bottom, while the last
maintains its station on the top of the hill. Here was interred Sir
Peter Mitton, Knight, descended from Richard Mitton, of Ruddlan,
and Ellen, daughter of John (Aer Hen) Conway, of Bod Ruddan.
Sir Peter was Chief Justice of North Wales, a Master in Chancery,
Prothonotary and Clerk of the Crown : died November 4, 1637.
He had the honour of representing the borough of Caernarvon. Sir
Peter acquired the estate of Llannerch by purchase from Edward
Griffiths, Esq. his mother's eldest brother, which passed with his
daughter to Robert Davies, of Gwysaney, Esq. Not far from hence
are the remains of a seat of Meredydd ap Meirchion, once Lord of
Is Dulas. Part is now standing, particularly the chapel, which
serves for a farm-house ; but some very extensive foundations shew
its former importance.

Llangwm Dinmael (the church in the hollow in the district of
Dinmael) is situate on the banks of the Geirw river. Here are the
ruins of an old building, called Llys Dinmael, i. e. the Palace of
Dinmael, a petty prince, who according to tradition resided at it.
The ruins of the two chapels, called Gwynog and Noethon, were of
late years visible near the mill. The Geirw forms a beautiful cata-
ract near the high road, at a place called Glyn Diffwys.

Llanddoged

66 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Llanddoged has its church dedicated to Saint Doged, who was the
son of Cedig ap Ceredig ap Cunedda, a reputed saint, who flourished
about the middle of the seventh century. Browne Willis says it is de-
dicated to Dogvan ; but this was another British saint, and one of the
sons of Brychan, who lived in the fifth century. The village is plea-
santly situate on the side of a hill, and commands a fine view of the
vale of Conway.

Llanelian has its church dedicated to Saint Elian. Here is a well
dedicated to the Saint. In superstitious times it was much fre-
quented; and its waters are still considered to be beneficial in various
disorders.

Llanddulas (the church on the river Dulas) has its church dedi-
cated to Saint Cybryd, a saint of whom no particulars are known.
Here are some lime-rocks, in one of which is a large cave called
Ceven Ogo, the entrance to which resembles the portal of a cathedral.

Llanfair Talhaiarn has its church dedicated to Saint Talhaiarn,.
but according to some to Saint Mary. Dr. W. O. Pughe asserts
that Talhaiarn, chaplain to Emrys Wledig,* lived at a place in Rhu-
voniog, where a church was afterwards dedicated to his memory.
In this parish, on the banks of the river Elwy, at a place still called
Yr Hen Llys (the old palace), are the ruins of one of the residences
of Hedd Molwynog, who was descended from Rhodri Mawr (Roderig
the Great), King of Wales. It was surrounded by a large moat,
which is still visible. Molwynog was founder of one of the fifteen
tribes of North Wales, and was cotemporary with Owain Gwynedd,
Prince of North Wales. The church is situated in a beautiful, well-
wooded valley, between the rivers Elwy and Aled, and nearly at the
conflux of the two streams. William Wynne, of Melai, in this
parish, Esq. was a great sufferer in the loyal cause : he was killed in
a battle at Wem, in the county of Salop, in 1643, aged 31. He
raised a troop of horse and a regiment of foot at his own expense ;
and a handsome monument, with a Latin inscription, commemorates
his loyalty and good deeds. His son, John Wynne, Esq. married
Dorothy, daughter of Owain Salisbury, of Rug, Esq.: their son,
William, married Margaret, daughter and heiress of Hugh Lloyd,
Esq. of Segroid ; and their son, John, married Sydney, second
daughter of Sir W. Williams, of Llanvorda, Bart. The Rev. Evan
Evans, the Welsh bard, was for some time curate of this parish; and
the parish clerk, at the same time, was also a good poet.

Llansannan has its church dedicated to Saint Sannan. The village
is situated in a well-sheltered valley, near the river Aled. William
Salisbury, the translator of the New Testament into Welsh, was a

native

* This Talhaiarn was a celebrated bard, and a distinguished saint of the congregation
of Catwg, in the close of the fifth and the beginning of the sixth centuries. He composed
a prayer, which has always been the formula used in the Gorsedd M organwg, or Session
of the Bards of Glamorgan. When Prince Emrys Wledig wa» slain Talhaiarn turned

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 67

native of Cae Du, in this parish, and lived some time at Plas-issa
(Llanrwst). Tudur Aled, the Welsh bard, was a native of Garth
Geri yn Chiwbren, in this parish: he flourished in the year 1490,
and was a pupil of David ap Edmond. Saint Sannan is said to be
interred at Gwytherin, near the remains of Saint Winifred.

Llangynhafal has its church dedicated to Saint Cynhaval, who lived
in the middle of the seventh century. This parish is bounded on the
east by a beautiful serrated line of hills, one of which (called Moel
Famma) is remarkable for the volcanic appearances it exhibits, parti-
cularly on the Flintshire side : it is one of the highest, and is crowned
with a tower, to commemorate one of Nelson's victories, and the
Jubilee of our late good and gracious King George the Third.
Some etymologists whimsically derive the name of this parish from
Llan-,can-afal, i. e. the village of the hundred apples ; and in support
of this hypothesis they relate a ridiculous tradition, of a truly legend-
ary kind, viz. that at a period of episcopacy very remote, and less
pure than the present, this valuable benefice was procured by the
present of one hundred apples ; and to render the boon more accept-
able to the Right Rev. Patron, and more efficient to the applicant,
this worthy son of Simon dexterously inclosed a guinea in each
apple. According to Mr. Owen, William Wynn, A. M. an eminent,
poet and divine, of the family of Rhaged in Meirion, was rector of
this church and of Manafon: he flourished from the year 1740 to his
death in 1760.

Llandyrnog.-— The church is dedicated to Saint Dyrnog, a saint
whose history is not known. Michael Roberts, Bishop of Bangor,
who suffered much for his loyalty in the time of Cromwell, died at the
parsonage-house, and was buried on the north side of the chancel, in
the year 1665, aged 80.

Llansilin Cynllaith (the church of Saint Silin). This village is
about 5 miles west of Oswestry, in Shropshire. Glascoed, in this
parish, was the ancient seat of the Kyffins, and the last heiress of that
name, married Sir William Williams, Speaker of the House of Com-
mons, and it is now the property of his descendant, Sir Watkin
Williams Wynn, Bart. Penybont, formerly a seat of the ancient
family of Maurice, and Plas Newydd, once the seat of a younger
branch of the family of Myddelton of Chirk Castle, are both in this
parish. Morris Kyffin, the excellent translator of Bishop Jewell's
Apology into Welsh ; Charles Edwards, the pious author of " Hanes
y Ffydd;" and John Davies, author of "Heraldry Displayed;" were
natives of this parish. The sister of Mr. Davies married Jacob
Reynolds, of Chirk; and their son, John Reynolds, of Oswestry,
published a quarto volume of pedigrees, collected from his uncle's
manuscripts. To the above list may be added the excellent Hugh
Morris (or according to the Welsh orthography Huw Morus), of
Pont y Meibion, in the vale of Ceiriog, who was born in 1622, and

died

68 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

died in 1709, and was buried in this church-yard. This parish is on
the confines of the counties of Denbigh, Montgomery, and Salop ;
and some part of its outline terminates on ten parishes, three in
Shropshire, six in Denbighshire, and one in Montgomeryshire. A
very interesting history of this parish was published in the Cambro-
Briton, vol. 1, 1820, bearing the signature Idris, supposed to have
been written by the Rev. Walter Davies, of Manafon.

The following celebrated Men were Natives or Residents of Den-
bighshire:— Richard Davies, D. D. Bishop of Saint Asaph, 1561,
afterwards of St. David's; Humphrey Lhwyd, the historian, 1568:
Griffith Hiraethog, a celebrated bard, 1530; lolo Goeh, of Coed
Pantwn, a bard, 1400; Edward ap Rhys Maelor, a bard, 1440;
Rev. David Powell, D.D. Vicar of Rhiwabon, 1580; Rev. Gabriel
Goodman, Dean of Westminster, 1601; Right Reverend Godfrey
Goodman, D. D. Bishop of Gloucester, 1655; William Salisbury,
the translator of the New Testament into Welsh, 1560; Charles
Edwards, of Llansilin, author of " Hanes y Ffydd," 1670; Morris
Kyffin, translator of Bishop Jewell's Apology, 1594; Sir Thomas
Myddelton, of Chirk Castle, Mayor of London, 1613; Baron Price,
of Giler; Rev. David Jones, Vicar of Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd, 1600;
Matthew Bromfield, bard, 1500; Richard Cynwal, Capel Garmon,
bard, 1630; David ap Robert, Dyffryn Clwyd, bard, 1530;^Rhys
Goch, Glyn Ceiriog, bard, 1 580 ; John Tudor, alias Sion Tudyr,
Wigwair, Llan Elwy, bard, 1580; Gutto 'r Glynn, bard, 1450;
Simwnt (alias Simon) Fychan, Ty Brith, Ruthin, bard, 1570;
Tudyr Aled, Garth Geri, Chiwbren, Llansannan, bard, 1490;
Thomas Prys, Plas lolyn, bard, 1600; Sir Thomas Trevor, Master
af the Roils, 1696; Hugh Morris, Pont y Meibon, 1709; Edward
Morris, Perth! Llwydion, Cerrig y Druidion, bard, — died in Essex ;
Rev. John Davies, D. D. Rector of Mallwyd, born at Llanverres,
1620; Right Rev. William Morgan, D.D. 'Bishop of St. Asaph,
1604, translator of the Old Testament into Welsh; Right Rev.
Richard Parry, D.D. Bishop of St. Asaph, 1604,— published a folio
edition of the Welsh Bible, 1620; Rev. Richard Lloyd, Rector of
Chirk, 1630; Richard Jones, Denbigh, 1675; Rev. William Wynne,
Rector of Llangynhaval, 1760; Rev. Peter Roberts; Mr. Thomas
Jones, Bardd Cloff, of Llang-ollen, and of Dovey Cottage, Montgo*
meryshire, died 21st February, 1828.

CARDIGANSHIRE.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES,

CARDIGANSHIRE

bounded on the north by the counties of Merioneth and Mont-
gomery, on the east by Radnor and Brecknock, on the south by
Caermarthen and Pembroke. The sea has made great encroach-
ments upon this county even within the memory of man, and tradi-
tion speaks of a well-inhabited country, stretching far into the Irish
Channel, which has been carried off by the sea. " Of an extensive
tract, formerly celebrated for a hundred towns, nothing now remains
but two or three miserable villages, and a good deal of ground in
high estimation for barley. On the shore between Aberystwith and
the river Dyfi, the sea doth frequently, after stormy weather, discover
the trunks of large groves of trees In many places the roots appear
£0 thickly and uniformly planted, in circles and parallel lines, that
the shore resembles much an extensive forest cut down, which, from
the continual flowing of the sea, appear black and hard as ebony." It
is probable that a great extent of country, now covered with water,
has ;been an ancient forest, or at least a well-wooded and fertile
.country. Sea-weed is the manure for the land of this district ; and it
is said that for at least these 70 years, crops of barley have been
annually taken from it, without any cause for complaining of a
diminished produce. The climate is much more mild than the
midland .counties in England ; and in this part of the country snow
.seldom lies long. The county town is

CARDIGAN,

by the Welsh named Aberteifi, and in Latin called Ceretica. It is
pleasantly situated near the mouth of the river Teifi, and protected
from the sea by a long projecting hill: the town may be called large
.and populous, regularly built, and carrying on a considerable trade,
particularly in lead, which is exported in large quantities to Ireland.
The church (dedicated to Saint Mary) is a stately edifice, with an
elegant tower, but situate too near the river : at the end of the
bridge which crosses the river is a chapel, said to be erected when
Giraldus preached the crusade; and here are also the ruins of a
priory of black monks, cell to the abbey of Chertsey, in the county of
Surrey. The town-hall, where the affairs of the county are princi-
pally transacted, makes a grand appearance. At the close of the
last century a new gaol was erected by Mr. Nash, thp architect,
which, from its situation and external appearance, we may suppose to
be a .convenient and well-planned building. Here are considerable
remains of an old castle, built by Gilbert de Clare in the reign of
Henry the Second, on an eminence nesr the Teifi, consisting princi-
pally

70 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

pally of outward walls, from which its seems to have been an
extensive building and of great importance in the time of our Welsh
princes. The castle, like many others, suffered considerably, at
different periods, from the vindictive disposition of our princes, and
the ambition of provincials. In 1222 we find it in the possession of
William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke; but in 1231, Maelgon, the
son of Maelgon ap Rh}7s, having by force entered the town, put all
the inhabitants to the sword, and then laid siege to the castle, with
an intention to destroy it, but the walls appeared so strong and the
gates so well defended that it seemed impracticable to reduce it for
a considerable time, which would have been the case had he not
fortunately been joined by his cousin, Owen Gruflfydd ap Rhys, and
some of Prince Llewelyn's most experienced officers, who directed
him to break down the bridge over the river Teifi, which enabled
him to invest the castle more closely, so as to batter and undermine
the fortifications, which soon gave possession of the whole; however,
Gilbert Marshall won it back from Dafydd ap Llewelyn in 1234,
which is the last transaction recorded of this fortress. The castle
green now belongs to a gentleman, who has erected a house on the
site of the keep, the dungeon now serving as his cellar. One mile
east of Cardigan, at Llan-Goedmore, is an ancient monument,
consisting of a stone half a yard thick, and eight or nine inches in
circumference. It is placed inclining, one side on the ground, and
the other supported by a pillar of about three feet high ; near it is
another of the same kind, but much less ; about six yards from it lies
a stone on the ground, and another beyond that at the same distance.
Meinu Cyvrivol, or the numerary stones, near Neuadd, in the
neighbourhood of Cardigan, seem to be the remains of some barbarous
monument; they are 19 in number, and lie confusedly on the ground,
deriving their names from the vulgar who cannot easily enumerate
them. In this neighbourhood also is Lkch-y-gowres, i. e. the stone
of a gigantic woman, which is exceedingly large, placed on four very
great pillars or supporters, about the height of 5 or 6 feet; two other
stones are near, placed endways under the top stone, but much lower,
so that they bear no part of the weight; three more stones are
adjacent, two of which are large, lying on the ground at each end;
the whole of which are indisputably ancient British monuments.

About 25 miles from Cardigan we come to Llansanfraid, situate
near the sea, chiefly remarkable for its old church (dedicated to Saint
Fraid Leian, or Saint Bridget) and a few remains of old buildings,
where it is supposed once stood the abbey of Llanfraid, mentioned in
a book entitled " De Dotatione Ecclesise S. Davidis," and called
Llan-Saint-Fraid nunnery in Giraldus, but whether either of the
places was situated here is uncertain, though there has evidently
been a great building here.

About 3 miles north-east of Llansanfraid stood an old monastery,

called

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 71

called Llanrhystyd, erected by Cadwaladr, brother to OwenGwynedd,
in the year 1148. This village is composed of miserable cottages,
but the church (dedicated to Saint Rhystyd, who lived in the former
part of the sixth century) stands on an elevation near, and is a neat
building. The parish is delightfully situated on the bay of Cardigan,
and is famous for its barley. The church of Llanrhystyd was
destroyed by the Danes in 987. The castle of Llanrhystyd, called
also Dinerth Castle, was destroyed by Owain Gwynedd and his
brother Cadwaladr, in conjunction with Hywel ap Meredydd and
Rhys ap Madog ap Idnerth : and when Cadel ap Meredydd and Rhys
ap Gruflfydd were ravaging this county in 1150, they lost their
bravest men whilst besieging this castle, which so enraged them, that
when they got possession of it they put the garrison to the. sword.
In 1158 it was fortified by Roger Earl of Clare. In 1199 Maelgon
ap Rhys besieged it, and slew all the garrison left by his brother
Gruflfydd to defend it. In 1204 Maelgon ap Rhys, in dread of
Llewelyn ap lorwerth, razed it, with several others, to prevent it
falling into their hands. — About 7 miles beyond Llan Rhystyd we
arrive at the town of

ABERYSTWITH,

situate on a bold eminence overhanging the sea, at the conflux of the
rivers Ystwith and Rheidol, which here empty themselves into the
Irish Sea, or Saint George's Channel; and from the first of which
rivers the town derives its name, viz. Aber Ystwith, from being
built exactly opposite the Aber, or mouth of the Ystwith, where
it falls into the river Rheidol. It is said the present town of
Aberystwith was anciently called Llanbadarn Caerog, or the fortified
Llanbadarn, and that the small village of Aberystwith stood to the
westward of the castle. This seems to be confirmed by the charter
granted by Edward the First, in which it is several times called
Llanbadarn, and not Aberystwith. The streets are well laid out,
and paved with stones, supplied in great quantities from the shore :
the nouses are chiefly built with the black slate-rock of the country,
which gives the whole rather a gloomy appearance, unless where, as
is now commonly done, they are whitewashed or stuccoed. Notwith-
standing this, it has long been a favourite resort for bathing to the
inhabitants of the neighbouring counties, and indeed it may now be
said of the united kingdom. The beach is sufficiently convenient and
pleasant, with good bathing-machines and pleasure-boats. Public
rooms have lately been erected at a great expense by the inhabitants,
and a public walk or terrace has been formed along the shore : warm
and cold baths have also been erected at the expense of Dr. Rhys
Williams: indeed there seems to be no expense spared to render the
visitant comfortable and happy. A company of comedians attend
every bathing-season. Aberystwith is also a place of considerable

trade,

72 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

trade, having a harbour deep enough at high water to receive the
larger kind of Welsh coasting vessels : by means of which it exports a
great quantity of lead, calamine, and oak bark ; likewise a few manu-
factured goods, such as webs, flannels, and stockings, mostly sent to
Liverpool and Bristol. It also imports, for the use of the country,
cast-iron goods from Coalbrookdale (shipped at Bristol), grain from
Ireland, coal from the southern parts of Wales, and a great quantity
of porter from Bristol, which is consumed here during the bathing-
season, although their own malt-liquor is equal to any in the Princi-
pality. In 1745 ten thousand barrels of herrings were taken here;
and in 1732 there were taken 1)3 bottle-noses, some 15 feet long,
which yielded a great quantity of blubber. During the season, or in
September, October, and November, a great number of herrings are
still taken, but very inconsiderable compared to the quantity above-
mentioned, which then employed annually above 500 persons. Here
is, likewise, a considerable fishery for cod and mackerel, which are
sent as far as Shrewsbury: so that probably the whole of its commerce
employs about 50 vessels, manned with about 300 men. The church
is dedicated to Saint Michael, and was built in 1787 : it stands
within the ancient precincts of the castle, and was erected by sub-
scription, at the head of which appears the Rev. Richard Lloyd for
£100, as a legacy from a deceased Mrs. Jones. It is a plain, una-
dorned structure, containing in length from east to west 60 feet, and
in breadth 26, and is capable of holding from 700 to 800 persons.
It is a perpetual curacy, in the gift of the Bishop of Saint David's.
The gallery erected at the west end of the church was built at the
sole expense of Mrs. Margaret Pryse, of Gogerthan, in the year'
1790, and cost £104. 14s. It bears an inscription commemorative of
Mrs. Pryse's donation,* The custom-house was erected about the
year 1773, near the beach, and the business thereof removed from the
port of Aberdovey. A new custom-house was erected in 1829, on a
more convenient spot in the west part of the town. Many beautiful
corallines have been picked up at various times near the shore. The
town, which is the largest in the county, appears to have been
strongly fortified, and shews at present some fragments of its old
castle, occupying a projection of slate-rock, and protecting the town
on the sea side, while it commands on the other the whole of the
conflux of the Ystwith and Rheidol, with a beautiful view of the vale.
It was built by Gilbert de Strongbow about 1107, in the reign of
Henry the First, but demolished soon after, and agajn rebuilt by
Edward the First in 1277. About 1377 we find it in the possession
of Owen Glyndwr, who was besieged in it by Henry the Fourth,

by

* The chapel of Saint Michael bein£ found .too small for the accommodation of the
inhabitants and the numerous visitors that attend here during the summer months. The
first stone of a new church was laid in June, 1830, near to the above chapel-of-ease ;
and the interesting ceremony was witnessed by a vast concourse of inhabitants pf this
^town and neighbourhood, and visitors from all parts.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 73

by whom the castle was taken ; but it was again taken by Glyndwr,
who placed in it a strong garrison of Welshmen. During the
unhappy contest between Charles the First and his Parliament this
castle was kept for the king, until the garrison were compelled to
surrender to Cromwell, who again garrisoned it for the Parliament.
Since that time it has remained in a state of decay — a picturesque
heap of ruins; the gateway and several towers in the walls alone
marking its former extent. In front of the gateway is a modern
ravelin, thrown up during the siege in 1647 ; the rest of the building,
or rather the remains, was the work of Edward the First: on the
north-west is part of a tower about 40 feet high, and an arched door-
way is still preserved. A round tower is also existing; another
has been repaired, and converted into a kind of observatory, but is
now in a very ruinous situation. Previous to the castle surrendering
to Cromwell, a mint was established within the castle walls, for the
convenience of paying the miners. Several silver pieces coined here,
with the impression of an ostrich feather, the one current for 20s.
others for 10s. and several smaller sums, are now in the possession of
respectable individuals. Contiguous to the ruins of the old fortress,
the late Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley, in Herefordshire, erected a
fantastic house of a castellated form, intended merely as a summer
residence ; it consists of three octagon towers, with a balcony towards
the sea. A public walk was traced with considerable taste and
ingenuity among the fragments of the castle, at the expense of the
late John Probert, Esq. of Copthorn, near Shrewsbury, agent to the
Powis family. In Queen Elizabeth's reign a company of Germans
reaped a large fortune in working the silver mines in the vicinity of
this town. Sir Hugh Myddelton, after them, was equally ^successful,
and accumulated £2000 a-month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr
Eskir, which enabled him (in 1614) to bring the New River to London.
He was succeeded by Mr. Bushell, a servant of SirFrancis Bacon, who
also gained such immense profits that he made King Charles the First
a present of a regiment of horse, and clothed his whole army; he also
furnished a loan of £40,000 to his necessities, which was considered
as a gift; and when that unfortunate prince was pressed, he raised a
regiment among his miners, also at his own charge. On a very high
and steep hill, near the bridge over the Rheidol, is also a large
intrenchment, still in a good state of preservation, and where, Caradoc
informs us, Rhys ap Gruffydd, in the year 1113, encamped his
forces, which, by a manoeuvre of the English, were enticed from the
hill over the bridge to besiege Aberystwith castle, where they were
surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town
attributes this intrenchment to the forces employed by Oliver
Cromwell to besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the
extremity of the town, are two other intrenchments, in bad preserva-
tion,, and destitute of the tumuli or barrows often found contiguous to

Welsh

74 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Welsh intrench men ts; the one is square and the other circular,
having beneath it, on one side, several shelves of earth. The old
church stood to the west of the town.

One mile and a quarter north-east of Aberystwith is Llanbadarn-
fawr, anciently called Mauritanea, and supposed to be the seat of one
of the earliest bishopricks. Here Paternus, in the sixth century,
founded a monarchy, and an episcopal see, afterwards united to
Saint David's. He was an Armorican, and governed the church here
by feeding, and fed it by governing. The church (dedicated to Saint
Padarn) was given, in the year 1111, to Saint Peter's at Gloucester,
and some time after to the abbey of the Vale Royal in Cheshire.
The present structure has traces of great antiquity, being large, and
built in the form of a cross, and is supposed to be one of the oldest in
Wales, with a door of early gothic architecture, and by its style was
probably erected previous to the Itinerary of Giraldus, in whose time
this place was an abbey, under the jurisdiction of a layman, the
enormity of which he laments in the following clerical strain : — " We
rested one night, at Llanbadarn-fawr, where the church, like others
in England and Wales, is preposterously governed by a lay abbot, the
origin of which is thus : the clergy formerly appointed the powerful
men of their neighbourhood to act as stewards, patrons, or guardians
of their churches. In process of time these imprudent stewards usurp-
ed the whole authority, and impiously appropriated to themselves
not only the exterior possession, but even the real use of all the
church lands, leaving the tithes and offerings as the only portion
belonging to the clergy, who were generally some relations or sons of
the abbot. In this situation we found the church of Llanbadarn-fawr,
without a head, having an old man named Eden Oen, son of
Gwaithvaed, long practised in the badness of the times, officiating as
abbot, while his son performed the duties of the altar." This is now
a parish church, but was many years a bishop's see, until the inhabit-
ants killed their bishop ; whence arose the proverb, "Ac ni bu un da,
o honynt byth gwedi ;" that is, there never was one good person of
them since. Its external appearance is large and ancient, erected of
common stone. The interior consists of a nave and chancel, formed
of rough materials, with a few modern monuments, particularly one
for Lewis Morris, well known among his countrymen for a profound
knowledge of British history and antiquities, and as the author of a
valuable work, entitled " Celtic Remains," which has since been
republished, with considerable additions, by that learned and re-
spected Divine, the Rev. Walter Davies, Rector of Manafon, Mont-
gomeryshire. There are also several monuments of ancient families,
whose descendants reside at their mansions in this parish, particularly
the Pryses of Gogerthan. The present proprietor of that estate is
M. P. for the contributory boroughs of Cardigan, &c. Here are
also two ancient stone crosses. Above the church is a small narrow

dingle,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 75

dingle, in a particular spot of which if any one stands he cannot hear
the church bells while ringing, yet if he moves but a little one way or
the other he will hear them distinctly. The Roman road, called
Sarn Helen, passes through a farm in this parish, called Llwyn
Rhingyll. The Danes, in the year 987, with marked animosity,
destroyed part of this church ; it was afterwards, in 1037, utterly
destroyed by Gruffydd ap Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt. — In this parish are
several old British forts, as Pen-y-Dinas, near Aberystwith ; Y-Gaer,
near Cwm-bwa; and Llys Arthur, or Arthur's Palace, in Dyffryn
Castell.

Plas-Grug, or Glas Grig, is a fortified mansion on the banks of
the Rheidol, between Aberystwith and Llanbadarn-fawr, situated on
lands, part of the Nanteos estate, and common report distinguishes it
as one of the residences of Owen Glyndwr. The remains are very
considerable, and pleasantly situated in a bottom, terminating with
the town of Aberystwith. Of this mansion a square embattled tower
appears very perfect, and there is a narrow passage leading into
another quadrangular division, which has still the outward walls in
good preservation. The entrance and hall are immediately opposite
the chimney, with a mutilated floor of rough stones similar to those
in its exterior walls; the former has still the hearth and a rustic
chimney-piece remaining, affording a good specimen of its ancient
magnificence. The extent of the original fabric cannot be minutely
described, but the apartments have been very spacious and numerous,
as the remaining walls will certify, being in many places from 6 to 7
feet high; but the base area within is completely choked with the
fallen fragments of its superstructure. A small part of its ruins is
now used as a hay-loft, but, like the other parts, has neither a hewn
stone or a single letter of inscription. When this old mansion was
erected is no where to be found in history ; yet it appears to have
been known to Gruffydd ap Rhys in 1113, when he encamped here,
previous to his defeat by the Normans before Aberystwith Castle.
That it has been the residence of our princes cannot be denied ;
for it is particularly mentioned by Eineon ap Gvvgan, who flourished
about 1244; when speaking of Llewelyn the Great, he (Eineon ap
Gwgan) expressed himself to this purpose, —

" His spear flashes in the hands accustomed to martial deeds ;

" It kills, and puts his enemies to flight, by the palace of the Rheidol."

It appears afterwards to have been, as above-mentioned, one of the
residences of Owen Glyndwr. It is said that a subterraneous passage
led from this mansion to the old sanctuary of Llanbadarn-fawr, and
another to the castle of Aberystwith, but notwithstanding repeated
trials, the remains of either cannot be discovered. The castle of
Aber-Rheidol was taken by Rhys ap Gruffydd (in 1164) from Roger
Earl of Clare, and demolished. This was but a retaliative piece
of justice; for the Earl, a little time before, had instigated Llywarch,

'**'' servant

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTIC'KS.

servant of Eineon, Rhys's nephew, to murder Eineon in bis bed. —
Castell Strad Pythyll, not far from Aber-Rheidol, was taken in 1116
by Gruffydd ap Rhys. It then belonged to Ralph, steward to
Gilbert Earl of Strigil.

In the parish of Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn is Gwely Taliesin, or
Taliesin's bed. It stood by the high road, about four miles from
Aberystwith; the popular superstition respecting which is, that
should any one sleep in this bed for one night he would the next day
become either a poet or a fool. Tradition informs us that this was
the sepulchre of Taliesin, ben-beirdd Cymru, or chief bard of Wales,
who flourished about the year 540. It seems to have been a sort of
cistvaen, four feet long and three broad, composed of four stones, one
at each end and two side stones, the highest nearly a foot above the
ground; but no part of this monument is now remaining, some
ruthless hand having broken the stones, and converted them after-
wards to gate-posts. Camden (p. 647) says, " I take this, and all
others of this kind, for old heathen monuments, and am far from
believing that ever Taliesin was interred here." But to proceed
from these barbarous monuments (which yet are no more rude than
those of our neighbouring nations before they were conquered by the
Romans) to something later and more civilized. — In this parish is
Castle Walter (Sam Gwallog). Here is a curious echo that
reiterates twice; and the eminent antiquary Edward Lhwyd was
born here. A large rude stone in Penbryn parish, not far from the
church, was standing some years ago, in a small heap of other stones,
close by the place where it now lies on the ground : the stone is as
hard as marble, and has an inscription in large and fair letters, and
deeper inscribed than ordinary, but what they signify does not
appear to have been ascertained. In the same parish of Penbryn was
found, some years since, a British gold coin weighing more than a
guinea. From this and many others found in several places in this
kingdom, it is manifest the Britons had gold and silver coins of their
own before the Roman conquest; unless such as contend for the
contrary can make it appear that these coins were brought in by the
Phoenicians, or some other trading nation, which has not yet been
shown. There are several tumuli in this parish, in which coins and
urns have been discovered. The shore at Traeth Saith, i. e. the
shallow shore, to which it answers, is esteemed the finest on the coast
for sea-bathing. No parish in the principality can boast of a greater
number of fortresses than Penbryn, as every hill and knoll have
been used as places of defence. Two Agrarian fortresses, however,
deserved to be particularly noticed, viz. Castell Nadolig and Pwntan.
Castell Nadolig is a large camp, with three moats and ramparts at
some distance from each other. Being intersected with fences, and
situate on a level hill, it is often passed unnoticed, though adjoining
the road, on the right-hand side, leading from Aberystwith to

Cardigan,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 77'

Cardigan. A farm hard by retains the name ; and close to it is a
barrow. Pwntan stands half-a-mile to the south-west, and seems to
have been a rival camp; it is of equal extent, and similarly fortified
with Castell Nadolig: there is also a tumulus adjoining this fortress.
To the west of the church stands the inscribed rude stone mentioned
above, and the farm on which it is situated is called Dyffryn Bern.
The names of several places in this parish are indicative of the
great slaughter in former times: viz. a plain called Maes Glas, or
Maes Galanas, meaning the field of massacre ; and not far off, Pwll
Glas, the pit of the massacre; and Clos Glas, the slaughtering
inclosure. Mr. Evans supposes some of King Arthur's men to have
been slain here, through the treachery of Medrod or Mordred his
nephew. Longborth is celebrated by Llywarch Hen as being the
place where Geraint ap Erbin, a prince of Devon, was slain : he is
mentioned in the Triads as being one of the three owners of fleets of
the Isle of Britain, the other two being March ap Meirchion and
Gwenwynwyn ap Naf. There is a farm in this parish called Forth
Geraint, supposed to be the place of his interment. According to
the before -mentioned bard, in his elegy on Geraint, we may conclude
the carnage to have been dreadful, — " the warriors standing knee-
deep in blood." There is also a cistvaen at Cwm Barren, in this
parish. The parish lies along the bay of Cardigan, and is very
extensive, but barren and uncultivated.

In this county is situate Ystrad Flur Abbey, or Strata Florida,
near the source of the Teifi, a monastery according to Camden, but
Leland, Farmer, and Dugdale say it was devoted to the Cistercian
monks of the Cluniac order. It is in the farthest recess of a
mountainous semicircle, amid numerous coppices of wood, and
having cultivated land to the steep acclivities, which render the
situation very pleasant and desirable. Of this abbey, called by the
Welsh Mynachlog Ystrad Flur, there are still some remains, although
they are very inconsiderable and scarcely worth notice, having only a
wall on the west end of the church, with a gateway of Saxon archi-
tecture, which is of fine proportion and well preserved. The church
is large, with a long and cross aisle, but the foundation appears to
have been 60 feet longer than it is at present. Near the large
cloister is an infirmary, now in ruins ; also a burying-ground, meanly
walled, having in Leland's time 39 large yew-trees; but the court
before the abbey is spacious and handsome. Tradition says Dafydd
ap Gwylym, the celebrated bard, was buried under one of the yew-
trees. This abbey was originally founded by Rhys ap GrufFydd,
Prince of South Wales in 1164* and burnt down in the time of
Edward the First, about the year 1294, but soon after rebuilt. At
the dissolution of these religious institutions it was valued at £1 18. 1 Is.
per annum. The extent of the old cemetery is said to be 120
acres, and lead coffins are frequently dug up within that space ; but

what

78 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

what tends to confirm this is, that so much of the abbey land pays no
tithe. Within these ancient walls was regularly kept a chronicle of
the principal transactions among our British princes, with all the
records complete from 1156 to 1273. It is likewise celebrated as
the place of interment of many of our Welsh princes and abbots ; but
at present not a single fragment of their tombs remains, nor even a
solitary inscription is any where to be found. Among the illustrious
persons interred here, the monk of Llancarvan gives the following
names:— A. D. 1176, Cadell ap Gruffydd ap Rhys; 1185, Hywelap
leuaf; 1191, Owen ap Rhys; 1202, Rhys ap Gruffydd, Prince of
South Wales, the founder; 1204, Howel ap Rhys, by the side of
Gruffydd; 1209, Maud de Bruce, wife of Gruffydd ap Rhys, buried
in a monk's cowl; 1221, Rhys ap Rhys Fychan; 1239, Maelgon, the
son of Rhys ap Gruffydd; 1235, Cadwallon ap Maelgon, of Maelie-
nydd; 1235, Owen, the son of Gruffydd ap Rhys ; 1238, Llewelyn
ap lorwerth, who, being indisposed, assembled before him, at Ystrad
Flur, all the barons and lords of Wales, to do homage to his son
David, whom he named his successor.

About 12 miles from Aberystwith, on the Llanidloes road, is Pont-
ar-Fynach, or the Devil's bridge. It consists of two arches, one
thrown over the other. The old bridge (which is the lower arch) is
said to have been built about the year 1087, in the reign of William
the Second, by the monks of Strata Florida. Giraldus mentions
passing over this bridge when he accompanied Baldwin, Archbishop
of Canterbury, at the time of the Crusades, in the year 1188: the
upper arch was built perpendicularly over it in the year 1753, at the
expense of the county,, for the greater safety and convenience of
travellers. A few years ago the bridge was embellished with iron
railing, at the expense of the late respected Mr. Johnes, of Havod.
These arches span a chasm in a tremendous rock, which, when
viewed from the dingle where the stream runs, has an appearance
awfully sublime; and the rays of the sun being intercepted by the
elevated situation of the trees, which grow impending over this
impetuous torrent, add greatly to the sublimity of the scene. The
cleft in the rock has been greatly enlarged, if not originally caused,
by the force of the stream, the rapidity of which is increased by its
confinement. The depth of the water on the south-west side is in
some places upwards of 12 feet, and from the highest arch to the
water 99 feet. On the north-east side, close to the bridge, it mea-
sures 1 14 feet; this difference may be ascribed to the declivity under
it, which is very considerable. The river, bursting from its re-
strained course, proceeding through broken rocks, and interrupted
by fragments, becomes a more even and translucid stream for about
4 miles north-east from the bridge till within a few yards of the fall,
where it is confined to narrow limits by the rocks; from whence,
bursting with terrific roar, it is carried about 6 feet over the craggy

ridge,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 79

ridge, and, descending 18 feet, is received into a bason, along which
it flows 24 feet, and then rushes with equal impetuosity to a descent
of 60 feet, Here the fall is again interrupted by another receiver,
which, like the former, appears to have been worn to an amazing
depth. The agitation of the water, and the mist occasioned by the
fall, which for some time is taken for rain, prevents its depth being
sounded ; from this bason it hastens to another descent of nearly 20
feet, but reaching that extent meets with obstructions of massy rocks
and stones of a prodigious size, which it encounters with irresistible
violence, and forces its way about 22 feet to the precipice of the
greatest cataract: the water then uniting passes with an almost
inconceivable force over the brink of the rock, and becomes a large
sheet; in that state it falls upwards of 1 10 feet.

*' Between two meeting hills it bursts away»

" Where rocks and woods o'erhang the turbid stream;

" There gathering triple force, rapid and deep,

'< It boils, and wheels, and foams, and thunders through."— THOMSON.

The river, for near tliree miles from this spot, is enclosed by hills
of prodigious magnitude, some wholly clothed with trees, except an
intervention here and there of frightfully projecting rocks, the bot-
toms of which are very dangerous and difficult of access; but a
situation near the brink of the river once obtained, the spectator is
amply repaid with a scene the most solemn and beautiful. To
describe the various sounds the different breaks in the cataract pro-
duce can but be done by a simile to a variation of the keys in music;
and to depict the scenery with which you are here surrounded, ele-
vated woods, rocks, and the rushing of the river (falling more than
280 feet), can be more justly done by an accurate drawing than by
the most descriptive pen. At the jut of the lowest fall in the rock is
a cave, said to have been inhabited by robbers, two brothers and a
sister, called Plant Mat or Plant Fat/ who used to steal and sell the
cattle of their neighbours, and whose retreat was not discovered for
many years. The entrance being just sufficient to make darkness
visible, and admitting but one at a time, they were able to defend it
against hundreds. At length, however, they were taken, after
having committed a murder, for which they were tried, condemned,
and executed.

Eglvvys Newydd, or New Church, is in the parish of Llanfihangel
y Creuddin, and situate on the river Ystwith. The original church
stood at a place called Llan Tri-Saint, tliree miles nearer the mother
church; but the church was erected on the present spot for the
convenience of the Herbert family, who lived at Hafod, and of the
Cwm Ystwith miners, in the year 1620; this was, however, taken
down, and the present elegant structure erected about the year 1803,
entirely at the expense of Thomas Johnes, Esq. M. P. for the County,
and Lord Lieutenant, who thereby added an additional proof to the
many before given of his taste and unbounded liberality. It is a

peculiarity
A a

80 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

peculiarity that this church points N. E. and S. W. Mr. Cumberland
has so well succeeded in his attempt to describe Hafod, that the
reader is referred to his little treatise for a full account of the
numerous beauties in the grounds there. Dr. Meyrick, in his
History of Cardiganshire, page 371, says, " Since writing the above,
a most dreadful fire (which happened early in the morning of Friday,
the 13th of March, 1807) has destroyed this classical and elegant
mansion, the most valuable part of the library, all the painted glass,
and two of the pictures, Cleopatra by Guercino, and Elijah by
Rembrandt. Independent of the £30,000, for which a part was
insured, Colonel Johnes's loss was estimated at £70,000. But the
pecuniary loss to a man of true taste, whose whole life had been
occupied in forming a most astonishing concentration of literature and
the Fine Arts, must be but trifling when compared with the dreadful
sight of sudden desolation to all his labours. However, happy for
himself and those devoted to literature and taste, his assiduity and
perseverance in making this wonder of Wales, have been only
equalled by his more than human reconciliation to the ci< cumstance,
and his determined resolution to raise another Phoenix." — Mr. Johnes
again rebuilt the mansion ; which, after his death, passed, with the
estate, into the hands of trustees.

Cwm Ystwith lead mines are subterraneous excavations, which lie
on the side of two mountains to the right of the river Ystwith, near
Pentre and Pont-ar Fynach. These mines are the property of the
Nanteos family.

At the distance of 7 miles from Pont-ar Fynach wre pass (on our
right) Ystradmeirig, a small village, formerly defended with a castle,
which was destroyed in 1136 by Owen Gwynedd, but again rebuilt
in 1150 by Rhys, Prince of South Wales. It afterwards suffered
considerably, and was entirely destroyed by Maelgon ap Rhys in
1207, to prevent its falling into the hands of Llewelyn ap lorwerth.
There was here, a short time ago, an excellent Grammar School, and
perhaps one of the best in the Principality, which had been estab-
lished for above a century, and always continued in high repute.
At this seminary most of the gentlemen of the county were educated,
and for the knowledge and profound erudition of several of its
professors it justly gained the appellation of the " Welsh College"
at Ystradmeirig.

In the year 1827 a new college, dedicated to Saint David, and
under the Patronage of the Bishops of St. David's and Llandaflf, was
built at Lampeter, in this county; to assist the building of which his
late Most Gracious Majesty George the Fourth, with his usual
munificence, subscribed the sum of £1000. Its Tutors are selected
from the English Universities, arid possess great classical knowledge ;
and Scholars from this College are entitled to graduate, &c. as from
the other principal Seminaries.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 81

' At the distance of 5 miles from the last-mentioned place, we pass
through Caron, or Trefgaron (the church of which is dedicated to
Saint Caron, who assumed the sovereignty of Britain about the year
300), a poor, ill-built, straggling town, situate in an abrupt hollow,
and watered by an arm of the Teifi, but is plentifully interspersed
with woods, which form a pleasing relief to the surrounding dreari-
ness. The church is a respectable old building, and the town boasts
the dignity of a Mayor, but, owing to improper conduct at an election
in the year 1742, the Corporation was voted by the House of Com-
mons to have forfeited their Charter. The general accommodation in
this secluded place is very indifferent. Llynymaes (the Lake of the
Field), where tradition says the town of Trefgaron formerly stood, is
three miles from this place. In our road is a large mound, encircled
by a moat, but whether it was the site of an ancient citadel or a
sepulchre is uncertain.

Three miles beyond Trefgaron we pass (on the left of our road)
Llanddewi Brefi, situated on the river Teifi. A horn of an ox of a
very extraordinary size was preserved in this church, being at the
root 17 inches in circumference, and as heavy as a stone, seemingly
petrified, and said to have been in the church since the time of Saint
David, who lived in the beginning of the sixth century. This horn
is represented as full of large cells and holes, and was called in
Welsh Matkorn-Ych-Dewi. At this place Thomas Beck, Bishop of
Saint David's, founded a college, which was dedicated to that Saint,
in the year 1187, for a precentor and 12 prebendaries; its value at
the Dissolution was £38. 11s. per annum. A synod was held at this
place in 522, and at a full meeting St. David opposed the opinions
of the Pelagians, at that time reviving in Britain, and that not only
out of Sacred Scripture, but likewise by miracle; for it is reported
that the ground on which he stood preaching mounted up to a hillock
under his feet. St. Dubricius, Archbishop of Caerleon, having
assisted at the synod, resigned his see to St. David, and betook him-
self to Bardsey Island to spend the remainder of his life in devotion.
In the church of Llan-Ddewi-Brefi Humphrey Lhwyd tells us he
found, above the chancel door, an ancient inscription on a tomb-stone
now destroyed. Besides the inscriptions of the Romans, their coins
have sometimes been found here, and they have frequently dug up
bricks and large free-stone neatly wrought ; for which reasons Dr.
Gibson thinks proper to fix here Lovantinum or Levantinum, which
Ptolemy places in the country of the Dimeta3: Mr. Horsley also joins
him in this opinion. Cam Ddwr, in this parish, is the place where a
battle was fought in the year 1073, between Gronw and Llewelyn,
the sons of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, and Rhys ap Owain and Rhydderch
ap Caradog : the chieftains of Powys were victorious, Rhydderch
was slain, and notwithstanding the defeat, Rhys remained the sole

'A a 2

82 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

sovereign of South Wales. Such unnatural contests, it is much to be
lamented, continually stain the British annals. A society is estab-
lished in this parish fe for promoting Christian Knowledge and
Church Union in the Diocese of Saint David."

At the distance of six miles from Llanddewi Brefi and nine from
Trefgaron, we arrive at Llanbedr-Pont-Stephen, a small town in
Camden's time, but, like most others, now considerably improved.
Near this place was a large old seat of Sir Herbert Lloyd, which is
built close to the town, and exhibits a very striking appearance, with
its four great towers, crowned with domes, in the middle of a well-
planted inclosure. The town and its environs may amuse the traveller
with a transient ray of cultivation, when compared with the steep
turf fences, amid bleak and barren mountains, which almost encom-
pass the place, excepting within the distance of a mile each way.
Several experiments have been tried in planting live fences to the
farms of this district, but, we are told, in vain, for the various thorns,
elders, hazel, and birch that were planted, all seem decaying or
decayed. The furze succeeded best, and flourished for some time to
a good height, then fell a sacrifice to the same hard fate. With the
powerful assistance of lime the farmers are enabled to raise a small
produce of oats and rye, but of a very inferior kind; saintfoin and
clover have been raised, with great trouble and expense, to a moderate
degree of perfection, which will suffice to give a provincial some idea
of its wretchedness, and the poor subsistence to be procured. A late
writer says Llanbedr-Pont-Stephen is situated in the beautiful vale of
the Teifi ; and about half-a-mile distant from the town is a bridge
over the Teifi, which is supposed to have been erected by King
Stephen in one of his excursions into Wales. He is also thought
to have encamped on a meadow near the river, still called the King's
Meadow; and in an adjoining field a subterraneous chamber was
discovered, called Seler y Brenhin, i. e. the king's cellar. Several
curious stone steps led down to this royal apartment; but a neigh-
bouring farmer lately demolished it for the sake of the stones with
which it was constructed. This appears to have been a much larger
place formerly than at present ; and the number of its inhabitants
gave them some consequence, as frequent mention is made in the
Welsh Chronicle of the men of Saint Peter having accomplished
some action or other; and this is further confirmed by a piece of
ground on the south-east of the town, called Mynwent Twmas, i. e.
Saint Thomas's Church-yard, in which pieces of lead coffins are
frequently dug up. The tradition is that the ruins of the church
were standing about two hundred years ago, and the street leading to
it is called Saint Thomas's Street. There is a house in the town
called The Priory, in the garden of which are some low ruined walls,
and an old yew-tree; and tradition says that a priory formerly stood
near this spot, but it is not mentioned in any records now extant.

J There

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 83

There are several mineral springs in the neighbourhod, but they are
seldom resorted to. Here are two tumuli or castles,, one of which is
not far from the church, and the other is near the road to Aberyst-
with; the fosses round the latter are almost complete. On a common
are some remains of a Roman road ; and near Olwen is a curious
artificial hill, on which was a Roman camp, and where part of a
Roman military mill was lately discovered. On the summit of the
hill to the eastward of this camp are some druidical remains; on one
side whereof is a large Roman encampment, and on the other side is a
«till larger British or Flemish encampment of an oval form. Casteli
Rhegett is also in this parish; and nearly opposite it, on the other
side of the Teifi, is the Gaer, an entrenched British post. The
Britons seem here to have disputed every inch of ground with the
invaders. The church (dedicated to Saint Peter the Apostle) is very
ancient, and has the remains of a rood-loft within it, and some monu-
ments of the family of Lloyd of Millfield.

Millfield was a very ancient seat of the Lloyds, Baronets. The
Vicar of Llandovery's favourite son having perished in an intrigue
there, the father uttered the well-known curse,—

u The curse of God on Maes y Felin hall,
" And every stone in its detested wall."

The country-people will have it that the family never throve since —
that the place was reduced to a heap of ruins— and when the estate
fell into the hands of the Lloyds of Peterwell, that they soon felt the
•effects of the same malediction, and every family that subsequently
came into possession of these obnoxious lands; in proof whereof they
shew the beautiful house of Peterwell, now a mass of rubbish. In a
charming situation, on the side of a sloping hill to the west of the
church, stood anciently the mansion of the lords of Llanbedr, called
Arglwyddi Llanbedr. Tradition represents them as men of great
opulence, and points out the remains of a causeway that led by a
stone bridge over the river Croyw Ddwr, in a direct line from the
mansion house to the west door of the church. This estate fell
subsequently into the hands of Lord Marchmont's family, and
some elderly persons lately living remembered Lord Marchmont in
possession of part of it. Archbishop Baldwin and Giraldus de
Barri are stated to have successfully promoted the service of the cross
here by their united exhortations.

About 3J miles from Llanbedr is Llanwnen. The church is
dedicated to Saint Gwynin, a saint who lived in the middle of the
sixth century. This place is situated on the river Crannel. Not far
from the church is a moated tumulus, called Casteli Ddu. or the
Black Castle. A few years ago several curious silver coins were dug
up in a field belonging to a farm called Cefn Llew Tref.

In the parish of Llandysilio Gogo, or Gogofau, situate on the bay
of Cardigan, is a very curious inelosure, called Garn Wen, i. e. the

white

84 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

white heap, above a farm of the name of Cilieu. It is nearly circular,
being 68 yards in diameter, and composed of loose stones divided
into three compartments. It is encompassed by a low rampart,
constructed also of stone. A piece of ground about three acres, to
the south-west, seems to have had a mound of earth thrown up round
it, and appears to have been an appendage to Garn Wen. For
whatever purpose it was erected, it must have been a place of great
celebrity and strength, as the stone walls in its vicinity seem all to
have been taken from the agger. Perhaps it was an ancient court of
justice, such as were termed Grithhail by the Scots, and Parle or
Parling Hill by the Irish. The hill to the west of it is called Ceven
y Cwrt, i. e. The Court Hill, to this day. Above Llwyn Dafydd is
a fortress known by the names of Castell Llwyn Dafydd and Castell
Caerwedros. It has two circumvallations, and is about 200 feet in
diameter. The inner part has the appearance of a large tumulus,
the ditches are deep, and the mounds proportionably high. To the
north, adjoining the outer moat, is a small square piece of ground,
fortified with a single work only. It seems too limited to have been a
place of defence, but looks like the barrow of a chieftain strongly
moated round, or the scene of bardic meetings. If a castle, as
commonly called, it must have beeu Castell Mab Wynion, i. e.
the castle of the sons of Wyneaon, being in the Cwmwd of Mab
Wynion, and not of Caerwedros, which borders the river Teifi.
Castell Mab Wynion was taken by Rhys ap Griffith in 1164; and
in an arbitration between the family of Rhys ap Griffith, this castle
was allotted to young Rh)7s. Castell Caerwedros was taken by
Owain Gwynedd and Cadwalader in 1136, which is all the history of
it that now remains.

In the parish of Bangor, or Bann Cor, i.e. the choir on the steep
hill, is an old round tump of earth, about a quarter of a mile distant
from the church, called Castell Pistog, i.e. the Castle of Pistog, who,
as report says, was anciently the proprietor of all the land in this
lordship. There is a hollow on the top of this tump, where, it is said,
Pistog regaled his tenants once a year, under a large woollen canopy
erected for that purpose. The church is dedicated to Saint David.
Blaen Porth has its chapel dedicated to Saint David. Blaen
Porth is derived from Blaen (a source) and Porth (a port). The
term is not very appropriate, as the tide comes no further inland than
Aber Porth. There is a chalybeate spring close to Tyllwyd, but its
efficacy is little known. There is a hilly fortress, called Gaer, but
sometimes called Castell Gwythan, erected by Gilbert Earl ofStrygil,
and the Flemings, at Blaen Porth Gwythan, about 200 yards north
of the church. It was besieged by Gruffydd ap Rhys in the year
1116, and being taken, after many assaults, with the loss of 41 of his
own men, it was burnt to the ground. It must have been a strong
plate both by nature and art from what remains of it. It has but a

single

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

85

single ditch and rampart. At one end of it is a lofty mount, either a
watch tower or tumulus. There is another camp in this parish, not
far from the above, called Gaer Sonydd, but much smaller. There
is also a small but very strong one by the sea-coast, called Tudor's
Castle. Near the church of Bryn Gwynn (dedicatee! to Saint Mary)
is a very strong intrenchment, called Gaer, a denomination given to a
vast number of similar camps or fortresses. The name Bryn Gwynn
implies " the White Mount."

Capel Cynin. — The chapel, which is now in ruins, was dedicated
to Saint Cynin, a saint who lived in the middle of the fifth century.
There are two fairs held annually on an adjoining hill. Cwm Cynin,
or Cynin's Vale, was anciently a place of more grandeur than at
present, and was the seat of the Parry s of Gernos. King Henry the
Seventh, with the army that joined him under Sir Rhys ap Thomas,
encamped for one night on a small eminence opposite Cwm Cynin, in
their march to Bosworth. The country-people relate a story of a
golden goblet left behind him, and claimed afterwards, by the king's
orders, by the Vaughans of Golden Grove, in the county of Caer-
marthen ; where, they say, it is kept to this day.

Maelgon, having entered the country of his nephews in an hostile
manner, encamped at Cil Cennin in 1210, where he was attacked by
Rhys and Owain in the night, at the head of only 300 men, who slew
many in their sleep, and obliged the rest to make their escape by
favour of the darkness of the night ; only Maelgon's guard valiantly
kept their post, and defended their lord till he had time and oppor-
tunity to escape. His nephew, Conan ap Hywel, with his chief
counsellor Gruflfydd ap Cadwgan, were both taken prisoners; and
Einion ap Caradog, with a great number more, were slain on the
spot.

There is an ancient monumental stone in the church-yard of Llan-
wnws (the church dedicated to Saint Gwnnws).

The parish of Hen Fynyw is mostly celebrated as having been the
place in which Saint David, in his early days, was brought up.
The church is dedicated to Saint David.

In the parish of Henllan, which is situate on the banks 'of the
river Teifi, is one of the finest cascades on that river, called Ffrwden
Henllan.

In the parish of Llanarth Henry the Seventh encamped the second
night on his march through this country, at Wern Newydd. The
church of this parish is dedicated to Saint Vylltyg, and stands on the
summit of a high hill on the banks of the river Llethy, which falls
into the sea at Llanina. — Noyaddarth is a large modern house belong-
ing to Colonel Brooke.

The parish church of Llanbadarn Odwyn, dedicated to Saint
Padarn, is situated on a very high, cold, and bleak hill, commanding
a delightful prospect of the fertile vale of Aeron. It consists simply

of

86 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of a nave and chancel, and stands on a cemetery walled in. Its
name imports that it was dedicated to Saint Paternus or Patrick, the
founder of Llanbadarn-Fawr : and its epithet Odwyn (very white)
seems to have been judiciously applied, as it may be seen for some
miles off on every side, conspicuously exhibiting a contrast to the
green turf beneath.

Llanddygwydd has its church dedicated to Saint Tegwedd, a
female saint, who lived about the beginning of the fifth century.
Near Cefnarth bridge, in this parish, is the famous salmon leap (and
not at Cilgerran as mentioned by Camden). The church has lately
been rebuilt in a neat and elegant manner. There were two chapels
belonging to this church : the one at Noyadd, of which some traces
remain in a field called Pare y Capel; and the other at Cefnarth,
close to the bridge, on the site of which a turnpike gate now stands.
East of the church is a small camp called Gaer, and within a quarter
of a mile to the south a barrow; and there are barrows on Pen y
Bryn Bwa. This is a very extensive and well-wooded parish.

In the parsh of Llandyssil were formerly 6 chapels, each of which
stood in a separate hamlet, but they are all now so dilapidated that
scarcely any vestige of them remains. In the church-yard is an old
inscribed stone, and in different parts of the parish are some carneddau
and tumuli. Castell Hywel, or Howel's Castle, is in this parish; but
there is no historical record of it.

In the parish of Llanfair Trelygon, the church (which was dedi-
cated to Saint Mary) is in ruins. On the south side of the church is
a singular moated tumulus, formerly used as a place of defence.

Llanfihangel Llethyr-Troed (the church of which is dedicated to
Saint Michael) is nine miles south-east of Aberystwith. In the
church-yard is the grave of that celebrated bard, the Rev. Evan
Evans (born at Cynhan-dref about the year 1730), who is called (very
justly) by Mr. Yorke " that wayward child of genius." He was
known among his brother poets by the name of Prydydd Hir (or the
long bard). He was undoubtedly a good scholar, an eminent Welsh
poet, and a great compiler and transcriber of Welsh manuscripts ; but
the most imprudent of all men. All the manuscripts that Mr. Evans
possessed at his death, in 1790, became the property of the late
Paul Panton, Esq. of Plas Gwyn, in Anglesea, in consideration of an
annuity of £20, which that gentleman settled upon him. The name
Llethyr-Troed probably means " the foot of a declivity or slope."
There is a spring of chalybeate water in this parish, which was
formerly much resorted to, but its virtue is not now generally
known. There are several carneddau or tumuli to be seen on the
hills, which the superstition of the vulgar has, as usual, attributed to
the agency and work of the devil.

Llan-Gynfelin is situate in the hundred of Genau-'r-Glyn. The
church is dedicated to Saint Cynfelyn, a saint who lived about the

beginning

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 87

beginning of the sixth century. Cynfelyn is also the British name for
Cunobeline. This parish is situate on the river Lery, and extends to
the bay of Cardigan. Caer Wyddno, or Patches, is a patch of foul
ground lying about two leagues from Aberystwith, dry at times and
very dangerous ; from whence there is a narrow ridge of foul ground
to Gwallog, called Sam Gynfelyn, which makes the bay of Aber-
ystwith. A perch or landmark might be erected on Caer Wyddno,
which would be of great service to navigation, and be the means of
preventing numbers of ships being lost. Tradition says that Caer
Wyddno was the city or castle of Gwyddno Garanhir, Prince of
Cantref y Gwaelod, whose extensive domains were overflowed by the
sea about the close of the sixth century. Yet tradition is but a
vague authority, unless attended by some corresponding circum-
stances, and which we fortunately have in this instance. A Welsh
bard records this disastrous event in the following words: —

" Uchenaid Gwyddno Garanhir;

" Pan droes y dou droes ei dir."

The lamentation of Gwyddno the Long-headed,

When his land was overflowed.

Cantref y Gwaelod is supposed to have occupied that portion of
Saint George's Channel which lies between the mainland and a line
drawn from Bardsey Isle to Ramsay, in the county of Pembroke.
Mr. Edward Lhwyd greatly corroborated this tradition; having
observed roots and stumps at a low ebb in the sands between Borth
and Aberdyfi, in the county of Cardigan. And Giraldus says, that
Saint David's head extended farther into the sea, and that trunks of
trees with fresh marks of the axes were apparent.

Llanio is situate in the hundred of Penarth, and is generally consi-
dered as the ancient Loventinum of the Romans, and a considerable
station on the great western road, called Sarn Elen, between Mari-
dunum or Caermarthen and Penallt, near Machynlleth. Several
coins and culinary utensils have been dug up here ; and three Roman
inscribed stones are built up in the walls of two cottages on this spot.
On one of them in the wall by the side of the door is to be read, " Caii
artis manibus primus:" and on a chimney of another cottage may be
read — " Overioni." The porch of this last house, a very large one,
now serving for a seat, but much obliterated, has on it " Cohors
Secundee Augusta fecit quinque passus;" which shews that a cohort
of the second legion of Augustus was stationed here, and built a part
of the walls of the city. Almost the whole of this place is covered
with fragments of the finest brick, which the Romans must have
brought with them. There are also some small remains of pieces of
brick-work and lime mixed with common stone still to be seen ; and
one entire piece, having its surface smooth and polished, was taken
up not long ago, and placed at the bottom of an oven then making at
a neighbouring mill, where it still remains. In one of the grounds of
this farm a large piece of uushapen lead was dug up, which when

melted

88 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

melted weighed 16 pounds. There is a piece of ground to the
south-east of the church, called Cae 'r Castell, or the field of the
castle, in which are still the remains of the foundations of buildings.

Llanwenog has its church dedicated to Saint Gwynog, a saint of
the congregation of Catwg or Cadog (the wise), and who lived in the
middle of the fifth century. The Danes, under their leader Godffryd,
invaded South Wales in 981, desolated the county of Pembroke, and
demolished Saint David's; but having fought the celebrated battle of
Llanwenog, in which the Welsh, probably commanded by Eineon ap
Hywel Dda, were victorious, they were forced to retire out of the
country. There is a fortress in this parish, called Castell Moyddyn.
It is inserted in Mr. Owen's map, but history makes no mention of it;
and being in the Cwmwd of Caerwedros, it is highly probable that
they are the same.

Llan y Gwyryddon has its church dedicated to Saint Ursula and
the Eleven Thousand Virgins. There is in this parish a large
common, containing about 800 acres, uninclosed, called King's Com-
mon : it is situate on the south-west bank of the river Gwyrefawr.
In the church-yard is an ancient monumental stone, which serves as a
gate-post, bearing the figure of a cross, much ornamented, but with-
out any inscription.

Silian (or Sulien) church is dedicated to Saint Sulien, a saint who
lived in the former part of the sixth century. In the church-yard is
an ancient carved stone monument.

Tref liar has its church dedicated to Saint Hilary. This parish
lies in the vale of Aeron. The old church was pulled down in the
month of May, 1806, and a new one of much smaller dimensions
erected in its stead. The castle of Tref liar was begun by Maelgon
ap Rhys, and finished by Maelgon Fychan, his son, in the year 1233.

Tremaen, or Tremain, has its church dedicated to Saint Michael.
It is supposed to take its name from the vast stone called Llech yr
Ast, and the cistvaens near it, which, although in the parish of Llan-
goedmawr, stand within half-a-mile west of this church.

Troed yr Aur has its church dedicated to Saint Michael. Tradi-
tion says that there was formerly a chapel in this parish, called Capel
Twr Gwynn ; but there are now no vestiges of it. The present name
of the parish "Troed yr AUF," signifies the golden foot, from the
supposition that gold was formerly found at the foot of the mountain
on which the church stands; but it was anciently called Llanfihangel
Tref Teyrn.

At Bronginin, in the parish of Llanbadarn-fawr, the celebrated
poet Dafydd ap Gwylim was bom ; he is generally styled the Welsh
Ovid, and flourished from about the year 1330 to 1370. In the
early period of his life he enjoyed the munificent patronage of Ifor
the Generous. What signalized his life the most arose from his
passion for the fair Morfudd, uncler the influence of which he com-
posed

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 89

posed 147 poems, addressed to her. After all, he failed of obtaining
her, though their love was mutual; for her friends sought to render
her happy by a wealthy connexion, rather than listen to the persuasive
eloquence of his muse. She was, therefore, married to Rhys Gwgan,
an officer who served in the English army in the celebrated battle of
Cressy, in the year 1346; but Davydd ap Gwylim seduced Morfudd
to elope with him during the absence of her husband in France, and
in consequence of such a breach of the laws he was put in prison. He
was soon liberated by the inmnence of the principal people of the
counties of Glamorgan and Monmouth; to whom, in return for their
good offices, he composed a most beautiful poem. The works of
Davydd were printed in London in 1789, edited by Owen Jones and
William Owen. The above-named Ifor the Generous was an ancestor
of the Tredegar family.

Ferwick has its church dedicated to St. Pedrog, a saint who lived
about the beginning of the seventh century. In this parish is a farm^
called Nant y Flymon (or Flyman), which takes its name from the
Flemings having landed at a beach near a small brook just by. The
desperate resistance they met with is confirmed by a large heap on
this farm, near the sea, composed of the bones of the invaders, which
frequently now appear as the wind disperses the sand in which they
are buried. This mound of sand is very near Mount Church, and the
tradition is, that the Flemings, having landed on a small beach called
Traeth y Mwnt, were met by the natives, and a bloody battle ensued
on the first Sunday after New Year's Day, which from that circum-
stance was called the Red Sunday, in Welsh Sul Coch. This appella-
tion was given, no doubt, in consequence of blood having been shed
on that day. The neighbourhood was accustomed to meet on that
Sunday till within a few years ago, when wrestling and kicking
football usually took place. It appears to have been an anniversary
commemorating a victory, as the recollection of a defeat would hardly
be revived. The parish skirts the river Teifi to its mouth; this river
is theTuerobis fl. sestium of Ptolemy, where vast quantities of salmon,
turbot, dories, flounders, herrings, cod, whitings, &c. are taken.
A barrow here gives to the tenement whereon it stands the name of
Crtig.

Aber Aeron is pleasantly situated on the bay of Cardigan, at the
entrance of the river Aeron, and has a small port, the bar of which is
dry at low water. Near this place is Sarn Cadwgan.

Plinlimmon, or Puml union, is a dreary mountain among many
others, situate partly in Cardiganshire and partly in Montgomery-
shire, about 15 miles from Aberystwith. The surface of the lower
parts of the mountain is covered with soft mossy turf and low heath,
but often broken with rugged and tremendous bogs, or in some
places entirely overspread with large loose stones, while in others the
protuberances of white rocks give it a singular appearance on

approaching

90

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

approaching its base. The toil in ascending is very considerable, and
generally not advisable, unless the day is clear and free from fogs,
the concomitants of these mountains; otherwise the curious are
involved in impenetrable darkness. On ascending the east side of the
peak the view is remarkably fine, but the ascent very troublesome to
a pyramid of loose stones resembling a earn, with two more on the
summit much larger, supposed to have been used formerly as beacons
to give notice of an enemy approaching, by burning fire on the tops,
which might be seen from more than ten counties. In a bog near the
first earn was found, some years since, the blade of a British spear or
pike, called Ffonwayw; it was two-edged, and about 10 inches long,
for fastening to the end of a pole, such, perhaps, as Owen Glyndwr
used in 1401, when he posted himself on this mountain, with 130
men, to receive succours from his friends and vassals in North and
South Wales. From hence his followers made their plundering
excursions, and were the terror of all that refused to espouse his
cause. Having attained the summit, on a clear day, the views unfold
themselves more wild and extensive than it is possible to describe :
they exhibit mountains, as it were, over each other, and under the
most sublime forms and beautiful hues imaginable, varying and shifting
until they insensibly lose themselves in the horizon, and including
Cader Idris and Snowdon. Such are the grandeur and picturesque
scenery on a clear day, which is rather uncommon, these mountains
being generally attended by a heavy and hazy atmosphere, the
common precursors of rain. After a copious fall of rain this mountain
teems with innumerable cataracts of considerable beauty ; but the
most celebrated characteristic of this mountain is, that it gives rise to
no less than five springs, or rivers, from whence is derived the name
Pum (five) Lumon (springs or fountains). The river Wye issues
from a spacious hollow in this mountain, where the water falls, in a
narrow stream, several hundred yards nearly perpendicular, till,
meeting with various small currents, it soon forms a cataract rolling
with astonishing rapidity over a rocky course. From the same ridge
of mountains, north-east of the top, rise the Severn and the Rheidol:
the latter empties itself into the Irish Channel at Aberystwith; and
the former, after an extent of 200 miles, runs into the sea below
Bristol. The Llyflfnant and Fynach are also considerable streams,
but not so important as the preceding. This and all the adjacent
hills and enclosures are destitute of wood ; neither has the hand of
cultivation yet approached its vicinity, which gives the whole a wild
and solitary gloom. At a hovel near the bottom of the mountain a
guide is sometimes to be had; and the ascent without one is very
precarious and difficult.

The following eminent Men were Natives of Cardiganshire :^-
EdwardLhwyd, antiquary; Rev. Robert Evans, bard; and David ap
Gwylim. the Welsh Ovid.

RADNORSHIRE.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 91

RADNORSHIRE.

(called in the Ancient British language Sir Vaes
Yved) possesses every advantage of water, particularly the rivers
Wye, Tame, Jthon, and Somergil : likewise several copious streams,
asDulas, Clewedog, Marteg, and Cymaron, which run nearly through
the centre of the county, and are much praised by the angler and
epicure for an abundance of salmon, trout, and grayling: together
with several standing lakes, particularly Llyn Gwyn, near Rhayader,
and Glanhilyn, on Radnor Forest, both of which afford plenty of
fish. In the vale of Radnor are numerous lime-kilns ; but coal is
not obtained in this county, though at Llandrindod a brown or
blackish earth, plentifully mixed with a mineral bitumen, the certain
effect of coal, is very conspicuous. In this district are many mineral
springs of great celebrity ; and the woods and hills are no less cele-
brated for game.

RHAYADER,

or Rhaiadr-Gwy, so called from the rumbling noise and impetuosity
of the river rustling amidst the resisting rocks, is situate on the
river Wye, near the cataract, from whence it takes name (Rhaiadr
signifying a cataract). It was formerly the chief village in Maelienydd,
the district being so called from its yellowish mountains; but at
present Rhayader is a considerable market town. It lies in a valley
environed by the neighbouring hills, divided into four streets in the
form of a cross : the county gaol was formerly here, but a new one
has been erected at Presteign, where the Quarter Sessions are now
held. The site of the old gaol is at present a meeting-house, which
shews some massive stone pillars; and several rings were found in
erecting this religious edifice. In the centre of the town stands the
town-hall, a handsome modern square building, erected about the
year 1768. The church is also a modern structure, built in the form
of an oblong square, with a quadrangular stone tower, and turrets:
the internal parts consists of a nave and chancel. In ancient times
Rhayader derived considerable importance from its castle, which
stood on a nook of the river Wye, at the extremity of Maes-bach, a
small common near the town. Of the superstructure nothing re-
mains, but the original foundation may be traced to the south-east,
where it has still a deep trench, cut out of a hard rock leading to the
river : there is another trench more south, forming three sides of a
quadrangle, and about 8 feet deep. There appears to have been
left originally, between the two trenches, a narrow space, by which
the town held communication with the castle, and which is at present
the only entrance. Immediately below the latter is a fosse, about 16

feet

92 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

feet deep and 12 wide, running along the foundation of the old
fortress until it communicates with a steep precipice, the bottom of
which is even with the bed of the river. Adjoining this fosse, at
irregular distances, are several barrows, for purposes unknown ; and
at the distance of two furlongs below the site of the castle there is a
large tumulus, called Tommen Llansaintfraed, supposed to be the
cemetery of Saint Fraid; near which, on the other side, are two
others, but smaller ones. On Cefn Ceido, about half-a-mile from
Rhayader, is a tract of land called Pant yr Eglwys, where formerly
stood a church, and it is said that the borough extended to that place.
To elucidate the form and strength of the primitive fortress of
Rhayader is impossible at this remote period, when not even a stone
remains to assist our conjectures; however, we are enabled to fix its
origin as a military station in the year 1177, and to have been first
built by Rhys ap Gruffydd, Prince of South Wales, as a check to the
depredations and cruelties of his Norman neighbours, who were very
troublesome to the Welsh at that period. Caradoc of Llancarvan, in
his Chronicles of Wales, briefly mentions that it was completed in the
same year; but in 1178 we find the sons of Conan (the latter an ille-
gitimate son of Owen Gwynedd), having joined their forces, marched
to attack this castle, but after resting before it for a considerable
time without success, they raised the siege and returned to North
Wales greatly disappointed. Tn 1192 Maelgon formed a conspiracy
against his father and burnt the castle, which Prince Rhys rebuilt in
1194; but it was soon surrendered to Cadwallon, who, after several
battles, was defeated by Roger Mortimer, and dispossessed of all his
possessions in Maelienydd. From this period hostilities seem to
have ceased, and no mention is made of Rhayader Castle until the
time of Henry the Third, when it was burnt to the ground by Lle-
welyn ap lorwerth, and has not since been rebuilt.

Abbey Cwmhir, the only religious house of this kind in the county,
is situate in a delightful valley 7 miles from Rhaiadr-Gwy, on the
banks of the Clewedog. The hills around appear very grand, form-
ing an amphitheatre round the fertile site whereon this venerable
monastery stood, in a place well calculated to inspire devotion, having
many objects truly beautiful and sublime. The stupendous hill on the
north is 1511 yards high, with a gradual ascent on one side, called
the Park, which was formerly 9 miles in circumference, and stocked
with about 300 deer ; one of the old gates was visible a few years
ago. According to Leland, Abbey Cwmhir was founded by Cad-
wallon ap Madawc, in 1143, for 60 Cistercian monks, but never
finished; the walls remaining are very considerable, and shew an
area of 255 feet long and 73 broad, but what the superstructure might
have been is uncertain. It is uncertain also of what species of archi-
tecture this great monastery was originally composed, having neither
door, window, arch, or column remaining; yet the refectory might

be

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 93

be traced, with a few square apertures in the north side, about two
feet from the ground, but for what purpose they were originally
designed is uncertain, being too low and small for windows, though
possessing every requisite for the admission of air. Amid the fallen
fragments on the north-east side the habitations of the monks are
supposed to have been, and probably the same which Leland calls
the third part, but which was never finished. At this time it is much
to be regretted that we have such imperfect accounts of this place,
which Leland briefly mentions as having been destroyed by Owen
Glyndwr in 1401, in his rebellion against Henry the Fourth. Fol-
lowing this period to the reign of Henry the Eighth, we find Abbey
Cwmhir reported by the Commissioners to be worth, in manors,
lands, &c. £28. 17s. 4d. per annum, which were granted to Henley
and Williams, who are found mentioned in the civil list of that
monarch; but how it descended, or by what means it came to the
family of the late Sir Hans Fowler, Bart, is uncertain. So it conti-
nued till 1771, when the Baronet dying without issue the title
became extinct, and the greater part of the estate which formed
the revenue of this abbey was sold, except what belongs to Thomas
Hodges Fowler, Esq. Report says that some fine specimens of the
architecture of this abbey are still in good preservation in Llanidloes
church, consisting of 6 arches surrounded with small columns, ending
in capitals of palm leaves; and which, according to a date en the
roof, were brought from Abbey Cwmhir in 1542, a date corresponding
with the dissolution of the monasteries in this kingdom. Some
mutilated specimens are likewise to be found about the dwelling
house and out-houses on the farm, particularly in the chapel contigu-
ous, founded by Sir William Fowler in 1680, and endowed with a
small charge on his tenants in Llanbister, whose church is also
reported to have been erected with the stone purloined from the old
abbey, as is Y Vanner. This place was many years the residence of
the Fowlers, who became seated here in the reign of Queen Eliza-
beth, as appears by the style of building. The importance of that
family cannot be better expressed than by introducing the subsequent
adage : —

There's neither park or deer in Radnorshire,

Or a man worth five hundred a year,

Except Sir William Fowler, of Abbey Cwmhir.

Cam, carneddau, or carnedd, are heaps of stones common on the
Radnorshire mountains, and in many other places in Wales. The
most perfect that are to be seen in this county, is one at Camlow, near
Abbey Cwmhir, and another on Gwastedwyn Hill, near Rhaiadr-
Gwy. They consist of stones to the amount of 30 or 40 cart loads,
thrown down promiscuously to form what is termed a Cam. The
origin and use of such memorials have often been discussed, and
generally admitted to have been sepulchral monuments erected by the

Britons

94 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Britons in commemoration of their heroes or chieftains who fell in
battle, and not what some have denominated Carnedd Lladron, or the
Carn-Buttain. For those unaccustomed to see these little memorials
of the dead, a more general description may be useful and satisfactory.
These heaps are found in various situations, and are of different
dimensions ; but the largest does not much exceed 60 feet in diameter,
and about 7 feet deep in the middle, where the earn is always most pro-
tuberant, to conceal the chest or stone coffin, which is usually found in
this part covered with a large stone. It frequently happens that a
circular range of large stones are pitched an end on the outside of the
heaps, while the stones contained within are piled loosely in circles
about the tomb, and the interstices filled up with lesser stones. Some
of the earns are covered with earth, are almost conical, and approach
near the form of a tumulus. In many of these earns the stones bear
marks of ignition, being remarkably red and brittle by the action of
the fire, which appears to have been so vehement in some, that the
stones are in a great measure vitrified. To a perfect earn there is
always a large stone placed endways within 10, 20, 30, 40, or 50
yards of it, and such as are without them at present may be supposed
to have been deprived of them since their first erection, and in
consequence of their having been converted to other purposes.
There is likewise a small distinction to be observed; for instance, the
tumulus and earn appearing together prove the interred to have been
some chieftain, while the sepulchres of the commonalty are always
found on the hills, where there is a small declivity and hollow to be
seen of an oblong form, and the earth heaped like a small hillock;
when these are opened a stratum of ashes, blackish, or red burnt
earth, is discovered; but in digging a little deeper we soon perceive
a difference, and come to the native soil. Mr. Camden (page 588)
says, " On the top of a hill called Gwastedin, near Rhaiadr-Gwy,
there are three large heaps of stones of that kind which are common
on mountains in most, if not in all, the counties in Wales, and are
called in South Wales Karneu and in North Wales Karnedheu;
they consist of any such lesser stones, from a pound weight to a
hundred weight, as the neighbouring places afford, and are confusedly
piled up, without any further trouble than the bringing them to-
gether and throwing them in heaps. On Plinlimmon mountain, and
some other places, there are these Karnedheu so considerably big
that they may be supposed to consist of no less than 100 cart-loads
of stones, but generally they are much less. They are also found in
the North and other parts of England; and are frequent in Scotland
and Ireland, being called there by the same British name Kaim,
whereof I can give no other account to the curious reader, than that
it is a primitive word, and appropriated to signify such heaps of
stones. That most, of these karnedheu (not to say all) were intended
as memorials of the dead I am induced to believe : for that I have

myself

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 95

myself observed, near the summit of one of them, a rude stone
monument (which I shall have occasion hereafter to prove sepulchral),
somewhat of the form of a coffer or chest, and I have received unques-
tionable information of two more such monuments being found of late
years in similar places. But what removes all scruple, and puts this
question beyond farther debate, is, that it is still the custom in
several places to cast heaps of stones on the graves of malefactors and
self-murderers ; and hence, perhaps, it is, since we can assign no
other reason, that the worst of traitors are called Karn-Vradwyr, the
most notorious thieves Karn-Lhadron." That this was also a custom
among the Romans, appears from the epitaph, ascribed to Virgil on
the infamous robber Balista : " but that, nevertheless," continues
Mr. Camden, " it was usual among the Britons, before they were
known to the Romans, seems evident, for that they are common also
in the highlands of Scotland and in Ireland, where their conquests
never reached. Now if it be demanded whether malefactors only
were thus served in ancient times, or whether other persons indiffer-
ently had not such heaps of stones erected to them as sepulchral
monuments, I answer, that before Christianity was introduced men
of the best quality seem to have had such funeral piles, and such I
take to be the largest of them, those especially that have the monu-
ments above-mentioned within them. But since the planting of
Christianity, they became so detestable, and appropriated to male-
factors, that sometimes the most passionate wish that a man could
express to his enemy is, that a Cam be his monument ; and, as we
have already observed, the most profligate and notorious criminals
are distinguished by that word."

Rowland, in his Mono, Antigua Restaurata, p. 48, says — ff There
are also in many places huge coped heaps of stones, as well in this
island as in other countries, to be yet seen, which I take to be the
relics of some ancient modes and ceremonies of that first, but by that
time perverted religion [Druidism] ; and these heaps they generally
call Carnedde — perhaps from Keren-Nedh, a coped heap. It is
believed also that these are the burial places of some eminent com-
manders, who falling and being interred in those places, their
admiring soldiers, as a signal specimen of their love and respect to
their memory, and to make shew of their numbers, carried each one
his stone to lay upon their graves, as they carried earth in their
helmets in other countries to raise up a tumulus, or a lasting monu-
ment and memorial of them. But the latter part of this surmise is
not like to be the true reason of these tumuli ; for there are some of
these heaps so large, that they require a more numerous army than
was in this island to bring every one his stone to raise it up ; and,
besides, there are certain kinds of stones to be found in some of these
Carneddau that have been carried there, as will appear from the
quality of them, from very distant parts of the country, which will

B b seem

96 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

seem rather to infer that they were the effects of some kind of sacri-
fice, where every family, or perhaps every particular person, either
at some peculiar festivals, or occasionally as they passed by, brought
and offered every one his stone ; of which we have some glimmering
in the ancient compound word Coel-Faen, used to this day, by which
is expressed what is good and valuable."

Returning from this digression, on leaving Rhayader we proceed in
an easterly direction, and at the distance of nine miles pass through
Penybont, formerly called Rhyd-y-Clyfon, a small hamlet by the
side of the river Ithon, which takes its course from Llanbadarn-
Vynydd, and passes by this place. There is a spring of sulphureous
water in the village, and another of chalybeate on an adjacent com-
mon ; they are well-known, but as this country abounds with springs
of this nature they are not in use.

Three miles north of Penybont is Llan-Ddewi-Ystrad-Ennau, the
church of which is dedicated to Saint David: it is a small village
in a narrow vale near the river Ithon. The church is a tolerable
structure, consisting of a nave and chancel, and has two small tablets,
in commemoration of Phillips and Burton ; the latter of whom, an
eccentric character, resided in a large old house there, and possessed
a considerable estate in the neighbourhood, which, to the exclusion of
his relatives, he devised to a stranger. In this district are several
vestiges of antiquity, particularly the Gaer (or fortification), which
occupies the summit of a high hill close to the village, and is appa-
rently a camp of great extent ; it is inaccessible on the side towards
the Ithon ; the remainder is defended by two parallel intrenchments,
probably the work of Cadwallon, or of some of the Mortimers, in the
twelfth century.

The Mortimers, who were descended from the niece of Gonora,
wife of Richard the First, Duke of Normandy, and were the first of
the Normans who, having overcome Edric Sylvaticus, or the Wild, a
Saxon chieftain, gained a considerable part of this small territory,
and having continued for a long peviod the leading men of the
county, at length, in the person of Roger Mortimer, Lord of Wig-
more, rose to the distinction of Earl of March, so created by Edward
the Third about 1328. Roger, the first Earl, soon afterwards was
sentenced to death, having been accused of insolence to the King and
treason to the State, of favouring the Scots to the prejudice of
England, of conversing over-familiarly with the King's mother, and
of contriving the death of Edward the Second, father of the King;
Earl Roger had by his wife Jane Jenevil (who brought him large
revenues as well in Ireland as England), a son called Edmund, who
suffered for his father's crimes, and was deprived of his inheritance
and the title of Earl; but his son Roger was received into favour, and
had not only the title of Earl of March restored, but was also created
Knight of the Garter at the first institution of that noble order.

This

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 97

This Roger married Philippa Montague, by whom he had Edmund
Earl of March, who married Philippa, the only daughter of Lionel
Duke of Clarence, the third son of King Edward the Third, whereby
he obtained the earldom of Ulster in Ireland, and the lordship of
Clare. After his decease in Ireland, where he had governed with
great approbation, his son Roger succeeded, being both Earl of
March and Ulster, whom King Richard designated as his successor
to the crown, as being in right of his mother the next heir, but he
died before King Richard, leaving issue Edmund and Anne. King-
Henry the Fourth (who had usurped the government), suspecting
Edmund's interest and title to the crown, exposed him to many
hazards, so that, being taken prisoner by Owen Glyndwr, he died of
grief and discontent, leaving his sister Anne to inherit : she was
married to Richard Plantaganet, Earl of Cambridge, whose posterity
became (in her right) Earls of March, and laid claim to the crown,
which in the end they obtained, and Edward the Fourth's eldest son,
who was Prince of Wales and Duke of Cornwall, had also conferred
on him, as an additional honour, the title of Earl of March.

On a hill opposite the Gaer is Bedd Ygre, or Ygris's grave, a
large mound or tumulus of earth, encompassed by a small moat like
Caersws. Of this description were all the monuments which the
ancient Britons erected in honour of their chiefs or great men. This
mode of interment continued many ages before and after the intro-
duction of Christianity; but when the custom of burying in church-
yards became general, they were condemned, and afterwards chiefly
used for criminals. — Two miles from hence, on a small elevation,
stood Castle Cymaron, of which not a fragment of the superstructure
remains ; the site and moat are still visible The fortress is supposed
to have been erected by the Normans in the eleventh century, but
was soon after destroyed by the Welsh, and again rebuilt by Hugh,
the son of Randolph, Earl of Chester, in 1142, when all Maelienydd
became subject to the Normans. In 1174, Cadwallon ap Madoc
obtained this castle and lordship, for which he did homage to Henry;
but Roger Mortimer, having raised a considerable force in 1194.
entered Maelienydd and dispossessed Cadwallon of all his lands in
this district, and fortified the Castle of Cymaron. In this family
it evidently continued for ages, as we find Roger Mortimer died, in
1360, possessed of the castles of Knuclas, Gwyrthrynion, Cwmdau-
ddwr, Maelienydd, and Pilleth, in the same lordship, which perhaps,
on the demise of Llewelyn, in 1282, Edward the First confirmed as a
legal inheritance. Henry the Eighth, however, being of Welsh
extraction, curtailed the power and ambition for conquest of these
provincial chieftains, and redressed many grievances to which the
Welsh were before subject.

About seven miles southward of Penybont are Llandrindod Wells,

with

Bb2

98 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

with the village of Llandrindod, having its church dedicated to the
Holy Trinity : this place is situate on a common five miles in length
and one broad ; the land adjoining Llandrindod is rural and gradu-
ally ascending, exhibiting a spacious plain, with moderately high and
steep hills, so that the air cannot stagnate, nor the plain be inces-
santly watered with a deluge of rain ; the soil or surface of the earth
about these wells is of a blackish brown, particularly rich, and
plentifully mixed with a mineral ' bitumen, which is generally the
indication of coal, but no attempt has yet been made to obtain that
valuable fossil. There are several tumuli and ancient fortifications in
this parish ; and a lead mine had been worked from the remotest
antiquity down to 1797, but it is now deserted. The foundations of
an ancient chapel, called Llan Faelon, were lately dug up in the
middle of a corn field, but nothing traditionary now remains respect-
ing it. When the Llandrindod waters were first used for their
medicinal virtues is uncertain, but they are generally believed to have
been introduced to public notice about 1670, and then used indis-
criminately ; but since 1750 a great number of people from different
parts of the kingdom have resorted here to use these waters for
various complaints, and with great success. It appears that the
increasing fame of Llandrindod Wells had induced a Mr. Gros-
venor,of Shrewsbury, in 1749, to make some alterations and improve-
ments for the reception of company, who annually made their
pilgrimage here ; for that purpose he took a lease of several houses,
and at a great expense repaired them with additional buildings,
particularly one, which was spacious enough to contain several
hundred visitors, besides affording every accommodation and amuse-
ment that could be wished during a residence at this place. The
wells, three in number, are all within a short distance of each other,
without either participating in the qualities of the other, and are
thus denominated — 1st, the rock water; 2d, saline pump-water ; and
3d, sulphur water. — Llandrindod now ranks high among the places
of fashionable resort.

Returning, at the distance of about three miles, we pass through
the village of Llandegle, or Llan-degla, pleasantly situate on the
banks of the river Cammeron, and remarkable for its antique church
(dedicated to St. Tecla, a female saint), and for its rural situation.
Contiguous to this place is Blan-Edw Well, containing a sulphureous
vitriolic water, which rises in a field near the road : the spring is
conducted into a dilapidated building, which serves also for a bath :
the water is covered with a brown scum, appears rather blackish, and
emits an abominable stench, but has not an unpleasant taste.

At the distance of four miles from Llandegle is the village of Llan-
vihangel-Nant-Melin. It is pleasantly situate on a small stream,
which empties itself into the river Somergil, and the name signifies
" Saint Michael's on the mill brook."

About

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. C;9

About two miles beyond this place is New Radnor, or Maes-yfed-
newydd, situate near the head of the Somergil at a narrow entrance
of a pass, between two pointed hills, called Radnor Forest, and
covered with verdure to the very summit, which is the characteristic
of this district. Camden says, " Near this place is a vast wilderness
dismal to behold, by reason of many crooked ways and high moun-
tains, into which, as a place of safe refuge, that bane of his native
country, King Vortigern (whose very memory the Britons curse),
withdrew himself when he had at last seriously repented of his
abominable wickedness, in calling in the English Saxon, and marry-
ing incestuously his own daughter : but God's vengeance pursuing
him, he was consumed by lightning, together with his city, Kaer-
Gwortigern, which he had built for his refuge." This, however, is
clearly an error, as will appear to the reader by referring to Vorti-
gern's Valley, in the county of Carnarvon.

New Radnor, or Maes-yfed-newydd, was formerly the chief town
in the county, but is at present a most miserable place, consisting of
about one hundred houses, and several of these of very mean appear-
ance, the town haying fallen off very much from its former importance.
Its decline was originally occasioned by the tranquillity of the times
not requiring it to be kept fortified and garrisoned as a frontier town,
its proximity to Presteigne and Kington, and its cold situation,
arising from its contiguity to the neighbouring hills, together with the
scarcity of fuel. From the present appearance of the town, it seems
to have been regularly laid out, having three longitudinal streets
called High Street, Broad Street, and Water Street, which were
intersected by transverse ones ; of these several have at present no
buildings, and some of them are only footpaths. The town hall and
prison are opposite to each other, and are situate in Broad-street.
The church of New Radnor is dedicated to St. Mary, and stands on
an eminence above the town : it is a small edifice, consisting of a nave,
a side aisle on the south, and a chancel ; it has also a tower, which
contains four large bells, a smaller one, and a clock. Whoever care-
fully examines the masonry of this building, will perceive that the
tower and a considerable part of the church were erected on a portion
of wall which was probably part of a former church, and which is
supposed, from the quality of the stones with which it was built, to
have been coeval with the castle. The style of the windows gives
some reason to believe that the latter edifice was erected in the reign
of Edward the Third : the tower, which is at present covered with a
tiled roof, was originally higher, and most probably embattled. In
ancient times New Radnor was evidently of greater importance than
it is at present, being originally enclosed by a square wall, with four
gates, which appear to have been Roman, from the similarity they
bear to the stations of those at Caerleon and Caerwent. It had also
a castle, built on an eminence above the town, and was probably a

fortress

100 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

fortress of considerable strength, having an entire command of the
town, besides defending a narrow pass leading to it between two
hills. Owen Glyndwr, according to Caradoc, defaced the town in
the reign of Henry the Fourth, and burnt the castle ; he afterwards
ordered sixty of the garrison to be immediately beheaded in the yard.
Camden mentions that the castle was in ruins in his time, and much
neglected, except a piece of gate, which was then repaired. There
are some walls still remaining, and they are traditionally reported to
have been of considerable height. The entrenchments about the
castle are nearly entire ; the outer ward, called Baili Glas, or the
green court yard, is still distinct from the inner one or keep, and
retains its original form. The site of the town walls, with the moat,
are very visible.

Near New Radnor, but in an obscure situation, is a cataract, 70
feet in height, called " Water -break-its-Neck," so nominated on
account of its precipitous descent into a vast hollow ; it is situate
about two miles westward of the town, and is surrounded by craggy
declivities of loose fragments of schistus, which are frequently set in
motion by the wind, and roll down in all directions, making the
amazed spectator almost tremble for his safety. This cataract would
appear to much greater advantage if it possessed the concomitants,
trees and shrubs, or was in the vicinity of good plantations : instead
of this, the whole has a barren appearance, for nothing seems to
vegetate in the soil or places adjacent, but everything is as rude and
wild as when by nature formed. There is an entrenched dyke at the
western extremity of the parish of New Radnor, about a mile from the
town, which was continued from one side of the narrow vale to the
other, and tradition still preserves the remembrance of a battle having
been fought in War Close, a field at a short distance from the town. —
At the distance of about six miles from New Radnor is

TRESTEIGN,

or Llan-Andras, once a small village, but by the countenance of
Martin, Bishop of Saint David's, it rose to such a degree of elegance
as to eclipse the borough town of Radnor. It was, in Leland's time,
noted for a good market of corn, where many from the cantref of
Maelienydd resorted to buy and sell. The town is pleasantly situated
near the river Lug, which is celebrated for its pleasant trout and
grayling fishing, and may be properly called the modern capital of
Radnorshire, and where the County Assizes, &c. are kept. The
place likewise exhibits strong traces of great extent and original
grandeur, far superior to its present appearance, although the streets
it now contains are neat and well-formed. — From hence the little
vale inclosing Presteign, and watered by the river Lug, may be seen
to great advantage, as also Stepleton Castle, an ancient gothic man-
sion, rising from a rock in its centre, where (tradition says) a gentle-
man

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 101

man of the name of Wallwyn resided about 1282, who is reported to
have been very active, or the principal concerned, in betraying
Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd at Buallt in that year. The chief
object worthy of attention is the parish church, dedicated to Saint
Andrew, which contains a few tablets of the families of Owen, Price,
and Davies, with an altar-piece of tapestry, representing Christ's
entry into Jerusalem : the walls are decorated with figures of Moses,
Aaron, Time, and Death, which are well executed. Over the great
chancel window, on a stone, is inscribed M.P.L. 1244, which letters
are generally supposed to mean Martin, the Pope's Legate. On the
west of the town is a beautiful little eminence, or site of an ancient
castle, now called Warden Walk, and is a donation given by Lord
Oxford for the use of the inhabitants. Near this town is a place
called " The King's Turning," meaning, as it is generally supposed,
King Charles's turning, there being in one of the old parish registers
the following t\ote:—^In the time of Oliver Cromwell, Nicholas
Taylor, Esq. lived at the Lower fleath, in this parish, and when
King Charles the First fled before Oliver Cromwell, then in the
neighbourhood of Hereford, he dined and slept at the Unicorn Inn,
in Leominster, the first day, and the next two nights he slept at
Mr. Taylor's (a short distance from the King's Turning} ; from
thence he rode over the hills to J\ewtown, and from thence to
Chester" At that time the Reverend John Scull liad the living of
Presteign, but, like many of his unfortunate brethren of that tumult-
uous period, was deprived of it, and an entry in Latin to that effect is
made in another part of the said old register. Presteign is a very
improving town; and New Courts for holding the Assizes, &c. have
recently been erected here.— A small bridge over the Lug, close to
the town, connects the counties of Hereford and Radnor.

KNIGHTON,

orTref-y-Clawdd, (the church of which is dedicated to Saint JEdward,
and was erected in the year 1752,) is so called from its situation near
Oflfa's Dyke, which runs below it, and extends from the mouth of the
Dee to that of the Wye. Camden and other authors have confounded
this celebrated boundary with Watt's Dyke, in North Wales, which
is nearly equal in depth but not in length. Knighton is situate at
the head of a deep vale, and is the handsomest town in the county,
descending in several steep streets, which present very picturesque
objects to the adjacent country. This romantic vale is also surrounded
by hills, which are well clothed with wood and verdure; and it is
considerably enriched by the winding course of the river Teme.
There was formerly a castle here, which is entirely demolished: here
are also two barrows.

A little to the north of Knighton is Caer Caradpc, a hill much
honoured in former times, as the place which Caractacus fortified

(A.D. 53)

102 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

(A. D. 53) with a rampart of stones, and where he held out against
the Romans under Ostorius (whose camp is visible opposite) till the
rude fortification was broken through, which compelled the Britons
to retreat, and their leader, betrayed by Queen Cartismandua, was
carried in chains to Rome.

In the northern part of the parish of Pillith, or Pwll Llaith, i.e.
the moist pit, which is an elevated common, there are several
tenements, called Hendrecarreg, i. e. ( ' the old town of stone," where
a town of that name is said to have been anciently, and those within
the limits of that borough now pay less chief rent. On the north
side of the church (which is dedicated to St. Mary), in the church-
yard, is a well, which was formerly esteemed beneficial in diseases of
the eyes ; the well is walled round, but some of the stones are now
fallen into it. Upon a hill in this parish, called Bryn Glas, about a
mile north of the church, a battle was fought on the 2d of June, 1402,
between Owain Glyndwr and Sir Edward Mortimer, in which the
latter was defeated and taken prisoner, with the loss of 1 100 men
slain. Shakspeare makes particular mention of it, from the circum-
stances of some indecencies committed by the Welsh women on the
dead bodies of the men of Herefordshire, who were the friends and
vassals of the powerful house of Mortimer, whose castle was situate at
Wigmore, about seven miles distant.

In the parish of Llananno, about nine miles north-west of Knighton,
is Castle Timboth, or Daybod, situate on a steep hill called Crogen,
above the river Ithon. The situation is extremely wild and pleasant,
but the scite is naturally strong, and almost inaccessible on all sides
but one, which appears to have been well defended by intrenchments
still visible. Of the old structure nothing remains except a confused
heap of thick walls; but the scite and a portion of the keep may still
be traced, having a deep moat round the whole. Nothing is known
of its history, except that it was destroyed by Llewelyn ap Gruffydd,
Prince of Wales, in the year 1260. Here is a spring of mineral water
called New Well, which is said to be very efficacious in scorbutic and
scrofulous complaints ; there are also the remains of an old castle,
called Ty-yn-y-bwlch, or (f the house in the defile," situate on an
almost inaccessible rock in a narrow passage, overhanging the river
Ithon, and was probably the residence of the Reguli of Maelienydd.

Cefn Llys Castle) is situate in the borough of that name, and stands
on the bank of the river Ithon, which almost surrounds it, except on
one side. The scite of this castle appears strongly fortified by nature,
and so admirably situated for a place of defence, as to be almost
invulnerable before the invention of artillery, except on one side,
where one hundred men might defend it against a thousand. It is
called Castle Glynn Ithon, and is supposed to have been built by
some of the Welsh princes to prevent the incursions of the Normans.
About the year 1262 a detachment of Llewelyn's men took this for-
tress

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 103

tress by surprise, and made the governor prisoner, but most of the
garrison were put to the sword. The same year Sir Roger Mortimer
retook it, when he repaired it, and appointed a governor for its
defence. Camden describes it as in ruins in his time. — The church
of this place is dedicated to St. Michael.

Passing through the villages of Norton (the church of which is
dedicated to Saint Andrew) and Kinnerton (where was formerly a
castle, and the church of which, dedicated to Saint Edward, is a
modern structure, erected in 1752), we arrive at Old Radnor, or
Maesyfed-Hen, frequently called Pen-y-craig, i. e. " the summit of a
rock." It is situate on the banks of the river Somergil. Its castle
was entirely destroyed by Rhys ap Gruffydd in the reign of King
John. This was probably the city Magos, called by Antoninus
Magnos, and where the Notitia Provinciarum informs us the com-
mander of the Pacensian regiment lay in garrison, under a Lieutenant
of Britain, in the reign of Theodosius the younger. Most of the
writers of former periods called the inhabitants of this county Maga-
seta. Charles the First, after the battle of Naseby, and during his
flight from the parliamentary forces, slept on the 6th of August, 1645,
at the Priory house at Brecon, and dined with Sir Henry Williams,
of Gwernevet, whence he continued his route to Old Radnor, where
he supped on the 7th, and was perhaps the only royal guest that ever
sought accommodation in this ancient city. This, like many other
Welsh towns, must be considered and respected more for what it has
been than anything it can at present boast of,- for at this time the
houses are few and mean ; indeed a more decayed place cannot well
be found. The church is a venerable old edifice, with a large tower
and six excellent bells, and consists of a nave and chancel, within
which are several handsome monuments to the family of Lewis of
flarpston, whose feeat lies contiguous, and also a curious skreen richly
carved in wood, which, contrary to the usual mode of architecture,
extends across the nave and two side aisles.— Lime is burnt in great
quantities at Old Radnor to supply the county.

On leaving Old Radnor, proceeding in a southerly direction, at the
distance of about seven miles we arrive at Pain's Castle, situate in a
small hamlet of that name, containing a few good houses, and where
several fairs are held. It is believed to have received its name from
Paganus or Pain, a Norman, who built the castle, which was besieged
and taken by Prince Rhys in the year 1196, and kept until William
4e Bruce humbly desired of him peace and the castle, which the
Prince granted. In 1 198 Gwenwynwyn besieged the castle, and after
laying before it for three weeks was obliged to raise the siege. In
1215, according to Caradoc, Giles de Bruce, Bishop of Hereford,
bestowed the castle on Walter Fychan, the son of Eineon Clyd ; and
this is the last account we have of it in history. The remains are very
inconsiderable, being little more than the scite and a few loose

fragments

104 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

fragments of its outward walls, which shew that there was formerly a
building on this spot, but as to its form and extent we have neither
history nor tradition to assist our conjectures on the subject.

About four miles to the north-west of Pain's Castle is Collwen
Castle, or Maud's Castle ; it is situate in Colwent, and stands on the
Forest Farm, south-east of Aberedw, in the parish of Llansaintfred.
This castle was anciently very famous, and belonged to Robert de
Todney, a man of considerable rank in the time of Edward the
Second. It is supposed to have taken its name from Maud de Saint
Valery, the wife of William Breose, who rebelled against King John ;
it was afterwards destroyed by the Welsh, but rebuilt in 1231 by
Henry the Third, on his return to England, after a fruitless attempt
against the Welsh. Of the original fortress nothing now remains,
except a grass-plot, which was the scite of the old castle.

In Aber-Edw parish there are the remains of an old castle, about
400 yards from the church (which is dedicated to Saint Gwydd), and
near the confines and junction of the rivers Edw and Wye ; and at a
little distance is a high mount hanging over the river Edw, and com-
manding a romantic view of the inaccessible rocks on the other side,
which are greatly admired. Out of this castle Llewelyn ap Gruffydd,
the last Prince of Wales, retired in order to meet in conference with
the Lords of Llandovery, and, to prevent being pursued, he caused
his horse to be shod the wrong way ; but the blacksmith afterwards
betrayed him, and he was killed in a field about two miles from
Buallt and six from his own castle, which gave rise to the epithet,
Bradwr Aber-Edw, i. e. " Aber-Edw Traitors." About a quarter of
a mile from the castle is a cave formed in the rock, about sixteen feet
square, having a very small entrance, and called Llewelyn's Cave,
whither, it is said, he used to retire for security in cases of imminent
danger. The river Edw is small, but is famous for its trout, which
are very abundant and good.

In the parish of Bugaildy or Bugail-dy, i. e. ff the Shepherd's Cot"
(the church of which is dedicated to Saint Michael), is an ancient
British fortification, with great remains of building, which, according
to immemorial tradition, was the residence of Uthyr, commonly sur-
named Pendragon, and at the bottom of the hill is a field called
the Bloody Field, where it is said a battle was fought.

The church of Cwm-y-dau-ddwr, dedicated to Saint Fraed, is a
neat structure, having been rebuilt in 1778; the stone wall is of
excellent masonry. — At Nant-wyllt, four miles S. W. by W. from the
mother church, a chapel was erected in 1772, which is a handsome
but small edifice. — At Nant-Madoc, between the church of Cwm-y-
dau-ddwr and chapel of Nant-wyllt, the ruins of Chapel Madoc are to
be seen, near to which there was a monastery. An adjoining farm,
called Coed-y-Mynach, /. e. " the Monk's Wood," supplied the
monastery with wood for culinary and other purposes. The road may

be

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 105

be traced from hence over the mountains to the Abbey of Strata
Florida, in the county of Cardigan, whither the monks, on certain
occasions, went in procession.

In the parish of Glas Cwm are the Blaen Edw wells: they are
famous for the cure of cutaneous diseases. In the month of June,
1806, a boy discovered a great quantity of silver coins of King
William in a mole-hill on the mountains. There is a fine cascade
between the parishes of Llan-dcilo-Graban and Llan-Stephan, formed
by the brook Bach-wy, which is the boundary between them.

Llandeilo-Graban is situate in a wild romantic spot, almost sur-
rounded with rocks of a great height, and difficult of access. The
pool below, called Craig-pwll du, or " the Rock of the Black Pool,"
is of great depth, and one of the rocks is called Domini Castra.

The parish of Llandeilo Tal-y-bont (the church of which is dedi-
cated to Saint Teilo), abounds with coal, and is situate upon the river
Lloughor. The ancient monastery of Court-y-Carne, now in ruins,
to which belonged a manor and a mill, was appendant to the Abbey
of Cadoxton.

Boughrood (the church of which is dedicated to Saint Cynog) is
pleasantly situated on the banks of the river Wye, and makes a beau-
tiful bend in the form of a horse -shoe. Below the ford here, and from
which it probably derives its name, part of the wall of the old castle
of Boughrood and the moat still remain, and the site commands a
noble view of the river and adjacent country.

Clyro has its church dedicated to St. Michael, and is situated on
the banks of the river Wye. The castle that once stood here is
demolished. Here are some monastic lands, called Tir y Mynach ;
and a spring of mineral water, which is said to be efficacious in
complaints of the eyes. This parish is separated from the county of
Hereford by a small brook, and from the county of Brecknock by the
river Wye.

Diserth is situated on the banks of the river Ithon ; here are some
ancient fortifications which are supposed to be British ; and a place
called Maes Madoc is celebrated for a battle fought there between
Prince Llewelyn and the English, a short time before that Prince's
death. The church is dedicated to St. Gwydd, a saint of whom
little is known.

Llanbadarn Fynydd. In this parish is a sulphureous spring called
Ffynnon Ddewi, or " Saint David's Well," which is said to be useful
in scorbutic complaints, but it is not of a very strong quality. This
village is situated on the banks of the river Teme, and the church is
dedicated to St. Padarn.

In the parish of Llanbister are two or three black sulphureous
mineral springs, and one whose waters are of a reddish copper
colour : in this last- mentioned spring copper, in an hour or two, will
turn white, and silver will become yellow. The black springs are

resorted

106 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

resorted to in the cure of cutaneous diseases ; one red and another
black spring rise in a meadow about ten yards apart. The village is
situated on the banks of the Teme. There is a noted spring and
waterfall near the church, called Pistyll Gynllo ; the church also is
dedicated to St. Cynllo, who lived about the middle of the fifth
century.

Llan Elwedd. The church is situate on an eminence, about two
miles from Buallt, and at a little distance from the river Wye ; near
the road leading from Buallt to Rhaiader are the ruins of a castle,with
a moat round it, which is said to have belonged to Prince Llewelyn.

Llanfihangel-rh} d-Ithon. " This parish (says an eminent divine)
is usually spelt Llanfihan<*el-rhvd-lthon, i. e. ( St. Michael upon the
fords of the river Ithon,' according to some opinions; but I do not see
the propriety of this application, as the distance from the church to
the river is three miles. According to other authories, which in my
opinion are more probable, it is Llanfihangel Rhiw'r Teithon, there
being at this day a road above the church, passing over the forests to
Radnor, called Rhiw'r Teithon. Rhiw is applicable either to the
acclivity or declivity of a road, and Teithon is travelling or joumies,
it being in former times the thoroughfare from hence and the adjoin-
ing parishes, over the forest of Radnor, to Radnor. This is the
tradition handed down from father to son from time immemorial, in
this parish, and is in my opinion the proper derivation."

Nant-Mel, the church of which is dedicated to St. Cynllo, is situate
near the river Dulas. Some persons derive the name from a small
brook which rises in that parish, called Nant y Mel, i. e. " the Honey
Brook." There is a fine piece of water on the Rhusfa, called Llynn-
gwynn, a mile in circumference, which abounds with carp and eels. —
On Gwastadedd hill is a vast pile of stones, the remains, perhaps, of
some tumulus or sepulchral monument, but so decayed and disfigured
by time that it is hardly possible to guess at its original use or inten-
tion, except from the analogy which it seems to bear with those that
are more perfect.

BRECKNOCKSHIRE.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 107

BRECKNOCKSHIRE :

JIN British Brycheinog, so called, as the inhabitants believe, from
Prince Brechanius, who is said to have had a numerous and holy
offspring, to wit, 24 sons and 24 daughters, all Saints. Giraldus
Cambrensis, who was archdeacon of Brecon upwards of 500 years ago,
saith, " It is a land abounding in corn, pastures, wood, wild deer, and
fish of a superior sort, particularly trout in the Usk, called Umbrae :
it is enclosed on all sides except the north by high hills, on the west
Cantre Bychan, and on the south Cadair Arthur, which has a noted
spring on the summit. The most considerable rivers are the Wysg,
Honddu, Yrvon, and Wye ; these and all its little rivulets are noted
for fine trout and the best of salmon."

BRECON, OR BRECKNOCK,

In Welsh Aber-Honddu, called so from being situate on the conflux
of the rivers Usk and Honddu, over which (within the town) are
three bridges, is situate in a very romantic place, abounding with
broken grounds, torrents, dismantled towers, and ruins of various
kinds. It was formerly well walled, with four gates, namely, High-
gate, West-gate (by the Black-friars), Water-gate, and East-gate;
besides these, there was one without, in the suburbs, called Porthene
St. Mariae ; at present it consists of three handsome streets, in the
most spacious of which stand the county hall and market place. Its
compact form and neatness give it an advantage over most towns in
Wales, whilst its interior beauty renders it not less striking. The
place is in general well built, and some of its modern houses may be
called magnificent. — Its bridges and churches add much to the gene-
ral appearance, whilst few towns in the principality can perhaps boast,
of such public walks as those of the Wysg, and within the groves of
its old priory. It also boasts of some noble ruins of a castle, which
stands on a hill to the east, commanding the whole town. Leland
says, part of the castle was built by Lady Malabrune ; but it is more
probable that Barnard de Newmarch, a Norman nobleman, who won
the Lordship about 1090 or 1094, built it himself, to secure his new
conquest. The castle is divided from the town by the river Honddu,
over which there is a lofty bridge ; there are still some remains of the
Keep and Ely Tower, so named from Dr. Morton, Bishop of Ely,
who was confined here by order of Richard the Third, and committed
to the custody of Henry Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, who some
time before procured the Crown for Richard ; but the Duke being
disappointed in his expectations, did, in concert with the Bishop his
prisoner, plan within the walls of this castle the famous union of the
two houses of York and Lancaster, which afterwards brought the Earl

of

108 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of Richmond, subsequently Henry the Seventh, to the throne of
England, by Ins marriage with Elizabeth, daughter of King Henry
the Fourth. This castle has been large and apparently magnificent,
for it is easy to trace the main body, the citadel, and all the parts of
this ancient fortification. On an ascent close to the Wysg is the
priory, situate amid the gloom of trees, which exhibit a profusion of
rich gothic workmanship, forming a pleasing contrast with the fea-
thered foliage that floats about the ruins, chiefly composed of the grey
stone of the country. The approach to the venerable remains of this
priory is over a good stone bridge, almost joining an embattled wall.
The priory was originally founded by Bernard Newarch in the reign
of Henry the First, and was valued at £112. 14s. Od. ;, the house is
now inhabited by a private family ; the south and east sides of the
cloisters, with the refectory, are still entire, with other offices : the
church is now parochial, and is a very magnificent erection, built in
the form of a cross, near 200 feet long and 60 broad, but not so
ancient as the original foundation of the priory. In the centre of this
cross rises an embattled tower, about 90 feet high, which lies open to
the church above the roof. Leland, mentioning this place, says, " In
the town is a mighty great chapel, with a large tower for a bell, of
hard stone costly squared, with the expense of one thousand pounds."
The chancel has no side aisles, but the body of the church has, and
it is also wainscotted, flat at top, and elegantly painted ; on the north
side is a painted cloister, which opens into the church, and joins it to
the priory house ; east, of the church is the ambulatory, or where the
monks used to walk or meditate, now called the priory walks, and are
wonderfully pleasant and romantic, shaded by noble trees, and watered
by the river Honddu, which rolls at the feet of them, but almost
hidden by the thick wood on each side. — The College, once a Domi-
nican Priory, stands at the east end of the town, and apparently, by
the present remains both within and without the chapel, is as old as
the time of Bernard de Newmarch, who is said to have been the
founder also of this place. There still remains part of its old gate-
way, built in a quadrangular form, likewise a cloister, and the
refectory of St. Mary's chapel, with the ancient choir, and nave for
burying. Henry the Eighth converted this place into a college, by
the name of the " College of Christ Church, Brecknock," and joined
it to the college of Abergavenny : it still remains, and consists of the
Bishop of Saint David's, who presides as a dean, a precentor, trea-
surer, chancellor, and nineteen other prebendaries. Here were buried
three Bishops, Mainwaring, Lucy, and Bull. — In the town and fields
contiguous to the castle have been found several Roman coins, and
there are now several large intrenchments to be seen on the hills about
Brecknock, but the most remarkable is Ygaer, or " the fortification,"
two miles north-west of the town. This is indisputably of Roman
origin, and situate on a gentle eminence, near the river Wysg ; part

of

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES* 109

of the walls still remain, and within the camp some square Roman
bricks were found, all inscribed LEG. II. AUG. corresponding with
those found at Caerleon. Close to this camp, in the middle of a
highway, is a remarkable monument, called Maen-y-Morynion, a rude
pillar about six feet high.

About eleven miles north-east from Brecon, on the road, is the
small village of Glasbury, in the neighbourhood of which are several
gentlemen's seats, particularly Tregoyd, Lord Viscount Hereford ;
Maeslough Hall, W. Wilkins, Esq. ; Gwernallt Lodge, Sir Edward
Williams, Bart. ; Dderw House, Sir Charles Morgan, Bart. ; and
Llangoed Castle, J. Macnamara, Esq. The parish is situate on the
banks of the river Wye, and its soil is the boast of the county of
Brecknock. — The chapel of Felindre is in ruins. — The small parish of
Aber-Llyfni adjoins, and is, indeed, almost encircled by the parish of
Glasbury : its chapel has been in ruins for the last sixty years, and all
the duty has been done at Glasbury. It belonged to the family of
Williams of Gwernyfed, or Gwernevet, whose ancient owners are
there interred.

At the distance of about four miles from the village of Glasbury is
Hay, or Tregelli, called also Haseley, a small town, built in a plea-
sant situation near the river Wye, and seems to have been well known
to the Romans, whose coins are frequently found here, and some
remains of walls. It fell into decay about the time of Owen Glyndwr,
who, among other devastations committed on this country, burnt this
place; but Lei and says, that there were in his time the remains of a
strong wall with three gates. Here was formerly a very superb castle,
but by whom built is very uncertain. We find in the year 1215 that
Llewelyn ap Gruffydd dispossessed Giles de Bruce (Bishop of Here-
ford) of it, in consequence of his conspiracy against him ; but when
Llewelyn, in the year 1216, refused King John his assistance against
the French, he marched hence from Hereford, and destroyed the
castle. This fortress was composed mostly of Norman architecture,
and occupied the highest lands of the river's bank, near the parish
church, but nothing more remains of it at present than a mount of
earth with intrenchments. The castle, since its first erection, was
removed to near the centre of the town, and hath at present its gothic
gateway ; but a large house of the reign of James the First occupies
the ancient site of the castle, and the few remains are converted into a
mansion house belonging to the Wellington family. The castle and
manor of Hay were given by King Edward the First to Humphrey de
Bohun, on his marriage with Maud, daughter of William de Fiennes :
It afterwards came into the possession of the Dukes of Buckingham,
and now belongs to Mr. Wellington. Within the town were the
remains of the mansion of a gentleman named Wallwine, by whose
means, it is said, Llewelyn was taken in the neighbourhood of Buallt.
Hay suffered a great loss in the winter of 1 794, when the resistless

torrent

1 10 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

torrent of the Wye carried away its handsome stone bridge. — The
church of Hay is dedicated to Saint Mary, and the only thing at
present worth the traveller's peculiar notice is the view from its
church-yard, which is extremely grand and beautiful.

Dinas Castle, situate on the top of a hill, one mile from Blaen
Llevenu and about nine south of Hay, is now entirely in ruins, and
almost level with the ground, yet there are the appearances of three
courts walled about. Contiguous were three parks and a forest ; the
parks are now laid down, but had formerly a great number of red
deer. The people about Dinas burnt the castle, to prevent its falling
into the enemy's hands, and so becoming expensive and troublesome
to the country as a regular fortress.

BUALT, BUILTH, OR BUALLT,

According to Carlisle, means " the Castle Ascent ;" but signifying,
according to Humphrey Lhwyd, " Ox Cliff, or Oxen Holt ;" is a
neat market town, pleasantly situate on a small plain surrounded with
wood and mountains, with a handsome stone bridge, which connects
the counties of Brecknock and Radnor. This small town is regularly
built, having two parallel streets, which form irregular terraces on the
side of a deep declivity. The principal of these streets is very near
the river Wye, but extremely narrow and ill shaped, and the houses
for the greater part mean and irregular, but are now considerably
improving. — Buallt has long been extolled for the salubrity of its air,
and for the singular beauty of its position on the banks of one of the
finest rivers in South Wales (the Wye), and is encompassed by such
magnificent scenery, that many gentlemen have been induced to fix
their residence in its vicinity, besides having the benefit of Llandrin-
dod Wells, only seven miles distant. This town has also a claim to
great antiquity, being the same that Ptolemy calls the Bullaeum
Silurum of the Romans. In the neighbourhood are several intrench-
ments, in which, we are informed, have been found Roman bricks,
with this inscription — LEG. II. ; but the most remarkable and best
preserved of the intrenchments in these parts is near the road lead-
ing from Buallt to Brecon. In recurring to the Chronicle of Caradog,
we find this place suffered considerably by the Danes in 893, who,
being persecuted by Alfred, sailed to Wales, and after destroying the
country about the coast, advanced to Buallt, which they likewise
demolished. The same fatal consequences happened in 1216; for
when Reynold de Bruce peremptorily broke off his alliance with
Llewelyn ab lorwerth, to make peace with Henry the Third, the
former destroyed all Buallt except the castle. Like most places of
importance in former times, this appears to have had a castle for its
defence, built by the Bruces or Mortimers, but being out of repair in
1209, Gilbert Earl of Glocester fortified it for his own use. About
1215 we find it in the possession of Giles de Bruce, Bishop of Here-
ford ;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. Ill

ford; but when he formed a conspiracy against Llewelyn ap Gruf-
fydd, the latter came in person to Buallt, and had the castle deli-
vered to himself. However, it reverted again to Reynold Bruce,
who was besieged by some Welsh barons in 1220: but before it
could be taken Henry the Third raised the siege. In 1256, we find
it in the possession of Rhys Fychan, whom Llewelyn ap Gruffydd
defeated and forced out of Buallt, and afterwards conferred the same
on Meredith ap Rhys, but he was soon dispossessed of it by Roger
Mortimer, with whom it continued till 1260, when Llewelyn retook
it without opposition, and found within a plentiful magazine. Of the
town and castle nothing more is mentioned, till the unfortunate event
which put a period to the independence of the Welsh and their royal
line of princes, occasioned by the death of Llewelyn ap Gruffydd,
who was basely betrayed by the inhabitants of Buallt on Wednesday,
December llth, 1282. The minute circumstances preceding and
following this great event are no where recorded, except in the fol-
lowing account preserved by tradition among the inhabitants of this
place. Llewelyn posted his army on a hill near Llechryd, a village
below Buallt, on the south side of the Wye. On the north side of
the river, two miles below Buallt, the prince had a house called
Aberedwy, to which he came for the purpose of conferring with
some chieftains of the country. During his stay there he was
alarmed by the approach of some English troops, who probably had
intelligence of his situation. The prince, to extricate himself from
the danger that threatened, caused his horse's shoes to be reversed
to deceive his pursuers, as the snow was on the ground; but this
circumstance was made known to the enemy through the treachery
of the smith, and they followed so closely that Llewelyn had but just
time to pass the drawbridge at Buallt, which being drawn up
secured his retreat. In the meantime, the English troops posted at
Aberedwy, had information of a ford a little lower down called Cefn-
Twm-bach, which they crossed, and by that means came between
Llewelyn and his army stationed at Lhechryd. The only means of
safety now offered was to secrete himself: but the enemy was so
diligent in the pursuit, that the Welsh prince was found in a narrow
dingle, in which he had concealed himself, three miles north of
Buallt, and about five miles from his army; which place from this
event was called Cwm Llewelyn. After Llewelyn was killed, they
cut off his head, and buried his body in a field called Casan,
about two miles from Buallt; and at some subsequent period, a
farm-house was erected over his grave, which goes by the name of
Cefnybedd. The parish is called Llanfair-ym-Mhuallt, i. e. " The
church of Saint Mary in Buallt." In 1691 the town was destroyed
by fire, the loss being estimated at more than £12,000. The church
has been of late years rebuilt: in 1811 there were 19 acres of glebe
land and half an acre of garden ground, but no parsonage-house,

c c

112 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

A little below Buallt are the remains of Aberedwy castle, having
only a stone wall, now overgrown with ivy, but formerly, as just
mentioned, one of the residences of Llewelyn the Great.

Two miles further is Cefn-y-Bedd, in Casan field, also before
noticed, and contiguous is Llechryd, with its ancient castle, now a
modern house, surrounded by a moat.

About one mile north-west of Buallt are some saline springs,
called Park Wells; and about 6 miles from Garth, near Buallt, is the
village of Llanwrtyd, properly Llan-wrth-y-Rhyd, i. e. " the church
opposite to the ford," pleasantly situated upon the banks of the river
Irvon, where the scenery is particularly romantic and picturesque.
In this parish is Llanwrtyd well : it was first particularly noticed near
two hundred years ago by a clergyman, who, it is said, wrote a tract
on its virtues, but at present the publication is not to be found. The
situation is between two hills, in a romantic vale, through which the
river Irvon meanders, with a picturesque view of hanging woods,
impending rocks, contrasted with rich land and barren hills. About
300 yards from Dol-y-Coed is this remarkable spring, called in
Welsh Y Ffynon Drewllyd, or foetid well, which smells strongly of
sulphur, and changes silver almost instantaneously into a gold colour.
This well was opened in 1774, to investigate its course, and after
removing the stones and rubbish which covered its channel, some
black turf 12 inches thick, and a stiff clay of a very dark colour,
mixed with marl, were discovered, and under the latter a light gravel.
The water does not spring from under the gravel, as was at first
supposed, but flows perpendicularly through a bog or morass : it is
very transparent, and never loses its smell or taste, nor is it ever
impregnated with rain water even in the wettest season. As soon
as it is put into a glass it sparkles, and the air-bubbles may be seen
to rise gradually until they are disseminated through the whole, and
remain so for hours. The water is very light and perfectly soft, and
when the hands and face are washed in it, the same sensation is felt
as when soap and common water are used. It dissolves soap immedi-
ately, also intimately unites with it, and sits easy on the stomach, but
passes quickly through the kidnies. The efficacy of the wells have
been proved in the following cases : 1 . An excellent diuretic. 2. Ser-
viceable after intoxication. 3. Nephitic complaints, or where a
stone is not confirmed. 4. Against lowness of spirits. 5. Scorbutic
eruptions, &c. The wells are much frequented during the summer
season ; and hot and cold baths, with dressing rooms attached, and
other conveniences, have been lately erected by the proprietors of the
land, which does them much honour.

Returning to Buallt, and proceeding in a southerly direction, at
the distance of about eleven miles, the traveller passes through
Brecon, three miles south-west of which is Llyn Savathan, generally
called Llangors Pwll or Brecknock Mere, called (by Giraldus)

Clamosum,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 113

Clamosum, from tlie terrible noise it makes, like thunder, upon the.
breaking of the ice in winter. This lake is two miles broad and 13
fathoms deep. In this mere have been found otters, eels, pike, and
perch in great numbers, also trout from the Lleweney. Llyn Sava-
than is described by Giraldus as surrounded by houses, with gardens,
corn fields^ and orchards. Just before the Normans ravaged this
country its waters assumed a miraculous green colour, though at
other times red, which Leland ascribes to the coming in of the
Lleweny after rain, which enters this lake, but is vulgarly said to
retain its own colour, and, as it were, disdaining to mix its waters,
carrying away neither more nor less than it brought in. On the river
Lleweny Ptolemy places Lovintium, of which there are no remains at
present, if there ever were any. — Marianus, related to the venerable
Bede, wrote a chronicle, which is much esteemed. He died in 1086,
aged 58 years, and he calls this place Bricenaic Mere, and says it
was reduced by Edelfleda in 913; but by the reduction it is supposed
he means Blaen Lleveny castle, in the neighbourhood, which appears
to have been the chief fortress in this barony. A good view of the
lake may be had from a hill above Buallt. The country people
have a singular tradition of a large city having been swallowed up by
an earthquake where the lake now is; but this is certainly a fable,
for no history informs us of an earthquake in these parts. If such a
fact had been related of a lake in Naples or Sicily, or any other
country subject to such calamities, it might indeed appear credible;
but stories of this nature are not confined to Llyn Savathan, for they
tell you the same of many other lakes in Wales, as Pwlh-Kynffig in
Glamorganshire, Llyn-Lhan-Lhwch in Carmarthenshire, Y-Llyngwyn
in Radnorshire, Llyn-Deckwyn-Ucha in Merionethshire, and Lhync-
llys between Llanymynech and Oswestry; also of a lake near Welsh
Pool, in Montgomeryshire; and perhaps all have an equal claim to
our credibility.

About eleven miles west of Brecknock is Trefcastle, i. e. " the
Township of the Castle," a miserable village, enclosed by wild
mountains, at the upper vale of the Wsg, which soon expands itself,
after passing the groves of Devenog and Luch yn Tyron. Trecastle
was formerly a large borough and market town, but is now fallen into
decay, still it shews the ruins of a castle; but, according to Mr.
Jones, the early history of Trecastle is involved in impenetrable dark-
ness. ^ On the top of a hill near this place was dug up a stone,
containing an inscription, which shews it to have been a military
station. The village is now chiefly distinguished for a good inn, and
a number of gentlemen's seats in the neighbourhood. Returning to
the road, at the distance of thirteen miles from Brecon, we pass
through the village of Llansaintfred, situate on the banks of the river
Usk, respecting which place Camden says—" At Pentre Yskythrog,
in Lhan Saint Ffered parish, there is a stone pillar erected in the

highway,
cc 2

114 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

highway, about six feet high, but somewhat of a depressed cylinder
form, with a mutilated inscription thereon, which is of a later date
than the Romans, and it is only a monument of some person buried
there, containing no more than his own name and his father's —
N- films Victorim" This stone is still to be seen on the left-
hand side of the road to Brecknock. — The Rev. Thomas Vaughan,
noticed by Mr. Wood in his Athence, was a native and rector of this
parish; and his brother, Henry Vaughan, M. D. author of the Olor
Iscanus and other poems, was buried in this church-yard.

Cerrig-Howell, or Crick-Howel, or Crug Hywel, pleasantly situ-
ated on the river Usk, takes its name from an old British fortress
called Crug Hywel, i. e. " HowelPs Mount," which is seated on a
projecting knoll of the Breannog mountain. The town is in the
direct road from London to Milford Haven, and is supposed to have
been built in the time of Howel Dda, who flourished about the year
940. The river here abounds with excellent fish, and the neigh-
bouring hills with game ; it is also in high repute for goat's whey,
and much resorted to by valetudinarians. Of the castle the remains
are very few, yet its original plan may be easily traced, and much of
its ancient architecture found in the neighbouring cottages, whose
stones are evidently purloined from the old castle, which forms upon
the whole an interesting ruin. The keep appears to have been a very
secure building, seated upon a lofty artificial elevation, and displaying
the foundation, a thick substantial wall. By whom this fortress was
erected is uncertain, but it was last fortified by Sir J ohn Pauncefote,
under a royal commission from King Henry the Fourth, to resist the
incursions of Owen Glyndwr. It probably fell a sacrifice to the fury
of that bold chieftain, after he had demolished the castle of Aberga-
venny : it was certainly a ruin in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, as is
certified in an ancient survey of the manor. At the west end of the
town is an old embattled gateway, called Porth-mawr : it was the
entrance to the old castellated mansion called Cwrt y Carw, i. e.
" the Stag's Court," belonging to a branch of the Herbert family,
which settled in this parish about the reign of Edward the Fourth.
The present proprietor has lately erected a mansion on the premises.
The church, which is dedicated to Saint Edmund the king and
martyr, is distinguished by having the only spire in the county of
Brecknock. In the chancel of the church are two old monuments of
the Pauncefote family, and a more modern one in alabaster of Sir
John Herbert, Knight. It had anciently a chapel of ease, called Llan
Fair, or St. Mary's Church, about a mile distant, on the Brecknock
road. The name still remains, but the last ruins of the building have
within these few years been removed, to make room for a bam.
Giraldus Cambrensis tells us, that he was cited to appear in this
chapel, before the priors of Llanthoni and Brecknock, to answer to
charges brought against him by the Archbishop of Canterbury in the
reign of King Henry the Second.

Near

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 115

Near Crickhowel is the pleasant village of Llangattoc or Llan-
gattwg, the church of which is dedicated to Saint Cadog^who lived
about the middle of the fifth century. It is an extensive parish,
separated from Crickhowel by a stone bridge of fourteen arches. In
the lime-stone vein above the village is a large cavern, called Eglwys
Faen, or " the Rock Church." Upon the Carno mountain, in this
parish, a severe battle was fought between Roderic Molwynog Prince
of North Wales, and Ethelbald King of Mercia, in the year 728 :
two great heaps of stones, or Carnau, are still remaining on the spot :
one of these was opened by the Rev. Henry Thomas Payne, of Llan-
bedr, in 1806, in which a Cistfaen was discovered, curiously con-
structed, but no deposit ; the other appeared to have been previously
opened.

Three miles north-west is Tre'r Twr, i. e. <( the Township of the
Tower," a neat town, the chapel of which is dedicated to Saint John
the Evangelist. Mr. Gough's description of the town, as ' ' a large
well-built town among wood," is erroneous, it being in fact wholly
destitute of wood, except in the hedgerows. The ivy-mantled ruins
of the castle are seen on the right hand of the road to Brecknock.
" The fair place of Henry Vehan, Esq." mentioned by Leland, is still
in part standing, but too much dismantled to deserve that name.

Llan-aml-^Llech, or ff The Church on many Stones," dedicated to
Saint Peter, is thought to take its name from the churchyard abound-
ing with flat stones ; and upon a hillock called Mannest, between it
and Llan-gasty Tal-y-Llyn, is the monument described by Bishop
Gibson under the name of f( Ty-Ilhtud, or Saint Iltut's Hermitage."
It is, in fact, one of those ancient relics called a Cistvaen, or stone
chest, differing in nothing but the name from the Cromlech. The
characters noticed by the bishop (consisting of nine crosses), are
inscribed upon the upright supporting stones within the hollow, but
not in the exact order he has given them, being scattered without any
apparent reference to each other. That Saint Illtyd had an hermitage
here is recorded by Giraldus Cambrensis, and several neighbouring
places still bear his name, as Maen Illtyd, Tir Illtyd, Ffynnon Illtyd.
It is not improbable that the mortified habits of the Saint might have
induced him to make his bed within the hollow of a cistvaen, but he
could not have sat upright in it. A Maen Hir, or upright stone,
formerly stood near the cistyaen, but it has been removed above a
century ago, and employed in building.

Battle is a small town, situated on the banks of the river Yscyr.
The tradition of the country is, that this parish took its name from
a battle, in which Rh£s ap Tewdwr, Prince of South Wales, was
defeated and slain by Robert Fitzhamon, aided by lestyn ab Gwrgant,
Lord of Glamorgan ; in confirmation of which the inhabitants point
out a well called Ffynnon Pen Syr Rhys, or " The Well of the Head
of Sir Rhys." The battle took place previous to the invasion of

Brecknock

116 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Brecknock by Bernard de Newmarch, who therefore could not have
influenced the name. The greater probability is, that the parish has
been so called from the chapel, quasi Chapel y Battle, i. e. " Capella
de Batel," given it by the prior and monks of Brecknock, in honour
of their mother church, St. Martin de Battle, in the county of Sussex,
and constituted a cell by Bernard de Newmarch, its founder.

In the parish of Cathedine, or Tir-y-caeth-Adyn, the church of
which is dedicated to Saint Michael, formerly stood the castle and
borough of Blaen-Llyfni, which, according to Mr. Jones, who wrote
the history of this county, is a borough by prescription. The name
implies The Land of the Wretched Captive. Leland speaks of the
" veri fair Castel now dekaying," and adds that <( by was a Borrow
Towne :" but it appears that the borough was not at Cathedine, but
at Llan Gors, nevertheless called the borough of Blaen Llyfni.

In the vicinity of Defynoc or Tref Dyfnog, i. e. " The Village of
St. Dyfnog," to whom the church is dedicated, is the great forest,
containing about 20,000 acres of land, within five different parishes,
appertaining to the lordship of Brecknock. Under the ancient Lord
Marchers, the forest laws were enforced here with the greatest sever-
ity. King Richard the Second, in the first year of his reign, granted
to the tenants, resiants, and inhabitants of this tract, free liberty and
passage through the same, with water and pasturage for their beasts
through the same, on payment to his said highness one penny, after
the rate and computation of Cyfrif, known by usage of the said
forest; which grant was afterwards confirmed by Inspeximus of King
Henry VIII. After the attainder of the Duke of Buckingham, the
said King granted this part of his possessions to Sir Thomas Sey-
mour, afterwards Lord Seymour of Sudley, and Lord High Admiral.
In the 9th of Queen Elizabeth it was granted in lease for 21 years to
William Jones, paying annually to the crown £20. 6s. 8d. In the
10th George I. a similar lease was granted William Morgan, of
Tredegar, and was afterwards continued upon the same terms to his
representatives ; but eventually the tract was taken into the hands of
the Commissioners of the Crown Lands.

Dinas Castle stood upon a pointed knoll in the forest hamlet of Tal-
garth. It was probably first erected by the Barons Marchers of the
country, to curb the bloody incursions of the natives, who for a long
time continued to possess strongholds in the narrow vales. From
Leland we learn that the fabric was destroyed by the natives, that it
might not be occupied by the favourers of Owain Glyndwr.

In the parish of Llanfilo, on an eminence (westward of the church,
which is dedicated to St. Milburg) called Allt Filo, are the vestiges of
a British encampment of great extent.

Llanelly, the church of which is dedicated to Saint Ellyw, stands
upon a hill commanding a beautiful view of Abergavenny and the
surrounding country. In the churchyard are some venerable yew-
trees ;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 117

trees; the river Clydach, rapidly descending from the mountains
through a deep and rocky channel, and broken into numerous cas-
cades, bisects the parish; the fall of Pwll-y Cwn, or <f the Dog's
Pool, is of considerable height, and has peculiar beauties. In this
Cwm are the Clydach ironworks, which are carried on by Messrs.
Frere and Co. who are supplied with the requisite materials from the
adjoining mountain, by means of an inclined-plane railway. There
is an old British fortress on a hill above the works, on the west of the
Clydach.

Llan-Frynach has its church dedicated to Saint Brynach, a saint
and renowned British Abbot, who flourished in the fifth century. A
Roman bath was discovered upon Pen-y-Pentre farm in this parish,
in the year 1783: it is now entirely demolished. Several Roman
coins have also at different times been discovered here.

Llangammarch parish, the church of which is dedicated to Saint
Cammarch, is celebrated for having given birth to James Howell, the
voluminous writer and eccentric wanderer. In 1619 he left England,
and visited Holland, Flanders, France, Spain, and Italy. He pub-
lished Dodona's Grove, which went through many editions, and was
well received. At the restoration of Charles the Second he was
made the first Historiographer Royal in England, which office he
enjoyed till his death in 1666. The pious and learned Theophilus
Evans was also born in this parish. According to tradition there
was formerly a chapel-of-ease here, called Llwyn-y-Fynwent : there
are .also visible remains of ancient fortifications at a place called
Caerau.

About 80 yards below the church of Llanynys, on the river Irvon,
stood the bridge, mentioned in history, near to which Llewelyn ap
GruiFydd, the last prince of Wales, was slain. The Reverend
Charles Price, in the year 1811, says, "I have seen part of the
timbers of this bridge in the bank of the river." To the south of the
church is a steep slope covered with wood of at least a mile high,
near the summit of which are flat places cut by art, seemingly for
encampments or ambushes, from which directly down to the bridge
above-mentioned, there are roads or passes running straight down
the slope, at nearly equal distances from each other: they are about
300 yards asunder, and the principal one leads direct to the bridge.
In the parish of Trallong is an old intrenchment on the eastern

?art, which confronts another on the south-east, in the parish of
Jan-Spyddyd, both called Twyn y Gaer, about a mile and a half
distant from each other.-r-There is a field in this parish, where (tradi-
tion says) the renowned Owain lolo Goeh is buried; it bears the
name to this very day. There is a stone in the church of Llan-
Spydydd, where the tradition of the country informs us Brychan
Brecheiniog was buried, but which Mr. Jones supposes commemo-
rates the interment of his father Aulach. Milo Earl of Hereford,

who

118 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

who was unfortunately killed by an arrow by one of his knights in
hunting, A.D. 1144, granted the manor and advowson to the priors
and monks of Malvern.

The church of Cantref, dedicated to St. Mary, is romantically
situate upon an eminence near the river Cynrig ; this benefice was
anciently appendant to the great lordship of Brecknock, but having
fallen to the Crown by the attainder of the Duke of Buckingham, it
was afterwards granted to William Awbrey, D. C. L. a civilian of
considerable eminence in the reign of Queen Elizabeth ; from thence
it passed by marriage to the Powells of Swansea, in whose family it
now remains. Within this parish are the lofty mountains called the
Brecknock Beacons, the principal of which is denominated Cader
Arthur, or "Arthur's Chair." Sir Richard Colt Hoare has very
properly corrected the error of there being f a well with trout in it'
upon its summit, which does not exist. It is now commonly called
Pen y Fan, or, by way of eminence, The Van, and is the highest
mountain in South Wales.

In the parish of Llan-Afan-fechan, or ' ' the Small Church of Saint
Afan," to whom the church is dedicated, and which is situated on the
banks of the river Irfon, is a tremendous precipice at a place called
Cwm Graig ddu, or " the Vale of the Black Rock."

Llan-Ddetty has its church dedicated to St. Tetta. This parish
extends from the south bank of the river Usk to the borders of the
county of Glamorgan, and is agreeably diversified with hill and dale.
The benefice was anciently and successively holden in patronage by
the noble families of de Breos, Mortimer, and Stafford Duke of
Buckingham, as parcel of the great lordship of Pen Celli, but merging
to the Crown by the attainder of the Duke of Buckingham, in the
reign of King. Henry the Eighth, it was granted, with the manor of
Wenallt, in this parish, to one of the Vaughans of Bredwardine, and
has since passed by sale, through the families of Morgan and Jones,
into that of Gwynne of Buckland, with whom it now remains. The
Roman road from Caerphilly to Brecknock traverses the whole length
of this parish, and on cutting the Brecknock canal a small sacrificial
instrument was discovered, which was obtained by the Rev. Henry
Thomas Payne, of Llan-bedr ; and in passing through a wet boggy
field here, several trees were dug up four or five feet below the sur-
face, perfectly black, and of a very hard consistency.

Llan-Ddew or Llan-Ddewi, the church of which is dedicated to
Saint David, is situate on the banks of the river Honddu. The
Bishops of Saint David's had formerly a castellated mansion here,
which Leland says was in his time (( an onsemeli ruine :" he then
adds, that the " Archdiacon of Brekenokhath a house even there, and
that is also fallen down for the more part ; Giraldus makith mention
of this house." During the time of the Commonwealth the manor of
Llan-Ddew was sold by parliament to David Morgan, Esq. but at the

Restoration

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 119

Restoration it was recovered by the see. The castle is demolished.
Here was the residence of the celebrated Giraldus Cambrensis. " Of
this parish," says Mr. Jones, " I will hazard a conjecture, though I
will not assert it as an historical fact, that the present parish anciently
formed part of Saint David's, or Plwyf Ddewi, in the county of
Brecknock; that there was a chapel of ease within the latter, in which
the archdeacon officiated, for which he had the tithes, and is ever
since the patron of the living ; and to this day there is a prevailing
opinion among many of the common people, that the College, being
within the circuit of the parish of Saint David's, though certainly
extra-parochial, constitutes a parcel of the parish of Llan Ddewi ;
that the poor who gain a settlement within the precinct of the college
are parishioners of Llan Ddewi, and the poor who die in the former
place should be buried in the cemetery of the mother church."

Maes-Mynys, probably Maes-am-ynys, i.e. " the plain which
surrounds the rising ground," hath its church dedicated to Saint
David. This parish is situate on the banks of the rivers Irvon and
Dihonw. There formerly stood, about a quarter of a mile east of the
church, a stone set on end, about 7| feet high and 3 feet square, called
Maen Ddewi, or David's stone : it stood on a small eminence close
by a large wood, called Gilfach Dedwydd, or <{ the blissful retreat."
This stone was of a kind not to be found in the neighbourhood, and
was, doubtless, conveyed from afar ; some suppose it to be composed
of small white pebbles and a certain cement (probably the mill-stone
or pudding stone). It appears to have been a druidical altar, and
many droll stories are told concerning it. It was blasted to pieces by
gunpowder, about twenty years ago, by the owner of the land.

Patrishow. — The church of this parish (dedicated to Saint Ishaw
or Ishow) stands upon a knoll or rising ground above a small stream,
called Nant-Mair, or " Mary's Brook." St. Ishow's well is at the
bottom of the hill, walled on three sides, but open in the front, and
covered: in the walls were recesses, which were, most probably,
intended to receive the presents made by pious votaries. Herewald,
Bishop of Llandaff, consecrated a church here in the eleventh
century, when it was called Merthur Issui, evidently a corruption of
Merthyr Ishow, i. e. " Ishow the Martyr ;" but the present building
is not older than the fifteenth century. The present name of the parish
seems to be a corruption of Parthawr-Ishow, i.e. " the region or
country of Ishow. In the church is a beautiful rood-loft and screen,
carved in Irish oak, which, from the wyverns and union of the two
roses appearing among the embellishments, is conceived to have been
erected in the reign of Henry the Seventh. The font, hollowed out
of a single stone, is capacious and of great antiquity, as appears from
the name of Gynhyllyn inscribed upon the rim, in rude characters.
This Gynhyllyn or Cynhyllyn was a British lord of Ystrad Wy about
the reign of King Henry the. First, and permitted to retain his

property

120 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

property after the conquest of the county by Bernard de Newmarch.
The bridge of Pont yr Escob, or " The Bishop's Bridge," noticed by
Sir Richard Hoare in his elegant Illustrations (vol. 1, p. 94), crosses
the Grwyney Faror, and connects this parish with the opposite one of
Cwmyog and the forest of Moyle, in the county of Monmouth.

Pen Derin, or Pen y Daren, " the head of the rock," hath its
church dedicated to Saint Cynog. A great part of Hir Waun
Wrgan, where the battle was fought between lestyn ap Gwrgan and
Rhys ap Tewdwr, in which the latter was defeated, is situate within
this parish : it is an extensive boggy common, extending from two to
three miles east and west; and not only this plain but almost the
whole of Pen y Daren still bear memorials of this conflict. The little
brook called Sych Rhyd, or " Dry Ford," which falls into the
united streams of the Mellte and Hepste, at the foot of Craig y
Dinas, here divides the counties of Brecknock and Glamorgan. The
ironworks raised by the Hir Waun Company are under a lease
granted by the Marquis of Bute, at an annual rent, and the lessees
pay no gallage, as is frequently the case in this country.

Rhos Fferreg, i.e. " the marsh of Ferreg," is in the parish of Llan-
fihangel Bryn Pap levan. In this hamlet, near Pare Wood, are
three mineral springs, which are much resorted to in the summer
season. Ferreg or Ferlex, a territory noticed in the ancient Welsh
histories, was that extent of country which lies between the rivers
Wye and Severn, and was governed by its own reguli, who also
possessed a considerable portion of Brycheiniog or Brecknockshire,
as it is now named. Rhos Fferreg, therefore, though situate on the
opposite side of the Wye, from Fferreg or Ferlex properly so called,
had in all probability its name from hence; and is now perhaps the
only spot which records that ancient name. This was one of the
mansions of Elystan Glodrydd, the stock of one of the live Royal
tribes of Wales, and is now, or recently was, the property of one of
his lineal descendants.

Faenor, or Y Faenor Wen, hath its church dedicated to Saint
Gwenfrewi, and is situate close to the lesser Taf, but there is no
village or even a single house adjoining. There are several car-
neddau in this parish. The mineral spring on Nantgwyn farm is
almost disused. About half-a-mile from the church is a remarkable
wood bridge over the Taf; and at a little distance above is an exten-
sive cavern, called Ogof Rhyd Sych, or " the dry cavern."-^The
village of Coed y Cymer has been raised in consequence of the iron-
works at Merthyr Tydfil, and is built on a common without any
regard to regularity. The stupendous rocks, called Graig-Fawr and
Pen-Moel-Allt command particular attention.

Llanfeugan hath its church dedicated to Saint Feugan or Meugan.
whose history is unknown. The parish lies along the banks of the
river Usk : this benefice was anciently in the patronage of the Lords

Marchers

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 121

Marchers of the castle of Pencelli. Upon the attainder of the Duke
of Buckingham, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, it merged in the
crown : it was afterwards granted to the Aubrey family, from whence
it passed into that of Kemeys, and is now vested in J. Kemeys Tynte,
Esq. of Haswell Court, in the county of Somerset, and of Cefn Mable,
in the county of Glamorgan. The church is pleasantly situated on
the declivity of a hill, on the south side of the Usk. There is no
certainty when or by whom the castle of Pencelli was erected, arid
there is hardly a vestige of it now remaining: some of the walls and
rooms of the old mansion of the Herberts, upon the spot where it
stood, still continue, but great additions and alterations have from
time to time been made, and it is now a farmer's dwelling. The
manor of Pencelli was anciently one great lordship ; which, during
the reigns of Edward the First or Edward the Second, was divided
into English and Welsh Pencelli : it has since been divided into five
lordships, viz. Pencelli Castle and the manor of that name, English
Pencelli, Pencelli Orgwm, Wenallt, and Welsh Pencelli, to which
the contiguous lordship of Scethrog has lately been added.

Glyn Collwyn, or " The Glen of the Hazel Wood," is in this
parish ; it is situate close upon the brook Carfannell, which runs the
whole length of the valley, and falls into the river Usk below Tal y
Bont. A earn within this hamlet was opened some years ago by a
person called Twm-Bach or Little Tom, who came thither from
North Wales, induced, as it is said, by some Welsh verses which he
had met with, to search for treasure within it, when a large cist,
containing various antiquities, were discovered; but unfortunately
none of them were preserved, as the finder sold them to an itinerant
jew.

Llan-Afan-Fawr, or " The Great Church of St. Afan," to whom
the church is dedicated. On a tomb-stone in the churchyard is
engraven, in large Saxon letters, te Hie jacet Sanctus Avanus
Episcopus."-^-The vicarage-house is pleasantly situated on the banks
of the Chewefri, about a quarter of a mile below the church. The
district of LI} s-Dinam is now called a hamlet of Llan-Afan-Fawr,
yet it is to many purposes a separate and distinct parish, maintains
its own poor, appoints its own officers, and repairs its own highways.
Since the church has fallen into ruins, it pays a contribntion of the
sixth of the assessments towards the repair of Llan-Afan church, and
one-third to Llanfihangel Brynn Pab levan, the latter being the usual
place of worship to which the inhabitants resort; but there is great
reason to believe that this payment was at first voluntary, though
prescription has now established it and made it compulsory. Be-
sides the decay of the church, Lly s-Dinam has undergone several
other vicissitudes in the course of time, which have probably much
changed the face of the country, as well as the population, the wealth,
employments, habits, and manners of the inhabitants. In the old

surveys

122 TPOOGRATHICAL NOTICES.

surveys of the manor of Buallt, and in ancient presentments, the
weavers ofDinam are considered as a body corporate, and are assessed
and pay their chief-rents to the lord separately from the neighbouring
inhabitants. A tenement in this hamlet is called Penllys, i. e. " The
High Court of Justice;" and the proprietors of this land also formerly
were so named, as leuan Penllys, i. e. Evan of the High Court," or
it may with equal propriety be translated " Evan, the Head of the
Court or Chief Justice,"; so that here the law was probably adminis-
tered for the government of the manufacturers, under regulations of
their own, and subject to charters of their own adoption, or by
grants from the lords under whose protection they resided; but the
shuttle has been exchanged for the mattock, and the seat of justice is
now perhaps converted into a beast-house.-^-c/bTzes's History of
Brecknock, vol. 2. part \,p. 242.

Llantihangel-Cwm-Du.— In very ancient documents this parish was
called Llanfihangel Tref y Caerau, or " Michael's Church apud
Castra," and was granted to the church of Llandaffby a British prince
named Tydor, in the time of Gurvan, the tenth bishop of that see, and
afterwards confirmed to his successor Libian, who died in 929. The
Rev. Thomas Payne, of Llanbedr, reflecting with great judgment
upon this name, was encouraged to make researches, many years ago,
and discovered what he conceives to be decidedly the site of a Roman
station, at a place called Pentre Gaer, and in which opinion he is
supported, as well by local tradition, that it was anciently a great town,
as by the innumerable fragments of bricks, pottery, and cement,
which are not only thickly strewed upon the surface, but intimately
ble»ded~^dtir the soil. This worthy gentleman had a regular plan
made of this station by an ingenious surveyor, and which is carefully
recorded in Mr. Jones's History of tjie County of Brecknock, a
work of extraordinary merit, and that does honour to the principality.
In a field about a quarter of a mile from the encampment to the south-
east is a stone, noticed by the Hon. Daines Barrington to the
Society of Antiquaries of London, on the 18th Nov. 1773, upon the
communication of Mr. Maskelyne : it stood at a short distance from
the Roman road to Gaer, and now lies under a hedge. Mr. Maske-
lyne, however, did not give the inscription accurately. The name of
this parish is commonly, but it is thought erroneously, written Cwm
Dii, i. e. " the Black Vale," which is by no means applicable to the
appearance of the country, which is more open and of a wider extent
than any other parish in its neighbourhood, The indignation of the
natives is considerable at what they deem a reproachful appellation,
for they say, " the Black Vale is a nick-name ; our's is a Fair Vale ;"
and so it is. Previously to the establishment of Brecknock as a
county, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, it formed a part of the
great Lordship Marcher of Ystrad-Wy. Talgarth, which lies to the
north, from hence was called Ystrad-Wy-Uchaf, or " the Upper

Ystrad-Wy,"

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 123

Ystrad-Wy," Cwm-de was called Ystrad-Wy-Isaf, or " the Lower
Ystrad-Wy ;" and the inhabitants of Talgarth would naturally call
the latter Cwm-de, or " the South Vale," as it certainly was to them.
In the middle of what may be properly called the valley of Cwm-de
runs the little river of Rhiangoll (Rhean Cell, L e. " the Sheltered
Stream,") over which there are three bridges, and one upon the turn-
pike road, called Pont y Brynn Hir. Near this is a well of clear
water, called Ffynnon y Gwrlodau, but of no medicinal virtue,
excepting in the idea of the vulgar.

Llan-Gynydr, or Llan Gynyd, hath its church dedicated to Saint
Cynydr or Cynyd, who lived about the end of the fifth century. In
early books of institution this is called Llan Gynyd Eglwys Yail,
from a stream called Yail, passing by the church, and Llan Gwnyd
Eglwys Vessey, or Llan Gynyd cum Eglwys Vessey, probably from
an old chapel, the ruins of which were lately to be seen on the banks
of the river Crawnant, about two miles distant from the village.
Previous to the formation of the canal, where is a wharf, below the
church, the Llan-Gynyd hills afforded the principal supply of lime
for the consumption of the country ; and indeed several persons still
carry on a considerable trade from thence on horse's backs. At the
extremity of this parish, towards the county of Glamorgan, are the
Union or Rhymny Ironworks, carried on by Messrs. Crawshay and
Co. under a lease from the Duke of Beaufort ; the river Rhymny,
which passes by them, separates the counties of Brecknock and Gla-
morgan. Tradition still points out the site of the ancient castle, near
the road leading from the village of Llan-Gynyd to Brecknock, but of
its history we are ignorant ; and it is thought to have been nothing
more than a lodge for a forester or woodward, belonging to the Lords
of Tre'r-Twr Castle. Upon the hills in this parish are three or four
carneddau.

se Upon a cross in the highway at Faenor is a large stone pillar,
the inscription whereof, although it be entirely preserved, is to
me," says Camden, <f unintelligible, for I dare not rely on a slight
conjecture I had at first view of it, that it might be read, f In nomine
Domini Jesu Christi Tilus;' Tilaus or Teilaw being an eminent
saint, to whom many churches in Wales are consecrated."

GLAMORGANSHIRE.

124 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

GLAMORGANSHIRE,

V^'ALLED by the Britons Morganwg Gwlad, and Gwlad-Vor-
ganwg, was so called (as some imagine) from Morgan, a prince, or,
others suppose, from an abbey of that name; but, says Camden,
" if I should deduce it from the British M6r, which signifies the sea,
I know not for certain whether I should deviate from the truth." In
the time of the Romans this country was part of the district inhabited
by the Silures, and had several Roman stations; as Boverton, a few
miles south of Cowbridge, which is supposed to be the Bovium of
Antoninus, Neath to be his Nidum, and Llacharn to have been his
Leucarum. The principal rivers are the Taf, the Nedd, the Tawy,
the Osmore, and the Rumney ; the least considerable streams are the
Elay, Eweny, Melta, Trawgath, and Turch, all of which produce an
abundance offish, particularly salmon, sewin, and trout, of very fine
flavour.

SWANSEA,

or Eglwys-Fair-Aber-Tawy, is a pleasant well-built town on the
river Tawy, and situate near the centre of a most beautiful bay, on
an angle between two hills, which defend it from the north-west to
the north-east, while the southerly winds blowing over a vast expanse
of sea, render the air mild. The town has a very handsome appear-
ance from the road approaching to it, being built on a semicircular
rising bank near the mouth of the Tawy ; it is also populous, with
good houses, wide streets, and a considerable trade : the market
house, which is very commodious, is said to be covered with the lead
from Saint David's Cathedral, given by Cromwell to a gentleman of
this town. The old mansion house of the lord of the manor, built
round a quadrangle, is now converted into a warehouse and stables,
having over the gate the arms of William Earl of Pembroke in the
time of Henry the Eighth, quartering those of Sir H. Herbert, Lord
of Swansea. Here was an hospital, founded by Bishop Govver in
1352, and a free school built and endowed by Hugh Gore, Bishop of
Waterford and Lismore, in Ireland, in the year 1684, and to which
the corporation have of late years added twenty guineas per annum,
making altogether an endowment of £60 per annum. The castle was
probably built by Henry Earl of Warwick in the year 1 113, when he
fortified'the town, and was burnt down by Rhys ap Gruffydd, Prince
of South Wales : a high tower, consisting principally of a curious
light parapet upon gothic arches, supporting a few massy walls, is now
used for a gaol and workhouse. The church is a modern well-built
edifice, dedicated to Saint Mary, consisting of a nave and two aisles,

separated

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 125

separated from the centre by eight pillars, four on each side, being in
length 72 feet by 54 feet wide ; the whole is neatly paved, and has a
gallery and organ. Some remains of the old church, which fell in
1739, are still visible north-east of the yard. Swansea at this period
enjoys many advantages not to be found in any other part of Wales.
Here the tide ebbs and flows a considerable way over a flat sandy
shore, and up the river Tawy, which runs through the town, and is
navigable for vessels of considerable burthen for about two miles.
This place has also within these thirty years become a considerable
market town, particularly in copper, coals, lime, iron, brass, spelter,
tin, and earthenware, which employ upwards of 1900 sail of vessels
annually; the quantity of coals that are on an average exported
yearly amounts to upwards of 114,000 chaldrons. Exclusively of its
intercourse with London, Bristol, Cornwall, and Ireland, it has a
considerable share of foreign trade to the Baltic and to the West
Indies, from which it appears that few places in this kingdom have
made so great and rapid an increase in trade as Swansea within a
few years. In 1791 a bill passed, empowering the Corporation to
repair and enlarge the harbour of Swansea by turning the river
through the western channel, by which the entrance into the harbour
has been rendered shorter, safer, and deeper. The corporation has
likewise expended a considerable sum of money in enlarging and
making the bathing-house commodious for company resorting annually
to Swansea for the benefit of sea-bathing, which at present affords
every thing necessary to comfort or to amuse the stranger. North of
Swansea is the canal, on which there are no less than thirty-six
locks in the space of sixteen miles, from an elevation of 372 feet, and
several aqueducts. Adjoining are several smelting copper works,
the iron forge, brass and tin works, a fine copper rolling mill,
iron furnaces and foundry, and a most stupendous steam-engine at
Llandwr, which cost the proprietors upwards of £5000 to complete.
This machine throws up from a vast depth 100 gallons of water
every stroke, which is repeated twelve times in a minute, making
72,000 gallons an hour.

Swansea is situate in that part of Glamorgan called Gower, which
was conquered about the year 1100 by Henry de Beaumont, Earl of
Warwick, and over which the Duke of Beaufort now claims a seigniory
and particular jurisdiction. The south-west part of Gower is inha-
bited by the successors of a colony of Flemings, who neither talk nor
understand the Welsh language, and are distinguished by their dialect
and provincial dress ; they seldom, if ever, intermarry with their
neighbours on the north-west side of Gower, the inhabitants of which
universally speak Welsh. A peculiar kind of provincial article of
dress is worn in Gower, called the Gower Whittle, manufactured
from fine wool, and then dyed scarlet : it is nearly square, about a
yard each way ; at the bottom is a handsome fringe, or (in the pro-

\ii cial

126 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

vincial term) Ddrum; the whittle is thrown across the shoulders,
and fastened before with a pin or brooch, but the old provincial mode
of fastening was with the prickle of a black-thorn, which being of
itself of a tough nature, and being dried, is sufficiently strong to pene-
trate the whittle. Some of the old women retain it to this day. The
whittle is also worn in the neighbourhood of Fishguard, in the county
of Pembroke, where there is a colony of the same people (Flemings).
When the French landed there a few years ago, the women ran down
to the sea shore with these whittles on, which much terrified the
Frenchmen, who took them at a distance for a corps of soldiers. The
whole of the neighbourhood of Swansea is filled with extensive mines
of coal, iron, and lime-stone.

In a conspicuous place about three miles from Swansea, on the
Tawy, is Morris-Town, a newly-erected village, and on the summit
of a steep hill, is the castle, a quadrangular building, which owes its
origin to Mr. Morris, a proprietor of the leading works in this place,
and is one of the best houses in the county.

Oystermouth hath its church dedicated to All Saints, and there is
a castle, which is a fine ruin, on the coast, about five miles north of
Swansea, near the promontory of Mumbles Head, which, terminating
in high hills, and stretching out far into the bay, affords a safe
anchorage to ships passing up and down the channel. The castle
is situated on an eminence, having its principal walls but little
injured, and most of the apartments may yet be easily distinguished;
the general figure is polygonal, the ramparts lofty, but not flanked
with towers, except just at the entrance. This building is ascribed
to the Earl of Warwick in the reign of Henry the First; the gateway
is nearly perfect, and also a staircase leading to a terrace : there are
several dungeons within the castle, and in one of them is a circular
stone pillar, into which each visitor sticks a pin, according to an old
custom.

About eight miles from Oystermouth Castle is Penrice or Pen-
Rhys, a seaport seated on the Bristol channel ; it has a good harbour
for ships, and carries on a small trade of exports and imports for
country purposes. Its ancient castle has been a superb edifice, well
defended with bastions and turrets, as appear conspicuous by consi-
derable ruins. It is said to have been built soon after the Norman
conquest. Sir Hugh Mansell, Knt. married Isabella, sister and sole
heiress of Sir John Penrice, Knt. Lord of Oxwich and other large
territories in this county. Very near the village is an old intrench-
ment; and in the village (formerly a town) stands the ancient
market-place, where the pedlars and hawkers expose their respective
goods for sale on market days. The church (dedicated to Saint
Andrew) is a remarkably neat one, standing close to the village, and
at a distance appears a pleasing object, particularly from the grounds
at Penrice Castle. The tower of the church has been raised, and

otherwise

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 127

otherwise much improved, at the expense of Mr. Talbot. The house
called the Sanctuary, at a little distance from the village, is said to
have belonged to the manor of Millwood or St. John's, formerly the
property of the Knights of Jerusalem.

About seven miles from Swansea is Neath, a market town, seated
at the bottom of a valley, on the banks of the river Nedd : the streets
are extremely irregular and narrow, and the houses, with few excep-
tions, ill-built and disagreeable^ being generally covered with the
smoke of the copper-works in the neighbourhood, a circumstance
which must render it a very unhealthy place of residence, although
its population exceeds 3000 inhabitants. A few ruins of the old
castle of Neath, which was built by Richard de Grana- Villa, or
Granvill (a Norman), Lord of Neath, in the reign of Henry the
First, still remain, particularly one narrow piece of wall, which rises
to a great height, and, being unsupported by any other part of the
building, threatens the adjacent cottages with destruction on the first
hurricane that may happen. In 1231, Llewelyn ap lorwerth, being
offended at Hugh Burgn's conduct on the Marches, burnt this castle
to the ground. In the neighbourhood are some very extensive works
for the manufacture of copper, which at no distant period promise to
render Neath very different in point of appearance and respectability
to what it is at present. The church of Neath is dedicated to Saint
Thomas the Apostle. This place is the Nidum of Antoninus.

About one mile west of Neath, near the road, stands Neath Abbey,
called by Leland " the fairest in all Wales." It is styled by the
Welsh Abatty Glyn-Nedd, or " the Abbey of the Vale of Neath."
This abbey was founded for Cistercians by Richard de Granaville (or
Granville) and Constance his wife, who gave their chapel in Neath
castle, likewise the tithes belonging to it, and a large tract of waste
land, with other possessions, in the time of Henry the First, to endow
the same, and it was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. About the
time of its dissolution it contained only eight monks, and was valued
at £132. 7s. 7d. per annum, but according to Speed £150. 4s. 9d.
and was granted (33d Henry VIII.) to Sir Richard Williams. The
ruins stand on the west side of the river, composed of rough stones
with lancet windows, which form the north side of a quadrangle. The
gates, hall, and gallery still remain, having in front of a contiguous
room, in stone, the arms of England and of John of Gaunt, also those
of Granville. In this Abbey the unfortunate Edward the Second
sheltered himself till he was taken. At this time the remains are
principally inhabited by some poor families. The ichnography of
the old church, which was of elegant architecture and immense size,
may be easily traced. A little north of Neath is a beautiful cataract
falling nearly 150 feet perpendicular.

Four miles from Neath is Aberavon, a small village, seated on the
banks of the Avon, having its church dedicated to Saint Mary ; its
castle is in ruins, and the village is chiefly noticed for a small haven.

D d Llychwyr

128 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Llychwyr, a poor village, situate on a river of the same name, lias
the outward walls of an ancient square castle, fortified by a treble
trench; the castle was destroyed by Rhys ap Gruffydd in 1215,
when he brought this county to his subjection. The ancient town
and church are supposed to have stood nearer the river, on the other
side of the castle. On the north-east of the town, at a place called
Cefn-y-Bryn, is a vast stone, of twenty tons weight, commonly called
Arthur's stone, said to have been fixed there by that hero. There is
a tradition among the people about a well under this stone, which is
said to ebb and flow with the sea ; but Bishop Gibson very judiciously
says he has his doubts respecting it.— -There is a ford over the river to
Llanelly, a small irregular town, containing an old seat of Sir John
Stepney, which has long been deserted by the family. The church
has a high square embattled tower, remarkable for being wider at its
base than upwards, forming a cone. This district is very picturesque
and fertile, having adjacent the base of Margam Hill, the property of
Mr. Manselly which is beautifully shaded with groves of majestic
oaks. Contiguous is the mansion of Briton Ferry, which is surround-
ed by fertile lands and spacious plantations.

Bridgend is a populous town, situate on the river Ogmore; the
town is divided into three parts, called Oldeastle, Newcastle, and
Bridgend, the two first of which have remains of castles. The soil
around is exceedingly fertile and well cultivated, and the town is in a
considerable state of improvement, a woollen manufactory being set
on foot there. The river Ogmore divides the town in two parts,
which are joined by a good stone bridge.-^Richard Price, D.D. was
born near this place, and here his connexions afe settled.

Two miles from Bridgend is the village of Coity, having its church
dedicated to Saint Mary. Here are the remains of a castle built by
Paganus de Tourberville in 1091. The Earl of Leicester, by mar-
riage with Barbara, heiress of John Gamage, Esq. Lord of Coity,
became possessed of this castle and his estates in Wales.— David
Hopgyn, the poet, was born here ; he was admitted into the Gorsedd
Morganwg in 1700, and presided at it in 1730.

At a small distance from Bridgend is Ogmore Castle, situate on a
plain ground near the road, and one mile above the mouth of the rivers
Ogmore and Ewenney. It is undoubtedly of considerable antiquity,
being mentioned by Caradoc as early as the reign of William Rufus,
where it is recorded that the manor and castle was bestowed by
Robert Fitzhamon on William de Londres, one of the twelve Norman
knights who, in the year 1091, attended him in the conquest of this
county. It appears to have been entire when Leland wrote his
Itinerary ; but at present only the keep and some outward walls
remain : the former has a great resemblance to the keeps at Roches-
ter, Dover, and the tower of London. A small distance south-east of
.the castle are several pits filled with water, said to have sunk sponta-
neously.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.! 129

neously ; one of them is deemed unfathomable, being circular and
seven fbet in diameter, with a rail to prevent accidents.

Newton, or Newton Nottage, is remarkable for a well about 18
feet in circumference, which ebbs and flows in opposition to the sea ;
that is, when it is high water at sea the water subsides in the well,
and when it is low water at sea the water rises in the well. In order
to account for this phenomenon, it has been supposed that at high
water, the air in the veins of the spring not beirig at liberty to circu-
late by its being pent up, the water is prevented from issuing out ;
but when the sea retires from the shore, and frees these natural
aqueducts from those obstructions, the water is at liberty to issue
through them. The church is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.
—It is thought the name should be written Newton Nunnage, as it is
not improbable that there was a nunnery here.

On leaving Bridgend in a northerly direction, and at the distance
of six miles, is the town of Llantrissent of Llantrisairit, i. e. ee the
Church With Three Saints," being dedicated to St. Iddog, St. Dy-
faenog, and St. leuan, situate near the summit of a cleft in one of the
high hills which bound the vale of Glamorgan. The streets are, from
their situation, steep and narrow, but the prospects which this obscure
place affords are singularly striking, and more than compensate the
traveller for surmounting some inconveniences in ascending their
heights. It is an ancient borough, and its precincts abound with
mines of lead ore, the property of the Marquis of Bute, who inclosed
the manor. Here was once a castle, now nearly destroyed, excepting
a fragment of its lofty round tower and the vestiges of out- works,
which are nearly concealed by numerous shrubs. A new market
house and town hall were recently erected by the nobleman just named
within the precincts of the old castle. The church is a large Norman
edifice, on a situation which commands a delightful prospect of the
surrounding country. This was the birth-place of the celebrated Sir
Llywelyn Jenkins, Secretary of State to James the Second. In this
parish are two chapels, one called St. John's, and the other Talagam,
now in ruins.

Two miles south-east are the remains of Castell Crug. A few
years ago a good road was made from this place to the famous Pont y
Prydd, or " the New Bridge," which is only a few miles distant, and
situate in a beautiful vale, with very extensive views : it is a stupen-
dous arch thrown across the river Taf. This extraordinary structure
is a perfect segment of a circle, the chord of which is 140 feet, and
the height, from the key-stone to the spring of the arch, 34. The
bridge was undertaken, at the expense of the county, by one William
Edwards, a common stone-mason of the vicinity, who likewise con-
tracted to ensure its standing for a certain number of years. From
the width and rapidity of the river, he failed in his first attempt ; for,
after completing a bridge with three arches, a flood, with the natural

D d 2 impetuosity

130 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES,

impetuosity of the river, carried it away completely. He then con-
ceived a noble design of raising a single arch over this ungovernable
stream, which he accordingly completed ; but the crown of the arch
being very light and thin, it was soon forced upwards by the heavy
pressure of the abutments, which were necessarily loaded with an
immense quantity of earth, that the ascent of the bridge might be
more practicable. Not yet discouraged by these failures, he again, in
1750, boldly dared to improve on his second plan, and executed the
present surprising arch, in which he lightened the abutments by
making three circular tunnels through each of them, which effectually
answered the purpose, and besides gave a lightness and elegance to
the structure that may now bid defiance to the most unruly floods that
can possibly rise in the river, and seems calculated to endure for many
ages. This work is as excellent a specimen of masonry as can any-
where be found. To view this arch as an external object, it can
scarcely be sufficiently admired, as, crossing the vale abruptly, it
appears to connect the opposite hills, while, with its light and elegant
curve, it does in a manner almost produce the effect of magic, and
will be a lasting monument of the abilities and genius of this untu-
tored architect.

About twelve miles beyond Pont y Prydd, after crossing the Car-
diff canal, the traveller arrives at

MERTHYR-TYDFIL.

The spot on which the town stands, and the immediate neighbourhood,
were the fortunate purchase of Mr. Crawshay, and cost only £800,
which in ground-rents alone has increased to more than the yearly
rent of £1000. The neighbouring hills are composed of little else
but coal and ore ; and the first person who discovered these mines and
determined to work them was a Mr. Bacon, formerly Member of
Parliament for Aylesbury, who had a lease granted him for ninety-
nine years at the low rent of £200 per annum, which gave him power
to extend his works as far as the mines extended in the surrounding
counties, but, from mismanagement or some unavoidable cause, he
succeeded so ill that the works were soon after entirely stopped. Not
long after this Mr. Bacon died, when his heirs let one part of this
district to Mr. Crawshay before-mentioned, for the yearly rent of
£5000 ; another part of this district is let to Mr. Homfray for £2000
per annum; and a third part to Messrs. Hill and Tate; and the
fourth and last part to Mr. Hill. Each of these gentlemen employ
several forges, which in their structure look like the gloomy castles of
former times, and give a very romantic appearance to the valley.
Scarcely any thing can be conceived more awfully grand than the
descent on a dark night into the vale of Merthyr from any of the
surrounding hills, where on a sudden the traveller beholds, as it were,
numberless volcanos breathing out their undulating pillars of flame

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 131

and smoke, while the furnaces below emit through every aperture
a, vivid light, which makes the whole country appear in flames ; nor
do the immense hammers, the wheels, the rolling mills, the water-
works, uniting together their various sounds, add a little to the
novelty of the scene. The number of workmen employed by the
different ironmasters is very great, so that the whole population of
this town exceeds ten thousand persons. Under the auspices of Mr.
Crawshay an over-shot wheel was constructed, then beyond com-
parison the largest in the world; it is about 50 feet in diameter, made
entirely of cast-iron, and cost above four thousand pounds. The
water that turns it is brought from a stream in the hills, about five
miles off, on a platform of wood, supported chiefly by stone pillars,
except in one place^, where it crosses a bridge on supporters of wood
for the space of three hundred yards, and elevated eighty feet above
the bed of the river, the whole of which has a very singular appear-
ance. The church is dedicated to Tydfil, a saint, and one of the
daughters of Brychan, who was slain here. The fairs are holden on
a mountain called The Waun, about a mile above the town. — Near
Gelli Maelog, about three miles north-east from hence, are the
remains of Morlas Castle, which formerly .commanded the whole
country around it.

On leaving Bridgend, which has already been described, in an
eastward direction, and at a short distance, is Ewenny or Wenny,
where was a cell founded by John Londres, Lord of Ogmore Castle,
and formerly belonging to Gloucester Abbey. The place appears to
have been founded about the year 1140, and at the dissolution was
valued at £87 per annum. The church (dedicated to St. Michael),
from the solidity of its structure, has not suffered from time so much
as might be supposed, as it is indisputably of greater antiquity than
any other building in Wales. — It is said to have been finished about
the year 1 100, or soon after the conquest of this county; the arches
are all circular, the columns short, round, and massive, with the
capitals simple but corresponding ; the tower is of a moderate height,
and supported by four fine arches, upwards of twenty feet in the chord
from their respective springs : the roof of the east end or choir is
original and entire, not diagonal, but formed of one stone arch from
wall to wall, with a kind of plain fascia, or bandage of stone, at
regular distances, crossing and strengthening the arch. Under this
roof, and against the north wall in the chancel, lies an ancient monu-
ment of stone, with an ornamental cross raised on it, and an inscrip-
tion pointing it out as the sepulchre of Maurice de Londres, grandson
to the founder, and a kinsman of Pain Tourberville, conqueror of
Glamorganshire, who has likewise a monument here. Two miles
eastward from this place is Penlline Castle, an ancient structure, but
by whom built is uncertain. Adjoining are the ruins of an old
mansion, not inhabited since the Revolution.

Dunawd

132 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Dunawd or Donat's Castle, is situate on a rock impending over
the sea shore. The castle is an irregular pile, bearing many marks
of ancient magnificence, and still in some degree inhabited ; but most
of the state apartments are in a very decayed condition. It was
defended by a ditch, and in some places by a triple wall ; it had also
a park well stocked with deer, and gardens with terraces to the water ;
these, although now neglected, exhibit a specimen of the stiff and
formal style of laying out grounds in the seventeenth century, consist-
ing of a series of hanging gardens or terraces, separated by stone
walls and connected by flights of steps, ascending gradually from the
shore to the mansion. The present building seems to have been
erected by the Stradlings about 1091, or the fifth year of William
Rufus, and was the family seat near 700 years ago ; but, on the
extinction of that family, it came to Bussey Mansell, Esq. in 1740.
The castle is a large turretted edifice, but void of taste, and built on
a very inelegant plan. Of the original structure little remains, and
what has been added since, at different periods, forms an irregular
whole, whose parts are dissimilar, unconnected, and every way dis-
pleasing. The greatest curiosities here are in the principal court,
which is of a polygonal shape and disproportionately low, and orna-
mented with a few small round recesses in the walls, having within
them the busts of the Roman Emperors and Empresses, which appear
to have been formerly sumptuously painted and gilt, The state
apartments are much ornamented, and contain several specimens of
heavy wood work, greatly in vogue during the reigns of Elizabeth
and James the First. The view from its principal room in the tower
is really magnificent, looking straight across the channel (which is
near twenty miles broad) to the hills of Somersetshire above Mine-
head. In the park are the ruins of a watch tower.

A few miles from St. Donat's Castle is Dyn'r-afon-House, or
Castle, situate on a headland jutting jnto the sea, and forming a point,
nine miles from Cowbridge. William de Londres gave this place to
one Butler, his servant, in whose family it continued for a long time,
and then became the property of William Vaughan, of whom it was
purchased by the Wyndhams. Many parts of the house have the
appearance of great antiquity, but built at different periods. Some
of the lodging rooms are made out of a Jarge chapel, and under one
of the outhouses is an arch, walled up, but supposed to be the ancient
burying place of the family of Londres. The entrance to the court is
through a rude gate, having over it a defaced coat of arms and other
ornaments.

Three miles from Penlline is Cowbridge, or Y Bont Faen, or Pont
Fon, or Pont Vaen, so called from the stone bridge over the river
which falls into the sea a little below. Cowbridge is seated in a low
bottom, but the soil is remarkably fertile ; the streets are broad and
paved ; it has a good market and a handsome church, and $ town hall

where

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 133

where the Quarter Sessions are held. The neighbourhood is remark-
able for a number of castles, and the town for an excellent grammar
school, where many literary characters were educated, particularly the
late Dr. Price, and others much celebrated in the republic of letters.
The school is at present well supported and in great repute. It was
endowed by Sir Llywelyn Jenkins, Secretary of State to James the
Second.

Three miles from Cowb ridge is Llangarfan, having its church
dedicated to St. Carfan. Here St. Carfan is said to have founded
a monastery about the year 500. Garadoc, who was cotemporary
with Geoffrey of Monmouth, was born at this place. His History
of Wales, or rather his Chronicle, from the abdication of Cad-
walader in the year 686 to the close of the 12th century, was trans-
lated into English by Humphrey Lhwyd, and published, with
additions, by Dr. David Powell, in quarto, 1684 ; by Wynne, 1697 ;
and subsequently, with a Description of Wales, by Sir John Price,
Knight; and has been continued to the present time by Richard
Llwyd, editor of this work. The abbey is said to have stood in a
meadow adjoining the village, called the Culvery. The chancel
window of the church measures eleven feet by twelve.

Morelay Castle, near Moreley brook, is situate in a very fruitful
valley for grass and corn. Amid the ruins of the castle was disco-
vered an entire room, circular, and about 30 feet in diameter, the
sides adorned with twelve flat arches for doors and windows, and the
roof supported by a central pillar, like the chapter house in Margam
abbey. This room, although one of the greatest curiosities in this
part of the country, is so buried in ruins as to leave scarcely any
appearance of it above ground. Llewelyn granted this castle to
Reginald de Bruce in 1217, who committed it to the care of Rhys
Vychan, but it was destroyed soon after by Llewelyn. It was in
ruins in Leland's time, and belonged to the King.

At t,he distance of eleven miles from Cowbridse is

CARDIFF, CAERDAF, OR CAERDTF,

so called froni its situation on the river Taf, which runs along the
west side of it, and falls into the sea three miles below the town. It
is handsome and well-built, inclosed by a stone wall (in which were
four gates) and a deep mound or ditch, with a watch-tower still to be
seen. There is a good bridge of five arches over the river, and
vessels of two hundred tons burden come up to the town. Between
the town and the sea is a fine tract of moor-land, which used to be
frequently overflowed by spring tides, and is now well secured by a
sea wall, which has turned an extensive piece of salt marsh into fresh
land. Three miles below the town is a harbour called Pennarth,
which is very commodious for ships and vessels detained in the Bristol
channel by westerly winds. The inhabitants of this town and neigh-
bourhood

134 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

bourhood carry on a considerable trade to Bristol, and send there
great quantities of oats, barley, salt butter, and poultry of all kinds,
besides exporting annually large quantities of cast and wrought-iron
for London and other places : the bulk of this is made at Merthyr-
Tydfil, and brought down from thence by a curious navigable canal,
the head of which, at Merthyr bridge, is 568 feet and 5 inches higher
than the tide lock at Cardiff: the length of the canal is twenty-five
miles, three furlongs, and three chains, brought through a moun-
tainous country with wonderful ingenuity. Tin plates are manufac-
tured at a place called Melin Griffith, four miles north of Cardiff.
Cardiff consists of two parishes, viz. St. John's and St. Mary's,
though at present there is but one church, for by a great inundation
of the sea, in 1607, the church of St. Mary, with many other buildings
in that parish, were undermined and swept away. What principally
engages the attention of the traveller is its ancient castle, which is a
large stately edifice on the north side of the town wall, and once a
very strong building, but which was almost in ruins, till lately repair-
ed and made habitable by its present possessor, the Marquis of Bute :
there are two gates to enter into it ; near one is a large white tower,
where the king's armory used to be kept : the dungeon is neat and
fair ; but the castle towards the east and south is plain, yet dyked
along the north, and defended on the west by the river Taf. The
walls at present are very extensive, and the keep, which still remains,
appears very ancient and originally strong. On the keep is a large
octagon tower, wherein it is said Robert Curthose was confined in
1106, by order of his brother, Henry the First. In the castle yard
several coins have been found, particularly a brass one, about Trajan's
reign, whence we may suppose it to have been of Roman origin.
The castle was taken by Maelgon and Rh$rs, with Llewelyn's forces,
in 1131, and afterwards by the Earl of Pembroke in 1233, for Henry
the Third. On the old walls is carried an high walk, which surrounds
the whole enclosure, and affords an extensive view from its ancient
tower or keep. In the reign of Charles the First Cardiff espoused
the cause of that injured King, and was besieged by Oliver Cromwell
in person, with a strong party, who bombarded the castle from an
entrenchment about a quarter of a mile west of the town. The can-
nonade was kept up for three days successively, and Oliver, in a book
of his own writing, called The Flagellum, says " he should have
found greater difficulty in subdiiing Cardiff castle, had it not been for
a deserter from the garrison, who conducted his party through a
subterraneous passage that went under the river Taf into the castle,
by which means they got possession of it, with little or no loss on
either side :" but, as soon as the garrison had marched out, Oliver
caused the deserter to be hung for his treachery. At this time the
castle and lordship of Cardiff belonged to the Earl of Pembroke, and
from that family, by intermarriages, it was vested, with many castlefe

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 135

and lordships in this county, in the Windsor family. In this town
Robert Earl of Gloucester, who died in 1147, founded a priory of
White Friars, and another of Black ones, which continued till the
general dissolution of religious houses by Henry the Eighth, in 1536.
A great part of the shell of the White Friars is now to be seen, and
the Black Friars house is inhabited by fishermen. Near Melyn
Gryffith is Castell Coch, consisting of a circular tower, and a few
intrenchments, on the brow of a perpendicular rock, supposed to have
been a fortress of the Britons, but by whom erected is uncertain.
Three leagues south of Cardiff are two islands, called the Flat and
Steep Holmes ; on the former is a light-house and a good dwelling,
where pilots frequently wait to conduct ships up the Bristol channel :
this island contains sixty acres of land, and is well cultivated. A
little to the westward of these are Sully and Barry Islands; the
former takes its name from Robert de Sully, who had it to his share
on the division of the country by the Normans : the other island is
named from Saint Baruch, who lies buried there, and as he gave name
to the place, so the place afterwards gave name to its proprietors. On
the western side of the isle, opposite the village, are the remains of an
ancient castle, and also two old chapels ; and towards the south, on a
spot called Nell's Point, is a fine well, to which great numbers of
women resort on Holy Thursday, and having washed their eyes, each
drops a pin into it. Giraldus says, ff In a rock of this island there is
a narrow chink or cleft, to which if you put your ear, a noise is heard
similar to smiths at work, sometimes you hear the blowing of a bel-
lows, at other times the strokes of the hammers, grinding of tools, or
the hissing noise of steel goods, fire burning in furnaces, &c." These
sounds were probably occasioned by the repercussion of the sea in
these chinks : but Giraldus mentions the same being heard at low
and full tide. Humphrey Lhwyd, who visited this island, made
particular enquiries relative to this fact, and consulted several of the
neighbours, all of whom denied its existence in any form. Bishop
Gibson says, such a circumstance did happen in Camden's time.
On a gentle elevation about two miles north-west from Cardiff, is

LLANDAF,

i. e. " the Church upon the Taf," the houses of which are not very
handsome, except a few gentlemen's houses that have been built of
late years. A bishopric was, however, first erected here in the time
of Saint Dubricius, whose death is commonly placed in the year 522,
though some place it near one hundred years later. Llandaf was at
first possessed of a large revenue, but was much reduced at the con-
quest, and the church destroyed. The present church was built by
Bishop Urban in 1220, and dedicated to St. Peter, St. Dubricius,
St. Teilo, and St. Odoceus. It consisted of two towers at the west
end, eighty-nine feet high, of which that on the south only remains

entire

136 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

entire, and two of its pinnacles were thrown down by the storm in
1703. The North tower, now 105 feet high, was pulled down and
rebuilt in an elegant manner in the reign of Henry the Seventh, but
the pinnacles and battlements were destroyed in the storm before-
mentioned. The body of the cathedral has been rebuilt, and is in
length from east to west 263 feet ; the distance from the west door to
the choir is 110, and the length from the latter to the altar 75 feet,
the body of the church 65, ancl the height from the floor to the top of
the compass work of the roof the same. The choir is very neat, but
there is no cross aisle, although common to almost every other cathe-
dral in England and Wales. The remains of the old cathedral are
very beautiful ; the door cases are all Norman work, richly moulded ;
the rest is elegant gothic, but the naye is unroofed : the remaining
part, on which great sums have beeji expended, is made up of Roman
and Gothic, and the portico of a heathen temple projects over the
altar. The north-west tower was re-built by Jasper Earl of Bedford,
in the time of Henry the Fifth ; the west windows are lancets, over
which there is a statue of Henry the First ; and over the door one of
Dubricius: the naye and aisle contain many beautiful monuments.
The whole fabric is said to have suffered considerably in the rebellion
of Owen Glyndwr. The annual value pf the Bishopric in the Liber
Regis seems only £154. 14s. 2d. though the real revenue is estimated
at £1600. The preceding is an accurate delineation of the ancient
cathedral ; but the modern church should be noticed separately, being
singularly situated^ and formed mostly with tjie walls of the old
cathedral, and so closely incorporated in many places, that it would
be difficult to distinguish the one from the other, if the architecture
had been similar : but the modern church seems to be a compound of
absurdities, having the gothic of ancient building ridiculously contrast-
ed with the Venetian windows, Ionic pillars, and every impropriety of
the Grecian style. In the midst of these defects in architecture, the
neatness in which the church is kept, particularly the great care
apparently taken of the numerous remains of antiquity that are to be
found in this ancient edifice, is admirable. There is no residence
here for the bishop.

About five miles from Llandaff is

CAERPHILLI, OR SENGHENYDD,

which latter name is derived from Cenydd, a saint who lived about the
middle of the sixth century. It is situate among a row of hills that
run through the middle of Glamorganshire towards Brecknockshire.
The town is neat and clean, with many respectable houses ; but the
castle is the chief building, and probably one of the most noble
remains of antiquity in the kingdom, situate over a small stream
which runs into the Rumney. It consists of one large oblong court,
with an entrance by a gateway, and two round towers from east to

west :

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 137

west ; on the north is a dead wall, with loop holes, and on the south
a magnificent hall ; at each angle was a round tower of four stories,
communicating with others by a gallery in the second story. The
south-east tower, from its singular situation, is supposed to exceed
any thing of the kind to be found elsewhere : it stands eleven feet out
of perpendicular, resting only on one part of its south side, although
seventy or eighty feet in height, and was probably so removed from
its place by gunpowder in the Civil Wars. The hall is a stately
room, about 70 feet by 30, and 17 feet high, the roof of which is
vaulted, and supported by twenty arches : on the same side are two
stately windows, continuing down to the floor, and reaching above
the supposed roof of the room : the sides are ornamented with trefoils
and other devices common to buildings of the fourteenth century : on
the side walls of the room are seven clusters of round pilasters, about
four feet long, each supported by three busts, varied alternately. Jn
the south, at equal distances, are six grooves, about nine inches wide,
and eight high, intended as places for something, of which no vestige
remains: the doors are placed on the east end, eight feet high,
opening into a court or castle yard, which is 70 yards by 40, with
another on the south side ; on the east are two more, low arched, and
within a yard of each other : the inner building, or main body of the
castle, is entirely surrounded by an immense stone wall, supported by
strong buttresses, and defended by square towers, communicating
with each other by an embattled gallery, and over it a pleasant walk.
In the eastern gate of the castle are two hexagonal towers, and at the
right angle within this gate is a square tower, with three vacuities for
portcullises, &c. Between the outer wall and the moat were the
offices ; the mill-house is still remaining ; and without the walls of the
castle are many moats and intrenchments, uniform with the bastions
at the angles. The origin of this noble fabric cannot be traced to any
probable source, although many conjectures have been made about
it : some are inclined to think it Roman, others Saxon, and others
British ; but the coins of none of these nations have been found to
confirm either hypothesis. Some Flemish pieces were discovered,
with the image of our Saviour, and about the same time coins re-
sembling Venetian, with a brass one like those of the middle ages,
but without a syllable of inscription to assist conjecture in endeavour-
ing to elucidate the origin of one of the largest buildings in Britain.
The castle formerly belonged to the Clares Earls of Gloucester, then
to the Earls of Pembroke, and afterwards became the property of
Lord Mount-Stuart, in right of his wife, the heiress of Lord Windsor.
On a mountain called Cefn Gelli Gaer, near the castle, on the road to
Marchnadywayn, is a remarkable monument, known by the name of
Y-Maen-hir, consisting of a rude stone pillar of a quadrangular form,
and eight feet high, with an inscription inserted in Camden (p. 616),
in the area or bed of which he supposes a person has been interred,

and

138 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

and that the inscription on the pillar must be read Tefro-i-ti, or
Defro-i-ti, which is Welsh, and signifies, " Mayest thou awake." —
Close to the bottom is a small intrenchment.

In the chancel of the parish church of Llan-Tryddyd is a grand and
superbly ornamented monument, erected in the early part of the reign
of Queen Elizabeth, and on which are the recumbent figures of a
knight and his lady, as large as life, in the attitude of prayer ; and in
the churchyard is a remarkable yew tree, which girths 26 feet at the
height of 6 feet from the ground, and which, near the root, is not
much less than 40 feet in circumference. Tradition says Llan-
Tryddyd House, the seat of Sir John Aubrey, was an asylum to many
great and learned men of the church of England, during the Pro-
tectorate ; and that academical degrees were conferred there.

Aber-Dar hath its church dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The
Rev. Edward Evan, an eminent dissenting preacher, philosopher, and
poet, was a native of this place, and was one of the few, who, accord-
ing to Mr. Owen, being initiated into the bardic mysteries, had helped
to preserve the institution to the present time. He died on the 21st
June, 1 789, being the day fixed for him to meet the other bards of
the chair of Glamorgan. levan Ddu ap Dafydd ap Owain, an
eminent poet, was also a native of Aber-Dar, and flourished from
about the year 1440 to 1480. He was a gentleman of large estate,
and a great patron of the bards, whose various acts are still tradition-
ally told in the neighbourhood where he resided.

Saint Andrew's is situate near the Bristol channel ; here are the
remains of an ancient ,castle, palled Dinas Powys Castle, formerly the
property of Lord Brooke.

Bishopston or Llan-deilo Ferwalt, hath its church dedicated to St.
Teilo, one of the most celebrated Saints of the British church, who
lived in the latter part of the fifth and beginning of the sixth centuries.
The adjacent chapel of Caswell is in ruins. There is a lead mine in
a valley in this parish, called All Slade, about a quarter of a mile
from the sea shore : this mine was re-opened some few years ago, and
some tons of ore of a good quality were raised from it; but it was
again dropped, either for want of capital or spirit in the adventurers.
Several implements of the ancient miners were discovered upon re-
opening it, which occasioned an idea that they perished in the mine,
but no remains of them were found. In the rocks here is an extra-
ordinary spring, that is covered at high water, but which, when the
tide has quite left it, retains not the smallest taste of the salt water.
It is frequently the resort of parties of pleasure from Swansea; from
which it is four miles distant.

St. Bride's Major. — Here is an immense spring, which issues out of
a rock, at the extremity of the parish, and the waters of which are
much esteemed. This place is situated near the Bristol channel.
Robert Thomas, the poet, was a native of St. Bride's Major, and
flourished from about the year 1 700 to 1 750.

Kenfig,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 139

Kenfig, Cynfig, or Cefn y Figen, hath its church dedicated to St.
Mary Magdalen. It is a corporate town ; a town hall was lately
erected here, which cost £400. The borough is a lordship of itself,
belonging to Thomas Mansell Talbot, Esq. with a super-lordship
over North Cornelly, South Cornelly, and Searfawr. The name
appears to be derived from Cefn, "a rising ground," and Figen,
" a bog;" which bog has been, for time immemorial, a lake, about
two miles in circumference, and which abounds with pike of a large
size. Kenfig contains about 800 acres of warren and sand banks :
tradition informs us, that the old town, castle, and church, were
inundated on the. occasion of a great storm, leaving the buildings
overwhelmed by the sands, and evident marks of this calamitous event
are visible, and prove the circumstance beyond contradiction.
Previous to this, Kenfig was a place of great note and consideration,
the high road then passing through it, which was afterwards diverted
through Pyle. The remains of the castle appear about 15 feet above
the top of the sand at this time, with the vestiges of a moat at the
distance of 100 yards from it, and surrounding it, except on the river
side, which runs at present about 20 yards to the North of it, and
from thence empties itself into the Bristol channel. About 300 yards
from the castle to the South, are the remains of the ancient church
and burying place, as a great quantity of human bones are often
discernible by the drifting of the sand. This storm, which has given
a new and desolated aspect to a great district of country, happened
during the last year of the reign of Edward the Sixth, or immediately
on the accession of Queen Mary, in the first year of whose reign, in
the year 1554, " An Act, touching the sea sands in Glamorganshire,"
was passed ; wherein an act of the 23d of Henry the Eighth is
recited, which provides for commissions of sewers, and that the said
act does not extend to reform the damage done by reason of sand
arising out of the sea and driven to land by storms and winds,
whereby much good ground, lying on the sea-coasts in sundry places
of this realm, and especially in the county of Glamorgan, is covered
with such sand to the great loss of the Queen's subjects, and more is
like to ensue if speedy remedy be not provided : and it enacts, that
the said act of sewers and commissions shall give full power to the
redress and securing of the said grounds from hurt and destruction by
reason of the said sands. Empowered by this act, a commission was
holden, as appears by a paper now extant in Mr. Talbot's possession,
to re-ascertain the boundaries between Cynfig and Skeir, which had
been so overwhelmed with sand as to leave no trace of the ancient
limits. Skeir is a large extra-parochial farm, adjoining the South-
east side of the parish of Cynfig, formerly appertaining to the abbey
of Neath, but now, by purchase, the property of Mr. Talbot. Since
this inundating devastation, the Arundo Arenaria has been planted
in these sand banks, in order to bind and fix them, as it does on those

of

140 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of Holland ; and every tenant who rents in the moor adjoining
covenants in his lease to give yearly the labour of a day or more, in
proportion to his land, for the planting of this rush, and experience
has proved its good effects. These sand banks are all rabbit warrens,
and afford a fine ride, during low water, of about 12 miles, from Skeir
rocks to Briton ferry. We are informed, by history, that the castle
of Kenfig was inhabited by lestyn ab Gwrgant for some time ; it was
afterwards, by right of conquest, seized by Robert Fitzhamon, and
from him it descended to his heiress, Mabel, the wife of Robert, Earl
of Gloucester, who endowed the abbey of Margam with large
possessions. We cannot find the date of the first charter ; but the
first confirmation of the original grant was made by Thomas le
Despenser and his daughter Isabel, this is dated on the 14th May,
1360; a second confirmation is dated on the 16th February, 1396;
and a third on the 1st of May, 1423. Henry, who was promoted to
the see of Llandaff in the year 1 199, and, who died in the year 1218,
gave his confirmation and grant of the church of Kenfig, with its
appurtenances, to the abbey of Margam, on the petition of Walter
Abbot, of Tewkesbury ; but how the presentation was alienated from
the Margam family and devolved to the crown, we are unable to trace,
the archives of the church of Llandaflf having, some years since, been
destroyed by fire.

Eglwys Ilan, hath its church dedicated to Elian, a saint who
lived at the close of the fifth century. In this parish is Taf Well,
which is esteemed benficial in rheumatic complaints. Here is the
celebrated new bridge over the river Taf, before mentioned as having
been built by William Edwards, who was a native of this parish, and
who lies buried in the church-yard. This parish abounds with mines
and fine quarries of stone.

St. Fagan's. — There was a great battle fought here in 1648, in
which the republicans were victorious. The river Elay runs through
the parish, and affords plenty offish ; and being situate on the lime-
stone, it has plenty of good water, esteemed as nearly equal to the
medicinal hot-wells. On the 5th of July, 1808, the inhabitants were
visited by a great storm of rain and hail, accompanied with thunder :
a ball of fire made a hole in the garden of the Rev. W. B. M. Lisle,
LL.D. the rector, and broke nearly two thousand panes of glass in
the hot houses, the hail stones were so large as to make holes, in
many instances, without breaking the pane, like a pistol ball. The
wateV was several feet deep in the village, and scarcely a person was
dry in their beds out of the rectory. The name of this parish is
derived from a Saint, who first preached Christianity here.

Flemingston, hath its church dedicated to Saint Michael. This
village derives its name from the family of Fleming, who possessed
the castle and lordship of St. George's under Robert Fitzhamon.
There are still some remains of a castle, adjoining the churchyard, a
part whereof is now used for purposes connected with husbandry.

Gclli-Gaer,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 141

Gelli-Gaer, hath its church dedicated to Saint Cadog. The name
implies " a military station embosomed with wood ;" the site of an
oblong square building is still discernable in fields near the present
church and rectory house ; and fragments of broken bricks, of
superior texture, are scattered in the walls and enclosures about the
vestigium of the old camp. In former times it might have been an
important outpost to check incursions from the Mountains, and to
defend the edifice of Caerphilly castle, from which it is distant about
seven miles, and which is still majestic, though in ruins. A redoubt,
formed of earth and stone, with a fountain at its base, is now entire,
and commands an avenue that leads to the village, which now consists
of a few detached farm houses and cottages. The country is open
and healthy, and though the situation of the village is upland, and the
whole parish hilly, yet it is pleasant, and the chain of gradually
ascending hills and mountains that surround it, render the scenery
particularly grand. It is almost insulated by rivers or rivulets from
other parishes. The river Rhymny divides it from the county of
Monmouth and part of Brecknock to the north-east and east ; the
rivers and rivulets of Bargoed, Taf, and Clydach divide it from the
parish of Merthyr Tydfil for the most part to the west, and to the
south from Llan-Fabon parish. It is skirted mostly with wood, and
fortified in many places with high and prominent rocks ; and it con-
tains coal and iron ore.^Brithdir, a chapel of ease in this parish, is
now entire, and divine service is performed therein every fortnight.

Llan Deilo Tal y Bont hath its church dedicated to Saint Teilo.
This parish abounds with coal, and is situate on the river Lloughor.
The ancient monastery of Court y Carne, now in ruins, to which
belonged a manor and a mill, was appendant to the abbey of Ca-
doxton.

Llan-Doch hath its church dedicated to Saint Dochdwy, one of the
saints who accompanied Cadfan into Wales, in the beginning of the
sixth century. The castle of Llandough, a seat of Thomas Mansell
Talbot, Esq. leased by him to John Price, Esq. who has greatly
improved it, stands on the site of the ancient castle of Walche : one
tower is all which remains of that edifice. The Rev. John Walters,
A. M. an eminent Welsh divine and critic, was rector of this parish,
and died in the year 1797. His chief labour was the compilation of
a valuable English and Welsh Lexicon, which he published in one
large quarto volume in 1794. — He also wrote a Dissertation on the
Welsh Language.

Llan-Dyfodwg hath its church dedicated to Tyfodwg, a saint
who lived in the latter part of the fifth and beginning of the sixth
centuries. A small market was formerly holden in this parish, at a
place called Celli'r Fid, or " the Battle Grove," but when established
is not known : it existed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, but appears
to have been soon afterwards discontinued. One or two fairs were

also

142 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

also holden annually, but they have been so long disused, that the
days whereon they were held are not now remembered with certainty.
The soil of this parish is various, but the worst is capable" of improve-
ment. There are some excellent and powerful chalybeate springs,
though but little noticed, which flow from the veins of iron ore and
coal which abound here. This parish constitutes part of the Duchy
of Lancaster, and its inhabitants, as tenants of the crown, are toll-free
in all markets and fairs in the kingdom, excepting those held in the
limits of the two Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. There are
some remarkable caverns at a place called Craig Dinberth, which are
supposed by some persons to have been Roman mine-works, or those
of the ancient Welsh, before the art of blasting rocks with gunpowder
was known. Others suppose them natural caverns, and some imagine
that they were formed for the purpose of secreting persons or property
during the ancient bloody feuds of the principality. Some remains
of very old and clumsy oaken chests have been discovered therein,
and which, on being brought into the open air, soon mouldered into
dust. — These caverns are entered by deep shafts downwards.

Llan-Edeyrn hath its church dedicated to Saint Edeyrn, a bard
who flourished about the middle of the seventh century, and who
embraced a religious life, and had a church at Bod- Edeyrn, in Angle-
sea. It is situate on the banks of the river Rhymnv. According to
Mr. Owen, St. Edeyrn established a Christian society of three hun-
dred in number here, which afterwards came to be called by his name.

Llan-Ganna. — The church of this parish is dedicated to Canna, a
saint, the mother of Crallo. The soil is good, on a sub-stratum of
lime -stone. It has been enclosed from a very remote and unknown
period, and is so described in manorial surveys and title deeds so far
back as the end of the thirteenth century. At the west end of the
church is a very ancient stone cross, of a description pretty frequently
met with in Wales, and which are, from their inscriptions, known to
be of the fourth and fifth centuries : in some parts of the kingdom
they are called, oddly enough, " Catharine- Wheel Crosses." Before
the church stands a fine cross of gothic sculpture, of a period much
later than the preceding one, seemingly of the thirteenth or fourteenth
century : it is one of the very few crosses of the kind that remain
undemolished. The pedestal is ascended on all sides by four steps,
whence arises a slender shaft, of about seven feet in height, on the
top of which are elegantly sculptured the stories of the Nativity,
Baptism, Transfiguration, Last Supper, Crucifixion, Resurrection,
and Ascension, in fine and durable free- stone. The cross is not much
injured by time, nor by the fanatical fury of the Cromwellian period ;
when, as tradition says, almost all those old crosses, the fine specimens
of ancient taste and art, were demolished in this county, from motives
of false and outrageous piety. There are lead-mines worked to con-
siderable advantage in this parish.

Llan-Gefelach

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 143

Llan Gefelach hath its church dedicated to Saint Gefelach. The
Lord Bishop of Saint David's, as Dean of the College of Brecknock,
is lord of the manor, and holds two courts here annually.

Llan Genydd. — The church of this parish is dedicated to
Cenydd, a saint who lived about the middle of the sixth century. It
is situate on the Bristol channel. The church, which is a large
structure, displays evident marks of consequence; there are the
appearances of two staircases on the right and left of the entrance
into the chancel, in which there are several ancient monuments. The
rectorial or glebe house is called by the name of The College, either
from the circumstance, it is supposed, of its belonging to All Soul's
College, or from its being the site of the ancient residence of Saint
Cenydd, who established a congregation here. Roger de Bellamont,
Earl of Warwick, is said to have conquered Gowerland, in Wales,
and to have thereupon founded a priory here in the reign of King
Stephen, and to have annexed it to the abbey of Saint Taurinus, at
Evreux> in Normandy. It was dedicated to Saint Kenedd; and
being seized as an alien priory, was granted, by King Henry the
Sixth, in 1441, to All Souls' College, in Oxford.

Llan Haran.— ^-Llywelyn o Llangewydd, or Llywelyn Sion, an
eminent poet of Glamorganshire, is distinguished, according to Mr.
Owen, for having been appointed to collect the system of bardism, as
traditionally preserved in the Gorsedd Morganwg, in which he
presided in 1580. He fulfilled his commission with great industry
and fidelity ; and the result of his labours was submitted to subsequent
meetings of the bards, and Edward Davydd was authorized to make
some additions. The collections thus made are preserved in the
possession of Mr. Turberville, of Llan Haran. Llywelyn died in the
year 1616. Rhys Llwyd ap Rhys ap Rhisiart, an eminent poet also,
was a native of this place, and flourished between the years 1420 and
1460.

Llan Illtwrn.-^The chapel of this place is dedicated to St. Illtyd ;
the remains of the monastery formerly standing here are now a barn.
This chapelry is supposed to have been separated from the parish of
Saint Pagan's about the reign of Queen Elizabeth : it has a register,
and chooses its warden, and makes its own rates, but pays to the
repairs of St. Pagan's church aVid bridge; and when the rate for*
them is made, it pays the third penny. Saint Iltutus founded a
monastery here in the year 508, and made it a place for education in
human learning as well as religion, so that many worthy men are said
to have been brought up here.

Llan Illtyd Fawr hath its church dedicated to Saint Illtyd, con-
solidated with the vicarages of Llys-Werni and Pen March. The
Rev. Robert Nicholl, A. M. of Dimland House, chaplain to the
Marquis of Bute, says fe Lantwit Major is a large, populous village>
or rather a dilapidated town, within a mile and half of the Bristol

E e channel.

144 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

channel. It is situated in a pleasant, healthy country, upon a strata
of blue lime stone, covered by a rich clayey mould, and is surrounded
by some of the finest pasturage and the best tillage land in South
Wales. The church, a large pile of building, is, with few exceptions,
the most ancient in Great Britain, having been built about the year
508. The vicarage is of no great value, some of the vicarial tithes
having been taken from it : its revenues were, however, once very
considerable, and supported not only the monastery with which it was
connected, but also the establishment of a great seminary of learning.
It appears from Tanner's Notitia, that Fitzhamon removed the
monastery of Llantwit to Tewkesbury, in the county of Gloucester,
and that when that abbey was dissolved, King Henry the Eighth
annexed its revenues to the see of Gloucester. Thus it happened,
that the impropriate tithes of Llantwit belong to the Dean and
Chapter of that cathedral. Near this place (and most probably at
Boverton, a village about a mile distant to the south-east) was the
Bovium of Antoninus, a Roman station, through which the great road,
called the Julia Strata, passed in the reign of the Emperor Vespasian.
In this neighbourhood many Roman coins have been discovered ; and
especially on the 2d of November, 1798, in a field between Eglwys
Brewis and Saint Athan, by the servants of Mr. William Davies,
while they were filling their carts with earth ; the coins lay in the
ground promiscuously, about 18 inches deep ; and 30 of them, of fine
silver, were in high relief and excellent preservation. A further
proof of the antiquity of Boverton is, that the king of the country,
according to the Liber Llandavensis, resided and kept his court there,
in the latter end of the fifth century, before Saint Illtyd first visited
Britain : and though this village is far inferior to Llantwit in extent
and population, yet Boverton, in all ancient writings, has obtained the
pre-eminence, and gives a title to the manor, which is styled to this
day in the Manorial Court Rolls, " The Lordship of Boviarton and
Llantwit." About a mile and a half from the village of Boverton, by
the sea coast, are two Roman camps ; one of them, upon the eastern
cliff which defends one side of Colhugh valley, is known by the name
of the Castle Ditches : it is a strong situation, being accessible on one
side only ; the other encampment, about two miles from hence, is also
upon the sea coast, and about the same distance from Boverton.
That Llantwit received its name from Saint Illtyd is universally
admitted; and that it continued to flourish many years after him
there can be no doubt. The many broad and direct roads, leading
towards Llantwit Major, which, like the radii of a wheel, terminate
and concentrate there — the numerous streets and lanes, which are still
to be seen intersecting each other, like those of our large cities, and
still retaining their ancient names — the extraordinary size of its
church, and the churchyard surrounding it — and the number of human
skulls, which, from time to time, have been dug. up in the gardens

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 145

and fields adjoining, when fresh land has been broken up for the pur-
pose of tillage — prove it to have been a place of much consequence,
and of great population : and history and tradition bear testimony to
the fact. The townhall still remains, where justice was formerly
administered. The gaol was demolished only a very few years ago :
but the name of " The Gallows-way" is still retained,, in the road
where executions were usually conducted, and where skeletons have
from time to time been discovered. It formerly traded with the
Somersetshire coast, and the dialect of that county was prevalent here
within the memory of man : for, near this place, is the ancient port of
Colhugh, formerly Colhow, where vessels came in for protection in the
reign of King Henry the Eighth. But so great are the changes
which time has produced upon this coast, that Colhugh is now
avoided by mariners, as Scylla and Charybdis were by the Trojan '
fleet. However, the ancient remains of the harbour may yet be
traced, although the sea has made such vast incroachments here ; the
foundation of the pier, and the piles of wood which formed its defence
on the western side, being still visible at low water. The seminary
at Llantwit flourished so much under the care and protection of Saint
Illtyd, that scholars flocked to him from every quarter, and most of
the British nobility and sons of foreign princes received their educa-
tion here ; his pupils are said to have exceeded 2000 in number, who
had four hundred houses and seven halls ; and many of them made a
figure in the world, but particularly Gildas the Historian ; David,
who removed the episcopal see from Caerleon to Saint David's, in the
county of Pembroke ; Paulinos, or Paul bishop of Leon, in Spain;
Sampson, successor to Saint David, and afterwards archbishop of
Dol in Britany ; Talhaiarn, a celebrated bard and a distinguished
saint ; and also the famous Taliesin ; all of whom received their
education here. The ruins and remains of the school-house are to be
seen to this day in a garden on the north side of the churchyard ; and
the monastery, halls, and buildings thereto belonging, stood in a field
upon what is termed the l( Hill-head," on the north side of the tithe
barn. The chantry-house (now converted into a barn) is situate in
the churchyard, nearly opposite to the church porch; and there are
the remains of several ancient buildings still visible in several parts of
the town. The ascent to the townhall, which is still perfect, is by
two flights of steps, and the room above is very spacious : the upper
part is raised above the lower, like the halls in our universities ; and
a table ran from wall to wall, having seats all round, which were in
good preservation a few years ago ; over the townhall is a bell upon
which the clock strikes, said to have been presented to St. Illtyd, by
one of the Roman Pontiffs, and concerning which Holinshed, in Ms
Chronicles, has given us a superstitious story. The house belonging
to the rectorial tithes, which were severed from this monastery by
Robert Fitzhamon, is still a respectable building, having hanging

E e 2 gardens

146 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

gardens descending towards the church : there are within it several
spacious rooms, which have usually been occupied by the parish
school-master, and are capable of containing several hundred persons.
There are two churches at Llantwit Major, contiguous to each other,
being separated by the belfry and tower, containing six harmonious
bells, which for sweetness of tone are scarcely surpassed. The most
western building, or old church, is said to have been deserted on
account of its damp situation ; but, as the situation does not, upon
examination, appear objectionable in this respect, the new church
must have been erected from some other cause. Below the old church
is an ancient building, called " The Lady's Chapel," which is now
almost entirely dilapidated: a door opened into it from the old
church, and there were some figures or busts of saints to be seen
against the walls, a few years ago ; but latterly a great part of the
walls have tumbled in. The new church contains three aisles, it has
a handsome altar-piece, and is capable of holding a very large con-
gregation. In Bishop Gibson's edition of Camden's Britannia, is a
description of two curious monuments on the north side of the church.
There are also in the middle of the old church two curious monu-
mental stones, lying side by side, and touching each other, and
which, according to tradition, were brought hither about the year
1730, by a Mr. Thomas Morgan, who was school-master and parish-
clerk here at that time, from a place called " The Great House,"
where it is said a church formerly stood. In the vestry (a room
behind the altar) there is a gigantic figure of a man, in the dress of
Henry the Eighth's reign, with an inscription describing it as the
statue of Richard Hopkins ; it is of a whitish kind of free-stone, like
that which is dug up near the river side at Bridgend, in this county ;
it is a laboured piece, and well finished, but is imperfect at the
bottom. Of all these monuments there is a further description, ac-
companied with plates, in the Archaiologia, vol. vi. p. 22, et seq.—
Near Hopkiros's statue is the bust of a child, cut in high relief; and
near the altar is another rude figure of a person kneeling, and much
in the same dress as Hopkins. This figure has two small columns,
one on each side of it, and just fits a niche, where seemingly was also
a bason for the holy water, but which is now covered over with lime.
In the churchyard, on the south side of the church near the lower
door, is a stone which lies flat on the ground ; this appears to have
been part of an ancient cross, its length being six feet ; it is also said
to have been brought hither by Mr. Thomas Morgan from fc The
Great House," and is likewise described in the Archaiologia.
Another stone rudely worked, but without any letters upon it, lies by
the south door of the church, on the left hand side as you enter. It
is about four feet long, and has four sides, which are nearly parallel,
and of equal dimensions. I shall now conclude this account of the
antiquities of Llantwit Major with a description of a very curious

monumental

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 147

monumental cross hitherto unnoticed by any antiquary, it having been
but lately discovered, after lying for ages under ground. It was not
visible when the learned Mr. Lhuyd wrote his continuation of Cam-
den's Britannia, and, perhaps, would have remained so to the end of
time, had it not been for the exertions of Mr. Edward Williams (the
self-taught genius and antiquary of Wales), who, led by traditional
history, undertook the arduous task of raising this immense stone,
which, with the help of twelve strong men, he accomplished, taking
it up out of the earth, and erecting it against the wall of the church
porch, in the place where it originally stood, on the 30th of August,
1793. But it may not be improper to give his own account of this
discovery, and of the circumstance which led to it, since it affords a
proof, among many others, that traditional history is not to be dis-
credited, when it contains nothing improbable, or that is not repug-
nant to common sense.—" In the summer of 1789, 1 dug out of the
ground in Llantwit churchyard a large monumental stone ; it is the
shaft of a cross ; and its history affords a remarkable instance of the
fidelity of popular tradition. About forty years ago, one Richard
Purton, then living at Llan-Maes juxta Llantwit, though only a
shoemaker, was more intelligent than most of his class. He had read
more history than many, was something of an antiquary, and had
stored his memory with a number of interesting popular traditions.
I was then about twelve or fourteen years of age, and, like him, fond
of history and antiquities. He one day shewed me a spot on the east
side of the porch of the old church at Llantwit, where he said a large
monumental stone lay buried in the ground, with an inscription on it
to the memory of two kings. The tradition of the accident, which
buried it in the ground, he gave as follows. Long before the memory
of the oldest person he ever knew (for the knowledge of it was only
traditionary) there was a young man at Llantwit, called (c Will the
Giant." He, at seventeen years of age, was seven feet seven inches
high, but, as is usual in premature and supernatural growth, he fell
into a decline, of which he died. He had expressed a desire to be
buried near the monumental stone which stood by the church porch ;
his wish was complied with ; the grave was dug much larger than
graves usually are, so that one end of it extended to the foot of the
stone that was fixed in the ground. Just as the corpse had been laid
in the ground, the stone gave way, and fell into the grave. Some
had a narrow escape for their lives. But, as the stone was so large as
not to be easily removed, it was left there covered over with earth.
After I heard this traditional account, I had a great desire to dig for
this stone, and many times endeavoured to engage the attention of
several, and their assistance, but my idea was always treated with
ridicule. In the year 1789, being at work in Llantwit church, and
being one day unable to go on with business (a stone cutter by trade)
for want of assistance, it being the very height of corn harvest, and not

a man

148

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

a man to be found, I employed a great part of the day in digging in
search of this stone, and found it. I cleared away all the earth about
it. Christopher Wilkins and the late Mr. David Jones (two very
respectable farmers), on seing this stone, ordered their men to assist
me ; and we, with great difficulty, got it out of the ground, and on it
we found the following inscription : —

In nomine Dei summi incipit crux Salvatoris, qua? preparavit
Samsoni Apati (-/. e. Abbati), pro anima sua et pro anima Juthahelo
Rex et Artmali. Tegat crux me.

THUS TRANSLATED.

In the name of the most high God, the cross of our Saviour begins,
which the king has erected to the memory of Sampson the Abbot,
and to Juthahel and Artmael, for the sake of their souls. May the
cross protect me."

It appears from the old register at Llandaff, that Juthahel King of
Glamorgan, and Artmael King of Gwent (Monmouthshire), bestowed
lands and privileges very liberally on the churches of St. Illtyd.

The dimensions of this stone are as follow: height nine feet;
breadth one foot seven inches at the top, and two feet four inches at
the bottom ; thickness one foot three inches ; it is of durable silicious
free-stone.

It lay on the ground where it had been raised out of the grave till
the 28th of August, 1793, when I found assistance to erect it against
the east side of the church porch, where it now stands. It must have
been buried in the ground before the continuator of Camden took a
copy of the inscriptions on Saint Illtyd's monument, &c. otherwise he
would certainly have copied this also ; as he would have done the old
stone, placed by Mr. Thomas Morgan before the church, had it then
been there."

Llan Isan hath its church dedicated to Isan, a saint who lived in
the middle of the seventh century. There is nothing of note here
except St. Denis's Well, which is esteemed efficacious in scorbutic
complaints.

. Llan Maes. — The church of tliis parish is dedicated to St. Cadog.
It is situated in the most fertile part of the vale of Glamorgan, and a
rivulet passes by the churchyard, which discharges itself into the
Bristol channel, three miles from hence ; there are the ruins of an old
castle, which belonged to the Malifants ; and the manor, which now
belongs to the Marquis of Bute, is termed in the ancient court rolls
the manor of Bedford and Malifant. The place was formerly remark-
able for the longevity of its inhabitants, and in the ancient register of
the parish there are several entries of persons being buried upwards
of 100 years of age : but the following is remarkable, it is copied
verbatim-^" Ivan Yorath, buried a Saterdaye, the XII day of July,
anno domini 1621, et anno regni regis vicesimo primo anno que
aetatis circa 180. — He was a sowdiar in the fights of Boswoorthe,

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 140

and lived at Lantwit Major, and he lived muche by fishing." Leland,
in his Itinerary, says — " There is a castelle almost standing on an
even grounde, half a mile from Llaniltute by Est North Est, caullid
Llaniiais ; it is almost al doun ; it longgith now to the king ; it was
in hominum memoria the Male-infauntes, ther communely caullid the
Malifauntes. There cummith a litle bekke within a stone caste of the
castelle, and rennith on the west side of it : it risith, by gesse, halfe a
mile by North West above the castelle of Llaniiays, and, passing by
this castelle, it goith into Colhow water by likelihood." Near Llan-
maes village are the vestiges of a Roman camp.

Llan Rhidian hath its church dedicated to St. Rhidian. This
church was formerly attached to the abbey of Neath : here are two
mineral springs ; that, which is on the low lands, near the church, is
esteemed efficacious in scorbutic cases ; the other, on Cefn Bryn,
called Holy Well, is deemed serviceable in strengthening the eyes.
There are some curious subterranean caverns in the limestone rocks
here : and a stream of water, which, rushing from its concealed
source with great impetuosity, at the foot of a hill near the church,
turns two mills within the distance of 200 yards only from its first
appearance. On a hill, near the village, called CH 1 for Hill, there
are vestiges of an intrenched camp, supposed to have been thrown up
by Ifor ap Cedifor, a chieftain of Glamorgan, in his wars with the
English in the year 11.10. Here are some good freestone quarries.
Near the western extremity of this parish is situated the castle of
Weobley, a considerable part of which remains, and part of it is
converted into a farm house : it appears to have been of great strength
and extent, it stands on an eminence, having a fine view of the
navigable river Burry or Lloughor, which flows about a "quarter of a
mile below it. At Penclawdd, in the higher division of this parish,
are considerable copper works, erected about 40 years ago,
denominated the Cheadle Copper Company; they were1 'at first
supplied with coals from a colliery not far distant, which was stopped
on account of some failure in the veins ; when the colliery at
Lloughor was opened by the same company, and the works are now
furnished with coals from Lloughor colliery by barges; the ships,
which bring the Ore from Cornwall and other places, take back coals
from Lloughor, or Llan Elly, or Yspytty, on the Caermarthen shire
side of the river.

Llan Samled hath its church dedicated to Samled, a saint
whose history is not known : there are excellent seams of coal now
working in this parish, which are conveyed in barges by the canal to
the sea-port of Swansea. Here are also three large copper works,
and two mills for the purpose of finishing the copper for market.

Lloughor or Castell Llychwr.— The church of this parish is
dedicated to St. Michael. Lloughor is a corporate town, and one
of the contributory boroughs with Caerdiff. Among the officers of

the

150 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

the corporation is one denominated the Ale Taster, also two other
officers to impound strange cattle upon the common, and an unlimited
number of constables at the will of the Steward of the Court, but at
present there are only four sworn within the borough. In this
borough is a house called the sanctuary, which is supposed to have
been appurtenant to the manor of Millwood or St. John's, near Swansea,
which formerly belonged to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem.
The entrance to this parish is near the 4th milestone, on the road from
Swansea to Lloughor. It is supposed that a church formerly stood
about 200 yards to the south of the ruins of the castle, on the marsh,
as there is,, at this day, a spot in that place called Story Myhangel,
on which it is thought to have been erected. The present church is
situated upon an eminence, and commands an extensive and beautiful
view of the surrounding country. This is the Leucarum of Richard
of Cirencester, and the fifth Roman station on the Via Julia ; the
name implies that it was a fortification on the river Lloughor or
Llychwr, which divides the counties of Glamorgan and Caermarthen,
over which there is a ferry. It is, however, strongly conjectured,
from traditionary reports, that the name originally given to it by the
Romans was Tre Afangc, or Beaver Town, from that animal then
abounding in the river ; hence the place is often called Trewanc, by
way of derision. The ruins of the castle are of a quadrangular form,
situate on a mount, with the remains of two ditches which formerly
surrounded it. It is not known by whom this edifice was erected,
but I am induced to think that the mount was thrown up by the
Romans, who had a garrison here, as their road, called the Julia
Strata, passed through this town ; and that the castle was built by
the first Lords Marchers, to whom this district was granted by the
crown : it was destroyed by Gruflfydd ap Rhys, prince of South
Wales, in 1115. In the reign of Henry the Second it was granted
to Hugh de Spencer, who must have repaired, if not built, the
present remains of the castle. Roman coins have been found here :
and on a common about three miles east of the town, there are two
small square encampments, evidently Roman, which are situated very
near each other, and, from their being raised on a common, called
Mynydd Cam Goch, it is probable that they were the hasty efforts of
some advanced post to secure itself from surprize, as it is evident that
a battle was fought near this spot, at a place called to this day Cadley,
or the field of battle. An extensive colliery is carried on here ; the
coal is of excellent quality, and in the summer there is a considerable
trade in the river. At the entrance into the court-yard of the parson-
age house, lies a large but curiously wrought stone, which is supposed
by some to have been a Roman military stone ; it is a favourite resort
on a summer's evening, and forms a good seat.

Llys Faen hath its church dedicated to Cynfran, a saint who
lived about the middle of the fifth century. Rhad Duw a Chynfran

Iwyd

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 151

Iwyd ar y da, i. e. " The grace of God, and the blessed Cynfran on
the cattle/' is an ejaculation made use of in offering at the well of St.
Cynfran, on behalf of diseased cattle.

Margam. — The church of this parish is dedicated to St. Mary.
Margam is not a market town, but since the establishment of copper
works, a Saturday's market is now holden adjacent to them. It is
situated very pleasantly under the shelter of a lofty hill, and luxuriant
woods. According to the Rev. John Hunt, LL.D. the name of this
parish has, for many centuries, been spelt Margam, a corruption of
the ancient British name Margan, or Mawrgan, now pronounced
Morgan, signifying the great head or chief, in old English, Grostest,
and, according to the oldest British, a transposition of the word Can-
mor, a name given to Malcolm the Third, king of Scotland.
Previous to the thirteenth century, this parish was called Pen Dar,
meaning the oak summit or mountain, a name very expressive of the
present scenery. The church being dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
the name also of the parish has been fancifully derived from that
circumstance, from Mair Gwm, or Mary's valley, or Cwm. There
are vestiges of a ruined chapel in the hamlet of Havod y Porth ; of
one in the hamlet of Trisaint ; and another in that part of Margam
wood called Craig y Chappel, on an eminence above the present
church ; this is supposed to have been either the parish church in the
time of the abbey to accommodate the dwellers on the mountains, or a
private oratory appertaining to it ; the latter appears to be the most
probable conjecture. The abbey of Pen Dar was founded by Robert
Earl of Gloucester, in the year 1147, for white monks, and assumed
the appellation of Margam, from Mawrgan, the son of Caradoc, in
the year 1200 or thereabouts; who, with his brothers Cadwallon and
Meriedoc, confirmed by charter their father's benefactions to the
abbey. The house appears to have been one side of a quadrangle :
among the offices are some remains of a beautiful circular chapter
house, 50 feet by 12 feet diameter, with 12 pointed windows, the roof
resting on a single central clustered column ; behind it are the cloister
which joined it to the church, which has the arches of the nave round.
A great part of the ancient remains have been lately altered, and some
pulled down, but many vestiges still exist in the park and adjacent
buildings. The stables and offices retain many marks of antiquity,
particularly the doors; this building has, from neglect, become a
ruin. In 1761, the tomb of an abbot was to be seen here, which then
lay over a drain ; on this stone were two lines of Latin verse, in the
monkish jingle of the times ; and in the street was a cross, having its
pedestal carved with nobs and fret work, containing likewise some
hieroglyphics, and near the top two curious figures. A good
specimen of the Anglo-Norman architecture appears on the west
front of the church, but the inside is plain and unadorned except a
few marble monuments for the Mansell family, and one for Sir Lewis

Man sell,

152 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Mansell, dated 1638, which is well executed. On the top of -an
adjoining hill is a Roman monumental stone, mentioned by Camden,
called Maen Llythyrog, and on the west of Margam hill is a Roman
encampment, and old intrenchments lie contiguous to it and the
abbey. There is also a Roman monumental stone near Eglwys
Nunydd, in this parish, on the high road from Margam to Cynfig.
A mile from the abbey was a convent of nuns, called Eglwys Nunydd,
or the Nuns Church, now a farm house. Of this foundation no
record exists, but stories are still prevalent of subterraneous con-
nexions between the two houses. Previous to the foundation of the
Cistercian abbey by Earl Robert, we can trace no memorials ; and as
the Earl was dispossessed of his English estates, by King Stephen,
for his adherence to the claim of his half-sister the Empress Matilda,
it is supposed, that, at his death at Gloucester, on the 3 1st October,
1 147, he gave his sanction and patronage to the establishment, and
endowed it with this extensive parish and other property, being then
part of vast domains which he became possessed of by his marriage
with Maud, the daughter and heiress of Robert Fitz-Hamon, the
Norman chieftain, in the county of Glamorgan ; by the same right he
became lord of the castle and township of Cynfig, which adjoins
Margam, and was bequeathed to the abbey with it ; as also of CaerdiflT
castle, which he gave to his son William, as it appears that this Earl
with his Countess, Hawisea, were taken prisoners in the year 1158,
by the Welsh, in this fortress. Towards the conclusion of this
century, Caradoc, by a nuncupative will, bequeathed large posses-
sions to the abbey, which his sons Mawrgan, Cadwallon, and
Mereiedoc, confirmed by charter sans date, addressed " Ordini
Cistercienci et Fratri Meilero et Fratribus de Pendar." But in the
grant of lands, bestowed on the abbey in 1349, by Sir John D'Abene,
a descendant in the fifth generation from Caradoc, it is therein termed
the abbey of Margam. In the second volume of Mr. Stevens's
edition of Sir William Dugdale's Monasticon, p. 37, he speaks of
Pendar as a Cistercian monastery in Wales, the site of which no writer
on monastical history has discovered ; but states, that in the charter
of Margam granted by Mawrgan and his brothers, this monastery is
denominated Pendar, and, therefore, identified with Margam. The
abbey, in all probability, derived its appellation from the name of the
person who granted the charter, though Caradoc's name had the
better claim, and it was first appropriated to the abbey, the church,
and the houses clustered round it. This surmise is strengthened by
the fact, that the inhabitants of this parish, even now, when they
speak of Margam, mean to denote what is comprehended in the abbey
demesne, though it is the general name of the whole parish. To
perpetuate our names may be deemed a natural and laudable impulse
of the human mind, and such, perhaps, was Mawrgan's ; and such
seems to have been that of Hugo le Despenser, though with less

success,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 153

success, who, confirming to this abbey the grant of various lands
given to his ancestors, the De Clares, Earls of Gloucester and
Hereford, addresses his grant in two instances, " Monachis de
Clareval de foundacione Abbice de Margam ;" the appellation of
Pendar, the oak summit, is not totally forgotten, and is certainly very
appropriate to the great feature of this parish, as the wood which
rises immediately from the church, and a line parallel with it, presents
a magnificent object to the country, and is a conspicuous land-mark to
the Bristol channel. It covers the breast of a mountain 800 feet in
height, more than a mile in circumference, and in grandeur is supposed
to stand unrivalled. Upon a rough valuation, made some few years
ago, of the oak timber it contained, the estimate was £60,000. This
wood was, in the ancient grants, denominated Cryke Wood, " Totum
ilium Boscum vocatum Cryke Wodde." At the dissolution of the
abbey (26 Henry VIII.), its property, consisting of this parish, the
contributory borough and township of Cynfig, with a great extent of
lands and impropriate rights was rated at £181. 7s. 4d. per annum,
according to Dugdale, and £188. 14s. 6d. according to Speed. But
by letters patent under the Great Seal, dated 5th day of August, 35
Henry VIII. it was valued by the commissioners at £40. 12s. lid.
and sold to Sir Rice Mansel, knight, for £642. 9s. 8d. and on the
llth December, 4th and 5th of Philip and Mary, a remaining part
was sold to the said Sir Rice Mansel for £283. 15s. 3d. valuation not
recorded, perhaps comprehended in the first. Sir Rice Mansel,
knight, possessed a castellated mansion on the north-west side of
Oxwich bay, in the hundred of Gower, in this county. His ancestor,
Sir Hugh Mansel, married the sister and heiress of Sir John Penrice,
knight, of Penrice Castle, on the opposite side of the bay, and by that
connexion acquired great property contiguous to his own. But the
purchase of Margam inducing Sir Rice Mansel to reside there, as a
richer country and more commodious situation, his castles in Gower
became dilapidated, but even now exhibit proud remains of ancient
grandeur. A modern house, built on an elegant but small scale, at
the foot of the castle of Penrice, by the present possessor of the
Margam estate, is now and has been the residence of the Talbot
family (the heirs by the maternal line of the Mansels) for the last 30
years. A manuscript in the library of His Grace the Duke of
Beaufort, at Badminton, records a tour of the then Duke of Beaufort
through South Wales, in the year 1684, and his reception by Sir
Edward Mansel, at Margam, on the 16th of August. To pass over
the usual welcomes of Welsh hospitality, it may not be uninteresting
to relate that, amidst other entertainments, with which His Grace
was amused, a diversion at that time in request, and every way
characteristic of the active energy of the Cambrian, was exhibited,
of Deer-hunting in the park by footmen, who ran down two bucks,
and led them alive to the ante- court of the house to be viewed by the

keeper

154 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

keeper and party, and, if judged fit for the table, to receive the fatal
stroke from a scymitar. A summer-house, built on an intrenched
hill, called Pen y Castell, commands a view of this extensive park,
and was a well selected spot for observing the sport. The manuscript,
from which this extract is taken, is so very particular and circum-
stantial in its narrative, that, as it makes no mention of the Orangery,
since so celebrated, there is great reason to suppose, that so handsome
and singular an appendage to a gentleman's seat, so far from being
omitted, would have claimed peculiar attention, and, if it did exist
at that time, would have been recorded in these annals. No note has
been made by the family of its first introduction, but if we believe oral
tradition respecting it, and we have no other, it originated from a
shipwreck on this coast. A vessel was conveying from Portugal to
Queen Mary, a present from a Dutch merchant of orange and lemon
trees : being stranded, the plants were secured and cultivated in a
house 150 feet in length, with stoves, and a handsome pavilion in the
centre. Whether they were not claimed, or by any means not com-
pensated for, we do not know, but Sir Thomas Mansel, baronet, who
was Comptroller of the Household to Queen Anne, and afterwards, in
1711, raised to the peerage, made an annual present of fruit to her
Majesty. Whether this was to be considered a quit rent for the
grant of former possession, or a grateful compliment for the honours
conferred upon him, it is impossible to decide. The present
possessor, in 1787, built a new green-house in a most superb style,
327 feet in length, with a handsome doric front, and a pavilion at
each end, and in the year 1800, a conservatory with flues in the
ground. The trees in the green-house are all standards, planted in
square boxes, and are remarkable for their round branching heads ;
they are in nnmber about 110, and many of them are about 1 8 feet
high. There are about 40 in the conservatory, planted in the natural
earth, and traced against a trellis framing, where the fruit abounds,
and attains its native size and excellence. The collection consists of
the Seville, China, cedra, pomegranate, curled-leaved, and nutmeg
oranges ; lemons, — burgamots, citrons, and shaddocks. The
pleasure ground, surrounding these Orangeries, is peculiarly favour-
able to the growth of evergreens ; amongst these a bay tree, or rather
a bay bush, derived from one root, but sprouting from the ground in
various branches, is the most conspicuous, being 65 feet in height,
and 45 feet in diameter : the arbutes are innumerable, and with the
Portugal laurel and holly, exhibit the most luxuriant vegetation. A
copper mine, on the most extended plan of any in the Principality,
has been working here for several years, it was established by the
English Copper Company, consumes daily about 70 tons of coal,
with which this parish abounds, and by possessing a commodious
harbour at the influx of the Afon into the Severn, it commands a
great facility of exportation* Iron ore is also in many parts discover-
able, and limestone abounds in the neighbourhood.

Mary

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 155

Mary Church, or Eglwys Fair.— The Lordship of Rhythyn, mostly
contained within this parish, constituted formerly one of the many
petty sovereignties into which the county of Glamorgan was divided,
each exercising Jure Regalia; but which, with all the other Lord
Marchers, was abolished by the incorporation of Wales with England
in the reign of King Henry the Eighth.

St. Nicholas. — There is a house adjoining the church-yard here
which is kept in repair at the expense of the parish, and wherein poor
people live ; it appears, on its first institution, to have been either a
chantry or alms-house ; at the distance of a quarter of a mile, in a
field on the south-side of the village, there is a remarkable stone
(measuring in length 24 feet, and in breadth 10 feet) erected on others
6 feet high, and so constitutes a spacious room ; it is thought to be a
druidical temple ; it has a mound raised round it, except in one place
where you enter. On the north-side of the village, at an equal
distance, there are the remains of a Roman encampment.

Oxwich hath its church dedicated to St. Illtyd : it is situate on the
Bristol channel. Here are the remains of a large superb old mansion,
called Oxwich castle, which was built, by Sir Rice Mansell, about the
reign of King Henry the Eighth ; part of it now is converted into a
large farm-house; the remains of a beautiful banquetting room are
still to be seen, which is ascended by a flight of steps ; the windows
are of large and handsome dimensions : about twenty years ago, a
great part of this building fell in and destroyed the dairy, belonging
to the farmer, with all its contents, but, fortunately, no further mis-
chief was done. This castle is not supposed to have been built for
the purpose of defence, though a few yards distant, at the top of
Oxwich Wood, are the remains of a watch tower, which appears to
have been of much stronger workmanship, and of a more ancient date ;
it commands a most extensive and beautiful view of Oxwich Bay, and
the neighbouring country, which is well wooded. The parsonage-
house was erected, about forty years ago, by Thomas Mansell Talbot,
Esq. the patron of the living : it is a very commodious and complete
building, fronting the Bay of Oxwich. The church is romantically
situate on the edge of the wood, not far from the sea shore, and, from
the sands, is a very pleasing object, appearing to be enveloped in the
trees. Between the church and the sea, stand the ruins of the old
parsonage-house; the outer wall of which, still remaining, is built on
the rocks, and washed, at high water in spring tides, by the sea,
which, latterly, seemed so much to threaten destruction to the house,
that Mr. Talbot, with great liberality, built the present one. Tradi-
tion says, that the sea destroyed land and houses which formerly lay
below the church : this appears very likely, as the church now stands
on the southern extremity of the parsonage, and at some distance from
the villages of Oxwich and Slade. The parsonage-house is now the
nearest to the church. The sands here are remarkably firm and

smooth,

156 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

smooth, and the water generally clear ; consequently it is an excellent
place for sea-bathing. Plenty of crabs and lobsters are caught here,
and occasionally oysters. The sea weeds, known by the names of
layer and samphire, abound on these rocks : the laver is a broad and
thin green leaf, growing on the flat rocks or stones in the sea; it is
gathered and then boiled well, put in earthen pots with merely a little
salt, and sent, as a rarity, to a great distance : the samphire grows on
the larger rocks or cliffs not overflown by the sea, and, when not in
blossom, it is gathered, boiled, and pickled, and is an excellent sub-
stitute for capers, and much esteemed as a pickle.

Pen Arth hath its church dedicated to St. Mary. There are
vestiges of a church which formerly stood within 100 yards of Pen
Arth castle. About six or seven hundred acres adjacent are now
covered with sand, and the foundation of the houses are frequently
dug up at the depth of several feet. The present parish church was
built about half a mile to the eastward of these ruins. A town is sup-
posed to have stood formerly where the sands now are, as there is still
a village to the south of them, called South Gate, and a farm-house to
the north of them, called Norton, or Northtown. It is conjectured to
take its name from the jutting out of a part of the parish into the
Bristol channel, something like the shape of a bear's head. Exten-
sive remains of the castle are still to be seen : it is situate a few
hundred yards above the mouth of a small rivulet, called Pen Arth
Pill, which divided the parishes of Pen Maen and Pen Arth ; the
gateway, which is nearly in a perfect state, is a noble specimen of
ancient architecture ; it is now surrounded by large sand hills, and
the sea flows within two hundred yards of its base. A little below
the castle on the sands is a rock, called the Three Cliffs, from its
resemblance to three sugar loaves placed in a line. In the centre of
this rock is a curiously-formed arch, sufficiently large to admit a man
to pass through, and in stormy weather, the wind and sea raging
against it, occasions a tremendous noise somewhat like the blowing of
immense forge bellows. The rocks extend from this place to Pwll
ddu Point, which forms the eastern side of Oxwich Bay. About a
quarter of a mile further is a singular cavern in a cliff, called Bacon's
Hole, nearly in the centre between the summit of the precipice and
the sea. It is inaccessible on the sea side at any state of the tide ;
but there is a narrow and steep path from the top of the cliff leading
down to it, which is dangerous to those who are unaccustomed to
such roads, as a false step would, doubtless, precipitate them into the
ocean ; it is, however, frequently descended.

Pen Marc hath its church dedicated to St. Mark : the chapels of
ease of Aber Ddaw and Rhos have been demolished, or at least
disused, since the time of Oliver Cromwell. The ancient castle of
Pen Marc, which belonged to Gilbert Humphreville, one of the
Norman adventurers^ has been in ruins since the time of Owain

Glyndwr.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 157

Glyndwr. Fonmon castle is habitable, and is now the seat of Robert
Jones, Esq. There is a tradition that, in times of popery, a human
skull, pretended to be that of St. Mark, was kept in the church-yard,
and that it was from this relic the church and parish were named.

Pyle hath its chapel dedicated to St. James the Apostle. There is
a spring near the chapel, called Collwyn Well, which has been famed,
for some centuries past, for its medicinal virtues.

Reynoldston is supposed to have taken its name from Sir Reginald
de Breos, who was a Lord of the Manor, and the founder of the
church, which is dedicated to St. George, and after whom a very
fine well is called near the church. Contiguous to St. George's well,
is another fine spring, which is supposed to possess some medicinal
virtues, and is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. There is also on
Cefn y Brynn a remarkable well, called Holy Well, a very copious
spring, which has the remains of antiquity about its square inclosure :
tradition hands down its celebrity for great cures ; and it has been
customary for the inhabitants of the vicinity to resort to it on Sunday
evenings to drink its water, and pay the tribute of throwing in a pin.
In a field adjoining Bryn-Field some Roman antiquities have been
discovered (where are still the remains of an ancient encampment) by
John Lucas, Esq. who has a handsome residence in this parish, called
Stout Hall : these antiquities were discovered in a fosse which sur-
rounds the encampment. The famous druidical monument, called
Arthur's Stone, mentioned by Camden, is in this parish, and is situate
on the north-side of Cefn y Brynn: it is supported by six rough
pillars ; there are four other pillars standing alone, which supported a
part of the stone now broken off, by what means is now unknown,
though it is said that it was broken oft' for the purpose of making mill-
stones, but was afterwards found unfit for the intention : several
smaller pieces have, from time to time, been broken off, chiefly
through mere wickedness, so that it must have decreased in size ; it is
supposed to weigh now about twenty tons, and to have been brought
from a distance, as it is of a different quality to the stone found upon
this hill ; underneath it is a spring of water seldom dry : a great
quantity of loose stone, thrown there by the country people, served to
hide some part of the pillars, but were cleared away at the expense of
Mr. Lucas. A handsome road was made along the summit of this
hill by Thomas Mansell Talbot, Esq. from which is a beautiful and
extensive view of the Bristol channel, the coast of Devon, Pembroke,
and Carmarthen, and the whole of the river Burry as far as Lloughor,
and the whole of the Peninsula of Gower, which from hence appears
nearly an island. This is a most beautiful ride in the summer season.
On the summit of Cefn y Brynn are several large heaps of stones,
particularly on the eastern extremity, just above Pen Maen church,
and which is called the Beacon by the country people ; these were,
probably, either burying places or monuments erected by the Druids.

In

158 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

In the grounds at Stout Hall is a Meini Gwyr, fourteen feet long,
composed of granite, the same as Arthur's Stone : this pillar is similar,
in shape and proportion, to those of Stone Henge. In the garden is
a very curious and extensive cavern, large enough to contain 2000
men : the bottom of it is a plain, about forty feet below the surface of
the ground; there are two entrances into it, one by along flight of
rustic steps, the other by a gradual descent : the first discovery of it
was by a small aperture in the lime-stone rock, containing a very fast
clay ; this Mr. Lucas scooped out, and was not a little gratified to find
the hollow expand, and the fine arched roof appear; his exploring
mind could not then rest till he had scooped out some thousands of
tons of clay, which, with a little assistance, and now and then blowing
the rock, opened the finest cavern in the kingdom, and perhaps in
Europe : the arched roofs, in some places thirty-six, but not less than
ten, feet high, are exceedingly grand ; and it is tolerably lighted by
several natural openings through the incumbent earth.

Rhos Sili hath its church dedicated to Fili, of Ffili, a saint
who lived in the beginning of the seventh century > (there was also
Ffili Gawr, an ancient British chieftain, from whom, it is supposed,
the castle of Caerphilly, or Caer Ffili, derived its name.) In the
division of Glamorgan by the Norman adventurers, this lordship was
given to Reginald Sili.

Dre Rhudd hath its chapel dedicated to St. James. Here is a
mineral spring which is esteemed efficacious in the cure of sore eyes.
It is situate on the river Rhymny ; and the place is said to derive its
name from the great number of yew trees that grow here.

Roath hath its church dedicated to St. Margaret. The Marquis
of Bute, some years ago, re-built the chancel, and put up a very
elegant ornamented window at the east end of it. To the north of the
chancel, and adjoining to it, His Lordship has erected a new burying
place for his family: the late Marchioness, the late Lord Mount
Stuart, and others, are therein deposited.

Sully hath its church dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The
castle and lordship formerly belonged to one of the Norman
Conquerors.

Tythegstone hath its church dedicated to St. Tudwgr a saint of the"
congregation of Cenydd, who lived until about the middle of the sixth
century. On the estate of Henry Knight, Esq. in this parish, are the
remains of a cromlech.

Ystrad Owain hath its church dedicated to St. Owain, or Owairt
Finddu, a distinguished character in the History of Britain ; and
who was also accounted a saint of the British church. There were
standing, not many years ago, in a field near the village, two large,
but rude, monumental stones, said to have been placed at the heads of
the graves of Owain ab Ithel and his consort, and commonly called
(t the King and Queen stones," but they have of late years been

removed,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 159

removed. Tal y Faen castle, of which there are some remains, was
one of the castles belonging to one of the thirteen peers of Glamorgan:
it was granted by Sir Robert Fitz Hamon to Sir Richard de Seward,
in whose family it continued for many generations, and from whom it
passed, by marriage, to the Dukes of Lancaster, and it still forms a
part of the domains of that duchy. In a field adjoining the church-
yard, on the western side, there is a very large tumulus, of which no
traditional account now remains.

Lalyston, or Tref Lalys, hath its church dedicated to St. Illtyd.
This village is said to have taken its name from a person called Lalys,
a man eminent in the art of masonry, and who was brought, from the
Holy Land, about the year 1 1 1 1 , by Richard Granville, Lord of
Neath : this man is reported to have built several abbies and churches,
with many castles, and other considerable works; and afterwards
became architect to King Henry the First.

Llan-Yadog hath its church dedicated to Madog, a saint who
lived about the beginning of the sixth century. It is situate upon.
Bury harbour ; and Llan-Vadog Hill, upon which are the remains of
a Roman encampment, is a well-known beacon to mariners.

Mr. Edward Williams, a native of this county, thus beautifully
describes the same : —

« Glamorgan, boast thy sky serene j

Thy health inspiring gales;
Thy sunny plains, luxuriant green;

Thy graceful mountains airy scene ;
Their wild .romantic vales."

The following eminent men were natives of or residents in this
county: — Mr. Edward Williams, bard (lolo Morganwg); Richard
Price, D.D.; Davydd Hopgyn, bard; Sir Llywelyn Jenkins,
Secretary of State to James II. ; William Edwards, architect; Saint
Caradoc ; Rev. Evan Evans, a dissenting preacher, philosopher, and
poet; levan Ddu ap Davydd O wain, poet; Robert Thomas, poet;
Rev. John Walter, an eminent divine; Llywelyn o Llangewydd, or
Llywelyn Sion, poet; Rhys Llwyd, poet: Sir Thomas Mansel, Bart.
Comptroller of the Household to Queen Anne.

CAERMARTHENSHIRE.

160 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

CAERMARTHENSHIRE.

I HE general surface is hilly; the vales for the most part are
narrow. The principal rivers are the Tawy and Taf: the former
rises in Cardiganshire, enters Caermarthenshire at its north-eastern
corner, and takes its course to the south.

LLANDOVERY,

or Llan-Ym-Ddyfri, in the parish of Llandingad, is supposed
to take its name from its situation near the conflux of the rivers
Bran and Gwydderig, and is about a quarter of a mile from
the Tywi. In Leland's time " it had but one street, and that
poorly built of thatched houses, with the parish church on a hill,
near which several Roman bricks have been found;" it is now
considerably improved, consisting of Castle Street, High Street,
Lower Street, Queen Street, and Stone Street. This town is doubt-
less of considerable antiquity, and had its origin in the Roman
station, which was at or near Llanfair ar y Brynn, about half a mile
from hence : for that the Romans had there a fixed place of residence
is sufficiently ascertained by numerous pieces of broken bricks,
earthenware, and coins having been discovered there. On a mount
between Boran river and Ewenny brook are the remains of a castle,
consisting of two sides and a deep trench, but by whom built is
uncertain. In 1113 we find it in the possession of Richard de Pws,
and in 1116 (or about that time) besieged by Gruflfydd ap Rhys,
who, after burning the outworks, raised the siege, and retired with
considerable loss. Subsequent to this many trifling circumstances
occurred; but the last action (mentioned by Caradoc) took place
in 1213 or 1214, when Rh}7s, son of Gruffydd ap Rhys, with an army
of Welsh and Normans, encamped before this place, with an inten-
tion to besiege it, but the governor thought it more prudent to
surrender, on condition that the garrison should be permitted to
march out unmolested, which was granted. According to tradition
it was destroyed by the forces under Oliver Cromwell. This was the
residence and supposed birthplace of the Rev. Rh5rs Prichard, A.M.
a celebrated Welsh poet : he was vicar of the parish of Llandingad
in 1602, Chancellor of Saint David's in 1626, and died in 1644. .

On leaving Llandovery, and at the distance of about eight miles,
we pass on our left the town of Llangadock, having its church dedi-
cated to Saint Cadog, and situate between the rivers Bran and
Sawthy. The town is small, but lately much improved in its build-
ings : it is said to have been once a large town, and Thomas Beck,
Bishop of Saint David's, made its church collegiate in 1233 (accord-
ins;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

16f

ing to others in 1283), to the honour of Saint Maurice and his
companions and St. Thomas the Martyr; but if ever this took effect,
it did not (as Tanner says) continue so long. In the neighbourhood
was an ancient castle, now entirely demolished. Bledri, the son of
Cedifor, the great Lord of Gwydigada andElfed, died in 1119, and
was buried here.

About 12 miles from Llandovery, in our road, is Llandilo-Vawr,
the church of which is dedicated to Saint Teilo: it is a considerable
market town, pleasantly situated on a rising ground by the Tawy,
over which is a handsome stone bridge. In 1213 Rhys Fychan,
being fearful that Foulke, Lord of Cardigan, would dispossess him
of this town, caused it to be burnt to the ground, and then had
himself recourse to the woods and desert places in its vicinity. A
decisive battle is said to have been fought here between Edward the
First and Llywelyn the Great, in which, by Mortimer's manoeuvre,
the Welsh were defeated. About three miles distant lie the ruins of
Cappel yr Ywen, formerly a chapel-of-ease under the mother church.
About five miles south is a chalybeate spring, called Ffynnon Craig
Ceflfyl, and there are several others in the neighbourhood.

One mile from Llandilo-fawr is Dinefawr Castle, the principal seat
of the Rice family, lately ennobled by the title of Lord Dinefawr, or
Dynevor. It occupies an eminence above the town, covering several
undulating hills with its rich graves and verdant lawns. The castle
was built by Rhys ap Theodore in the time of William the Conqueror,
who removed hither from Caermarthen, the former residence of the
Princes of South Wales. Its original form was circular, fortified
with a double moat and rampart, having on the left side of the ascent
a bulwark, a large arch belonging to which fell down several years
ago. South of the castle are shewn the ruins of a chapel between two
round towers, and on the east side a dungeon at the bottom of a
ruined tower. In the year 1145, Cadell, the son of Gruffydd ap
Rhys, took this fortress from Gilbert Earl of Clare. Giraldus men-
tions it being demolished in 1 194, but soon after rebuilt with its
ruins, and consequently made to occupy a smaller extent of ground.
After this, in 1204, we find it in the possession of Rhys, the son of
Gruflfydd ap Rhys; but in 1257, Rhys Fychan, having procured
assistance, marched with art English army from Carmarthen against
this fortress,, which valiantly held out until Llewelyn ap Gruffydd
came to its relief, when a battle ensued, wherein the English lost two
thousand men, besides many barons and knights that were taken
prisoners. The demolition of this castle was completed in the civil
wars : two batteries failed to make any impression on its garrison,
but a third being erected, it was reduced. The ruins were granted to
Sir Rice ap Thomas by Henry the Seventh, for the great assistance
given him on his landing at Milford Haven, and afterwards at Bos-
worth Field,, which procured Henry the crown of England. Henry

Ff2 the

162 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

the Eighth, on a false charge of treason, seized this castle, and again
restored it to an ancestor of the present Lord Dinefawr, who is a lineal
descendant from Urien Reged, Lord of Kidwelly, Carunllon, and
Yskenen, in South Wales. In the centre, amid rich groves and
verdant lawns, stands the house, a plain modern structure, but the
scenery about it is beautiful, consisting of a profusion of woods, prin-
cipally of tine oaks and Spanish chesnuts, descending abruptly to the
bed of the river Tawy, where all the striking beauties of this enchant-
ing tract may be enjoyed in full display of romantic scenery, while
the high chain of rude and unequal mountains, crossing the road at
right angles, form three separate vales, widely differing from each
other in form and character. The Eisteddfod, a triennial assembly of
the bards, was holden here in the reign of its ancient princes.

Three miles eastward from Llandilo-fawr is Carreg Cennin Castle,
i. e. " the Castle on the Rock by the Cennin," a small river which
runs at the foot of the rock on which the castle was erected. It is
strongly situate on the point of a high craggy insulated rock, three
sides of which are wholly inaccessible, and surrounded at moderate
but equal distances with mountains, the roads leading to the castle
being scarcely passable. The fortress, of which a great part is still
extant, does not occupy an acre of ground, the rocks scarcely admit-
ting of that extent; but the ruins are extremely high, and when seen
from the road between Bettws and Llandeilo appear in a degree of
magnificence uncommonly singular. This was doubtless an ancient
British building, and a proof of its great antiquity may be deduced
from its plan, for, on approaching to it from the east side, we do not
find the gateway, as is usual, between two towers in front, but a strong
covered way on the brink of the rock, which leads to the gates on the
south side. The well in this castle is also of a singular kind ; for,
instead of a perpendicular descent, here is a large winding cave bored
through the solid rock, with an arched passage on the northern edge
of the precipice, running along the outside of the fortress, with an
easy slope to the beginning of the perforation, which is in length 84
feet : this perforation is of various dimensions ; the breadth of it, at
the beginning, is 12 feet, and in some places less than three, but at a
medium it may be estimated to be from five to six feet, and the height
of the cave ten feet, but varying, so that the whole descent through
the rock is 150 feet. Notwithstanding all this extravagant labour,
there is scarcely water sufficient for a small family, nor does there
appear any other resource within the precincts of the castle. Here
history appears to have been very deficient, for there is no account or
mention of this castle till 1284, when, according to Caradoc, Rhys
Fychan won it from the English, to whom, a short time before, it was
privately delivered by his mother. In 1773 some coins were turned
up here by the plough, and since variously misrepresented, but the
number is ascertained to have been about two hundred angular pieces

of

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 163

of silver, containing inscriptions for Elizabeth, James, and Charles I.
the whole of which were found near the foot of the precipice before
described, consequently we may conclude they are the vestiges of the
civil dissensions of the 17th century. The castle is supposed to have
been built by Goronw, Lord of Is Cennin, one of the knights of King
Arthur's round table. Near here is Cwrt Brynn y Beirdd, formerly
a princely bardic residence.

At Abergwili, on the road from Llandilo-fawr to Caermarthen,
tradition says that there were formerly several chapels, of which one
only now remains, called Llanfihangel Uwch Gwili, and the ruins of
another.

CAER FYRDDIN, CAERMARTHEN, OR CAER FYRDDIN,

boasts of very high antiquity, and is a town connected with classical
history as well as British superstition. Here the Romans had a
station, called Maridunum, of which little more is known. It is beau-
tifully situate on the banks of the navigable river Tawy, and to the
northward of a spacious bay to which it gives name, opposite the
Bristol channel. It is said to have been anciently esteemed the
capital of all Wales. Giraldus says that it was a place of great
strength, and fortified with brick walls, which are yet visible near the
river. It is now the capital of the county, and was formerly the
residence of the Princes of South Wales, and where the Ancient
Britons held their parliaments, with the Chancery and Exchequer for
South Wales, until that nation was formed into a principality by the
crown of England. In the 38th of Henry the Eighth Caermarthen
was created a borough town. The castle is situate on a rock com-
manding the river Tawy, but the gate only remains, forming at present
the county gaol, with some remnants of the town wall about the east-
gate. Of its origin we have no account until 11 13, when, according
to Caradoc, the following were nominated to defend the castle in
turns, viz. Owen ap Caradoc, Rhytherch ap Theodore, and Meredith
ap Rhytherch, each commanding for a fortnight. $oon after this
regulation, Rhys ap Gruffydd gained possession of the town, and
burnt the castle. In 1144 it was rebuilt by Gilbert Earl of Clare ;
but in the year 1215 it was, by Llewelyn's orders, levelled to the
ground. Without the town stands the church (dedicated to Saint
Peter), a large handsome building, having a fine-toned organ, and
many good monuments ; but the most remarkable is one erected to the
memory of Sir Rhys ap Thomas, who, as before mentioned, assisted
Henry VII. in his landing at Milford Haven, and joined his forces to
Henry's, and bravely fought for him in Bosworth Field. In the
suburbs, but further east than the church, are some ruins of a priory
for Black Monks, founded before 1148, and valued at about £164 per
annum. It is dedicated to Saint John the Evangelist, and was
granted (35th Henry VIII.) to Richard Andrews and Nicholas

Temple,

164 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Temple. Here was also a house of Grey Friars, under the custody
of Bristol, which after the dissolution was granted (34th Henry VIII.)
to Thomas Lloyd, and in the 5th of Edward VI. to Sir Thomas
Gresham. Caermarthen is at present a very respectable town, both
in appearance and trade, containing a number of well-built houses,
besides many independent and genteel families who have made it
their residence, which put it almost on a level with some of our best
English towns. It exports a great quantity of oats and butter to
London and Bristol, stone and coal to Norfolk, bark to Ireland, and
oak timber to some of the principal dock-yards in the kingdom. Its
imports are fruit from Lisbon, bale goods and hardware from British
ports, and a great quantity of timber from Norway and Russia. The
iron works, tin works, and a lead mine in the neighbourhood, contri-
bute likewise to increase its wealth and swell its importance. — A
Letter by the Rev. W. H. Barker, vicar in 1811, says — "Saint
Peter's is the name of tlie parish, which is frequently called Caermar-
then, from the town in which it is situate; every military- station in
Welsh was called Gaer ; if walled the town was so called, and, for
distinction, some epitaph usually added. In the centre of the town
stands the town-hall, close to which are houses, which shew the fabric
of St. Mary's church; not used for religious purposes since the disso-
lution of religious houses ; the heads of saints, &c. are still visible on
the timbers of the roofs. Close to the north of the town are the
remains of an old Roman Prgetorium, in a field called the Bullrack
(Bulwark), where was the Gaer, or Roman camp : coins of the lower
empire are frequently dug up in the gardens ; some Roman altars
have been also met with, and I have one, a large tube, with part of an
inscription, now in my possession." Here (according to Camden) was
born the British Tages, or Merlin, or as the British writers call him
Merddyn Emrys, who flourished about A. D. 480. The first historian
that mentions him is Nennius, yet he says nothing of his fabulous
birth ; but tells us his mother was a Nun, in a nunnery here, the scite
of which was shewn to Leland : Jiis father was a Roman Consul in the
time of Vortigern. All our Monkish historians add a long fable to
his birth, besides creating him a prophet or ^magician : but Humphrey
Llwyd represents him as a man of extraordinary learning and pru-
dence for the time in which he lived ; and his skill in the mathematics
gave rise to a certain fable, which has been transmitted to posterity.
All we know of the writings ascribed to him are certain alleged
prophecies. On a hill about one mile from this town, the inhabitants
shew a grove called Merlin's, and a spring of water forming a lake.
Here he is said to have frequently retired, to pursue his studies in
solitude. The monument erected here to the memory of the late
General Sir Thomas Picton, the renowned Welsh hero, was thrown
open to the public view on Tuesday, the 5th of August, 1828. The
structure in its general design, particularly the shaft and entablature,

resembles

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

165

resembles Trajan's Pillar at Rome, and from the durability of the
material (black marble), promises to survive the wreck of as many
ages as that mouldering but interesting relic of antiquity. On the
south side of the monument is the following inscription : —

Sir THOMAS PICTON,

Knight Grand Cross of the Military Order of the Bath,

Of the Portuguese Order of the Tower and Sword, and of other Foreign Orders,
Lieutenant-General in the British Army, and Member of Parliament for the Borough of

Pembroke,
Born at Poyston, in Pembrokeshire, in August, 1758,

Died at Waterloo, on the 18th of June, 1815,
Gloriously fighting for his Country and the Liberties of Europe,

Having honourably fulfilled, on Behalf of the Public*, various Duties in various Climates,
And having achieved the highest Military Renown in the

Spanish Peninsula,

He thrice received the unanimous Thanks of Parliament;
And a Monument, erected by the British Nation, in Saint Paul's Cathedral,

commemorates his Death and Services.

His grateful Countrymen, to perpetuate past and incite to future Exertions,
Have raised this Column under the Auspices of his Majesty

King George the Fourth,
To the Memory of a Hero and a Welshman.
The Plan and Design of this Monument was given by our Countryman,

John Nash, Esq. F. R. S. Architect to the King.
The Ornaments were executed by E. H. Bailey, Esq. R. A.

And the whole was erected by Mr. Daniel Mainwaring, of the Town of Caermarthen,
in the Years 1826 and 1827.

On the north side is a translation of the above in Welsh. The
subscribers have transferred their property in the monument to the
corporation, to whom it now of right appertains.

About 7 miles beyond Caermarthen is the village of Saint Clare,
where was anciently a castle, which was gone to ruin in Leland's time.
Here was likewise a priory of monks, cell to the Cluniac Abbey of
St. Martin de Campis, in Paris, founded in the year 1291, and given
by Henry the Sixth to All Souls College, Oxford. Five miles from
St. Clare stood Ty-Gwyn, or White House, tjie ancient palace of
Howel Dda, the first sovereign of all Wales. IJere in 942 he sent
for the Archbishop of St. David's, with the rest of the bishops and
principal clergy to the number of 140, besides the barons and princi-
pal nobility. Thus collected in the palace of Ty-Gwyn, they passed
the Lent in prayer and fasting, imploring Divine assistance in the
design of reforming the laws. At the close of the season the king
chose twelve of the gravest and most experienced men of this
assembly, who, in concert with Blegore,d, a very learned man and
able lawyer, he commissioned to examine the old laws, in order to
retain the good and abrogate those that were improper or unneces-
sary. The commission being executed, the new laws were publicly
read and proclaimed ; three copies were accordingly written, one for
the king's own use, the second to be laid up in his palace of Aber-
flfraw, in North Wales, and the third at Dinefawr, in South Wales,

that

166 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

that all the Welsh provinces may have access to them ; and, as a
further confirmation of the whole, the king with the archbishop
went to Rome, and obtained of the Pope a solemn ratification of the
same, which continued in force till the conquest of Wales in 1282 by
Edward the First. Mr. Warrington says — " the death of this
amiable prince, who had long enjoyed the mild honours resulting
from peace and the public esteem, spread universally the deepest
sorrow. As a great memorial of his virtues, posterity has given him
the surname of Dda, or f the Good :' his code of laws is the best
eulogium to his memory, and raises him as much above the rest of
the Cambrian princes as peace and gentleness of manners and a
regular state are preferable to the evils inseparable from war, to the
fierceness of uncivilized life, and to the habits of a wild independancy.
From this comparison \i is the author's meaning to except those
British and Cambrian princes who defended their country from the
rapacity or ambition of foreign enemies, a conduct than which nothing
can be more meritorious, or scarcely any thing have a higher claim
on the respect and gratitude of mankind."

Three miles south of Saint Clare is Llacharn, a small village
situate at the mouth of the river Taf: it is irregularly built on a low
bank of the estuary, with a ferry to Llanstephan. Llacharn Castle
is a fine old ruin, and is recorded either to have been built by
Guido de Brian in the reign of King Henry the Third, or to have
been rebuilt by him, as it is said that this castle was destroyed by
Llywelyn ap lorwerth in 1215: if so, Guido de Brian rebuilt it in
the following reign. The remains of an ivy-clad gateway and various
other ruins of the castle are still standing in a good state of pre-
servation. It still exhibits the fragments of an ancient keep, situate
on an elevation, and surrounded by a deep moat. The cloak or
mantle of Sir Guido de Brian the younger, Lord Marcher in the
reign of King John, richly embroidered in purple and gold, is still
preserved in the church. Josiah Tucker, D. D. Dean of Gloucester,
was born here, and died in 1729, aged 87 : he was a celebrated
political writer and able divine. There are in this parish the
remains of a ruin, now called Roche's Castle, which tradition reports
to be those of a. monastery, though it is not ascertained when it was
built, or to what order it belonged. The ancient appellation of the
parish, Llacharn, or Tal Llacharn, i. e. " Above the great Lake,"
has probably been corrupted into its present name of Laugharne
from that of a General William Laugharne, who, in the year 1644,
besieged and took the castle of Llacharn. Tradition says that the
parish church formerly stood upon a farm called Croseland, or
Christ's Land, but no vestige now remains, if any such edifice had
been there.

About three miles eastward from the last-mentioned place is Llan-
stephan, having its church dedicated to Saint Stephen. — Llanstephan

Castle

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 167

Castle, which crowns the summit of a bold hill, hath its precipitous
base washed by the sea; its broken walls enclose a large area, and
it is encircled with several ramparts, appearing to have possessed
considerable strength. The whole affords a very picturesque appear-
ance, exhibiting a wide estuary, with a rocky promontory opposite,
and the boundless sea. The village is neat, and well situated in a
woody valley, commanding an extensive view of the neighbouring
estuary of the Taf, near its conjunction with the sea. The castle
was built probably by the Normans before 1215, but afterwards fell
into the possession of Llywelyn. Here is a well, called Saint
Anthony's well, walled with stone and mortar, and over it is a niche,
where it is supposed a figure of the saint was placed. Great cures
are said to have been performed by the water of this well formerly,
but it has not been much resorted to of late years. Here was a
chapel, called in ancient records " Marble Church," which originally
belonged to the church of Llanstephan ; but the dissenters having
possessed themselves of it during the civil wars, have retained it ever
since.

Kydweli, or Cydweli, hath its church dedicated to Saint Mary:
the edifice consists of one aisle, with a steeple and spire 165 feet
high. Kydweli is a small neat town, a little distance from the coast ;
it is divided into what is called the Old and New Town, and only
separated by a bridge over the Wendroth. The old town (in Leland's
time) was well walled, with three gates, having over one the town-
hall, and under it a prison. In 990 this place was almost destroyed
by Edwin ap Einion, and afterwards (in 1093) it suffered considerably
by the Normans, who destroyed some of the principal houses, and
made a dreadful massacre of the inhabitants. The town is very
much decayed, but the castle is well worthy of observation, placed
on an elevated mount above a small river, and remarkable for the
perfect uniformity of its four round towers. The building is attri-
buted to King John, as is the town, though unconnected, and said to
belong to the Duchy of Lancaster, from which it derives some privi-
leges. The castle is neat, and well supported by a fair and double
wall. Alice de Londres, wife of the Duke of Lancaster, lived some
time in this fortress, which she repaired ; but it afterwards received
more alterations, in expectation of Henry the Seventh coming into
Wales. By the new town is an ordinary harbour, nearly choked with
sand, so that only small vessels are able to approach its quay. Here
was a priory of black monks, founded by Roger, Bishop of Salisbury,
in 1130, as a cell to Sherburn Abbey, and valued at £22.

On leaving Kydweli we proceed northerly, and at the distance of
eight miles, pass through Caermarthen, 20 miles beyond which we
arrive at Newcastle-in-Emlyn, or Dinas Emlyn, on the river Tawy :
it contains nothing remarkable, except the site of an ancient castle,
but of the superstructure thereof there is not a fragment remaining.

In

168 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

In 1215 we find it recorded of this fortress, that Llywelyn ap lorwerth
had won the castle, and subdued Camaes. The castle was one of
the principal residences of Sir Rhys ap Thomas; and some coins and
other vestiges of a Roman station are said to have been discovered
here. The situation of this town and the road to it from Caermar-
then is in general dreary and mountainous, which formerly subjected
the traveller to considerable danger, particularly from the numerous
and imperceptible turf-pits with which the neighbourhood abounded;
but it is now much improved.

Kryg-y-Dyrn is a remarkable tumulus in Trelech parish, being in
circumference sixty paces and in height six yards. It rises from an
easy ascent, and is hollow on the top, gently inclining from the cir-
cumference to the centre. This heap is chiefly composed of small
stones covered with turf, and may probably be called a carnedd. On
the top, in a small cavity, is a large flat stone of an oval form, about
three yards long and twelve inches thick. On searching under it was
found a cistvaen, or stone chest, four feet long and three broad, com-
posed of seven stones. About the outside, and within the chest, some
rough pieces of brick were found, also pieces of wrought free-stone,
with a great quantity of human bones. It is supposed to have been
the burial-place or sepulchre of some British chief before the Roman
conquest. " That it is older than Christianity (says the learned
Camden) there is no room to doubt."

Bwydd- Arthur, or " Arthur's Table," is on a mountain near Cil-y-
maen-llwyd, consisting of circular stones or monuments; the diameter
of the circle is about twenty yards, and is composed of extraordinarily
rude stones, pitched on their ends at unequal intervals, of three, four,
six, and eight feet in height ; they were originally 23 in number, but
now there are only 15 standing, eight of the smallest being carried
away for various purposes by the residents of the vicinity. The
entrance for above three yards is guarded on each side by small
stones, contiguous to each other, and opposite to this passage, at the
distance of about 300 yards, stand three more, considerably larger
and more rude than the preceding. — This country abounds with
small ancient forts, camps, and tumuli or barrows. About the year
1692 several gold coins were found in different parts of this county ;
and in the parish of Cynwyl Caeo, a few years ago, a beautiful gold
torques, now in the possession of John Johnes, Esq. was ploughed
up by his servants in the common field, the extremity of which was
adorned with a curious figure of a serpent of the same pure metal.
Another torques, adorned with the figure of a dolphin of the same
material, was dug up not a long time ago near the same spot ; and
Roman ornaments, though never searched for, are frequently disco-
vered. In digging for gravel to repair the roads, a common coarse
pebble was found here, with an amethyst in the middle of its upper
surface, which on examination proved to be a very valuable antique of

Diana ;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 169

Diana ; it is now also in the possession of John Johnes, Esq. — At a
place called Hen Llan, in this parish, there is a Roman causeway,
called by the inhabitants Sarn Helen, the usual appellation in the
principality for Roman roads, in honour of Helena, the mother of
Constantine the Great, whom they represent as a native of Wales.

Some vestiges of the chapel at Pump Saint, which was of consider-
able magnitude, remained within the memory of man : and in the
north-east extremity of the parish was anciently another chapel at
Court y Cadno, L e. " Fox Hall," but all traces of it are now obliterat-
ed : it is beautifully situate near the rivers Coethi and Twrch. In the
heroic elegies of Llywarch Hen, a celebrated poet, who flourished
from about the year 520 to 630, Caeo is called Caer Caeo, which
seems to imply, that it was then considered as a city, or, at least, as a
well-fortified place : and, from the magnitude of the church, it is
conjectured, that some monastic or ecclesiastical institution was
established here in the middle centuries. At the mines within this
parish, and which were doubtless worked by the Romans, is a well of
remarkably cold water, issuing from a rock, and considered formerly
as infallibly efficacious in rheumatic complaints. Near Briw Nant,
the seat of the Rev. Mr. Lloyd, and on the estate of John Johnes,
Esq. of D61 Coethi, are two sulphureous springs, which are supposed
to be superior to the wells in the counties of Brecknock and Radnor,
but they are scarcely known, and remain in a very neglected state.
A celebrated mineralogist, from an experiment made upon one of
them, found that the water was impregnated with a greater quantity
of sulphur than any spring that he had visited. Near Pump Saint,
is a chalybeate spring of great celebrity, for the many extraordinary
cures which it is reported to have effected.

At Maes Llan Wrthwl, in this parish, a great battle was fought
between the Romans and the ancient Britons, and a Roman general
was interred there. Under the threshold of the door, at the seat of
J. Bo wen, Esq. are the neglected fragments of a stone, with an inscrip-
tion, given by Camden, at length. There are several tumuli in
the neighbourhood, particularly near a bridge called Pont Rhyd
Remus, i. e. " the bridge on Remus's ford." Roman bricks are often
dug up in the adjacent fields. Tradition says, that a large town, called
Y Dref Goch yn Neheubarth, i. e. " the Red town in South Wales,"
was built here by the Roman soldiery, and that the houses were prin-
cipally constructed of brick. Near the summit of a hill, where at
present there is no water, are the ruins of a mill, called Melin Milwyr,
i. e. " the Soldier's Mill :" the traces of an aqueduct are observed
near the spot. The water was raised with immense labour, and
brought over the highest hills for many miles, and passed over the
excavated mountain, where they dug for ore, in order to wash away
the dross in the manner described by Pliny. It is hardly credible,
that a stream of the magnitude of the Coethi could be thus raised and

carried

170 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

carried so prodigious a distance over steep precipices ; but the
vestiges of the work are still visible, and excite every intelligent per-
son's admiration. Considerable quantities of gold are supposed to
have been obtained, of old time, in these mines.

In the parish of Eglwys Cymmyn, i. e. " the Communion Church,"
on the old chalice for communion service is inscribed in old letters —
" Poculum Ecclesiae de Eglon Skymine, 1574." Skymine signifies
(e bleak," and the church is situate high and is bare of trees." Here
is a place called Pwll Cogan, consisting of a few houses, which is
remarkable only for the mention of it in Sir John Pryse's History of
the Welsh Wars. There are also vestiges of a castle or fortification
in a field called Pen-coed, which is from thence called Castle Park ;
and another place called Peace Park, from the circumstance of a peace
having been concluded there, and which is also mentioned by Sir John
Pryse. Here are also two streams which, after a subterraneous pass-
age for some distance, empty themselves into the bay of Caermarthen.
According to tradition, the old parish church of Llan-Arthne was
carried away by the overflowing of the river Tywi, and the site there-
of to this day is called Hen Llan, or " the Old Church."— The
ancient chapel called Cappel Ddewi, on the banks of the Tywi, is
nearly in ruins.

In the churchyard of the parish of Llanfihangel-ar-ararth, close to
the west end of the church, is a Roman monumental stone with an
inscription. There are also the ruins of a chapel, called Pencader
Chapel, which has been in a neglected state for nearly a century. —
There are three tumuli in this parish.

In the parish of Llan-gyndeyrn there is a ruinous place adjoining
the church, called Hen Plas, or " the Old Mansion," the supposed
residence of an ancient potentate. There were two chapels in this
parish, one called Cappel Evan, now a farm-house, the other Cappel
Dyddgen, the roof of which is gone, but the walls are up, and its
present use is that of a hovel for cattle : the late tenant would not
plough up the chapel yard. — The seat of Miss Gwynne, called Glyn
Abbey, is supposed to have been an abbey or religious edifice for-
merly ; but the house having been completely altered, no appearance
of such a structure now remains.

In the parish of Llan-Gunog is a school, which tradition says was
founded in consequence of a cure effected on one of the Vaughans of
Derllys by a fountain called New Well, which springs near the site
on which the school now stands. This seems to carry with it a pro-
bability of truth, as upon a stone over the entrance of the school-room
is engraved — " This is a Charity School for ever, built at the recom-
mendation of the Archbishop of Canterbury, by the lord, freeholders,
and inhabitants of the manor of Penrin, A.D. 1705.

The parish church of Tal y Llychau was built out of the ruins of
the old abbey, about fifty years ago. There were formerly five

chapels

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 171

chapels in this parish, which is generally called Talley. The abbey
was a Premonstratensian Abbey, founded by Rhese son of Griffith,
Prince of South Wales, who died in 1197.-— It was dedicated to the
Blessed Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. — There are now consi-
derable remains of it in the church-yard. At the dissolution it had
eight canons.

Bach-Ynys is situate on the river Bary. This island is thought to
have been the place where Saint Piro, about A. D. 513, built a
monastery, which he himself was first abbot of, and wherein he was
succeeded by the elder Sampson.

Cil-y-Maenllwyd hath its church dedicated to Saint Philip and
Saint James. Here is a chapel in sufficient repair, called Castell
Dwy Rhann. Tradition says that there was formerly a castle near
the chapel.

Cynwyl. — The vestiges of an old chapel are still discernible on the
farm of Troed-y-Rhiw, in the northern part of this parish ; the wall
of the churchyard is easily traced ; the adjacent field is called Caer-
Hen-Eglwys: it is supposed to have been defaced in the reign of
Henry the Eighth, or perhaps sooner. The country here is full of
deep dingles and dorsal hills, all of which converge in a point at
Convil. The chalybeate spring of Ffosana is reported to have done
wonders : its virtues are very efficacious at this time, but the natives
prefer resorting to more fashionable though less sanative waters: its
constituent parts have been analyzed. — An unnoticed but very remark-
able piece of antiquity is to be seen in the north-west extremity of
this parish, viz. a druidical temple, or observatory. On the sideland
summit of a high mountain, facing the south, is a centre stone of
huge magnitude, being from 10 to 15 tons, placed horizontally,
oblong, and 2 feet thick, supported by four uprights, one of which
has declined from its original position, and sunk deeper into the
ground. Four other similar but smaller stones of about 4 or 5 tons
surround it ; but these are all slipt from their respective fulcra, and
lie now in a shelving position. Scattered about, at various and irre-
gular distances around, are several smaller stones, disturbed and
broken by the masons for the purpose of building. A crug or
tumulus of large circumference adjoins the temple: a wide flat
turbary surrounds it. The large stones are not the stones of the
country; they are hard, rough, flaky, brown, large-grained, and
seemingly weather-worn. — In the same parish is " The Line," a mile
and quarter long and about 17 feet high, which is said to have been
thrown up by Henry Earl of Richmond when on his way from
Milford Haven to meet Richard the Third.

Saint Ishmael. — This parish is situate on the banks of the navi-
gable river Tywi. There are some old walls, overgrown with ivy, on
a farm called Pen Allt, which, tradition says, was formerly a
monastery. The parish church is built upon a rock near the sea-
shore,

172 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

shore, and at high spring tides the waves wash within thirty yards of
its foundation. The small village, called Ferryside, is much resorted
to for the purpose of sea-bathing. About a mile from the village is
Iscoed, the seat of Sir William Mansell, Baronet. The chapel-of-
ease, called Llan-Saint-Cappel, or Halkin Church, is in good repair,
and duly served.

Llan-Ddarog hath its church dedicated to Saint Twrog, who lived
about the latter end of the fifth or beginning of the sixth century.
There are the remains of an old chapel in this parish, called Saint
Bernard's Chapel, and which has been in ruins for the last 150
years.

Llan-Dyfaelog hath its church dedicated to Saint Tyfaelog, of
whom no mention is made in history. About 30 years ago there was
a chapel in the lordship of Cloigin, being extra-parochial, and in
which no service was performed, except that of marriage: at present
not a vestige remains of it more than the foundations, the stones
being all carried off by the neighbours for their own private use. A
farm-house near the church, called Nant-Llan, is generally supposed
to have been a monastery. There is a spring of clear water on the
tenement ofPistyll, in the lordship of Cloigin, called Pistyll Gwynn,
famed in the memory of old people as a cure for sore eyes ; but it
is now disused and unfrequented. This is a very pleasant part of the
county. Salmon, sewin, and other fish are had here in great
abundance.

Llan-Dyfeisant is situate on the banks of the river Tywi. Part of
the town of Llan-Deilo-Fawr is in this parish. There is no mineral
spring in this parish; but it may not be unworthy of remark, that
there is a spring which ebbs and flows every day (the vulgar opinion
says) " with the tide," with which, however, it has no connexion.
It is conceived to be a mere natural syphon in the bowels of the
earth, which is not an uncommon phenomenon. This spring, or
rather the prill which issues from it, is called Nant-y-Rhybo, signify-
ing " the Bewitched Brook," the country-people in the dark ages
ascribing every thing to witchcraft which they could not otherwise
account for. This spring was noticed by Giraldus Cambrensis, and
his account is copied by various tourists. Dinefawr Castle is in this
parish, near the church. A few years ago, in levelling uneven ground
in the churchyard, were discovered the foundations of some Roman
walls ; and as the north-west corner of the church is placed on the
fragment of a Roman edifice, it is not improbable that the church
might have been built on the ruins of a Roman temple. Twenty
years ago, a pot of Roman coins was found in the parish, within 300
yards of the church ; a few of which were in the possession of the
Rev. Thomas Beynon.

Llan-Egwad hath its church dedicated to Egwad, a saint who
lived about the close of the seventh century: it is intersected by

the

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 173

the river Coethi, which here falls into the Tywi. There were
formerly several chapels, but of which no vestiges remain at present,
excepting of one, called Cappel-Gwilym-Foethus, near Coethi
bridge, and which has been in ruins more than a century.

Llan-Elly hath its church dedicated to Saint Elliw. The chapels
of Berwick and Ddewi are in ruins. The chapel of Saint John has
been repaired by subscription, and is now used by the methodists.

Llanfair-y-Bryn. — The church consists of one large circle, and
(what is rather singular) is situated in the parish of Llan-Dingad,
and about a mile distant from the nearest part of its own parish : it
has a tower, which is about 60 feet high. It is also particularly
worthy of notice, that the church is built on or near the site of a
Roman station, as Roman antiquities have frequently been found in
the neighbourhood. There are extensive lead mines in Rhandir
Abbot, about 6 or 7 miles north of the church. The principal seats
in this parish are Glanbran Park, the residence of Sackville Gwynne,
Esq. and Cynghordy, the residence of the Rev. Pryce Jones.

Llanfihangel-Aber-Bythych hath its chapel dedicated to Saint
Michael. The parish derives its name from its locality, being situate
at the confluence of a brook called Bythych with the river Tywi ; part
of it lies within the Duchy of Lancaster. There is an open mountain
in this parish, which extends to three other parishes, called Mynydd
Mawr, L e. " the Great Mountain." Golden Grove, the ancient seat
of the Vaughans Earls of Carbery, and now the property of the
Right Hon. Lord Cawdor, is situate in this parish. Oliver Crom-
well, in his way to besiege Pembroke Castle, came suddenly across
the country with a troop of horse, to Golden Grove, with an intent
to seize the person of Richard Earl of Carbery, who was a royalist.
The Earl, having fortunately had notice of his approach, retired to a
sequestered farm-house among the hills ; and the Protector, having
dined at Golden Grove with the Countess of Carbery, in the afternoon
pursued his march to Pembroke. — The great Jeremy Taylor, D. D.
Chaplain to King Charles the First, and afterwards Lord Bishop of
Down and Connor, lived several years at Golden Grove during the
.usurpation, under the protection of this loyal Earl, to whom some of
his works are dedicated. — There is a small British encampment now
remaining, pretty perfect, in this parish.

Llanfihangel Rhos y Corn. It is supposed that there was a chapel
.here formerly, as there is a well, called Ffynnon Cappel, and near it
.an old yew tree. A turbary extends close to the bank whereon the
church stands.

Llan Gathan hath its church dedicated to Cathan, a saint and
founder of some churches in Wales about the commencement of the
seventh century. There are the vestiges of an old chapel, within half
a mile of the church, called Cappel Pen Arw ; near to which there is
a spring^ formerly supposed to have been of great efficacy in curing

sore

174 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

sore eyes and rheumatism. The castle of Drys Llwyn and the
celebrated Grongar Hill are also situate in this parish.

Llan Llwny hath its church dedicated to Llonio, a saint of the
congregation of Illtyd, in the middle of the sixth century. It is situate
on the south bank of the river Teifi. On a farm called Maes Nonny,
i. e. <( the nun's field," are the remains of a nunnery, where is also a
tumulus, called Y Castell, or the Castle. Here is likewise a spring,
called Ffynnon Nonny, or the Nun's Spring. Near the church are
some remains of an old priory, called by the parishioners Briordy.
This nunnery or priory are neither of them mentioned in Tanner's
Notitia Monastica.

Llan Sadwra hath its church dedicated to Sadwrn, a saint who
lived in the latter part of the fifth and beginning of the sixth centuries.
There was in this parish a very ancient mansion, called Abermarles,
belonging to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, Knight of the Garter. It is
mentioned in Leland's Itinerary, and called " a fair house of old Sir
Rees's." Rhys ap Grufydd, the grandson of Sir Rhys ap Thomas,
was attainted of high treason in the reign of King Henry the Eighth,
and the estate became forfeited, and was granted by the Crown to Sir
Thomas Johnes, Knight. It afterwards came by marriage to Sir
Francis Cornwallis, of the county of Suffolk, Knight. His stm,
Francis Cornwallis, died, leaving four daughters, co-heiresses ; the
three youngest of whom married and had a numerous issue : the estate
was divided among their descendants in the year 1793, and the old
mansion, demesne, park, and manor, fell to the lot of the late Viscount
Hawarden, of the kingdom of Ireland, who sold them to Captain
(afterwards Admiral) Thomas Foley, who has built a handsome
house out of the ruins of the old mansion. Admiral Foley, while
a post captain, distinguished himself much in the service of his
country : he led the fleet to action at the battle of the Nile ; he
commanded the Britannia in Lord St. Vincent's gallant action ; and
Lord Nelson shifted his flag on board his ship at the battle of Copen-
hagen.

Llan Sadwrnon hath its church dedicated to St. Sadwrnon. In
this parish are the ruins of Broadway House, formerly the residence
of John Powel, Esq. Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and Keeper
of the Great Seal. He was one of the judges who sat on the trial of
the seven bishops, and who were sent to the tower by the order of
King James the Second, in the year 1688. He was buried in the
chancel of the church of Llacharn, where an elegant monument is
erected to his memory. He died in 1696, aged 63. — There is also a
curious and beautiful cavern in a lime-stone hill here, called Coegen.

Llan Sawyl is pleasantly situated on a branch of the Coethi. John
Thomas Phillips, preceptor to William Duke of Cumberland and
several of the royal family, and whose Latin epistles are so well
known, was a native of this parish, and left to it £60 per annum by

will

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 175

will to support a charity school, but he having died before the will
was properly executed, the legacy was lost. The Pughs, of Clun-y-
March, have a seat in this parish, and the family has flourished here
for many years. Rh>7d Odyn, or e( Edwin's Ford," is the seat of the
very ancient family of Williams, whose ancestors have at various
periods represented the county in parliament for many generations,
and so far back as the reign of King Henry the Eighth ; it is situate
in a delightful vale on the banks of the Coethi. Sir Nicholas Wil-
liams, Baronet, one of the maternal ancestors of the present proprietor,
erected a singular conical structure called Pigyn Nicholas, i. e.
" Nicholas's Peak," upon the summit of one of the most elevated
hills, which was conspicuous at an immense distance; it had several
extensive rooms, and might probably have been used as a fortress : but
latterly it was only a place of amusement, and through the inattention
of the proprietors was suffered to fall into decay, and is now in ruins.

Llan-y-Crwys. — The small river Twrch flows near the church, and
divides this parish from that of Caeo. On a common near its sum-
mit is a large long stone, called Hir Faen, about five yards high,
fixed perpendicularly, but for what purpose is not known: it is
supposed by some persons to have been erected for a mark or guide
for the shepherds or others occasionally traversing the common,
though it is most probable that it was put up when a perambulation
was made, as it stands where not only the two parishes of Llan-y-
Crwys and Cellan join, but also where the two counties of Caermar-
then and Cardigan are united.

Myddfai hath its church dedicated to Saint Michael. — Adjacent to
the vicarage is a field, called Monks Field : there are also two tumps
or hillocks, one near the river Bran, and the other near the river
Usk. Here are two king's mills, viz. Cil-Gwynn and Bran; each of
which pays £2 annually to the lord of the manor. This parish is
surrounded by seven different rivers. There is a parish register at
Myddfai, written in Latin during the time of Oliver Cromwell, by
which it appears that John Powell, Esq. then married every couple
at church ; it is signed by himself. On the marriage of the daughters
of every freeholder in Myddfai there is a fee of one shilling due to the
lord of the manor, in lieu of the first night's lodging with the bride,
and which every freeholder in the hundred of Perfedd is obliged to
pay according to an ancient custom. In the chancel is a monument
to Erasmus Williams, Esq. of Llwvn-y -Wormwood, and a tomb-stone
in memory of the Right Rev. Morgan Owen, Lord Bishop of
LlandafF, buried in 1644. In the churchyard is interred William
Price, Gent, who left legacies to 40 children and grand-children ; he
was related to Lord Crewe and Admiral Curtis. There are also in
the churchyard an yew-tree 25 feet in circumference, and a sycamore
whose diameter is 18 feet. This parish is esteemed one of the

richest
G g

176 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

richest in the county: it abounds with beautiful prospects and the
seats of ancient families. Near the ruins of the chapel of D61-
Hywel thirty small silver coins were discovered in 1807. Myddfai is
famous for the physicians, who lived there in the thirteenth century.
One of these, Rhiwallon, according to Mr. Owen, lived here early in
the thirteenth century, and, in conjunction with his three sons,
Cadwgan, Gruffydd, and Einion, drew up a full account of the
practice of physic as then known to them; and the original manu-
script which he wrote seems to be the one preserved in the Welsh
Charity School in London, of which there are several old copies. It
is worthy of notice, that the descendants of Rhiwallon, without inter-
mission, continued as practitioners in physic at Myddfai until writhin
the memory of people living in 1809. Phylip Feddyg was one of the
long line of practitioners here descended from Rhiwallon : he revised
and enlarged the work of his ancestor ; and the labours of both of
them are preserved, which are not only very curious but also valuable
for the knowledge displayed in them. Phylip lived from about 1330
to 1380.

New Church, or Llan-Newydd. — There is a stone pillar on the
side of the road near the church with the following inscription, now
almost obliterated: — " Sepulchrum Severini films Severi:" and
within a mile eastward of the church, and near the ruins of an old
chapel (which is now converted into a barn), there is a circular
mound, which has much the appearance of a Roman encampment.

Penboyr hath its church dedicated to Llawddog, a saint who lived
about the year 520. Here is a mineral spring lately discovered,
called Rebecca's Well, which is much resorted to. In the parish are
several tumuli, and also the remains of a Roman encampment, of
which the churchyard constitutes a part. Round the churchyard is
a well-cemented wall, 7 feet high, built at the expense of the then
Rector, the Rev. Thomas Beynon. At a farm, called Bron-Rhufain,
a pot of Roman coins was discovered a few years ago ; and there are
still many traces of Roman vestiges and roads in this and the neigh-
bouring parishes. There is also a chapel here, called Trinity Chapel,
in which Divine Service is performed every Sunday in the summer,
and every other Sunday in the winter season.

Pen-Bre. — There is an extensive common in this parish, used as a
sheep-walk, and at times overflowed by the tide, the right to which
is chiefly attached to certain farms in the adjoining parishes : it is
computed that from eight thousand to ten thousand sheep depasture
there for eight months in the year. The name implies the head or
extremity of an isthmus, which this parish forms. The chapel of
Llandurry in this parish is served in the summer months ; and Trym-
saran, an ancient seat of the Mansel family, is situate here, but the
title and name are now extinct.

Pencader, — The chapel of this place is now in ruins. Here Henry

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 177

the Second received homage and pledges from Rhys, Prince of South
Wales in 1163.

The following eminent persons were natives or inhabitants of this
county: — Rev. Rhys Prichard, A.M.; Merddyn Emrys, astrologer
and prophet; Rev. Josiah Tucker, D. D. Dean of Gloucester, and
a political writer; Sir John ap Rhys, historian; Admiral Foley;
John Powell, Esq. Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas, and
Keeper of the Great Seal ; John Thomas Phillips, poet, preceptor to
William Duke of Cumberland; Rhiwallon, a celebrated physician;
also his sons, Cadwgan, Gruffydd, and Einion; Phylip Feddyg, a
descendant of Rhiwallon, physician; and Sir Rhys ap Thomas.

PEMBROKESHIRE

J. S well watered by springs rising in the slopes, so as to give a
convenient supply to the adjacent lands in general ; but some part of
the coast is in want of water in the summer season, particularly where
limestone is found at a moderate depth. The prevailing state of the
air is moist ; and there is probably more rain here than in any other
part of the kingdom, owing to the insular situation, and the high
mountains of Caermarthenshire and Breconshire lying eastward,
which stop the current of the clouds brought by the westerly winds
from the Atlantic ocean, and occasion thereby torrents of rain to
descend in Pembrokeshire whenever those winds prevail. Woods
are rather scarce, particularly towards the western coast. The prin-
cipal river is the Cleddau east and west, which, rising in the northern
part, unite at a small distance from Milford Haven.

PEMBROKE,

the county town, consists principally of one long street, reaching from
the east gate to the west. The town stands on an arm of Milford
Haven, and is built on a rocky situation : it was well walled, and had
three gates, of which the eastern is the fairest, having before it a
tower and in the entrance a portcullis. In the reign of William
Rufus, Arnulph de Montgomery, brother to Robert Earl of Shrews-
bury, fortified it with walls, and built the castle (but very meanly)
with stakes and green turf. This structure being burnt down, Henry
the First rebuilt the castle, which covers the whole of a great mount
that descends in a perpendicular cliff on each side, except towards the
town, where it is almost encompassed by one of those winding estu-
aries which, being fed by some small rivers, penetrate into the county
towards Milford Haven. The castle stands on a hard rock, and is
very large and strong, and double warded. In the outer ward is the

G g 2 chamber

178 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

chamber where Henry the Seventh was born, in remembrance of
which a chimney hath on it his arms and badge. In the bottom of the
large round tower, in the inner ward, is a vault, called Wogan or
Hogan, remarkable for its echo. The top of this tower is gathered
with a roof like a cone, and covered with a millstone, but the greater
part is now in ruins. The remains are of Norman architecture,
mixed with early gothic. The walls of the tower are four feet thick,
and the diameter of the space within twenty-five ; the height from
the ground to the dome 75 feet, but visible marks appear within that
its height was originally divided by four floors. In 1648, Colonels
Langhorn, Powell, and Poynor, being displeased with the parliament,
declared for the king, and held this town and castle four months;
but Cromwell obliged them to surrender, and afterwards dismantled
the castle. Some round stones, which the besiegers fired against the
castle to kill the garrison by shivering the pavement, have been found
in the area, now a bowling green. Many bones of the besiegers
killed in a pursuit, and buried on St. Cyrian's hills, two miles from
Tenby, were found in 1761. Here was a priory, founded for Bene-
dictines by the Earl of Pembroke in 1098, afterwards a cell to Saint
Alban's, and at its dissolution valued at £57. On a hill south of the
town, and in the parish of St. Mary, stands Saint Daniel's church,
which is now private property ; it has a high and handsome tower
and spire, but nothing is known among the inhabitants at what period
it became private property ; and it has frequently been sold with the
adjoining lands. Arnulph Earl of Pembroke, having given the
church of Saint Nicholas within the castle of Pembroke, and twenty
carucates of land, in the year 1098, to the Abbey of Saint Martin, at
Sayes in Normandy, here was shortly after a Benedictine priory
erected, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, and made a cell to that foreign
abbey. William and Walter Mareschal, Earls of Pembroke, were
benefactors to it. King Edward the Third seized it into his hands
when he had wars with France, and King Henry the Fourth restored
it, but being seized again, it was granted (1 9th Henry VI.) to Hum-
phrey Duke of Gloucester, who gave it (21st Henry VI.) as a cell to
Saint Alban's, and the king confirmed his gift in the twenty-seventh
year of his reign. It was granted (37th Henry VIII.) to John
Vaughan and Catherine his wife. — There is a building adjoining the
churchyard on the east called Monkton Hall, but it is doubtful whe-
ther it belonged to the priory: it has the marks of considerable
antiquity, and has long been in the possession of the Owens of
Orielton, which is in the parish of Saint Nicholas. Here was also
a hospital, dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene, of the yearly value of
£1. 6s. 8d. This chapel, which is in the parish of Saint Michael,
stands upon the lands of J. Adams, Esq. and is now in ruins. — Near
Pembroke is Stackpool Court, the elegant mansion of Lord Cawdor,
surrounded with fine plantations ; and on the coast contiguous is the

chapel

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 179

chapel and legendary well of Saint Govin, reputed to be miraculous
for the cure of various diseases.

Two miles off is Lamphey, having its church dedicated to Saint
Faith. This saint was born at Pais de Gavre, in France, and suf-
fered martyrdom under Dacianus, A. D. 290. Lamphey is a pleasant
village, situate on a gentle ascent, but chiefly noticed for the ancient
castellated mansion of Lamphey Court, one of the seven palaces of the
Bishop of Saint David's, afterwards a seat of the Earl of Essex, and
at present tolerably entire, with some features of gothic elegance.

MILFORD HAVEN

appears like an immense lake, formed by a great advance of the sea
into the land for the space of about ten miles from the south to Pem-
broke, beyond which the tide comes up to Carew Castle. It is
sufficiently wide and spacious to hold the whole British navy ; the
spring tides rise here 36 feet, and the neap above 26 feet, so that ships
may be sent out of this harbour in an hour's time, and in eight or nine
hours be over at Ireland, or the Land's End, and this with almost
any wind, day or night. There is no place in Great Britain or
Ireland where nature has bestowed more conveniences for the building
of ships of war, and for erecting forts, docks, quays, and magazines,
than Milford, which has greater extent and depth of water than any
other port in the kingdom. There are, besides, several places where
forts may be erected at a very small expense, which would render it
secure from any attack of an enemy.

On leaving Pembroke, we proceed in a north-easterly direction,
and, at the distance of four miles, pass Carew Castle, in the parish of
Carew, or Caer Yw, which hath its church dedicated to St. John the
Baptist. The castle is situate on a gentle erninence above an arm of
Milford Haven. Its remains indicate it to have been a stately fortress
and the work of different ages : the north side of the castle exhibits
the mode of building in the time of Henry the Eighth, but scarcely
castellated ; from the level of this side the windows are square, and
of grand dimensions, projecting in large bows, and internally richly
ornamented with a chimney-piece of Corinthian columns, which
appear among the latest decorations of this magnificent edifice. The
great hall, built in the decorated Gothic style, measuring 80 feet by 30,
is much dilapidated, but still a noble relic of antique grandeur: the
other parts of the building are of a more remote date, and most of the
walls seem remarkably thick and of solid masonry. It was formerly
the property of Gerald de Carrio and his descendants, until Edmund
mortgaged the castle to Sir Rhys ap Thomas. It was afterwards
forfeited to Henry the Eighth, who granted it to Sir John Perrot, but
it was soon afterwards purchased by Sir John Carew, kinsman and
heir of Sir Edmund, to whom King Charles the First restored the
fee-simple and inheritance, and from whom it descended to the

present

180 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

present owner. It was, according to Leland, rebuilt by Rhys ap
Thomas in the reign of Henry the Seventh, consisting of a range of
apartments, erected round a quadrangle, with a round tower at each
corner. The north has a noble hall, 120 feet by 20, built by Sir
John Perrot, who entertained here the Duke of Ormond in the year
1553, and afterwards retired to it at the expiration of his deputy ship
in Ireland. On the west side of the gateway are the arms of Eng-
land, of the Duke of Lancaster, and of the Carew family, with an
elegant room contiguous.

Seven miles south-east of Carew is the town of Tenby, or Dinbych
y Pysgod, singularly situated on the steep ascent of a long and narrow
rock, with the bay on one side, and the western coast on the other,
being only divided by a narrow tract of land occasionally overflowed
by the sea. The extraordinary intermixture of wood, rocks, and
houses, together with the lofty spire of the church, dedicated to St.
Mary, give the place a very romantic appearance ; but the extensive
sea views have a still more pleasing effect. The beauty of its situation,
and its fine sands, have exalted Tenby from an obscure seaport to a
considerable town, where the influx of company is often very great, in
consequence of which it has received great improvement, and is
embellished with several good modern buildings and a commodious
hotel : the sands are pleasant, and the conveniences for bathing are
excellent, besides the hot and cold baths of Sir William Paxton on a
grand scale. The town has been well walled, with strong gates, each
having a portcullis, and that leading to Caermarthen being circled on
the outside, with an embattled but opened roof tower, after the
manner of Pembroke. It has of late years become a place of resort as
a watering place, and seems to bear the bell from most places of that
description in Wales: during tUe summer months the influx of
strangers is very great and respectable : the beach is covered with a
fine sand, and sheltered by cliffs behind, and in front by high rocks
rising out of the sea. affording a desirable seclusion to persons bathing.
The church is a large handsome edifice of very ancient appearance :
the western door exhibits a very curious mixture of the Gothic or
Saracenic style of architecture, and the whole edifice is perhaps one of
the largest buildings in the Principality; consisting of three broad
aisles, nearly of the same dimension, except the nave, which is rather
higher, and prolonged beyond the two former. A carved ceiling,
formed of wood, ornamented at the intersection of the ribs, with
various armorial bearings, and supported by human figures, springing
from pillars of wood, is a remarkable singularity in this edifice. Here
are several fine old monuments, particularly two of gypsum, with the
sides highly ornamented with good basso-relievos; and at the west
end is another erected to the memory of John More, in 1639. King
Henry the Seventh is said to have borne great affection to this town
for eminent services rendered him when he was obliged to leave the

realm ;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES 181

realm; and his gratitude was afterwards evinced to his great bene-
factor and strenuous adherent, Mr. Griffith White, then Mayor, by
granting him a lease of all the crown lands about Tenby. According
to Bishop Tanner, there was an hospital or lazar-house, dedicated to
St. Mary Magdalene, near Tenby, for the king's tenants, under the
government of the Mayor, of the yearly value of 40s. ; and also an
hospital or free chapel of St. John the Baptist, of the yearly value of
£6. Near Tenby shore are the small islands of St. Catharine and
Caldy, or Ynyspyr, i. e. " the Island of the Lords," it was formerly
the property of the Barre family. The Abbey pf St. Dogmael had
this small island by the gift of Robert Fitz Martin's mother, and
before the dissolution had a cell here.

Resuming our road, at the distance of about eight miles from Carew
castle, we arrive at Arberth, or Narberth, which Leland calls "a little
place, a little pretty pile of old Sir Rhys, given unto him by King
Henry the Eighth." It is a poor little village, and by it is a small
forest. On entering Arberth, the old castle stands on an eminence on
the right, and affords a fine object for the artist; as a piece of romantic
scenery, it affords considerable pleasure to the contemplative anti-
quary ; while the turrets, which separate the keep from its exterior,
evince it to have been extremely grand and cumbrous in its ancient
state. By whom or when this castle was built is uncertain, but it is
believed to have been built by Sir Andrew Perrot, and was the
residence of the ancient Barons of Narberth : it suffered much during
the usurpation of Oliver Cromwell. Leland describes it to be in
ruins in his time. The church is dedicated to St. Andrew. At
Templetown, a village in the south-east part of this parish, is a chapel
now in ruins, and which is thought to have belonged formerly to some
of the order of the Knights Templars of St. John of Jerusalem. It is
said to take its name from having been the favourite resort of the knights
during the season in which they enjoyed the recreation of hunting.

About one mile from Narberth we take a westerly direction, and at
the distance of about eight miles we pass through

HAVERFORDWEST,

or Castell Hwlffordd, a large town, descending in several steep streets
from the top of an high hill to a branch of the Haven, from whence it
derives its commercial importance, and may be properly called the
modern capital of the county : it is also become, from its great extent
and superior decorations, the seat of the Assizes, besides having
the appearance of greater opulence and trade than falls to the lot of
most Welsh Towns. Among the public concerns of this place are a
good quay and custom-house, free school, charity school, and alms-
house. Of its three churches, St. Mary's, St. Martin's, and St.
Thomas's, that of St. Mary's is the most elegant. With all these
advantages, it has many ill-paved streets, but several very good houses,
which, though widely interspersed about the place, do in some

measure

182 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

measure compensate for the inconvenience of avenues almost uniformly
steep and slippery, with the ground floors in some parts overlooking
the neighbouring roofs. The town was formerly fortified by a strong
wall or rampart, having on the western summit the shell of "an exten-
sive castle commanding the town, and built by Gilbert Earl of Clare
in the reign of Stephen : a great part is still standing, and lately con-
verted into a gaol. It had formerly an outer gate, with two port-
cullises, and an inner one. The walls were strong and well fortified,
with a rampart and castle in the parish of St. Martin, with towers,
supposed to have been destroyed in the civil wars in the reign of
Charles the First. Here is likewise a good parade commanding an
extensive view of the neighbouring county, and the ruins of an ancient
abbey extending a considerable way by the side of the hill : at the
extremity of this walk stand the ruins of an ancient priory of Black
Canons, erected before the year 1200, dedicated to St. Mary and
St. Thomas the Martyr, and liberally endowed, if not founded, by
Robert de Haverford, Lord of this place, who bestowed on it several
churches and tythes within the barony, which were afterwards con-
firmed by Edward the Third. The remains are now very considerable,
particularly the chapel, which has still one arch in good preservation
and beautifully inwreathed with a rich drapery of ivy, and some fine
specimens of Gothic workmanship. There was also " a house of
Black Friars within the town, granted 38th Henry VIII. to Roger
and Thomas Barlow." There is a remarkable echo on the south-side
of the castle.

About four miles south of Haverfordwest are the remains of a
priory, called Pilla, or Pille Rose, situate in the parish of Stanton, or
Staintown, the church of which is dedicated to St. Peter, and founded
by Adam de Rupe, about the year 1200, for Monks of the order of
Trione, who in time forsook that strict rule and became afterwards
Benedictines. At the dissolution it was granted to Roger and
Thomas Barlow : a very small portion of it now remains, having been
greatly diminished within the memory of man, by pulling parts down
and using the stones in other buildings. This house was dedicated
to St. Mary and St. Budoc, and is said to have been subordinate to
St. Dogmael's. Near the village of Pille, in this parish, are the ruins
of an old chapel or chantry with an arched roof, and nearly entire,
now used as a gunpowder magazine for two batteries, one of two guns
at Milford, and the other of seven guns, on an opposite point, at
Hakin. Here the late Sir William James, Bart, who was an honour
to the county of Pembroke, went first to school, and laid the founda-
tion of those acquirements which proved so beneficial to his country.

At the distance of five miles south-east is Picton Castle, the seat of
the late Lord Milford, and now of his representative, whose extensive
domains cover a great tract of country. It is situate near the East
Cleddau, and is one of the most ancient residences in the kin gdom

having

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 183

having been built by William Picton, a Norman knight, in the reign
of William Rut us. During the civil wars, Sir Richard Phillips made
a long and vigorous defence in it for Charles the First. The extensive
plantations which environ this seat render the whole a beautiful
retreat.

Three miles north of Picton Castle is Wyston, or Whiston, in
the Welsh " Castell Gwys," having its church dedicated to Saint
Mary. It is a small corporate town, and was formerly defended by
a magnificent castle, which has been for many years neglected, though
now rendered habitable, and the internal part modernised, which
renders the whole an agreeable residence. This was the ancient seat
of the Wogans, and was the head of the barony of Dau Gleddau.

Gwyr is a small district, inhabited by a colony of Flemings, who
settled here in the reign of Henry the First. In Caradoc's Chronicle
of Wales we find that a great number of Flemings, having been driven
out of their habitations by a very extraordinary inundation of the sea,
sought protection in England, where they were cordially received;
but when these people began to disperse themselves along the king-
dom, and their number increase, it began to create some uneasiness,
which Henry the First remedied by removing or settling them as a
colony in South W'ales ; therefore he gave them the country adjoining
to Tenby and Haverfordwest. By this policy the king rid his own
dominions of an incumbrance, at the same time fixing a curb on the
restless Cambrians. This little territory, which the Flemings inha-
bit, the Welsh call Gwyr, and the English often " Little England
beyond Wales," because their language and manners are still distin-
guishable from the Welsh, for in point of speech they nearly assi-
milate the English. The descendants of this colony, or the present
inhabitants of Gwyr, seldom intermarry with the Welsh, but appear
rather averse from the language and manners of the country they
inhabit. Both sexes among the Flemings distinguish themselves by
wearing a short cloak, generally called a Gwyr Wittle.

Returning on our road, on leaving Haverfordwest, our route lies in
a northerly direction, and at the distance of about 1 1 miles we arrive
at Fishguard, or Aber-Gwayn, which stands on a steep rock, with a
convenient harbour, formed by the Gwain river, over-hanging an
exceedingly high mountain, along the side of which is cut a narrow
road, scarcely wide enough to admit two horses abreast. This port
is almost the only one from the Mersey to the Severn, whose entrance
is bold and safe, not obstructed by shoals or bars, and has been
proved to be an object of national attention. The principal exports
are oats and butter : the imports are shop goods from Bristol, culm,
coal, lime, and timber. Here is carried on a general fishery, but not
to that extent of which it is capable, employing at present about 30
or 40 boats, which begin about the end of harvest and continue to
Christmas. Fishguard is properly divided into the upper and lower

town:

184 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

town : the upper is situate on a considerable eminence above the
harbour, containing the church (dedicated to Saint Mary), market-
place, shops, and inns ; the lower occupies the eastern side of the
river and port, in a single and double row of buildings of a considera-
ble length from south to north, bounded by the pier, and-^ossessing
all the advantages for trade. At the entrance of the harbour is a
small fort, mounted with a battery, at the expense of Sir Hugh
Owen, Bart. It may be said of Fishguard bay in general, that ships
of the largest size may anchor in all parts of it with south-east,
southerly, and westerly winds, in perfect safety. The road in general
may contain above a hundred sail ofvessels, large and small, sheltered
from all winds except north-north-west to north-east. The harbour
of Fishguard is of an irregular form, but capacious and easy of
access, having neither rock nor bar at its entry, which is about 1160
feet wide and about 2400 feet in length. The Irish packets often put
in here. There are the ruins of an ancient ecclesiastical building,
called Cappel Llanfihangel, in the east end of the parish ; and also
the ruins of two other churches, called Llanfarthin and Llanist; and
it is supposed that the modern parish of Fishguard composed two
parishes before the present church was built. It was formerly part of
the possessions of the abbey of Saint Dogmael, and granted away at
the dissolution of religious houses in the reign of King Henry the
Eighth. Here is a fine mineral spring, which was found to be effica-
cious in curing numbness of the limbs ; and on enclosing it, about 40
years ago, a stone was discovered, with a motto in antient Greek
characters. Near the churchyard, a few yards from the north-east
wall, is a most remarkable echo. The town has still the ruins of an
old castle, built by the descendants of Martin de Tours, in which
place Rhys ap Gruflfydd, Prince of South Wales, was confined. The
castle was demolished by Llywelyn when in the possession of the
Flemings, and has now only the gateway left. Between the church
and the river is a vast stone of nine tons weight and about nine feet in
diameter, resting on others, and forming a cromlech. In the neigh-
bourhood are several of the latter, or cistvaens, contained within the
circuit of sixty yards, and standing near the road side. Fishguard is
rendered memorable, likewise, by the French invasion near Llan-
wnda (alias Llan Anno) church, where they landed on February 22d,
1797, to the number of about 1400 men. On this occasion the
greatest exertions were used by the chief men of the county to collect
what small force they could, which arrived at Fishguard the same
evening, consisting of the Pembrokeshire Fencibles, 100; part of the
Cardiganshire Militia, 200; Fishguard and Newport Fencibles, 300;
and Lord Cawdor's troop of Cavalry, 60; total 660. These men,
though properly trained to the use of the musket, had never seen one
fired in anger ; but many of the officers had been long in the service,
and were experienced in the art of war. To these must be added a

great

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 185

great many gentlemen volunteers, and colliers, and the common
people of all descriptions, armed and unarmed; the whole of which
were very judiciously placed on Goodrich sands, under Fishguard.
Fortunately, on the following evening, about ten o'clock, a French
officer arrived with offers to surrender in the morning, which they
accordingly did, and gave up their arms, when they were marched
from hence to Haverfordwest, and confined in several places, as the
castle, church, and store-house, but were soon after removed to
Milford, and put in prison ships. Thus ended this singular expedi-
tion, the object of which remains enveloped in mystery ; but it is
evident something more was intended than was effected, by the quan-
tity of powder brought with them, amounting to about 70 cart loads,
and a great number of hand-grenades.

About six miles from Fishguard is Newport, or Tref Draeth, a
small corporate town, seated on the foot of a high hill near the sea
shore, with a good annual fair for cattle, &c. It has some fragments
remaining of a stupendous fortress, but too mutilated to merit descrip-
tion. The church, dedicated to Saint Mary, is a tolerable structure ;
and there are upwards of two hundred houses, with good paved
streets. Here the river Nefern is navigable, and runs by one end of
the town, but the trade of this place is very inconsiderable. In the
churchyard near the town are several druidical sepulchres and altars,
one of which is about nine feet in diameter, and of a conical form and
well preserved, considering in what period it was probably erected. —
There was a house of Augustine friars here.

" In the churchyard at Nefern, the church of which is dedicated to
Saint Brynach or Bernagha, a renowned British abbot, who flourished
in the fifth century (observes Mr. Gibson), on the north side, is a
rude stone pitched on end, about two yards in height, of a triquatrous
form, with another smaller angle, having on the south side an inscrip-
tion, which seems older than the foundation of the church, and was
perhaps the epitaph of a Roman soldier, for I guess it must be read
Vitelliani Emeriti" In the same churchyard, on the south side, is
erected a handsome pillar as the shaft or pedestal of a cross, supposed
to be British ; it is of a quadrangular form, about two feet broad,
18 inches thick, and 13 feet high, neatly carved on all sides, with
certain endless knots, which are about thirty-one in number, and all
different : the top is covered with a cross stone, below which there is
a cross carved on the east and west sides, and about the middle there
are some letters, which perhaps are no other than the initials of those
persons by whom it was erected. There is also an inscription within
this church, which is equally obscure, and seems more like Greek
than Roman characters : the stone is pitched on one end not two feet
high, and is round at top, about which the letters are cut. Near
Pentre Evan, in the same parish, is a remarkable cromlech, and this
neighbourhood abounds with druidical antiquities. The castle is
demolished.

Ten

186 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Ten miles east of Newport is Kilgerran, or Cilgaran (having its
church dedicated to Ciaran, a saint who founded the Abbey of
Clonmacknois on the Shannon, in the 6th century), which consists of
one irregular street. It stands on a steep hill at the extremity of a
remote corner of Pembrokeshire, and has some remains of an old
castle, projecting proudly over the river, which winds beautifully
between the steep banks, thickly fringed with wood and interspersed
with rocks, while the opposite seat and groves of Coedmore add con-
siderably to the natural beauty of the prospect. Of the castle two
round towers are all that remain, situate at the extremity of a long
street. When this became a military station is not known ; but
Rhys, Prince of South Wales, took the castle in 1164, and razed it to
the ground, and afterwards rebuilt it in 1 165, wherein he was
besieged by a numerous army of Normans and Flemings, without
success. In 1205 it was surrendered to William Marshall, Earl of
Pembroke, and restored to Llewelyn ap lorwerth in 1215 ; but on the
death of Gruffydd, the son of Llewelyn ap lorwerth, near Kydweli,
the Earl again took possession, and began to build a very strong
castle, but being re-called to London by Henry the Third before the
completion, it was never finished. There are vestiges of a chapel in
the castle, called Cappel Bach. Through this village runs a small
river, called the Teifi, which generally affords the traveller some
curious observations, particularly the numerous coracles which stand
at almost every door.

Two miles from Nefern is Saint Dogfael Abbey, in the parish of
Saint Dogfael, to whom the church is dedicated ; this saint lived
about the middle of the seventh century. The abbey, situated in a
vale encompassed by hills, was founded for Benedictines in the time
of William the Conqueror, and was valued at £87. 8s. 6d. Some
ruins, which constitute part of the chapel, remain. In the latter was
found a stone, with some unintelligible inscription, but by the charac-
ters thought to be British. In the neighbourhood are several barrows
and a few heaps of stones (said to have been druidical altars, but at
present in a state of total ruin), wherein have been found urns, &c.
The most remarkable are in Cemaes barony ; and on a hill called Kil
Rhedyn there are three Danish encampments — one at a place called
Wolf's Castle, with three tumuli near it, and two at Sealyham, in the
centre of one of which is a rocking stone. There is a strong chaly-
beate spring near the church, efficacious in consumptions.
About fifteen miles south of Fishguard is the city of

SAINT DAVID'S,

which has given one saint to the church, and to the nation three lords
treasurer, one lord privy seal, a chancellor to the queen, and another
to the university of Oxford. It is situate in a deep hollow, and is
well sheltered from the winds which ravage this stormy coast. Here
are a few good houses appropriated to the ecclesiastical establishment,

in

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 187

iii the midst, of which the cathedral appears, rising with renovated
magnificence. The precise origin of this city and cathedral cannot
be ascertained, but it appears to have been of considerable importance
in the time of the Ancient Britons. The first account of this cathe-
dral commences in 911, when the Danes under Uther and Rahald
destroyed it, and slew its defender, Peredwr Gam. It was soon
rebuilt, but again much defaced by Swaine, the son of Harold, in 993,
who likewise slew Morgeney, then bishop of that diocese. This
appears to have been the last transaction of importance till 1079,
when William the Conqueror entered Wales with a great army,
marching after the manner of a pilgrimage as far as Saint David's,
when, having made an offering and paid his devotion to that saint, he
received homage of the kings and princes of that country. In 1087 a
most daring sacrilege was committed at Saint David's : the shrine
belonging to the cathedral was feloniously carried away, and all the
plate and other utensils were stolen. Subsequent to this, or about
1101, Saint David's began to be subject to the see of Canterbury, but
was always before the metropolitan church of all Wales. The former
cathedral having been often demolished, the present one was built in
the reign of Henry the Second (1110): it is a handsome edifice, with
two transepts, being in length from east to west 300 feet, and the
body with the aisles 76 feet broad ; behind the choir is a most beauti-
ful chapel, with a rich roof of carved stone, built by Bishop Vaughan
in the time of Henry the Eighth. In the north wall of the choir was
the shrine of Saint David, with a canopy of four pointed arches, and
in front four quatrefoil holes, into which the votaries put their offer-
ings, which were taken out by the monks at two iron doors behind.
Within the choir are the monuments of Owen Tudor and Rhys ap
Tudor, and likewise of Bishops lorwerth and Anselm in the 13th
century, and of Edmund Earl of Richmond. There is a tradition
that King Henry the Eighth had once a design of removing the
episcopal see from hence to Caermarthen, but that he desisted from
the intention when he was informed that the bones of his grandfather,
the Earl of Richmond, were buried here. Giraldus Cambrensis,
Archdeacon of Brecon, was also buried here in 1213. The modern
church, much to the honour of its proprietors, is in excellent preserv-
ation, and has had considerable attention and expense bestowed on it
lately, for the whole is in good repair, particularly the west front,
which has been rebuilt, and in a taste perfectly corresponding with
the rest of the edifice. The tower is finely carved in fret-work, and,
like many of our English cathedrals, the gothic ornaments of the
choir contrast the Saxon pillars and arches of the great aisle, which
are themselves curiously worked in wreathes. The ceiling (of Irish
oak) is much to be admired, together with a very perfect mosaic
pavement. In Saint Mary's Chapel, founded by Bishop Haughton
and John of Gaunt in 1365, and endowed with £106 per annum, are

some

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

some curious remains of pillars arid arches, with which the whole
space is strewed; various also are the devices in sculpture to be
found here, including the heads of seven sisters, who are said to have
contributed to the building. The Chapel House has a very fine
covered ceiling, and Saint Mary's Hall, now in ruins, exhibits much
ancient grandeur. According to the Liber Regis this bishoprick is
worth £426. 2s. Id. but its real value is upwards of £2,400. The
bishop's palace, though in ruins, appears to have been formerly a
magnificent and princely structure : it stood over the river Alan to
the south-west : two parts of its quadrangle are yet nearly entire, and
crowned with a light gothic parapet, but the arch leading to the
King's Hall is singularly fine, with the statues of King John and his
Queen. The hall itself is a grand room, 80 feet long by 30 wide,
with an elegant circular window at the east end, opening like a wheel,
with a rim, spokes, and centre, wrought in the finest gothic taste, and
quite entire ; the chapel contains a font, with the remains of some
curious pieces of sculpture. The kitchen is nearly wrhole, with four
chimnies and four arches, supported by a solid pillar in the centre.
Its modern ecclesiastical establishment is highly respectable, consisting
of a bishop, six canons-residentiary, four archdeacons, and several
canons. Bishop Gower's palace is situate by the side of the river
Alan: here are three sides of a magnificent palace, the hall being 58
feet by 23, to which belongs a parlour 25 feet by 28, with a central
pillar supporting four wide arches which occupy four sides of the
room, forming four large chimnies. The south side of the quadrangle
consists of a very noble hall, built, it is said, to entertain King John
on his return from Ireland. Within the close are four or five good
prebendal houses ; and north-east of the college of Saint Mary are
the ruins of the Vicars' Choral College. — Richard Davies, D. D.
Bishop of St. Asaph from 1559 to 1561, was in the latter year trans-
lated to Saint David's: he was the coadjutor of W. Salusbury in
translating the new testament into Welsh, and was one of those
eminent scholars who were employed by Queen Elizabeth in making
the English version of the bible.

On the south side of the church of Briddell, in the churchyard, is
a large stone 9 feet in length, but without any inscription upon it,
having only on one side a wheel marked with a cross.

In the parish of Castle Martin, the church of which is dedicated to
Saint Michael, are the remains of an old castle, still apparent. — The
grass in the parish churchyard of Saint Edeyrn is in great esteem, on
account of its supposed efficacy and wonderful effect in curing not
only cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs, which have been bitten by mad
dogs, but human beings also! In the chancel wall is a cavity with a
stone trough, into which persons pay what they please for the grass ;
and this is the perquisite of the parish clerk. — In the parish of Hum-
berstone, or Saint Herbert's Town, the church of which is dedicated

to

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES'. 189

to St. David, is an observatory. Here are the remains of an ancient
religious edifice, but it is not known of what order or by whom
founded. — In the parish of Llan-y-Tudwal are two ancient encamp-
ments, supposed to be British. — In the parish of Llanwnda, at the
verge of a rocky eminence above the village, is a cromlech, and the
remains of Druidical monuments and other ancient works are nu-
merously dispersed in this parish. There is also a tradition of a
town having anciently existed here, called Tref-Culhwch. The
celebrated Giraldus Cambrensis was vicar of this parish.

In the parish of Maen-Clochog, which hath its church dedicated
to Saint Mary, is " Saint Mary's Well," said to be efficacious in
rheumatism. " Maen-Clochog," adds a respectable divine, vicar of
this parish, " is derived from the Welsh language, and signifies a
sounding stone, which was a large stone placed upon three smaller
ones, and so well poized that a child of five years old could shake it
(although it was about two tons weight), and in moving it sounded
like a bell. Some of the inhabitants of Maen-Clochog, thinking
there was a treasure concealed under it, bored a hole in it and had it
split with gunpowder, and then dug up the small stones; but, to their
great disappointment, they found no treasure." In this parish is
Preseley, which is the highest mountain in South Wales, and which
was formerly covered with wood: the old inhabitants who live on its
borders have a tradition that the old Britons or WTelsh had their
habitations here in the time of the civil wars; its name formerly was
Preswylfa, but now, by a corruption and abbreviation of the word, it
is called Preseley.

In Maenor-Byrr parish, that is ef the Manor of the Lords," is a
castle on the sea-coast. It appears to have been of Norman erection,
and fell to the crown in the reign of Henry the First, but was granted
by James the First to the Bowens of Trelogne, from them it descended
by marriage to the family of Picton Castle, and in the year 1740 was
the property of Sir Erasmus Phillips. The ponderous towers and
massive fragments denote its original strength and importance ; and it
attracts the curious, and induces many strangers to visit it during the
summer months. It was once the property of the Barri family, and
here Giraldus Cambrensis was born in 1 145. In the church, Which
is dedicated to Saint James, is a sepulchral effigy of a near relative of
Giraldus, in good preservation.

In the parish of Merthyr, which hath its church dedicated to
the Holy Martyrs, is a large and perfect cromlech, erected on six
strong pillars, now standing on a farm belonging to the Bishop, called
Long House. — In the churchyard of Penally is a very beautiful shaft
of one of the early crosses, covered with rich tracery : and in a field
a little to the northward of the church are the remains of a building,
which from its form and position is thought to have been a chantry
chapel; the parsonage-house bears marks of its having, been formerly

of

190 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of great extent and consequence. — Ramsey Island, in the parish of
Saint David, is about three miles in length and about one mile in
breadth: it was famous for its breed of falcons. " Saint Justinian, a
noble Britain by birth, built a monastery in the island of Ramsey, in
Pembrokeshire, where the monks lived happily under his disci-
pline, till three of them, by the Devil's instigation, slew this
Justinian, in the year 486."

In the parish of St. Bride, which is situated on the south side of a
spacious bay, to which it gives name, facing St. George's channel, is
a scite of a building, called kf The Chapel," on the north side of the
present church-yard : and the remains of an old burial ground (with
several stone coffins), part of which has been destroyed by the sea.

At the small village of Ca'stle Morrice, was formerly a castle,
belonging to the Bishops of St. David, but which is now entirely
demolished, and on its scite is erected a farm-house.

Bosheston hath its church dedicated to St. Michael. It is situate
on the Bristol channel. On the southern point of the parish, close to
the sea, is a little chapel, which is supposed to have been the
residence of a hermit ; and near to it a small well which is much
resorted to in rheumatic complaints. Lord Cawdor is proprietor of
the whole parish, except one small farm. Mr. Emanuel Bowen, in
his map of South Wales, states that " Bosheston Meer is a hole like
a coal-pit, but so very deep as to have a communication with the sea,
and notwithstanding the surface is on the top of exceeding high rocks,
yet, in a flood tide, the wind southerly, the water flies violently out of
it upwards."

Burton is situate on the river Cleddau. The old castle, called
Burton Castle, affords a delightful prospect, and is much admired by
persons sailing up the river. — In the parish of Camrhos is a large
tumulus.

Castle Beilh hath its church dedicated to St. Michael. There are
vestiges still remaining of a Roman station on the borders of this
parish. The high road, which is the division of the parishes of
Ambleston and Castle Beilh, runs at present through the centre of it.
Several pieces of Roman bricks have been discovered there lately by
an antiquary : but various pieces of different kinds of utensils were
found when the mound was removed by the farmers, in order to sow
corn thereon, about fifty years ago. It is the opinion of two anti-
quaries, who have just inspected it, that it was the Roman station
( Advicesimum ) , in their way from Caermarthen to St. David's.

Clydau hath its church dedicated to Clydai, a female saint, who
lived about the middle of the fifth century. The church is double,
and is a plain neat structure, with a square tower neatly built.

Saint DogmaePs is situate on the river Teifi. Here is a chalybeate
spring which is now in use. Here was a monastery of the order of
Tirone, begun by Martin of Tours, who conquered the country of

Cemaes,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 191

Cemaes, in or soon after the reign of William the Conqueror, and
which was endowed and made an abbey by Robert Fitz-Martin, his
son, in the reign of King Henry the First. It was dedicated to
Saint Mary, had an yearly revenue of £96. Os. 2d. in the whole, and
£87. 8s. 6d. clear (26th Henry VIII.), and was granted, in the 35th
year of King Henry VIII. to John Bradshaw.

East Haroldston hath its chapel dedicated to Saint Ishmael. Here
was the hermitage of Saint Caradog; and, probably near a place
called Poorfield, the common on which Haverfordwest races are
holden, as there is a well there called Caradog's well, round which,
till within these few years, there was a sort of vanity fair, where cakes
were sold and country games celebrated.

West Haroldston had its church dedicated to Saint Madog, who
lived about the middle of the sixth century. There are the founda-
tions of several houses' still remaining, which prove the former popu-
lation to have been much greater than it is at present. Some centuries
back it was the residence of the Lord of Haroldston, who is the lord
paramount over several manors.

Saint IshmaePs is situate on Milford Haven. This was the last
place of residence of Saint Caradog the historian, where he died, and
was buried with great honour in the cathedral church of St. David's.

Johnston. — The only object of note in this parish is the old family
mansion of the Right Hon. Lord Kensington, called Johnston Hall,
which is now partly occupied as a farm-house, and the remainder is
in a rapid state of decay.

Llan-Deilo. — The church, which is now in ruins, was dedicated to
Saint Teilo : it is united to the vicarage of Maen Clochog. Here is
a fine spring, which the credulous still believe will cure coughs,
" when the water is drunk out of the skull of Saint Teilo," which is
carefully kept clean and shining on the shelf of a farm house close by
the well.

Llan-Hauaden hath its church dedicated to Aidan, a saint and
bishop of Lindisfarne, or Holy Land, who died in the year 651.
The great baronial castle, which is now in ruins, was the ancient
residence of the bishops of the diocese. It is situate on the banks of
the east Cleddau. Here was an hospital (the ruins of which re-
main), founded by Thomas Beke, Bishop of St. David's, A.D. 1287.

Llan-ych-Llwydog hath its church dedicated to Saint David. It
is beautifully situate on the river Gwayn. The church, according to
Mr. Fenton, is said to have been founded by Clydawc, a regulus of
the country, who was murdered in the neighbourhood as he was
pursuing the chase, and whose grave, by tradition, is marked by two
upright stones still visible in the churchyard.

Marloes, or Morlas, hath its church dedicated to Saint Peter. —
The inhabitants of this village, who are descended from the Flemings,

~are
H h

192 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

are uncommonly industrious, and among other articles of trade dis-
pose of great numbers of leeches, with which Marloes Mere abounds.

Nolton, or Knowelton, hath its church dedicated to Saint Madoc.
There are the remains of a chapel, situate near the small village of
Druidston, i. e. Druid's Town, which name the chapel goes by.
This part of the county is all English. Nolton stone is said to be
equal to Portland stone.

Saint Petrox, or Llan-Pedrog, hath its church dedicated to Saint
Pedrog, who lived about the beginning of the seventh century. This
place is celebrated for the salubrity of the air, and the longevity of
its inhabitants.

Rhos Market hath its church dedicated to Saint Ishmael. — In the
village is an old mansion, now a farm house, which was an ancient
seat of the family of Walter, and remarkable at this day for nothing
but its having been the birth-place of the celebrated Lucy Walter,
mistress to King Charles the Second, and mother to the unfortunate
Duke of Monmouth.

Rudbaxton, or Rudepascton, hath its church dedicated to Saint
Michael. Tradition says that there were formerly two chapels here,
called Saint Catherine's and Saint Leonard's, but there are now no
vestiges of either remaining. In part of this parish is a hill, upon
which is an ancient camp commonly called The Rath. Opposite to
the entrance into the churchyard is one of those large mounts which
are so frequently met with in this county, and whose origin and use
have not been as yet decisively ascertained.

Slebech hath its church dedicated to Saint J ohn the Baptist. It is
beautifully situate near the east Cleddau. Wizo, and Walter his
son, having given lands here to the Knights of Saint John of Jeru-
salem for the recovery of the Holy Land, a preceptory of their order
was settled here before A. D. 1301, which was endowed at the
dissolution with £211. 9s. lid. per annum in the whole, and £184.
10s. lid. clear, and was granted, with several other places in these
parts, to Roger and Thomas Barlow. There is no trace left of any
building coeval with the ancient commandery, except the church.

Tref Asser is in the parish of Llanwnda. Here the celebrated
Asser Menevensis is said to have been born. Near this is a tumulus,
called Castell Poeth, i. e. " The Hot Castle," in which fragments of
ums and other sepulchral indications have been discovered.

Walwyn's Castle hath its church dedicated to Saint James. It is
said that the body of Gwalchmai (the cousin of Arthur), of a gigantic
stature, was discovered here in the reign of William the Conqueror ;
which Gwalchmai, being driven from his inheritance in Galway, was
wrecked upon this coast, and here interred.

Castle Martin hath its church dedicated to Saint Michael. The
remains of an old castle are still apparent in the village.

The following eminent persons were natives or inhabitants of this

county : —

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

193

county : — Henry the Seventh, King of England, born in Pembroke
Castle ; Giraldus Cambrensis ; Sir William James, Baronet -\sser
Menevensis ; General Sir Thomas Picton ; Captain Foley, K. N. ;
Lucy Walter, mistress to King Charles the Second, and mother to
the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth.

FLINTSHIRE

J.S the smallest county in the Principality; the air is cold but
generally healthful ; and this county, like other parts of the Cambrian
territory, is full of hills, particularly near the shore of the Dee, where
the land rises rapidly, forming a ridge of hills running for a consider-
able distance parallel to that river. The commercial importance of
Flintshire is almost solely derived from its mineral productions,
particularly the lead ore, which is smelted on the spot, and the metal
exported from Chester. Some kinds of the ore contain silver enough
to repay with profit the expense of separating that precious metal
from the lead ; and large quantities of silver have been annually
extracted in this county, which is chiefly used by the manufacturers
of Birmingham and Sheffield. The calamine is mostly exported,
and some used at a brass-foundry at Holywell ; from the coal pits
the city of Chester is chiefly supplied. The most remarkable river in
this county is the Alyn, which, near Mold, sinks under ground, and
is lost for a considerable space. The rivers of the Vale of Clwyd
have likewise their exit in Flintshire, including the Elwy and Chwilar,
which supply the epicure with delicious fish,

FLINT,

anciently called Colsul or Coleshill, is the county town, incorporated
by Edward the First, and a place of great antiquity, but small and
irregularly built, near the sea. It is much resorted to by the neigh-
bouring gentry, as a bathing place, though the marshy coast, on which
the sea frequently flows, renders it extremely disagreeable. The
church (dedicated to Saint Mary) is a chapel of ease to Northop.
The county gaol stands adjacent to the churchyard, on a fine healthy
situation, but the assizes for the county are held at Mold. This town
was formerly enclosed with a vast ditch and double walls of earth,
which at the east end unite in one, having four entrances. The
castle, built of red stone, stands close to the sea, on a rock, enclosing
a space of about three quarters of an acre, treble ditched, or divided
in three parts by many ditches. The first is. formed by the high bank

H h 2 of

194 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of the town and castle, beyond which is a large square area; another
ditch separates this from a smaller square court with round towers.
One side of the court is entire, with several pointed windows : the
castle is defended by three round towers at three of the angles, and at
the south-east by a fourth, larger than the rest, detached from a wall
called the double tower or dungeon, to which Richard the Second
retreated. It is formed by two concentric walls, each six feet thick,
with a gallery eight feet broad and fourteen high, arched with another
over it, having four doors opening into a circular area in the centre of
twenty feet diameter. Towards the west end of the south side, in the
ditch, is a draw-well, communicating with the second story. From
the south side runs a double wall, enclosing a considerable area, with
earth on the outside piled up to the top. Richard the Second, after
his return from Ireland, stopped here, where he slept and dined, in
1399 ; but it was afterwards invested by 10,000 men, commanded by
the Duke of Lancaster; and on Richard's departure he was taken
prisoner, and soon after murdered at Pontefract. The castle was
begun by King Henry the Second, and finished by Edward the First.
In 1647 this castle was dismantled by the parliament, after standing
two long sieges during the civil wars. It now belongs to the crown,
which appoints a constable, who is also mayor. The precinct of
Flint is thought to have once served to inclose a small Roman station,
from the numerous Roman coins and other antiquities discovered
there. About a mile from this town, on the lower road to Chester,
stood Atis Cross, where tradition places a large town in ancient times,
and where, it is said, foundations of large buildings are often dis-
covered. It was undoubtedly a Roman station, by the number of
coins and other fragments found there and in the lands contiguous.

On leaving Flint we proceed southerly, and, at the distance of
three miles, pass through Northop or Llan Eurgain, having its
church dedicated to Eurgain, a female saint whose history is not
known. There is a farm-house called Manachlog, i. e. " The Monas-
tery," which stands on Watt's Dyke, and which probably took its
name from being a grange belonging to a monastery, as there is no
tradition of its ever having been a religious house. About a mile
north-west of Northop church is the site, surrounded by a moat, of
Llys Edwin, or Edwin's Palace : he was head of one of the fifteen
tribes of North Wales, and Lord of Tegeingl.

About three miles beyond Manachlog we pass through

MOLD,

called in Welsh Yr Wyddgrug, or the conspicuous barrow : it is a
small market town, consisting of one long street, wider than most
belonging to North Wales. The church, dedicated to Saint Mary, is
a neat building, ornamented all round the top walls with gothic
carvings of animals ; the pillars in the interior are light and elegant,

having

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 195

having between the arches figures of angels bearing shields with arms
on them, probably those borne by the benefactors of this church:
among the monuments is an elegant one for Robert Davies, Esq. of
Llannerch, who died in the year 1728 ; near to it is another to his
grandfather, Robert Davies, Esq. of Gwysaney, the paternal seat of
the family. Gwysaney is a most respectable old house, and in the
time of the civil wars was of strength sufficient to be garrisoned ; it
was taken April, 1645, by Sir William Brereton. Mold had an
ancient castle on a hill with a keep on the north side, and at the south
end a long square area, both divided from the former by a deep ditch,
while another surrounded the whole, dividing it into three parts,
until demolished by Owen Gwynedd. in 1144. It was again re-built
by Gruff ydd ap Gwenwynwyn in 1263, who closely besieged it, and
burnt the fortress. Near the church, built in the reign of Henry the
Eighth, was found a gold coin of Vespasian ; in the south chapel is a
small niche, with a statue of Robert Warton, or Parsew, bishop of
Saint Asaph from 1536 to 1554, which, according to the inscription,
was erected by one John ap Rh$rs ; and against a pillar of the nave is
a monumental inscription for William Wynne, of Tower, D.D.
Near Mold is Maes Garmon, or German's field, so called from a
victory obtained by Germanus over the Pagans, Picts, and Saxons,
in 440, in commemoration of it an obelisk was erected in 1730 by
Nehemiah Griffith, Esq. on the supposed spot, with a suitable inscrip-
tion. At the north end of the town stands the mount, called by the
Welsh Yr Wydd-grug,* and from which the place took its name. It
was translated by the Normans into Mons Altus, and afterward?
corrupted into Monte Alto, Montaldo, and finally to Moulde, and
Mold. This eminence is partly natural and partly artificial. The
Britons first, and then the Saxons and Normans, taking advantage of
such a situation, placed a castle on its summit : this mount is now
called the Bailey Hill, from the word Ballium or Castle Yard ; it
appears to have been strongly fortified, and is divided into three parts,
the lower ballium or yard, the upper, and the keep. In the reign of
William Rufus this place was in the possession of one Eustace, who
then did homage for Mold and Hope Dale. In the time of King
Stephen it was the property of Robert, High Steward of Chester,
and one of the Barons of the Norman Earls. In 1144 this fortress
was taken by the Welsh, under their prince Owen Gwynedd, and
razed to the ground. A little time before the conquest of Wales, the
inhabitants of Molesdale, or Ystrad Alun, presented a memorial of
the wrongs done to them by Roger de Clifford, Justiciary of Chester,
and his deputy, Roger Scroghil. They alleged that their lands were
taken from them ; that they were grievously and unjustly fined on
trivial occasions ; and that after paying a sum for exemption from

English

* Gwydd-gr&g, derived from Gwydd, conspicuous ; and Crftg, a tumulus, mount, or
tomraen : the initial C in composition being changed into g.

106 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

English laws they were obliged to submit to a trial by jury, contrary
to the usage of their country. Henry the Fourth made a grant of
this place, together with Hope and Hope Dale, to Sir John Stanley,
and it remained in the possession of the Derby family until the
attainder of Earl James. An old house in this parish, called the
Tower, from its singular construction, being a square building con-
sisting of three stories, was at one time the residence of Reinallt ap
Gruffydd ap Bleddyn, one of the six gallant captains who defended
Harlech Castle on the part of Henry the Sixth against the Earl of
Pembroke. This Reinallt and his people were in continual feuds with
the citizens of Chester ; in 1465 a considerable number of the latter
came to Mold fair, and a fray ensued between the said parties, in
which a dreadful slaughter ensued on both sides, but Reinallt
obtained the victory, and took prisoner Robert Bryne, linen-draper,
and Mayor of Chester in 1461, whom he led to his tower and hung
on the staple in his great hall. An attempt was made afterwards to
seize Reinallt, and two hundred tall men went from Chester for that
purpose. Hearing of their approach he retired to a neighbouring
wood, and permitted part of his enemies to enter his building ; he
then rushed from his cover, fastened the door, and setting fire to the
place, burnt them without mercy ; he afterwards attacked the rest and
pursued them to the sea side, where those who escaped the sword
perished in the channel. Reinallt received his pardon from Thomas
Lord Stanley, Lord of the Council of Wales, and it was subsequently
confirmed under the Great Seal by Edward IV. His actions were
celebrated at the time in poems, particularly by Lewis Glynn Cothi,
an eminent bard, and an officer under Jasper, Earl of Pembroke. It
seems that Lewis had married a Cestrian widow against the consent
of the inhabitants, who persecuted him and despoiled him of all his
property. This severity irritated the poet, and called into exercise
his satirical genius ; in one of his compositions he summons the
ministry of angels and of devils to his assistance, and pours a
profusion of curses on Caer-JJ-eon and its people. He wishes water
to drown, fire to burp, and air to infect the hated place, and that
grace might grow in every part, except the sacred edifices, of this
habitation of the seven deadly sins. The tower was called after the
name of its hero ; it was also called Bryncoed and Broncoed, or
Wood Hill, most probably from the wood which surrounded it.

About five miles to the north-west of Mold, is Pen Bedw, formerly
the seat of Watkin Williams, Esq. now deceased, who possessed some
remains of Sir Kenelm Digby's library, and a superb pedigree of that
family, illuminated with drawings of all the arms and tombs, which
was completed in the year 1634, and is said to have cost £1000. In
the meadow below the house are part of a druidical circle and a small
tumulus. On the summit of one of the mountains, at a great height
above the house, is a very strong British post, called Moel Arthur,

with

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 197

with two deep ditches and suitable dykes on the accessible sides.
This is one of the posts that defended the Ordovices and their suc-
cessors from the incursions of the Romans. These stations are very
numerous in this county, and easily distinguished by their conforming
to the shape of hills, and being generally unprovided with water.

Returning on our road, at the distance of about six miles from
Mold, we pass through Hope, or Queen's Hope, or East Hope, a
small village, having its church dedicated to Saint Cynfarch, son of
Meirchion, who lived about the middle of the fifth century, which,
with the parish, formerly belonged to the Crown ; the ground is rather
hilly, but the vallies are fertile in corn and grass. At the termination
of the village are some picturesque remains of its ancient castle, in
which Eleanor, the Queen of Edward the First, lodged on her way to
Caernarvon, where her husband sent her, to give the Welsh a ruler
born among them. Soon after the surrender of the castle to Edward
the First, in 1282, the king bestowed it on her: from whence the
place took the name of Queen?s Hope. Here is a fine old bridge
over the river Alun, near .the extremity of the village, from whence
may be had a fine view of the place, said to have been a Roman
station, forming a slope to the river, having three parallel streets,
intersected by three others at right angles. Some Roman bricks were
lately found in the ruins of an old house in the village, and large beds
of iron cinders, supposed to be from the works of the Romans at Caer
Estyn, in this parish. The Welsh name pf the parish is Estyn. A
Roman road likewise points from the village towards Mold, and is
visible more than once in the fields near Plas Teg, with an artificial
mound close on its course. This place is supposed to haye been,
Caer Gaur-lle, or " Camp of the Great Legion," a name bestowed
by the Britons on the 26th legion, analagoiis to Victrix : giving it the
strength of a giant. About a mile west of Hope is Plas Teg, the
ancient seat of the Trevor family. The building is ascribed to Inigo
Jones, in the year 1610, and had formerly a hall in the centre, 43 feet
by 23 feet, but now only inhabited by a farmer. It is erected round
a square court, with four towers at the corners, having in each a room
23 feet by 19 feet, with closets 15 feet and a half in circumference.

Returning on our road, at the distance of one mile, we arrive at
Caergwrle, once a flourishing town, and which continued such until
Wrexham became so much frequented, which has been the means of
reducing this place to its present state, It is by the learned asserted,
that Caergwrle was formerly a Roman station : probably an out post
to Deva, as some tiles were found here many years since, inscribed
" LEGIO XX." which proves it to have been of Roman origin.
Besides the British name Caergwrle, or " The Camp of the Great
Legion," the ruins of a castle are still yet to be seen, on the summit of
a high rock, a little distance off; but the remains are few, and not
important ; yet such as sufficiently indicate the building to have been

of

198 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of great extent. The rock on which this fortress was built is a com-
position somewhat singular, being a grit stone, so exceedingly coarse
as to have much the appearance of pebbles among mortar. The
founder of this castle is not known, although by its construction we
might, without hesitation, pronounce it to be of British origin, and
probably built by Gruffydd Maelor in the reign of Owen Gwynedd,
between 1137 and 1169. Edward the First bestowed the castle on
David ap Gruffydd, brother to the last prince of Wales : but when
David took up arms, in conjunction with his brother, against Edward,
in 1282, it was invested, and surrendered to the king, after a fortnight's
siege : not long after this reversion it appears to have been burnt by a
casual fire, but was again rebuilt, and given by Edward the Second to
Sir John Stanley. In this parish are some extensive lime quarries, in
which are frequently found a species of the fossil called entrochi, in
shape somewhat cylindrical, about one inch long, and formed of a
number of round joints.

RUDDLAN,

(the church of which is dedicated to Saint Mary,) lies on a flat in the
middle of the Vale of Clwyd, and on the eastern bank of the river, two
miles from its influx with the sea, where it is sufficiently wide to permit
vessels at high water to ride under the bridges. This was once a
considerable town, but now only a small borough, which contributes
to elect a member for Flint. Ruddlan derived much importance from
its elegant castle, wherein Edward the First kept three christmases.
It is a square building, erected with red stone, surrounded by a
double ditch on the north, with a strong wall and foss all round.
Below the hill, on the river side, is a square tower called Twr-y-
Silod, and another in the castle is called Twr-y-Brennin, or " The
King's Tower." The walls enclose an irregular square, with galleries
and appurtenances all round • the north wall appears much shattered,
but the other two are pretty entire. To the south of the castle they
shew a mount called Tut-hill, from whence the inhabitants say it was
battered ; but it appears a more ancient fortification, surrounded by
a deep ditch including the abbey : it may have been the residence of
the ancient Welsh princes, perhaps burnt by Harold in 1054, and the
ships in the harbour destroyed at the same time. This castle was
built by Robert de Rodelent, but soon after burnt by Gruffydd ap
Cynan, Prince of Wales, and Randal Earl of Chester. Subsequent
to this, Henry the Second rebuilt or fortified this castle, where
Giraldus Cambrensis says he was nobly entertained. Queen Eleanor
was also delivered of a princess here in 1283. Northumberland
seized this castle in 1399, previous to the deposition of Richard the
Second, who, with his retinue, partook of refreshment here on their
way to Flint castle. At a private dwelling house in this place they
shew the gable of a building, in which it is said Edward the First

held

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 199

held the parliament that passed the statute of Ruddlan about 1284,
which is no more than regulations made by the king in council for the
future government of Wales, which, he informs us in the preamble,
was then totally subdued. Of this place only one gothic window
now remains to distinguish it from a neighbouring barn, while the
hall that once contained the parliament of England is now filled with
bark to supply a tan-yard. There is another old house on the north
side of the castle, where they say the king resided when one Gruffydd
Llwyd ap Rhys brought him information of the queen's safe delivery
at Caernarvon Castle, for which the king immediately knighted him.
— More to the south are the remains of a Priory of Black Monks,
founded before 1268. Below the town, on a large marsh, was fought
the famous battle (in 794) between Prince Caradoc and the Saxons
under Offa King of Mercia, in which the latter was killed and a great
number of his army slain. On this occasion the fine plaintive Welsh
tune called Morfa-Ruddlan was composed, descriptive of the san-
guinary battle on this marsh. At Ruddlan is a bridge consisting of
two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595, with the arms of Hughes, Bishop
of Saint Asaph, on one of the battlements.

Two miles and a half north-east of Ruddlan is Disserth, a small
village situate among hills, from whose top falls a beautiful cascade,
rising from a small well called Ffynnon Asa, or " Saint Asaph's Well,"
in a dingle in Cwm parish, one mile off: its perpendicular height is
seventeen yards, concealed between two arches of the rock behind
which it has worn itself a passage. In a romantic bottom, and finely
overshaded with yew-trees, stands the church or chapel, dedicated to
Saint Bridget, with some good paintings in the east window. In the
churchyard is an ancient cross, adorned with wreaths ; another with
some traces of a human figure, now placed as a stile in the church-
yard • on the altar tomb is cut a rude cross and sword. To the north
of this village are some small remains of Gerri Castle, or Castell y
Craig, which .appears to have been fortified by Henry III. in 1246.
At the siege of this castle was slain Eineon ap Ririd Flaidd, to whom
some attribute the cross erected on the spot called Croes Eineon,
supposed to be that which now forms the stile before mentioned.

Returning on our road we proceed i:i an easterly direction, and at
the distance of about five miles pass through Newmarket, having its
church dedicated to Saint Michael. It is a small town, almost the
entire erection of its then owner, John Wynne, Esq. of Gob, who
died in the last century. The ancient name of this parish is Tre-
lawny d. The church is a very antique building, with a handsome old
cross in the church-yard. Here is one of the charity schools founded
and opened in 1726 by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister,
with an endowment of £8 per annum, a charity which he extended to
every county in North Wales, distinguishing that at Wrexham, the
place of his birth, by an annual salary of £15. From the town is an

ascent

200 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

ascent called Copar'leni, on whose summit is an enormous carnedd or
tumulus, formed of limestones. It was probably the site of a specula,
or a memorial of some chieftain, or it might have been a place for
signals by fire, to announce the approach of an enemy by sea. The
tract from thence to Caerwys was certainly a field of battle, for no
place in Wales exhibits an equal quantity of tumuli, and all sepul-
chral : perhaps in this place was the great slaughter of the Ordovices
by Agricola.

About six miles from Newmarket, and nearly two to the left of the
road, is Downing, situate among woods, in the parish of Whiteford,
the church of which is dedicated to Saint Mary ; but Downing is
principally known to the world as the seat of the late Thomas
*ennant, Esq. to whose indefatigable researches the natural history

and topography of Great Britain are under many obligations; he was
born on the 14th June, 1726, at Downing, and there he closed his
useful life in the year 1794. Downing is also the principal house in
the township, and was built about the year 1627, but the present
name is evidently a corruption of Tre-Eden-Owain, the name of the
township in which it stands. The house was founded by John
Pennant, of Bychton, who, marrying a rich heiress of this place,
erected an elegant mansion with stone brought from a dingle called
Nant-y-bi, opposite the modern edifice ; the present structure is
erected in the form of a Roman H, a mode of architecture common in
Wales at that period, with this ancient and pious motto on the front :
f— " Hefy Dduw heb ddim, a Duw a digon :" signifying, — "Without
God there is nothing : with God enough." The grounds are very
extensive, with walks along fine sweet-swelling lands beneath the
shady deep of glens, or through the contracted meads which meander
quite to the shore, with fine views towards the hills and the ancient
Pharos on Garreg : over the channel of the Dee are the Hilbree isles,
on one of which are some remains of a cell of Benedictines : but the
sea view is still more animated with the sight of numerous fleets
entering and sailing out of Liverpool. Below the house are the ruins
of the abbey of Malandina, which add considerable beauty to the view.
The house has latterly been considerably improved, richly furnished
with antique carvings, and specimens of the horns of all the European
beasts of chase : the library contains a numerous and choice collection
of books, chiefly of natural history, with a great collection of MSS.
being solely the labour and industry of the late Thomas Pennant,
Esq. : in the hall are some good pictures by Peter Paillow, an
excellent painter of animals and birds : the parlour is embellished
with portraits and paintings mostly reduced from originals by the
ingenious Moses Griffith, an untaught genius of North Wales, who
accompanied Mr. Pennant in most of his tours through England,
Scotland, and Wales. On a hill there is a cavern, supposed to have
been made by the Romans when they worked these and the neigh-
bouring

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 201

bouring mines. Mynydd Garreg, a high hill about two miles to the
north-east of Downing, in a very conspicuous part of the country,
has on its summit a Pharos, erected by the Romans to conduct
navigators to and from the Deva. It is tolerably entire, and built
of limestone bedded in hard mortar, of a circular form and considerable
height ; the inner diameter is twelve feet, the walls three feet thick,
with the doors or entrances opposite each other, and over them
square funnels like chimnies, opening on the outside about half way
up, and on each side a window. About four feet from the ground are
three circular holes through the whole wall, lined with mortar, very
frequent in Roman buildings : within are traces of a stair-case, leading
to the upper story, in which are eight small square openings, cased
with free stone, each separated by wooden pannels, the grooves of
which only remain : in each of these partitions were placed the lights,
which the Romans thought necessary to keep distinct, lest the seamen
should take it for a star. To this building are evidently a broad
raised road, pointing from the east, and near its upper end are marks
of a trench round the whole.

About one mile and a half north of this building is Mostyn Hall, a
seat belonging to a family of that name, lineally descended from
Tudor Trevor, Earl of Hereford before the conquest, and which
family first settled here in the reign of Richard the Second, though
they did not assume the name of Mostyn till the reign of Henry the
Eighth. The old mansion has a venerable appearance ; and the park
is small, but beautifully broken and clothed in various parts with fine
oaks and magnificent beeches. The ground around slopes finely to
the sea, facing the north-east, where trees grow close to the water
edge ; the house is placed about half a mile from the shore, and built
on so singular a plan that it is almost impossible to describe this
curious structure. It consists of an old hall for servants, and had
formerly a chapel on the outside, now converted into bed rooms : on
the porch, said to be re-built in 1628, are the arms of the four great
alliances of the family,, rudely cut in stone, which seem to have
been copied from an original on the great chimney piece in the hall.
When the house was built is uncertain, but it is supposed in the early
time of Henry the Sixth, or perhaps more anciently. In many places
the walls are furnished with ancient guns, swords, pikes, helmets,
breast plates, funeral achievements ; and a variety of the spoils of the
chase, particularly a falcon, which is nailed against the wall of the
room, with two bells, one hung to each foot, and which, with these
incumbrances, flew from its owner in the county of Angus, on 24th
September, 1772, and was killed near this house on the 26th. At the
end of the gallery is a great room, remarkable for being the place
where Henry Earl of Richmond laid the foundation of his plan to
overthrow the House of York ; but while he was at Mostyn, Richard
the Third's party arrived, so that he had but just time to leap out of a

back

202 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

back window and make his escape through a hole, called to this day
the king's window. In 1631, Sir Roger Mostyn, Baronet, made a
very handsome addition to this house by erecting a large square
appendage, containing six bed rooms, a handsome eating room, and a
drawing room, with a large bow window in the middle of each :
opposite to one of the windows is an elegant fire-place, and above are
the arms of the numerous alliances of the family beautifully executed
in stucco, dated 1632 ; to the preceding might be added a long
catalogue of paintings, executed by some of the first artists ; besides
an extensive and valuable library of ancient classics, medallic histories,
gems, and a variety of polite literature, no where else to be found,
particularly manuscripts, beautifully written and illuminated. The
house stands in a township of the same name, called by the Welsh
Tre-Mostyn. The estate came into the family by the marriage of
levan Vychan, of Pengwern, near Llangollen, with Angharad, heiress
of Hywel ap Tudor ap Ithol Vychan, of Mostyn, in the reign of
Richard the Second. Hywel derived his descent from Edwin Lord
of Tegeingl, or Englefield ; his grandfather Ithel was a person of
great property at the time of the conquest of the principality, and in
1301 did homage at Chester to Edward prince of Wales for his lands
at Northop and Mostyn. In the highest part of this township is the
curious cross called Maen Achwynfan, or " the stone of lamentation :"
it stands in a small field, opposite to the gate which opens from the
turnpike-road into Garreg, and takes its name, in all probability,
from the penances which were so often finished before such sacred
pillars. It is twelve feet high, two feet four inches at the bottom, and
ten inches thick ; the base is sunk in another stone, and the top is
round, it is of an elegant form and sculpture : near to it is an ancient
chapel, now a farm-house, called Gelli-wig, or " the hazel grove,"
the name of an adjacent tract : this chapel might have had a relation
to the cross, as well as being a place for performance of divine service
for the Abbot of Basingwerk, who had a house at no great distance.
The township of Tre'r Abbot was exempt from the payment of tithes
by a modus originally granted by the Abbot of Basingwerk, but
which, by negligence, is now totally lost. The church stands in the
township of Tre Llan, and consists of a nave with a good plain
tower-steeple, it has besides a side aisle, built by Blithyn Drow, of
the house of Mostyn, to whom that part belongs.

Returning from this direction, at the distance of about eleven miles
from Newmarket, we pass through

HOLYWELL, OTHERWISE TRE-FFYNNON,

otherwise Ffynnon Gwen-Vrewi, a handsome well-built town, con-
sisting principally of one long street running from east to west. It is
chiefly noticed for its celebrated spring, called " Saint Winifred's
Well," which breaks out with great rapidity from under a hill, dis-
charging

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 203

charging twenty-two tons of water in a minute. It rises in a long
bason, twelve feet by seven, a stone wall with pillars supporting the
roof, forming a walk all round to the chapel. The roof over this wall
is exqusitely carved in stone, with the legend of Saint Winifred, and
seven sculptures alluding to the house of Stanley, who erected it prior
to the year 1495 ; and the beautiful Gothic chapel was built over it
in the time of Henry the Seventh by the Countess of Richmond. The
roof is likewise hung round with crutches and hand-barrows, said to
be left by persons who have received a perfect cure by the use of the
water. On the hill above stands the church, dedicated to Saint
"Winifred, who was the daughter of one Thewith, a petty prince in
those parts, and of Wenlo his wife, sister to Saint Beuno, who was one
of the most distinguished saints of Wales. Winifred was instructed
in the Christian religion by her uncle Saint Beuno : but, according to
the legend, being remarkably beautiful, Caradoc, the son of king
Allen, fell desperately in love with her, and finding her one day alone,
he solicited her to comply with his wishes. Astonished at his request,
she fled out of the house to the church built by her uncle Beuno, but
before she got down the hill, the prince overtook her, and, in the
violence of disappointed passion, with his sword struck oft* her head,
which falling to the ground, caused this stream of water to gush from
the place where the head rested : the moss around diffused a fragrant
smell, and her blood spotted the stones, which, like the flowers of
Adonis, annually commemorate the fact by assuming colours unknown
to them at other periods. As soon as Saint Beuno recovered from his
surprise, at seing this stream and the bleeding head, he immediately
took hold of it, and ran up the hill, sending the murderer to the devil
by his curses, while by his power he raised the murdered maid, and
replaced her head. After this she took the veil, and maintained a
company of virgins, besides being assured by her uncle Beuno to have
two immortal privileges, namely —

1st. That the blood should never be washed out of the stones.
2d. That her merit should be prevalent all over the world.

Seven years after this she removed to Gwytherin, in Denbighshire,
where she was buried ; four rude upright stones are now shewn there
as St. Winifred's tomb. In the reign of King Stephen her body was
removed to the Abbey of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in Shrewsbury.
This fine spring is now as much esteemed by the manufacturer, as
it was formerly for its miraculous powers, and is, in its short course
to the Dee, made subservient to the purposes of manufacture, by
turning water mills for cotton works, forges, smelting works, and
other machinery. During the reign of pilgrimage nothing but a corn
mill, the property of the monks, was worked on the stream. It is
said that the well alluded to never freezes, or scarcely varies in the
quantity of water in drought or after the greatest rains. Above the

church

204 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

church is a hill called Bryn y Castell, narrow and very steep at the
side, projecting at the end over the little valley. On this hill might
have stood the castle of Tre-ffynnon, which was built by Randal Earl
of Chester in the year 1210, but there are not at present any vestiges
left. An eminence called Bryn Dychwelwch is traditionally said to
have been the place from which Henry the Second gave his order for
retreat when he was engaged with the Welsh, in 1157, with his whole
army at Coleshill, in the same difficulties he had just experienced in
the depth of Coed lolo.

About one mile east of Holywell is Basingwerke Abbey, or Maes
Glas (Green Field). It is beautifully situated in a meadow between
two hills, on the eastern side of the mouth of Holywell river. The
ruins stand on a gentle eminence, commanding a fine view of the
Chester channel, and surrounded with rich pastures, besides a happy
disposition of ancient groves of trees on every side, and a profusion of
sycamores : but in its dilapidated walls there is evidently a mixture of
architecture, for the greater part of that now standing appears to be
as old as the original foundation. The doors and some of the lower
arches are semicircular, simple and unornamented ; the windows long,
pointed, and narrow. The south wall of the cross aisle, with a door-
way and one pointed arch, are all that remain of the church, which
stood on the east side of the abbey ; but the foundations shew several
specimens of mixed architecture, or what is generally termed Saxon
and Gothic. The abbey was founded, according to the opinion of
Bishop Tanner, in 1113, by Randal the second Earl of Chester;
according to Fleetwood and others, by Henry the Second ; but Mr.
Pennant believes it to have been of much higher antiquity, and to
derive its origin from one of the Welsh princes. Its inhabitants were
of the Cistercian order, and Randal was no doubt a supporter of it.
Within these few years a great part of the refectory and dormitory
were to be seen, likewise a shell of a chapel belonging to the Knights
Templars, with several lancet windows to the west, the whole of
which are now nearly destroyed, and what remains is converted into
a barn. The abbey was valued at £150. 7s. Od. and its abbot had
been honoured by being summoned to parliament five times by
Edward the First. A part of this abbey was inhabited about one
hundred years past, but pulled down by the order of Lady Mostyn, to
build a house near the ruins. Here is still to be seen an old brick
barn, strengthened with timber, said to have been the monks' grainery,
and where is kept an epitaph on George the son of Lord Petre, who
died in 1647. It is worthy of notice that the monks of this abbey
have the honour of being the first inventors of the fable of Saint
Winifred, which brought great riches to the monastery, as indulg-
encies were granted by the Roman Pontiffs in 1240 to all who would
make a pilgrimage to the Holy Well. Two of the abbots were
Thomas ap Davydd Pennant, and Nicholas his son : the father is

celebrated

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 205

celebrated for his munificence and hospitality by two Welsh bards,
Guttain Owain and Tudor Aled, who flourished about the year 1480.
The castle was of importance in the wars between the English and
the Welsh. The land to the sea is steeply sloped ; the west side was
protected by a deep gully, formed by the river ; and the south by a
vast ditch, called Wat's dyke. Vestiges of the fortress appear in the
foundation of a wall on the edge of the ditch, and on the road-side
near the turnpike-gate, opposite to the ruins of the abbey. Lord
Lyttelton says that the founder was an Earl of Chester. In 1 165 the
gallant prince Owain Gwynedd laid siege to it, took and levelled it to
the ground ; after which the name no more occurs as a fortress.

SAINT ASAPH, OR LLAN ELWY,

is a small town or city, situate on the banks of the river Elwy, and
the cathedral is erected on its summit ; the river Clwyd runs on the
eastern side, and the Elwy on its western : the township in which it
stands is called Bryn-Paulin, and one part of it Bron-yr-Wylva, " the
eminence of the Watch Tower." Mr. Pennant conjectures it might
have been an encampment of Paulinos, when on his way to and from
Mona. According to Bishop Tanner, Kentigern, bishop of Glasgow,
being driven out of Scotland, founded an episcopal see and monastery
here, about the middle of the sixth century, and became the first
bishop. Upon his return into Scotland, he made Asaph, (being
grandson of Pabo Post Prydain,) an eminently holy and good man, his
successor, and from him both the church and place has been called
Saint Asaph ; but from the death of Saint Asaph, A. D. 596, there
is no account of the monastery, and little or no account of any bishops,
till the year 1143; and though there has been a regular and constant
succession from that time, yet, by reason of the wars between the
English and Welsh and Owain Glyndwr's rebellion, the cathedral
church, with the bishop's and canons' houses were more than once
destroyed, and for many years in ruins. Upon one of these devasta-
tions, or the fears of it, Bishop Anian the Second endeavoured, in
1278, to remove the see to Ruddlan, five miles to the north-west,
and King Edward the First granted his licence for it in the year
1284, and promised both ground for the church and the necessary
offices, and one thousand marks towards the buildings ; but this did
not take effect. The see was formerly a very wealthy see, but its
revenues were greatly lessened by the profusion of Bishop Parfew,
who (in 1536) alienated much of the lands belonging to it. It was
valued (26th Henry VIII.) at £202. 10s. 6d. in the whole, and at
£187. lls 6d. clear, which is its present value in the king's books,
but it is computed to be worth £2000 per annum. The most remark-
able edifice is the present cathedral, built chiefly since 1441, being
in length 182 feet, and in breadth 50 ; the western tower is 93 feet
high, but on the whole it appears a simple inelegant building, con-

taining

206 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

taining little worth enquiry except three monuments, for Bishops
Owen, who died in 1512, Griffith in 1666, and Barrow in 1680.
The Dean and Chapter, out of a fund vested in them for that purpose,
rebuilt the choir, the eastern window of which is copied from Tintern
Abbey. The members of this chapter are the dean, archdeacon (who
is also bishop), six prebendaries, chancellor, and seven canons, an
organist, four lay clerks or singing men, four choristers, and other
officers. It is perhaps peculiar to Saint Asaph, that the cathedral is
not used for a parish church, like all the rest of the Welsh cathedrals ;
but the parish church stands a little distance from it, within the town,
and two aisles called Eglwys Asaph and Eglwys Kentigern, from the
saints of those names, frequently mentioned in the Welsh calendar.
In the parish church is a tomb ornamented with foliage, and bearing
a shield with a lion rampant ; inscribed around it are these words- —
" Hie jacet Ranulfus de Smalwode," and beneath the shield passes a
sword, held by a hand : it is said to have been brought from Rudd-
lan. The old palace, which was not very magnificent, was rebuilt
by Bishop David ab Owen in 1503, after it had lain in ruins for one
hundred years. This building being out of repair and very incon-
venient, Bishop Bagot built a handsome and comfortable palace about
the year 1795.

Three miles to the south-east of Saint Asaph we pass on our right

CAERWYS,

or Caer-ar-wys, L e. " The Fort above the Waters ;" although others
say the name of this place is derived from Caer " a city," and Gwys
" a summons," and that it appears to have been a place of judicature,
and particularly a Roman station. It now consists of four spacious
streets, crossing each other at right angles ; and the parish church is
dedicated to St. Michael. Roman coins have been frequently found
here, and many tumuli are round it and in the neighbourhood. In a
wood near this town is a well called Saint Michael's, close to a very
romantic rock, on which a Roman catholic chapel is supposed to have
been once situated, and concerning which some superstitious ideas are
still entertained : as persons go early on Easter morning to drink the
rock water mixed with sugar. Caerwys is also celebrated as the
place of Eisteddfod, or British Olympics, where the sessions of bards
and minstrels were held for many centuries. It was chosen for this
purpose on account of its having been the princely residence of
Llywelyn ap Gruffydd. In this contest none but bards of merit and
skilful minstrels were permitted to exhibit before the appointed
judges, whose approbation could decide on their abilities, and confer
suitable degrees and rewards, with permission to exercise their talents
before the princes, nobility, and gentry of the principality ; without
which no one was admitted to that distinction. The judges were
appointed by a commission from the prince, and after the conquest of

Wales

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 207

Wales by Edward the First, the English kings sanctioned their
Eisteddfod as an institution likely to soften the manners of a fierce
and warlike people. Previous to this we find Gruffydd ap Cynan,
contemporary with King John, enacted that no person should follow
the profession of a bard or minstrel who was not regularly admitted
by the Eisteddfod, which was held once in three years; neither were
they allowed to degrade the profession by following any other occu-
pation. In 1568 a commission was granted by Queen Elizabeth for
holding an Eisteddfod at Caerwys, which is still in the possession of
Sir Thomas Mostyn, together with a silver harp, containing strings
equal to the number of the muses, and such as was generally bestowed
on the first of the faculty in ancient times. Another Eisteddfod
was held prior to this period, in the 15th year of Henry the Eighth,
in which Richard ap Ho well ap Ivan Vychan, of Mostyn, Sir
William Gruffydd, of Penrhyn, and Sir Robert Salisbury presided,
assisted by Gruffydd ap Evan ap Llewelyn Vychan and Tyder (or
Tudor) Aled, two bards. The last meeting at Caerwys was in
consequence of a notice published by the Gentlemen of the Gwyneddi-
gion or North Wales Society (instituted for the encouragement of
Welsh Literature) in London, which fixed the Congress or Eistedd^-
fod to commence on Tuesday, the 29th May, 1798, and, according to
ancient custom, was proclaimed twelve months and a day prior to the
day appointed. On this occasion the town-hall was neatly prepared
for the reception of a numerous and respectable company. The
subjects were fixed upon by the Gwyneddigion Society, which, as
might be expected, when originating from that respectable body,
produced numerous candidates, whose productions were animated
and of considerable merit. The number of bards that attended this
Eisteddfod amounted to twenty ^ vocal performers eighteen, and
harpers twelve, all of whom acquitted themselves so extremely well,
that several connoisseurs in music who were present the three days
it continued declared that they never recollected a contest of this
nature better maintained or afford more rational amusement.

At the distance of about eight miles from Caerwys we pass through
the village of Northop; six miles beyond which we arrive at
Hawarden, called by the Welsh Penarddhalawg, a large well-paved
town, with the ruins of an old castle at the east end, called in Welsh
Pen-y-Llwch, or (vulgarly) Pennard y-las, commanding an extensive
prospect towards the Dee. It was built soon after the Norman
conquest, and has been very strong, being situated on a high hill in
Sir William Glynn's park, and surrounded by a double ditch now
filled with trees, and having a wall on the innermost side. On the
summit is a semi-circular tower, commanding an extensive prospect,
but only a small part of the outer wall remains. Henry the Sixth
granted the castle to Sir Thomas Stanley, in whose family it continued

during
j i

208 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

during the civil wars; but after the execution of Thomas Stanley,
Earl of Derby, it was purchased by Sergeant Glynn, of the family of
Glynn-Llivon, whose descendants are its present possessors. It was
surrendered to the King's troops in 1643, but retaken after the battle
of Chester in 1645. On some disturbances arising between the
Parliamentary soldiers in 1647, it was dismantled; and was entirely
spoiled by Sir William Glynn in 1680. At present a little more
than the walls and the keep remain, particularly the latter, which is
more elevated and perfect than the other parts of the building, and
has had within these few years a room elegantly fitted up in the
modern style, with some painted statues, the whole of which do but
ill accord with the shattered ruins around them. West of the church,
by the road side, is a mount called Truman's Hill, with a cavity on
its summit like a camp.

About one mile to the north-east of Hawarden is Eulo (or lolo)
Castle, situate on the road side, two miles from Northop : it is a
small double fortress, with a square area and two round towers. In
the adjoining field and wood, called Coed-Eulo, Henry the Second
received a severe repulse, after he attempted to cut off the retreat of
Owen Gwynedd, who was retiring to a place near Saint Asaph, now
called Cil-Owen, or Owen's Retreat. This small place is chiefly
noted for its manufacture of earthenware, which is carried on to a
very great extent.

Bangor-Iscoed is situate in a detached part of the county, separated
by the interposition of Denbighshire, and is two miles from Overton,
on the banks of the Dee, which flows under a handsome stone bridge
of five arches. Bangor is chiefly celebrated as having been the site
of one of the most famous monasteries in the kingdom, founded, as it
is supposed, by Lucius, son of Coel, the first Christian King in
Britain, established for the increase of learning and preservation of
the Christian faith in this realm about the year 180. It was originally
founded for an university, but afterwards converted into a monastery
by Cynwyl about the year 530, who was made the first abbot. This
monastery was remarkable for its valuable library, and, from its
great age and number of learned men, was truly acknowledged (says
Speed) to be the mother of all others in the world. Nennius, who
wrote the History of Britain, extant at this day, was one of the
abbots; and when Augustine the monk was commissioned by
Gregory the First, about 596, to convert the English Saxons to
Christianity, the monastery of Bangor was reported to be in a very
flourishing state, containing no less than two thousand four hundred
monks, one hundred of which in their turns passed one hour in
devotion, so that the whole twenty-four hours of every day were
employed in sacred .duties. After the battle of Chester, fought by
the victorious Etheldred, King of Northumbria, a great number of
this religious society were slain, which proved most fatal to this

establishment,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 209

establishment, as the monastery appears to have gone into gradual
decay after this event; for William of Malmesbury, who lived soon
after the Norman conquest, reports, that in his time there remained
only a few relics of its ancient greatness; but there was then an
immense heap of rubbish, the like of which was no where to be
found. In Leland's time the site appears to have been ploughed
ground ; and nearly a mile in compass the plough often turned up
bones of the monks, and in digging pieces of their clothes were found
in sepulchres. He also says that Roman coins were discovered here
in his time, and old foundations of squared stones were then visible in
several places. This place is supposed to be the site of Bovium, a
famous Roman station ; but it is said there are at present not the
least remains of a monastery, city, or Roman station. The church of
Bangor (dedicated to Saint Dinoeth) is a handsome structure of the
time of King Henry the Seventh. In Pennant's Tour are repre-
sentations of four stone coffin lids dug up here in his time. In this
parish is a handsome bridge over the Dee, consisting of five arches,
built in 1658.

Bodfair, or JBodvair, or Bodvary, or Bodfary, hath its church dedi-
cated to Saint Stephen. It is situate near the junction of the Chwiler
with the Clvvyd. The Varis of Richard of Cirencester is supposed to
have been near this place. The country about Maes-Maenan is
singularly fine ; and here Llewelyn ap Gruffydd is said to have
resided, in a house whose foundations till within a few years were to
be seen in an adjacent meadow.

Cwm, " a hollow," or " dingle." — Ffynon Asaph, or Saint Asaph's
Well, a fountain inclosed with stone, in a polygonal form, is some-
times resorted to for the cure of rheumatic and nervous complaints;
the water is remarkably cold, and sufficiently powerful to turn a mill
in the driest season, and does actually turn one within a few yards
of its source. On Moel-Hiraddug, a hill of a conical form, are
the remains of a British fortress, and which is also remarkable for
having on its summit a bed of bright and beautiful but brittle red
spar. Cwm church is embosomed by hills, and fronts the Vale of
Clwyd. On a very ancient stone in the churchyard is this incrip-
tion — " Hie jacet Tangwistl uxor Llewelyn ap Inir."

Halkin, properly called Helygen, i. e. ee The Willow," hath its
church dedicated to Saint Mary. At the Conquest, according to
Domesday, this place was called Alchone, from which probably the
word Halkin is derived. The first place of any note which is in this
parish is a small hamlet called Y-Pentre, or " The Village," and is
generally distinguished from Llan, the church, or Llandre, the
assemblage of houses near it. This took its rise in the last century,
and was much increased by the concourse of miners on the discovery
of a rich vein in the adjacent fields. Near it is Halkin mountain, a

vast
i i 2

210 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

vast tract of land, which runs into three other parishes. ' Mr. Pennant
seems to be of opinion that a saint in the British calendar, called
Lugan, gave name to this place, but no such name can be discovered
in the catalogue called Buchedd y Saint. On the summit of a hill is
a strong British fortress, called Moel-y-Gaer, which is surrounded
with a great fosse and dyke of a circular form. — In this parish, above
the village, is the most elegant castellated mansion of Lord Grosvenor,
Lord Lieutenant of the County.

Hanmer hath its church dedicated to Saint Chad or Saint Chedde,
who were not one but two persons, both Saxons, and brothers, who
lived in the year 660. Chedde, the elder, was bishop of London,
and a very active promoter of Christianity among the East Saxons ;
Chad, the younger brother, who was considerably the longer liver,
was bishop of Lichfield, remarkable for converting Wolfhere, king
of Mercia : the story of whose cruelty in killing his sons, and the
particulars of his conversion, were, before the civil wars, painted in
Peterborough church windows, where he built a monastery. Davydd
ap Edmund, a poet, who obtained the chair at the Caermarthen
Eisteddfod about the middle of the fifteenth century, was a native of
this parish ; many of his compositions are preserved, which discover
considerable genius and fancy. This parish is extremely beautiful
and varied, and comprises a lake of 50 acres, to which the place is
supposed to owe its name : in the church are several monuments to
the memory of the Hanmer family ; in this parish is Bettisfield, the
seat of Sir John Hanmer, Bart. ; also Gredington, the seat of
Lord Ken yon.

Kilcen or Cilcein hath its church dedicated to Saint Mary, which
is remarkable for its carved roof, and is said to have been brought
from the church at Basingwerk abbey, on the dissolution, and thus to
have fulfilled a prophecy of Robin Ddu, or Robert the Black, a bard,
who, when he saw it put up by the Monks, observed that " it would
be very well for a church beneath Moel Vamma." In this parish is
the noted Ffynnon Leinw, or flowing well, mentioned by Camden for
its flux and reflux ; but it appears from Mr. Pennant that this
singularity has ceased for some time. — Kilcen Hall, near this well,
was at one time the seat of a branch of the Mostyn family ; it after-
wards became the property of Mr. Edwards, of Pentre, in Mont-
gomeryshire, in right of his wife Charlotte Mostyn, heiress of the
place.

Llan Asaph or Llanasa hath its church dedicated to Saint Asaph
and Saint Kentigern : it is situate upon the Irish sea, and has a light-
house at the point of Air, near the entrance of the Dee. Laurence
Child, Bishop of Saint Asaph in 1385, procured the impropriation of
this church to supply his cathedral with lights, and to repair the ruins
occasioned by the wars. In the hamlet of Gwyspyr are the ruins of a
small chapel. There is a tradition, that the extent of Gronant Moor

was

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 211

was so great, that the people on the Welsh side could hold conversa-
tion over the channel with those of Cheshire, previous to its being
reduced to its present scanty limits by the encroachments of the sea.
The parish was possessed by the See of Saint Asaph, by virtue of a
grant made by Edward the BlackPrince, son of Edward the Third, to
Llewelyn ap Madog, elected Bishop of Saint Asaph in 1357. The
inundation of the sea happened before the reign of Henry the Fifth ;
previous to which time the Bishop paid annually into the Exchequer
of Chester, as an acknowledgment, twenty marks ; but Henry in 1414,
and Henry the Sixth in 1445, and 1451, in consideration of the mis-
fortune, released the See from that rent. If this account did not
remain an incontestible proof of the ravages of the ocean on this part
of the country, there exists natural ones, that woulcl give reasonable
grounds for suspicion. The Hyle sands, which run from twelve to
fourteen miles parallel with the narrow hundred of Wirral, in
Cheshire, and are divided from Wales by a narrow channel, were
once, in all probability, part of the firm land of England. A few
miles to the west of Gronant Moor, under the parish of Abergele, in
Denbighshire, are to be seen at low water, very remote from the shore,
and bedded in the sand, immense numbers of oak trees ; and in the
churchyard wall of Abergele, is an epitaph with date, in Welsh,
signifying that the person who was interred there lived three miles to
the north of that spot, a tract now entirely possessed by the sea. A
little beyond Gronant is the old seat of Nant, formerly occupied by
the Conways, a branch of the Conwaysof Bryn-Euryn, hear Llandrillo
in Rhos, descended from Gruflfydd Goch (the red), Lord of Rhos
and Rhuvoniog. The following gentlemen's seats are in this parish :
— Talacre, a newly erected mansion belonging to Sir Edward Mostyn,
Bart, built near the site of an old house in the Elizabethan style, the
paternal seat of this branch of the Mostyn family ; the stone of which
it is formed was found upon the spot, and is allowed to be as beautiful
as any in the kingdom. The interior of this house, when in an
unfinished state, was accidentally burnt down on the morning of
Wednesday, the 12th of September, 1827 ; it is supposed that the
fire originated in some of the rooms where the carpenters and
plasterers were employed the day preceding. Golden Grove, the
old seat of the ancient family of Morgan ; of this family was Captain
Morgan, who fell upon Tegau mountain in the cause of Charles the
First, and lies there buried to the north of Llynn Helyg. Gyrn, the
newly-erected mansion of John Douglas, Esq. : here is a most mag-
nificent room, purposely built for a very valuable collection of
paintings by the most eminent masters of the celebrated schools in
Europe.

Nannerch hath its church dedicated to Saint Mary. In the church
is a monument to the memory of Charlotte Theophila Mostyn, wife of
Richard Mostyn, Esq. a former owner of Penbedw, and daughter of

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

and co-heiress (with her sister Margaretta Maria, who married Sir
John Conway, of Bodtruddan,) to John Digby, son of the famous
Sir Kenelm Digby, by which means several curious MSS. of that
gentleman's collection were brought into North Wales. In the
chancel window were formerly these words, — " Orate pro bono statu,
Howell ap John ap Dd ap Ithel," who is thought to have been
founder of the church. Penbedw is situate in a manor of the same
name, granted July 17th, 1544, by Henry the Eighth, and witnessed
by Queen Catherine Parr, to Pyers ap Howel otherwise Peter
Mostyn, of Wespre, in consideration of the payment of £7,300 in
hand paid. The grant recites that " it had been parcel of the posses-
sions of the Earl of Kent, in the commot of Dogvylyn, in the county
of Denbigh," The name of this parish is derived from Nan, for
Nant, "a dingle;" and erch, " gloomy."

OVERTON,

or Wrtin Vadog hath its church dedicated to Saint Mary. The
inhabitants of Knolton and Overton Foreign, paying scot and lot
in the parish of Overton, have a right to vote for a member of parlia-
ment for the town of Flint. There are no remains of the castle,
which stood in a field still called Castle Field : tradition' says that this
place was at one time the residence of Madog ap Meredydd, Prince
of Powys and Lord of Overton; on which account it was called
Overton Madock. The church is a handsome building, and the
churchyard is reckoned one of the wonders of Wales, on account of
the number of yew trees growing in it. A certain spot near Sodyllt,
not far from this place, divides England and Wales ; the provinces of
Canterbury and York ; the dioceses of Lichfield and Coventry,
Chester, and Saint Asaph ; and the counties of Salop, Flint, and
Denbigh; the hundreds of Oswestry, Maelor, and Bromfield ; the
parishes of Ellesmere, Overton, and Erbistock ; and the townships of
Dudleston, Knolton, and Erbistock.

Threap Wood.— This tract for many years had the ill fortune to be
extra-parochial, but in the year 1811 a chapel was built upon the
common and endowed : it is in the counties of Chester and Flint ;
this parish is surrounded by the parishes of Malpas, Hanmer, and
Worthenbury, but it belonged to neither till, by the militia acts, it
was decreed to be in the last, for the purpose of the militia only ; by
the mutiny acts, however, it is annexed to the parish of Malpas. The
Wich-brook rises in part of the parish of Malpas, but in the county
of Flint, near the Wiches, where there are brine springs and salt
works.

Tremeirchion (the town of Meirchion), or Dinas Meirchion (the
fort of Meirchion), hath its church dedicated to the Holy Trinity. —
In the church, under a handsome gothic arch, lies in priestly vestments,
well executed, a representation of the figure of David Ddu (or "the

black"),

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 213

black"), of Hiraddug, underneath is inscribed — " Hie jacet David ab
Roderic ab Madoc." — He was vicar of this place, and dignitary of
Saint Asaph, a prophet and a poet, he flourished between 1310 and
1360 ; a poetical translation of the office of the virgin, written by him,
is printed in the Welsh Archaiology ; he translated the psalms of
David into Welsh metre, and had a great concern in regulating the
Welsh prosody : here is also in the church a cross-legged figure of Sir
Robert Pounderling, who, it would seem, had obtained the merit of
pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre. The church is built on the
declivity of the Clwydian hills, and its situation is esteemed one of
the most beautiful spots on earth, for the extent, variety, and grandeur
of the prospects it affords. In a building adjoining the churchyard
may be seen the carved capital of an old cross, noted in the days of
popery for its miracles, and celebrated in a Welsh poem by a bard of
the name of Gruffydd ap levan ap Llewelyn Vychan, who flourished
about 1500.

Treuddyn, Treddin, or Treithin, hath its church dedicated to Saint
Mary. — Near this place is a large stone pillar, one of the most dis-
tinguished by the name of Maen-hir, and supposed to mark the grave
of some celebrated warrior, who fell in battle, it is called Carreg y
Llech ; it is about five feet high, seven broad, and eighteen inches
thick, placed erect on a tumulus coarsely paved.

The following eminent bards and learned and celebrated men were
natives or inhabitants of this county : ---Robert Ddu, a bard ; Edwin,
Prince of Tegeingl ; Ednowain Bendew, Lord of Tegeingl, 1079 ;
lolo Goch, bard, 1410; Davydd ap Edmund, bard, 1450; Madog
ap Gruflfydd Maelor, founder of Valle Crucis abbey ; Henry Perry,
who enlarged and published William Salisbury's Rhetoric ; Sir
John Glynn, Chief Justice ; Sir John Trevor and Sir Thomas Han-
mer, Speakers of the House of Commons ; Lloyd Lord Kenyon,
Lord Chief Justice ^ of the King's Bench; Thomas Pennant, of
Downing, Esq. historian and naturalist ; John Humffreys Parry, Esq.
editor of the Cambro-Briton and the Cambrian Plutarch.

MERIONETHSHIRE,

214 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

MERIONETHSHIRE,

.IN Welsh Meirion, or Meirionydd, or Sir Veirionydh, and by
Giraldus Terra Filiorum Conani. The face of this county is varied
throughout with a most romantic mixture of all the peculiar scenery
belonging to a wild and mountainous region, but less dreary than
Caernarvonshire, being much bolder and clothed with wood, yet not
less fertile in objects which impress the mind with astonishment.
The air of Merionethshire is very sharp in winter, on account of its
high and barren mountains. Some of the lakes abound with excellent
char, and singular crooked-back trouts. Beneath the lofty Berwyn
Hills, spreads a fine vale, with the infant Dee, although it only
receives the name on leaving Bala lake, yet some trace its head higher,
even to the lofty Aran, which Spenser makes the residence of Timon,
the foster-father to prince Arthur—

" His dwelling is full low in valley green,
Under the foot of Aran's mossy hoar,
From whence the river Dee, as silver clean,
His tumbling billows roll with gentle roar."

South of this spot begins an alpine region of narrow and deep vallies,
between high, verdant, and precipitous hills, with moors affording
peat, almost the only fuel of the country, while the Dyfi, a consider-
able river, rolls in the bottom; and at last forms the southern
boundary of Merionethshire.

CORWEN

hath its church dedicated to Saint Julian, who lived about the be-
ginning of the sixth century. It is a small town, built on a rock at
the foot of the Berwyn hills, and approached by crossing a handsome
bridge over the Dee. This place is become a great resort for anglers,
who merely frequent it for amusement, being well stocked with trout,
grayling, and many species offish, particularly salmon, which is much
esteemed by the epicure. Corwen is also remarkable for being the
rendezvous of the Welsh forces under Owen Gwynedd, and where he
stopped the invasion of Henry the Second in 1161. The place of
encampment may be easily distinguished by a mount of earth. The
church is built in the form of a cross, south of the village of Cynwyd.
On the south side of the church is cut a very rude cross, which is
shown to strangers as a representation of the sword of Owen Glyndwr.
Near the parish church stands a pointed rude stone, called Carreg-y-
big yn-y-fach-newlyd, which is said to have directed the founder
where to erect the church; and in the churchyard is another, the
shaft of which is inserted in a flat stone, and that supported by four

or

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 215

or five rude stones, as if the whole had been formed in imitation and
veneration of the sacred cromlechs of ancient times. In the church
is the tomb of one of its first vicars. There are also two hospitals in
the parish, one of them being for six widows of clergymen, who died
possessed of cure of souls in the county of Merioneth, and is endowed
by lands amounting to £60 per annum; the other for eight old
women of the parish. It is almost unncessary to observe, that the
lands about Corwen are in a high degree fertile, and finely variegated
with four deep and narrow vales on each side verging towards it as
the central part of a star, while the naked and intervening hills gra-
dually expand themselves before our eyes till terminated by the
horizon.

The little village of Cynwyd was formerly noted for the courts kept
there by the great men of the neighbourhood, to settle the boundaries
of their several claims on the wastes and commons, and to take cogni-
zance of the encroachments; but they have been long discontinued,
and the records destroyed.

About one mile north of Corwen is Caer Drewyn, an ancient
British post, on a steep hill, which commands a fine view of the vales
of Glyn Dyvrdwy* and Edeirnion. The post is circular, about half
a mile in circumference, and defended by a single wall mostly in
ruins ; yet in some places the facing remains, and in the thickness of
the walls are evident marks of stately apartments. It had apparently
two entrances near the north-east, with an oblong square added to the
main structure, where the ground is flat, besides being strengthened
with a great ditch and wall. Within this are the foundations of rude
stone buildings, one of which is circular, and several yards in diameter :
the ditch is carried much farther than the wall, and seems an un-
finished addition. It is conjectured that Owen Gwynedd occupied
this post when Henry the Second lay encamped on the Berwyn Hills,
and it was afterwards used by Owen Glyndwr.

Pont-y-Glyn, or the bridge of the precipice, is six miles from
Corwen, on the road to Llanrwst. This bridge stands at the head of
a woody glen with prominent rocks, almost obscured by the surround-
ing foliage. It consists of a single arch, thrown over the rugged bed
of a precipitous river, where, among immense masses of rock, the
stream foams most furiously. The cataract is not very high, but
situate immediately under the bridge, where its white foam, dashing
among dark opposing rocks, with pendant foliage on each side, forms
a scene highly picturesque and elegant ; the bridge stands upon two
nearly perpendicular rocks of about sixty feet high from the bed

below,

* This vale is much celebrated as the residence of Owen Glyndwr, whose memory is
still highly revered in its neighbourhood, as being the scene of his great exploits and
hospitality. He is in history styled Glyndwr, from Glyndyvrdwy or Glyndwrdwy, his
small patrimony or possessions in the vale of Glyndwrdwy, now commonly called Llan-
gollen. Some remains of one of his mansions are still visible at a place called Sychnant,
about three miles from Corwen,

216 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

below, and, if viewed from the centre of the arch, appears grand
and tremendous. To the south of Corwen are the Berwyn mountains,
a long chain of hills commonly so called : this ridge occupies the
eastern side of Merionethshire, and branches into Denbighshire and
Montgomeryshire. Its northern boundary is the Dee, its southern
the Tanad, being in length from north to south sixteen miles, in
breadth from five to ten. Cader Berwyn and Cader Fronwen are the
most elevated points. This district is but thinly inhabited, but the
air is very salubrious and congenial to longevity, which accords well
with the aphorisms of Churchyard in 1587 :

** The mountayne men live longer many a yeare
Than those in vale, in playne, or marrish soyle j
A lustie hart, a clean complexion clere
They have, on hill that for hard living toyle.
With ewe and lamb, with goats and kids they play,
In greatest toyles, to rub out wcarie day ;
And when to house and home good fellowes draw
The lads can laugh at turning of a strawe."

The mountains are chiefly composed of primitive schistus, or such
as does not contain iron pyrites, or any impression of organized bodies,
the position of the strata being generally perpendicular to the plane
of the horizon : the only metal found in these mountains are lead and
calamine, whose matrix is coarse quartz schistus. There are no lakes
in the whole extent of these mountains, nor stream of any conse-
quence, except the Ceiriog, which flows by Chirk. The soil is peat,
with some bogs of a grey clay, formed probably from the decom-
position of the rock, but the drier parts are covered with heath. The
bogs or turbaries supply the inhabitants with fuel, which would other-
wise be extremely scarce here and in its vicinity. Of quadrupeds the
fox is the chief, and commits frequent depredations, while an exten-
sive, and almost unoccupied, territory affords him a secure retreat.
Many rare mountainous plants are also found here, whose fruits are
grateful food for grouse.

Towards the western extremity of these mountains is Llandervel,
having its church dedicated to Saint Dervel, surnamed the Strong, or
Dervel Gadarn, who lived about the close of the sixth century. This
village was formerly remarkable for the wooden image of Saint Dervel
Gadarn, concerning which the Welsh had a prophecy, that it would
set a whole forest on fire : to complete which it is said to have been
taken to London in the year 1538, and used as part of the fuel which
consumed Forest, the friar, in Smithfield, for denying the Pope's
supremacy.

Returning from this digression we proceed in a south-westerly
direction, and at the distance of about nine miles, pass through Llan-
for or Llanfawr y Mhenllyn, which hath its church dedicated to Saint
Deiniol, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. This place
was formerly of considerable importance, and is remarkable as the

supposed

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

217

supposed place of interment of Llywarch Hen, a Cumbrian prince,
and a most celebrated bard and warrior, in the seventh century, who,
after a long life of misfortune, died at the advanced age of 150. Dr.
Davies mentions an inscription, in his time to be seen on the wall,
under which he was interred. Near this place is a circle of stones,
called Pabell Llywarch Hen, or " Llywarch the Aged's tent," where
tradition says he had a house, wherein he spent the latter part of his
life : his valour in opposing the encroachments of the Saxons and
Irish is well known in British history, wherein we are informed he
lost his patrimonial possessions and twenty-four of his valiant sons,
who fell nobly in the field of battle. After this irreparable misfortune
and distress, some historians say he retired to a hut near Machynlleth,
to sooth with his harp the sorrows of old age, which were numerous
and distressing, as he pathetically describes in his elegies on that
subject. His works, Heroic Elegies, &c. were published by that
great patron of Welsh literature, Mr. Owen Jones, of Thames-street,
London, a native of Llanfihangel Glynn Myfyr, who also published
the Welsh Archaiology. Rhiwlas, the ancient seat of the family of
Price, is pleasantly situate on an eminence at some distance from the
church, upon the banks of the river Trowerin. Rhiwedog, in this
parish, is one of the most ancient family seats in North Wales, and is
generally supposed to have been the residence of Rhirid, surnamed
" The Wolf" (Rhirid Flaidd). He derived this cognomen from his
maternal ancestor, Blaidd Rhudd, or " The ruddy Wolf," of Gest,
near Penmorva, in Caernarvonshire. Rhirid lived about the year
1200. Cynddelw Brydydd Mawr, a celebrated bard of that age,
addressed some beautiful verses to him, on receiving from his hands
a present of an elegant sword. Cynddelw was bard to Madog ap
Meredydd, Prince of Powys. A portion of the verses have been thus
translated : —

A noble wolf doth me befriend,
To me his ready aid he'll lend :
Not the wild wolf that prowls for prey,
And drives the harmless flocks away ;
No ! hut a wolf in human form
Whom every virtue doth adorn ;
Ririd the brave, great Penllyn's lord,
Disdains all useful pelf to hoard ;
He said, as late I quaffed his wine,
This silver mounted sword be thine ;
His shining sword shall grace my side,
His noble gift shall be my pride.

About the year 1450, Rhiwedog was the property of Eineon ap Ithel,
Esquire to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, as we are informed in
the history of the Gwydir family; and as the Nannau, Glynn-Llivon,
and many other familes, were allied to the House of Rhiwedog by
marriage and otherwise, this will account for many of the Welsh
espousing the Lancastrian cause. The heads of this family for many
generations continued to be liberal supporters of the Welsh bards.

Llanvair

218 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

. e. Saint Mary's Church) juxta Harlech. — The church
is very plain and simple, as most of the country churches in Wales
are, and there are very few houses in the village. Here Archbishop
Baldwin and Giraldus Cambrensis slept one night on their journey
from Towyn to Nevin, when preaching the Crusades in 1188.
At the distance of one mile from Llanvair we pass through

BALA,

a market town in, Llan-y-Cil parish, consi'sting chiefly of one wide
street, situate at the bottom of a large pool, called Llyn-Tegid, or
" The Fair Lake." This place carries on a considerable trade in
woollen yarn and stockings, and is the residence of many genteel
families; it is also the places where the County Assizes are held
alternately with Dolgellau. The Montgomeryshire Parliamentary
forces invaded this county August 21, 1645, and lay a week at Bala,
until they were driven out by Sir John Owen and the North Wales
men. Close to the town, to the south-east, is an artificial mount,
probably Roman, called Tommen-y-Bala, the Bala Barrow or Tu-
mulus, one of the chain efforts in this county; among which is
Tommen-y-Castell, on a mountain in the road to Ruthin, and another
on the opposite side of Bala Lake, perhaps Bala Castle, founded by
Llewelyn ap lorwerth in 1202, now cut through by the road, as well
as Caer-Crwyni, a small camp near the Vale of Edeirnion. A little
to the south-west of the town is Bala Lake, or Pimble Mere, by far
the largest lake in all Wales. This fine expanse of water is nearly
4 miles long, 400 yards broad, and 46 yards deep, with three yards of
mud. The water rises sometimes nine feet, and overflows the Vale of
Edeirnion, consequently it has greatly extended its boundaries to the
north-east shore. It is well-stocked with fish, particularly perch,
pike, roach, trout, eels, and shoals of that alpine fish called gwyniad,
so named from the whiteness of its scales, and called by some the
fresh water whiting, which spawn in December, and are taken in
great numbers in spring; they are common to most of the alpine
parts of Europe. It is a gregarious fish of an insipid taste, and dies
soon after it is taken, therefore it is dressed directly; the largest
weigh about four pounds, and they are taken in nets, by reason of
their keeping close to the bottom of the lake. The water, like that
of most other rocky lakes, is so pure that the most delicate chemical
tests detect scarcely any perceptible quantity of foreign mixture;
sometimes, in severe winters, it has happened that the lake has been
completely frozen over, and when covered with snow has been
mistaken by strangers for a vale or plain. The shores of the pool
are extremely diversified, and from every point of view present an
agreeable and striking prospect of corn fields and cultivated meadows,
bounded with rich verdure, accompanied by water, which discharges
itself from the lake, forming the river Dee, which takes its course by

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 219

a rocky hill of considerable elevation and covered with an old wood,
until it terminates in the lofty summit of Aran-ben-Llyn, almost
shrouded in clouds; while rising high in the distant horizon is seen
the terrible head of the majestic Cader Idris. From the north-
eastern corner of the lake (as before noticed) issues the river Dee, the
etymology of which has been often a subject of great controversy,
some deriving it from Ddhu " divine," others from Dim, meaning
" black" or " dark," and a third affirms that the appellation arose
from the two sources of the river, the word du meaning " two;"
but where all have an equal claim it is difficult to decide. The lake
and fishery formerly belonged to Basingwerk Abbey, but it is at
present the sole property of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart. ^

Proceeding along the western shore of the lake, and at the distance
of about seventeen miles, we pass through

DOLGELLAU,

a respectable market town, and the place where the assizes for the
summer are held : it is seated in a wide and fertile vale, between the
rivers Aran and Mawddach, and surrounded on all sides with high
mountains, some of which are well wooded : the streets are irregular,
and the houses in general ill built : among the buildings the town hall
is the most respectable. The church, dedicated to Saint Mary, has a
respectable external appearance ; within is an antique monument of an
armed knight, with a dog at his feet, and a lion on his shield, on it is
inscribed, — " Hie jacet Meuric filius Ynyr Vychan ;" it is to the
memory of an ancestor of the Nannau family. This town appears to
have been known to the Romans, although there are at present no
remains to justify the assertion, except some Roman coins found at a
well in its vicinity, called Ffynnon-Vawr, bearing this inscription —
" IMP. CAESAR TRAI AN." which is evidently Roman, and gives in
some degree a sanction to the hypothesis. From hence the celebrated
Owen Glyndwr, in 1404, sent his chancellor (Griffith Yonge) and his
relation (John Hanmer), to the court of France with letters of
credence, to seek to strengthen his cause ; and he succeeded in some
degree, as a body of troops landed at Milford, marched up the
country, and took Caermarthen. The appointment of the ambassadors
is dated Dolgellau, and couched in princely style. Part of the house
in which he and his ministers met is still standing, and known by the
name of Plas yn Dref. — At a place called Pen Ystrad, i. e. the head of
the street, on the road leading from Dolgellau to Trawsfynnydd, I saw,
says Sir Richard Hoare, undoubted and perfect remains of the cause-
way pointing to the station of Heriri Mons, at Tommen y Mur.

About one mile to the east of Dolgellau, on the right of our road, is
Llanilltyd, having its church dedicated to Saint Illtyd. — It is a
flourishing village, containing several good houses, beautifully situated
on the river Mawddach, which serves as a port to Dolgellau, and

where

220 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

where many vessels are built ; but large vessels are unable to get out
of the shallow passage frojn Cardigan to Barmouth harbour, except
they take advantage of the equinoctial tides. The banks on each side
run alternately in steep promontories, and are wooded to the water's
edge so as to completely hide the termination of the river, and cause it
to resemble a broad and beautiful lake, while on the south side, behind
the banks, rise abruptly vast and craggy cliffs, which surround and
almost conceal the summit of the celebrated Cader Idris. About one
mile on the north is Cymmer abbey, called in Welsh Y-Vana, or
Vanner, it is situated in a verdant bottom, near the banks of the
Mawddach. The ruins of this ancient abbey are specimens of its
former grandeur, but by whom erected is uncertain : it was of the
Cistertian order, and founded, probably, in the year 1198, by
Meredith ap Gruffydd, a descendant of Owen Gwynedd : though,
according to Mr. Vaughan, of Hengwrt, it was dedicated to Saint
Mary, and was founded by some monks, who sojourned here from
Abbey Cwmhir, Radnorshire, to which it appears to have been a
colony. In the Notitia Monastica of Bishop Tanner it is men-
tioned as founded by Llewylyn, the son of Gervase or lorwerth,
about 1200 ; at any rate he seems to have been a benefactor, and, as
Prince of North Wales, to have confirmed the donations of others in
1209, as well as his own : but there does not appear any reason what-
ever to think him founder, nor is the time of the foundation clear. It
seems to have been in a flourishing condition in 1231 ; for Henry the
Third, in marching against Llewelyn ap lorwerth, would have burnt
it, had not the abbot ransomed it by paying three hundred marks, and
some other recompence for the injury done to the king by his late
treachery. In the year 1291, according to an ancient record in the
Augmentation Office, the abbey had in yearly revenues arising from
granges, pastures, and other temporal possessions £11. 14s. 1 Id. and
previous to its dissolution, in pursuance of the statute 27th Hen. VIII.
the commissioners reported it to be worth, in spiritualities and
temporalities, £51 . 13s. 4d. Of the old fabric there are considerable
remains, but in length very disproportionate for the width, being
between thirty and forty yards long, and not above eight broad : the
east end is the most perfect, covered with ivy, through which are seen
three small lancet windows : against the south wall are a few small
gothic pillars and arches, with an aperture in the wall, where was
probably kept the holy water : in this part of the building was a
semicircular door, opposite to two small arches, and near them a
mutilated stone representing the head of a human figure. These
remains are part of the church, with the refectory, and abbot's
lodgings, adjoining the farm-house. The other parts are much
shattered, and in many places badly patched with modern work to
render it useful to the farmer on whose ground it stands ; the site and
ruins remained in the Crown for many years, and were not granted

away

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 221

away till Queen Elizabeth bestowed it on Robert Earl of Leicester,
about the twentieth year of her reign. — Near this abbey stood Cymmer
castle, built by Uchtryd ap Edwyn, but the spot at present is not
precisely known ; it w'as demolished in 1116 by Eineon ap Gruffydd,
and the property divided.

About two miles from Cymmer Abbey is Dol-y-Melynllyn, where
the river Gamlan falls from various rocks till it reaches a lofty
precipice among trees, called Rhaiadr-ddu, or the Black Cataract.
It is a double fall, about 60 feet high, where the water foams with a
thundering noise down some black rocks, giving to the scene a
singular appearance, which is increased by being covered in many
places with a pure white lichen; the torrent falls into a small deep
basin, from whence it dashes itself along its rugged channel. About
one mile from this is another cataract, called Rhaiadr-y-Mawddach,
situate in the river of that name, where the water forces itself down a
rock of 60 feet high, in which the stream is three times broken in its
fall to the basin : the rocks and trees form an amphitheatre round it,
but the upper part of the rock is too much hidden by intervening
obstructions. Near the latter is Pistill-y-lain, which is by far the
highest and most magnificent of the three; it consists of a narrow
stream rushing down a vast rock at least 150 feet high, whose
horizontal strata run in irregular steps through its whole breadth,
forming a mural front, but the regularity in a great measure spoils its
picturesque beauty : the immense fragments of broken rocks, scattered
around in every direction at the foot of the fall, communicate a
pleasing effect, which is farther heightened by the agreeable tints of
oak and beech foliage, and as a whole possesses much local beauty
and romantic scenery.

A few miles from this place is Nannau, an ancient seat of the
Nannau family, now of the family of Vaughan: it was formerly the
residence of Hywel Sele, an inveterate enemy of Owen Glyndwr.
The estate is covered with fine timber, which clothes all the sides of
the dingles for many miles: the park is remarkable for its small
but very excellent venison. In this parish is a spring, called Ffynnon
y Capel, which makes it probable that there was formerly a chapel
near it. The learned Philip Yorke, Esq. in his " Royal Tribes of
Wales" says of the family of Nannau : " From Cadwgan, the second
son of the founder of the tribe [Bleddyn ap Cynfyn], descend the
Nanneys of Nannau; the elder daughter and heiress of the last of the
male line, Hugh Nanney, married William Vaughan, Esq. of Corsy-
gedol, but no issue remaining from this match, the estate hath
devolved to Sir Robert Williames Vaughan, the grandson of the
twin-sister of his great-aunt, Mrs. Vaughan. Sir Robert has
improved the place (in itself distinguished) by a good family mansion,
which is said to have one of the highest situations of a gentleman's
house in Great Britain."

Returning

222 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Returning on our road from Dolgellau, we proceed in a south-
easterly direction, and on our right pass Cader-Idris, or Cadair-
Idris, a lofty mountain, so called from a tradition of its having been
a fortress belonging to Idris, who is supposed to have been a prince
in these parts in ancient times. It is also said that Idris was a giant,
a great poet, astronomer, and philosopher, and that the summit of
Cader Idris was his favourite seat and observatory : he was a
personage ranked, according to Mr. Owen, with Gwdion ap Don and
Gwyn ap Nudd, under the appellation of the three sublime astro-
nomers of Great Britain, whose profound knowledge of the stars, their
nature, and aspects, enabled them to explain events. The time when
he flourished cannot be determined, it being before the era of history.
This mountain extends above 2900 feet high, and is above a mile in
length, and very rocky towards the summit, which is covered with
huge fragments of discoloured rocks, very rugged, and cemented by
a semi-vitrified matter of volcanic appearance. On this mountain are
several pools, particularly Llyn-Curry and Llyn-y-Cae, with a lake
on the top, and near it the supposed chair of Arthur, a natural cavity
in the rock; along one side, where the hill recedes, is a stupendous
precipice, forming a kind of theatre; and on the opposite side is
Craig-Cay, a great rock, with a lake below lodged in a deep hollow.
Descending from the Cader to Cyfrarvy, the whole space for a
considerable way is covered with loose stones like a stream of lava,
many of them columnar, but not jointed, lying very disorderly in all
directions, and are of a great thickness. Pen-y-Gader is about 950
yards above the green near Dolgellau ; and the other mountain, called
2\ran Benllyn, is 740 yards above Llyn-Tegid. Beneath Tyrrau-
Mawr, one of the points of Cader-Idris, and on the right, are some
remains of circles of upright stones, with many earns, and several
Maeni-hirion, or rude upright columns. At a small distance
beyond these, near the river Krogennan, are the remains of Llys-
Bradwen, or the palace of Ednowain, chief of one of the fifteen
tribes of North Wales about the reign of GrufFydd ap Cynan,
measuring nearly thirty yards square, and having an entrance seven
feet wide, with a large upright stone on each side as a door case :
the walls are rude and uncemented. The peak of Cader Idris is
the beginning of a chain of primitive mountains, extending in a north-
east direction towards the Arans and Arenigs : it is likewise much
loftier and more craggy than the slate and secondary mountains which
surround it, and consists of siliceous porphyry, quartz, and felspar,
enclosed in a green paste, with siliceous schistose porphyry, inter-
sected with veins of quartz and argillaceous porphyry in a mass, and
a dark grey paste. Several rocks contain the component parts of
granite and porphyry, with a great portion of white greasy-looking
quartz. The views from this mountain are very extensive and
beautiful, particularly Bala Pool and its adjoining mountains; while

towards

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 223

towards the south is seen the county of Montgomery, and Plinlim-
mon ; on the west Cardigan bay, and from St. David's quite round to
Caernarvonshire.

At the distance of nine miles beyond Dolgellau we arrive at Dinas
Mawddwy, the principal town in the lordship of that name: its church
is dedicated to Saint Tydecho. Notwithstanding its dignified name
Dinas, " City," the place consists of only one street, with nothing to
recommend it to notice except the church, which is a handsome build-
ing, but the houses scarcely rank above the common cottages of the
country.— After the wars of the houses of York and Lancaster, multi-
tudes of felons and outlaws inhabited this part of the country, and
. established themselves in the lordship. For a length of time after
those unhappy days, this race of profligates continued to rob, burn,
and murder, in defiance of the civil power, and to steal and drive
whole herds of cattle in mid-day, from one county to another, with
the utmost impunity. To put a stop to these ravages a commission
was granted to John Wynn ap Meredydd, of Gwydir, and to Lewis
Owen, Esq. one of the Welsh Exchequer Barons and Vice-Chamber-
lain of North Wales (who lived at Llwyn), for the purposes of
punishing all offenders against the government, and settling the peace
of the country. In pursuance of their orders they raised a body of
stout men, and, on Christmas-eve, seized about eighty outlaws and
felons, on whom they held a gaol delivery, and punished them
according to their deserts : among them were two young men, whose
mother earnestly applied to Lewis Owen for the pardon of one of
them. This request, however, he refused, when the mother, baring
her neck with desperate fury, exclaimed — "These yellow breasts
have given suck to those who shall wash their hands in your blood."
Revenge was determined upon by these surviving villains ; they
watched their opportunity, when Baron Owen was passing from
Montgomeryshire Great Sessions, to way-lay him in the thick woods
of Dugoed Mawddwy, at a place now called, from the deed, Llidiarty
Barwn (the gate of the baron), where they had cut down several large
trees to cross the road and impede the passage; they discharged
against him a shower of arrows, one of which penetrated his cheek :
they then attacked him with bills and javelins, and left him slain,
with about thirty wounds on his body. His son-in-law John Lloyd,
Esq. defended him to the last, but his cowardly attendants fled on the
first onset : this atrocious crime was committed in 1 555 ; and, in
consequence of it, vigorous measures were adopted for the public
safety, and the whole of the banditti were extirpated ; many were
taken, tried and executed, and the rest fled from the country. The
traditions of the country respecting this body of ruffians are extremely
strong ; and it is said they were so much feared, that travellers did
not dare to go along the common road, but passed over the summits

of

Kk

224 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of the mountains to avoid their haunts ; and that the inhabitants
placed scythes in the chimneys to prevent these marauders from
coming down to surprise them in the night. Some of these scythes
were to be seen in the chimneys at a recent period. This gang was
distinguished by the titles of Gwylliaid y Dugoed (i. e. the night-
prowlers of Dugoed), and the Gwylliaid Cochion Mawddwy (the
red headed Banditti of Mawddwy) : on the road from Dinas to
Dolgellau are situated some deserted lead mines, where there is some
blueish ochre, which the shepherds wet and pound in a mortar, then
form into balls and use it in marking their sheep. An old proverb of
the three things which Mawddwy wishes to send out of the country,
shows their long knowledge of it : —

In Mawddwy black, three things remain,
False men, blue earth, and ceaseless rain :
Of these they'd gladly riddance gain.

The lordship of Mawddwy was first granted to William fourth son
of Gruffydd ap Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powys ; his grand-daughter
and sole heiress married Sir Hugh de Burghe, son of the well known
Hugh Burghe, Justiciary of England. His son Sir John left four
daughters, who married into the houses of Newport, Leighton,
Lingen, and Mytton. Eleanor the fourth daughter, bestowed her
hand and this seigniory on Thomas Mytton, Esq. of Halston, in the
county of Salop, in which family it still (1830) remains.

Ffestiniog hath its church dedicated to Saint Michael ; it is a small
village situate at the head of Cwm Maentwrog, and was much noticed
and brought before public observation by Lord Lyttelton in 1756;
indeed every person will admit that few vales afford such lovely
prospects as this, being bounded by high mountains, shaded with
lofty oaks, and richly cultivated, with the placid river Dwyrhyd in the
centre, and the sea at a distance, which terminates the view. Con-
tiguous to the public-house in this village are two remarkable water-
falls, called Cynvel : one about three hundred yards above the house,
and the other below a rustic bridge thrown over the river, to which
the path leads. The upper fall consists of three steep rocks, over
which the water foams into a deep black basin, overshadowed by the
adjoining rocks ; the other is formed by a broad sheet of water,
precipitated down a rock forty feet high, and darkened by a numerous
foliage around it, almost to the edge of the stream. Between the
cataract and the bridge is a tall columnar rock, called " the pulpit of
Hugh Llwyd," situate in the bed of the river : this man was a bard
and a reputed magician, who lived in the time of Charles the First,
and the tradition is that he used to retire to this rock when he was
seized with the awen, and also to deliver his nocturnal incantations.
He entered into the army and was abroad many years, and returned
home in his old age, but no one knew him : he found his sister-in-law,
her husband and children, sitting one tine summer's evening on a

stone

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

225

stone seat which he himself had placed there. He addressed them in
English, and asked would they lodge him that night ; and though they
did not understand the language, they conjectured what he wanted,
and desired him to come in and partake of their fare, milk and flum-
mery : he complied with their request, and when they had finished
their meal he addressed them in some extempore lines, of which the
following is a translation : —

For wines delicious is mighty France renown'd,
.And various dainties are in London found :
With butter Holland half the world supplies,
But Cambria's flummery more than all 1 prize.

About two miles from hence is a fine spring, which has often been
found efficacious in rheumatic and ricketty complaints : it is situate
between the rivers Dwyrhyd and Cynfael, and gives name to a vale
which is much celebrated for its picturesque beauty. Not far from
thence is a very fine Roman camp, most judiciously placed in a
situation over an extensive view of the country, partly level, partly
inclining from it, and commanding a number of passes to the lesser
posts of this mountainous tract ; it is called Tommen y Mvir, i. e.
" the mountain within the wall," and coins and urns and other
antiquities are frequently discovered in it : Sarn Helen, or the way of
Helen, who was the wife of the Emperor Maximus, runs into it at
one end, and is continued to Rhyd yr Helen within this parish.

About four miles to the west of Ffestiniog is Pont-Aberglaslyn, a
bridge which unites the counties of Merioneth and Caernarvon. It
consists of one wide stone arch, across the united torrents of the
Colwyn and Glas-Llyn, and connects two perpendicular precipices
with its semicircular arch, which is in diameter 30 feet, the crown about
40 feet above the water, with an impending cliff at least 80 feet high
projecting from every part, forming a broken front of a most capricious
form, and which shadows a roaring cataract among huge ruins that
have fallen from the mountains; just above it the whole river falls
down a craggy break of about 12 feet high, forming what is called
the Salmon Leap : the scenery around is very grand, and soon
attracts our admiration, with the road winding along a narrow stony
vale, between dark perpendicular cliffs on each hand, so as only to
leave room to pass at the bottom, which leads to an impetuous stream
rolling close by its side. The salmon leap measures from the bed of
the river about thirteen feet ; but after much rain only eight or nine.
This cataract is but a few miles from the sea, and has long been
remarkable for the great number of salmon which come up the river
in the beginning of October, in order to deposit their spawn on the
sandy shallows contiguous. It is not uncommon to see, in the course
of an hour, twenty or thirty attempting to pass the cataract , but they
seldom succeed on account of a net which the renter of the fishery
places here to prevent them. In the reign of Henry the Fourth this

was
K k 2

226 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

was a royal weir, arid is supposed to have belonged to some of the
Welsh princes before that period. Round the base of a neighbouring
mountain is a copper mine belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, from which
issues a stream of water, strongly impregnated with the sulphate of
copper and iron, which must injure the fishery considerably, parti-
cularly in dry seasons.

Returning on our road at the distance of about eleven miles, after
passing through the villages of Maentwrog and Llan-Tecwyn, we
arrive at Harlech, in the parish of Llan-Danwg. It derives its
name Ar-lech from its situation on the rock ; or, according to others,
from Hardd-lech, " the beautiful rock." Its castle is inaccessible on
the side next the sea ; and, prior to the invention of gunpowder, it
must have been impregnable. On the land side the castle is protected
by a deep foss. This fortress was anciently called Twr-Bronwen,
from the daughter of Llyr, of Harlech, wife of Matholwch, and sister
of Bran ap Llyr, King of Britain. In after times it obtained the
name of Caer Collwyn, " Collwyn's castle," from Collwyn ap Tangno,
head of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales, and Lord of
Eivionedd, Ardudwy, and part of Lleyn. His grandchildren flourish-
ed in the reign of Gruffvdd ap Cynan. He resided sometimes in a
square tower in the ancient fortress, the remains of which are very
apparent. The castle consists of a square building, each side measur-
ing about seventy yards, having at each corner a round tower, from
each of which issued formerly a circular turret, most of them now
destroyed. The entrance is between two great towers, like Caer-
narvon, but the chief apartments appear to have been over the
gateway, in a building which projected into a court, and at each
corner of the building a round tower : these fortifications, fosses, and
situation on the verge of a perpendicular rock, rendered it almost
invulnerable. The Welsh histories generally attribute the foundation
of this castle to Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, about
the year 530, and state that Edward the First founded the present
edifice on the ruins of the former, some part of which is now distin-
guishable from the more modern work. In 1404, Owen Glyndwr
seized the castle from Henry the Fourth, but it was again retaken in
1408, and sheltered Margaret of Anjou, as, subsequently to the battle
of Northampton in 146!), she fled to Coventry, and from thence
retired to this fortress. After a short stay here she went to Scotland,
and, collecting her friends in the North of England, marched to
Wakefield, where she gained a complete victory over the Duke of
York and the Earl of Salisbury. In 1468, after a short siege, it was
taken by the Earl of Pembroke, of whom Sir John Wynne, in his
" History of the Gwydir Family" quotes some British lines, ex-
pressive of the ravages and oppressions committed by him in the
counties of Merioneth and Denbigh. Among the many tempestuous
scenes Harlech castle has experienced, the last occurred in 1647,

when

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 227

when William Owen, who was governor, with a garrison of only
twenty-eight men, surrendered it to Oliver Cromwell's forces under
General Mytton, but not until every castle in Wales had deserted the
royal cause. It is also said to have been the last in England which
held out for the House of Lancaster. Of the castle nothing of
importance occurred since ; and the town, which Edward the First
formed into a borough, gradually degenerated in importance. In
1692 an ancient golden torques was dug up in a garden near the
castle, which is described as a wreathed bar, or three or four rods
twisted together, and about four feet long, but bent in the form of a
hatband with hooks at each end, neither sharp nor twisted, but plain
and cut even, of a circular form, about an inch in circumference, and
weighing eight ounces. This valuable relic of antiquity was in the
possession of the Mostyn family. Several Roman coins have been
likewise found in and near the town, which proves its origin to have
been of great antiquity. There is a celebrated Welsh tune called
" Gorhoffedd Gwyr Harlech," or the March of the Men of Harlech,
published in the first volume of Mr. Edward Jones's " Musical and
Poetical Reliques of the Welsh Bards" This neighbourhood, in
1694, was annoyed by a very singular phenomenon, in appearance like
a prodigious fire or kindled exhalation proceeding from the sea, which
set fire to sixteen stacks of hay and two barns. In this destructive
manner it lasted about twelve days, ravaging the country about
Harlech, and poisoning the grass with its stench. The flame, which
was peculiarly destructive in the night, had a weak blue appearance,
easily extinguished without injuring the people, who frequently
ventured to it, and often in it, to save their effects : yet it was of that
infectious nature, that it absolutely killed the cattle which fed on the
grass; and was not only during the time it lasted conspicuous to the
eyes, but for three years afterwards it caused a great mortality among
cattle, horses, and sheep. In the year 1694 the Rev. Mr. Jones, of
Llandanwg, transmitted to the London Philosophical Society an
account of this singular phenomenon, accompanied by a catalogue of
its ravages. It was distinguished by the different names of Ignis
Fatuus, Ignis Lambens, Scintilla frolans, fyc. It continued for
some months, but appeared only occasionally, once or twice a week :
it seemed to begin at Morva Bychan, on the Caernarvonshire side,
and then to cross over to Morva Harlech, or Harlech Marsh. Mr.
Humphrey Llwyd attributes this strange phenomenon to locusts that
arrived here about two months before, which, being drowned in the
sea, or dying of extreme cold on land, are supposed to have occasioned
this infection. This hypothesis is founded on the number of locusts
found dead near the sea shore. It appeared chiefly in stormy nights,
and sometimes in calm evenings ; but any great noise, such as sounding
of horns, firing of guns, &c. repelled it, and often extinguished the
same ; which means, it is said, saved much hay and corn from its
baneful effects.

About

228 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

About two miles from Harlech is a remarkable monument, called
Koeten Arthur : it is a large stone table, somewhat of an oval form,
but rude and ill-shaped, as are the rest of these monuments, about 10
feet long, and 7 feet where it is broadest, 2 feet thick at one end, but
not above an inch at the other ; it is placed on rude stone pillars,
each half a yard broad, whereof two that support the thick end are
between seven and eight feet high, but a third (at the other end) is
about three feet only.

About 8 miles from Harlech we pass on our left Corsygedol, an
ancient seat of the family of Vaughan : near this seat, on Craig-y-
Dinas, is a hill surrounded with a vast heap of stones contiguous to
the ruins of a wall, which in many places retain a regular and even
facing, with an oblique entrance, faced with stones at the sides. One
mile further is Llyn-Bodlin, a small lake; and in the same neigh-
bourhood Llyn-cwm-Howel, noted for a race of trout with flat heads
like toads, first noticed by Giraldus Cambrensis. On a plain beyond
Llyn-Irddin are two circles of stones, forming a hill, with upright
columns five yards from each other, and contiguous are smaller ones
of a similar form. Half a mile from these, on' the side of a bill, are
two oblong carneddau, composed of loose stones, with large stones in
the centre, fifty feet long and twelve high. At the east end is a
great cromlech, composed of two sloping stones, one placed over the
edge of the other, on five flat stones placed upright, the highest
measuring 7 feet 10 inches and the lowest not less than 4 feet 10.
Adjoining to these are many more, particularly Maen-Hirion, and
other cromlechs.

At the distance of 4 miles from Corsygedol, and 12 from Jlarlech,
we arriye a£

BARMOUTH,

in the parish of Llan-Aber, a small town at the bottom of a steep hill
near the sea, and at the mouth of the river Mawddach, where the
tide at high water forms a bay of about one mile over, but the
entrance is hazardous on account of the sand banks. From its
situation near the bottom of some high mountains, the houses are
placed on the steep side, one above another, in such a manner as to
give the upper an opportunity of seeing down t)ie chimnies .of their
adjacent neighbours, and is considered very much to resemble
Gibraltar. The town derives its name of Barmouth frojn the river
lW[a.vi or JVtawddach, i. e. Abermaw. Within these few years there
were the remains of an ancient tower, in which Henry Earl of
Richmond used to conceal Himself when he came over to consult his
friends about tjie proposed revolution, and it is celebrated in a poem
of those times, comparing in point of strength this place with
Reinallt's Tower, near Mold. This town is the port of Merioneth-
shire, where the principal manufactures are flannels and hosiery,
which the inhabitants export to a large amount. This town has

greatly

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 229

greatly improved under the patronage of the Bishop of the Diocese,
Sir Robert Williames Vaughan, Bart, and other gentlemen.

The ride from Barmouth to Dolgellau, which is along the banks of
the river Maw, is greatly admired, on account of the grandeur of the
views and prospects. On the south side of the river is a fine range of
mountains, overtopped by the gigantic Cader Idris. There are
several vessels belonging to the port of Barmouth, most of them built
there, and they are generally considered to be the best of any built in
North Wales. "

At the distance of about 12 miles to the south of Barmouth is

TOWYN,

or Tywyn, a neat village, situate on a riyerof that name, and greatly
improved by its proprietor, Mr. Corbet, of Ynysymaengwyn. Of
public edifices the church is most remarkable, with several handsome
monuments. In the churchyard were two rude pillars, one called
Saint Cad van's Stone, shaped like a wredge, and about 7 feet high,
with a cross and inscription : a gentleman of eccentric taste (with
the Vicar's consent) caused them to be removed, some years ago, to
decorate his grotto in the neighbourhood; but upon some remon-
strance being made upon the impropriety of such an act, they were
restored. Cadvan had, at the north-east end of the churchyard, a
free chapel, of which the green site only now remains. Saint Cadvan,
who lived, as some say, about the year 250 (and who was considered
as the tutelar saint of warriors), is supposed to have been buried
inside of this church ; and probably the stone or monumeut above-
mentioned is the only fragment of his .tomb. Gwenddydd, one of the
daughters of Brychan Brycheiniog, married to Cadell, Prince of
Powys, was buried here about the end of the fifth century. The
well of Saint Cadvan is not far distant: it is celebrated for the cure of
various diseases, such as rheumatism, scurvy, scrofula, erysipelas,
wens, warts, &c. and the number of people that have resorted to it is
astonishing. The agricultural improvement in this part is entirely
owing to the great spirit and exertions of Mr. Corbet, of Ynysymaen-
gwyn. In the month of August, 1645, the king's forces burnt that
mansion, lest the parliamentary forces shoujd find any harbour there.
The late proprietor of this .beautiful mansion, by his spirited exer-
tions, was the means of making an excellent new road to Aberdovey,
in the parish of Pennal, from the town of Machynlleth, along the
Dovey side; aod he also erected several lodging-houses at that
pleasant village. Several good houses have also been buijt by the
present proprietor, and, as an encouragement to families to reside
here, building leases are offered by him at a very cheap rate, so that
Aberdovey is rapidly rising into eminence, and bicjs fair, in a few
years, to^ rival the other celebrated bathing-places on the Welsh
coast. The beach of Aberdovey is excellent, being hard smooth

sand,

230 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

sand, and the distance to the machines but short. The ride along
the sands from Towyn to Aberdovey, being about four miles, is
delightful, particularly at low water.

The following short extracts from Iceland's Itinerary may be
properly introduced here :— " Mr. Rowland Griffith told me that
there were two commots between Aberdovey and Towyn, Merioneth,
that where, in times past, plentifull of corn and grass, but lying low,
almost as level ground, the sea, full many a year since, hath clean
devoured them up, and now it is totally a sandy warth (strand)." In
another place he says, " Where now the wild sea is at the mouth of
Dovey, and farther into the sea, where once two commots of good,
plentifull, but low ground, called Cantre'r Gwaelod (the Low Land
Hundred), now clean eaten away, ' inundated and destroyed.' There
is a poem, still extant, commemorating this fatal event, which is
represented to have occurred owing to the carelessness of the persons
who had the care of the embankments and flood-gates." Gwyddno
Goronhir is said to have been the prince or chieftain of this low land
canton : and lines, of which the following are a translation, are still
traditionally repeated among the inhabitants: —

Old Gwyddno's sighs and laments vain,
When sunk his land beneath the main.

levan Dyfy, a celebrated bard, who flourished about the year 1490,
was a native of Aberdovey. It appears that the family of Ynysy-
maengwyn were distinguished for their patronage of the bards in
ancient times. Each of the following bards, viz. Hugh Arwystli,
John Philip, Owain Gwynedd, and William Cynval, composed an
ode to Hu»h ap Evan, of that house, and his five sons, John,
Meredith, Richard, Humphrey, and David, of whose hospitality,
kindness, and generosity they speak most highly. These bards
flourished from 1560 to 1590: the poems are in many hands, but
not printed. According to some Welsh lines, written by the bards,
Richard and John Philip (two brothers), of Hendre-Fechan, in this
county, a Spanish vessel entered Aberdovey river in the year 1597,
with an intention, as it is supposed, of landing a few desperadoes, in
order to plunder the inhabitants. The bards express a wish that the
same fate may attend this ship as befel the Spanish Armada in 1588 ;
and this seems to have been the result, for the marauders were soon
after driven out to sea again, without being able to effect a landing.

Craig y Deryn (Craig Aderyn) is a most picturesque and lofty
rock, about 4 miles up the vale of Dysynni. It is so called, " The
Birds' Rock," from the numerous birds which nightly retire among
its crevices ; the noise they make at the close of day is most hideously
dissonant ; and as the scenery around is wild and romantic, the ideas
engendered by such a clamour in the gloom of evening, and in so
dismal and desolate a spot, are not the most soothing or agreeable.
Towards twilight some large aquatic fowls, from the neighbouring

marsh,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 231

marsh, may be seen majestically et winding their way" to this their
place of nocturnal rest.

Several parts of this county were governed by different chieftains,
who held their tenures in capile, either of the princes of Powys or
Gwynedd, and afterwards of the kings of England. Thus Gruffydd
ap Gwenwynwyn, Prince of Powys, bestowed the lordship of
Mawddwy on his.son William, better known among the Welsh by the
appellation of William Coch Mawddwy, or William the Red of
Mawddwy. Ednywain ap Bradwen, the head of one of the fifteen
tribes of North Wales, was Lord of part of Estum-Anner about the
time of Gruffydd ap Cynan, Prince of North Wales : Collwyn ap
Tangno was Lord of part if not the whole of Ardudwy : Rhirid
Vlaiold was Lord of Penllyn about, the middle of the thirteenth
century: and it appears from Welsh history that Meredydd and
Gruffydd, the sons of Cynan ap Owain Gwynedd, were called Lords
of Merionedd, and founded Cymmer Abbey ; but their right to this
distinction seems to have been disputed by the sons of Cadwgan ap
Bleddyn, Prince of Powys, as they destroyed Castell Cymmer
(otherwise Castell Meibion Uchtryd ap Edwin), which belonged to
former princes, about the year 1113. The celebrated Owain Glyn-
dwr was Lord of Glyndyfrdwy and Edeirnion, which he held under
Richard the Second, to whom he was greatly attached, and whose
unfortunate fate he deeply lamented. With a view, no doubt, to
resent that monarch's miserable end, and at the same time to avenge
his own wrongs, he took a decided part against the Lancastrian
interest, notwithstanding several of the principal men in North Wales,
and some of his own relations, were firm supporters of that party;
among whom may be mentioned in particular, Eineon ap Ithel, of
Rhiwedog, in this county, and Scutifer to John of Gaunt, Duke of
Lancaster; Evan ap Meredydd, of Gessail Gyfarch, in Eivionydd;
Meredydd ap Hwlkin Llwyd, Esq. of Glyn Llivon, in Caernarvon-
shire; and Hywel Sele, of Nannau, in Merionethshire. Hywel's
grandson was married to a daughter of Eineon ap Ithel, of Rhiwedog.
Hywel Sele was a relation of Owen Glyndwj", who was greatly
irritated because he sided with the Lancastrians; and in one of
Glyndwr's excursions, when his army was encamped near Dolgellau,
he paid his cousin Hywel Sele a visit, the particulars of which we
shall here give, in the words of an ancient and respectable writer,
Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, as they are preserved in an old MS. : —
fs Yet such as favoured the House of Lancaster, or had served John
of Gaunt, and Henry his son, the King of England, much disliked
Owen's government, and spoke so partial of him, that it was well
perceived that they wanted but an opportunity to be rather his
enemies than his friends and subjects. Among whom Howel Sele, of
Nanney, in Merionethshire, was one, a very remarkable and powerful
gentleman, lineally descended from Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, Prince of

Powys,

232 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Powys, and elder brother to Meredydd ap Bleddyn, Owen's ancestor;
and therefore may think no less than that himself had as good a right
to Po\vysland as any body else. And Owen suspecting no less, and
having certain intelligence that the king intended an expedition into
Wales very shortly, thought it policy to secure Howel Sele, lest
being at liberty he should join the king against him ; and therefore
came very betimes one morning, and took Howel Sele when he was
scarce out of bed, then he burnt his house and took him along with
him till he came to Cymer Abbey, where Owen Glyndwr intended to
dine with the abbot of that house; and after dinner, whilst the abbot
interceded for Howel Sele's liberty, Owen said s I hear, cousin, that
you are a good bowman,' and calling for a bow and quiver of arrows,
wished him to shoot at a mark, or, as some say, at a stag, which was
grazing hard by. He turned his hand and shot Owen in the breast ;
but having armour upon him, under his coat, his life was saved;
nevertheless he was sore bruised. Then Howel was bound with
ropes, and in the mean time his friends had raised all the country,
and were assembled to the hill-tops and elsewhere, to see what had
become of him. On the other side of the river which ran by the
monastery he had a brother-in-law, called Griffri ap Gwyn, of Gan-
llwyd, in Ardudwy, who had married a sister to Howel, by the
mother (or his daughter, as some say). This man brought with him,
of his sons, friends, and kinsmen, above a hundred tall men, to the
bridge of Llan-Elltyd, and brote down one or two bays thereof,
whereby Owen had no safe passage that way ; then he turned back
along the river side to a ford called Rhyd-Cadwallon. In the mean
time, the people that were on the hills came down and passed the
river, and joined themselves with Griffri ap Gwyn and his men, and
they guarded the ford stoutly, but at last Owen and his men, being
three to one, found other fords and won the passage; then both
parties fell to hardy blows, and fought till most part of the country-
people were slain ; but some escaped to the rocks and mountains, and
Owen's men followed them to the top of the mountain, and there
killed many, and their graves are to be seen to this day. There was
found slain on the place (which whereof is yet called Maesmawr),
besides many others, sixty cousin-germans or kindred of Griffri ap
Gwyn. After this, Owen took Howel Sele with him, but what
became of him is not certainly known." Rhys Cain, the bard, told
the above-said Mr. Robert Vaugh an, of Hengwrt, that the common
tradition was that Howel was killed, and his body let down into a
hollow oak ; and that some said it had been taken out again and
buried, but no one knew where. This event is differently related in
an interesting account of the celebrated Nannau Oak, in the 6th
number of the Cambro-JBriton, which we here introduce; —

" CEUBREN YR ELLYLL; OR, THE HOBGOBLIN'S HOLLOW TREE.

" In the park at Nannau, in Merionethshire, the seat of Sir Robert

Williames

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 233

Williames Vaughan, Baronet, there stood within these few last years
a hollow, large, and blasted oak, whose blanched and withered leaves
presented in spring a striking contrast to the verdure of the surround-
ing woods. It was a noted tree, and the peasant as he passed in the
gloom of the evening would quicken his pace, and, perhaps, murmur
a prayer for the preservation of his person from the crafts and assaults
of the evil one.

E'en to this day the peasant still,

With cautious fear, treads o'er the ground j

In each wild bush a spectre sees,

And trembles at each rising sound.

A long succession of ages had rolled on since the event transpired,
which conferred on this tree an influence so appalling. During the
wars of Glyndwr, in the former part of the fifteenth century, a cousin
of that hero resided at Nannau : his name was Howel Sele. It
appears that Howel had refused to espouse his kinsman's and his
country's cause, thereby rendering himself particularly obnoxious to
the choleric Glyndwr ; and an enmity was then engendered between
the two chieftains, which was fostered on both sides with savage and
revengeful malignity. During a cessation of arms, Owen, so intimates
tradition, sought amusement and exercise in the pleasure of the chase,
and he determined, like Percy of old, to <( force the red deer from the
forest brake" in the domains of bis unbending kinsman : thither he
repaired, therefore, with a bosom friend, named Madog, and a small
hunting train ; as was to be expected, he'.encountered Howel alone, but
armed, who demanded with what right he, a rebel to his king, thus
intruded upon his solitude ? Reply succeeded reply, till they resolved
to try the question by force of arms ; they consequently fought, and
Howel fell a victim to the superior prowess of his kinsman. Near the
place where they contended was a large oak, the trunk of which was
hollow ; into this cavity the body of the brave but headstrong Lord
of Nannau was cast, and Owen and his train hastened home to Glyn-
dyfrdwy. The disappearance of their lord caused the greatest alarm
and consternation at the castle : all possible search was made, but
without effect, and his sorrowing lady secluded herself from the
world in the solitude of her lonely and now gloomy residence. Year
succeeded year, and still no tidings were received of the absent Howel.
At length, one tempestuous evening in November, an armed horse-
man was descried urging his flagging steed up the hill which leads
to Nannau from the neighbouring town of Dolgellau ; he passed
quickly on his way, and, arriving at the castle, demanded an audience
of its sad and solitary mistress. It was Madog, who, his friend
Glyndwr being dead, had hastened to clear up the mystery in which
the disappearance of Howel Sele was involved. He told his tale,
and led the astonished and trembling domestics to the sepulchre,
which enclosed the bones of their lord : it was opened, and the-

skeleton

234 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

skeleton of Howel was discovered, grasping with his right hand the
sword he was accustomed usually to wear ; his remains were interred
in the neighbouring monastery of Cymmer, with all the pomp and
ceremony of Catholic superstition, and masses were performed for
the repose of his incensed and troubled spirit. The oak in which
Howel's body was deposited is the same which I have alluded to in
the opening of the sketch ; and it was standing about seven or eight
years ago. A violent storm, however, cast to the earth this venerable
" monarch of the forest," and the worthy baronet, in whose domains
it was situated, caused its wood to be manufactured into a variety of
utensils, and the same to be distributed among his friends. A short
time before it was blown down an eminent amateur artist made a sketch
of it. from which engravings have since been taken, and there is
scarcely a house in Dolgellau but what contains one, at least, of these
engravings, framed in the very wood, which is of a beautifully dark
colour, approaching to ebony, of the Ceubren yr Ellyll, At Nannau
there are several relics of this majestic tree ; among others, I must
not omit to mention, is a frame, containing an engraved full-length
portrait of the memorable Pitt,-— the frame is unadorned by the
gilder, but it presents an appearance, to use the phrase of a celebrated
Welsh writer, of magnificent simplicity. Under the portrait's the
following motto, particularly happy in its allusion to the " pilot who
weathered the storm :"<— -

Y Gwyr
Fal y dderwen
A wynebodd
Y dymestl.

From an account by Sir Richard Colt Hoare, inserted in a subsequent
number of the Cambro- Briton, it appears that the description given
by the above writer of the downfall of this celebrated oak is in-
correct.—" During a visit," says the worthy baronet, " to Sir Robert
Vaughan, in the summer of the year 1813, this aged tree, mentioned
by Mr. Pennant, attracted my notice : and, on the morning of the 13th
of July, I made a drawing of it, in one of the most sultry days T ever
felt ; the succeeding night was equally hot, and on the same night
this venerable oak fell to the ground."

As a proof of the ignorance of the inhabitants of this part of
Wales in the dark days of popery, and of the vindictive spirit which
is fostered instead of being checked by that religion, it may be
mentioned that the parson of the parish of Llanvrothen was murdered
at a place called Ogo'r Llechwin, by some wretches who were em-
ployed for that purpose, because he had fostered a child of the leader
of one party, in opposition to the wishes of another clan, who were at
enmity with them. When a murder of this kind was committed, the
perpetrators had only to fly to some sanctuary, or betake themselves
for protection to the principals of a clan at enmity with that which
they had offended.

This

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 235

This district had the honour of producing three celebrated bards :
viz. — Rhys G6ch o Eryri, who lived on his own property at Havod-
Garregog; Rhys Nanmor; and David Nanmor. The tfiree
flourished at the same time, from 1410 to 1460 ; and some of their
compositions are yet extant.

The parish of Trawsfynydd, the " cross mountain," hath its church
dedicated to Madryn, a female saint, who lived in the sixth century.
Mr. Pennant, after emerging from the thick woods and deep dingles
near the waterfalls of Pistill Cain and Rhaidr Mawddach, observes —
" After quitting these romantic depths, I reached a long extent of
woodless tract, the vast parish of Trawsfynydd, walled in on all sides
by lofty rugged mountains of various forms." This view impresses
the traveller with an idea of dreariness, barrenness, solitude, and
discomfort. On a flat stone at a farm-house, called Llech-Idris, the
property of Sir W. W. Wynn, Bart, is the following inscription in
Roman letters : — *' Porus hie in tumulo jacet Homo Pianus fuit :"
the place is called Bedd Porus, or Porus's grave. In a field, not far
from it, is a great upright stone, called Llech-Idris, or Idris's pillar,
which is supposed to be one of those denominated Meini Gwyr, that
generally mark a warrior's grave. Part of the Roman road, called
Sarn Helen, is here visible : it is regularly paved, and is eight yards
wide ; and there are tumuli near it, at various distances : in one of
these were found five urns, and several fragments of bricks had been
placed round them, to prevent them being crushed. Castell Prysor
(" the castle in the cold Brush -wood," prysg oer), is a small fort,
placed in a pass between the hills, nearly on the road from Traws-
i'ynydd to Caergai and Bala : it is supposed to be Roman, notwith-
standing it is built with stones without any mortar ; for several coins
and urns have been discovered near it : between it and Ffestiniog is a
small lake, called Llwyn-Rathlyn, noted for its peculiarly-formed
perch, the lower part of the back-bone, near the tail, being strangely
distorted. Henry Wynn, sixth son of Sir John Wynn, of Gwydir,
married Catherine, daughter and heiress of Ellis Lloyd, Esq. of
Rhiwgoch, in this parish ; and his son John, afterwards Sir John
Wynn, Bart, married Jane, daughter of Eyton Evans and heiress of
Wynnstay, and thus eventually became the founder of that family.
Humphrey Lloyd was born at Bodufuddion, in this parish, about the
year 1600, and was made Prebendary of York by Archbishop
Williams. He was interred at Bangor, in Bishop Rowlands's grave,
January 18th, 1688, aged 78.

To the parish church of Llanfachreth Sir Robert Williames
Vaughan, Bart, built an addition, in the year (1820) when our
late beloved sovereign King George the Third died, and erected
two tablets to his memory within the same building. Rice Jones, a
noted Welsh bard, was a native of this parish, he published a book
.called Gorchestion y Beirdd, and died at Blaenau, in 1801. Owain

Gwynedd,

236 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Gwynedd, son of Sir Evan, of Garno, was a celebrated bard in his
time : he composed an eulogistic ode addressed to John Owen, Esq.
son of Lewis Owen, Esq. Vice-Chamberlain, and Baron of the
Exchequer of North Wales, who lived at Llwyn, near Dolgellau.
Owain Gwynedd was curate of Dolgellau about the year 1560. Sir
Owain ap Gwilym, curate of Tal y Llyn, in this county, wrote an
elegy on the tragical death of the said Baron Owen. William Lleyn,
curate of Oswestry, another celebrated bard, composed an ode in
praise of Gruffydd Nannau, Esq. the first who assumed that name,
which continued to distinguish the family till the death of Colonel
Nanney, of Nannau.

Llangelynin parish is frequently called Celynin. — The parish
church is near the sea-shore, and very inconveniently situate for the
attendance of the inhabitants, there being but one or two cottages
near it ; and Llwyngwril, the principal village, is at the distance of
nearly two miles to the north. The ruins of Caer Bradwen and Llys
Bradwen before noticed are in the township of Is-Cregenau, which is
in this parish. Llywelyn ap Tewdwr ap Gwyn ap Peredur ap
Ednowain ap Bradwen lived in the time of Edward the First, and did
him homage with the lords and gentry of Wales. Aron, the grand-
child of Llywelyn ap Tewdwr, by his son Ednyved, had two sons
more eminent than the rest of his children, viz. Ednyved and
Gruffydd : of this last descended William David Lloyd, of Peniarth,
Esq. Ednyved ap Aron is reported to have entertained Owain
Glyndwr when he was in distress, and when his affairs were in a
declining state ; and tradition states that Owain concealed himself in
a cave by the sea-side in this parish, and which is still known by the
name of Ogof Owain, " Owen's Cave:" from Ednyved descended
Morgan ap Gruffydd ap Eineon, a stout courageous man, who,
according to the account given by some of his descendants, met King
Henry the Eighth, by chance, late at night in the streets of London,
his Majesty being in disguise, and wishing to see whether order was
kept in the city ; as neither of them would give way, they drew their
swords and fought obstinately for some time, until Morgan's com-
panion, perceiving some of the king's guards approaching, ordered
him to desist, and informed him that he expected his antagonist to be
the monarch ; upon this Morgan begged for mercy, and the King
allowed him to depart, merely observing that he was a lusty fellow :
ever after, it is added, he was called " lusty Morgan." Ednowain
ap Bradwen bore for his arms, — Gules, three snakes entwined in a
triangular knot Argent. He was Lord of the Hundred of Talybont,
excepting the Township of Nannau, in Llanfachreth, and the Prince's
Demesnes ; he was also Lord of the greater part of the Hundred of
Estumanner. — One Mary Thomas, of TyddynBach, in this parish, is
mentioned by Mr. Pennant as having fasted a very great length of
time. Another singular character, a native of this parish, is mentioned

by

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 237

by Mr. Pennant, viz. Arise Evans, a pretended conjuror and astrologer:
he is noticed with admiration and respect by his great pupil, William
Lilly, and his person minutely described.

Half a mile above Caer-Onn is a level place on the top of a hill
called Gwastad Merioneth, and near it a small field called Pumtheg,
either from the number of fifteen large stones or pillars, and druidical
altars, or because fifteen different lakes may be seen from thence, as it
commands a very extensive and beautiful prospect. At Llanfendigaid,
" The Church of the Blessed," in this parish, there was, some years
ago, a small chapel, the only remaining part of an old church ; a
beautifully-carved screen was removed about fifty years ago to a house
called Maes-y-Pandy, in the parish of Tal-y-Llyn, and part of it made
use of as a bed-tester. — Just below Llangelynin church, running out
into the sea, are the remains of an old wall or embankment called
Sarn-y-Bwch, which is supposed to have had a communication with
Sarn Badrig. Others are of opinion that Sarn-y-Bwch extended
from the mouth of the river Dysynni to Saint David's Head, and Sarn
Badrig from the Antro to Bardsey ; these two, together with Sarn
Gynfelyn, near Aberystwith, are generally supposed to have been
some of the embankments of Cantref-y-Gwaelod, or the Lowland
Hundred. A remarkable battle was fought at a place called Castell,
near Rhos Lefain, now a farm-house; and at Bron-y-Clydwr, in this
parish, was formerly a dissenting chapel, with a cemetery near it. At
Tal-y-Bont, on the banks of the Dysynni, is a large tumulus called
Tommen Eithin ; and another on the opposite side of the river, in the
parish of Towyn. They were, probably, the foundations of two
timber castelets erected here to protect the ford across the river.
Near the sea-coast was an old mill called Felin Freuan, so called from
a quern or small hand-mill formerly used in Wales. Near the Ogof
Owain, or Ogof Llanfendigaid, was discovered, many years ago, a
stone with an inscription, by the assistance of which was discovered
Ffynon Gadvan, or St. Cadvan's Well, near Towyn, Merioneth. The
ancient family of Llanfendigaid, who were a branch of the Nanneys,
were celebrated by the Bards in the time of Henry the Eighth and
Queen Elizabeth, for their munificence and hospitality : by Hugh ap
John ap Hywel in particular, to whom the bard, William Lleyn,
curate of Oswestry, addressed an encomiastic ode, and! afterwards
wrote an elegy on his death, which happened in 1574. — Near Pwli
Orthog, in this parish, is a small neat new chapel which is served by
the curate of Llangelynin.

Pennal, i.e. Penael, " the Summit of the Brow," hath its church
dedicated to Saint Peter. The old church , which was partly built with
the ruins of the Roman fortress of Cefn Caer, was taken down about
the year 1769, and a new church erected with the materials; but
being wholly covered with stucco, the Roman bricks are concealed
from visw. Mr. Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, in his sketch of the

history

238 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

history of this county, affirms, that he saw a silver coin of Domitian,
that was dug up at Cefn Caer. It is probable that a Roman road,
leading from Conovium (Caer Rhun, near Conway) to Lucarum,
near Swansea, in Glamorganshire, passed by Dolgellau, and to the
west of Cader-Idris to Pennal ; from thence to Llanbadarn-Fawr,
near Aberystwyth, where Roman remains have been discovered, and
through the parish of Llanfihangel y Creuddin, where there are
evident traces of a Roman road ; thence to Llanio (Lovantium), six
miles east of Lampeter, where several Roman inscriptions were
discovered; thence over the hill to Talley, Llandilo-Vawr, and
Slwchwr (Leucarrum). Near the river side is a tumulus, or an
artificial hillock, called Tommen-Las, on the summit of which, no
doubt, there was a timber fort or castle to guard the ford. At a
place called Y-Maes-y-Mhenal, otherwise Wttra Bennal, a battle was
fought between Thomas ap Gruffydd ap Nicholas, of Dynevor, for
the House of Lancaster, and Henry ap Gwilym, of Court Henry, one
of the Earl of Pembroke's captains, for the House of York, in which
Thomas Gruffydd gained the field. Here also the same Thomas ap
Gruffydd ap Nicholas fought a most bloody combat or duel with
David Gough, a near kinsman of Matthew Gough, a famous warrior
in the times of Henry the Fifth and Henry the Sixth, wherein the
celebrated David Gough fell by the sword of Thomas ap Gruffydd
ap Nicholas. The celebrated bard, Llewelyn Goch ap Meurig Hen,
of Nannau, who flourished about the year 1400, composed a beautiful
pathetic elegy on the death of Lleucu Lhvyd (Lucy Lloyd), a
celebrated beauty of this parish.

Upon the south bank of the river Lliw, in the parish of Llanuwch-
llyn, in the hundred of Penllyn, on a high craggy rock, are the
decayed towers, wall, and ruins of a castle, called Castell Carn
Dochen, the mortar of which is mixed with cockleshells, brought by
land-carriage fourteen miles: and nearly opposite to it is another
ancient fortress, called Caer-Gai, built in the time of the Romans, as
it is generally supposed, from a number of Roman coins having been
discovered here : one or two were found not many years ago of the
Emperor Domitian: here also was dug up a Roman monumental
stone. This place was called Cai-hir ap Gynyr, so named from King
Arthur's foster-brother, who is said to have resided here. Camden
says it was built by one Caius a Roman ; but this appears to be mere
conjecture. It is evident that Spenser, who was deeply read in all
the romance of his days, had heard the tradition of Caer-gai, and its
old inhabitant Cai-hir, " Cai, the tall," the foster-brother of King
Arthur, and his companion in romance, to whom he chuses to give the
more classical name of Timon, for so Prince Arthur is made to name
his foster-father (foster-brother according to the Welsh M.S.) : —

Unto old Timon, he me brought by live
Old Timon, who in youthful years had been,

In

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 239

In warlike feats the expertest man alive,

And is the wisest now on earth I ween :

His dwelling is low, in valley green,

Under the foot of Rauran* mossie hore,

From whence the river Dee, as silver clean,

His tumbling billows rolls, with gentle rore ;

There all his days he trained me up in virtuous lore.

Fairy Queen, Book I. Canto IX.

In Llanuwchllyn church is the figure of an armed man, with a
conical helmet, and mail muflfer round his chin and neck ; on his
breast is a wolf's head, on the lower part of his body another, and in
the intervening space three roses : the first are the arms of Ririd
Flaidd, the others of Cunedda Wledig, a Cambrian prince, whose
sons, after their father had been defeated by the Saxons in the sixth
century, retired and possessed themselves of these parts of Wales.
Meirion, one of his grandsons, is said to have given the name of
Merioneth to this county. On the 20th of June, 1781, a great quan-
tity of rain fell in this parish, and a large tract of land in Cwm
Clynlwyd, and in Cwm Twrch, was destroyed by the bursting of a
thunder cloud, which caused the river to overflow its banks in so
dreadful a manner as to sweep away every impediment ; cattle and
sheep were drowned, and meadows and corn fields covered with
gravel and slime ; five bridges were swept away, and several houses
at Pandy village were completely destroyed.

Llanaelhaiarn. — In Ecton's Browne Willis's Thesaurus Rerum
Ecclesiasticarum, a rectory of this name is mentioned as being in the
deanry of Penllyn and Edeirnion, and dedicated to Saint Elhaiarne,
who lived in the middle of the seventh century; and in an old M. S.
the following memorandum is made respecting it : — " This Rect.
Aelhayarn. There was formerly a chapel, called Capel Aelhayarn ;
the place still known by that name is in the parish of Gwyddelwern."

Gwyddelwern, " The Alder Grove," hath its church dedicated to
Saint Beuno. Near it is a place called Saith Marchog, from the
circumstance of Owain Glyndwr having there surprized Reginald de
Grey, and seven knights in his train. A family took a name similar
to this, Saeth-Marchog, or the shot or arrow of a knight, and bore for
arms a lion rampant argent in a field azure, upon a canton argent an
arrow's head gules. Lowry, the heiress of this family, married
Thomas Myddelton, of Garthgynan. In this neighbourhood is Caer
Drewyn, a fortified encampment, being one of a chain of posts begin-
ning near Diserth, and continuing along the Clwydian hills to the
mountains of lal.

Llan-Danwg hath its church dedicated to Tanwg, a saint, who was
one of those who accompanied Cadfan from Armorica in the beginning
of the sixth century. In this parish was discovered, in the last
century, a very curious piece of antiquity, viz. a golden torques, or
wreathed rod or chain of gold: the use of it, according to Mr. Pen-

L 1 nant,

* Yr Aran.

240 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

nant, was that of a baldric, to suspend gracefully the quiver of men
of rank, which hung behind by means of a hook, and the golden
wreath crossed the breast and passed over the shoulder. The British
chiefs, and warriors generally, wore also a chain of gold about the
neck and another round the arm ; and the celebrated British heroine
Boadicea wore a large torques of this description. At no great
distance from Harlech are several Meini-Hirion, or columnar stones,
which were intended probably to mark the spot where some celebrated
hero or heroes fell in battle. In this neighbourhood also are several
Cyttiawr Gwyddelod, or the foundations and ruins of the rude dwell-
ings or habitations of wood-rangers, erected for the purposes of
hunting. The church is most inconveniently situate upon a small
isthmus, or point of land, at the mouth of the river Artro, " the
crooked or winding stream."

Llan-Aber, " the church at the mouth of the river." — At Hendref
Fechan, in this parish, lived four celebrated bards of the name of
Philip, viz. William, Richard, John, and Thomas ; they flourished in
the reigns of Queen Elizabeth, James I. and Charles I.

Llanbedr is situate on the river Artro. The mouth of this river
is by some writers represented as the place where Gwyddno Goron-
hir's weir was situate, and where the far-famed British bard Taliesin
was discovered by Elphin, son of that prince, in a leather bag
attached to one of the poles of the weir. The prince took compassion
on the infant, and had him properly educated, and introduced him
into his father's court. Mr. Pennant, in one of his excursions, visited
a venerable old gentleman of the name of Evan Llwyd, whose resi-
dence was near the beautiful lake of Llyn Cwm Bychan, and whose
ancestors have been in possession of that property since the year
1100. One of these, Davydd Llwyd, a celebrated warrior, was
present at the battle of Bosworth, in 1485, with King Henry the
Seventh, A Welsh tune, called Ymadawaid Dai Llwyd, or " David
Llwyd's Farewell," was composed at the time of his departure. —
Drws Ardudwy, a fortified pass between the mountains, is in this
neighbourhood : it was probably occupied by the sons of Cadwgan in
their contests with Uchtryd ap Edwyn, whom they at last expelled
from the country.

Llanddwywen, or Llanddwywau, alias Llan-Dewi Is y Graig
(" Saint David's below the Rock").— The church is dedicated,
according to Ecton, to Holy Cross, but, as asserted by Dr. W. O.
Pughe in his Cambrian Biography, to a British saint of the name of
Dwywan, son of Hywel ap Emyr Llydaw, and brother of Dervel
Gadarn, or " Dervel the Mighty," who flourished about the sixth
century. In this parish are three small lakes, viz. Llyn Irddin, Llyn
Dulynn, and Llyn Bodlynn; the latter is well stocked with char,
called by the natives of the country Tor-Goch (" Red-bellies").
Llynn-Cwm-Howel is another lake in this neighbourhood, noted for
a species of trout, " which I-have seen," says Mr. Pennant, " with

most

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 241

most deformed heads, thick, flatted, and toad-shaped ;" and which
probably might give rise to the fabled accounts of the monstrous
species recorded by Giraldus. Near Llyn Irddin are several druid-
ical antiquities : the first is a circle about 56 feet in diameter, formed
of piles of loose stones, with upright columns placed at five yards
distance from each other, in pairs, so as nearly to divide the circle
into four parts : about thirty yards from this is a smaller one, with
several upright stones, but placed with less regularity. Haifa mile
south of these, on the side of a hill, are two carnedds (or large heaps
of stones) of a most stupendous size; also a cromlech, or druidical
altar or tombstone, a maen-hir or columnar stone, and a cistvaen or
stone coffin. The largest carnedd is 50 feet long, and 12 high in the
middle ; the columns are from ten to twelve feet high. North-west of
these antiquities, on the top of a hill, is a strong post called Castell
Dinas Cortin, entrenched around, with an advanced work on one
side. This, and another small fort called Castell Craig y Dinas
(" the Town-Rock Castle,") seem to have been formed as defences to
the above-mentioned antiquities, as well as to two other great car-
nedds placed on small eminences near to each other, within one of
which are the remains of a cistvaen. The druidical circles and
cromlechs might have been here long prior to the carneddi and the
forts ; and this place was probably the scene of a bloody battle, the
carneddi being formed over the bodies of the slain, the most distin-
guished of whom were probably interred in these stone coffins. At
no great distance is another eminence called Bryn Corny n lou, which
is, as translated by Mr. Pennant, " the Hill of the Horns of Jove ;"
but he supposes the hill to have been originally called Bryn Cerrwn-
nos, in honour of a deity venerated by the Gauls and Britons, who

E resided over the amusements of the chase. This appears to be a
ir-fetched and very improbable conjecture. It may be nothing more
than Bryn y Cerniau, or Bryn y Gyrniau, <f the Eminence amongst
the Conical Rocks ;" Bryn y Carniau, " the Eminence amongst the
Stone Heaps." A earn, as well as carnedd, means (e a large heap of
stones." Near a tenement called Bryn y Voel there is a cromlech,
16 feet 4 inches long, 7 feet 4 inches broad, and 20 inches thick. —
At no great distance from this village is a house called Maes y
Garnedd, the birth-place of the regicide Colonel Jones, whose
insolence to the neighbouring gentry in the time of Oliver Cromwell
was, till within these few years, spoken of with great abhorrence. —
The road from Trawsfynydd to this part of the county, called
Ardudwy, is through a narrow defile or rocky pass, where the tra-
veller has to ascend at times a hazardous flight of numerous stone
steps, and at others to descend along the slippery rock, while his path
is overhung by huge, lofty, impending precipices. The horrors of
this desolate scene cannot easily be described. The narrowest part
of the pass is called Drws Ardudwy, " the Door-way to Ardudwy." —

In
L 1 2

242 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

In this parish is Cors-y-Gedol, the ancient family seat of the
Vaughans, and now the property of the Mostyn family. Mr. Pen-
nant, when on his tour through this part of North Wales, spent some
days here with William Vaughan, Esq. where (as he observes) he
was entertained in the style of an ancient baron. There is a long
avenue of trees leading from the highroad to the house. The woods
are extensive, but affected in a very singular manner by the westerly
winds : the tops are shorn quite even, and the boughs so interwoven
as to resemble a close and almost impenetrable curtain. There were
but few inns in North Wales fit for the reception of a gentleman at
the commencement of the last century ; and the usual method, when
a person of some respectability travelled, was to obtain letters of
introduction to the resident gentlemen of that part of the country
which he intended visiting. Indeed, at that time there was so little
travelling, that it was considered quite a pleasant occurrence when a
stranger thus recommended visited a country gentleman. At this
mansion, and many others in Wales, it was the usual practice to place
a large piece of cold beef on the table in the great hall every day,
together with a tankard of strong ale, and every stranger was welcome
to partake of this good cheer. On the north-west side of the parish
church is a chapel appropriated for the burial place of this family ;
underneath are the vaults ; and along the walls are several monuments,
on one of which is inscribed the pedigree of the Vaughans, who were
descended from Osborn Fitzgerald (a branch of the Desmond Fitz-
geralds), called by the Welsh Osbwrn Wyddel, or (t Osbwrn the
Irishman." He came into Wales in the time of Lly welyn the Great,
and was much favoured by that prince. — This chapel is separated
from the body of the church by some open trellis or lattice- work.

Llanfih angel y Pennant (Saint Michael's at the head of the dingle)
is situate in a narrow dingle, at the foot of Cader Idris, on the banks
of a small rivulet called Llaethnant otherwise Cegidva. On the top
of a high rock there formerly stood a castle, known by the names of
Y Beri, Castell Teberri, or Castell y Beri, built either by Gruffydd
ap Cynan, Prince of North Wales, or by Hugh Lupus, Earl of
Chester, when Gruffydd had been treacherously betrayed into his
hands by Meirion Goch. The etymology given of the name by the
Rev. Mr. Evans, author of specimens of Welsh poetry, is Castell yr
Aberau, the castle at the conflux: another probable derivation is
Castell y Beri, the castle or nest of kites : as it is a steep rock, to
which numbers of birds of prey retire at night, and also make their
nests in the summer season. A third derivation is Castell y Bera,
" The Pyramid Castle," from the form of the rock. Thomas of
Walsingham says, that after the death of the last prince Lly welyn,
William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, took the same from the said
prince's garrison.

Tal y Llyn (the head of the Lake) hath its church dedicated to
Saint Mary. The village is situate in a narrow vale on the south of

Cader

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 243

Cader Idris, and at the west end of a lake nearly a mile in length,
called Llyn Meingul, or " The Narrow Lake," which abounds with
fine trout. Here is a fine large spring, called Ffynnon Cwm Rhwyfor,
which is considered to be efficacious in the cure of rheumatic and
other disorders. Dysynni river is a spring near a place called Craig y
Cae, not far from the summit of Cader Idris. It appears from an old
inquisition, that the lands between the rivers Dyfi and Dulas were in
times past considered as part of the commot of Estumanner, in which
this parish is situate ; as Eineon ap Seisyllt, who held them in capite
of his brother, Prince Llywelyn Vawr ap Seisyllt, upon some disagree-
ment between himself and Eineon, fled to the Prince of Powys, and
placed himself under his protection, and thus this district became
alienated from Gwynedd to Powys.— Sir Owain ap Gwilym, a cele-
brated bard, was curate of this parish about the year 1570. William
Lleyn composed an elegy on his death, which is still extant. Owain
Gwynedd, curate of Dolgellau, another bard, wrote an elegy on the
death of the same gentleman, and Hugh Arwystle, another bard,
composed an elegy on a similar subject. At a place called Llwyn D61
Ithel, in the year 1684, was found, about three yards deep, a coffin
made of deal, seven feet long, carved and gilt at both ends. Two
skeletons, supposed to be of different sexes, were found in it, placed
with the head of one parallel to the feet of the other; the bones were
moist and tough, of an uncommon size, the thigh bones being twenty-
seven inches long. A few miles from Tal y Llyn church' the vale
contracts, and the hills are a shorter distance from each* other ; the
sides of the mountains are broken into a thousand crags, some conical
and sharp-pointed, 'but the greater part overhanging the base so as to
have the appearance' of being ready to overwhelm the passenger.
One of these precipices is called Pen y Delyn, " the Harp Rock,"
from a resemblance to that instrument. Another is called Llarri y
Lladron, or " the Thieves' Leap," from a tradition that thieves Were
wont to be brought there and thrown down. It is not improbable
that such a punishment might have been inflicted in the barbarous
days of heathenism. The late Counsellor Fenton, author of the
History of Pembrokeshire, resided for some time at Aberlliweni, in
this parish.

Llari-Gower, or Llangywair, hath its church dedicated to Saint
Gwawr, mother of Llywarch Hen. The village is situated on the
south side of Pimblemere, or Bala lakd. Near this place is a stone
called Llech Gower, which is marked with the sign of the cross ; and
also a well called Ffynnon Gower. Upon the east bank of the river
Dee, near the lake, are two small mounts, one of which bears the
name of Castell Gronow Befr o Benllyn, " the Castle of Gronow the
Fair of Penllyn." He is said to have lived in the time of Maelgwn
Gwynedd, about the beginning of the sixth century. — Edward Lloyd,
M. A; was incumbent of this parish in 1683 ; he published a Welsh
book called Meddyginiaeth, &c. Llanyccil,

244 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Llanyccil, or Llanycil, " the Church in the Recess," hath its
church dedicated to Saint Beuno. Glan y Llyn, in this parish, for-
merly belonged to the Vaughans, but is now the property of Sir W.
W. Wynn, Bart, who resides here a few days in the grousing and
fishing season. The two Arennigs (Mawr and Bach, fs large and
small,") are in this parish, and an old castle called Castell Carn
Dochen, before mentioned^ — The Roman road from Eryri Mons,
Tommen y Mur, and Castell Prysor, to Mediolanum, must have
passed by Caer Gai and this castle, and very likely by Bala and
Ffordd Helen or Milltirgerrig, to Llanfyllin.

Llandrillo hath its church dedicated to Saint Trillo, one of the
sons of Ithel Hael, who accompanied Cadfan into Wales in the
beginning of the sixth century : there is a strong spring near the
village, called Ffynnon Drillo. Llandrillo is situated in the match-
less vale of Edeirnion (as Mr. Pennant terms it), near the torrent
Ceidio, and on the banks of the river Dee, at the mouth of a great
glen, with the lofty and extensive Berwyn range of mountains im-
mediately to the south. The hundred of Edeirnion, in which this
parish is situated, is so called, as supposed, from Edeyrn, one of the
sons of Cunedda Wledig, who lived in the fourth century, when that
prince, with his children, was expelled from his original patrimony in
Cumberland and the neighbouring districts.

Llangar " the church near the fortress" hath its church dedicated
to All Saints. In a field called Caer Bont is a circular entrenchment,
consisting of a fosse and rampart, with two entrances, meant,
perhaps, as a guard to this pass. On the summit of a hill, called
Y Foel, is a circle of stones, ten yards in diameter, within which was
a circular cell, about six feet in diameter ; and at the distance of
about one hundred yards, facing the circle of stones, are the remains
of a great carnedd, surrounded with large stones. At the end of a
dingle, about half a mile from the church, is Rhaiader Cynwyd, or
the fall of Cynwyd : the water of the river Trystion bursts from the
sides of the hill through deep and narrow chasms, from rock to rock,
which are overgrown with trees : in this sequestered spot is situated a
little mill, which greatly adds to the picturesque beauty of the scene.

Llansaintfraid hath its church dedicated to Saint Fraid, called by
the English Saint Bride, who lived about the middle of the seventh
century. The village is pleasantly situated near the river Dee, on the
north bank of that river : it contains a small room, called the prison-
house of Ovvain Glyndwr, where it is said Owain confined his
captives. Rhagarth, where Owain Glyndwr is supposed to have
had a palace, is in this parish, and has been for many years the seat
of the ancient family of Lloyd.

Rhtig is the name of a lordship, township, chapel, and gentleman's
seat : it is situated about a mile west of Cor wen. Colonel William
Salisbury, Governor of Denbigh Castle in the civil wars of the

sixteenth

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 245

sixteenth century, founded and endowed the present chapel at Rhug.
Here Gruffydd ap Cynan, King of Wales, was betrayed into the
hands of his enemies, Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester, and Hugh
Belesme, Earl of Shrewsbury, by the treason and treachery of one of
his subjects, Meirion Goch (Meirion the red). He was conveyed to
Chester castle, where he endured twelve years imprisonment, but was
at length released by the bravery of a young man of this vicinity of
the name of Cynrig Hir, who went to Chester under pretence of
purchasing necessaries, and then took an opportunity, while the
keepers were feasting, to carry away his prince, loaded with irons, on
his back, to a place of safety. In aftertimes this house and demesne
became the property of Owain Brogyntyn, natural son of Madog ap
Meredydd, a Prince of Powys. Such was the merit of Brogyntyn,
that he shared his father's inheritance equally with his legitimate
brethren. By the marriage of Margaret Wenn, daughter and heiress
of levan ap Hywel, a descendant of Brogyntyn, with Pyers Salus-
bury, of Bachymbyd, were derived the Salusburies, of Rug, a name
existing in the male line till the last century. On the attainder of
Owain Glyndwr, Henry IV. sold this lordship to Robert Salisbury,
of Rug. In the garden at Rug is a mount or tumulus, on the
summit of which, in ancient times, was a castelet, most probably of
timber, as many were so formed before the invention of gunpowder.

Llanymawddwy, <( the church of Mawddwy, or overflowing water."
— The church here is dedicated to Saint Tydecho^ who lived at the
close of the fifth and beginning of the sixth century. The village is
situated two miles north of Dinas Mawddwy, near the source of the
river Dovey, in the long and narrow vale of Mawddwy : this glen or
ravine is so contracted as scarcely to admit a meadow at the bottom of
it ; its boundaries are vast hills, very verdant and fine sheep walks.
In one place the mountains open and exhibit the rugged and wild
summit of Aran Mawddwy, which majestically soars above. The
inclosures are divided by excellent quickset hedges, and run far up
the sides of the hills, in places so steep that a person unaccustomed to
mountain land would hardly be able to stand erect on them. Num-
bers of little groves are interspersed, and the hills above them are
covered with fine turf to the summit, where the bog and heath
commence, which afford shelter to multitudes of red and a few black
grouse : but the importance of this turf to those parts is infinitely
greater, as it is the fuel used by all the inhabitants. The turbaries
are placed very remotely from their dwellings, and the turf or peat is
procured with great difficulty. The roads from the brows of the
mountains, in general, are too steep for a horse : the men, therefore,
carry up on their backs a light sledge, fill it with a very considerable
load, and drag it, by means of a rope placed over their breast, to the
brink of the slope ; then go before and draw it down gently, still
preceding arid guiding its motions, which at times have been so violent

as

246 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

as to overturn and draw along with it the person who guided it, at the
hazard of his life, and not without considerable bodily injury. When
the turbaries lie at a great distance from the brow of the hill, the
natives are obliged to bring a horse by a circuitous path to
them to assist in dragging the turf to the brink of the slope. The
source of the river Dovey is at the foot of a rude rock, called Craig
Llyn Dyfi, under Aran Mawddwy.

We cannot conclude without observing that the county of Merioneth
has for several centuries been celebrated for the beauty of its women.
A very popular song has been composed by a Welsh bard on this sub-
ject, each stanza of which ends with ({ Morwynion Glan Merionydd,"
i. e. the beautiful Mervinian maids —

" Where greater beauty can you find ?
Each villager has charms :

In thce Mervinia dwell the fair,
Who rule all hearts, or cause despair.

And yet how far the maids excel
Who in Mervinia's rallies dwell!

" But what Bala is famous for," says Lord Lyttelton, when he wrote
to Archibald Bowyer, ' ' is the beauty of its women, and indeed I saw
there one of the prettiest girls I ever beheld : but such is my virtue,
that I have kissed none since I came into Wales, except an old maiden
lady, a sister of Mr. Brynker, at whose house I now lodge, and who
is the ugliest woman of her quality in Great Britain ; but I know a
duchess or two I should be still more afraid of kissing than her."

Names of learned men, bards, &c. natives of the county of

Merioneth : — Rev. Edmund Prys, A. M. Archdeacon of Merioneth,

1626; Robert Vaughan, of Hengwrt, antiquary, 1660; Rowland

Vaughan, Esq. of Caer Gai, 1680; Rh£s Goch o Eryri (Havod

Garregog), bard, 1420; Rhys Nanmor, of Nanmor, bard, flourished

1460; Davydd Nanmor, bard, flourished 1460; John Philip,

Dyffryn Ardudwy, bard, flourished 1580; Richard Philip, Dyffryn

Ardudwy, bard, flourished 1635; William Philip, bard, flourished

1650; Griffith Philip, Dyffryn Ardudwy, bard, 1680; Hugh

Llwyd, Cynvel, Ffestiniog, bard, flourished 1590; levan Dyfi, Aber

Dovey, bard, flourished 1490; levan ap Tewdwr, Penllyn, flourished

1480 \ Sir Lewis Mawddwy; Sion Mawddwy, 1580; Llywelyn Goch

ap Meurig Hen, Nannau, bard, 1400; Sir Owain ap Gwilym, curate

of Tal y Llyn, bard, 1560; Sir Rhys o'r Derwen, Corwen, bard,

1460 ; Robin Dyfi, Glan Dyfi, bard ; Tewdwr Penllyn, bard,

flourished 1460: William Dyfi, bard, flourished 1480; Ellis Wynn,

Las Ynys, author of" Bardd Cwsg," 1700; Edward Urien, Dyffryn

Ardudwy, bard, 1714; Henry Salusbury of Rug, Esq. ; Rice Jones,

of Blaenau, author of " Gorchestion y Beirdd," 1777; David

Richards, of Morva Bychan; Ty wyn, author of (< Cy wydd y Drindod,"

1809;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 247

1809; Ellis Lewis, Llwyngwern, translator of " Ystyriaethan ar
Dragywyddoldeb, 1700; Rev. John Williams, rector of Llanfrothen,
translator of " Blaenor i Gristion," &c. 1703; Rev. Mr. Morgan,
rector of Llanaber, 1750 ; Rev. Roger Edwards, curate of Llanaber,
1760; Rowland Huw, of Graienyn, near Bala, a poet, who died in
the year 1803, aged about 88, he presided at the Bala Eisteddfod,
in 1799.

ANGLESEA.

UMEROUS are the given etymologies of this island, and as much
has been said respecting its primitive inhabitants, but nothing supe-
rior to the abstruse origin of every other country, therefore at this re-
mote period they must for ever remain dubious, or rest on a hypothesis
founded by the inventive mind of man, which, after labouring to
dispel the cloud that involves us in darkness, must ultimately desist,
and leave it too great for human elucidation. The ancient inhabit-
tants are said to have denominated this island Y F6n Ynys, or " the
Furthermost Island ;" Y Fon Wlad, " the Lowermost Country ;"
and Tir M6n signifies the same as the Latin words Fin, or finis,
whence is derived the ancient name Mona, and its present Mon : some-
times written Ynys Dowyll, or " the Shady Island," alluding perhaps
to the groves and other solemn places among the druids. The Saxons
called it Moneg, until it was conquered by Edward the First, when
we find the name of Englesea, or " the English Island," now gene-
rally written Anglesea, eqnally known to the Welsh by the appellation
of Mon Mam Gymry, i. e. (( Mon, the Nursery of Wales ;" being an
ancient and common proverb, because in times of scarcity this fruitful
island supplied the principality with corn and other necessaries. It
will be next asked why the Druids chose this island for their estab-
lishment : in answer it may be said, its lonesome and retired situation
rendered it the fittest place, because less liable to be incommoded
with the affrights and tumults of war, therefore favourable to the
infant muses, and to afford every requisite lineament and growth to
druidical knowledge. It was also a pleasant island, of a temperate
soil, in the flower and vigour of nature, finely diversified with hills
and vallies, plentifully purled with springs, numerous rivulets, and a
wholesome air, so congenial to the wished longevity of man ; and,
above all, as the nature of the soil inclines us to believe, they found
it enriched with the numerous bounties of sea and land, particularly
spacious groves of the admired and beloved oak, which they held in

the

248 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

the greatest estimation. The Pen Awyr, or " Misletoe," was also
held in great veneration, in which they placed a very high mystery,
and cut it down in great solemnity with a golden consecrated instru-
ment, and carefully received it on a white garment, and preserved it
with the highest veneration and worship. In these groves they had
their erections and apartments, i. e. their mounts or hillocks, called in
Welsh Gorseddau, wherefrom they pronounced their decrees or their
solemn orations to the people. In the Llwyn, or grove, they fre-
quently erected pillars and idols as memorials of their deified heroes,
or they had in them a heap of stones called earn or carneddau, for
they had a peculiar mode of worship by throwing and heaping of
stones. They had also altars or cromlechs, on which they performed
the solemnities of sacrifice and their sacred rules of divination. In
some large or more eminent groves pillars and heaps of stones were
enclosed together, or near, as they are to be seen to this day, and
from the devastation of time often found separately, particularly heaps
and columns. Hitherto this island has been represented as under
the command and government of the Ancient Druids, with their
establishment, authority, and religion ; now it remains to be shewn
how these religious societies came to be dissolved and rooted out of
the island by the Romans, under whose sceptre it continued some
hundred years after the defeat of Caractacus, and sending him pri-
soner to Rome. The Ordo vices, or Men of North Wales, though
deprived of their chief, made frequent attempts to shake off the
galling yoke of a severe and unaccustomed subjection, therefore made
this island a place of refuge whenever they became harrassed by the
Roman legions ; whence it has been called the island of heroes, and
the refuge of the distressed Britons. In the time of Caractacus,
it appears, Suetonius Paulinus was governor of Britain, and plainly
saw there was no quelling the restless spirit of the bold and daring
Ordovices while this island, the fountain of their courage, remained
untouched. Convinced of the truth, he fitted out a little armada
while the Britons or Druids were at their altars, uttering loud invo-
cations and curses and sacrifices, so that the screams of dying victims
were heard to echo one another from the hollow resounding groves in
every quarter, and altars smoking with the horrid burnings of the
bodies of men, women, and children — of rogues, profligates, and
captives.

This was the state of the island when the Romans took to their
boats, and were even swimming their horses over the Menai, with a
concurrent tide, without the least opposition from the druids, who
were no way prepared for their reception, except by venting the
curses of their religion, which they expected would do greater execu-
tion on the daring assailants than the sharpest British darts or
weapons. In this they were not quite deceived, for it is acknowledged
by the Roman authors that the very sight of their mad ceremony for

some

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 249

some time stupified the Roman soldiers more than the blows they
received from their misguided enemies, until Suetonius called to his
legions " to drive away the foolish multitude, whose vain impreca-
tions and foolish gestures thought to stop the progress of the Roman
arms, although they had already conquered the greater part of the then
known world." Now the enraged Romans having got to land,* the
conquering sword took its fill of British blood, while the giddy
Druids stood still, without the array of battle, to see their sacrifices
and oblations prove ineffectual on the fearless Romans. In this
distressing situation of affairs, we are told the Druids nimbly slipt
away to the woods and coverts, leaving their people to be miserably
cut down and slaughtered by the advancing Romans, who, without
pity or moderation, hacked and hewed down on all sides the un-
fortunate Britons, augmenting the flame of their unhappy sacrifices
with the fuel of their slain and wounded bodies.f After this con-
quest, those who escaped the general carnage, or were concealed in
holes and caves, made their escape to the sea, and were never after
heard of, leaving the Romans in absolute possession of the island, and
the sacred things and places, which they unmercifully demolished and
threw prostrate under their insulting feet, or devoted to the most
gross and barbarous purposes. To render the conquest permanent
Suetonius settled a garrison over the separate districts and townships
of the whole island, which secured to the Romans a peaceable
possession, until their affairs became precarious at home, which
compelled them to relinquish Britain once more to the Ancient
Britons. The succeeding transactions and the introduction of the
Saxons into the island of Britain need no illustration to shew the
subsequent government and history of Anglesea.

This island, which constitutes one of the counties of North Wales,
is situated on the north-west of Caernarvonshire, in the Irish sea, and
only separated from the main land by a straight and narrow channel,
called the Menai (over which has lately been built one of the most
handsome chain bridges in this kingdom, and which has been
described in our notices of Caernarvonshire). The island is of a
rhomboidal shape, but deeply cut and indented on three of the sides ;
its northern, eastern, and western points are sharp and narrow ; the
southern angle is more round ; and it is in the whole twenty miles long,
seventeen broad, and seventy in circumference. In regard to the air
it is in general good, except when the thick fogs arise from the Irish

sea,

* The place of their landing, and their routing of this religious army, we have not an
exact account of, but it is generally supposed to have been near Porthamel, betweeu
Pwll-y-fuwch and Llanidan : for Tacitus says " that the horses swam it at the ford."

•f Near Llanidan, there is at present a mount or tumulus, in the centre of a field, about
three bows' shot from the sea, which seems to have been the place of this great sacrifice :
and where the Druids took up the firebrands in their hands, brandishing them like furies
about the army, and where the TComans involved the taken and slain Britons in the
devouring Hume* of their own sacrifices,

250 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

sea, which in autumn are very cold and aguish. The soil, although
it appears somewhat disagreeable to the eye, being rocky and moun-
tainous, is more fertile by far than its rough appearance promises, as
may be proved by the number of cattle and great quantities of corn
sent annually to England : notwithstanding this much of the land lies
undrained, and full of turfy bogs, or pointed rocks ; yet there are
some farms in the interior and along the coast in the richest state,
particularly on that part opposite Caernarvonshire. The general face
of the country is low, flat, and disagreeable, being in want of that
variety which is' always found where there are woods and mountains :
but the former feature is comparatively small to what we are told it
was in the times of the Druids. It is conjectured that Anglesea was
once joined to the continent of Wales, but from the continual working
of the ocean, has, in course of time, been scoured from the main
land : and, for some time afterwards, the inhabitants of Wales and
Anglesea held communications by means of a bridge, until the
passage became too wide to be any longer maintained. Mr. Rowlands,
in his Mono, Antiqua Restaurata, says — S( I will not affirm that this
spot of ground was an island from the creation ; for it is highly
probable that the universal deluge made great and remarkable
alterations on the face of the globe, raising some places which had
been sea into dry land, and depressing others that were land beneath
the irruptions of that liquid element made them seas : yet it is not
altogether unlikely that there was for some space of time after the
divulsions of the deluge, an arm of land joining the county of Angle-
sea to that of Caernarvonshire. If any such there was, it must have
been at Porthaeth-hwy, where there is still to be seen a trace of small
rocks jutting out in a line and crossing the channel, with other great
splinters of rocks fallen and tumbled down, and appearing as if the
sea had consumed and eaten away the soil in which they had been
originally fixed, leaving the rocks bare and rugged, and the stones
and broken shivers of the rocks in the bottom of the channel fallen and
tumbled one upon another." Anglesea gives the title of Marquis to
the Paget family.

BEAUMARIS,

or perhaps Beaumarish, as it was called in official papers in Queen
Elizabeth's reign. The name is variously derived : some take it to be
a compound of the French beau, fine, and marais, a marsh ; others
suppose that it is formed of the first word and mer, the sea, as ex-
pressive of the excellent road for shipping; while a third class explain
Beaumaris, as if Bimaris, to allude to its position between two seas.
It is the principal town in the island, is in the parish of Llandegvan,
and is finely situate on the western bank of the Menai, where it opens
into Beaumaris bay. It is generally neat and well built, with one
remarkable good street, and considerable remains of the wall sur-
rounding

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 251

rounding the town. The castle, built by Edward the First in 1295,
stands close by the town, and covers a considerable space of ground,
but from its low situation fails to attract particular attention ; it is
surrounded by a ditch, with an entrance on the east, between two
embattled walls, with round and square towers. The gate opens into
a court of 57 yards by 60, with four square towers, and on the east an
advanced work, called the Gunner's Walk. Within these were the
body of the castle, nearly square, having a round tower at each angle,
and another in the centre of each face. The area is an irregular
octagon, forming the court before-mentioned. In the middle of
the north side is the hall, twenty yards long and twelve yards
broad, with two round towers, and several about the inner and outward
walls, built of a bluish stone, intermixed with square stones, which
produce a pretty effect. There has been a communication round the
buildings of the inner court by a gallery two yards broad, at present
entire. In recesses in different parts of the sides of this are
square holes, which seem to have been trap-doors, or openings
into a dungeon beneath. The two eastern towers served also as
dungeons, with a narrow and dark descent, as were the galleries round
about. On the east side of this building are the remains of a very
small chapel, arched and ribbed, with pointed and intersecting
arches: likewise some gothic pilasters, narrow lancet windows, and
various compartments, with closets gained out of the thickness of the
wall. When Edward the First founded this town, and made it a
corporation, he endowed it with lands and privileges to a considerable
value, in order to secure more firmly his possessions in this island ;
he also cut a canal, in order to permit of vessels discharging their
lading beneath the walls, as is evident by the iron rings affixed to its
walls, for the purpose of mooring ships. The first governor was Sir
William Pikmore, a Gascon knight, appointed by Edward the First :
there was a constable of the castle, and a captain of the town : the
first had an annual fee of forty pounds, the last £12. 3s. 4d. : and the
porter of the gate at Beaumaris had £9. 2s. 6d. Twenty-four soldiers
were allowed for the guard of the castle and town, at four-pence a day
each. The constable of the castle was always captain of the town,
except in one instance : in the 36th of Henry the Sixth, Sir John
Boteler held the first office, and Thomas Norreys the other. The
castle was extremely burthensome to the country : quarrels were
frequent between the garrison and the country people. In the time
of Henry the Sixth, a bloody fray happened, in which David ap Evan
ap Ho well of Llwydiarth and many others were slain. From the
time of Sir Rowland Villeville alias Brittayne, reputed base son of
Henry the Seventh, and constable of the castle, the garrison was
withdrawn till the year 1642, when Thomas Cheadle, deputy to the
Earl of Dorset, then constable, put into it men and ammunition. In
1643, Thomas Bulkeley, Esq. (soon after created Lord Bulkeley)

succeeded

252 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

succeeded : his son, Colonel Richard Bulkeley, and several gentlemen
of the country, held it for the king till June, 1G46, when it was
surrendered on honourable terms to General Mytton, who made
Captain Evans his deputy-governor. In 1653, the annual expense of
the garrison was £1703. Edward the First removed the ancient
freeholders, by exchange of property, into other counties. Hen Llys,
near the town, was the seat of Gwerydd ap Rhys Goch, head of one
of the fifteen tribes, and of his posterity till this period, when Edward
removed them to Bodlewyddan, in Flintshire, and bestowed their
ancient patrimony on the corporation. Beaumaris is a chapelry, not
in charge, to the rectory of Llandegvan. The church, formerly a
chapel, dedicated to Saint Mary, is a handsome structure, with a
lofty square tower ; within the church there is .a curious monument,
probably of Sir Henry Sidney, who is mentioned in a Latin inscrip-
tion, contained in the church ; and it has contiguous to it a good free
school, founded in 1603, likewise an almshouse. Above the town is
Baron Hill, long the seat of the ancient and distinguished family of
Bulkeley. The founder of this noble mansion was Sir Richard
Bulkeley, who represented Anglesea in parliament in the 2d and 3d
sessions of Mary, the 3d of Elizabeth, and the 1st of James. On a
farm in this parish, called Lledwigan, lived Morys Lloyd, a man
whose heroic bravery excited very considerable admiration in a former
age. He was contemporary with the parliamentary wars, and is
known to posterity under the appellation of the Lledwigan Thresher.
Many of the republican soldiers, who had been exclaiming against the
oppression of the throne, became themselves the worst tyrants, and
traversed the country in powerful bands, committing various acts of
robbery and cruelty, particularly on those whose loyalty was known.
A party of this description, consisting, according to tradition, of
thirty men, arrived at Lledwigan, and required the occupier, Morys
Lloyd, who was threshing in his barn, to surrender to them a large
sum of money or his life. He immediately replied that he would not
yield the one without the other, and having partially closed the door
of his barn, attacked them with his flail, as they successively attempted
to enter. Eight or ten of them fell in this unequal contest, which
would probably have been maintained a much longer time if the
thongs, which connected together the two parts of the flail, had not
been broken by accident or cut asunder by the swords of the
assailants. Then, indeed, the superiority of number and offensive
weapons acquired their natural ascendant, and it is unnecessary to
relate the sequel. This act of heroism is briefly recorded in the
inscription on a tomb-stone in the church of Ceirig Ceinwen, where it
has been placed by the present respectable tenant of Lledwigan, Mr.
John Williams, who rescued the memorial from the oblivion to which
it had otherwise been consigned by the miserable parsimony of the
churchwardens.

About

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 253

About one mile from Beaumaris, near the shore, is Llanfaes Abbey,
founded by Llewelyn ap lorwerth, on the supposed spot where a
battle was fought between the Saxons and the Welsh about the year
818. It is probable it was fought between Egbert, King of the
West Saxons, and the Welsh, and that it was a most bloody one
may be supposed from the expression of Caradog of Llancarvan, who
styles it " the sore battle of Llanfaes." This abbey was founded in
honour of Llewelyn's wife, Joan, natural daughter of King John of
England, by a lady of the noble house of Ferrers, who, at her own
request, was buried here in the year 1237. A stone coffin, thought
to be her's, was a few years ago used as a watering trough for cattle,
at a farm called Friars, on the coast one mile north of the town, and
had been so used for a space of 250 years. The late Viscount
Bulkeley rescued it from its undeserving situation, and placed it in a
small gothic building in the park at Baron Hill. The few remains of
this abbey form at present part of the walls to a barn. The church
was dedicated to St. Francis, but was, with the other buildings,
destroyed soon after the death of Llewelyn, in an insurrection headed
by his relation, Madoc ; it was soon after restored, and again nearly
ruined by Henry IV. in consequence of an insurrection against him
by Owen Glyndwr. At different times there were interred in this
church the son of a Danish king, Lord Clifford, and numerous barons
and knights who fell in the Welsh wars. Here were also deposited
the remains of Gruffydd Gryg, an eminent poet of this island, who
flourished from about 1330 to 1370. He was the able opponent of
the British Ovid, Davydd ap Gwilym, as appears from Gruffydd's
monody, written by his generous rival. At the dissolution of monas-
teries, Henry VIII. sold Llanfaes Abbey, with Cremlyn Monach, to
one of his courtiers. The family of White, now extinct, afterwards
became possessed of it, and built a respectable house, since enlarged
and improved as well as modernized, as were also the grounds, by Sir
Robert Williams, Bart.

Two miles to the north of Llanfaes Abbey is Penmon, " the Head
or Extremity of Mona," called also Glenarch, a priory of Black
Monks, founded or richly endowed by Llewelyn ap lorwerth about
the year 1221, and at its dissolution in the reign of King Henry VIII.
was valued at £40. 7s. 9d. and granted (6th Elizabeth) to John More.
A former edifice here is recorded to have been burnt by the Danes
in 971. At present Penman consists of little more than a ruinous
refectory and a part of the "church, dedicated to Seiriol, a saint who
lived in the beginning of the sixth century. According to Tanner,
the priory was dedicated to Saint Mary ; but the author of the
History of Anglesea says that its founder was Maelgwyn Gwynedd.
In this neighbourhood are some large quarries of mill-stones. Near
Penmon is a well surrounded by a wall and stone seats, with two
spaces or places of entrance. Penmon Park originally belonged to

the

254 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

the priory, but is now attached to the Bulkeley estates. It is sur-
rounded by a very lofty stone wall, and is stocked with red deer.

About a mile from Penmon stands a small square fort, with the
remains of a little round tower at each corner ; in the middle there
was a square tower, the whole being surrounded by a foss. A hollow
way is carried quite to the shore, and at its extremity is a large
mound of earth, intended to cover the landing. This place, which is
called Castell Aber Llienawg, was founded by Hugh Lupus, Earl of
Chester, and Hugh the Red, Earl of Shrewsbury, in the year 1098.
The fort was garrisoned so lately as the time of Charles the First,
when it was kept for the parliament by Sir Thomas Cheadle, but it
was taken by Colonel Robinson about the year 1645 or 1646.

On leaving Beaumaris in a westerly direction, at the distance of
five miles is Llanedwin, a chapelry to the vicarage of Llanidan, in
which parish is situate Plas Gwyn, the seat of the late Paul Panton,
Esq. a character distinguished for his acquaintance with the history
and antiquities of his native country, and who left behind him a
valuable collection of Welsh Manuscripts. He died in 1797, in the
69th year of his age.

Plas Newydd, the seat of the Marquis of Anglesey, lies close upon
the water, protected on three sides by venerable oaks and ash. The
view up and down this magnificent strait is extremely fine. The
shores are rocky, those on the opposite side are covered with woods,
and beyond soar a long range of Snowdonian Alps. In the woods
are some remarkable druidical antiquities. Behind the house are to
be seen two vast cromlechs : the upper stone of one is 12 feet 7 inches
long, 12 feet broad, and 4 feet thick, supported by five tall stones ;
the other is but barely separated from the first, is almost a square of
five feet and a half, and is supported by four stones. The numbers of
supporters to cromlechs are merely accidental, and depend on the
size and form of the incumbent stone. These are the most magnificent
we have, and the highest from the ground, for a middle-sized horse
may easily pass under the largest. Not far from the cromlech is a
large carnedd : part has been removed, and within was discovered a
cell, about seven feet long and three wide, covered at top with two
flat stones, and lined on the sides with others.

About two miles to the south of Plas Gwyn is Pen-Mynydd, having
its church dedicated to Gredivel, son of Ithel, a saint who lived about
the close of the fifth century. This place is chiefly remarkable for
being the birthplace of Owen Tudor, the great ancestor of a line of
English monarchs, who, according to Gray's bard, restored the
sceptre of England to the Welsh, the original possessors. This Owen
Tudor married Catherine, dowager of Henry the Fifth, but fighting
against Edward the Sixth in the battle of Mortimer's Cross, he was
taken and beheaded, and afterwards buried in the Grey Friars at
Hereford. Part of his houseway, with the gateway and chimney-
piece,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. «0O

piece, still remain in a farm-house, also some specimens of eoats of
arms and escutcheons. The family of Tudor became extinct in
Richmond Tudor, who died in the year 1657, and the estates belong
to the Bulkeley family. In this church is one of their monuments,
removed here from Llanfaes Abbey at its dissolution.

At the distance of fourteen miles we pass through the village of
Bodedeyrn. The name implies " the Habitation of Edeyrn," a bard
who flourished about the middle of the seventh century, and who
embraced a religious life, and had a church here. There are two
cromlechs, about a mile east of the church, which are in good pre-
servation.

One mile arid a quarter beyond this place is the small village of
Llanyngenedl, where the road divides ; and if the tide be out,
there is a road across the sands, otherwise, by turning to the left, we
arrive at

HOLYHEAD,

or Caer-Gybi, " the Castle of Kybi," situate at the extreme point of
Anglesea. There are the remains of three chapels in this parish,
namely, Capel Lochwyd, Capel y Towyn, and Capel Gwyngenon ;
they are said to have been Roman Catholic chapels of no great note.
—About a mile to the south-east of Holyhead, on a farm called Tre'r-
ddwr, are the remains- of a cromlech in rather a perfect state ; and
there is a large vein of white fuller's earth, and another of yellow, on
the north side of Holyhead mountain, close to the sea/ which are
supposed to be of as good quality as any in Great Britain. The
church of Holyhead is a handsome embattled cruciform structure,
consisting of a chancel, nave/ aisles, and transept,- with a square tower,
surmounted by a low flat kind of spire. The present edifice, exclu-
sive of the chancel, appears to have been erected about the time of
Edward III. The inside of the entrance porch, and the external
part of the south end of the transept/ are decorated with rude carvings. '
On the pediments and battlements are cherubic heads ; and on one
two figures in a supplicating posture, with the inscription in Gothic
characters---" Sancte Kybi ora pro nobis." Cybi (says Mr. Lewis)
lived at the time of the dissolution of the Roman empire in Britain,
and was contemporary and in great friendship with Saint Seiriol.
" Saint Kebius, who flourished about A. D. 380, founded a monas-
tery here, and in after-times there was founded, in the royal frea
chapel in the castle of this place, a college of prebendaries, whos^
yearly revenue was valued (26th Henry VIII.) at £'24, as stated by
Dugdale and Speed. This college was granted (7th James I.) to
Francis Morrice and Francis Phillips." The head of the institution,
formerly one of the three spiritual lords of Anglesea, was usually
denominated Penlas or Pencolas, which some consider to have been

Pencais,
M m

256 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Pencais, or chief judge in ecclesiastical matters; but by the inscrip-
tion on the exergue of the ancient seal belonging to the chapter,
" Sigillum Rectoris et capitali Ecclesia de Caer Gybi," it appears
that his customary title was that of Rector : he was styled, in a sub-
sequent period, Provost. The estimate made in the time of Henry
the Eighth of its annual revenues, as amounting only to £24, must
have been an under-valuation. The great tythes of this college were
transferred by Rice Gwynne, Esq. (in 1640) to Jesus College,
Oxford, for the maintenance of two scholars and two fellows : and
since that time the parish has been served by a curate nominated by
the college. A school was established here in 1745, and the school
house was built of materials taken from an ancient religious building
called Capel Llan y Gwyddel, or " The Chapel of the Irishman."
Serigi, a King of the Gwyddelians, invaded this country, and was here
slain by Caswallon Llaw Hir, or " Caswallon the Long-handed," who
reigned about the year 390. Serigi was canonized by his country-
men, and had in this chapel a shrine, in high repute for many
miracles. This place had distinct revenues from the collegiate
church : at length it fell into ruin, and remained disused for ages.
William Morris, an able Welsh critic, and collector of ancient Manu-
scripts, was collector of the salt duty and comptroller of the customs
here: he died in 1764. The promontory, strictly called "The
Head," is an immense precipice or huge mass of rocks, hollowed into
most magnificent caves. One is peculiarly worth attention. It has
received the vulgar appellation of the Parliament House, from the
frequent visits of water parties to see this wonderful cavern ; it being
only accessible by boats, and that at half-ebb tide. It is one of those
usual phenomena produced by the action of sea water upon the soluble
parts of stratified rocks, more especially where calcareous substances
are prevalent in their composition. Grand receding arches of differ-
ent shapes, supported by pillars of rocks, exhibit such a magnificent
scene as cannot fail to astonish the beholder unaccustomed to nature's
bolder work. The promontory consists of high cliffs of various
heights, abounding with large caverns, which afford shelter for
innumerable birds, such as pigeons, gulls, razor-bills, ravens, guille-
mots, cormorants, shags, and herons. On the loftiest crag lurks the
peregrine falcon, the bird in so high repute while falconry continued a
fashionable amusement : the eggs of many of these birds are sought
after as delicious food, and considered as a great treat to the epicure ;
the price procured for them is a sufficient inducement for the poor to
follow the adventurous trade of egg-taking; but in this, as in the
pearl fishery on the coasts of Persia, the gains bear no tolerable
proportion to the danger incurred. — This dissevered member of
Anglesea, which, from the number of pious persons interred, received
the name of Holy Island, has had, subsequent to the bardic period,
peculiar attention paid to it in a religious point of view. The

foundations

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 257

foundations of Capel y Tywyn, Capel y Gorllau, Capel St. Ffraid,
Capel Lochwyd, &c. &c. are still traceable among several other ruins,
which are scattered about this holy promontory. The mound or
tumulus,, on which the remains of Capel y Tywyn stand, is evidently
the cemetery of a vast number of persons. Another of the more
remarkable antiquities, which are chiefly Roman, is Caer Twr, a
circular building, ten feet in diameter, on the summit of the mountain
called Pen Caer Cybi. Mr. Pennant says, it is strongly cemented
with the same kind of mortar as the fort of the town ; and he supposes
it to have been a Roman pharos, or watch-tower. The precinct of the
church-yard has been ascribed to Roman origin. The form is a
parallelogram, about 220 feet long and 130 broad; three of the sides
consist of massy walls, six feet thick and seventeen in height, the
fourth is open to the harbour, having only a low parapet laid on the
precipitous cliffs. At each angle is a circular bastion tower, and
along the walls are two rows of round openings, or millets, four inches
in diameter, having the inside smoothly plastered. The cement,
mixed with coarse pebbles, is extremely hard ; and this, in conjunc-
tion with other circumstances, exhibits evident marks of Roman
masonry. On the shore, just above high water, there is a well of
very delicious water, called Ffynnon Lochwyd, situate about a quar-
ter of a mile from Capel Lochwyd. The altar of Capel Lochwyd
disappeared many years ago, and there is scarcely a vestige of the
chapel left. Several coins of Constantine the Great, in a very perfect
state, have lately been found near this place. The first modern
improvement at Holyheacl is the South Stack Light-House, built at
the expense of the Corporation of the Trinity House, on an island
from which it takes its name, situate on the south-west side of Holy-
head mountain. This island cannot be approached by water, except
in very moderate weather ; the light-keepers are therefore supplied
with a year's stock of oils and coals during the calm weather in
summer, as it would be a laborious task, and be attended with great
expense, to supply them with any thing that was not very portable by
land communication. The way to the South Stack by land, three
miles distant from Holyhead, is the mountain road as far as a farm
called Glan-yr-Afon, which is kept in repair by the parish, and
thence across the mountain to the heights directly opposite, a distance
of about three quarters of a mile, an excellent road has been made,
and is kept in repair at the expense of the Corporation of the Trinity
House, who have also caused a zig-zag flight of steps (420 in num-
ber) to be quarried in the side of the mountain, so as to afford an easy
ascent to the nearest part of the rock on a level with the island. From
this point a bridge constructed of ropes is thrown across the passage
that separates the South Stack from the mountain. The distance is
about 100 feet, and from the bridge to the water it is about 60 feet.

The
M m 2

258 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

The view from the bridge is rather terrific ; but it seldom happens
that it becomes an obstacle in the way of those who wish to visit the
light-house. The first stone of Holyhead Pier was laid in the month
of August, 1810 : it extends into the sea about 360 yards.

On the 6th of August, 1821, King George IV. landed at Holyhead,
on his passage to Ireland, an event which forms an epoch in the
history of the principality, and of Anglesea in particular, upwards of
six centuries having previously elapsed since a British monarch was
seen in Wales. His Majesty was received on the pier by Sir John
Thomas Stanley, Bart, who read and presented to him a brief address,
congratulating him on his safe arrival within the harbour, and expres-
sive of the heartfelt joy of the inhabitants at beholding their gracious
and beloved Sovereign in the midst of them. On receiving this
address, his Majesty said that his heart was indeed warmed in
witnessing such a display of loyalty and affection in a country which
was, and always would be, dear to him, and of which he had borne
the title of Prince for the greatest period of his life. After remaining
a short time on the pier, his Majesty and suite proceeded in three of
the Marquis of Anglesea's carriages to Plas Newydd, which seat they
reached about six o'clock. On the following (Wednesday) morning
deputations arrived from the corporations and other public bodies of
Anglesea and Caernarvonshire, to present loyal addresses to the king.
His Majesty received them in the grand saloon, in the subjoined
order : from the Bishop and Clergy of the Diocese of Bangor ; the
High Sheriff and Gentlemen of the county of Caernarvon ; the Mayor,
Bailiffs, and Burgesses of the borough of Beaumaris; the Mayor,
Bailiffs, and Burgesses of the borough of Caernarvon ; and from the
body of Calvinistic Methodists. On this occasion I. Huddart, Esq.
the High Sheriff of Caernarvonshire, received the honour of knight-
hood. His Majesty returned to Holy head about four o'clock in the
afternoon, and was received at the entrance of the town with similar
attention and respect as were evinced on his landing, and he was
conducted to his barge amidst the reiterated cheers of a vast concourse
of people. The squadron immediately manned their yards, royal
salutes were fired, and the town was illuminated. The squadron was
detained in the bay by contrary winds until Sunday, when, about five
o'clock in the afternoon, the king took his final departure, and pro-
ceeded to the shores of Ireland. Such an event was not likely to be
passed over without some display. Accordingly a public meeting
was held on the 9th of August, and a general subscription was
resolved to be entered into for the pnrpose of erecting a triumphal
arch, commemorative of the landing of his Majesty, on or near to the
scite of the temporary erection of the same name : a committee was
formed ; and on Wednesday, the 7th of August, 1822, the anniversary
of the royal landing, the committee met at the Custom-house, when,
the secretary having informed the gentlemen of the committee that

everv

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 259

every thing was in readiness for immediately laying the first stone,
they forthwith proceeded to the pier, where the stone was laid with
every circumstance which was calculated to produce an impressive
effect. This elegant monument of loyalty was finished and publicly
opened on Friday, the 6th day of August, 1824. It is entirely of
marble, is of the Doric order, and is composed of four handsome
pillars, twenty feet high, which are placed two on each side of a
carriage-way fourteen feet wide, and separate from each other five or
six inches. Outside of the pillars, and of the same height, are two
rectangular pillars, twelve feet by three feet six inches, leaving a
footpath on each side of the carriage-way of five feet. The whole is
surmounted with a bold projecting cornice, and covered over with
three tiers of stone, which recede from the front of the cornice all
round, in the form of steps. There are two entablatures; one on the
east and the other on the west side, the former bearing a suitable
inscription.

On leaving Beaumaris in a north-west direction, at the distance of
fifteen miles, is Llannerch-y-medd, a considerable market town.
Between this town and Amlwch, which is situated about six miles to
the north, are several ridges of the green asbestine slate ; the road
runs also along a ridge of aggregate rock, containing quartz, iron,
foliated magnesia, and clay ; to this succeed brechaias and lime, in a
clay cement ; then several ranges (stretching to the coast) of limestone
and breccia. In most of these the pebbles inclosed .in the calcareous
cement are of quartz alone, a circumstance not easily accounted for.
The whole of this country bears evident marks of having been under
water ; indeed the rocks themselves afford ample proof of the action
of water on their surfaces, as do also the upper stratum of the soil,
being commonly full of shells and other marine exuvia. From hence
may be discovered the green asbestine rock, terminating Anglesea at
Bangor Ferry.

Amlwch was formerly a small hamlet containing only six houses,
which were occupied by fishermen. In the short space of 160 years
the number of births in this parish gradually increased from 13 to
199 per annum, which can only be ascribed to the inflnx of miners,
smelters, &c. to the Parys copper mines. It is also observable that
there is a great superiority in the number of births to that of burials,
which is certainly an indication of the sobriety and regular living of
the inhabitants, notwithstanding their apparently unhealthy occupa-
tions. The church, consecrated by Dr. Cleaver, Bishop of Bangor,
in 1801, is an elegant building, erected by the Parys Mine Company
at the expense of £4000. It is dedicated to Elaeth, a royal bard
and saint, who flourished from about A. D. 640 to 700. There is one
of his compositions in the Myvyrian or Welsh Archaiology. Am-
lwch is a perpetual curacy. There is only one chapel of ease annexed
to the curacy; it is called Llan Gwynllwyvo, where service is

performed

260 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

performed once in a fortnight: there were formerly two others, but
they have been in ruins many years. Of one of these, the foundation
of the church and part of the churchyard wall are still to be seen. It
was called Llan Lleianan, or " the Cell of the Nuns," situate about
four miles west of Amlwch, near Llan Badrig, near a place called
City Dulas, and about the same distance from Llangadog. From the
operation of the copper mines of the Mynydd y Tresclwyn, or " Hill
of Copper," as the Parys mountain was anciently called, Amlwch
derived its prosperity. The present name of the mountain is said to
have been taken from that of Robert Parys, or Paris, Chamberlain of
North Wales. There is a Robert Paris the younger named as a
commissioner in an Inquisition in the 8th year of Henry IV. to tine
the Anglesea insurgents in the cause of Owen Glyndwr. The preci-
pitation of copper by means of iron, from its solution in waters
acidulated with sulphuric acid, or rather from that acid diluted with
water, has long been known, and was formerly considered as the
actual transmutation of iron into copper. Hutchinson speaks of this
transmutation having been attempted as early as 1571, in Dorsetshire ;
but though the process was simple, it does not appear that for some
years any experiment satisfactorily succeeded in the Parys Mine. In
1579, the Society for the Mineral and Battery Works, at the instance
of Lord Burleigh, their President, employed Mr. Medley for this
purpose; and in some measure succeeded, but not sufficiently, it
seems, from the event, to be encouraged with a commercial view.
The process for procuring copper in this way at the Herrngrundt
mines, near Newsol, in Hungary, where the water, however, is more
strongly impregnated, was published in 1673 by Dr. Brown, in his
Travels. Notwithstanding the light which in various quarters was
thrown on the subject, the immense treasure in the Parys mountain
lay neglected until the year 1762, when Fraser, a Scotch miner, came
in search of ores, and gave encouragement to other adventurers.
Though he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in the mountain,
he was prevented from proceeding by the influx of water. Sir
Nicholas Bayley, who had leased the lead mines at Penrhyn-du, in
Carnarvonshire, to the Macclesfield Company, bound them to make a
spirited effort to work the Parys mine. This they did, but with so
little encouragement, that after some time they sent positive orders to
the agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge the miners.
The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed his injunctions, and, as at
the last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, where he
sunk, and within seven feet of the surface discovered the body of ore,
which was worked with great success for many years. This happened
on the 2d day of March, 1768, whence Saint Chad has ever since
been the patron of the Anglesea mines. The Marquis of Anglesea
succeeded his father, the late Lord Uxbridge, in the possession of
one portion of these copper mines ; and Lord Dinorben is the other
principal proprietor. About

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 261

About two miles to the east of Ami wch, near the coast, is Llanelian.
Here is a small well called Ffynnon Elian, or Saint Elian's Well,
which was formerly in great repute ; the water is tasteless but good ;
but it is not believed to possess any medicinal virtue. It is situate on
the Irish sea. The chapel of B6d-Ewryd has been detached from
this rectory, and erected into a perpetual curacy, for which Queen
Anne's bounty was procured. There stands, within four yards of the
church, a small chapel, which has been joined by a passage to the
chancel of the church. It appears to have been built tirst as a cloister
for the saint, and must have had a small bell, as there is a place for
one : it is called the Myfyr, or " Place of Meditation." The church
of Llanelian is a handsome edifice, strongly built of grit stone ; the
corners of red free stone, covered with lead, and supported by massy
timbers of oak ; it has a spire, with a belfry containing three bells. It
was formerly highly ornamented with paintings of the portraits of the
saint and the apostles, but they are now almost destroyed, except that
of the saint. In the east window are some small remains of stained
glass. In the Myfyr or cloister, before-mentioned, there exists a
small relic of superstition : this is an oaken box fixed to the wall ; it
is semicircular, about six feet long, thre.e feet wide, and four feet high,
with a door or hole a foot broad and almost three feet high. During
the wake, commonly called Gwyl Mab Saint, which is holden in the
month of August, the people pass respectively into this box, and
should they get in and out with ease, having turned round in it three
times, they believe they will live out the year ; but otherwise they
assuredly die. It is pretended, that while some bulky folks have got
in and out easily, other slender ones have found the greatest difficulty,
so that sometimes the box iias been removed from the wall. In the
church is the Cuff Elian, a large chest in form of a trunk, round on
the top and studded with iron nails, with an aperture to put in alms.
All who bathed in the well made their offerings into the Cuff, other-
wise they were not to hope for any benefit from it. The amount so
received was formerly very great : people used to come from all the
counties of North Wales. It is opened only once a year, namely, on
Saint Thomas's Day. The original church was built by Llan-Elian,
the patron saint, about the year 450 : he was denominated Cannaid,
or " The Bright," and is the British Hilary. Caswallon Llaw Hir,
or (< The Long-armed," endowed the chureh with many privileges,
and franchises, and lands, that were holden in his name by the free-
holders. But the saint has been deprived of all, except one tenement
of about £'20 per annum, and even the rent of this farm has been for
some years past perverted, to ease the parishioners of the poor-rates,
instead of expending it on the repairs of the church. At the distance
of about eight miles from Amlwch, at Camlyn Bay, are some excellent
marble quarries.

Aberffraw is a small village situate on the south-west part of the

island,

262 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

island, near the Irish Sea. The town is noted in history for being
once a chief seat of the Princes of North Wales, and where one of the
three courts of justice for the principality were holden. In its palace
was kept a copy of the celebrated code of laws founded by Howel
Dda, in the year 940, for the better government of Wales, of which
two transcripts were made for the use of the public and the distri-
bution of justice. The last prince who lived here was Llywelyn ap
Gruffydd, who was killed at Fishguard, in South Wales, upwards of
500 years ago. There are no vestiges of his palace ; but there is a
garden at the south-west end of the town, called Gardd y Llys, or
" the Palace Garden." The Eisteddvod, or Triennial Meeting of the
Bards, was holden here in the reigns of its ancient princes. The
ruinated church, called Eglwys y Baili, or es the Bailiff's Church,"
was rebuilt by Sir Arthur Owen, Bart, in the year 1729, for a school,
which he endowed with four pounds per annum, for teaching six poor
children in the Welsh language. Near this place are found the
amulets called by some Gleiniau Nadroedd, or Adder Stones, and by
others called Glain Naidr, or Druid Glass Rings ; they are supposed
to have been manufactured by the Romans, arid given in exchange to
the superstitious Britons in commerce. At present they are consi-
dered as excellent remedies for a cough and ague ; and that they
assist children in cutting their teeth will scarcely be doubted. The
vulgar opinion is, that they are produced by snakes joining their heads
together and hissing, which forms a kind of bubble like a ring on the
head of one of them, which the rest by continual hissing blow on till
it comes off at the tail, after which it immediately hardens, and
resembles a glass ring. It is a common tradition, that whoever finds
one of these will prosper in all their undertakings. Mr. Pennant
says, " this wondrous ring seems .to be nothing more than a bead of
glass, used by the Druids as a charm to impose on the vulgar," In
the vicinity of Aberffraw is the small lake of Llyn Coron, abounding
with several fish, which induce numbers to frequent it in the summer
season for the amusement of angling.

At the distance of about seven miles to .the north-west of Aberffraw
we pass through the tqwn of Newborough. The British name was
Rhos Vair, and here was a Llys, or Royal Palace of the Princes of
North Wales, who occasionally retired here. Edward the First
erected the towp into a corporation, a circumstance which, it is said,
gave rise to its English name ; he also granted a guild mercatory,
with other privileges, which were confirmed by parliament in the first
year of Edward the Third. In the third year of Henry the Eighth it
returned a member to parliament, and again in the first of Edward
the Sixth, who transferred the elective franchise to Beaumaris in the
following year. " The glory of Newborough (says Mr. Pennant) is
now passed away." ' By virtue of its ancient charter the town is still
governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, and a recorder, with other assistant

officers,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 263

officers, who keep regular courts here. The palace and chapel were
both in existence in the reign of Edward the Third, as appears from
an Inquisition taken in 1329 before William de Shaldeford, the repre-
sentative of Richard Earl of Arundel, the Justiciary of North Wales.
In the latter part of that reign were found ninety-three houses, thirteen
gardens, one orchard, twelve crofts, and sixty small pieces of ground
enclosed for the use of the houses. The crown had its steward for
this district, with a salary of £10 a year. It now subsists by the
manufacture of hats, nets, and cordage, which latter, from their being
composed of a species of sea-red grass, are called rhosir-morhesg
ropes, a plant, of which Queen Elizabeth, in tenderness to such of her
subjects who lived on sandy shores, wisely prohibited the extirpation,
in order to prevent the misfortunes which have since happened, of
having half the parish buried in the unstable sands by the rage of
tempests. In the vicinity of what has been considered the domestic
chapel to the royal palace at Frondeg, there is an upright stone bear-
ing a commemorative inscription, which is now illegible, but which
Mr. Pennant judged to have been set up for some Danish chieftain. —
Newborough is celebrated in Wales for being the residence and birth-
place of John Morgan, an old blind musician, who was among the
last that played on the ancient instrument called the Crwth, the
original of our present violin.

Two miles north-west of Newborough is Llan Gadwallader or
Eglwys Ael. — The church is dedicated to Saint Cadwaladyr, the last
nominal King of the Britons ; according to Mr. Owen he was called
one of the three blessed kings on account of the protection and sup-
port afforded by him to the fugitive Christians, who were dispossessed
by the Saxons / he died in 703, and with him the title of King of the
Britons ceased. The church is a small edifice, with two chapels,
forming a cross with the body of the church : one of them belonging
to the Bodorgan family ; and the other to that of Bod-Owen, both
of this parish ; this church is said to have been originally founded by
Cadwaladyr, who appointed it for one of the sanctuaries of the island;
the stone mentioned by Camden and Rowlands, which has given a
value to the church in the eyes of the antiquarians, still remains,
forming the lintel of the southern door-way, and has the inscribed
face downwards. The stone is supposed by the learned Edward
Llwyd, author of the Archeologia Britannica, to be only a fragment.
Some conjecture that it is a portion of the monument of Cadvan, the
grandfather of the founder, who was interred here, and not, as is
generally stated, in the island of Bardsey. Mr. Llwyd says, that it is
dated 607, and supposes its mutilated inscription to refer to Cadvan,
the son of lago, who was Prince of North Wales at that period.
Bodorgan, in this parish, was the residence of Edmund Putland
Meyrick, Esq. who was supposed to have been one of the richest
commoners in the kingdom, having, at the time of his death, about

three

264 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

three hundred thousand pounds in the funds, besides a very large
landed property in England and Wales ; he left a widow and two
daughters, co-heiresses. Bod-Owen was the seat of the ancestors of
the Owens, Baronets, of Orielton, in Pembrokeshire.

About three miles to the north-east of Newborough, on the right of
the road, is Llanedwen, a chapelry to the vicarage of Llanidan. The
church, which was built in the year 640, is dedicated to Saint Edwen ;
it is situate on the straits of the Menai. Llan-Edwen is notable as
having given birth to the learned antiquary, the Rev. Henry
Rowlands : he was born in 1655, bred at Oxford, and was instituted
to the vicarage of Llanidan with the annexed chapels, in October,
1690; died in the, year 1723, and was interred in the south part of
the church. His principal work, Mona Antiqua Restaurata, is too
well known to be more particularly noticed in this place.

In the parish of Llanallgov is a small spring, which was formerly
held in great esteem. In a farm called Llugwy, in the adjoining
parish of Llaneigrad, are the ruins of an old chapel, which belong to
the parish church, and which is still known by the name of Capel
Llugwy.

Llanbabo. — This parish is situate five miles north-west of Llanerchy-
medd. Pabo Post Prydain, or "Pabo the pillar of Britain," so
called for his having been a great support to the Britons against the
Picts and Scots, about the year 460, founded a church here. " There
was an ancient tradition," says Mr. Lewis Morris, " in the parish of
Llanbabo, in Anglesey, that Pabo, with his son and daughter, was
buried in that churchyard, opposite to certain faces that were carved
in a wall, and to be seen to this day. In King Charles the Second's
time, or thereabouts, the sexton happening to dig a grave against one
of the carved faces, at about six or seven inches deep, found a flat
grave stone, one corner of which he picked, and demolished a few
letters before he knew what it was ; the stone was then removed into
the quire, where it hath remained ever since. It hath on it the figure
of a man in long robes with a coronet on his head and a sceptre in his
hand, with a long beard, and a Latin inscription neatly cut,-T~basso-
relievo-wise ; on one edge of the stone are these letters — " Hie jacet
Pabo" &c. His tomb still remains, with an inscription round his
effigy. Near Llanbabo are two cromlechau.

Llanddwynwen. — The church, which is now in ruins, is dedicated
to Saint Dwynwen, who lived about the middle of the fifth century :
it was a very fine building, and great part of the walls are still
standing on a peninsula, which is somewhat more than half a mile in
length. Near it are the remains of the prebendal house, which is
remarkable as having been the residence of Richard Kyffin, the last
rector, and afterwards Dean of Bangor, known by the name of Y Deon
du, or "the black dean," who, according to Mr. Pennant, was a
strenuous friend to the House of Lancaster, and here concerted with

Sir

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 265

Sir Rhys ap Thomas, and other Welsh chieftains, a plan for
in the Duke of Richmond, then in Britanny, to whom they transmitted,
by means of fishing vessels, all necessary intelligence. The whole
parish, which is frontier to Newborough towards the sea, and forms a
kind of peninsula, is covered with sand hills, the driftings from these,
during the prevalence of strong westerly winds, fleeting over the
adjacent lands, form a sad annoyance to the neighbourhood, which, in
consequence thereof, is quite barren ; there is not at present any -house
near the church. In the time of Edward the Third there were, on
this peninsula, no more than eight small houses : yet, in the reign of
Henry the Eighth, it was one of the richest prebends in the diocese of
Bangor. Amidst the sandy flat, surrounded by rocks, near the shore,
was an oratory of Saint Dwynwen, the daughter of Brychan Urth, one
of the holy colidei or primitive Christians of Britain, who lived in the
fifth century ; as the British Venus or tutelary saint of lovers, the
votaries of Dwynwen were numerous. A church having been built on
the spot, a shrine erected to her memory was attended by multitudes
of devotees in the ages of superstition ; and the religious, who, from
this circnmstance, were induced to take up their secluded residence
here, made no small gains from the pious ignorance of the people.
The patroness of amatorial connections was profusely supplied with
votive offerings by those who required her mediation. Here subse-
quently is said to have been an abbey founded for Benedictine monks,
though it was probably only a cell of a very small chapter of canons.
According to Mr. Rowlands, in his Mona Antigua, the clergy who
resided here were not paid in tithes ; but were supported, in popish
times, by the contributions of the credulous, who resorted thither to
learn their future destiny from the monks, which they foretold from
the leaping of the fish, and by the appearance of the holy well, called
at this day Ffvnnon Fair, i. e. " Saint Mary's well." According to
Mr. Carlisle, the ruins of two houses are still visible, one called Ty'r
Parson, i, e. " the parson's house," and the other Ty'r Clochydd, i. e.
si the sexton's house :" there is a tradition that the peninsula before
alluded to extended much further into the sea. In the time of Owain
Glyndwr the treasury belonging to the shrine of Dwynwen excited
the cupidity of one lorwerth Vychan, rector of Llanddoged, who
made pretensions to the offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them :
but Gruffydd le Yonge, chancellor to the Welsh hero, interfered, and
by a decree put a stop to the invasion of the rights of the place.
There is an abundance of fish, lobsters, crabs, &c. on this eoast.

Llan-dyfrydog, or Llan-dyvrydog. — The church was dedicated to
Saint Tyfrydog, who lived in the latter part of the sixth century.
Upon Clorach farm there is an upright stone, with a large protu-
berance on one side of it, called Lleidr Ty Dyfridog, i. e. " The
Tyfrydog Thief," concerning which there is a tradition that a man
who had sacrilegiously stolen a church bible, and was carrying it

away

206

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

away on his shoulders, was for his transgression converted into this
stone. There are also two wells on this farm, one on each side of the
road leading to Llannerch-y-medd, and exactly opposite to each
other, remarkable, not for their medicinal virtues, but as having been,
according to tradition, where Saint Seiriol and Saint Kybi (the former
the patron of Ynys Seiriol, and the latter of Caer Kybi or Holy head,)
used to meet midway between both places, to talk over the religious
affairs of the country. The wells are to this day called Ffynnon
Seiriol, and Ffynnon Kybi, i. e. " Seiriol's Well," and " Kvbi's
Well."

Llandysilio. — The church, supposed to have been first founded
here about the year 630, is dedicated to Saint Tysilio. It is singu-
larly situated on a barren rock, forming a little peninsula, about a
quarter of a mile to the west of Porthaethwy. Near here, on the
Anglesea shore, is a rock known by the name of Carreg-Iago, or
rather Carreg-yr-Iacon, or ^Arch-Iacon, " the Archdeacon's Stone,"
rendered memorable on account of Archbishop Baldwin's having
stood up to preach the crusade upon it at the time of his peregrin-
ations for that purpose through Wales in 1188; when Alexander,
Archdeacon of Bangor, is stated to have interpreted Baldwin's oration
to the people. On a farm called Rait atfe extensive ruins of an
encampment, said to have been Roman : they are situate on a high
bank, a short distance from the great turnpike road from London to
Holyhead. An instance of a lord selling his vassals and their off-
spring occurred at Porthaethwy many years after the reign of the
Princes of North Wales, but the deed of sale is not extant.

Llaneigrad. — The church is dedicated to Saint Eigrad, and is
supposed to have been first built about the year 605. All the springs
here arise from limestone rock, and the water, as the inhabitants
suppose, breeds a distemper among their cattle which they call
damp. It seizes them in their joints, and they become very lean and
lank. The parish is situate on the Irish sea. Here are the remains
of an old chapel, called Capel Llugwy.

Llanenghenedl. — The church is supposed to have been built about
the year 620, and is dedicated to Saint Enghenedl, the grandson of
Brochwell, who is recorded to have been the commander of the
British forces under Cadvan in the memorable battle of Chester in
603, when they were defeated by Etheldred, King of Northumber-
land, and the monks of Bangor were massacred.

Llanvaelog. — The original church is supposed to have been built
about the year 605, and dedicated to Saint Maelog, who lived in the
middle of the sixth century. It is ten miles south-east from Holy-
head, and is situate on the Bay of Carnarvon, in which abundance of
soles and turbots are caught in the summer. On a farm called Ty
Newydd is a cromlech, the upper stone of which is 12 feet long.
Llan-faethiu, or Llan-vaethlu. — The mansion house of the ancient

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 267

and respectable family of Griffith of Carreg Llwyd (descended from
Ednyfed Vychan, whose arms they bear,) is situate in this parish.
It appears by several pedigrees that George Griffith, Bishop of Saint
Asaph, was a younger brother to William Griffith, of Carreg Llwyd,
LL. D. Chancellor of Bangor and Saint Asaph, and one of the
Masters of the High Court of Chancery, who married Mary, the
daughter of John Owen, Bishop of Saint Asaph, from whom is
descended Holland Griffith, Esq. the present proprietor of Carreg
Llwyd. The said William Griffith died in 1648, aged 49, and Mary
his wife died in 1645, aged 31. ---The learned John Davydd Rhys,
M.D. author of the Welsh Grammar published in London in
1590, was, according to tradition, born in this parish, and was son
to the parish clerk thereof.

Llanvair in Mathavarn Eithav. — The chapel is dedicated to Saint
Mary. A great number of mill-stones of a very fine kind are dug up
on a common at a place called Rhos Vawr. There is a cromlech at
Marian Pant y Saer, and formerly there was one at Llech tal Mon,
but it is now demolished. In the churchyard is a modern carnedd,
composed of a rude heap of stones, five feet in height, twelve wide,
and eighteen long. Beneath the heap is a hollow cavern, the^entrance
guarded, according to the ancient Jewish and British customs, by a
large stone. This whimsical sepulchre was erected by a Mr. Wynne,
and has long been the place of interment for the family. — Near the
millstone quarries is a small cottage, in which Goronw Owain, M. A.
one of the most eminent and learned of the Welsh bards, was born on
the 1st of January, 1722. He was educated at the free school at
Bangor, from whence he removed to Jesus College, Oxford, at the
sole expense of Dr. Edward Wynne, of Bod Ewryd, in this county,
and after being worn out with unavailing expectations of obtaining
some small preferment in his native country, he removed to Williams-
burg, in Virginia, of which church he was appointed a minister ; and
thus was the fairest flower of British genius transplanted to wither in
the ungenial climes of America. His poetical works were printed,
with other productions, in a volume under the name of Diddanwch
Teuluaidd, which is now become very scarce.

In the parish of Llanvair Pwll Gwyn Gyll, on a rocky eminence
near the shore, is the site of an ancient British fortification called
Craig y Dinas, opposite to which, in the straits, are those terrible
rocks called by English sailors The S welly, but known to the Welsh
as Pwll Ceris, " a name," says Mr. Morris, in his Survey, " borrowed,
it is likely, from the Roman Charybdis, such another dangerous place
on the coast of Sicily."

In the parish of Llanvair yn Nghornwy, upon the farm of Caerau,
is found the native fossil stone called asbestos, remarkable for greater
or less degree of flexibility, and being incombustible. About a mile
from the village is one of the ancient monuments called Meini Hirion.

It

2G8 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

It is a large equilateral triangle, formed of three huge stones placed
upright at a distance of five hundred yards from each other. Two
circular encampments, with a fosse and vallum, denominated Castell
Crwn, are in the vicinity of this monument.

In the parish of Llanvechell is a mineral spring, near the domain of
Cefn Coch, which has effected some cures of lameness, but it is not
known beyond the parish, and near it is a fallen cromlech. Here is
also a very fine quarry of curious and beautiful marble ; its variegated
colours are black, dull purple, various shades of green, and some-
times intersected with white asbestine veins. From this quarry,
which some years ago was purchased for £1000, blocks of a large size
are procured, which are susceptible of a high polish ; they are cut
into slabs, and formed into chimney pieces, side-boards, and sepul-
chral monuments.

In the parish of Llan-flewyn is a chapel which was built about the
year 630, and dedicated to Saint Flewyn, who, with his brother
Gredivel, first presided in the college founded about A.D. 480, by
Pawl or Paulinus, on the river Tav, in Caermarthenshire, which
afterwards came to be called Ty Gwyn, or Whiteland Abbey. In
this parish there was dug up some years ago three golden bracelets,
and a bulla* of the same metal, in a high state of preservation. Two
of the former were purchased by Mr. Pennant, as " curious memo-
rials of the residence of the Romans in ancient Mona."

The parish church of Llanvihangel Tre'r Bardd is dedicated to
Saint Michael ; the name distinguishes it as having been anciently a
Bardic or Druidic station, and as such several monuments are to be
seen. Near the church is a large pillar, called Maen Addwyn,
standing erect, and supposed to be one of those Meini Gwyr pillars
mentioned by Mr. Rowlands in his Mona Antiqua Restaurata, p. 52.
On Bodavon Hill is " the shapely cromlech" mentioned by the same
respectable writer as thrown down, and lying on its three supporters
in the lands of Blochty ; the table stone measures ten feet in lengtli
by eight in breadth : its common name among the people is Y Maen
Llwyd. Not far distant, at Barras, is a smaller one in ruins ; and
between these there is another demolished cromlech, called Carreg
y Fran, which was evidently a double one, and, when standing, very
similar to the double cromlech at Plas Newydd, in the parish of
Llanidan.

Llanvihangel Tyn Sylwy hath its church dedicated to St. Michael ;
it stands immediately beneath a high precipitous hill, near Llan-
ddona, called Bwrdd Arthur, or " Arthur's Round Table," on which
are the remains of a great British fortification, denominated Tyn, or
Tyn Sylwy, " the Exploratory Fort." It is surrounded by two lofty
valla, formed of rude stones, and enclosing a deep fosse. In the area
are the vestiges of oval buildings, of which the largest is formed with

two

* An ornament worn by the Roman youth, as a kind of amulet.

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 269

two rows of flat stones set on end. These are supposed to have been
temporary habitations of the occupants of the fortress. To an invad-
ing army this must have presented a considerable obstacle, since its
natural situation, combined with its artificial defence, renders it almost
impregnable. The hill slopes steeply on all sides, and, as an ad-
vanced post for watching the movements of the northern invaders who
anciently ravaged the island, it was admirably situated. Near the
shore are two round mounts in a deep gully, which appear to have
been raised by the Danish pirates to protect their vessels when on a
plundering expedition to this island.

Llanvihangel yn Nhywyn. — The name of this parish signifies Saint
Michael's church, on the common near the sea. On the common
there are vestiges of some primeval habitations, as noticed by Mr.
Rowlands : nothing, however, appears at this time to be known of
them. On the 10th of October is annually held, what is called Gwyl
Mab Sant, but which of late years has degenerated into a meeting for
hiring of servants.

Llan Gefni. — The church is dedicated to Saint Cyngan, a saint
who founded many churches in Wales and flourished about the begin-
ning of the sixth century. There is a chalybeate spring, formerly in
great repute for rheumatic complaints, and which is still recommended
by most medical men in this county. The name is derived from
the British word Cafn, a hollow place or dingle, at the entrance of
which is the church. The river Cefni flows through the parish.
Tre Garnedd, a farm-house, was once the seat of Ednyfed Fychan,
a chieftain of great power in Mona, in the beginning of the thirteenth
century, and the able general and minister of Llywelyn the Great,
and his arms were originally a saracen's head erased proper, wreathed
or ; but after defeating a powerful English army which invaded the
frontiers of Wales, and killing with his own hand three of their prin-
cipal commanders, whose heads, according to the barbarous practice
of the times, he brought to Llywelyn, that prince, in commemoration
of his services on this occasion, directed that he should bear gules,
between three Englishmen's heads* couped, a chevron ermine. Di-
rectly descended from this chieftain was the celebrated Sir Owen
Tudor, or more properly Owain ap Meredydd ap Tudyr, the ancestor
of Henry the Seventh, and collaterally of many illustrious families.
The grandson of Ednyfed, the ill-fated Sir Gruffydd Llwyd, was
born at this place. He was one of those who consented to acknow-
ledge, as their legitimate sovereign, any person born in Wales who
should be nominated to that rank by Edward the First, who conferred
on him the honour of knighthood for bringing him the first intelli-
gence of the birth of his son Edward at Caernarvon. He did homage
to the young prince for his Welsh estates at Chester, but afterwards,
indignant at some real or imaginary offence, and resenting the
oppression under which his countrymen laboured, he meditated a

revolt.

2?0 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

revolt. With this view,, between the years 1316 and 1318, he inef-
fectually attempted to form an alliance with Edward Bruce, the
short-lived King of Scotland. Notwithstanding his want of success,
his patriotism did not abate its energy, and he determined to raise
the standard of freedom alone, and deliver his country from a slavery
to which he had contributed. In 1322 he appeared in arms, and,
aided by the two other insurrections under Madog and Owain Glyn-
dwr, for some time overran the country with resistless impetuosity.
At length he was defeated by the English, when he retreated to
Tregarnedd, which he had strongly fortified, and garrisoned with his
followers another stronghold in the mOrass of Malldraeth, about three
quarters of a mile distant, called Ynys Cevni, which he insulated by
bringing the water of that river around it : both are still remaining.
Mr. Pennant conjectures " that he underwent the common fate of our
gallant insurgents."

Llan-Geinwen hath its church dedicated to Saint Ceinwen. It is
situate on the straits of Menai, opposite the town of Caernarvon.
In this parish is Maes y Forth, formerly bestowed by Llewelyn ap
lorwerth, Prince of North Wales, as " Provision Land," on the abbey
of Conwy. Here is also the ferry-house of Tal y Foel, between the
island of Anglesea and the town of Caernarvon. On a farm in this

one
twelve

feet high, but, when the present farm-house was built, it was blasted,
in order to make lintels for the doors and windows : the farm, from
this pillar, is called Maen Hir, or " the Long Pillar." The church is
supposed to have been first built about the year 590.

Llangristiolus hath its church dedicated to Saint Cristiolus, a saint
who lived in the middle of the seventh century, and it is supposed to
have been built about the year 610. This was the birth-place of Dr.
Henry Morris, who, in the seventeenth century, distinguished himself
as a polemical writer : his father was curate of this parish, but gave
his son a classical education : he died soon after being elected (in
1 69 1 ) Margaret Professor of Divinity in Oxford. There is a cromlech
at Henblas in this parish. There is also an extensive waste in this
parish, called Cors Degai. The name of this Cors or waste is spelt
different ways, some making it Cors y ddau cae, that is, "the Marsh
of the Two Fields," but there is no ground for such a definition ;
others, again, Cors ddu cae, that is " the Black Deceitful (quaggy)
Marsh : but Tegai, the founder of Llan Degai, near Bangor, built
himself a cell in this marsh, the foundation of which is still visible,
and it is now called My n went y Llwyn, or " the Churchyard of the
Grove;" so that the whole marsh, probably from him, was called Cors
Degai, or " Tegai's marsh." Here is free-stone for building, and at
Llan-Ddwyn a green stone with red and white spots, which will bear
a good polish. There is likewise here a ponderous ruddy spar, in

great

parish, there was, a few years ago, a large stone pillar, probably
of those called by Mr. Rowlands Meini Gwyr, it was about twc

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 271

treat plenty, at a place called Llan-ginwen, whose specific gravity is
.25, and which no doubt contains some metal.

Llangwyvan (the church dedicated to Saint Cwyfan, who lived
about the close of the seventh century,) is situated at the extremity of
the parish, and is frequently surrounded by the sea, which often rages
violently here. Divine service is performed every other Sunday.
When the sea surrounds the church, the congregation assembles in a
house, part of which is consecrated. According to the terrier, each
time the minister attends he may order hay for his horse, two eggs
for his breakfast, a penny loaf, and half a pint of small beer, in lieu of
tythe-hay of a farm called Plas Gwyfan. The church is built like
that of Aberffraw. Here is a quarry of white marble, which, as it
bears a good polish, may be worth the attention of statuaries.

Llanidan. — The church is dedicated to Saint Idan, and was origin-
ally built in the year 616. Here is a seat of Lord Boston, finely
situate on that arm of the sea commanding upwards a beautiful
view of the town of Carnarvon and the Snowdon hills. The church
once belonged to the convent of Bedd Celei-t, and in 1535, it followed
the fate of that house. Queen Elizabeth granted it to Edmund Dow-
man and Peter Ashton, who sold it (in 1605) to Richard Prytherch,
of Myfyrian, whose daughter married a Llwyd of Llugwy : on the
extinction of that family, all their estates were bought by Lord Ux-
bridge, who left them to his nephew, Sir William Irby, the late Lord
Boston. Mr. Pennant says, " In the church is a reliquary, made
neither of gold nor silver, nor yet ornamented with precious stones,
but of very ordinary grit, with a roof-like cover. — I must not pass
unnoticed the celebrated stone, called Maen Morddwyd, or " the
Stone of the Thigh," now well secured in the wall of the church. In
old times it was so constant to one place, that, let it be carried ever
so far, it would be sure of returning at night. Hugh Lupus, Earl of
Chester, determined to subdue its loco-motive faculties, fastened it
with iron chains to a far greater-stone, and flung it into the sea ; but,
to the astonishment of all beholders, it was found next morning in its
usual place. The Earl on this account issued a prohibition against it
ever again being removed from its place. A simple countryman,
however, fastened it to his thigh, which immediately putrified, and
the stone exerted its loco-motive faculties by returning to its station.
I now enter on classical ground, and the pious seats of the ancient
Druids, the sacred groves, the altars, and monumental stones. At
Tre'r Dryw, or " the Habitation of the Arch-Druid," I meet with
the mutilated remains described by Mr. Rowlands. His Bryn Gwyn,
or Royal tribunal, is a circular hollow of 180 feet in diameter, sur-
rounded by an immense agger of earth and stones, evidently brought
from some other place, there not being any mark of their being taken
from the spot : it has only a single entrance. This is supposed to

have
N n

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

have been the grand consistory of the druidical administration. Not
far from it was one of the gorseddau, now in a manner dispersed, but
which once consisted of a great copped heap of stones, on which sate
aloft a druid instructing the surrounding people. Here were also the
reliques of a circle of stones, with the cromlech in the midst, but all
extremely imperfect. Two of these stones are extremely large ; one,
which serves at present as part of the end of a house, is 12 feet 7
inches high and 8 feet broad, and another 11 feet high and 23 feet in
girth : some lesser stones yet remain. This circle, when complete,
was one of the temples of the Druids, in which their religious rites
were performed. It is the conjecture of Mr. Rowlands, that the
whole of these remains were surrounded with a circle of oaks, and
formed a deep and sacred grove. Near this is Caer Leb, or " the
Moated Intrenchments," of a square form, with a double rampart,
and broad ditch intervening, and a lesser on the outward side ; within
are foundations of circular and of square buildings. This Mr. Row-
lands supposes to have been the residence of the Arch-Druid, and to
have given the name Tre 'r Dryw to the township in which it stands.
At Tref Wry I saw several faint traces of circles of stones and other
vestiges of buildings, all so dilapidated or high in weeds as to become
almost formless. Bod Drudan, or the habitation of the druids,
Tre 'r Bardd, or that of the bards, and Bod Owyr, or that of the
priests, are all of them hamlets, nearly surrounding the seat of the
chief druid, composing the essential part of his suite. At the last I
saw a thick cromlech, resting on three stones. The shore near Forth
Ami, not far from hence, is famed for being the place where Suetonius
landed, and put an end in this island to the druidical reign. There
are no traces of any Roman works left in this country ; their stay was
so short, that they had not time to form any thing permanent. At
Bryn Gwydryn, behind Llanidan, are two or three dykes and fosses
of a semicircular form, each end of which terminates at a precipice,
leaving an intervening area of no great space. Both from its figure
and name (Caer Idris) I suspect it to be British."

Llaniestyn is a chapel, dedicated to Saint lestyn, " son of Geraint,
(says Mr. Pennant,) a worthy Knight of Arthur's Round Table, slain
by the Saxons at the siege of London ; others say that he was slain,
fighting under Arthur, in the battle of Llongborth, as is learnt from
his elegy composed by Llywarch Hen." It is two miles north of
Beaumaris. It is also attractive to antiquaries on account of its con-
taining a tomb, which is nearly perfect, and of curious workmanship,
supposed by some to be that of its tutelar Saint. The figure of a
man is carved on the tomb, with his head covered with a hood or
cowl, a large round beard, and whiskers on the upper and lower lip,
his cassock is bound with a sash and a long cord, over which is a long
cloak, fastened with a brooch. In one hand he holds a staff, with the
head of some beast on the top ; and in the other a scroll with an

inscription,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 273

inscription, on the decyphering of which antiquaries do not exactly
agree.

Llansadwrn. — A fragment of a stone, with an inscription upon it,
was found, a few years ago, in the church-yard, and is fixed within
the church. There is also an uncouth head, projecting from the wall
of this church, on the inside, supposed to be intended for Saturnius,
the patron saint. At Trefor there is also a cromlech.

Llan Trisaint. — The church is dedicated to Saint Sanan, Saint
Afran, and Saint leuan. It is an extremely plain building, but it-
contains an elegant monument to the memory of the Rev. Dr. Hugh
Williams, who derived his descent from the British chieftain, Cadrod
Hardd. He was an ancestor of the Wynnstay family.

Penrhos Llygwy hath its church dedicated to Saint Mechell. It
is situate near the Irish sea. Mechell or Macutus lived in the
7th century, and was made Bishop of Saint Maloes, in Little Britain.
This church or cloister was called from his name Llan-fechell. He
died, it seems, in the island of Anglesea, and was buried in his own
church, called Penrhos Llygwy, in whose church-yard there is an old-
fashioned grave-stone, with an inscription, which, by the form of the
letters, seems to be genuine. Lewis Morris, an eminent antiquary
and poet, was born in this parish, according to Mr. Owen, in the year
1702, and died on the 1 1th of April, 1765, at Penbryn, in the county
of Cardigan. Several of his poetical compositions in the Welsh
language are now printed. He left behind, also, about 80 volumes
of ancient manuscripts, which are now deposited in the Welsh charity
school in London. Richard Morris, his brother, was also an ingeni-
ous Welsh critic and poet : he passed the greater part of his life as
first clerk in the navy office ; during which time, he superintended the
printing of two valuable editions of the Welsh Bible. He died in the
year 1779.

Pen Traeth hath its church dedicated to Saint Mary. The name
signifies a head or point of sand, being situate upon a bay facing the
Irish sea, called Traeth Coch, or " Red Wharf." According to Mr.
Morris, Red Wharf is a noted place for the limestone trade, which is
carried on to all the neighbouring counties. At a place called Twll
y Wig, in this bay, there are large loose blocks of grey marble, which
have been thrown out of their beds by the sea. Near this place are
noted quarries of mill-stone of the grit kind, which are shipped off
here. The sand of this place is good manure. The Rev. Henry
Rowlands, in his Mona Antiqua Restaurata, informs us, that Ge-
rinnus or Geraint, who was grandson of Constantino Duke of Corn-
wall, the successor of King Arthur, being admiral of the British fleet,
and having thereby sometimes occasion to harbour in the isle of
Anglesea, probably caused the church of Pen Traeth to be built, and
thence called Llan Fair Bettws Geraint. He is celebrated in a par-
ticular
N n 2

274 TOrOGFxAPITICAL NOTICES.

ticular ode, called Cywydd Geraint ab Erbin, by Llywarch Hen.
The little chapel of Pen Traeth, according to Mr. Grose, is more
remarkable for its simplicity and the beauty of the rural scenes by
which it is surrounded, than for any matters of antiquity or curiosity
in its construction or contained within its walls : it is, nevertheless, no
very modern building, its form being that of the most ancient
chapels in Wales. Among the other humble ornaments with which
it is decorated within, are a number of paper garlands suspended
from the roof : these, from the circumstance of their having each a
pair of hands in the centre, seem to commemorate the hymeneal
unions of some of the parishioners. Here are no funeral monuments
older than the sixteenth century.

Rhos Col\n hath its church dedicated to Saint Gwenfaen, and it is
supposed to have been first built about the year 630. It is situate
upon St. George's Channel. A green amianthus, or brittle asbestos,
is met with in great plenty in a green marble here. Rowlands, in his
Mono, Antiqua Restaurata, derives Rhos Colyn thus : ' Rhos Colyn,
or Colofn, a column ; the Romans usually erecting columns at the
utmost bounds of their victories, as Dion Cassius relates.' Rhos, in
the Welsh language, means a tract or a piece of uncultivated land.
There is an imperfect tradition in this parish that Colyn, or lolyn, is
a man's name : this, however, is uncertain. It is commonly under-
stood that its ancient name was Llanwenfaen. Rowlands also observes
the same, and that Gwenfaen, sister to Peulan, had her cloister at
Rhos Colyn, which afterwards became a parish church called Llan
Gwenfaen ; as her brother's cloister was at Llan Beulan. That there
was, at one time or other, a house of worship standing on the spot
which is now pointed out as its site, and which may formerly have
given name to the parish, appears most probable, as well from the
general prevalence of the tradition as from the constant discovery of
human bones, whenever that piece of ground is cut up either by the
spade or the ploughshare.

Priestholm or Glan Ach is a small island about a mile from the
shore, which, perhaps, might have been the principal residence of the
religious of Pen M6n, for the priory goes under both names ; usually
they are called Canonici de insula Glanii Ach. Probably part,
might reside on the main land, to look after their property, and others
be engaged in acts of devotion in their retirement. The only remains
of their residence is a square tower : but abundance of human bones,
scattered up and down, are strong proofs of its reputed sanctity, and
the superstitious wish of people to have this made the place of their
interment. The first recluses of this island, according to Giraldus,
were Hermits. The channel, or, as it is called, the sound, between
the main land and Priestholm, is very deep, and is the common
passage for ships to and from the road of Beaumaris. On the other
side is the east passage, which, at low water, ig between the island

and

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 275

and the point of Traeth Telafon, little more than a quarter of a mile
broad, and navigable for only small vessels. The island is about a
mile long, extremely lofty, and bounded by precipices, except on the
side opposite Pen Mon, and even there the ascent is very steep : the
land slopes greatly from the summit to the edge of the precipices.
During part of summer, the whole island swarms with birds of
passage. The slope on the side is animated with the puffin auks,
who annually resort here in myriads from April to August ; where
they breed, that one part of the island appears at times almost covered
with tfcem. On their arrival they first form burrows, and lay one
white egg, which is generally hatched by the beginning of July.
Their noise, when caught, is horrible, resembling much a dumb
person ; their chief food is sprats and sea weeds until the time of their
emigration, which is about the middle of August. The channel be-
tween Priestholm and Anglesea has produced some very uncommon
fish.

The Skerries or Isle of Seals is situate at the north- western point
of Anglesea, it is a rocky little island, possessed by a few sheep,
rabbits, and puffins, with a good light-house of great use to mariners;
the light may be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and is
of great use to ships sailing between Ireland and the ports of Chester
and Liverpool. From this coast are plainly seen the town of Car-
narvon, the Straits of Menai, with some high and grand mountains,
and Snowdon at a distance: scenery which must at all times convey
an idea of elegance and dignity.

The following eminent men were natives of the county of Anglesea :
— Meilir Brydydd, o Dre Feilir (some of his compositions are in the
Welsh Archaiology), died about 1150 ; Gwalchmai ab Meilir (ditto),
1180; Eineon ab Gwalchmai (ditto), 1200; Meilir ab Gwalchmai
(ditto), 1200; Ednyved Vychan, 1230; Goronwy Gurrog, 1360;
Goronwy Ddu ab Tudyr ab Heilyn, 1370; Gruffydd Grug, of Aber-
ffraw, 1370 ; Robin Ddu o F6n, or Robin Ddu ab Siancyn Bledrydd,
1370; Sir David Trevor, 1500; Lewis M6n, 1500; Davydd Alaw,
1540; Sion Brwynog, or Sion ab Hywelab Llywelyn ab Ithel, 1540;
Arthur Bulkeley, Bishop of Bangor, 1541 ; William Glynn, Bishop
of Bangor, 1555; Rowland Meyrick, Bishop of Bangor, 1561 ; Hugh
Perri, 1590 ; Dr. John Davydd Rhys, poet, grammarian, and phy-
sician, 1609; Hugh Hughes, or Bard C6ch, 1760; Richard Lloyd,
of Henblas, Bishop of Worcester; Gronw Owain, M. A. Bard; Sir
Griffith Llwyd; Dr. Henry Morris, polemical writer.

MONTGOMERYSHIRE.

276 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

MONTGOM ERYSH 1 RE.

JL HIS county is bounded on the north by Merionethshire and Den-
bighshire, on the north and north-east by Shropshire, on the south
by Radnorshire and Cardiganshire, and on the west by the last
mentioned county and Merionethshire. It is called by the English
Montgomeryshire, from Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury,
who about the year 1092 entered Powysland (as this county and part
of Denbighshire was then called), and took the town and castle of
Baldwyn, then possessed by the Welsh, fortified the place, and called
it, after his own name, Montgomery. The county is known to the
Welsh by the name of Sir Drevaldwyn. This Baldwin was Lieute-
nant of the Marches under William the Conqueror, from whom the
Welsh call the principal town Tre Valdwyn (Baldwin's Town), and
the county (when so formed by King Henry VIII.) Sir Dre Valdwyn ;
for before that time, as before mentioned, it was called by the Welsh
Gwlad Bowys, and by the English Powysland. Its principal market
towns are Montgomery, Welshpool, Machynlleth, Newtown, Llan-
idloes, Llanfyllin, and Llanfair. Montgomeryshire was one of the
five new counties formed by act of parliament in the time of Henry
VIII. The others were the shires of Monmouth, Denbigh, Breck-
nock, and Radnor, Prior to that time it was divided, according to
Leland, into High and Low, or Upper and Nether Powys. " In
High or Upper Powisland," observes that author, " north-westward
towards Aberystwith, are two lordships, Aurustli and Cavilioc
(Cy veiliog). In Arustli is no pretty town nor market, but Llanidloes.
In all High Powys is not one castle, that evidently appeareth by
manifest ruins of walls; and they were wont to bring, in times past
(in the old Lord Dudley's days), their prisoners to Welshpool. Low
Powys is in length from Buttington bridge, about two miles from
Welshpool towards Shrewsbury. In Low Powys is but only the
castle of Welshpool. All Nether Powys, with Welshpool market
and castle, belongs to the Lord Powys. Welshpool had two Lord
Marchers' castles, within one wall, the Lord Powys named Greye,
and the Lord Dudley called Sutton ; but now the Lord Powis hath
both in his own hands. The W'elshpool castle is in compass almost
as much as a little town ; the Lord (Duddele) Dudley's part is
almost fallen down ; the Lord Powis's part is meatly good. Welsh-
pool, five miles from Montgomery, is the best market in Low Powis,
and Mahentle (Machynlleth) in Cavilioc (Cyveiliog) is the second
town of Mongomerikeshire, and there was once a year a session to be
kept there ; it is sixteen Welsh miles from Montgomery. Poor Caer-
llews, hath been a market and a borough privileged." " Keri

lordship,"

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 277

lordship," says also Leland, " Kidowen lordship, Alcestlitle lordship,
the lordship of Treelte alias Three Towns, belongs to Montgomery,
as parts or members of it, and be in the King's hands. Arustli and
Kevilioc lordships now belong also to the King; they were lately the
Lord Dudley's. Master Mittion, of Shropshire, is now Lord of
Mouthey lordship, first allotted to Montgomeryshire, afterwards to
Merionethshire. Dowder (Deuddwr) did belong to the Lord Dud-
ley, but now to Master Andrews/ of Oxfordshire. All Chirbyri
hundred, by the new act, is added to Shropshire^ but before the
division it was a member of the lordship of Montgomery ; and the
Worthing village, six miles from Montgomery, was a boundary to
Shropshire, but now Shropshire one way toucheth within a mile and
a half of Montgomery town. Caerdicol (Caerdigol) is four miles
from Montgomery. It standeth in Chirbury hundred on a hill, aud
is moated and diked like the moat a mile out of Bishop's Town, dim
castle, belonging to the Earl of Arundel, i^ somewhat ruinous. It
hath been both strong and well built. It is about seven miles from
Montgomery, and three from Bishop's Town (Castle), and ten from
Ludlow. Clun, or Glune, was a lordship marched by itself, before
the new act forming five new shires or counties. Between Newtown
and Montgomery I saw, on the left hand upon a woody hill-top, the
walls of Talvarran (Dolvorwyn) castle. It is in the lordship of Kid-
owen, and about half a mile or more from the river Severn^ and three
miles above Montgomery. This was the principal place Jn all this
lordship. Clun Forrest is very fair, and good game in it; but in
Kerry forest there is no deer, and none in Kidowen forest. Strata
Marcella?, " Abbey of White Monks," is in Low Powys, two miles
from Welshpool, hard on the further bank of the Severn. Llanlligan,
a very small poor nunnery, about the border of Kidowen and Nether
Powys. Chirbury, a priory of canons in Chirbury hundred, now in
Shropshire, two miles from Montgomery, and much of the stone and
lead were brought to repair Montgomery. Castel Cough (Castell
Coch), in English Red Castle, standeth on a rock of dark red-
coloured stone. It had two separate wards, one whereof was the
Lord Dudley's, but now both belong .to Lord Powys."

The greater part of the present county of Montgomery was, in the
time of the Romans, included in the territory of the Ordovices : but
the Cornavii, Carnabii, or Carinavii, inhabited all the present Shrop-
shire and Cheshire. Ancient Powys was originally very extensive,
for when entire, it reached, in a straight line, from Broxton Hills, in
Cheshire, southward, to Pengwern Powys, now called Shrewsbury,
including a large tract in both these counties : from thence to the
eastern limits of Montgomeryshire, comprehending all that county,
part of Radnorshire, and Brecknockshire : then, turning northward,
included the commots of Mawddwy, Edeirnion, and Glyn Dyfrdwy,
in the county of Merioneth, and, circuiting part of Denbighshire,
»• came

278

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

came along the hills, to the east of the Vale of Clwyd, as far as
Moel Vamma, including all the county of Denbigh, except the present
lordships of Ruthin and Denbigh : from thence eastward to the
Broxton hills, taking Molesdale, Hopedale, and Maelor, in Flintshire.
It appears by the articles of pacification between Henry the Third
and Llywelyn, the last prince, that the limits of the principality
experienced but a small diminution from what they were in Offa's
time, when it was agreed that the Dee should be the boundary from
Wirral to Castrum Leonum, or Holland from thence, in a direct line,
to Pengwern Powys, or Shrewsbury. Wales was, perhaps, of much
greater extent under the reign of Brochwel Ysgythrog, Prince of
Powys, about A.D. 660, who was defeated by the Saxons at the
battle of Chester. After this event the borders became a scene of
rapine, the Welsh and the Mercians alternately making the most
terrible inroads into each other's dominions, till the time of Offa, A. D.
780, who, passing the Severn with a mighty force, expelled the
Britons from their fruitful seats on the plains, and reduced the king-
dom of Powys to the western side of the celebrated Dyke, still known
by his name. The Princes of Powys wrere then constrained to quit
their ancient residence at Pengwern or Shrewsbury, and remove it to
Mathrafal, in the vale of Meivod : from this period their kingdom was
called, indifferently, that of Powys or Mathraval. The plains of
Shropshire then became part of the Mercian kingdom; but the two
Maelors, with many other commots, still continued to be the portions
of Powys.

About the year 843, Rhodri the Great, prince of Wales, in his
mother's right, possessed North Wales (Gwynedd) ; in that of his
wife, South Wales, (Dinevor); and by that of his grandmother, Nest,
sister and heiress to Congen ap Cadell, King of Powys, claimed all
that portion of the principality. That prince, according to the
destructive custom of gavel-kind, divided his dominions between his
three sons. To Anarawd, he gave North Wales ; to Cadell, South
Wales ; and to Mervyn, Powys. Each of them wore a talaith, or
diadem of gold, beset with precious stones, whence they were styled,
" Y tri Ty wysog Taleithing," or the three crowned princes. After
the death of Mervyn, his portion was claimed by his brother Cadell,
whose eldest son, Hywel Dda, or the Good, in 940, again united all
Wales into one government. We shall pass over the confusion which
ensued after his death till the time of Bleddyn ap Cynvyn, who
governed Wales at the time of the conquest, and united the kingdoms
of North Wales and Powys. After his death, Trahaiarn ap Caradog
took possession of Gwynedd, of which he was afterwards deprived by
Gruffydd ap Cynan ; and his three sons, Meredydd, Cadwgan, and
lorwerth, under whose government Powys still continued, were
inveigled into the treasonable designs of Robert Belesmo, the son of
Roger Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, and Arnulph ,, his brother,

Earl

TOrOGIJAPHlCAL NOTICES. 279

Earl of Pembroke, who had engaged in rebellion against King Henry
the First. By artfully detaching lorwerth from the confederacy,
Henry succeeded in quelling this insurrection. A series of feuds and
hostilities, unpleasing in the recital, arise at this period in the history
of Wales. However, after the usual contentions between the
brethren respecting the divisions cf their father's territories, the
government of Powys became invested in Meredydd, the eldest son,
and he, a short time prior to his decease, made the division which
finally destroyed the power of this once potent kingdom. It is evident
that the territories of the pvinces of Powys were more subject to the
incursions of the English than the other part of North Wales, on
account of their proximity to the marches or borders, and notwith-
standing the princes and lords of Powys were homagers and
tributaries of the princes of Aberffraw, or North Wales, who had
the superiority by the laws of Hywel Dda, yet, being compelled by
the rigorous conduct of the English, they frequently broke their
allegiance to the princes of Gwynedd, and took the contrary part with
the kings of England.

The population of this county, like that of all others in the northern
division of the principality, is rapidly increasing. The increase of
population, particularly in the parishes of Newtown and Llanidloes,
is attributed to the improvement in trade, and the flourishing state of
the woollen manufactures.

This being a bordering county, and the inhabitants (in the course
of trade) having regular intercourse with their Saxon neighbours, as
the Welsh called them, the English language has made greater pro-
gress and encroached more upon the Welsh during the last century in
this, than probably in any other county in Wales, except Radnorshire.
Being anxious (says a modern writer) to ascertain more particularly
in what parishes the former was spoken, and the latter either totally
discontinued or but partially used, I made application to a gentleman
who is resident in the county, and perfectly competent to answer my
enquiries on this or any other subject relative to the language, history,
and antiquities of the principality, and received from him the follow-
ing very satisfactory reply : — i( CyffLniau Cymru a Lloegr (confines
or boundaries of England and Wales) : In what parishes in Mont-
gomeryshire the English language is vernacular ? I will commence my
tour at Eisteddfa Gurig (Saint Gurig's seat or chair, near the source
of the triad streams, Severn, Wye, and Rheidiol, which latter goes
into the sea near Aberystwith). The population of Llangurig and
Llanidloes, on the south of the Severn, is mostly Welsh, and Welsh
services predominate in the churches ; but whether English be read
every third or fourth Sunday I cannot say. Down the Severn from
Llanidloes the population becomes gradually more Anglicised on the
south side. Llandinam has some Welsh service, but the quantum
depends in a great measure on the bias of the minister. Below

Llandinam,

280 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Llandinam, keeping still on the south of Severn (here the line of
demarcation), the population and church service are English, includ-
ing Penystrywad, Mochdref, Newtown, Kerry, Llanmerewig, Llan-
dyssil, Montgomery, Forden, and Buttington, which border on
Shropshire. Opposite Llanidloes and Llandinam, on the north of
Severn, Welsh population prevails, viz. in the parishes of Carno,
Trefeglwys, and Llanwnog, and Welsh more than English duties are
performed in the churches. Following the Severn still on the north
side to Aberhafesp, Tregynon, Llanllwchaern, Bettws (the Bedwg
of the Archaiology), and Berriew, the population becomes more
English, and the service in the churches entirely English. To the
north of the last line of parishes Welsh is the exclusive language, and
is read in the churches of Llanwyddelan and Llanllugan ; Manafon
has Welsh and English alternately ; the parishes called Chwe Plwy
Cyveiliog (the six parishes of Cyveiliog), viz. Machynlleth, Llanwrin,
Penegos, Darowain, Cemmaes, and Llanbrynmair, are decidedly
Welsh. To the east of Cyveiliog, namely, in the parishes of Garth-
beibio, Llangadvan, and Llanervul, the language is nearly altogether
Welsh, though English is used once a month in the latter church,
chiefly for the convenience of one or two families. Proceeding still
eastward, the parishes of Llanvair-Caereineon, Llangynyw, Castell,
Meivod, Llanvechain, Llansanffraid, Llanvyllin, and Llangedwyn,
have a mixed population, the Welsh considerably predominating, yet
the church service is in some of them alternate, in others once in
three weeks, &c. Above, or west of these parishes, viz. in Llanrhaiadr-
yn-Mochnant, Llangynog, Pennant Melangel, Hirnant, Llanwddyn,
and Llanfihangel-yn-Ngwynva, the population is Welsh, and the
services are the same. On the north of the Severn, in the eastern
extremity of the county, viz. the parishes of Pool, Guilsfield, Llan-
drinio, and Llandyssilio on Offa's Dyke, the services are become
entirely English within the last century, though in all of them there
may still be some inhabitants who would prefer Welsh ; for even here
the zealous itinerants are able to collect Welsh audiences. From the
above sketch it appears that the line of demarcation in Montgomery-
shire between the Welsh and English, though not easily drawn, may
be traced from the junction of the Tanat with the Vyrnwy above
Llanymyneich, and proceeding southward, leaving on the left (on the
English side) New Chapel, Guilsfield, Pool, Berriew, Tregynon, and
Aberhafesp, and thence following the Severn to Pumlumon mountain,
though for many miles from its source, the Welsh is the prevailing
language on both sides.

Ever since the Reformation, various attempts have been made to
eradicate the Welsh language ; but, like the sturdy natives of Cambria,
it has continued to dispute its ground inch by inch, though its enemies
have been incessant in their attacks, and have had recourse at different
periods both to stratagem and open hostility, to promises and per-
suasions,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES, 281

suasions, threats and intimidations. This will appear evident to any
one who will take the trouble to consult Dr. Llewelyn's Tracts, and
the revered Mr. Walter's Dissertation on the WelsJi Language, Dr.
John Rees's Welsh Preface to his Grammar, and Roger Kyffin's
Preface to the Translation of Bishop Jewel's Apology. Though
it was enacted by parliament in the year 1563, that the Old and New
Testament should be translated into the British or Welsh tongue,
and that the work when finished should be viewed, perused, and
allowed by the Bishops of St. Asaph, Bangor, St. David's, Llandaff,
and Hereford ; yet it does not appear, that any persons were
nominated to compleat this arduous undertaking, no means specified,
and no funds appropriated for that purpose ; and although a penalty
of forty pounds was to be levied on each of the said bishops, yet these
prelates would, no doubt, have preferred paying that sum to the risk
of incurring the expense which was likely to attend such a publication.
When, however, a benevolent clergyman, the Rev. William Morgan,
Rector of Llanrhaiader yn Mochnant, in this county, undertook the
Herculean task, seemingly from motives of benevolence and compas-
sion towards his countrymen, some malicious persons, instigated, no
doubt, by the enemies of the Welsh language, contrived to harass and
annoy him, and to impede the progress of his work, by presenting
a memorial to the Archbishop of Canterbury, containing some
frivolous and vexatious complaints, and representing him as inten-
tionally and voluntarily absenting himself from his benefice, when he
was from necessity compelled to be in London, in order to superintend
the printing of his Bible, which appeared in the year 1588, and was
the first edition of the Old and New Testament in the Welsh language.
Mr. William Salusbury's New Testament came out in 1567: but as
these, and Bishop Parry's, in 1620, were intended solely for the use
of Churches, the Welsh had not an abundant supply of Bibles, and,
consequently had not the advantage of reading the Word of God in
their own language for upwards of a century after this period. The
poorer classes were consequently kept in darkness and ignorance till
about the middle of last century, when another humane, benevolent,
and public-spirited clergyman, the Rev. Griffith Jones, of Llan-
ddowror, in Carmarthenshire, began to establish Welsh charity
schools, and went about collecting subscriptions and preaching in
different churches in aid of this Christian undertaking, until, at last,
by his indefatigable zeal and industry (aided by a few active persons
of a similar disposition), the schools amounted to some hundreds, and
were spread over North and South Wales. This excellent man had
the happiness to see the fruits of his labours, having lived many years
to superintend these excellent institutions. Mr. Jones continued to
publish annual reports of the proceedings in the management of these
schools until the period of his death in 1761. The commencement
of these institutions constituted a new era in the annals of the princi-
pality,

282 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

pality, and the inhabitants have since that time gradually become
more enlightened, more humane, and generally better informed.

Whitaker, in his History of Manchester, supposes the two great
roads, generally considereid to be Roman, viz. " Guetheling, or
Watling Street," leading from Sandwich to Segontium (Carnarvon),
and the Icenin from Dorsetshire to Suffolk, to have been formed by
the Britons (the former by the Cantae, and the latter by the Belgae),
prior to the arrival of that adventurous and warlike people, who
greatly improved the roads, and constructed several others, such as
the Via Julia, which crossed the country of the Silures. He sup-
poses Watling Street to have been called by the Britons Sarn
Guithelin or .Gwyddeling, from the circumstance of its leading to
Ireland, the seat of the Gwyddeli (or Gwyddel and Gwyddelwyr) as
they are called by the Welsh : and the other Sarn Icenil (or Rhicenil
yr Hicenilwyr y Canolwyr), from its direction to the country of those
people. With regard to the much disputed, and yet undecided,
controversy respecting the scite of Mediolanum, Camden (f. 651 )
makes the following observation : — " I am firmly persuaded, and I
think I have truth on my side, that in this region of the Ordovices
stood Mediolanum, celebrated by Antoninus and Ptolemy, whose
traces I carefully sought for, but with little success, so completely
does time prey upon cities. If I may, however, form a conjecture
from situation, as the other towns placed here by Antoninus are easy
to find, viz. Bovium on one side, now Bangor on the Dee, and on
the other Rutunium, now Rowton Castle, from the latter of which he
makes it twelve miles distant, and from the former 20 : the lines of
position, if I may so call them, or rather of distance, intersect each
other between Mathraval and Llanvethlin (Llanfylling), which are
scarcely three miles asunder, and point out the situation of our
Mediolanum almost to demonstration : for this method of finding the
situation of a third place, by two already known, cannot be liable to
uncertainty, when neither mountains interpose, nor the course of the
roads is obstructed. This Mathraval, which is five miles west of the
Severn, and which in part proves its antiquity, though now but a bare
name, was once the seat of the princes of Powys, and is celebrated by
writers, who relate, that in it, after the princes had abandoned it,
Robert de Vieuxpont, or Vipont, of England, built a castle; but
Llanvethlin (a small market town) is yet nearer allied by name to our
Mediolanum, though somewhat further from the intersection of the
lines."

Gale, Stukeley, Horseley, &c. according to their various conjec-
tures and surmises, have placed Mediolanum, some at Meivod, others
at Drayton, &c. ; and the editors of the Beauties of England and
Wales] having probably been informed that the late Rev. Peter
Roberts was of opinion that Clavvdd Coch, in the parish of Llanymy-
nech, had the fairest claim to the honour of being considered as the

scite

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 283

scite of the long-lost Mediolanum, entered it as such in their maps of
stations, though in the body of the work they have fixed on Penybont,
near the junction of the Cynllaith with the Tanat, as the most probable
place. And Sir Richard Colt Hoare, after having made three
successive journies from Stourhead, in Wilts, to the vale of the Tanat,
and having anxiously and attentively explored that neighbourhood,
came to the conclusion that it must have been situated in that vale,
and that the rapid Tanat had swept away every vestige of the ancient
station. Mr. Pennant asserts, that when he was in this country, and
passing over Gwynfynydd, he could easily trace the Roman road
called Sarn Swsan, and that from Caer Svvs it points towards Meivod,
and might be distinctly traced as far as the banks of the Vyrnwy, near
Lyssin : and Dr. Worthington, at that time Vicar of Rhaiadr-yn-
Mochnant, assured Mr. Pennant that the same road was discernible
in his parish at a place called Street Vawr, near Coed y Clawdd, and
that it crossedfRhos y Brithdir to Pen y Street, and from thence to
Llaniwrch, and thence to Caerfach, which is supposed to have been
a small Roman camp ; and he was of opinion that it went from thence
nearly in a direct line for Chester. The same gentleman mentioned
another road to Mr. Pennant, which appeared to have come from
Rutunium (Rowton, in Shropshire), and crossed the Tanat at Garth-
eryr, from thence it passed Street y Planirau to Maengwynedd,
winding up to Bwlch Maengwynedd, and bearing the name of Ffordd
Gam Helen (Helen's Crooked Road). Caer Sws, before mentioned,
is supposed by Mr. Pennant to have been a Roman town. On the
north-west side of it are hollows, which possibly might have been the
fosses of the ancient precincts ; and bricks have been found there,
one of which was presented to Mr. Pennant, having thereon the letters
C. I. F. and under them S. P. E. A Roman coin was also discovered
there, but of what emperor is uncertain. The Roman causeway
(says Mr. William Jones, in his History of the Three Parishes of
Llanervul, Llangadvan,and Garthbeibio,) | called Sarn Sws or Sarn
Swsan, which leads from the old Roman station Caer Svvs to Chester,
or rather the old Roman road from Caer Llion (Caer Lleng) ar Wysc
to Caer Lleon ar Ddyfrdwy (Chester), enters the parish of Llanerv.ul
on the hills of the Drum, goes through a bog called Cors y Visog
(now impassable), from thence it crosses the moors in a direct line to
Bwlch y Drum, and, having gone down Cynniwyll, it crosses the
Danwy below Neauddwenn, and then (up Craig y Go) it enters the
parish of Llanmihangel at a place called Rhyd Pont Ystyllod. There
was a bridge over the river on this spot, as appears by the name Pont
Ystyllod (a timber bridge) ; and the Roman road from Uriconium to
Segontium must have crossed the Sarn about, this place, though it is
covered with coarse grass on the moorish grounds of the Drum ; yet
it may be easily discovered at some distance in the form of a ridge,
and the pavement may be found somewhat below the surface. The

quarries

284 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

quarries where the stones have been procured, and the scite of the
workmen's huts, are still discernible. The site of the Roman en-
campment at Caer Sws is visible, being a quadrangular rampart about
150 yards square. It bears evident marks of having been a place of
considerable note : tradition says that it formerly extended from
Aberhavesp to Ystrad Vaelawn. It is now an inconsiderable hamlet,
situate on the river Severn above Newtown. Besides the one noted
by Mr. Pennant, a brick was dug up in the south-east angle, which
had the following inscription in alto relievo : G. I. C. I. P. B. There
are considerable remains of four encampments in its vicinity — Rhos
Ddiarbed, Gwynfynydd, Y Gaer Fechan, and Cefn Carnedd. The
name Caer Sws is supposed by some to be derived from Hesus, a
Roman lieutenant, which was pronounced by the Britons Caer
Hesoos, and by contraction Caer Sws or Soos."

In a mountainous district like North Wales there must naturally be
a variety of climate, and a great difference of temperature, not only
occasioned by the seasons of the year and the changes of weather,
but by proximity to high mountains or distance from the sea shore :
for it is generally remarked, and we believe universally admitted, that
the sea air is milder than the interior ; and it is a well-known fact,
that those counties which border on the sea shore have a much smaller
portion of frost and snow in severe winters than those more, inland.
For instance, when the snow has been many feet, and in some places
many yards deep, along the whole line of the Irish road from Salop
to London, the island of Anglesey has been frequently known to be
perfectly free from snow. Judging from this circumstance, we may
suppose that the air in this county must in general, except in well-
sheltered situations, be colder and keener than in Anglesea or any
other maritime counties, or parts of counties, bordering on the sea.
But as the mountains which surround the county of Montgomery
slope more gradually, and are not so lofty, abrupt, rocky, and preci-
pitous, as those in the interior of Merionethshire and Carnarvonshire,
it may not be subject to those violent tornadoes and whirlwinds which
are not unfrequent in the vicinity of Snowdon and Cader Idris. As
to general appearance, this county has the advantage in this respect of
most of the other counties in the principality, as its hills slope gradu-
ally, and their surface is mostly covered with herbage. The vale of
the Severn is not only rich, but very picturesque and beautiful. The
difference in climate is so great in the mountainous districts in North
Wales, that the humidity of the atmosphere falls in rain in the vallies,
in sleet on the sides of the hills, and in snow on the highest mountains.
Montgomeryshire has been, and is still, and will continue for some
years to be, the best wooded of any county in the principality, and, of.
its size, is one of the best in the kingdom. The woods were so
abundant that, less than a century back, the fuel of a great part of the
county consisted almost entirely of the best cleft timber, but which,

within

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 285

within the last eighty years, began to be of some value, from its find-
ing its way into the navy market. The first sale was from Abertanat
Wood, on the confines of Shropshire. About the year 1750 the
woods of Povvis Castle Park, Abernant, and Trefedryd followed.
From that period the county contributed annually to the supply of
the navy and of the commerce of the nation. In the reign of Henry
the Third, the timber on the Vaenor estate was destroyed to cut off
the retreat of the Welsh ; in that of George the Third it was con-
verted to a more laudable purpose, to assist in perpetuating to our
sea-girt isle the sovereignty of the seas. The fall at Vaenor Park, in
1796, deprived the county of much of its most valuable timber, of
which the following were some of the most noted dimensions : — one
oak measured 68 inches in circumference at the height of 73 feet ;
another measured 687 cubic feet, and was valued at two shillings per
foot, exclusive of bark. On the Garth estate, near Guilsfield, some
of the finer oak forest trees were from ten to twelve feet in circum-
ference ; one in particular, in the parish of Meivod, measured 55 feet
in length, and ten feet in circumference in the middle. Montgomery-
shire abounds with common wastes, where oak trees grow naturally,
but they are perpetually kept under by the browsing of cattle, and
by poor people who cut them for fuel. Leland's observations re-
specting this county are as follow : — " All the lordships set in this
county (Montgomeryshire) be for the most part mountainous, well
wooded, and as they be used better for cattle as grass than corn ; yet
about Welsh Pool and Montgomerick is good plenty of corn."

The principal rivers are the Severn (Yr Haf-Rhen), Dovey or
Dyfi, Y Vyrnyw, Tanat, Clwedog, Banwy, Hafesp, Rhiw, Carno,
Tvvrch, Dulas, Mule, Lledan, Cain, and Marchnant. The lakes are
but small, and few in number, the principal of which are Llyn
Gwyddior, Llyn y Grinwydden, Llyn Hir, Llyn y Bugail, Llyn
Glaslyn. Llyn Bogelyn, Llyn Broniarlh in the parish of Guilsfield,
and Llyn Ddu in Powis Castle Park. The Vyrnyw and Tanat
abound with fish, the former so much that it merits the title of
Piscosus amnis. The Tanat falls into the Vyrnyw at Abertanat, and
the Vyrnyw into the Severn at a place called Y Cymmerau (" the
Conflux"), in the lower end of the parish of Guilsfield ; not far distant
from which are those picturesque rocks, distinguished by the names of
Y Vreiddin, Moel y Golfa, and Cefn y Castell. During some of
those skirmishes which the Welsh had with the English, and after
keeping watch all night near the fords of the Vyrnyw and Severn, near
the Breiddin hills, just at the dawn of day, that celebrated bard and
warrior Gwalchmai, the son of Meilir (who flourished about the year
1200), composed some beautiful lines, of which the late Rev. Richard
Williams, rector of Machynlleth, has given the following translation :

Rise, orb of day ! the eastern gates unfold,

And shew thy crimson mantle, fring'd with gold :

Contending

286 TOPOGRAPF1ICAL NOTICES.

Contending birds sing sweet on ev'ry spray,

The skies are bright, — arise, them orb of day !

I, Gwalchmai, call— in song, in war renown'd,

Who, lion-like, confusion spread around —

The live long night the Hero and the Bard,

Near Vreiddin's rocks, have kept a constant guard j—

Where cold transparent streams in murmurs glide,

And springing grass adorns the mountains' side,

Where snow-white sea mews in the current play,

Spread their gay plumes, and frolic through the day.

The riches of Montgomeryshire proceed from its sheep, wool, and
flannels, with other coarse cloth manufactured from its annual pro-
duce ; for the hills are almost entirely sheepwalks, while the farms
situate in the vallies appear only appendages for their winter habita-
tions and provisions. The manufactures were formerly collected
through the county once or twice a year, and sent to Welshpool when
in a rough state, whence they were carried to Shrewsbury, to be
finished and exported ; which traffic Dyer describes thus : —

" The Northern Cambrians, an industrious tribe,
Carry their labours on Pygmean steeds,
Of size exceeding not Leicestrian sheep,
Yet strong and sprightly : over hill and dale
They travel, unfatigued, and lay their bales
In Salop's streets, beneath whose lofty walls
Pearly Sabrina waits them will) her barks,
And spreads the swelling sheet."

(f Until within these few years (says the Rev. Walter Davies) the
only market for webs was held weekly (on Thursday) at Shrewsbury,
where they were exposed to sale in a hall belonging to the drapers of
that town, and no buyers but of that particular fraternity were ad-
mitted. In this Court of Justice the biddings of monopoly were
equal to dictatorial edicts, neither remonstrance nor appeal could be
of any use. But lately the manufacturers have had the good fortune
to have the market in their own houses, and the drapers the well-
deserved pleasure of employing buyers by commission, at about £1. 5s.
per cent, who frequently purchase the pieces before they are out of the
looms." Flannels constitute the grand and most important of the
Welsh manufactures. The texture and use of this comfortable com-
modity it is unnecessary to point out: it is chiefly the produce of
Montgomeryshire, but by no means confined to this county, being
made in various places within a circle of fifty miles round Welshpool.
Formerly flannels were manufactured by the tedious operation of the
hand, by farmers and cottagers in their houses. Of late the powerful
agency of water has been brought to their assistance, and numerous
spinning machines have been erected in Montgomeryshire. Besides
these, there are several manufactories at Welshpool, Llanidloes, New-
town, Machynlleth, Berriew, &c.

Within these few years the roads in this county have been much

improved,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 287

improved., chiefly at the expense of the landholders, by statute labour
and rates periodically levied. The Mac Adam system of reforming
rough roads has generally been adopted ; and the tonnage along the
canal has greatly relieved the roads, by materials for their repairs
being conveyed along it to a great distance. The Snowdon range of
mountains abound more in slate than the Berwyn : in the latter slates
are raised at Oernant, Glyn Ceiriog, Maengwynedd, near Cadair
Vervvyn, and Llangynog; Dinas Mowddwy, Moel Grychan, near
Aberllefeni, Gogarth, and Peniarth Uchav, between Cadair Idris
and the sea, also produce this article. Breiddin Hill, in the Severn
or Pumlumon range, is chiefly composed of a greenish serpentine :
and Moel y Golva, near it, contains some burr for mill-stones; when
these were first discovered, they were thought to be equal to
the French stones, and a medal, value £50, for such discovery, was
voted by the Society of Antiquarians to Mr. Field Evans, of Pool
Quay ; but they were at last found to be far inferior to the French,
and the work was soon totally abandoned. Further on, towards the
Long Mountain, grey lime-stone and other fossils foreign to this tract
of country appear, but they arc of a very limited continuance. The
tract about Breiddin, by the singularity of its general character,
induces many to suppose that it contains metallic ores ; lead ore has
also been raised in the other extremity of the range, near Llanidloes ;
but, upon the whole, it seems to be unpromising. Lime is carried
into this county from Forth y Waen and Llanymynech rocks, on
the confines of Shropshire, to the distance of forty miles, where it
costs the farmer from thirty to forty shillings per ton. Since the
Montgomeryshire canal has been made, lime-stone and coal are
conveyed there as far as Welsh Pool, and so on up to Newtown,
where a great number of kilns have been erected on the different
wharfs. The three counties of Montgomery, Merioneth, and Caer-
narvon have always been considered as entirely destitute of coal.
The Montgomeryshire canal, issuing out of that of Ellesmere, crosses
the Virniew at a short distance from the Llanymynech lime rocks,
upon an aqueduct of five arches, 40 feet each in span and 25 feet
above the ordinary surface of the water, exclusive of a number of
arches adjoining the aqueduct to convey off the overflowing waters in
the time of floods; from thence it proceeds along the vale of the
Severn to Welsh Pool, and as far as Garthmill ; and thence to New-
town. The chief articles imported into the county are lime-stone
and coal, and of its exports timber, grain, and the produce of the
dairy. The whole expense of forming the Montgomeryshire canal
amounted to upwards of £70,000, including the sum of £2,000
expended in making a small branch, three miles in extent, to the
pleasant village of Guilsfield. The Ellesmere canal, with which the
Montgomeryshire one is connected, opens a communication between

the

o o

288 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

the rivers Severn, Dee, and Mersey, commencing from the latter at a
place called Whitby, or Ellesmere Port. On the north side of the
Dee another branch extends to Llangollen, and to the vicinity of
Oernant slate quarries. From the end of the embankment, near the
aqueduct of Pont y Cysylltau, the main canal proceeds to the west of
the Park Du collieries, the east of Bron-y-Garth lime rocks, and
between Chirk Castle and village, to the bank of the river Ceiriog,
which, together with the dingle, it crosses upon a free-stone aqueduct
at a great elevation above the level of the plain. At this place it
quits North Wales and enters Shropshire, and having proceeded as
far as Frankton, a branch, near the same place, takes a south-western
direction to Llanymynech lime rocks, where it re-enters the county of
Denbigh, and where the property of the Ellesmere Canal company
terminates, and that of the Montgomeryshire commences. About
two miles and a half of railway have been formed from the lime rocks
at this place, for the easier conveyance of lime-stone into the boats.

Llangynog hath its church dedicated to Saint C ynog, one of the
sons of Brychan, a saint who suffered martyrdom about the end of
the fifth century. It consists of one township only, and is eight miles
N. W. from Llanfyllin. This parish is about four miles in length
and four in breadth. It lies in a pretty sequestered slip of fertile
land, enclosed on all sides by the Berwyn mountains. A little distance
from the village is a lead mine : the rock is of a coarse slate abounding
with white opaque amorphous quartz, with great quantities of lead and
calamine, both of which are sent raw to the foundries at Rhiwabon.
Two miles from Llangynog is a remarkable lead mine, discovered in the
year 1692, called Craig y Mwyn, which afforded formerly a consider-
able revenue to the Powis Castle family : it was in most parts three
yards and a half thick, and was worked to the depth of a hundred
yards, when the water became too powerful. It continued in a
flourishing state nearly forty years, yielding about four thousand tons
annually : the ore was sold at £7 per ton ; it was smelted on the spot,
and brought in a clear revenue to the family of Powis Castle of twenty
thousand pounds. There are slate quarries at Graig y Gribbin, in
this parish : the colour of the slate is blue, which is considered the
most saleable. The village of Llangynog is celebrated for delicious
trout, taken in the river Tanat, which flows through the vale of Llan-
gynog, and is enclosed by the Virniew or Berwyn mountains.

On leaving Llangynog in a south-easterly direction, at the distance
of about seven miles is

LLANVYLLIN,

a market town of considerable note, situate in a fertile vale on the
banks of the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. It was first incor-
porated by Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, in the time of Edward the First,
and its privileges were renewed by Edward de Charlton, Lord of

Powis;

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 289

Powis; Charles the Second also granted it other privileges. The
corporation consists of a high steward, recorder, two bailiffs (chosen
annually), fourteen capital burgesses, a town clerk, and two Serjeants
at arms. Many Roman coins have been found here, still the learned
contend that it was not a Roman station; saying that it was not
customary with the Britons to prefix Llan, or church, to the names of
Roman cities, but generally Caer, signifying a fort or fence: there-
fore the opinion that Mediolanum was situated here is generally dis-
believed, and that place is supposed for many reasons to have been at
Meivod. In the centre of the town stands the church (erected when
the excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese), a neat brick
building, dedicated to Saint. Myllin. It was built about the year
1706, upon the scite of the old church. The peal of bells surpasses
any in the county. Here are three endowed schools, one for twenty-
four blue coat boys, another for twelve blue-gowned girls, who are
clothed at the expense of the foundation, and a third for children, who
are not clothed. Some small waste lands were sold and enclosed,
under an act of parliament, towards defraying the expenses of building
a new town hall in 1775 : it stands in the centre of the street ; it is a
brick building erected upon arches, and the space underneath is used
as a market-place ; the public business being transacted up stairs. —
B6d Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn (late Sir Edward
Pryce Lloyd, Bart.), was once the residence of his maternal ancestors,
the Kyffins. — On the left is Llwyn, the seat of William Humffreys,
Esq. the grounds about which are tastefully laid out, and enriched
with a number of large oak, beech, and other trees.

The markets and fairs of Llanfyllin are well attended, particularly
for the purchase of Welsh merlins, which are brought here for sale in
great numbers. A few anecdotes are preserved in the neighbourhood
respecting Lord Castlemain, ambassador from James the Second to
the Pope, who, after the Revolution, resided in retirement with the
family of Price, in this town, called by the common people " Prices,
the Papists." Thomas Price, a learned correspondent of the anti-
quaries of his time, had a large collection of manuscripts, which are
supposed to have found their way into the Vatican library at Rome. —
King Charles the First slept at' Llanfyllin, Sept. 21, 1644; the next
day he dined at Brithdir, near this place, and marched from thence
through Mochnant to Cefnhirvynydd, and so along the tops of the
hills to Chirk Castle. The rest of the forces marched to Llansilin;
the day afterwards (being Tuesday) the King advanced to Chester ;
and on Wednesday, Sept, 24th, his forces were routed by the parlia-
mentary army, at Rowton Moor, near Chester.

About seven miles to the south-east of Llanfyllin is Mathraval, in
the parish of Llangyny w. The ancient seat of the Princes of Powys,
after they had been expelled from Pengwern Bowys, or Shrewsbury,

by
o o 2

290 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

by the arms of Oflfa the Mercian, was situate here, on a little eminence
near the junction of the two branches of the Virniew, at the western
extremity of the valley of Meivod. The scite and a few ruins of the
foundation are still visible; the burnt tiles used in the edifice had
protuberances in the form of the present slate pins, to fasten them to
the roof. It is said that Mervyn, the youngest son of Roderic the
Great, succeeded to the Principality of Wales in the year 877, and a
palace had been built here by the late prince. There is now a farm
house erected on the scite of the stately castle of Mathrafal, which
occupied nearly two acres, guarded on one side by the river, and on
the other by a vast rampart of stone and earth, with a deep foss, and
a high keep at one corner. The original fortress, according to the
Welsh historians, was built by Robert Vipont in the year 121 1, and
soon after besieged by Llewelyn ab lorwerth and his confederate
army ; but King John, being informed of their intention, collected an
army and marched to Mathraval, in time to raise the siege and to
prevent the Welsh possessing themselves of it. However this did not
suffice, for he immediately ordered the castle to be burned to the
ground, and then returned to England. The situation of Mathraval,
within the angle of two rapid rivers, shewed more precaution in the
founders than the more ancient Britons were generally possessed of,
who most commonly erected their forts and camps on inaccessible
rocks, never considering the necessity of water for the supply of a
garrison. But notwithstanding the convenience of water, both for use
and defence, Mathraval never could have been a place of safety for its
occupiers; as it was immediately commanded by the gently rising
grounds to the west. We have very little of it in history, as the
princes, soon after its foundation, transferred their residence to Castell
Coch ym Mhywys (now Powis Castle), about seven miles to the south
— a place much superior in every point. It is probable, however,
that the subsequent princes retained a predilection for the former seat
of their predecessors, as several of the dynasty of the Convyns, and
one even from Winchester, wrere inhumed within the walls of the
neighbouring church of Saint Mary, in Meivod. — Two British en-
campments are still entire on hills to the west and north-west, in view
of each other, which, with the castle of Mathraval, formed an equi-
lateral triangle, a mile to each line. On the opposite side of the
river, in Gwernddii wrood, may be seen a circular entrenchment, and
in the field beyond a round moat, supposed to have been a winter
station of the Romans. — The Eisteddfod, or triennial assembly of the
bards, was holden at the ro\ al palace of Mathraval in the reigns of
the ancient princes of Powis.

Meivod is one mile from Mathraval, and is said to have been the
archdeaconry of all Powysland. It is a neat well-built village, situate
in a fertile vale, in a most romantic situation, on the banks of the
Fyrnwy, or Yr Afon Gam, " the meandering stream," at the foot of a

lofty

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 291

lofty hill called Main. The churchyard is large, containing about
nine acres, in the centre of which stands its venerable church. The
present church, dedicated to Saint Mary, according to Caradoc the
Historian, was founded about the year 1153. It was apparently
built from the materials of two former churches, part of whose founda-
tions are still visible in the present .churchyard. One was dedicated
to St Gwyddfarch, an anchorite in the earliest ages of Christianity,
and who is represented, in the Genealogies of Saints, as the son of
Amalarus, a prince of Poland: the spot of his retirement at Meivod
is still called Gvvely Gwyddfarch, or " the bed of Gwyddfarch," on a
rock bearing the laame of Gallt yr Ancr, that is " the steep or rock of
the Anchorite." The second church was dedicated to Tysilio, the
son of Brochwel, Prince of Powys, a saint and writer who flourished
about the middle of the seventh century : he wrote an Ecclesiastical
History of Britain. The usual spelling of the name of this parish is
Myfod, and according to the Welsh orthography Meivod. Mai-fod
may be translated " a summer habitation," and also ." a low cham-
paign dwelling;" JVleu-fod, t( a place of appropriation or peculiar
possession ;" Ymwy-fod as " Mesopotamia," or " between rivers," or
from Meidwyfod, " an hermitage." In the twelfth .century, Cyndde-
Iw, a native of this parish, in one of his poems, describes the present
church, then newly founded, as situate between two rivers, which in
subsequent times were joined in one at the head of the vale : the
united stream is called Fyrnwy, rises near Bwlch-y-groes, and after a
changeable course, during which it is joined by the Tannat, falls into
the Severn at Cymmerau, near Llandrinio, about 12 miles below, or
east of Meivod. Mr. Thomas Pry ce, of Llanfyliin, a learned anti-
quary about the middle of the seventeenth century, in a letter to Mr.
Josiah Babington, respecting Welsh antiquities, says, that f{ Myfod
has a stronger claim to have been the Mediolanum of the Romans
than Llan-Fyllin, as asserted by Camden." He says, " Besides the
parish church now standing, I myself have seen the ruins of two
others. I have also seen the ruins of a Crefydd-dy, or ' religious
house/ Several pavements and hearths have been dug up in the
neighbouring fields ; one I know at a small distance from the village,
and the field is still called Maes-y-porth, or " the Gateway Fielid."
At a like distance is Pentre-go, " the Smithfield of Mediolanum;" it
has two lanas (if lana means a brook) ; and the Italian Mediolanum
(Milan) is watered by two channels, the Ticinus and Adder."
Meivod became the dormitory of the princes of Powys at an early
period, but how many are buried there cannot be ascertained. Dr.
Powell, in his translation of Caradoc's History, mentions only two,
Madoc ap Meredydd, an ally of Henry the Second, who died at
Winchester, A.D. 1158, in that monarch's reign, and who, having
rebuilt this church, was brought hither for interment, as was (in
1191) GrufFydd Maelor his son. The only relics of monumental

antiquity

292 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

antiquity are two silicious free-stones, at present lying flat near one of
the entrance doors, having a few years since been brought from a
corner of the church, when they had been discovered under a pew :
they have some rude sculptures in basso-relievo, though too rude to
be attributed to any of the princes. By bearing the figure of a large
sword, mistaken by some for a cross, it may naturally be supposed to
have belonged to a crusader, who had escaped the scimitar of the
Saracens in Palestine. Such antique tombstones of the twelfth and
thirteenth centuries, bearing the figures of a sword, are frequently
met with in many parts of Wales. In the township of Dyffryn is a
British encampment of some strength, on Galt-yr-Ancr, with ten
excavations cut in the solid rock to retain rain water. On Galt-y-
Main, in the township of Main, levels and shafts have been worked in
search of lead ore ; some strings of potter's ore have been found: the
rocks abound with barytes and the terra ponderosa vitriolata; and
some ancient coins have been found in this place. Nant-y-Mynach,
in this parish, is situate upon the rivulet Brogan, one of the most
meandering streams in nature, which falls into the Cain at Llanfechan.
The township of Tair-tref takes its name from the junction of the
three townships of Glascoed, Dolobran, and Bryn-bwa. In the
township of Trefnanney is Trefnanney Hall ; a gentleman's seat,
a Ijo ning to which is a British encampment, called The Gaer. There
are but few gentlemen residing on their own estates in this parish,
though there are several ancient residences, now inhabited by
respectable farmers. The vicarage house is situate on a rising
ground, commanding a fine view of the village, the vale beneath, the
wide flowing Fyrnwy, and the Broniarth hills, rearing their lofty and
frequently cloud-capped tops to the skies. In the upper part of this
parish are two mineral springs, called Clawyd Wells, which are found
efficacious in cutaneous and scrofulous disorders. Some few years
ago, iron-works and manufactories of flannels were carried on at
Dolobran to a great extent ; but the buildings, together with appara-
tuses, are now fast falling to decay. On an elevated situation is
Dolobran Hall, formerly belonging to the family of Lloyd, but now
the property of Joseph Jones, Esq. Clerk of the Peace for the
County. Charles Lloyd, Esq. banker, of Birmingham, departed
this life 16th January, 1828, aged 80 years. His father, Sampson
Lloyd, was the lineal descendant of a respectable family of great
antiquity in this county, and who were for several generations seated
at Dolobran. About the year 1662, the great-grandfather of Mr.
Lloyd attached himself to the religious body called Quakers. In
milder times his high character and connections would have protected
him from the violence directed against this sect : and his refusal to
take the oaths of supremacy and allegiance was a pretext for accusing
him of disloyalty ; his estates were subjected to a premunire, and
heavy fines were levied upon his property, and after enduring with

patience

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 293

patience and magnanimity ten years' imprisonment in Welsh Pool
gaol, during which time his noble and animating example served to
strengthen several who had embraced and suffered for the same faith,
he removed to Birmingham in the year 1701 , and engaged extensively
in the iron trade.

At the distance of about ten miles from Llanfyllin we arrive at

LLANYMYNEICH,

which is very closely connected with North Wales, on account of its
situation on the boundary, but it contains one township, Carreg
Hwva, which, although detached from it, is yet within the county of
Denbigh. The church is dedicated to Agatha, a Romish saint, and,
together with the village, stands very beautifully situated on the banks
of the Fyrnwy. In the chancel is a monument to the memory of a
wife and daughter of George Griffith, Bishop of Saint Asaph, who
had been rector of this parish whilst canon of that chapter. — The
name of Llanymyneich signifies, according to some, "the Village of
the Monks ;" but we do not find that any religious foundation was
ever established here or in the neighbourhood. The name also signi-
fies ' ' the Village of the Mines." The Montgomeryshire branch of
the Ellesmere canal passes through this parish, and crosses the
Fyrnwy at the new bridge, by an aqueduct, which was contracted for
at the sum of £4500. The range of limestone rock commences at
Llanymyneich, in an abrupt precipice 900 feet high. At present the
hill near here is valuable for the plenty of copper which it affords,
besides zinc, lead, calamine, and a quantity of limestone, sufficient to
supply the whole of this county and the greater part of Shropshire.
Its copper mines seem to have been well known to the Romans, who
for a considerable time worked them to advantage. Some Roman
coins, particularly one of Antoninus, Faustina, and others, were also
found here, with the skeleton of a man, having on his left arm a
bracelet of glass beads, like the druidical rings or beads called glain
neidr (the ova angumum of Pliny), and near it lay a battle axe. —
About fifteen years after the first discovery, other miners found several
human bones there, and a golden bracelet encircling the wrist of a
skeleton, besides burnt bones and ashes found on several parts of the
hill. On the slope of this hill, extending to the top from the bottom,
runs a stupendous rampart of loose stones, with a foss at the foot of it,
and at a small distance are two others, running parallel, cut in many
places through the solid rock. By the hill runs likewise another
rampart, called Clawdd Offa, or " Offa's Dyke," thrown up by the
King of Mercia in 763, to prevent the incursions of the Welsh* and
form their boundary, which continued so till the conquest in 1282.
On the eastern brow of the hill once stood a cromlech, measuring
seven feet by six, and about eighteen inches thick ; it is called by the
vulgar Bedd y Cawr, or " the Giant's Grave," and under it, accord-
ing

~94 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

ing to immemorial tradition, a giant's wife was buried, with a golden
torques about her neck ; and to search for this treasure, three brothers
of the name of Paine, who lived in the neighbourhood some years ago,
in the most reprehensible manner overturned the stone from its pe-
destal, and it has since remained prostrate.

In Llanymynech Hill, on the western borders of Shropshire, is a
considerable excavation, vulgarly called the Ogo (from the Welsh
Ogof, a cave), supposed to have been an ancient mine of the Romans,
as very numerous coins of that people are frequently found there. It
is now seldom explored farther than the mouth, which is of consider-
able extent, dark, and dismal, the entrance overhung with the stump
and branches of a wycli elm, and great fragments have in many
places fallen from the roof. Superstition, ever given to people dark-
ness with the progeny of imagination, has assigned inhabitants here,
such as knockers, goblins, and ghosts ; and the surrounding peasantry
aver, with inflexible credulity, that the aerial harmonies of fairies are
frequently heard in the deep recesses. Some years ago, all the
passages of this subterraneous labyrinth were carefully explored to
their extent by J. F. M. Dovaston, Esq. of West Felton. The
entrance for about 15 yards is high, but afterwards a person must
stoop very low, and sometimes even crawl. It contains many sinuosi-
ties, sometimes but a yard and generally about three yards wide,
having many turnings and passages connected with each other, so
that a ball of thread or chalk is necessary for the greater facility of
return. None of the paths go more than 200 yards from the places
of entry. Great quantities of human bones are found in many parts,
particularly where the cavern becomes wide and lofty. This renders
it probable that it has subsequent to the Romans become either a
place of refuge in battle or a depository for the dead. The passages
are cut through the rock, which is of red lime-stone, whereon
frequently appear the marks of chisels, and doubtless it has
originally been a ramification of rich veins of ore; for every where
appear

• — — — — fl the inner vaults of this rude cavern,

Green with ttie copper tinge, where pendant glisten
Curdled stalactites, like frozen snakes,
Where leathery crust, and vegetable film,
Hoar with their fuugous fringe the dripping roof."

Long passages frequently terminate in small holes about the size to
admit a man's arm, as if the metal ran in strings and had been
picked out quite clean with hammers and long chisels as far as they
could reach. The water that drops in some parts of this cave is of a
petrifying quality, and forms stalactites resembling very long icicles,
which on being touched ring with a brilliant sound; and the drops of
water hanging on the point of each catch the light of the candle, and
give the surrounding space a glittering illumination extremely
beautiful and in a variety of colours. One finger bone with a ring

upon

TOPOGKAPHICAL NOTICES. 295

upon it was brought away : and about 1750 some miners discovered
several human skeletons entire, with culinary vessels, hatchets, and
many Roman coins ; one had on a bracelet of glass beads, and another
a very curious battle-axe beneath his arm; and in a cave at some little
distance were found the bones of a man, woman, and child, a dog,
and a cat. Tradition says this labyrinth communicated, by subterra-
neous paths, with Carreghova Castle; and some persons aver that
they have gone into it so far as to hear the rivers Fyrnwy and Tanat
rolling over their heads, and that it leads down to fairy-land. Mr.
Dovaston, however, threaded every passage, and marked each with
chalk, except one that was so full of deep water that he could not get
his head between the surface and the roof. It is probable that this
mine was wrought before the year 790, when the Clawdd Oflfa was
made; for that ditch proceeds from the passage through the hill
called Porth-y-Waen, along the brow or summit of these rocks to a
place called Bvvlch Mawr (the great notch) ; in that place the dyke
leaves its direction on the verge opposite Blodwel Hall, and turns
from a southward course to eastward, and fences the south end of the
hill in which this copper mine lay to the Welsh side ; and it seems
that a battle has been fought here in disputing for this mine, or that
the very large intrenchments (of which there are three) that run
parallel with that of Clawdd Offa eastwardly were made to defend
this rich and valuable mine. Persons desirous of gratifying their
sight would do well and wisely to ascend from the mouth of the Ogo
up to these ridges, immediately over Blodwel Hall, where, suddenly
finding themselves on the precipitous rocks of Blodwel, a scene of
absolute sublimity and beauty opens at once on the astonished and
delightful gaze, perhaps unparalleled, certainly unsurpassed, in all
Wales : the summits of innumerable mountains are seen at once
rising in every variety of ridge, the distant in softest azure and the
near in the most brilliant verdure, with hanging woods, fertile mea-
dows, and the bright rivers Fyrnwy and Tanat uniting in the valley
below, and sweeping their sunny waters to join the Severn, under the
abrupt and bold rocks of the magnificent Breiddyn. Turning towards
England, a perfect contrast is presented in the flat, fertile, and
expansive plain of Shropshire, richly wooded, and profuse in luxurious
vegetation, terminated by the noble Wrekin and the faintly feeble
outline of the very distant hills of Cheshire and Stafford. The
scene all around may be safely averred to be one that the dullest mind
cannot view without excitement, nor the finest without rapturous and
highly increased elevation. On the same hill, and a little below this
point of prospect, is the cromlech called the Giant's Grave, before
mentioned. On the north-east end are four large stones, which
formerly supported on their points a fine flat stone in form of a
brandart, called in Welsh " trwbad ;" but they are now thrown down.
Towards the south-west proceed two rows of flat stones, parallel, six

feet

206 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

feet asunder and thirty-six in length. On digging here a druid's
belt was found, and several other things, also human bones with the
teeth perfect. Between the parallel stones a stratum of rude earth
was cut through about an inch thick, and being cast on the bank
some dogs present eat of it freely : it had the appearance of mummy,
and smelt fetid. From the summits above may be seen the small but
graceful lake of Llynckllys (sunk palace), the fine and venerable tower
of Oswestry church, and in the distance the column and elegant
spires of Shrewsbury.

About two miles north of Llanymyneich, on the banks of the
Fyrnwy, once stood the castle of Carreg Hwfa, of which no vestige
remains except the foss on the east. There is but little account of
this place in history, except that in the year 1 1 62 it was taken and
despoiled by two cousins-german. Owain Cyveiliog and Owain ap
Madoc ; it continued in possession of the latter twenty-five years,
when he was besieged in it and slain in the night by Gwenwynwyn
and Caswallon, sons of Owain Cyveiliog, his former colleague in
plunder and devastation. Within half a mile of the castle lies
Gwern y vigin, where a battle was fought about the year 1202. To
the south-east is Llwyn y Groes, the seat of John Evans, Esq. M. D.
the principal resident proprietor in the parish, and son of the worthy
and ingenious author of the Map of North Wales, which, for correct-
ness and elegance, has transmitted, with honour his name to posterity.
To the south-west lies Carreg Hwva Hall, formerly the country seat
of Sir Thomas Jones, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, and M. P.
for Shrewsbury in 1660, and now (1830) the property of Sir T. J.
Tyrwhitt Jones, Bart, who has a considerable estate in this parish. —
Further to the south-west, on the confines of the parish, is Pentre
Heilyn, formerly the seat of the Heilyns, who took this for their
cognomen, from their being hereditary cupbearers to the princes of
Powis. It seems they were also pursebearers and ministers of finance,
and their extravagance of the public money gave rise to the proverb —
Hael Heilyn o god y wlad — ff Heilyn is generous out of the public
purse." In the family of Heilyn there were three that will not dis-
grace our Cambrian biography. The first was Grono ap Heilyn,
chosen by the last Llewelyn to treat with the commissioners of
Edward Longshanks for concluding a final peace; which was done,
and the terms observed for a while, until the oppression of the Eng-
lish became no longer tolerable. Thus driven to the last extremity,
despair strung Cambria's bow : Snowdon re-echoed with " Death
or Freedom :" its lord fell by the hands of an assassin, and with him
expired liberty. The second was Rowland Heilyn, alderman and
sheriff of London, who dying in the year 1684 without male issue,
one of his daughters marrying a Congreve, the estate was transferred
to that family. This Rowland Heilyn was a man of singular good-
ness : he caused the Welsh Bible to be printed at his own charge, in

a portable

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 297

a portable volume, for the benefit of his countrymen, which was before
only to be had in a large church folio. He also published the
Practice of Piety, in Welsh, and a Welsh Dictionary. The third
was Dr. Peter Heilyn, nephew to the above-mentioned Rowland.
The doctor's name and works are so well known that we may say no
more respecting him, but that he died in the year 1662.

Under the western brow of this hill lies Abertanat, formerly the
seat of the family of Tanat, who adopted their name from the river
Tanat, which falls into the Fyrnwy near their seat at Abertanat, for
the same reason that the Mostyns, the Glynns, Erddigs, Stanleys, &c.
&c. did, namely, to save the redundancy of aps. From the Tanads
the Abertanad estate descended to the Godolphins of Godolphin
(Coed-Dolffin), in Cornwall. — A little farther towards the north
stands Blodwel, formerly a frequent bardic theme when the residence
of Gwervul Hael. It is now the property of the Earl of Bradford.

On the road from Welshpool to Machynlleth, at the distance of
about three miles and a half from the former place, we pass on our
left the village of Castell Caereineon, in a romantic situation between
lofty hills. The parish and commot are supposed by some to have
been so denominated from Eineon Urdd (or Yrth), tenth son of
Cuiiedda Wledig, King of Cambria, who founded Oswestry in 567 ;
others supposed it to be so called from Eineon Evell, son of Madog
ap Meredydd, Prince of Powis, who built a castle here A. D. 1155,
on the site of Eineon's camp, which castle was burnt by Owen Cy-
veiliog in 1166, and not a vestige of which is now to be seen. It
stood on an eminence near the village. The church is dedicated to
Saint Garmon or Saint Germain, one of the most distinguished of the
British saints.-— Dolarddyn, where Henry the Seventh is said to have
lodged a night, is in this parish ; and in the township of Trefnant
there is a British encampment.

About four miles further we arrive at Llanvair Caereineon, or Llan
Fair yn nghaer Eineon, a small market town, pleasantly situated
between hills on the banks of the river Vyrnwy. The finny tribes
afford considerable profit and amusement to the inhabitants, who are
peculiarly dexterous in the use of the spear and harpoon. The town
itself contains nothing very interesting, except the church, dedicated
to Saint Mary, which is rather an antique edifice. The market house
is tolerably handsome for a structure chiefly composed of wood, and
is situate in the centre of the street. The town has within a few years
past undergone considerable improvements. There is a well near the
church, deemed efficacious in scorbutic complaints.

About five miles from Llanfair is Llanervul, having its church
dedicated to Ervul or Ervil, a female saint, whose history is not
known. A farm, now let for about £40 a-year, was left by a lady
descended from the Herberts of Llysyn, towards the support of a
school; in which the poor children of the parish are taught to read

and

298 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

and write. The ancient chapel at Dolwen is now in ruins. The
saint's feast-day or wake (Dydd Gwyl Urvul Santes) used to be cele-
brated on the Sunday following the Gth of July. Gutto'r Glynn, a
poet of the fifteenth century, in his elegy to the memory of Gwervul
Hael of Blodvoel, commemorates this female saint in lines of which
the following are a translation : —

Next to Gwervul of Gwynva, and Urvul the good,
Stands Gwervul of Blodvoel in prudence and blood.

Urvul is supposed by some writers to be the same as Ursul or Ursula,
daughter of the Duke of Cornwall. There is a stone monument in
the church-yard, which is supposed by some to have been erected to
her memory, but what remains of the inscription does not support
this conjecture. It. is as follows: HIC IN TUMULO JACIT
R—STE-CE FILIA PATERNINI IXIII. IN PA. In
AchaiCr Bonedd y Saint we meet with Padarn ap Pesrwm (or,
according to others, ap Peredur) ap Emyr Llydaw, who was cousin to
Cadvan. On the Drum mountain, in this parish, are three pools, viz.
Llynn y Grinwydden, having no fish except eels ; Llynn Hir, contain-
ing excellent red trout ; Llynn Gwyddior. or Cadivor, which formerly
contained an abundance of fine trout, but a gamekeeper having thrown
pike into it, the trout are considerably diminished in number. The
lastmentioned lake is on the borders of the parish of Llanbrynmair.
A company of adventurers, in the year 1797, began to sink for coals
at Govylchau, in this parish, but they were unsuccessful. About the
same time a few specimens of copper were dug up at Coed Talog.
At Craig y Go, in the same neighbourhood, are ancient traces of
mines, supposed to be of Roman origin ; and not far off, facing Llan-
mihangel, is a cave called Ogov Dolanog, which is so narrow that a
man cannot go far into it. — Mr. William Jones, a native of Llangadvan,
in his History of the Three Parishes of Gartlibeibio, Llangadvan,
and Llanervul, already mentioned, informs us, that near Pont y
Llogel there are two earns or carneddau, of different dimensions ;
the larger one about sixty feet in diameter : the greater part of it was
carried off to build Llwydiarth park wall: and the workmen disco-
vered a stone chest (cistvaen) placed in the centre of the heap, which,
when opened, was found to contain only pieces of burnt bones and
ashes. About a dozen more earns, each from fliirty to sixty yards in
circumference, are to be met with in these parishes, besides a great
number of smaller ones. Some of them are covered with earth, such
as those at Nant-bran and near Tygwyn, in Llanervul. Some also
are conical, like that at Bwlch y Veden. On a hill near Llanervul is
a fortified eminence, called Gardden, a diminutive of Garth, a pro-
jecting hill or promontory, where armies generally made intrench-
ments : this is a circular rampart, inclosing an area of about seventy
yards in diameter. A smaller one stands on Moelfeliarth ; one also

in

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 299

in the township of Maes Llemysten, on the top of a precipice. On
the summit of Moparth is a large ditch, and another crosses the Vale
of Banwy, near Rhos y Gall. The most ancient mansion house in
this parish is Neuadd Wen : at one time it was the seat of Meredydd
ap Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of Powis,
and was termed Lord of Rhiw-Hirieth, Coed Talog, and Neuadd
Wen. Adjoining Neuadd Wen (formerly called Llys Wgan) lies
the capital farm of Llysyn, at one time the estate of leuan ap Bedo
Gwyn. This property, and other lands in the vicinity, were purchased
by the Herberts, Lords of Chirbury, and made the residence of some
branches of that family, ancestors of the late Earl of Powis. The
word Llysyn seems to be a contraction of Llys-dyddyn, " the Court
Farm ;" manor courts having been probably held there. The Her-
berts, when they settled there, formed a park, which they enclosed
writh pales, but which has since been destroyed. There is a well near
the church, called Ffynnon Ervul, which is arched over, with a chan-
nel to convey the water to a spout.

After passing over a newly-erected bridge, and at the distance of
a little more than a mile, we reach Cann Office, a single public-house,
which tradition says had its name from Cannon's Office; for in the
time of Cromwell cannon were planted before the house, and there
are still remaining marks of intrenchments, on which trees are now
planted. Behind the house is a barrow, seemingly of great antiquity,
flat on the top, under which the body of some chieftain is supposed
to be buried. Several copper tools have been discovered here and in
its vicinity. Near this place, on an elevated situation, is Llangadvan,
having its church dedicated to St. Cadvan. " The rectory or glebe-
house," says Mr. William Jones, " was burnt down by the rebels
when Vavasor Powell came to sequester the benefices of the clergy in
Montgomeryshire, about the year 1645, and has never since been
rebuilt." Since Mr. Jones wrote his historical work of this parish,
however, a new parsonage-house has been built here. There has
been a small abbey in the township of Cyffin, in this parish, but
whether it was independent or the abbot was a suffragan to the
Cistercian Abbey of Strata Marcel! ae is now uncertain. The town-
ships of Cevn-Llys-ucha, in Llanerful, and Tir-y-Myneich, in Llan-
brynmair, belonged to this monastery. After its dissolution they
became the property of the Vaughans of Llwydiarth, by a marriage
with one of the Purcells of Nantcribba. It stood at a place called
Caermyneich, but there are no remains of it at present. Probably
the building was constructed entirely of timber (which was not
uncommon in those days, when the country was one huge forest), and
might have been burnt down or removed at the time of the Reforma-
tion. A ford below it, on the river Fyrnwy, is called Rhyd-y-Byde,
probably Rhyd-yr-Abadau, " Abbotsford.*" It is conjectured that
the other townships, viz. Cyffin, Cawndd, and Maes-Llemysten

might

300 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

might have had their own separate chapels-of-ease, or mass-houses,
which in all likelihood were served by the monks from the abbey.
Near Ffynnon-Gadvan the Saint's Well was lately to be seen, with a
heap of large stones, supposed to be the ruins of a building at one
time erected over it.

After travelling a short distance along a pleasant road on the
banks of the river, we come to Garthbeibio, having a small church
on the right, situated on the side of a hill : the church is dedicated to
Tydecho, a saint who flourished about the close of the fifth and
beginning of the sixth century. The parish consists of only one
township, which is situate between the rivers Twrch and Banwy.
Tydecho is said to have been one of the sons of Amwn or Annyn
Ddu ap Emyr Llydaw, and to have come over from Armorica with
his cousin Cadvan : his feast is observed on Easter Monday. One of
the incredible fictions related respecting him was, that a brook called
Llaethnant (the source of the river Dovey) was by him converted into
milk for the use of the poor ; in commemoration of which miracle it
still bears the name of Llaethnant, " the Milk -stream." The parish
derives its name from Garth, " an encampment," and Peibio, " a
chieftain," whose history is now lost. The stream of the Twrch and
Banwy unite at a small distance below the church. In this parish is
a spring of cold water, called Ffynnon Tydecho, supposed to be
efficacious in rheumatic and other disorders ; and formerly every one
who either bathed in or drank of the water dropped a pin into the
well, and it was accounted sacrilege to take any of the pins away.

The next village we come to is

MALLWYD, OR MAENLLWYD,

" the Greystone or Rock," partly in Merionethshire and partly in
Montgomeryshire. The church is dedicated to Saint Tydecho.
The saint's legend, above noticed, is beautifully given by Davydd
Llwyd ap Llewelyn ap Gruflfydd, Lord of Mathafarn (on the banks of
the Dovey), who was very serviceable to Henry the Seventh, having
by his writings induced many thousands of his countrymen to resort
to the standard of Sir Rhys ap Thomas, and join Henry, then Earl of
Richmond, at Milford : it is said that Henry slept a night at his
house on his way to Bosworth Field. The legend, as related by the
bard, is as follows : — He informs us that Tydecho had been an
abbot in Armorica, and came over to Britain in the time of King
Arthur ; but after the death of that hero, when the Saxons overran
most part of the kingdom, the saint retired to this spot, and led a
most austere life, lying on the bare stones, and wearing a shirt of
hair; yet he employed his time usefully, was a cultivator of the
ground, and used hospitality. Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, then a
youth, took possession of the saint's oxen, and carried them from the
team ; next day wild stags were seen performing their office, and a

grey

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 301

grey wolf bar row ing after them. Maelgwyn, enraged at this, brought
his milk-white dogs to chase the deer, while he sat on a blue stone
to enjoy the diversion; but when he attempted to rise he found him-
self immovable and fixed to the rock, so that he was under the
necessity of beseeching the saint's pardon, who, on proper reparation
being made to him, was so kind as to liberate him from his unpleasant
confinement. Thus far the legend. It is not improbable that
Maelgwyn Gwynedd was prevailed upon, at the solicitation of the
saint, to grant this place, and perhaps some of the other churches
dedicated to him, certain privileges, such as sanctuary for man and
beast, as every offender, however criminal, was sure to find protection
here; it was always exempted from all punishment for fighting,
burning, and killing. The lands of Tydecho were likewise exempt
from mortuaries, claims, and oppression. This village is small, and
situate in the vale of Dovey. In Cae Gwyn is a well, noted for its
efficacy in complaints of the eyes. The church is remarkable for
having the altar in the middle it : this has been its situation most
probably ever since the erection of the building, but why it was so
placed cannot at this distance of time be ascertained. It was
removed to the east end by one of the rectors, but. it was taken to
its old situation by Dr. Davies, author of the Dictionary, then
incumbent, in opposition to the orders of Archbishop Laud. Dr.
Davies was a profound scholar, and assisted Bishop Parry (his
brother-in-law) in the translation of the folio Welsh Bible, published
in 1620: he died in the year 1644, and was buried in the church.
Dr. Davies was the son of a weaver, of the parish of Llanferres, in
Denbighshire, of the tribe of Marchudd, and brought up under
Bishop Parry in the school at Ruthin, and was afterwards his chap-
lain. In addition to his Welsh Grammar and Dictionary, he
translated the Thirty-nine Articles, and Parsons's (the Jesuit) Reso-
lution into elegant Welsh prose. He built three public bridges at his
own charge, and did other charities at Mallwyd, where he resided.
Dr. Davies was an useful magistrate, and universally beloved and
esteemed. Thomas ap William, the Physician, who lived at Trefriw,
near Llanrwst, had begun the Welsh and Latin Dictionary, which Dr.
Davies, at the request ofthe Gwydir family, completed and published.
In the churchyard of Mallwyd is a yew-tree, that tradition says is
above 700 years old; and it is not easy to imagine a spot where a
yew-tree could have witnessed fewer vicissitudes in the objects around
during that length of time. The rivers, the rocks, and the mountains
are immutable ; the woods are the lineal descendants of those that
flourished when the yew was planted; and the houses, probably,
differ little in number. This yew-tree has nine distinct trunks, one
in the centre and eight that surround it, and the circumference of
their united branches is computed at upwards of two hundred feet.

A short

302 TOPOGRAPHIC AT, NOTICES.

A short distance further, we pass through the village of Cemmaes :
it is pleasantly situated on the south of the Dovey, on the great road
from Bala to Machynlleth. About one-third of the land of this
parish is waste or common, and is claimed by the landed proprietors
as sheepwalks.

Going towards Machynlleth, on our right, we pass Llanwrin.
The village is situate on the north side of the river Dovey, and is the
only parish on that side within the county of Montgomery: it is about
three miles from Machynlleth, and contains about 2000 acres of
enclosed and cultivated land, and as many or more uninclosed and
uncultivated. Mathafarn, the seat of Davy dd Llwyd ap Llewelyn ap
Gruflfydd, the bard and seer before noticed, who flourished from
1470 to 1490, is on the banks of the Dovey, iu this parish. The
Earl of Richmond, in his march from Milford, it is already stated,
lodged one night with his friend Llwyd at Mathavarn: in his
anxiety for the issue of his hazardous enterprize, he privately
requested the opinion of his host, who was esteemed by his contem-
poraries as a most distinguished prophet. The seer is said to have
cautiously replied, that a question of such importance could not be
immediately answered, and that he would give his reply in the
morning. He was greatly perplexed by the question, and his wife
observed an unusual and inexplicable gravity in his manner during
the remainder of the evening: she enquired into the cause, and
upon being informed, she exclaimed, with much astonishment,
" How can you possibly have any difficulty about your answer ? Tell
him that the issue of his enterprize will be most successful and
glorious. If your prediction be verified, you will receive honours
and rewards ; but if it fails, depend upon it, he will never come here
to reproach you." In November, 1644, the Parliamentary forces
burnt Mathafarn, and reduced this part of the county to subjection to
the Commonwealth, or the protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. About
the same time, a military force visited Bala, Dolgellau, Towyn,
Merioneth, &c. Mathavarn is now the property of Sir Watkin
Williams Wynn, Bart.

Penegos hath its church dedicated to Saint Cadvarch, who
flourished about the middle of the sixth century : it is situate on an
eminence. This parish is long and narrow, and very mountainous :
in a small field near the church there is a spring, which is esteemed
very efficacious in rheumatic complaints. In the mountains of
Dylifau and Esgair-Galed lead ore is found. According to tradition,
this parish derives its name from a petty prince in Wales called
Egwest, who was beheaded near the church; but this evidently
appears to be a Monkish legend. The name at one time was
probably Pen-y-Groes, " the Hill of the Cross."
At the distance of a mile and half we come to

MACHYNLLETH,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES, 303

MACHYNLLETH,

having its church (lately rebuilt) dedicated to Saint Peter. The
town is well built, and preferable in that respect to most in North
Wales, the streets being wide and spacious : it is situate about a
quarter of a mile from the river Dovey, and about two miles from
the shipping port of Dervven Las. It is supposed to have been the
Maglona of the Romans, and where, in the name of Honorius, a
lieutenant was stationed to awe the mountaineers. On the high-
est part of the hill was the main fort, built in a quadrangular
form, and encompassed with a strong wall and broad ditch of an oval
form, excepting towards the valley, where it extended in a direct
line. On the outside of the river Dovey the foundation of many
houses may be discovered, and on a low mount stood a small fort,
supposed to have been built of bricks, from the number found at
different times. Alt the outward walls were built of a rough hard
stone, carried thither by water from Tal-y-Gareg, distant about seven
miles. From the fort to the water side is a hard broad way of peb-
bles and other stones, continued in straight lines through the mea-
dows and marshy grounds for 200 yards in length, and twelve broad.
This fort is thought to have been destroyed previous to the building
of Pen-yr-allt church, as we find in the walls of that building several
bricks mixed with the stones. Some silver coins of Augustus and
Tiberius have been found near the main fort. Owain Glyndwr
summoned a parliament at Machynlleth at the close of the year 1402,
wherein he was formally inaugurated Sovereign of Wales; and an
old house, now divided into several tenements, is shewn as being that
in which the parliament was holden. One of those who attended this
assembly was Davvdd Gam, a chieftain of the county of Brecknock,
who came with a design of murdering Owain : his plot being disco-
vered, he was put in prison, but was soon liberated, through the
interest of his friends and the promise of future fidelity : this,
however, he broke, and in revenge Owain ravaged his land. In the
reign of Henry the Fifth this Davydd Gam attended that monarch in
his French expedition, and took a signal part in the celebrated battle
of Agincourt. Having been employed to reconnoitre the enemy, he
reported that there were enow to be killed, enow to be taken prisoners,
and enow to run away. He was killed in bravely defending his
sovereign at a time when he was in great personal danger : but was
knighted on the field before he expired. levan Llawdden, an
eminent poet, ^ of the vale of Llychwr, in the county of Caermarthen,
and who flourished from 1430 to 1470, spent a great part of his life as
minister of the church of Machynlleth. In his old age he retired to
the place of his nativity, where he died. Llywarch Hen, the princely
and aged bard, having lost all his sons and friends in the wars with
the Saxons, retired to a hut at Aber Ciog, now called D<6l-Giog, near

this
p p

304 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

this town, to soothe with his harp the remembrance of his misfor-
tunes, and vent in elegiac numbers the sorrows of his old age.
Being, from princely eminence, reduced to a state of poverty and
distress, he is said to have died there at the great age of 150 years,
about the year 6*34, and to have been buried at Llanfawr, near Bala,
in the county of Merioneth, where, in the west window of the church,
is a stone with a suitable inscription. His poems were published in
London in 1792, by Dr. W. O. Pughe. The late Rev. Dr. Davies,
Head-Master of the Macclesfield Free Grammar School, was a naiive
of this town. Howel Swrdwal, an excellent Welsh bard, was minister
hereabout A. D. 1450. The proper pronunciation of this place is
Man-cyn-llaith, " the place at the upper end of the flat or low
land." '

On our return to Llanfair, we proceed south-westerly about four
miles, and come to Llanllugan, probably Llan Lleiain, " the Nun's
Church," where there was a nunnery of the Cistercian order, founded
about the year 1239. There are no remains of the nunnery at
present, except some painted glass now placed in the chancel window
of the church. The tithes of several neighbouring parishes were
appropriated to its support.

WELSH POOL, OR, Y TRALLWNG,

is a large and populous town, and the appearance of opulence is very
predominant throughout the place, perhaps owing to the trade in
Welsh flannels, which is carried on here to a very great extent : it
may be truly said that the corner stones whereon its prosperity is
founded are the flannel trade and the canal. In the centre of its
principal street is the new town and county hall, erected by subscrip-
tion of the landed interest of the county, assisted by a donation from
the corporation of nearly four hundred pounds. It was erected in the
bailiwick of the late Richard Tudor, of Garth, and Law ton Parry, of
this town, Esqrs. about the year 1796: above stairs are apartments
for public business, and for the flannel market, held every other
Thursday; below are the courts for the distribution of justice, in
which the assizes for the county are held twice a year, also the special
sessions for the borough ; and a court of record for the recovery of
debts is held every other Tuesday. It has an elegant front, with
colonnades and pilasters of stone, the whole forming an ornament to
the town, and exhibiting a proof of the liberality and spirit of the
county. In the court are the royal arms and a time-piece, the gift of
the late Richard Edmunds, Esq. of Chancery Lane, London, and of
Edderton House, in the parish of Forden, in this county. The build-
ing was greatly enlarged at the expense of the corporation in the year
1324, when, in the September of that year, the Powis Eisteddfod, a
grand musical meeting, was held here, under the patronage of Lord
Clive, on which occasion the musical and poetical talents of the prin-
cipality

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 305

cipality were called forth, as in olden time, and the flower of the
English vocal and instrumental performers gathered around him.
Powis Castle and its dependencies were on this occasion most hospita-
bly and liberally opened for the reception of numbers of noble and distin-
guished persons, who, attracted by the performances,came from all parts
of the united kingdom, and gave an additional brilliance and interest to
an event so truly worthy of Cambria's royal ages. The zeal and
anxiety which Lord Clive exhibits for the prosperity and happiness of
the principality, and for the restoration of its ancient taste and gran-
deur, were eminently conspicuous in the management of the Eistedd-
fod, one of those princely and patriotic occasions on which persons of
superior rank and influence become still more elevated: since, in
benefiting all around them, they cannot fail to add appropriate lustre
to their own character and fame. The church of Welsh Pool,
dedicated to Saint Mary, is a gothic structure, erected on the site of
the old church about the year 1774, singularly sittuated on a hill,
supported by a strong wall fifteen feet high. It is curious to observe,
that in the summer months this wall is covered with the choicest
flowers of nature — the admiration of all travellers. Part of the
church-yard is called the Judge's Hill, from one of the Welsh judges
(who died when on the Chester circuit) being buried here; this part
of the church-yard is nearly on a level with the roof of the church.
The church has, amongst its ornaments, a beautiful chalice of pure
gold, containing the measure of a wine quart, with a Latin inscription
indicating it to be the gift of Thomas Davies, Esq. in the year 166*2,
who held the office of Governor-General of all the English Colonies
on the West Coast of Africa. This chalice is formed of guinea-gold
to the value of £168, bestowed upon this church as a sacred and
grateful offering to God for his preservation in that obnoxious climate.
There is a new organ, the gift of Lord Clive. In the chancel, under
the communion table, is the vault of the noble family of Powis ; and
an ivy tree grows from the top of this lofty building down to the
bottom. Near the church, which, with the church-yard, has recently
been much improved, is the newly-erected vicarage. In the principal
street stands the public record office, where the records of the county
are kept ; and from the bottom of the principal street to the river
Severn is a beautiful wide public road, lined on each side with elm
trees, planted about forty years ago. On the left is a large mound
planted with large and venerable trees, supposed to have been the
burial-place of some chieftain. Tradition says that the old town
stood below the present church on the Salop road; and this is
generally believed, as several persons who, within these few years
back, were employed in cutting the foundations of some new houses
near the canal, found a great quantity of human bones, supposed to
have been the burial place, and a little lower down, on the left-hand

of
p p 2

306 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of the road, a regular pavement, similar to a street, was about the
same time discovered.

When Cromwell destroyed this town and Oswestry by fire, jn one
day, it must have been chiefly, if not entirely, built of wood ; for in
those days the country was so full of large timber that the best and
most clefty was used in building. The precincts of the borough
include the out-skirts of several of the neighbouring parishes. It is
governed by two Bailiffs (who act as Magistrates, and are chosen
annually), a Recorder, a Town Clerk, and has two Serjeants at Mace.
The maces carried by the latter when in attendance on the Magistrates
are the gift of Edward Vaughan, of Llwydiarth, Esq. some of the
members of which family formerly represented the county. It would
seem from ancient records, that this town has, from a very early
period, been an English settlement ; as, in the corporation charters,
grants of various lands are observed to have been made to the inhabit-
ants for their fidelity to the Kings of England, especially in the
troublesome times of Edward the First. The names of many, and
language of most, of the inhabitants are, indeed, pure English to this
day : whilst, a few miles above, the Welsh language is universal.
William Morgan, D.D. the eminent Divine, was Vicar of the parish,
afterwards he had Llan Rhaiadar Mochnant, then he was made
Bishop of Llandaffin 1595, and was translated to St. Asaph in 1601,
where he died in 1604. He had the principal hand in the translation
of the Welsh Bible which was printed in 1588. This edition was
revised by Richard Parry, D.D. Lord Bishop of St. Asaph, in 1604,
corrected by Dr. John Davies, his Chaplain, and reprinted in 1620,
and is the version now used, with some slight variations. Morgan
was of the tribe of Nefydd hardd, or the handsome. About half a
mile from the town, the Severn continues to increase its importance,
and is navigable for small barges at Pool Quay, three miles from the
town, where it is joined by a rivulet called Gleddin ; from thence,
taking its direction northwards, receiving in its course Vyrnwy and
Tannat, it empties itself into the channel below Bristol, two hundred
miles from Welsh Pool. Independent of this conveyance, a canal is
made which joins the Ellesmere, passing through Llanymynech,
Pool, and Berriew, to Newtown.

" Welsh Pool," says Mr. Pennant, " is a good town, and is seated
in a bottom not far from the castle." This place owned the same
lord as the castle. GrufFydd did homage for the lordship of Powys
at Chester (in 1355) to Edward Prince of Wales, by the title of Lord
of Pool : his title was also Frenchified into De la Pole:' " Betwixt
the town and Castell Coch," observes Leland, " is a pretty llyn or
pool, whereof the town taketh its name," viz. Tre'r Llyn, " the Pool
Town." Along a pleasant road, one mile from hence, is Castell Coch,
or Powys Castle, or Castell Coch yn Mhowys, formerly the chief
mansion of the Convinian Welsh princes of Powys; from them it

went,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 307

went, by marriage with the last Welsh heiress, Hawys Gadarn, to the
Charltons of Apley ; from them (by marriage) to the Greys ; and
from the Greys (by 'sale) to the Herberts, in the possession of whose
descendants it still remains. This mansion is of very ancient origin :
Blethyn ap Convyn is said to have founded it about the year 1 108, in
the reign of Henry the First ; it is called " Red Castle," from the
colour of the material used in its original structure. The castle has
recently undergone external and internal improvements at great
expense, the front thereof having been considerably raised and several
new rooms added. The furniture in several of the rooms is in the
ancient style of elegance, and in some of them the antique tapestry is
yet remaining. In a detached building, more modern than the castle,
is a collection of 60 or 70 pictures. Some of these are by the first
masters, as Poussin, Claude, Bassano, \Veiger, Canaletti, Cuyp,
&c. ; the Virgin and Child, by Carlo Dolce ; three Owls, by Rubens;
and an ancient painting in fresco, from the ruined city of Pompeii;
also the portrait of the late Lord Clive, by Dance. In an adjoining
closet is the model of an elephant, covered with a coat of mail, with
two Indians upon its back, brought from India by the present Earl of
Powys. In the centre of the building, through a small court, is a
covered walk, supported by four or five pillars : opposite, on entering,
is a figure of Hercules, and on the left a handsome staircase, whose
walls and ceiling were painted by Lanscrome in 1705. The ceiling
represents the coronation of Queen Anne; the figures are well formed,
particularly a horse and a man in armour. The walls are mytholo-
gical ad allegorical, consisting of the figures of Neptune, Amphitrite,
Apollo, Venus, Poetry, Painting, Music, Dorcas cutting the Thread
of Life, &c. &e. At the bottom of the staircase is a curious marble
figure of Cybele sitting and holding a Globe, and is about three feet
high, placed on a pedestal of the same height, brought from the ruins
of Herculaneum. On the upper part of the staircase is painted the
figure of Aurora, by the same artist. On the left-hand is a small
parlour; on the right a room, with the pictures of Saint Catherine
receiving the ring from Christ, and Sampson betrayed by the Philis-
tines, both excellent paintings. Above stairs, in the tapestry room,
over the door, is a fine painting of Cleopatra dissolving the Pearl ;
and another, well executed, of Venus and Cupid; also a Salutation,
very fine, and said to have cost 500 guineas. The tapestries of the
sexagon bed-chamber represent several parts of Nebuchadnezzar's
life. Here is also a noble gallery, 117 feet by 20 ; in the window of
which is an elegant inlaid marble table, very large, representing
birds, &c. also busts of the twelve Caesars, brought from Italy,
larger than life, the vests of composite marble of a yellowish cast;
besides a curious copper bust of the famous Lord Herbert of Chir '-
bury. Out of the gallery is a state room, intended for King Charles,
whose ciphers are in gold letters in the doors and window panels;

but

308* TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

but the state bed, having gone to decay, has been removed. In the
drawing room, which is of considerable dimensions, is a handsome
ceiling of plaster of Paris, representing the twelve signs of the Zodiac,
with Phoebus in his chariot in the centre; at the corners are the
coronet and arms of the family. In a small breakfast parlour are
several panels painted with different subjects on canvas, particularly
one of David playing on the Harp before Saul ; the expression of
jealous rage in the countenance is remarkably well executed. The
ball-room is spacious, but detached from the house. Lord Lyttelton
appears to have been particularly delighted with this place, and
observes that £3000 judiciously laid out would render Powys Castle
the most august place in the kingdom. Gardens have been laid out
with parallel terraces and squared slopes; the ancient water- works
and clipped shrubs are removed; the park, formed of spacious and
verdant lawns, with swelling hills, extends to Welsh Pool, and is
excellently wooded. At the top of this park are distant views of
Plinlimmon, Cader Idris, Snowdon, Aran-Mowddvvy, &e. and an
index is placed pointing to each of them; a road is tastefully con-
ducted to the castle, which is occasionally seen and lost in the
approach. The first Lord Powys, created so by Charles the First,
obtained this castle (on which 17 manors in this county are still
dependant) by purchase in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In
October, 1644, Powys Castle was attacked and taken for the parlia-
ment by Sir Thomas Myddelton, and its owner, Percy Lord Powys,
taken prisoner, and all his estates sequestered, on account of his
attachment to the king's party; but he obtained re-possession by
compounding for them, and they have continued with his descendants
ever since.

About two miles from Welsh Pool, on the banks of the Severn, in
the township of Gungrog Vawr, in this parish, is Ystrad March ell
(Strata Marcella, Alba Domus de Marcella, or Pola), an old monas-
tery. It is stated by one writer, that a Cistercian Abbey was founded
here to th« honour of God and the Blessed Virgin, A. D. 1 170, by
Owain Cyveiliog, the son of Gruffydd ; but, according to others, it
was founded by Madog, another son of Gruffydd. In the beginning
of the reign of Kins Edward the Third, the Welsh monks were
removed from this place into English abbies, English monks were
introduced here, and the abbey was made subject to the abbot and
convent of Buildwas, in Shropshire. According to Dugdale, it was
endowed (26th Henry VIII.) with £64. 14s. 2d. per annum. The
abbey was constituted chiefly of timber. It is at present the property
of the Powis family. Grants of several tracts of land in Cyveiliog
and elsewhere were made to this abbey by Gwenwynwyn, son of
Owain Cyveilios:, which ultimately became vested in the Pughs of
Mathavarn, and afterwards passed by sale to the Wynns of Wynnstay.
Mr. Pennant says, " There is no doubt but that the abbey was

founded

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 309

founded by Owain Cyveiliog, and, as Tanner observes, in 1 170 ; his
son, Gwenwynwyn, in 1201, gave to God, the glorious Virgin his
mother, and the monks of Strach march el, for the repose of his so il,
all the pasturage in the province of Cyveiliog. Tanner suspects that
Madog ap Gruffydd Maelor re-founded this monastery: but by his
charter it should seem he only gave to it a piece of land on which to
found a cell, or some appendage to it; and this, he says, was done at
the request of four abbots, among whom is mentioned Philip, himself
actual abbot of Strachmarchel, a proof that the house was then
existing." Cynddelw Brydydd Mawr, bard to Madog ap Meredydd,
Prince of Povvis, and to Prince Davydd ap Owain Gwynedd, gave so
much offence to the monks of this abbey (probably by his writings,
which are supposed to have reflected upon their indolence, luxurious
mode of life, pretended miracles, and other impositions upon the cre-
dulity of the lower classes of mankind), that, when he was upon his
death-bed, they sent one of the monks of their society to inform him
that his bodv would not be admitted for Christian burial within the
precincts of this abbey. Cynddelw wrote some lines in answer, the
purport of which was, that as he was not conscious of having com-
mitted any heinous offence against God or man, it would have done
the members of the abbey more credit to have forgiven his transgres-
sion, whatever it was, and to have ordered that his body might be
interred in their cemetery, rather than have carried their enmity so
far as to refuse him that small, that last boon which he should require
grave for his ashes.

My soul, ye Monks, ye would not save,
Since thus ye grudge my corpse a grave.*

Cynddelw died about A. D. 1170. Adda Vras, a bard and pre-
tended prophet of Is Conwy, was buried in this abbey about A. D.
1250, as was also Gutto 'r Glynn, bard to the abbot of Llan-
Egwest, or Valle Crucis Abbey. The latter wrote a pathetic elegy
on the death of Lly welyn Moel y Pantri, a native of Llansilin, Den-
bighshire, who was interred by the side of his brother bard, Adda
Vras, about the year 1400. The two first lines begin thus-^-

That noble bard is doom'd io dwell
Wilhiti Strat Marcel's narrow cell.

This elegy is still preserved in MS. The abbot who presided at the
abbey when Lly welyn Moel was buried, bore the name of Riffri.

Nearly opposite, at the distance of about a mile, on the banks of the
Severn, on an elevated situation, is Buttington, having its church
dedicated to All Saints; notwithstanding the festival or wake is held
on the first Sunday after Old Midsummer Day. The only thing
worth notice is the chancel window, which formerly consisted entirely

of

* See Myvyrian Archaiology, p, 263,

310 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of painted glass. — There are some remains of encampments on the
rising grounds, which are supposed to be of Danish construction.
Ofta'sDyke passes through this parish. In A.D. 894 the Danes,
under Hesten, after traversing a great part of England, took their
station here. The generals of King Alfred instantly surrounded and
besieged them so closely, that the pagans were obliged to eat their
own horses for subsistence. At length, actuated by despair and
famine, they attempted to force their way through fhe Saxon army,
but were defeated, with such dreadful slaughter, that very few escaped
to their own country. The Breidden and Moel y Golfa hills are in
this parish : on the summit of the former is an ancient British camp
of Caractacus : and on the centre of the mountain a column is erected
to commemorate Admiral Rodney's celebrated victory over the French
fleet in the West Indies, on the 12th of April, 1782. On the top of
this hill was a large lake never known to be dry, until the scite was
lately drained for the purpose of planting. It is also remarkable for
a very fine view, which perhaps affords one of the most delightful
prospects that is anywhere to be found on the confines of Wales.
From here are plainly seen the vales of the Severn, Vyrnwy, and
Tanat, and (from its superior height) the view extends over as far as
Plinlimmon, Cadair Idris, and Aran-ben-Llyn, whose pointed tops
finely diversify the extensive line of horizon. Breiddyn, or Craig-
Breddyn, is mentioned by Mr. Evans in his Specimens of Welsh
Poetry, as a favourite situation of Llewelyn the Great, about 1 240.
Buttington is called by the Welsh Tal y Bont, i. e. " The Foot of the
Bridge," from a bridge crossing the Severn near it. Some of the
richest land in the county lies in this parish, particularly along the
banks of the Severn.

GUILSFIELD, OR CEGIDFA,

" a place abounding with Hemlock," is situate about 3 miles north
of Welsh Pool. It is a neat well-built village, situate in the most
fertile part of the county, on the banks of a rivulet called Bele, and
surrounded by several 'plantations and woods far surpassing any in
Montgomeryshire. In the centre of the village stands the ancient
church, rearing its lofty tower above several venerable elm and yew
trees ; it is dedicated, according to Mr. Carlisle, to All Saints, but
according to Mr. Pennant to Saint Giles, and was first built about the
year 1170. It is a gothic structure, and contains many monuments to
the memory of the several families hereinafter-mentioned, viz. Eger-
ton of Trelydan Hall, Owen and Lloyd of Trawscoed, Edwards
of Burgedin, Mytton of Garth, and one to Brochwel Griffith, of
Broniarth, grandson to Dr. John Griffith, Bishop of Saint Asaph, by
whose death the family name became extinct. On the family seat of
the Lloyds, of Llan-er-Brochwel, is a small brass plate in memory of
Richard LJoyd, Esq. who died in 1802. There were formerly several

good

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES, 311

good paintings on glass, which modern hands have destroyed : the
only one now remaining is a beautiful representation of the Virgin
and Child, in one of the north windows ; the expression in their coun-
tenances is very fine. The church-yard contains many tombstones
worth attention.

The Manor of Broniarth, in this parish, contains about 800 acres of
unenclosed land, very hilly, on the top of which is a large pool, called
LlynBroniarth, abounding with fish, belonging to the lord of the manor
(Major Gore). The following is an extract from a MS. supposed to be
a transcript of Bishop Fleetwood's : — " Myvott, Pool, and Gulsfield :
these three rectories belong to Christ Church, in Oxford, (a dono
Henry VIII.) leased by the College to Sir James Palmer for lives,
assigned over by his son, the Earl of Castlemain, to my Lord Powys :
they did belong to the Monastry of Strata Marcelli." The Township
of Broniarth extends to the bridge over the river Vyrnwy, within a
short distance of the village of Meivod. Sir John Oldcastle, who was
accused of being a Lollard, secreted himself in an obscure part of this
township, where he was discovered by Sir Edward Charlton, Lord
Powys, and delivered over to the fury of the inquisition of those times.
George Griffith, D.D. made Bishop of St. Asaph at the Restoration,
was born at Broniarth Hall, in this township. Lord Cobham, " says
Lord Orford," was the first author, as well as first martyr, among
our nobility : a man whose virtues made him a reformer, whose valor
a martyr, whose martyrdom an enthusiast. He was suspended by a
chain fastened round his waist over a slow fire : this torturing death
he bore with constancy ; and with his last breath conjured Sir Thomas
Erpingham, that if he should see him rise from the grave in three days,
he would then intercede with the king in favour of his brethren, the
Lollards. The lordship of Broniarth (according to Mr. Yorke) was
granted to the family of Tanad, of Aber-Tanad, the fifth of Henry
the Fifth, for the assistance they gave in the apprehension of
Oldcastle. In it is a field called, to this day, Lord Cobham's garden.
Sir Gruffudd Fychan, Lord of Byrgedwyn (Burgedin), Treflydan
(Trelydan), Garth, and Caerfawr, in the opening of the fifteenth
century, with his elder brother leuan, are parties to a deed in- the
possession of the late Devereux Mytton, of Garth, Esq. (1797):
whereby Edward Charleton, Lord of Powys, granted them several
privileges for assisting in taking Sir John Oldcastle, in the third of
Henry the Fifth, when the king himself was absent in France. From
Dafydd Lloyd, eldest son of Sir Gruflfudd, were descended the Lloyds
of Llai, of Marrington, &c. ; from Cadwaladr, the second son, the
Lloyds of Maesmawr, of Rhandir, and Humphrey ap Roger of
Treflydan ; Reinallt, his third son, according to the ancient Welsh
custom, under his claim as the youngest, had the family house at
Garth. His grandson, John ap Gruffudd ap Reinallt, was the first
who took the name of Wynn. " Humphrey Wynn, son of John

Wynn

312 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Wynn of this house, was living in the year 1560." The sixth in
descent from Humphrey married Dorothy, daughter of John Powel,
Esq. of Worthen, and had issue an only daughter Dorothy, married
to Richard Mytton, Esq. of Pont-is-Cowryd, a branch of the
Mvttons of Halston, in the county of Salop. At the upper end of
this township is a small piece of land enclosed with a stone wall, and
planted with poplar trees, called " the Quakers' burial ground,"
belonging to the Society of Friends, but it has not been used as a
burial-ground within the memory of man.

Rhyd Esgyn ; i. e. " the Ford of Ascent or Attack." This town-
ship consists of the richest land in the county; it is situate on the
Severn, and is one of the few places at which this river is fordable
hereabouts. Immediately opposite, to the south-east, is a strong
British encampment, with vast ramparts of loose stones. About two
miles north of Guilsfield, on a hill called Gaervawr, is a small British
encampment ; but by some it is supposed to be a Roman encampment.
There can, however, be little doubt that a battle was fought between
the British and Romans in the plains of Varchoel, as part of a Roman
ensign has been found there. At the upper end of this parish is
a hill, comprising nearly 60 acres, called Mo?l-y-Garth, which runs
in a direction contrary to all other hills (it is believed) in the king-
dom. The township of Llan-er-Brochwel, or Llanerch-Brochwel ;
i.e. "The portion or demesne of Brochwel:" the mansion house of
this name stands at the commencement of this township, and is sup-
posed to have be^n formerly the residence of Brochwel, a descendant
of one of the Powisian princes. There are a few houses in this town-
ship, called Bwlch Aeddan, derived from Bvvlch, " a pass between
the hills," which was entrenched in former times, and Aeddan, " a
chieftain," who probably raised the fortifications. The township of
Tref-Edryd is the uppermost and most mountainous in the parish : it
is separated only by the south branch of the Vyrnwy from the ancient
castle of Mathrafal.

At the distance of three miles and a half from Welsh Pool, on the
road to Montgomery, we pass the village of Forden, near which is
Nant-y-Criba, the seat of the present Viscount Hereford (now
tenanted by Colonel Davies, of Marrington), near which is a British
encampment, the only remains whereof is a large tumulus. The
Danes wintered in this neighbourhood in the year 894. The
encampments are visible on the Long Mountain and near Buttington.
At the Gaer, in the township of Thornbury, is a Roman camp on the
Severn; with British encampments to the south-west, on the rising
grounds. The House of Industry of the United District of Mont-
gomery and Pool, which is an expensive fabric, erected about the
year 1795, is situate in this parish.

About two miles and a half further we arrive at

MONTGOMERY,

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICE?. 313

MONTGOMERY,

situate on a gentle ascent; at the back of which is another, called the
Town Hill, whereon stood the castle, from the ruins of which a fine
view presents itself of the vales of the Severn and Chirbury, Powis
Castle, and Marton Pool. The town is clean and well-built, and
inhabited chiefly by persons of moderate fortune, who lead a life of
retirement. This town in the year 1700 was little more than a
village, though now capable of affording all the comforts of life,
without any of the bustle of larger towns. It is situate in a fertile
vale, decorated with lively scenery, indicating population and fertility.
The town is represented in Parliament by one member ; the bailiffs are
the returning officers : it was incorporated in the reign of King
Henry the Third, and is governed by a high steward, two bailiffs,
and twelve burgesses or commqn-councilmen. The towns of Machyn-
lleth, Llanidloes, Llanfylliu, and Welsh Pool were formerly contri-
butory boroughs. The church of Montgomery is a handsome
cruciform structure, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, and ornamented
with a handsome monument of Richard Herbert, Esq. father of the
celebrated Lord Herbert, first Lord Herbert of Chirbury. He is
represented in armour; and near him is a recumbent figure of his
wife Magdalene, daughter of Sir Richard Newport, of High Ercall.
In front are statues of their numerous offspring. The monument was
erected by his lady, who survived him several years. After dis-
charging her duty to her children, she married (at the end of twelve
years) Sir John Danvers, brother to Henry Earl of Danby, and died
in 1627. The house called Black Hall, once the residence of the
Herberts, stood at the lower end of the town, but it has long since
been destroyed by fire; a deep fosse, however, shews its ancient scite.
The lodge in Lymore Park, a short distance from the town, was
enlarged after this accident, and now presents a venerable wooded
front. The remains of the castle, situate on an eminence north of the
town, show the original to have been a very grand building, but at
present so much demolished that the foundation cannot be traced
with any degree of accuracy ; it stood on a rock quite precipitous on
one side, and sufficiently high to command the whole place; but now
the only remains are the small part of a tower at the south-west
corner, with a few low and broken walls. In the year 1094 this
castle was taken by the Welsh ; and many were the skirmishes at
different times for the possession of the place. In the year 1231 it
was taken and burnt by Llewelyn Prince of Wales, who inhumanly
put the whole garrison to the sword. By whom it was again re-edified
subsequent to this period is uncertain; but that it did not long
remain in its ruined condition is clear, from the circumstances of a
conference being held there in 1268, when a peace was concluded
between England and Wales, through the mediation of Ottoboni,
Pope Clement's Legate in Britain. After this, no event of material

consequence

314 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

consequence immediately connected with the history of this place
happened till the era of the civil wars in the reign of Charles the
First, when Lord Herbert, the then proprietor of the castle, garri-
soned it for the king ; but was so much intimidated at the approach of
the parliamentary forces, that he wrote to their general, Sir Thomas
Myddelton, declaring his readiness to join the republican standard,
which he accordingly did. The advance of the royal forces under
Lord Byron, however, soon after rendered it prudent for Sir Thomas
to retire to Oswestry, leaving only a very small garrison in the castle;
but having been there reinforced by Sir William Brereton, Sir John
Meldrum, and Sir William Fairfax, he again marched back to its
relief, when a most desperate engagement ensued, in which the
royalists, though much superior in numbers, were completely de-
feated. The castle subsequently met with the same fate as most of
those which had at any time declared for the king, being dismantled
by order of the House of Commons, and never again repaired. The
town was anciently surrounded by a wall, evident marks of which
still remain. In Leland's time great part of this wall was standing ;
and that writer mentions four gates then in ruins,—" Kedewen Gate,
Chirbury Gate, Arthur's Gate, and Kerry Gate;" and also some
remains " of broken turrets," of which the white tower was " the
most notable ;" but only a few traces of these are now left. On the
same side of the town as the castle, but at a short distance, is a
stupendous encampment, which probably has been a British post:
the situation is on the summit of a lofty hill, sufficiently defended on
one side by its abrupt ascent, and on the more accessible parts by
deep fosses, which run directly across it ; the approach was further
defended by four shorter fosses, having two entrances communicating
with the main work. In the vale between this hill and that on which
the castle stood are the remains of a small fortification, which Mr.
Evans conjectures to have been the site of the fortress built by
Baldwyn, because " partaking of the Norman manner in design and
shape." A grant of Edward the First was given to Bogo de Knovill,
Constable of the Castle, allowing him to sell certain wood on Corndon
Forest, for repairing the walls and fosses round the town and castle ;
and a grant for the same purpose was given by Edward the Third,
permitting a toll for seven years on several articles which were
brought there for sale, among others squirrel skins. The first
burgess that was summoned to parliament was in the 27th of Henry
;he Eighth. The name of William Herbert is first on the list in the
• ear 1542. The County Gaol here is a new and commodious
structure ; as is also the Town Hall, which stands in the centre of the
principal street. This latter is a handsome brick building, erected
on arches; underneath is the market-place, above is a large room for
public business, and courts of justice, in which the business of the
Corporation is transacted and the Quarter Sessions for the County
held. Near

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 315

Near this town is the famous mountain called Cefn Digol, cele-
brated for having been the spot where the last contested battle was
fought between freedom and oppression, or where the heroes of the
fallen principality gave their expiring groans : it was a desperate
engagement, in which Madog, prince of this country, was defeated
and slain.

About three miles east of Montgomery is Chirbury, which, although
not in the county of Montgomery, is situate so near to the borders of
Wales, and so connected by historical events, that it is requisite here
to give an account of it. It is a handsome village, and here was
formerly a castle and monastery, supposed to have been built by
Ethelfleda, a Mercian lady, and it gives the title of baron to the Fowls
family, having been so first attached in the person of the celebrated
Edward Lord Herbert of Chirbury. Chirbury Priory was founded
in the reign of King John, for monks of the order of Saint Bennet ;
and at the general dissolution it was granted to Edward Hopton end
his wife Elizabeth, but the rectory and parsonage were soon afterwards
bestowed on the Grammar School in Shrewsbury. In the 7th of
Edward VI. this hundred was given by the crown to Edward Herbert
and his heirs ; but Charles the First, in the 3d year of his reign,
permitted Sir Edward Herbert to dispose of it to William Neye and
Thomas Gardiner, Esqrs. of Chirbury. Chirbury was called by the
Welsh Llan Ffynnon Wen, " the Church of the White Well.5' By a
composition between friar Philip and the rector of Montgomery, the
right of burials and christenings was reserved to the church of Chir-
bury. The same year the prior had a grant of the tithes of Mont-
gomery wood and mill. In 1280 the prior and convent removed to
Snede, the place of their first constitution and abode, it being
represented that Chirbury was not a proper place for celebrating
divine mysteries ; but this removal, it was observed, was not to affect
the souls of those buried at Chirbury, to whom they were bound to
do the same services as before the removal ; neither were the religious
to be deprived of any of their rights at Chirbury. This house main-
tained a prior and six monks, and its revenues were near £80. The
last prior was Oliver Middleton, of Middleton Hall, in this parish,
who had a pension for life of £8 per annum.

Between Hope's Gate and Lady House (both of which are in the
parish of Worthen, in the county of Salop), adjoining the turnpike
road, is a British tumulus, upon which several oak trees seem to
flourish, and to protect the ashes of some warriors, whose history is as
silent as their dust.

In the township of Marton is a very fine sheet of water, called
Marton Pool, covering near fifty-four acres of land ; the depth is in
some places very great, and the circumference is nearly a mile and
half, and it abounds with very large fish, and out of it run three
rivulets.

In

316

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

In the vicinity of Montgomery is the parish of Churchstoke, called
by the Welsh Yr Ystoc, having its church dedicated to St. Nicholas.
Part of this parish is in the county of Salop ; the tithes belong to the
hospital of Clun. The vale of Churchstoke is watered by two
streams, called the Camlet and the Ceibutrach, besides other smaller
brooks, which all unite within the parish, and proceeding through the
much-admired Marrington Dingle, enter the Severn to the north of
Forden. In it are several tumuli or barrows, and the remains of an
old fortification called Symmond's Castle. In the memoranda of the
civil war in North Wales, written in the time of Mr. William Morris,
of Llansilin, and published by the Rev. Walter Davies, in his History
of Llansilin, in the Cambro-Briton, vol. 1, p. 464, there appears the
following paragraph: — "February 23, 1646. The Montgomery-
shire forces began to fortify Llansilin Church, for the straightening
and keeping in of the Chirk Castle men, where Sir John Watts was
governor, who shortly alter deserted the castle, and, marching
towards the king's army with all his garrison, were taken by the men
of Montgomery Castle, after a hot bickering in Churchstoke Church,
the first day of March, 1646."

About four miles west of Bishop's Castle, Shropshire, is the small
village of Hyssington. The incumbent of Churchstoke presents to
the curacy of Hyssington, and the tithes are appropriated. Prior to
the Reformation they belonged to the priory of Chirbury, and after-
wards they became the property of Edward Powell, Esq The
present church was built within the precincts of a castle now in ruins.
Upon one of the bells is the following inscription in antique charac-
ters:— " Sancta Ethelreda ora pro nobis." The parish of Hyssington
is within the manor of Halcetor: it was formerly dependant on the
priory of Chirbury.

Corndon hill, in the parishes of Churchstoke and Hyssington,
rises to a considerable height, and out of its quarries are dug vast
quantities of slabs, flags, &c. On the top of the hill are four car-
neddau, forming a circle of near 90 feet.

Five miles from Welsh Pool, on the road to Newtown, we leave on
our right Berriew, or Aber Rhiw. The parish is very large, and
abounds with gentlemen's seats. The church, dedicated to Saint
Beuno, has lately been re-built, and is a very handsome structure.
About a mile from the church, near the river Severn, is Maen Beuno
(Beuno's Pillar), a large stone commemorating the patron saint. In
Bishop Fleetwood's MSS. we find the following note: — " R. de
Berrew concessa per Anianum Ep'um Asaph, Abbot et Conventii de
Pola, A.D. 1265: passed from the Crown about 30th Anno Regn.
Elizabetha, now in the inheritance of John Blayney, Esq." Vaynor
Park and Glansevern were formerly the property of the family of
Devereux, Viscount Hereford : the former is now in the possession of
Mrs. Winder, the Jatter of William O\ven; Esq. Barrister-at-law and

King's

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 317

King's Counsel. Near the village is Rhiewport, the seat of Wythen
Jones, Esq. The Montgomeryshire Canal passes near to the village
of Berriew, and crosses the Severn over a large aqueduct; and a ne<v
and handsome bridge has lately been built over the same river, at
the joint expense of those gentlemen whose property lies in its
vicinity.

In a valley not far from this place is Bettws Church, situate on
the banks of the rivulet Bechan. It is called Bettws-y-Cedwg, and is
dedicated also to Saint Beuno, and formerly belonged to Llanlligai?,
a Cistercian nunnery, founded about 1239, and valued at the dissolu-
tion at £22. i4s. Od. The steeple is very handsome, and was built
by John Meredith in 1531.

On the right of our road from Welsh Pool to Neutown, in this
parish, is Castle Dolforwyn, or " the Meadow of the Virgin," about
three miles from the latter place. The undulations of surface which
this tract exhibits are beautiful to the admirers of landscape, but too
abrupt in the opinion of agriculturists; the soil, however, is grateful,
and yields good grain. The castle stands on a woody steep on the
north-west bank of the river Severn, and commands the whole of the
surrounding country : it was, according to some, built by Bleddyn ap
Cynvyn between 1065 and 1073; according to Dugdale, it was the
work of Davydd ap Llewelyn, a prince who reigned from the year
1240 to 1246 ; but it is referred by a Welsh writer, John Dafydd
Rhys, to a much earlier date. It was of a quadrangular form, of no
great extent, being about fifty yards long and twenty feet wide, with
walls nearly four feet thick : a small part of the north wall with some
trifling remains of the interior are yet left, but the south and east
walls are entirely demolished, and the other parts now standing are in
so shattered a condition that a strong wind would probably level the
whole with the ground. The princes of Wales, in their contests with
the Saxons and Normans, seem to have made no use of this fortress;
and it could not long be tenable for want of water. Some antiquities
and several coins have been dug out of the ruins : but the date of the
coins is not known : they were formerly preserved at Gregynos:, the
seat of Charles Hanbury Tracy, Esq. in the adjoining parish of
Tregynon.

On our left we cross the Severn, over a wooden bridge, to the
parish of Llandyssil, having its church dedicated to Tysilio, a saint
who lived about the middle of the sixth century.

On the left of our road is Llanmerewig, or Llan-yn-Merewig,
" the church or village on the Deer's hill :" in the Myvyrian Archai-
ology it is called Llamyr-ewig, " the Deer's Leap," to which a silly
legend is attached ; but the derivation of which more probably is
Bre-ewig, " the Hill of the Hind or Deer." The church is dedi-
cated to Llwchaiarn, a saint who lived about the beginning of the
seventh century.

On

318 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

On the left of Llanmerewig is Llanllwchaiarn (also called Uwch-
Affes), having its church likewise dedicated to the before-mentioned
Saint. It is a modern building on the banks of the Severn, about a
mile north-east of Newtown. On the south-east side of the parish
are the vestiges of a Roman road ; and at a short distance from the
church on the south side, on the opposite bank of the Severn, are the
remains of a small intrenchment.

NEWTOWN, OR TRENEWYDD,

was formerly called Llan-Fair-Ynghedewain, or " Saint Mary's in
the Cantref of Cydewain." It is a well-built town, situate in a
beautiful vale, enriched by the Severn, and bounded on each side of
the river by moderate hills generally mantled with wood, which can-
not fail to render it a delightful situation for a residence. It is not an
incorporated town. Camden observes " Caersws was at one time a
market-town and borough privileged; but having fallen into decay,
Newtown was built about four miles lower down the river, and was
called by the Welsh Y Dre Newydd, or Newtown, in reference to the
older one Caer Sws, or Caer Llews." Of late years, from the extra-
ordinary increase of its population owing to the improving state of its
flannel manufactures, it has become a flourishing town of consider-
able wealth and consequence. The flannels made in this town, which
exceed in quantity all that are manufactured in the rest of the county,
are sent down to Welsh Pool for sale to a market held there for that
purpose every other Thursday. Several new manufactories have
lately been erected on the Severn, whose course forms the arch of a
circle on the northern skirt of this place. The town-hall is an old
brick building standing in the middle of the street. The church
(dedicated to Saint Mary) is an antique edifice, consisting of a nave
and chancel, having in the latter a marble table, and in the wall
contiguous a small monument for Sir John Pryce, Bart. Near it is an
elegant gilt partition in the church, containing various curious
devices, and an antique font, reported to have been brought from
Abbey Cwm Hir; also a beautiful screen, brought from thence by
Sir Matthew Pryce. Newtown Hall, formerly the seat of the Pryces,
now of their descendant and representative, the Rev. G. A. Evors, is,
at present, owing to the increase of houses, situate within the town.
Its former owner, Sir John Pryce, was a gentleman of worth, but of
extraordinary eccentricity. The family was settled at Newtown Hall
about the time of Henry the Sixth, and was of great antiquity. Their
ancestor Rhys was an Esquire of the Body to Edward the
Fourth. The male Hue of Newtown ended in Sir Edward Manley
Pryce, Baronet, who died a bachelor. His father, Sir John Powell
Pryce, married a Manley of Manley. This gentleman was accus-
tomed to follow the hounds many years after he had totally lost his
sight, and would run the risk of some dangerous leaps. Sir John

Pryce,

TOPO,GRAPHICA,L NOTICES. 319

Pryce, grandfather to the last Baronet, married three wives: his
first a Powel, grand-daughter of Sir John Powel, one of the Justices
of the King's Bench in the reign of James the Second, who eminently
signalized his integrity and resolution in the case of the seven bishops.
To the memory of his second wife, a Morris, Sir John Pryce wrote
an elegy of a thousand lines, still extant; in which he affirms, that
with his last breath he would lisp Maria's name ; but he forgot his
vow, and was soon smittten with the charms of a Widow Jones,
This lady would not give her hand to Sir John until he had entombed
her predecessors, who had, till that time, lain in state and chemical
preparations in his bed-chamber. He survived this wife also, and on
her death he wrote to Bridget Bostock, the Cheshire Pythoness, to
know if she could not restore her to life.

KERRY, Oil CERI,

is a small village three miles south-east of Newtown, pleasantly situate
on a gentle eminence in the vale of Kerry, encompassed by hills, rich
vallies, fruitful fields, good pastures, and extensive plantations both
useful and ornamental. The name implies " the Mountain Ash,"
with which the district, probably, in former times, abounded. It is
the opinion of some etymologists, that the word Ceri is a cor-
ruption of Caeriau, i. e. " Fortified Places," the remains of which are
numerous in this parish, particularly one called The Moat, about a
mile and a half from the church, which, from its unfinished state, is
believed to be one attempted to be erected by Henry III. The
ancient name of the church was Llanfihangel-yn-Gheri, or " the
Church dedicated to Saint Michael." The wake is kept on the
Monday succeeding Michaelmas-day. The chapel of Gwernygo,
which was formerly supported by the tithes of that township, is now
in ruins, and the township (being tithe-free) pays a modus of four
pence to the vicar of Ceri. In the centre, and along a gradual ascent
to the opposite declivity, are erected, in one tolerable street, the
houses which constitute the village, having its venerable church con-
tiguous with the principal habitations, and situate nearly in the centre
of the parish. This church was rebuilt, according to Giraldus Cam-
brensis, in the year 1176; the superstructure consists of a quadran-
gular tower or belfry, terminating in regular turrets, from whence may
be had an extensive view of the country, finely diversified with wood,
water, and their picturesque concomitants; the internal part has two
aisles, divided by three or four heavy gothic arches, and opposite are
some pointed windows: of its monuments only one claims attention,
which is of white marble, and erected in the chancel, to perpetuate
the memory and donations of Richard Jones, Esq. late of Greenwich,
in the county of Kent, formerly a purser in the royal navy, but a
native of this parish. He was born at Black Hall, about two miles

from

320 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

from the village, in 1723, and died November 3d, 1788. The school
house is situate in the centre of the street, and supported by bene-
factions, and principally that of Mr. Jones, the annual interest whereof
amounts to £154. There are at present, on the foundation, in the
daily school, 120 boys and girls, educated and partly clothed. The
Sunday school is open to all the children of the parish, and to en-
courage their attendance, they are allowed bread and cheese by the
will of the founder. The parish of Ceri must have formed part of
the property which was given by Elystan Glodrydd, Lord of Ferregs
and Maelienydd, to his second son Morgeneu. Llewelyn ap lorwerth
gave the Lordship of Ceri and Cydewain as a marriage portion with
his daughter, Gwladus, the widow of Reginald de Breos, Lord of
Brecknock, to Reginald Mortimer, Lord of Maelienydd, who (about
the year 1242) built the castles of Cefn Llys and Cnwclas. Ac-
cording to Matthew Paris, Ceri was the scene of the successful
resistance of Llewelyn ap lorwerth to King Henry the Third. The
English monarch, after his irruption into the borders, led his army
into the vale of Ceri, to a place corruptly called Cridia, having in his
march compelled the Welsh to raise the siege of Montgomery. At
Ceri much time was lost in cutting down a wood of vast extent, which
frequently protected the Welsh from the incursions of the English, in
the centre of which was a fort or castellated mansion, serving the
inhabitants as a place of security against the sudden attacks of the
English. This mansion King Henry took and demolished; but
finding the site of it very strong and almost inaccessible, he, by the
advice of Hubert de Burgh, laid the foundation of a castle on the
same spot : but Llewelyn so harassed the English during its erection,
by intercepting their convoys and cutting off their foraging parties,
that Henry, after three months' labour and much expence, was glad
to agree to a truce, the conditions of which, on his part, were, the
levelling of the works which he had constructed, called Hubert's
Folly ; and on the part of the Welsh prince, to pay three thousand
marks for the materials, and consenting to do homage for the lordship
of Ceri. William de Breos, Lord of Brecknock, was taken prisoner
at Ceri in one of these rencounters, for whose liberation Henry made
no stipulation. Ceri belongs to the see of Saint David's, which is
probably owing to the activity and courage of Giraldus Cambrensis,
also the adjoining parish of Mochtref, and likewise probably great
part of the county of Radnor. Giraldus, at that time Archdeacon of
Brecknock, having heard that the Bishop of St. Asaph had claimed,
and had called upon the inhabitants of Powys and Cydewain to assist
him in taking possession of the church of Ceri by force, if necessary,
he (Giraldus) summoned the clergy of Radnor to meet him at Ceri,
and prevailed also upon Eineon Glyd and Cadwallon, two reguli of
that county, to furnish him with a body of horse, and support him in
defending the rights of the see of Saint David's. Thus assisted, he

arrived

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 321

arrived at Ceri before the bishop, tolled the bells, and said mass. On
the bishop's approach, he prohibited his entrance to the church unless
he came as a friend. On the bishop's persisting to take possession of
the church, Giraldus, accompanied by the rest of the clergy, met him
in procession with tapers, and, carrying the cross, threatened him
with excommunication, upon which he departed much mortified.
The usual traces of entrenchments and fortified places still remaining
in the parish prove it to have been a scene of warfare in former ages,
and are strong evidences of the truth of the preceding history. But
the almost total change of the language from that of Welsh to English
within the last century, prevents any advantage being derived from
tradition respecting the history and antiquities of this parish. —
Trefen, in this parish, was the residence of the Rev. Thomas Jones,
a very eminent lecturer at Trinity College, Cambridge, and who was
born at Berriew on the 23d of January, 1756.

The parish of Mochdrev, or Mochtref, was anciently a part of the
cwmwd of Ceri. The same district constituted also the lordship and
manor of Kerry. The etymology of Mochdrev is very uncertain.
It is a perpetual curacy ; the patron is the prebendary of Mochdrev,
to whom the great tithes belong. It is valued in the king's books at
£L 8s. and it was one of the twenty-four prebends with which
Thomas Beke, Bishop of Saint David's about the year 1287, endowed
the college of St. Mary's at Abergwyli in Carmarthenshire. This
was afterwards transferred by Henry VIII. to the dissolved house of
the mendicant friars at Brecon, called the College of Christ Church.
The church, dedicated to All Saints, is a plain, simple building, with
a wooden tower. The village consists of a few straggling houses
adjoining the church, and is distant from Newtown about two miles
and a half. The whole parish is very uneven, but picturesque: its
form is semicircular, surrounded by high hills. It was, at no very
distant period, like the neighbouring parish of Kerry, and the Severn
vale, covered with wood. As Mochdref and Kerry formed one
cwmwd, and were always united under the same reguli, they under-
went the same changes, and the historical notices referring to the one
generally apply to both. From an anonymous poem in the Myvyrian
Archaiology, which contains the characteristics of many parts of
Wales, it may be gathered that the inhabitant of Mochdrev were in
former times noisy and quarrelsome, and that Ceri was famous for
mead-horns. As the mead-horns have disappeared, and a happy
change has taken place in the circumstances of the people, who as
borderers were always exposed to hostile excursions, it might be
expected that peace and security would be followed, as in fact they
have been, by the happiest effects. Mochdrev and Ceri are the only
parishes in the county of Montgomery which belong to the see of
Saint David.

,About six miles from- Newtown, on the road to Llanidloes, is

Llandinam.
Q q 2

322 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

Llandinam. The church is dedicated to Lloriio, a saint of the
congregation of Illtyd, in the middle of the sixth century. It is
situate on an eminence, beyond which there is a remarkable intrench-
ment, called Y Gaer Vechan, which name may signify " the lesser
city/' or " the lesser fortification." — Penhalog, otherwise Banheglog
or Banadlog, is a chapel-of-ease to Llandinam, and has been recently
rebuilt and neatly fitted up for the performance of Divine Service.

At a short distance is the parish of Llanwnog, having its church
dedicated to Gwynog, a saint of the congregation of Catwg, in the
middle of the sixth century. Part of the window above the altar in
this church is painted glass, on one pane of which is represented
St. Gwynog, attired in his episcopal robes, with a mitre on his head,
his name being written underneath in old Saxon characters.

Caersws, now only a small hamlet, situate on the Severn about five
miles above Newtown, appears to have been a town of considerable
antiquity, as already noticed in treating of the Roman stations in this
county.

At the distance of nine miles from Newtown we arrive at

LLANIDLOES,

or the church of Idloes, a saint who lived about the middle of the
sixth century. It is a small town, pleasantly situated near the Severn,
with a few spacious streets, which are built generally very irregular,
and the whole town contains very few good houses. This place, like
most towns in North Wales, is built in the form of a cross, indicating
a Roman origin, having its market-house in the centre. Of public
buildings, the principal is its ancient church, the body resting on five
arches, surrounded with neat pillars, ending in capitals of palm leaves:
these, the inhabitants affirm, were brought from Abbey Cwmhir, in
Radnorshire. There is a date on the roof of 1542; after which soon
followed the dissolution of monasteries in Great Britain. Llanidloes
has a considerable market for yarn and flannels, which are manufac-
tured to a great amount, and carried to Welsh Pool for sale. The
town was once a contributory borough with Welsh Pool and Llan-
fyllin. Near the town are several extensive sheepwalks ; and in the
neighbourhood an excellent quarry of coarse slate. The river Cly-
wedog falls into the Severn near the town. In the vicinity is Berth-
llwyd, an old mansion belonging to the ancient family of Lloyd; and
on the north side is a small lake, called Llyn-yr-Afanc, or " Lake of
Beavers," which animals are said to have been very numerous here.

About five miles from Llanidloes, on the road to Aberystwith, is
Llangurig, having its church dedicated to Curig, a saint who came
into Wales about the seventh century. The village is situate near
the Wye, on the south-eastern side of Pumlumon, in a very barren
and mountainous part of the county.

Llanbrynmair, or " the church on the hill of Saint Mary," to whom

the

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 323

the church is dedicated. The hills and mountains in this parish are
very extensive, and are used for the pasture of horned cattle and
sheep. In the township of Pennant is a very fine waterfall, called
Ffrwd-Fawr (the great water-spout or catacract), which is much
admired, particularly after heavy rain, when an immense body of
water falls 45 yards perpendicular. A tradition prevails, that at a
place called Tal-Erddig was formerly a chapel-of-ease, but there are
no remains of it at present. The road from Newtown to Machynlleth
passes through the village, which is situate nine miles east of the
latter town. This is considered the best and most romantic road for
travellers to take on their journey in the summer months to Aberyst-
with, for whose accommodation a large new inn has lately been built.
Humphrey David ap Evan, parish-clerk of Llanbrynmair about the
year 1 600, was an excellent Welsh bard.

In the township of Rhiw Saeson, i. e. " the Clift or Ascent of the
Saxons," is Rhiew Saeson House, which gives name to the township.
It was formerly the property of the fami-ly of Owen, who, with the
Pryces of Newtown, were descendants of Elystan Glodrydd, head of
one of the five royal tribes of Wales. In the last century the mansion
and estate were conveyed by sale to the Wynns of Wynnstay. Some
attribute the great number of English surnames in the parish of
Llanbrynmair and the neighbourhood to a regiment of soldiers who
were quartered at Machynlleth during the Protectorate, and dis-
banded at the Restoration. In whatever manner, however, or period,
these English settlers came to Cyfeilioc, their descendants still retain
their surnames, though they have changed their language, several of
them scarcely knowing a word of English. Some of the foreign
names here are Webster, Baxter, Tibbot, Swancoat, Jervis, Meddins,
Bebb, Stubb, Tanner, Jerman, &c. William Baxter, author of the
Glossarium Antiquitatem Romanantm, was of this tribe, and was
born at Llan Uugan, in this county. In the township of Tafel Wern,
in this parish, was the mansion of Owain Cyveilioc and Gwenwynwyn,
Princes of Powys. It is called Wai wern Castle, and a tumulus still
shews its site, about two miles from the church.

Dar Owain (" the Oak of Owain") is situate about six miles east of
Machynlleth, betwen the Llanbrynmair and Mallwyd roads. The
wake, or feast of dedication to Tudyr, the patron saint, is annually
observed on the 25th day of October, or the first Sunday after. The
diversion is kept on Monday by what is called Curo Tudyr, or " the
Beating of Tudyr," which is done in this manner : one of the lads
carrying a long pole or branch of a tree upon his shoulder, the other
lads beat it with their clubs. About the distance of half a mile west
of the church, on the top of a hill called Fron Goch, in the township
of Caer Seddfan, are the remains of an ancient camp, and on the top
of another hill opposite to it on the north side, being part of a farm
called Berllan Deg, " the Fair Orchard/' several warlike instruments

of

324 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

of brass were discovered some years ago. According to Ect on, Dar-
owen vicarage was erected by Bishop Robert Parsons, A. D. 1545, at
the request of Richard ab GrufFydd, rector.

Carno is situate about nine miles west of Newtown, and eight miles
north of Llanidloes. The church is dedicated to Saint John the
Baptist. Carno mountain is rendered remarkable by several battles
fought there and on the hills contiguous, particularly in the year 949,
when levaf and lago defeated the sons of Howell dda, and wasted
Dyfed. Likewise, in the year 1097 according to some authors,
according to others 1082, when a bloody and decisive battle was
fought on the mountains of Carno between the Princes of North and
South Wales, wherein Trahairn ab Caradoc, prince of the latter, was
slain, and GruflTydd ab Cynan put in possession of the throne. The
word Carno is probably derived from Carnau, the large heaps of
stones on the neighbouring mountains.

Llanwddin, or Llanowddin, is twelve miles west by north of Llan-
vyilin, and nearly the same distance north from Llanvair Caereineon.
The church, which is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and which
formerly belonged to the Knights Hospitallers, is situate between
mountains near the river Vyrnwy, in the most retired part of the
county, and nearly at its northern extremity. This parish derives its
name, according to tradition, from a giant called Wddyn, or Owddin,
or Wothin, who was born here. There is a place on the hills called
Gwely Wddin, " Wothin's Bed," at which place, according to an
idea entertained by the country people, great treasures are concealed,
but that every attempt to discover them are said to have been frus-
trated by tremendous storms of hail and thunder. Others, however,
with more reason, say that this Wddyn or Owddin was an anchorite,
and his cell in the rocks is still called Gwely, or " the Bed." His
path, when he paid his visit to his neighbouring saint Monacella, at
Pen-Nant-Melangell, being divided only by a mountain five miles
over, is still traced and called by his name. If Owddyn was contem-
porary with Monacella, he must have lived in the seventh century.
The superstitious tradition that vast treasures are concealed about this
hermit's cell caused Hennings, a German, who superintended Lord
Powis's mines at Llangynog, and who had an annual allowance of
£100 to make new trials for ores, to expend his last £100 at the bed
of Owddyn, but, as might have been expected, without any success.
The following note was taken from a MS. belonging to the Right
Reverend J. Griffith, D. D. Bishop of St. Asaph in 1660 .-—"Some
part of this parish, viz. Tre'r Llanelid, &c. belongs to the Society of
Saint John of Jerusalem, and was of late part of the estate of Edward
Lord Herbert of Chirbury, now in jointure to his widow, the Countess
Dowager Inchiquin, who allows ten pounds for serving the cure; the
reversion belongs to Francis Herbert, Esquire." The townships of
Rhiwargor and Marchnant Ucha, though in this parish, belong to the

rectory

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 325

rectory of Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant. A quarry of excellent blue
slates has lately been discovered, and is now worked .with great suc-
cess, at a place called Gallt Forgan, in this parish.

Hirnant ("the extensive Dingle") hath its church dedicated to
St. Illog. The village is six miles north-west of Llanvyllin. There
is a tumulus on the summit of an eminence called Carnedd Illog, sup-
posed to have been placed there in honour of the titular saint ; here is
also a well, called Ffynnon Illog, which is much resorted to for its
mineral powers, but it is doubtful whether it has ever been of real
efficacy in any disorder. There are two intrenchments on opposite
hills on the borders of this parish, one on the northern side bordering
on Pennant parish, the other on the southern side bordering on Llan-
rhaiadr parish, of about four hundred yards in length, but not, as they
usually are in this country, of a circular form : the northern is not
nearly so visible as that to the south, which is called Clawdd Mawr,
and which is now about three yards high. The time or cause of their
erection does not appear to have been ascertained : they are about two
miles distant.

Pennant Melangell hath its church dedicated to Saint Monacella,
or Melangell. The village is situated in a hollow between mountains,
and is about 1 3 miles south-east of Bala and ten north-west of Llan-
fyllin. The river Tanad rises in this parish, and falls into the
Vyrnwy, near Llanymynech, on the confines of Salop. The legend of
Monacella, or Melangell, the female patron saint, is rudely sculptured
in the gallery of the church ; and several of her relics are still shewn
to the credulous who happen to visit this sequestered spot. The cell
of Diva Monacella is in a rock near the church. The history of
Melangell is thus related by Mr. Pennant: — ef According to the
legend, she was the daughter of an Irish monarch, who had deter-
mined to marry her to a nobleman of his court; but the princess
having vowed celibacy, fled from her father's dominions, and took
refuge in this place, where she lived fifteen years without seeing the
face of man. Brochwel Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, being one day
a hare-hunting, pursued his game till he came to a great thicket,
when he was amazed to find a virgin of surprising beauty engaged in
deep devotion, with the hare he had been pursuing under her robe,
boldly facing the dogs, who had retired to a distance, and were
howling, notwithstanding all the efforts of the sportsmen to miake
them seize their prey; and, wonderful to relate, when the huntsman
blew his horn, it stuck to his lips. Brochwel heard her story, and
gave to God and her a parcel of lands to be a sanctuary to all that
fled there. He desired her to found an abbey on the spot: she did
so, and died abbess, in a good old age. She was buried in the
neighbouring church, called Pennant, and from her distinguished by
the addition of Melangell. Her tomb was in a little chapel or
oratory adjoining to the church, and now used as a vestry-room.

This

326 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

This room is still called Cell-y-Bedd, " the cell of the grave.* She
thus became the patroness of hares, which from that circumstance
were called < Wyn MelangelP (Monacella's Lambs). So strong was
the superstition about two centuries ago, that no person would kill a
hare in the parish; and even later, when a hare was pursued by dogs,
it was firmly believed that if any one cried ' God and Saint Mona-
cella be with thee/ it was sure to escape.— In the church-yard is a
stone, with the figure of an armed man: it once covered the remains
of the eldest son of Owairi Gwynedd, viz. lorwerth Drwyndwn, or
Edward with the broken Nose, who was set aside and prevented from
succeeding to the throne on account of this blemish. He fled
hither from the cruelty of his brother Davydd ap Owain Gwynedd,
this place being at that time one of the most celebrated sanctuaries in
Wales. On his shield is inscribed " Hie jacet Etward." Tradition
says he was killed not far from hence, at a place called Bwlch Croes
lorwerth. This valley is extremely picturesque, being inclosed by
hills on all sides, except at its entrance. The upper end is bounded
by two vast precipices, down which at times fall two great cataracts ;
and between them juts the great and rude promontory of Moel Ddii
Mawr, " the great round Black Mountain," which also divides the
precipices into equal parts. Pennant means " the upper end of the
dingle."

Llanvihangel yn Gwynva, otherwise Llanvihangel y Gwynt. — The
church is dedicated to Saint Michael : the village is about four miles
south-west of Llanfyllin. Llwydiarth, a large old house, seated on a
hilly, naked country, is in this parish : it was at one time the property
of the Vaughans, some of whom were representatives in parliament
for the county ; from them it came by marriage into the possession of
Sir W. W. Wynn. This parish is extremely hilly and mountainous.
It is called Llanvihangel y Gwynt, or " The Stormy," to distinguish
it from Llanvihangel Ynghentyn, the Welsh name for Alberbury, on
the confines of the county of Salop.

Llanwyddelan is four miles south of Llanvair and six north of
Newtown. The church is dedicated to Gwyddelan, or Gwendolina,
a saint of whom little is known. This parish exhibits an undulated
surface. The Roman road from Chester to Caersws is supposed to
have gone through the western -extremity of this parish ; it entered
through the pass of Bwlch Cae Haidd, crossed the two Rhiws, and
through the parishes of Llanllugan, Llanfair, Llanerfyl, Llanfihangel,
and Llanfyllin, to the vale of Mochnant, where Sir Richard Colt
Hoare, in his edition of Giraldus, has placed the long-lost Medio-
lanum. The appendages of the Roman road in this parish are, —
first, Adfa, or the place of rendezvous for the British freebooters to
assemble to attack the passing Roman caravans; secondly, two
exploratory posts, one at Pen y Gaer, an intrenched encampment, and
the other at Luest Cerrig, or Cameddau. one on each side of the

Roman

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 327

Roman road, and both of them in view of the passes, Bvvlch Cae
Haidd and Cefn Coch ; and when the caravans appeared in either of
the passes, the usual signal was given, and the two exploratory com-
panies hastened to meet at Adfa to prepare for the attack.

Manavon, or Man-afon, " a place near the river." — The church is
dedicated to Saint Michael. This parish is in most places very
mountainous and unfit for cultivation, and the climate is very cold.
In the hamlet of Dol-Gynfelyn were lately the ruins of a small chapel-
of-ease, which is deemed a reason why the inhabitants thereof have
no seats in the church of Manafon. The Rev. Walter Davies is
Rector of this parish : he is a gentleman who has a just claim to the
gratitude of his countrymen, for having devoted the greater part of
his time and talents in useful researches to elucidate the history of
his native country, and for the manner in which he has distinguished
himself as a bard, historian, and antiquary.

Tregynon (Cynan's Town) is situate on the high road from New-
town to Llanfair, at an equal distance from both : it is called, in the
Myvyrian Archaiology, Llandregynon. The church is said to be
dedicated to Knonkell, a saint not noticed in the British catalogue,
probably Congcen or Cyngen is intended. The church is of modern
date, well pewed, and far surpassing in neatness many in Wales. In
the church yard lie the remains of Arthur Blayney, of Gregynog, Esq.
and by his side his faithful agent and servant, Thomas Colley, Esq.

Llanvechan, or Llan Fechan (" the Small Church"), or Llan yn
Mechain (" the Church or Village in the District of Mechain"). —
The church is dedicated to Garmon, or Germain, one of the most
distinguished of the British saints. The village is situated in the
centre of a beautiful valley, of a circular form, which is about three
miles in diameter, divided by the river Cain, whence Mechain, or
Mach Cain, i. e. " the Tract of Cain." The well of the patron saint,
called Ffynnon Armon, is near the church, and lately the veneration
of its water was such, that the parish clerk always supplied the
church font with it for baptisms. Bryn Gwyn, formerly a seat of the
Kynaston family, afterwards of that ofMostyn, now of Martin Wil-
liams, Esq. ; Bodynfol, a seat formerly of the Trevor family, now of
R. M. B. Maurice, Esq. ; and Bron Gain, a seat formerly of the
ancient family of Griffith ; were all in this parish. There are several
British encampments in the neighbourhood, particularly at Moel-
dinam, which Mr. Edward Lhuyd, by the similarity of the name,
would have to be the Roman Mediolanum. The village is about nine
miles north of Welsh Pool.

Llansantffraid.— The church, dedicated to St. Fraid (in English
St. Bride or St. Bridget), is situate on an eminence commanding a
beautiful view of the vale beneath, through which runs the river
Virniew. A tract in this parish goes by the name of Gwinllan, or
'* the Vineyard." If the Romans attempted the culture of the vine

here.

328 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

here, it is no proof of the sagacity generally attributed to that people,
for it is the coldest part of the parish. There are numerous encamp-
ments, intrenchments, and tumuli, in this, as in most other parishes
on the marches or borders of England. The church-yards in this
part of Wales abound with yew-trees, which are supposed to have
been cultivated more generally here than in the interior of Wales or
in England, in order to supply contending parties in days of yore with
strongly-elastic bows. This parish is called Llan Sant Fraid in
Mechain, to distinguish it from other parishes, whose churches are
under the patronage of the same saint.

Llandysilio is a small village, consisting of only a few houses, on
the road from Welsh Pool to Oswestry, at the eastern extremity of the
county near the river Vyrnwy, and not far from its junction with the
Severn. The canal passes through the parish at no great distance
from the church. It is a very fertile spot, and is inhabited by large
and very respectable landed proprietors and tenantry. The church is
dedicated to Tysilio, son of Brochwel Prince of Powys, a saint and
writer, who flourished about the middle of the seventh century.

Llandrinio hath its church dedicated to Trinio, a saint who lived in
the beginning of the sixth century. It is the adjoining parish to
Llandysilio, and is situate on the borders of Shropshire, at the
eastern extremity of the county, in an angle near the conflux of the
rivers Vyrnwy and Severn. The parish is considered to be one of the
most fertile divisions in Wales, the lands adjacent to the above rivers
being covered with a rich sediment every time they are overflowed. —
There is a free school in this parish, which is endowed with about
£60 per annum in land for the instruction of children who are natives
of the hundred of Deuddur. The master has a good house, and is
perpetual curate of a chapel of ease called New Chapel (Y Capel
Newydd yn Mhenrhos neu yn Neuddwr), the patron of which is
Major Gore. The chapel was founded by one of the family of
Derwas, then of Penrhos, towards the close of the seventeenth century.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Penrhos was the
residence of the late John Owen, Esq. a gentleman who did great
acts of charity, not only in his neighbourhood, but at a distance
wherever his extensive property lay. It is now an appendage to
Porkington. There are several British encampments in this neigh-
bourhood.

Alberbury, called by the Welsh " Llan fi ban gel yn Nghentyn," is
parlly in the hundred of Deuddwr, in the county of Montgomery, and
partly in the hundred of Chirbury, in the county of Salop. It is a
rectory, belonging to All Souls' College, Oxford, and the members
and head of that college are the patrons. The church is in the
diocese of Hereford, and is dedicated to St. Michael. The ancient
mansion or castle of Alberbury was small, but very strong ; a square
tower and some walls vet exist. Leland says it was the castle of

J Fulk

TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES. 329

Fulk Fitzwarine, on whose father, Guarine de Metz, a noble Lorainer,
William the Conqueror had bestowed this manor. Fulk was founder
of the abbey of Alberbury, which stood on the banks of the Severn.
He founded it in the time of Henry the First, and it was a cell of the
Benedictines of Grammont in France. Being an alien priory, Henry
Chichley, Archbishop of Canterbury, begged it of Henry 'the First
towards the endowment of his new college of All Souls, to which it
has ever since belonged, together with the presentation to the vicar-
age. This religious house was also called Album Monasterium. —
Wattlesbury Castle, an old house noticed by Mr. Pennant, with a
square tower of far more ancient date, before mentioned, lies on the
Roman road from Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant. Mr. William Mytton
conjectures that the site might have been a station of a party of
Vandals, sent into Britain by the Emperor Probus, and that the word
is corrupted from Vandlesburgh, a name given to it by the Saxons,
there being a rampart of that name in Lincolnshire, derived, as it is
supposed, from the same cause. One Edric possessed it at the time
of the conquest, and Roger Corbet, son of Corbet, a noble Norman,
succeeded him. It was afterwards bestowed on a younger son of the
Corbets of Cause Castle, and was for a long time in the possession of
that family. At length it descended into the line of Gwenwynwyn,
Lord of Powys, whose descendant, Fulk Mowddwy, died in possession
of it in the second year of Henry V. Sir Hugh de Burgh succeeded,
in consequence of his marriage with Elizabeth, sister to Fulk ; and by
the marriage of Angharad, one of De Burgh's four grand-daughters,
it devolved to the Leightons, and is now the property of their de-
scendant, Sir Baldwin Leighton, Bart. A little farther is Loton, the
seat of the family of Leighton, which is of Saxon origin, and takes its
name from Leighton, a parish in the county of Salop.

A little to the east of Alberbury is Rowton, the seat of the Lysters,
a family long resident here, Prior to their possession it belonged to
the Lord Strange, ofKnockin, who possessed a castle there, which
was demolished in 1266 by Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, but was rebuilt
soon after by John Lord Strange. Near this spot is supposed to
have stood the Roman Rutunium, .but no traces of it now remain,
though the modern name preserves part of the ancient one.

Near Woollaston, half-way between Welsh Pool and Shrewsbury, is
a mound or tumulus of considerable magnitude, very perfect, and
hitherto, we believe, unnoticed by the antiquarian.

In the parish of Alberbury was born old Thomas, son of John Parr,
of Winnington, in the reign of Edward the Fourth, A. D, 1478.
When 80 years old he married his first wife Jane, and in the space of
32 years she had but two children by him, both of them short-lived,
the one living about a month, and the other only a few years. At the
age of 120 he became enamoured of Katherine Milton, whom he
married, and she had children by him. Two months before his

death

330 TOPOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

death he was brought by Thomas Earl of Arundel to Westminster;
where he slept away most of his time, and is thus characterised by an
eye witness :

From head to heel his body had all over
A quickset, thickset, nat'ral hairy cover.

Change of air and diet, better in itself but worse for him, with the
trouble of many visitants, are conceived to have accelerated his death,
which happened at Westminster, November 15th, 1632, aged one
hundred and fifty-two years.

In the year 1806, His late Most Gracious Majesty King George
the Fourth (when Prince of Wales) came to Loton Park, on a visit to
Sir Robert Leighton, from whence he walked into the Principality,
the distance of about half a mile, to an oak tree on the road side,
where he plucked a branch from the same, placed it in his hat, and
then returned; on which occasion he was greeted by an immense
number of truly-loyal Welshmen, proud to see their Prince among
them. The tree is now enclosed with a handsome railing, and called
te the Prince's Tree ;" and a brass plate is fixed thereon, with a
suitable inscription, commemorating the event.

Near this place, at the foot of the Breiddin Hills, is the chapel of
Crus;gin (Criggion), a modern brick building, situate on the banks of
the Severn.

The remaining parishes in this county are Aber-havesp, " the
mouth of the river Havesp," where it discharges itself into tho
Severn : the church is dedicated to Saint Cynog, who suffered
martyrdom about the end of the fifth century. — Trefeglwys, " the
Church Town," hath its church dedicated to Saint Michael. It is
situated on the river Trannon, about eight miles west of Newtown,
and five north of Llanidloes. — Penstrywed or Penystrywad (Street,
Strata), i. e. " the head, top, or end of the paved road," leading to
Caersws. The church is dedicated to St. Gwrgi, or Gwrci.

The following bards and other eminent persons were natives of
or residents in Montgomeryshire: — Owain Cyveiliog, 1160; Sippyn
Cyveiliog, 1400; Rhys Carno, 1480; Sion Ceri, 1520; Hugh
Arwystl, 1550; Robert Morgan, Bishop of Bangor, 1666; Rev.
Richard Williams, Vicar of Machynlleth ; Thomas Price, of Llan-
fyllin, antiquary; Sampson Lloyd, of Dolobran; Grono ap Heilyn ;
Rowland Heilyn, Sheriff of London, died 1634; Dr. Peter Heilyn,
nephew to Rowland, and an author, 1662; Davydd Llwyd ap Lle-
welyn ap Gruflfydd, poet and seer ; Rev. Dr. Davies, Head- Master of
Macclesfield Grammar School: Howel Swrdwal, an excellent bard,
Minister of Machynlleth about 1450; George Griffith, D.D. Bishop
of Bangor; Lord Herbert of Chirbury, historian; George Herbert,
his son; Sir John Pryce, Baronet, a poet; Rev. Thomas Jones,
Lecturer and Head Tutor at Trinity College, Cambridge; Mr.
William Jones, of LJangadfan, historian; Rev. John Jenkins, Vicar
of Kerry.

INDEX

INDEX TO THE HISTORICAL PART.

&BERFFRAW destroyed by the Irish, pag* 48.

Adelred, King of the West Saxons, vanquished by the Britons, 13.

Aedan ap Blegorad, having slain his competitor Conan, ia proclaimed Prince of North

Wales, 58. Is slain with his four sons in battle, 66.
Alan II. King of Little Britain, assisted Cadwalader, 8. Advised him to obey the

vision, 9.
Alfred, King, an encourager of learning, and founder of the University of Oxford, 27.

Routs the Danes, ibid. Makes them forswear the sight of English ground, 28.

He causes the laws of Dyfnwal Moelmud and Queen Marsia to be translated into

English, &c. 36.
Alfred (son of Edelred) proposed to be sent for to be king over the English, 71. Opposed

by Earl Godwyn, ib. Had his eyes put out, ib.

Anarawd, Prince of North Wales, succeeds his father Robert, 31. Dies; his issue, 38.
Anglesey wasted by the men of Dublin, 38. Ravaged by Madoc ap Meredith, Prince of

Powys, but all his men were cut off, 160.
Anlaf, King of Norway, swears never to molest England, 55.
Arthur, King of Britain — his sepulchre found in the Isle of Afalon, 187; the inscription

upon it, 188.
Arthur, eldest son of King Henry the Seventh, created Prince of Wales, and dies at

Lud!ow,285.
Athelstane, though illegitimate, the worthiest prince of the Saxon blood, 40. His victory

over the Danes, Scots, and Normans, ib. Re.iiovcs the Britons to Cornwall; dies, 41.
Auiate and all his Danes receive baptism, 41.

Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, the first that made his visitation in Wales, 189.

Bede : his education and writings, 14.

Bible: how, when, and by whom translated into Welsh, A.D. 1536, 287.

Blethyn and Rhywalhon, princes of North Wales, assist Edric against the king of

England, 84. A rebellion formed against them by Meredith and Ithel ap

Gruffydd, ib. Battle wherein Rhywalhon and Ithel were slain, ib. Blethyn

murdered by Rhys ap Owen ap Edwyn, 86.
Britain: how and when forsaken by the Roman forces, 1. Invaded by the Scots and

Picts, ib.
Britons: their sad complaints to ^Etius, thrice consul, 2. The reason of their weakness, ib.

Their message to the Saxons, 4. The Britons of Straclwyd and Cumberland settle in

North Wales, 32.

Brochwel, once Prince of Powys, a great defender of the Monks of Bangor, 20.
Bruce, William de, Lord of Brecknock, under pretence of friendship, barbarously murders

Sitsylht ap Dyfnwal, his sous, and followers, 186.

Cadelh, Prince of South Wales, dies; his issue, 37.

Cadelh ap Gruffydd takes Carmarthen, and beats the Normans and Flemings, 152.

Narrowly escapes being murdered, 156. Gone upon a pilgrimage, 157.
Cadwgan murdered by Madawc, 129.
Cadwalader, the last King of Britain of the British race, 7. Retires to Alan, King of

Little Britain, ib. Directed in a vision to go to Rome, and was there shorn a

monk, 8.
Cadwalader, with his brother Owen Gwynedd from North Wales, in conjunction with

several South Wales lords, made a horrible slaughter of the Normans and Flemings,

and drove them out of South Wales, 145, 146.
Cadwalader forced to flee from his brother Owen to Ireland, 151. Returns with Irish

forces, concludes a peace with his brother, made prisoner by the Irish, rescued by his

brother, 151. Escapes out of prison, 157. Flies to England, ib. His death and

issue, 182. Canterbury

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART.

Canterbury redeemed by the citizens from being burnt by tbe Danes for £3000, 61.
Betrayed afterwards to them, and burnt, 62.

Canute the Dane chosen king, and his cruelty to the English hostages, 63. Returns to
England, ib. The Northumbrians submit to him, ib. Besieges London, and in
routed by Edmund, 64. Combats Edmund, and agreed to divide England between
them, 65. Generously punishes the murderers of Edmund Ironside, ib. Marries
Emma, Edeldred's widow, 66. Requires a subsidy of the English, 67. Made a
pompous journey to Rome, 68. Makes the Scots do him homage, ib. Dies, and i*
succeeded by his son, Harold Harefoot, 69.

Caradoc, King of North Wales, fights and is slain by the Saxons, 18. His pedigree, ib.

Celibacy, enjoined the clergy in a synod held at Lundon, 121.

Christian faith pure in the British church, 200.

Charles, eldest son of King Charles the First, created Prince of Wales, 288.

Civil wars in Wales; and Edwal, son of Meyric, the indisputable heir, set up in North
Wales, 57.

Clare, Earl of, possessed himself of divers strongholds inCaerdigan, 162.

Clynnocfawr, an abbey in Arfon, 9. When and by whom built, 10. Endowed by
Prince Anarawd, 33.

Commotions in England, 146.

Conan : war between him and his brother Howel, 19. Dies, ibid. His pedigree, 20.

Conspiracy against William the Conqueror, by the English and Welsh, detected, and the
conspirators executed, 86.

Constable, Walter, marries Nest's daughter, and has the lordship of Brecknock, 112. A
strange passage related by him to Henry the First, concerning GrufFydh ap Rhys, ib.

Crogens used as a term of reproach by the English to the Welsh, 202. No reason for it,
ib.

Cynric, Prince Owen's son, slain, 150.

Danes began to disturb England, 18. They prevail and winter in England, 24. They
take and destroy Winchester, 25. Kill Osbright and Elba, Kings of Northumber-
land, 26. Slew Edmund, King of the Angles, ib. Fought five battles with Ethel-
dred and Alfred, ib. They won London and Reading, 28. Routed by the West
Saxons, ib. Are defeated by Alfred, and receive the Christian faith, 31. They
harass North Wales, 33. Forced to retreat from before Exeter, and spoil the sea-
coast of Wales, 35. Receive a great overthrow, ib. They grow powerful, not only
in England, but also in Ireland, 37. Thrice overthrown by the English, 38. Com.
pletely overthrown at Tottenhale, 39. Routed by King Edward, 40. Driven out
of the kingdom by King Edmund, 44. Force the English to pay the Dane-gelt, 55.
Make a terrible havoc in Wrales, and had tribute paid them, 56. Make fresh devas.
tations in Wales and England, 59. They are massacred by the English, 59. Force
the English nobility to buy their peace for £30,000, 60. They beat Wolfkettel, 61.
Slew Ethelstan and ransacked the country, 61.

Dafydh ab Owain killed his brother Howel in battle, 177. Proclaimed Prince of North
Wales, ib. Secures his brother Maelgon, reduces Anglesey, and banishes his bre-
tin en, 183. Sends a band of Welsh to accompany King Henry into Normandy, 184.
Is dispossessed by his eldest brother's son, Lhewelyn ab lorwerth, 193. Ungrateful
to Prince Lhewelyn for his liberty, 196.

Dafydh ap Llewelyn, Prince of Wales, did homage at Gloucester to the King of England,
232. Is excommunicated by the Bishop of Bangor for detaining his brother Griffith
in prison, whom he refused to deliver at the King's request, 233. Submits to the
King of England, 234. Engages the Pope on his side against the King, but he proves
false, 236. Fights the English often, with various success, 237. Dies without issue,
239.

David's, Saint, burnt by the West Saxons, 18. Destroyed by the Danes, 38. Again
destroyed by the Danes, 58. Destroyed by strangers, 89. The cathedral sacri-
legiously robbed, 92. Made subject to the See of Canterbury, 120.
Dunstan, Saint, Bishop of Canterbury j his prediction and death, 52.

Easter, the Britons and Saxons quarrel about the observation of it, 16.

Edeldred married Emma, daughter of the Duke of Normandy, and tbe reason of it, 59.

The consequence of the marriage, ib. Flics with his wife and children into Nor-

martdy, 62. Returnt, ib. Hi* death, 63.

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART.

Edgar advanced to the kingdom in his brother Edwin's room, 47. Wastes North Wales,
and agrees for a yearly tribute of three hundred wolves, ib. Regulates drinking
vessels, because of the Danes' excess, 48. Ilowed in his barge by six kings, on the
river Lee, 50.

Edgar Edeling declared king, 83. Forced into Scotland, 84. Received to King Wil-
liam's mercy, 86.

Edmund, King of England, his death, and the uncertain manner of it, 44.

Edmund Ironside slain by Edric's son, 65.

Edwal Foel and his brother Elis fight the English, and are slain, 41. Their issue, ib.

Edward sent for from Normandy, and made king, 71. The Confessor's death, 81.

Edward 1. King of England, invades Wales and prevails, 253. Insists upon Prince
Lhewelyn's submission without reserve, 259. Sets Prince Lhewelyn's head upon the
tower of London, 265. Subdues all Wales, ib. Kept his Christmas at Aberconwy,
271. In necessity would taste no wine, for the satisfaction of the soldiers, 272. Cuts
down all the woods in Wales, and builds Beaumaris Castle, 272.

Edward of Caernarvon, first Prince of Wales of the English blood, 266. Received
homage at Chester of all the freeholders of Wales, 273. Goes further into the
country for that purpose, ibid.

Edward, eldest son to King Edward II. created Prince of Wales, 274. His character and
death, ib.

Edward, son to Henry VI. created Prince of Wales, 284. Murdered, ib.

Edward, eldest son to Edward IV. created Prince of Wales, 284.

Edward IV. inclined to favour the Welsh, 284

Edward, son to Richard III. created Prince of Wales, 285.

Edward, son to Henry VIII. created Prince of Wales, 286.

Edwyn, King of England, vicious, dispossessed, and dies, 47.

Egbert, sole monarch of the Saxons, 21. Calls the country England, ib. He fights and
routs the Danes, 22.

Eineon invites the Normans into Wales, and persuades them to stay, 94.

Elfleda, a Mercian Queen, her valiant acts both against the Danes and Welsh, 39. Her
death, ibid. Left a daughter, Alfwyen, disinherited by King Edward, ib.

Ethelbald, King of Mercia, invades Wales, 14. In conjunction with Cudred, overthrows
the Britons, ib.

Ethelwulph, King of the West Saxons, paid Peter-pence to Rome, 25. Learned and
devout, ib.

Eyes of several plucked out, a barbarous custom, 144.

Flanders, a part of it drowned, prejudicial to the Welsh, 122.
Flemings settled in part of Wales, ib.

Galtio routs the Scots and Picts, 1. Builds a wall across the land, ib.

Gam, Sir David, imprisoned by Owen Glyndwr, and released 282. Revolts from Owrn,
ib. His answer in France to Henry V. concerning the French army, 283. Mortally
wounded at Agincourt, ib. Knighted and died, 284.

Gavel-kind, that custom in Wales, 19.

Geoffrey of Monmouth, made Bishop of Saint David's, 157.

Glamorgan, the winning of the lordship of out of the Welshmen's hand, and description
of the same, 95, &c.

Godwyn, Earl, rebels against King Edward, 74. Invades the land, and is reconciled to
the king, 75. Dies suddenly sitting at the king's table, 76.

Gray, Reginald, Lord of Ruthin, taken prisoner by Owain Glyndwr, and ransomed, 278.

Gruffydd ap Llewelin declared Prince of North Wales, 70. His country invaded by the
English and Danes, who were routed by him, ib. Reduced all Wales under his
subjection, ib. Routs Howel, Prince of South Wales, at Pencadair, 71. Taken
prisoner by the Irish under the command of Conan ap lago ap Edwal, and recovered
by his own men, 72. Overcomes the army of Gruffydd ap Rhydderch, and slays
him, 77, Concludes a peace with Harold, King Edward's geneial, 78. His palace
at Ruddland burnt by the English, 78.

Gruffydd, Prince, murdered by Harold's contrivance after he had reigned thirty years, 79.

Gruffydd ap Conan confirmed in the principality of Wales, 91. Refused at first an
accommodation with King Henry ; at last sues and obtains peace, 133. Caressed by

the

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART,

the king, and promises to deliver up Gruff) dd ap Rhys, 134. Dies, 147. Hi*

issue, ib.
Gruffydd, the son of Rhys ap Tudor, lays claim to South Wales, 134. Flies to North

Wales, ib. Wished with his brother Howel to withdraw into South Wales, 134.

Forced to bid open defiance to the King of England, 135. The Flemings and Welsh

lords join together to oppose him, ib. He takes Caermarthen, 136. Invited to the

government of Caerdiganshire, ib. Succeeds, 137. Wars at Aberystwith, 138.

Insidiously dispossessed of his estate, 143. Dies, 147.
Gruffydd, son to Lord Rhys, succeeded his father, 195. Plagued with his brother

Maelgon, 196. A hopeful prince j dies, 200.
Gruffydd ap Conan ap Owen Gwynedd buried in a monk's cowl j the superstition

of it, 199.
Gruffydd, Prince David's brother, endeavouring to make his escape out of the tower of

London, breaks his neck, 235. His body recovered and conveyed to Conway, and

honourably buried, 242.
Gruffydd Llwyd, knighted by King Edward the First, rebels, 274. Treats with Sir

Robert Bruce for succour against the English, ib. Overruns North Wales and the

Marches, and is taken prisoner, ib.

Gurmundus, a Norwegian, from Ireland invades Britain, 6.
Gwenwynwyn worsted by the English, 198. Refuses homage to Prince Llewelyn, 201.

At last consents to it, ib. Detained prisoner at Shrewsbury, 204 Set at liberty and

regains his country, 206. Revolts from Prince Llewelyn, and is dispossessed, 217.

Harold succeeds Canute his father in England, 69. Dies, and is succeeded by Hardi-
canute his brother, 71.

Harold's favour with the king, envied by his brother Tosty, who barbarously murdered
Harold's men at his house in Hereford, and his saying, 80. Is made king, 81.
Slain, 83.

Hasting, a Dane, invades France, 34. Lays siege to Limogis, ib. His cruelty, ib.

Henry the First: his partiality in favour of the Normans, 121. Makes his brother
Robert prisoner, and puts out his eyes, ib. Kind to Cadwgan, the father of Owen,
125. Invades Wales with three armies, 132. Overcomes the French king, 141.
Lost his children at sea, and marries, ib. Invades Wales, ib. In danger, 142.
Agrees with Meredith ap Blethyn and returns, ib. His death and successor, 145.

Henry the Second sends the Flemings into West Wales, 151. Invited to the conquest of
Wales, ib. Repulsed and in danger of his life, 160. Concludes a peace with Prince
Owen, 161. Quarrels and concludes a peace with France, 171. Invades Wales, and
brings Prince Rhys to do him homage, 172. Invades Wales again with a most
potent army, 173. Returns without any thing memorable, and in revenge puts out
the eyes of the hostages, 174. Makes a third expedition into Wales to as little
purpose, 174. Passes through Wales, receiving homage of Prince Rhys, in his way
to the conquest of Ireland, ISO. Returns through Wales, and inclined to leave it in
a peaceable condition, 182. Engaged in a civil war against his son Henry, 183.
Makes a peace with France, and his children forced to submit, 184, Dies, 189.

Henry the Third, King of England, invades Wales, and is worsted, 223- Invades Wales
again, 226. Makes John of Monmouth his general against the Welsh, but with ill
success, 228. Laments the death of the Earl of Pembroke, 229. Invades Wales,
and makes Prince David submit, 234. Invades Wales, 236. Fights with the Welsh
with no success, and invites the Irish into Anglesea, 237. Oppresses Wales, and
returns dissatisfied, 237. Wastes the borders, 246. Requires a subsidy to subdue
Wales, 247. Dies, 250.

Henry, eldest son to Henry the Fourth, created Prince of Wales, 276.

Henry the Sixth makes unmerciful laws against the Welsh, 281,

Henry Duke of York created Prince of Wales, 285.

Henry the Seventh grants the Welsh a charter of liberty* and directs a commission to
enquire into the birth and quality of his grandfather, Owen Tudor, 286.

Henry the Eighth incorporates the Welsh with the English, 286.

Henry, eldest son of King James, created Prince of Wales, 288.

Howel Dda preferred to be prince of all Wales, 42. His laws, ib. Goes to Rome to bav«
them confirmed, 43. His death and issue, 45.

Howel ap levaf expelled his uncle lago, and took the government of Wales upon him, 50.

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART.

At last agrer, 51. Kills Edwal Fychan, and the reason of it, 61. Overthrows the
Danes, rb. Invades England and is slain, 53. He is succeeded by his brother

Cadwallon, ib. ; who was quickly slain, 54.
Howeland Meredith, Llewelyn's murderers, invite the Irish Scots into South Wales, 68.

Slay Rhydderch and take the government, 69. Meredith slain by the sons of

Conan ap Sitsylht, ib.
Howel attempts the recovery of South Wales, and is overcome and slain by Prince

Griffith, near Tywyhead, 73.
Howel ap Grono driven out of Rydcors Castle by the Normans, 120. Basely betrayed to

them and murdered, 121.
Howel ap Owen Gwynedd won the castle of Gwys, 154. With his brother Conan quarrel

with their uncle Cadwalader, besiege and take the castle of Cynfael from him, 154.

Makes Cadwalader his prisoner, and possesses his land, ib. He lost all his country

to Cadel, Meredith, and Rhys ap Griffith, who put the garrison of Llanrhystyd to

the sword, 156.

Tago ap Edwal recovers his right to North Wales, 68. Slain in battle against Gruffyddap
Llewelyn, 75.

Ifor sent into Britain with an army by his father Alan, 11. Routs the Saxons, ib.
Marries Ethelburga, Kentwyn's cousin, and succeeds him in the West-Saxon king-
dom, ib. Founded Glastonbury Abbey, 12. Died at Rome, 13.

lorwerth ap Blethyn revolts from the Earl of Salop, 118 Basely used by King Henry
for it, 119. The reason of it, ib. Delivered out of prison, 126. Forbids Owen ami
Madawc taking shelter in his estate, 126. Beset and slain by Madawc and Llywarch
ap Trahaeru, 129.

Ireland molested with locusts, 36.

Ithel King of Gwent slain, -24.

John, Archdeacon of Llanbadarn, dies and is canonized, 148.

John King of England, in his way to Ireland through Wales, discharged a criminal that
murdered a priest, 204. Famished William de Bruce and Maud his aunt at
Windsor after his return, 205. The reason of his cruelty, ib. Marches with a great
army into Wales, 207. Returns without su cess, 208. Makes a second expedition,
ib. Orders Foulke Viscount Cardiff to subdue tho.»e that oppose in South Wales,
and they at last do him homage, but quickly revolt, 209. Makes a third expedition,
into Wales, and hangs the Welsh pledges, 210. Reconciles himself to Rome, 212.
Engages in a civil war with the Barons, 213. Bits, and is succeeded by his son
Henry, 218.

Joseph, Bishop of Llandaff, dies at Rome, 73.

Llewelyn ap Sytsylht makes himself Prince of Wales, 66. His good government, ib.
Slays Meyric that rebelled against him with his own hand, 67. Suppresses another
rebellion, ib. Basely slain, 68.

Llewelyn, Prince of North Wales, ta-kes David ap Owen prisoner, 196. Receives homage
of most of the Welsh lords, 201. Conquers Gwenwynwyn's country, 204. Makes
an expedition into S mth Wales, ib. Marries Joan, King John's daughter, 202.
Sues and obtains peace of the king by the means of his wife, 208. Animates the
lords of North Wales to join with him in a revolt against the king 210. Dispossesses
the English of all their holds in his country, 213. Takes Shrewsbury, though
excommunicated by the Pope, 214. Subdues Caerdigan and Caermarthen, 216.
Reconciles the lords in South Wales, ib. Subdues Powys, 217. Refuses assistance
to King John against the Dauphin, 218. Makes Reynald Bruce who had revolted
submit to him,ib. Receives the submission and allegiance of the Flemings in Dyfed*
219. Subdues the revolted Flemings again, 220. Makes his son Gruffydd submit,
221. Complained of to the King of England by Young Rhys; adjusts matters with
him, 222. Seizes the castle of William' Marshal, Earfof Pembroke, in Wales, and
occasion? a war between them, ib. Worsts the English army, pays homage to Henry
the Third, 224. Destroys the Marches, 226. Makes a descent upon England, 227.
Being joined by the Earl of Pembroke against King Henry, routs his army, 228.
Makes an incursion into the king's territories, 229. Makes peace with the king, ib.

Set*

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART.

Sets his son Gruffydd at liberty, 230. Buries his Princess Joan, ih. Forced to quit
I he siege of Ruddlan, 231. Makes the Welsh do homage to his son David, ib.
Dies, his character and issue, 232.

Llewelyn ap Gruffydd and Owen Goch his brother declared Princes of North Wales, 240.
Quarrel, and Owen with his brother David made close prisoners, 242. Recovers the
inland country of North Wales from the English, 243. Wastes Cheshire, 244. Beats
the Irish by sea, 245. Desires peace with the king but fails, 248. Kind to Sir
Roger Mortimer, ib. Makes a peace, by the Pope's mediation, with the king, 249.
Refuses to attend upon King Edward's coronation, 250, The reasons for his
refusal, ib. An accident made him pliable, 253. Severe conditions of peace im-
posed upon him, ib. Marr'es to Eleanor, Earl of Montford's daughter, at Worcester,
255. Reconciled with his brother David, and joins against the English, ib. Offers
to submit to the king conditionally, 259. Sends a letter to the Archbishop of
Canterbury, and the general answer of the Welsh to his proposals, 269. Betrayed
in Bualltand killed, 264.

London besieged by the Danes, 55.

Mahael dispossessed of his inheritance by the means of his unnatural mother Nest, and

how, 112.

Madoc ap Meredith, Prince of Powys, sticks to the English interest, 159.
Madawc reconciled to King Henry, 130. Taken prisoner by Meredith ap Bleddyn, 131.

Has his eyes pulled out by Owen, ib.

Madawc ap Owen Gwynedd sails to America, 178. Plants a colony there, ib.
Maelgon disturbs South Wales, 206. Beaten by his nephews, Rhys and Owen, ib.
March, Earl of, marries Owen Glyndwr's daughter, 280. Consented by indenture to

divide England between Owen, Percy, and himself, ib.
Maud the Empress lands in England, and is received at Arundel, 149.
Meredith ap Owen possessed ail Wales, 54. Dispossessed of North Wales, 57. And

routed by Edwal ap Meyric, their new prince, 57. Died without issue male, 58.
Meredith ap Owen made Prince of South Wales, 80. Fled from battle and perished

for want, 84.
Meredith and Rhys ap Gruffydd prevail in South Wales, 157. Meredith's death and

character, 158.

Merfyn frych is made King of Wales, 20. His death, 23.
Mcrlyn, Ambrose and Sylvester, their time, country, and prophecies, 8, 9.
Morgan H£n dies 100 years old ; his marriage, estate, and issue, 49.
Morgan ap Owen kills Robert Fitz Gilbert and his son, 145. Slain, 161.
Morgan ap Cadwgan repents of the murder of his brother Meredith, 144.
Murders committed, 144.

Newmarcb, a Norman, obtains the lordship of Brecknock, and marries Nest, daughter to

Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, 111.
mans twice decimated i

Normans twice decimated and put to death in England, 71. They waste and plunder
Dyfed 86. They seize upon the lordship of Glamorgan, 94. The names of the
adventurers, 97. They possess themselves of several lordships in Wa'es, 111.
Divers of them slain in Caerdigan, 113. Routed again by Cadwgan ap Bleddyn,
Prince of South Wales, and their castles destroyed, ib. Slaughtered divers times by
the Welsh, and forced to quit the country, 114.

Northumberland invaded by the Scots, 91.

Offa, King of Mercia, makes a ditch from sea to sea, 17. His death, 18.

Owen ap Edwyn, <a traitor to his country, 116. Made Prince of Wales by the English,
but soon lost it, 117. His death and pedigree, 120.

Owen, the son of Cadwgan, enamoured of Nest, the wife of Gerald, King Henry's
Lieutenant in Wales, 112. Steals her away, 123. Flies into Ireland, 124. Returns
and wastes the country, in conjunction with Madoc ap Riryd, 125. His men slay
an English bishop, and cause Cadwgan. his father, to be be dispossessed of his estate,
127. Forced to flee into Ireland with Madawc, 128. Returns and is reconciled to
the king, 130. Divides Madawc's estates between himself and Meredith ap Bleddyn,
131. Flees for fear of King Henry into North Wales, 132. Reconciled to the king,
133. Owen is brave, and knighted in Normandy, ib. Employed by King Henry
against Gruffydd ap Rhys, 138. Slain by Gerald, 139.

Owen

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART.

Owen Gwynedd succeeds as Prince of North Wales, 148. Greatly concerned at the
death of his son Rhun, 153. Takes and razes the castle of Mold, ib. Pulls out his
nephew Cuneddah's eyes, 157. Dies, his character and issue, 176.

Owen Cyfeilioc invades Llandinam, 171. Owen Cyfeilioc and Owen Fychan dispossess
lorwerth of his estate in Powys, 175. Cyfeilioc dies, leaving his estate to Givenwyn-
wyn his son, 196.

Owen Glyndwr, his family, education, and employment, 276. Opposed by Lord Grey of
Ruthyn without redress, takes up arms, and makes him prisoner, 278. Prevails, takes
the Earl of March prisoner, 279. Retakes Aberystwith castle, 280. Summons a
parliament at Machynlleth, 282. Secures David Gam upon suspicion of a design
he had to murder him, ib. Burnt his house, and his verse upon it, 283.

Patent of lands granted in Wales to the Earl of Portland, 267. Commons' address upon

it, ib. King's answer, 268.
Peckham, John, Archbishop of Canterbury, endeavours a reconciliation of Prince

Llewelyn and his brother with the king, 255. His remonstrance to the prince and

people, 256. Solicits the king on behalf of the Welsh, 258. Sends articles to the

Welsh, 259. Excommunicates the Prince of Wales, and his adherents, 263.
Peace in general between England and Wales, except with Prince Rhys, who was forced

to comply with the king, 161. Unjustly dealt with, 162.
Powys, Prince of, removes his seat from Pengwern to Mathraval, 17. An account of it

while a principality and a lordship, with the several divisions and possessors thereof,

whether of British or English blood, 164 to 171.

Rebellion in the North, caused by Earl Tosty's insolence, 81. Appeased, ib.

Rhydderch seizes upon South Wales, 68.

Rhydderch and Rhys, the sons of RhydJerch ap lestyn, put in their claim to South
Wales, 73.

Rhys, brother to Prince Gruffydd, taken by the English, and put to death at Bulenden, 75.

Rhys ap Owen and Rhydderch ap Caradoc jointly govern South Wales, 87. The latter
murdered, 88. A rebellion against the other, ib. Invaded also from North Wales,
flies, pursued, and slain, 89.

Rhys ap Theodor elected Prince of South Wales as lawful heir, §9. A rebellion formed
against him, flic* into Ireland, returns and defeats his enemy, 92. Suppresses
another rebellion, 93. Slain near Brecknock, in a fight against the invading
Normans and bis own rebellious subjects, 93.

Rhys ap Gruffydd, Prince of South Wales, takes Llanymddyfri Castle, 163. Subdues
Caerdigan, ib. Gives Henry the Second hostages to observe the peace made between
them, ib. Besieges Caermarthen, then forced to quit it, 164. Possesses himself of
divers lands belonging to foreigners in Wales, as did others according to his examp'e,
172. Takes Aberteifi Castle, and razes it, 175. Subdues Owen Cyfeilioc, 180.
Brings the lords of South Wales at enmity with King Henry to do him homage, 185.
Makes a great feast at Christmas at Aberteifi, where the bards of North Wales and
South Wales strive foi- the mastery, 187. Takes advantage upon King Henry's
death to enlarge his country, 189. Made prisoner by his own sons, 192. Escapes,
ib. Takes two of his sons prisoners, 194. Enlarges his conquest, and defeats the
English and Normans, ib. Dies, his character and issue, 195.

Rhys Fychan takes Llanymddyfri Castle, 206.

Rhys ap Gruffydd ap Rhys prevails in South Wales, 215. Does homage to Henry the
Third, 220. Dies, 222.

Rhys ap Meredith unfaithful to his country, 269. Knighted by King Edward, and
revolts, ib. Defeated and taken prisoner, and executed, 270.

Rhytbmarch, Archbishop of Saint David's, dies, 117.

Richard, King of England, goes to the Holy Land, 190. Taken prisoner in Austria, 191.
Dies of a wound received at Chalons in France, 198.

Richard of Bourdeaux created Prince of Wales, 276.

Robert Curthoys rebels against his father in Normandy, 91.

Robert Earl of Salop rebels against Henry the First, 117. Engages the Welsh in the
quarrel, ib. Seeks aid of Magnus, Harold's son, and fails, ib. Banished with his
brother Arnulph into Normandy, 119. He is committed to perpetual imprisonment
by King Kcnry, 121,

R r 2 Rudtric

INDEX TO HISTORICAL PART.

Roderic Molwynoc succeeded Ifor, 13. Driven by the Saxons out of the Western
countries to his inheritance in North Wales, 15. Dirs soon after, ib.

Roderie the Great, Prince of Wales, 23. Beats the Danes out of his country, 28.
Fights the English, and with his brother Gwyriad is slain, 19- His pedigree, and
division of Wales between bis three sons, ib. His imprudence herein, 30.

Saxons, their answer to the British message, 4. They first repel Ihe Scots and Tilt-. ,«
Enter into a league with the Scots, ib. Tiny encroach upon iht Briton*, 16.

vcotsand Picts invade Britain, 1.

Siward, Ear!, his saying upon his sons being slain in battle, 7o. His soldierly temper at
his death, 77.

fcouth Wales invaded twice in one year by levaf and Tago, princes of North Wales. i< .
They quarrel and th«= consequence of it, 48. Embroiled in war between Rhys ap
Gruffydd and Rhys Fychan, and the former supported by tlir Knglish, 212

Stephen, King of England, agrees with the Scots, 145. Ravages Scotland, 140. Sup.
presses insurrections at home, and rputs the Scots by his lieutenant!, ih. IVsirges
Arundel Castle in vain, 150. Takes Lincoln, is defeated and taken prisoner, ih.
Exchanged for Earl Robert, and overthrown a second time at Wilton, ih. Wins the
battle of Farendon, 153. Agrees with Henry (surnamed Shortmanlle), the Empress's
son, and dies, 158.

Steward, the family of, and their original, 76.

*?uiien, Archbishop of Saint David's, dies, 92-

Sulien, a learned man of Llanbadarn, dies, 152.

Swane, the Dane, wastes the Isle of Man, 57. Lands in North Wales, ib. Kills Edwal,
prince of the country, 58. His success in England, and esteemed the king thereof, 62.

Swane, King of Denmark, invades England and takes York, 84. Forced to fly, ib.

Trahaern Fychan strangely hanged, 19Q.

Trahaern ap Cafadoc made Prince of North Wales, 87. His country invaded from

• reland by Gruffydd ap Conan, the right heir, ib. They fight, and Trahaern with

his cousins worsted, arid all slain, 90.

Tribute paid by the Princes of Wales to the kings of England, 41.
Tudor Vaughan ap Grono, his family, would be styled Knight, and his reasons for it to

King Edward the Third, who confirmed the honour of it, 275.

Vortigera invites the Saxons into Britain, 4.
Vortiraer endeavours to repel the Saxons, 6.

Wales wasted by the Mercians, 21. By King Egbert, 21 and 23 Divided into three
provinces, 23. Invaded by the English, 44. Forcibly managed by levaf and Tago
Princes of North Wales only, 47. Afflicted by the Danes, 54 ; and by a murrain,
55. Gives hostages to pay the ancient tribute, 79. Seldom governed by the right
heir, 91. Wasted by the English as far as Anglesea, 116. Embroiled with civil
dissensions, 140. Its borders in great scarcity, 247. Annexed to the Crown of
England, 265.

Wahvey, King Arthur's nephew, his tomb found, whose body was a prodigious length, 91.

Welsh quarrel among themselves, 19. They defeat the Mercians at C'onway, and call the
battle " Dial Rhodri," 31. Disable the Danes and English that invade them, then
foil out among themselves, 52. Too late, see the folly of foreign aid, 111. Misera-
bly slaughtered, 123, 124. Being at peace from abroad, they fall to their wonted
method of destroying one another, 242. Complain to their prince of their oppression
from the English, ib. Beaten by the English, 249- Beaten in Builth, 264. Revolt
because of a heavy tax from Edward the First, 270. Beaten by the English, 271.
Take the king's carriages, 271. Routed by the Earl of Warwick, 272. Beat the
Marchers, ib ; but are at last overcome, and their leader Madoc made prisoner, 273.

Welsh minstrelg reformed, whereof were three sorts, 147

William, Duke of Normandy, claims the Crown of England, 82. Lands at Hastings, and

defeats the English, 83.
illiam the First goes with an army on pilgrimage to Saint David's, 91.

William Rufus invades the Welsh without success, 113. Killed, 117,

INDEX.

IM)KX TO THE TOPOGRAPHICAL PART.

, 14

A her, 18
Ahererch, 27
Aberdaron, 28
Abergeley, 5S
Aheryslwith, 71
Aberaeron, 88
Abbey Cwmhir, 92
A her- Ed w, 104
Aber-Llyfni, 109
A be ra von, 127
Abeidar, 138
Abergwili, 163
Aberdovey, 229
Anglesea, 247
Amlwrh, 259
Aberffraw, 261
Abertanat, 297
Alberbnry, 328
Aberbavesp, 330

Beddgelert, 12
Ban^or (Carnarvonshire), 18
Bettws y Coed, 24
Bryncroes, 28
Bettws Garmon, 28
Bodverin, 28
Brynkir, 32
Bodysgallen, 32
Bardsey Island. 43
Bryn.Ftanigle, 58
Bangor (Cardiganshire), 84
Blaenporth, 84
Beguildy, 104
Boughrood, 105
Brecknockshire, 107
Brecon, 107
BualltorBuilth, 110
Brecknock Mere, 112
Battle (Brecknockshire), 111
Blaen-Llyfni, 116
Brecknock Beacons, 118
Bridgend, 128
Barry Islands, 135
Bishopston, 138
Bach-Ynys, 171
Briddell, 188
Bosheston, 190
Burton (Pembrokeshire),l9
Basingwerke Abbey, 204
Bangor-Iscoed, 208
Bodfary, 209
Bala, 218, 246

Barmoujh, 228
Beaumaris, 250
Bodedeyrn, 225
Bodorgan, 263
Bodowen, 264
Buttington. 309
Berriew, 316

Beltws (Montgomeryshire),
317

Caernarvonshire, I

Caernarvon, 1

Conway, 14

Capel Curig, 22

Clynogvawr, 25

Carn Madryn, 27

Criccielh, 27

Caer Hen, or Caer Rhun, 29

Cyffin, 32

Capel Voelas,57

Cerrig y Druidion, 58

Chirk, 58

Chirk Castle, 53

Castejl Dinas Bran, 64

Cardiganshire, 69

Cardigan, 69

Cwm Ystwith, 80

Capel Cynin, 85

Cwmhir (Abbey), 92

Caer Caradoc (Radnorshire)

101

Cefn-LIys Castle, 102
Cwm y-dau-ddwr, 104
Clyro, 105
Crick Howel, 114
Cathedine, 116
Cantref (Brecon), 118
Cowbridge, 132
Caerdiff, 133 ;
Caerphilli, 136
Caermarthenshire, 160
Carreg-Cenin Castle, 162
Caermarthen,163
Cydweli, 167
Cil-y maenllwyd, 171
Cynwyl, 171
Carew Castle, 179
Cast le Martin, 188
Castle Morrice, 190, 192
Camrhos, 190
Castle Beilh, 190
Clydau, 190
Caergwrle, 197

Cerrig y Craig, 199
"aerwys, 206
'wm (Flintshire), 209
Cilcen, 210
Corwen, 214
Cynwyd, 215
Cymmer Abbey, 220
Cader Idris,222
Corsygedol, 228
Cantre'r Gwaelod, 230
Crai^ y Deryn, 230
Caergai, 238
Caergybi, 255
Carregllwy.l, 267
Carregiiofa Castle, 296
CastelUCaereinion, 297
Cemmaes, 302
Cefn Digol, 313
Chirbury, 315
Churchstoke, 316
Carno, 324
Criggion, 330

Dolbadarn Castle, 5
Diganwy, 16
Dwygyfylchi, 16, 27
Dol wyddelan Castle, 23
Dolbenmaen, 31
Denbighshire, 45
Denbigh, 47
Devil's Bridge, 78
Diserth (Radnorshire), 105
Defynoc, 116
Dinas Castle, 116
Donat's Castle, 132
Dyn'rafon House, 132
Dre Rhudd, 158
Dynevor Castle, 161
Disserth, 199
Downing, 200
Dolgellau, 219
Dolymelynllyn, 221
Dinasmawddwy, 223
Dolforwyn Castle, 317
Darowain, 323

Eglwys Rhos, 32
Erddig, 53
Eliseg (pillar of), 64
Eglwys Newydd, 79
Ewenny, 131
Eglwys Ilan,l40
Eglwys Cymmyn, 170

Edwiusford,

INDEX TO TOPOGRAPHICAL TART.

Kdwinsford, 175
Eulo Castle, 208

Ferwick, 89
Felindre, 109
Faenor (Brecoi)), 120
Flemingston, 140
Fishguard, 183
Flintshire, 193
Flint, 193
Ffestiniog,224
Forden, 312

Gwydir, 24
Gloddaeth,32
Glynn Llivon, 41
Gwytherin, 57
Giler, 58
Gresford, 61
Gwersyllt (Upper), 62
Glasgrtig, 75
Glascwm, 105
Glasbury, 109
Glamorganshire, 124
Gelli Gaer, 141
Glyn-Abbey, 171
Gwyr, 183

Golden Grove (Flint), 211
Gwyddelwern, 239
Glanach,274
Garthbeibio, 300
Gui'sfield,310

Havodunnos, 58

Holt, 60

Henllan (Denbighshire), 65

Hen Fynyw, 85

Henllan (Cardigan), 85

Hay, 109

Haroldston (East), 191

Haroldston (West), 191

Haverfordwest, 181

Hope, 197

Holywell,202

Hawarden, 207

Halkin,209

Hanmer, 210

Harlech, 226

Holyhead, 255

Hirnant, 325

Johnston, 191

Knighton, 101
Kinnerton (Radnor), 103
Kenfig, 139
Kilgerran, 186
Kerry, 319

Llanberis, 4
Llandygau, 22

•lanhaiarn, 25
Vanllechid,27
Janfihangel-y-Pennant, 32
Jandegai, 33
^lanfair-Fechan, 36
-avan Sands, 37
Jangelynin, 37
Jangystennyn, 37
Jandrillo, 37

lanbedr y Cennin, 37
Janrhychwyn, 37
Jandegwnning, 38
~ langwynodyl, 38

Ian Engan, 38
Janbedrog, 39
LJangian, 39
Jangybi, 39

Llanarmon (Carnarvon), 39
Llanystyndwy, 40
~.lanelhaiarn, 40
Llanllyfni, 40
Llandwrog, 41
Llanwnda, 42
Llanrhaiadr yn Cynmeirch,'

50

Llanarmon yn Yale, 51
Llandegla (Denbigh), 51
Llanrwst, 56
Llangernyw, 58
Llanrhaiadr yn] Mochnant

59

Llangollen, 62
Llangwm Dinmael, 65
Llanddoged, 66
Llanelian, 66
Llanddulas, 66
Llanfair-Talhaiarn, $6
Llansannan, 66 r •'
Llangynhafal, 67
Llandyrnog, 67
Uansilin, 67
Llansanfraid (Cardigan), 71

Llanrhystyd, 71

Llanbadarnfawr, 74

Llanfihangel Genau'r Glyn
76

Lampeter College, 80

Llanddewi-brefi, 81

Llanbedr Pont Stephen, 82

Llanwnwen, 83

Llandysilio Gogo, 83

Llanarth, 85

Llanbadarn Odwyn, 85

Llanddygwydd, 86

Llandyssil, 86

Llanfair Trelygon, 86

Llanfihangel LlethyrTroe
86

Llan Gynfelin, 86

Llanio, 87

Llanwenog, 88

Jan y Gwyryddin, 88
Llanddewi Ystrad Ennau,96
Jandrindod Wells, 97
Jandegla (Radnor), 98
Janvihangel Nant Melyn,

98

Jananno (Radnorshire), 102
Jansaintfred (Radnor), 104
Jandeilo Graban, 105
Jandeilo Talybont, 105,141
Jan ba darn Fynydd, 105
Janbister, 105
Llanelwydd, 106
Llanfihangel-rhyd-Ithon,106
Llanwrtyd, 112
Llyn Savathan, 1 12
Llansaintfred (Brecon), 113
Llangattoc, 115
Llan aml-Llech, 115
Llangors, 116
Llanfilo, 116
Llanelly, 116
Llanfrynach, 117
Llangammarch, 117
Llanynys (Brecon), 117
Llanspyddyd, 117
Llanafan fechan, 118
Llanddety, 118
Llanddewi (Brecon), 118
Llanfeugan, 120
Uanafan-fawr, 121
Llanfihangel Cwm DA, 122
Llangynydr, 123
Llychwyr, 128
Llantrissent (Glamorg.), 129
Llangarfan, 133 x

Llandaff, 135
Llantryddyd,138
Llandoch, 141
Llandyfodwy, 141
Llanedeyrn,142
Llanganna, 142

Llangefelach, 143

Llangenydd, 143

Llanharan, 143

Llanilltwrn, 143

Llanilltydfawr, 143

Llanisan, 148

Llanmaes, 148

Llanrhidian, 149

Llansamled, 149

Loughor, 149

Llysfaen, 150

Lalyston, 159

Llan-Vadog, 159

Llandovery, 160

Llangadog, 160

Llandilo Vawr, 161

Llacharn, 166

Llantesphan, 166

Llan Arthne, 170

Llanfihangcl-ar.ararth,

INDEX TO TOPOGRAPHICAL PART.

Llrnfihangel-ar-ararth, 170
Llangyndeyrn, 170
Llangynnog, 170
Llanddarog, 172
Llandyfaelog, 172
Llandyfeisarit, 172
Llanegwad, 172
Llanelly, 173
Llanfair-y-Bryn, 173
Llanfihangel Aber Bythych,

173
Llanfihangel Rhos y-Cern,

173

Llangathan, 173
Llanllwny, 174
Llansadwrn, 174
Llansadwrnon, 174
Llansawyl, 174
Llan-y-Crwys, 175
Llan Newydd, 176
Lamphey, 179
Llandcilo, 191
Llanhauaden, 191
Llanychllwydog, 191
Llanpedrog, 192
Llanwnda, 192
Llanasa, 210
Llanddervel, 216

Llanfor, 216

Llanvair (Merioneth), 218

Llanilltyd (Merioneth), 219

Llantecwyn,226

Llanfachreth, 235

Llangelynin, 236

Llanfendigaid, 237

Llanuwchllyn, 238

Llanaelhaiarn, 239

Llandanwg, 239

Llanaber, 240

Llanbedr, 240

LIanddwywen,240, 264

Llanfihangel y Pennant, 24

Llangower, 243

Llanycil, 244

Llandrillo, 244

Llangar, 244

Llansaintffraid, 244

Llanymowddwy, 245

Llanfaes Abbey, 253

Lledwigan, 252

Llanedwin, 254

Llanidan, 254

Llanyngenedl, 255,266

Llanercbymedd, 259

Llanelian (Anglesey), 261

Llangadwaladr, 263

Llanedwen, 264

Llanallgov, 264

Llaneigrad, 264, 266
Llanbabo, 264
Llandyvrydog, 265

Llandysilio (Anglesey), 265

Myddfai, 175

Llanvaelog, 266

Milford Haven, 179

.lanfaethlu, 266

Maen Clochog, 189

-lanvair in Mathavarn-

Maen-er-Byrr, 189

eithaf, 267

Merthyr (Pembroke), 189

Janvair-pwll-gwyn-gyll,

Morlas, 191

267

Mold, 194

Janvair-yn-Nghornwy, 207

Vlostyn Hall, 201

Janvechell,268

Merionethshire, 214

Jan-flewyn, 268

tfawddwy, banditti of, [223

Llanvihangel-Tre'r-Bardd,

Mawddwy, lordship of, 224

268

Waentwrog, 226

Janvihangel-Tyn-Sylwy,

VIontgomeryshire, 276

268

Mediolanum, 282

Janvihangel-yn-Nhywyn,

Mathrafal, 282

269

Meivod, 289

Jangefni, 269

Mallwyd, 300

Uan-Geinwen, 270

Machynlleth, 303

Llan-Gristiolus, 270

Montgomery, 313

Llangwyvan, 271

Mochtref, 321

Llanidan, 271

Manavon, 327

Llaniestyn, 272

Llansadwrn, 273

Nevyn, 24

Llantrisaint, 273

Nant-y-Gwrtheryn, 25

Llangynog, 288

Noyaddarth, 85

Llanfyllin, 288

New Radnor, 99

Llanymyneich, 293

Norton (Radnorshire), 103

Llanfair-Caereinion, 297

Nantwyllt, 104

Llanerful, 297

Nantmel, 106

Llangadvan, 299

Neath, 127

Llanwrin, 302

Neath Abbey, 127

Llanllugan, 304

Newton Nottage, 129

Llandyssil, 317

Newcastle Kmlyn, 167

Llanmerewig, 317

Newchurch, 176

Llanllwchaiarn, 318

Narbertli, 181

Llandinam, 322

Newport (Pembroke), 185

Llanwnog, 322

Nevern, 185

Llanidloes, 322

Nolton, 192

Llangurig, 322

Northop, 194

Llanbrynmair, 322

Newmarket (Flintshire), 199

Llamvddin, 324

Nannerch, 211

Llanvihangel-yn Gwynva,

Nannau, 221, 231

326

Nannau Oak, 232

Llanwyddelan, 326

Newborough, 262

Llanvechan, 327

Nant-y-Criba, 312

Llansantffraid, 327

New town, 318

Llandysilio, 328

Llandrinio, 328

Old Radnor, 103

Loton, 329

Oystermouth, 126

Ogmore Castle, 128

Menai Bridge, 20

Oxwich Castle, 155

Mylljeyrn, 42

Overton, 212

Moel Fainina, 67

Millfield, 83

Penmaenmawr, 17

Maud's Castle, 104

Pwllheli, 26

Maes Mynys, 119

Penrhyn Castle, 33

Morris Town, 126

Pistyll, 42

Merthyr Tydvil, 130

Penmorva, 42

Morelay Castle, 133

Penmachno, 43

Margam, 151

Pistill Rhaiadr, 60

Marychurch, 155

Penbryn (Cardiganshire), 76

Plinliinmun,

INDEX TO TOPOGRAPHICAL PART.

Plinlimmon, 88

Ruthin, 50

The Skerries, 275

Penybont (Radnorshire), 96

Ruabon, 54

Presteign, 100

Radnorshire, 91

Trevrhiw, 24

Pain's Cattle, 103

Rhayad^r, 91 Trefgaron, 81

Patrishow, 119

Rhos-Fferreg, 120

Trer-Ilar, 88

Penderin, 120

Reynoldslon, 157

Tremaen, 88

Pencelli Castle, 121

Rhos-Sili, 158 Troed-yr-Anr, 88

Pen rice Castle, 126

Rhoath, 158

Trrcaslle, 113

Pontyprvdd, 129

Rhydodyn, 175

TreVtwr, 115

Penarth,"l56

Ramsey Island, 190

Trallong (Brecon), 117

Penmarc, 156

Rhos-Market, 192

The Van (Brecon), 118

Pyle, 157

Rudbaxton, 192

Tythegston, 158

Picton, Sir Thomas (monu-

Ruddlan, 198

Trelech, 169

ment to), 165

Rhiwedog, 217

Tal-y-Llvchau, 170

Penboyr, 176

Rhiwgoch,235

Tenby, 180

Penbre, 176

R hug, 244

Tref Asser, 192

Pencader, 176

Rhos-vair, 262

Ta lac re, 211

Pembrokeshire, 177

Rh6s-colyn, 274

Threap wood, 212

Pembroke, 177

Rhiwsaeson, 323

Trt-mei rch ion, 212

Pille, 18-2

Row ton, 329

Treuddyn,2l3

Picton Castle, 182

Towyn, 229

Penally, 189

Snowdon, 5

Travvsfynydd, 235

Penbedw, 196

Snowdon Forest, 7

Tal-y llyri( Merioneth), 242

PlasTeg,197

Strata Florida Abbey, 77

Tre-Garnedd, 2f>9

Pont y Glyn,2l5

Silian, 88

Tregynon, 327

Pont Aberglasllyn, 225

Swansea, 124

Trefeglwys, 330

Pennal, 237

Sully Islands, 135

Penmon, 253

St. Andrew's, 138

Vortigern's Valley, 25

Plasgwyn, 254

St. Bride's Major, 138

Valle Crucis Abbey, 63

Penmynydd, 254

St. Pagan's, 140

Parys Mine, 260

St. Nicholas', 155

Whitchurch (Denbigh), 49

Porthaml, 272

Sully, 158

Wrexham, 51

Penrhos Llugwy, 273

St. Clare, 165

Wynnstay, 54

Pentraeth, 273

St. Ishmael's, 171, 191

Wyston, 183

Priestholm, 274

Stanton, 182

Wai wyn's Castle, 192

Pentre-Heilin, 296

St. Dogmael's, 186,190

Whiteford, 200 v

Penegos, 302

St. David's, 186

Welsh Pool, 305

Powis Caslle, 306

St. Bride's, 190

Woollaston, 329

Pennant-Melangell, 325

St. Petrox, 192

Penstrywad, 330

Slebech, 192

Ysbytty leuan, 57

St. Asaph, 205

Y'stradmeirig, 80

Rhavadr-y-Wenol,23

South Stack Light House,

Ystradowain, 158

Rhiw, 43

257

Ystrad Marchell, 308,

EDDOWES PRINTER, SHREWSBURY.

'"CANADA

Caradog

The history of Wales

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